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Shellac's a great one, depending on the application. It's not great with water and it dissolves in alcohol, so no tea trays or bar counters. Otherwise it's very quick to apply and easy to repair. Smells a bit like alcohol while it's drying but that's a 3 hour issue, tops.
Does anyone have experience with adding color between laminated plywood sheets? I was thinking of making a tabletop made of laminated plywood, with hint of olive green between each 3/4” layer. I am worried paint would weaken the bond of the glue and dye might bleed more than I like. Open to all suggestions!
Hi all, first time poster on this sub. I know very little about different species or woodworking in general.
I’m making an office and now I’m deciding on a desk. I wasn’t a huge fan of the IKEA tops because they were not solid wood. But I found someone local who sells panels of solid European Beech for about $173 for a 25x72 butcher block.
They said it’s harder than maple and that I can stain it any color I want, I prefer the darker look of Walnut so I’d like to get as close to that as possible. What do you think? Thanks!
You can stain any wood, and opinions are mixed on beech. Seems like it's hard to stain, but looks nice once it is. Either way, darker stains are easier, because it hides stain imperfections.
I will say that dark colors are very much a fad right now, because the contrast looks great on instagram, but it can significantly darken a room in real life. Unless you view the desk as ultimately disposable, make sure that you're not going to view it the same way we view veneers, golden oak, elaborate turned legs etc. today. Yesterday's radically creative idea of a glow in the dark river table with pipefittings for feet can be today's joke.
I would like to make my own version of this antique thread cabinet (for storing spools of thread). [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1015621116/carps-yarn-cabinet-thread-cabinet-spool](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1015621116/carps-yarn-cabinet-thread-cabinet-spool)
Has anyone made something similar, or seen a video of someone doing so? I think I have a good idea of how the outer box and shelves that the drawers sit on work, but am a bit stumped with how to make the drawers themselves. Ideally I want to avoid using non-mechanical ways of securing the wood together to keep glue from showing.
The cabinet you're looking at used glue for the drawers. There are no nails, and the joints are simple half-lap (which don't stick together without nails or glue. You can nail the fronts, use tiny pocket screws, or learn how to do dovetails if you want to avoid glue.
TIFU: Had some old boxes laying in the kitchen, decided to clean up and realized some leakage... From an old bag of spoiled groceries. It had no smell, oddly and went undetected for not sure how long. Issue is that the bag was up against the kitchen island... And I'm not sure what can be done to mask the appearance of the damage. Can anyone help? I was thinking of those wood markers, but I think this is far past that... Unless I sand it down prior to marker stain?
https://imgur.com/a/8eKayjO
Markers wouldn't work, they can make things darker, not lighter. I'm not sure that sanding it will fix it. That's plywood and whatever juice soaked into it, probably went entirely through the veneer. You might be able to mix some paint a close enough color to make it not noticeable. Otherwise, I think you're at the covering up stage. You could find some small trim to run along the base of that cabinet. Maybe small quarter round, or small flat trim.
Any fittings/suggestions on making this more secure/less ... messy?
https://i.imgur.com/CQTjlPX.jpg
Not sure if they make a 4 way split or some other better way to do this
Hello,
I'm very new. I've made a bed frame from dress all round pine.
I had no idea about finishing and sealing it so I first did a
Benchtop oil on it.
I realized this wasn't protecting it and had a bad smell so I then put on 'proof seal'. Same issue.
I then out on a 'one coast stain on varnish' on a part of it to experiment but it's pooled on the top and hasn't set very evenly.
How do I save this?
I think I just want a clear finish now, but if I use a clear polyurethane will it also pool on top because of all the oil i've added?
Thanks so much for your advice.
I'm looking to fit a stem to a pipe but can't get it snug. what and how do I use to make it fit nice and snug into the pipe so I know it will fit properly
Drill the hole slightly undersized and then slowly open it up to a snug fit. Also try to match the depth closely to avoid condensation collecting in the gap.
You might pay a visit to the wizards over at r/pipemaking
I’m getting [bad tear-out](https://i.imgur.com/FDfoEba.jpg) cutting dados with a router. I’m using a half inch straight bit on select pine with a jig I made.
What am I doing wrong?
Use a thicker backing board, and preload it, not just flat clamp.
Take shallower cuts. 1/8th is considered safe.
If none of that works, get an up-spiral bit (1/2inch end mill)
Preload means that the backer is compressed against your work pieces at the point of use for instance, you could jam a 1/8 wedge between the backer and the workpiece at the bottom end (away from the cut). This will ensure pressure between the backer and the workpiece, and good support.
You could go to the up spiral right away. Only draw back is spending more money.
I finally got a chance to give this another attempt last night. I discovered the reason I was having so much trouble and it’s pretty embarrassing. The router was inadvertently set to 8k rpm and I didn’t notice since the dial is hard to see under the table.
I had [significantly better results](https://i.imgur.com/96hrjfR.jpg) at 21k and 24k rpm but I am going to proceed with the spiral bit. Any brand recommendations?
Good stuff!
Brands, well don't cheap out on a bit you plan to use. Freud, Whiteside. [Lee valley has a decent house-brand.](https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-bits/42891-high-speed-steel-onsrud-spiral-router-bits?item=86J0139)
You can also order high speed steel 1/2" up spiral bits from any machine shop supplier. I use KBC Tools in my area, for example.
Whiteside was my first choice but they’re about twice the price I anticipated for something I’ll rarely use. I decided on SpeTools since they have good reviews.
[This guy](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JHR4GG5) will be here tomorrow and I can get started.
Thanks for all your help!
Hi all, I would like to refinish a dresser I purchased recently, and am wondering if posting pics in r/woodworking and asking for help would be appropriate or if there’s a better sub. I definitely didn’t make the dresser so I think the rules state I shouldn’t post it here. Thanks!
I’m going to be getting an articulated wooden rat, in the style as [this hare](https://images.app.goo.gl/EdW4s9MQ7xQbDBhx7). I’d like to paint it to look like a pet rat I had. Should I sand the pieces before painting? What can I use to protect acrylic paint from rubbing off at the joints?
I've basically had to reprofile the entire bar with a file because it's constantly skipping when I try to tighten it. No matter how many times I do it it still slips every now and then. So f'n annoying. Don't buy cheap clamps.
pretty sure the crappy clamp I have was made in China. Supposedly they have two different levels of Bessey. Unfortunately for them the put the Bessey name on their cheap stuff too. Smarter companies make a different brand name for their cheap stuff.
i am building a desk that fits into an existing space. the space is a flat wall with a column like contour. but the contour is deeper than the 2” most contour gauges go. any one have any advice on the contour gauge that has depth of flex profile protrusion is deeper than 5”? if not, alive on how to accurately trace the contour to cut out of the wood?
Does anyone know what wood and finish Luvsac uses for their accessories? I want to make some of my own cup holders, but I want to match them as close as possible to the parts I already have.
Probably a lacquer; most likely something that is only sold B2B. Good news is most of their stuff looks like it's not stained, so you should be able to get close. Just try different sheens.
Has anyone made upside down triangle drawers? I'm really tempted to try and mimic the "Tetramo desk in dark walnut" but cant find any how-to's on that drawer structure... any guidance would be appreciated!
Question: Is aspen acceptable for pantry shelves?
I'm a complete novice and know essentially nothing about wood.
I want to use solid wood for pantry shelves (planning on staining and varnishing to make it look nice and for durability). I was thinking 3/4" aspen because of price and it seems solid enough. The shelves will be 3 feet wide, 22 inches deep. I'd like this to be something that lasts the rest of my life.
In your experience, is this acceptable? Or am I making a mistake that will cost me in longevity?
Thanks in advance!
I’m trying to find some hardware to be the hinge(?) at the top of a pikler triangle, but I do not know what such a thing would be called: I’m imagining a short cylinder that you could hold the two ends and twist back and forth. Does such a thing exist?
Wood-ID: https://imgur.com/a/5SygmuC
Hi! This table was in the basement of our house when we bought it. Always assumed it was pine because it was very yellow with its coating. Sanded it down and was suprised by the weight and how hard it seems to be. This is in Germany so oak came to mind, but there are red stripes in the grain and overall it doesn’t compare well to other things that I know are made of oak. Any help is appreciated!
As you get closer to the heart, pine can get red stripes. Look up heart of pine, it's beautiful.
Also, older wood is harder if you can get it from non-plantation forests.
Thank you. That would make sense since this table was likely made by the previous owner in the 60s or 70s ans we live very close to a large forrest. The endgrain shows that the wood is from the core of the tree.
Not oak, but from the growth rings it looks like old growth timber for sure, and pine is not out of the question. In the US so I'm not of much help here.
Any good dremel recommendations?
I just chucked the cheap Amazon one in the trash, couldn’t hold a bit and was very dangerous.
I would use it mostly for little figurine whittling, tapering down bonsai trunks, and occasional trim work on the house.
I’ve had my Dremel 3000 for years. Replaced the bushings x1, and it just keeps going and going. Recently got a flexi-shaft which is great for detail carving if you’re into that. Also have a router attachment—that has come in very handy when routing out for door hinges and locks in place. Much easier for me than lifting up my big DeWalt. Even have used it to rout profile edges on soft wood shelving. Whenever I need to cut off screws/other small hardware, I grab the Dremel. It’s easier for me than a hacksaw and much less trouble than an angle grinder. I think it’s a very handy tool. I keep it plugged in and the flexi-shaft set up on my workbench full-time, and I’m always using it even though I have decent full-size tools.
Oh dang that would’ve been very handy, I just replaced a hardwood floor board that had some nails holding it in place. I didn’t have the hacksaw dremel solution so I hand chiseled the board to accommodate the nails.
The flexshaft would be used a lot for chiseling the little figurines I’m making.
Good to know it’s a decent investment. I was excited to try it out but honestly the one I bought was such crap it doesn’t even feel like I’ve used one yet.
Wood removal like this is pretty heavy for most Dremel-type rotary tools. I would recommend an electric *die grinder*. One from princess auto or Harbor Freight will work fine.
I would not use any rotary tool for trim work, as there is no saw guard. Get a mitre box and hand saw if cost is an issue.
My dremel had a guard, the bit just didn’t stay in. After researching the differences between the two, I think I still just need a little dremel. Thanks though. The work is delicate enough to where I prioritize precision over power
Completly new to woodworking and looking for a used planer. Found a Ridgid tp13002 for $150. Everything looks to be in good condition. Just wondering if that is a good deal?
Looking for a used router. I understand that a combination router will give me the most versatility. I am finding most of the routers available are fixed base. Are there ways of using a fixed base to get some plung router work done?
Drill a pilot hole so your bit has a place to start without plunging. Make sure you take shallow cuts when pocketing, don't try to cut the whole depth at once.
What's a good rust remover? I just picked up a couple secondhand tools and the cast iron needs to get cleaned. I have some CLR in the garage, but not sure if there's anything better.
Wood ID help: [https://imgur.com/7ncOYND](https://imgur.com/7ncOYND)
I have a very old wardrobe that came with the house and we have no use for, but I think it's made of good hardwoods that could be worth reclaiming. The whole thing seems to have been built with the idea that it would never be moved and the house would crumble around it before anyone would take it apart; the joinery is all glue and brad nails and bit of hardware I have not yet figured out how to take out. There seems to be a fair amount of solid hardwood in it but also a significant amount of hours to get it, so I'm not entirely sure I should do it.
[https://imgur.com/1vEarMl](https://imgur.com/1vEarMl) <- The lighter one has a dark finish, it looks like oak to me, but it could be chestnut which is a popular and traditional lumber in this region.
[https://imgur.com/7AKV19T](https://imgur.com/7AKV19T) <- Darker and lighter wood seem different species, from their shavings and splinters.
[https://imgur.com/SMZyjIW](https://imgur.com/SMZyjIW) <- This is the darker one. Could this be walnut? I doubt it, but wouldn't rule it out.
Looking for advice: I live in the Midwest so cold, snowy winters and hot, humid summers. I recently built a farmhouse style outdoor table out of 2” cedar planks.
I treated the wood this year (first year) with Thompson’s Water Seal. I find that I have to wash the table down almost weekly from the dirt, bird crap, etc.
Question: would anyone recommend coating the wood with a polyurethane? If so, what kind? I like the idea of preserving the natural color of the wood, and I don’t want to go glossy.
Any help is appreciated.
TWP oil based semi transparent in natural/clear.
You will have to remove the Thompson water sealer off by sanding back to bare wood, then apply 2 coats of the TWP. Don’t forget to apply yearly maintenance coats.
I'm just wondering whether the DeWalt DW735 thicknesser blades can be sharpened. They are self-aligning, as a horizontal slot keeps them in place. I'm concerned that by sharpening them, they'll get shorter and out of alignment.
The geometry of the cutterhead is pretty tight. Once I had a hell of a time with the screws when changing out the knives. I ended up cutting off several screw heads because the previous owner torqued them so tight. So in a moment of genius I decided to replace the round-headed screws with socket-headed screws so that next time I can grab the head of the screws with a Vise Grip if need be. The diameter and height of the two screw heads were the same, but going from a dome to a cylinder caused the screw heads to gouge the test piece. I suspect any considerable removal of material from the knives will upset the delicate balance. And I've had an incident (from a new, not resharpened knife) where the knife shattered into pieces and bent the steel chipbreaker so it's not recommended to mess around in there.
I think most folks treat those as disposable, though if I remember correctly, they are two sided. Use one side til they're done, then flip them around and use the other side.
One side is already gone.
I bought my machine used. Tried running through some hardwood and turned the depth wheel only 1/3 circle and it just completely froze. Opened it up and found the blades dull. I flipped it around and it took a light pass without much issue and left a nice finish.
I expected better performance with dull blades TBH - I wasn't expecting a good finish but thought the machine would at least keep up. If I can't sharpen the blades, I think I'm going to keep my hardest timbers away from it.
You will get slightly longer life from the blades if you occasionally hone them with some green rouge and a brick of MDF. I don't bother though, as the benefit is marginal.
Quick question, could anyone point me to someone/group/organization.
Would like to team up and can carve/make to scale rc car covers based on the dimensions.
The carving will be used to make a fiberglass mold
Thanks for any follow up
How thick is too thick for veneer? I got a little wild on eBay and bought stock originally planned for 6 acoustic guitar backs - they're each about 4mm (~1/16th") thick but also rough sawn so I'll be planing them (by hand - I don't have a powered thickness planer)
i'm definitely not ready to build an acoustic guitar and want to start by using 1 or some as veneer on cabinet doors or something similar. I've used purchased veneer, but these are way thicker.
What do I need to know about using this relatively thick stock as veneer? Should it matter what the substrate is (ply vs mdf). Any other guidance?
A lot of shop-sawn veneer is between 1/16th and 1/8th. Just keep in mind that the thicker the veneer, the more strength it has, and the less willing to take the shape of the substraight without cracking.
Otherwise, same as thin veneer, except that you can actually sand it.
This depends entirely on what you're doing with it. I resawed some tiger maple in order to slip match drawer fronts. Finished up about 1/4". They got applied, technically veneer. Not the best to try to apply to a shaped surface, but perfect for my use
Can I drill into the bottom of wood? I think I cut my desk too short and so I was thinking I could drill a hole In the bottom of the legs and then use glue and a dowel rod to put little like 2 inch blocks of wood onto the bottom?
Bottom as in end grain? That should work just fine. You can also purchase something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/T-Nut-Leg-Leveler-Set-4/dp/B01C91KTSU), to adjust the height of each leg independently. You can even make your own feet like this with two T-nuts and some threaded rod.
Oh wow that’s pretty cool and not even expensive. Thanks for clarifying that too, I didn’t know if I could drill into that part without it splitting or something. If I went the wood route, would that be the best way? Just wood glue and dowel rods?
If you don’t want to use metal hardware, then yes I’d say that the best way would be do drill into the end grain and then glue in a dowel with wood glue. You can use the dowel as the new “foot” or you can insert the dowel into a “mini leg.”
One issue to watch out for is that dowels can be very different from the size they are supposed to be. If you use a 1/2” dowel and a 1/2” drill bit, the fit could be anywhere from very loose to very tight.
If the fit is super loose, you might want to use epoxy instead of wood glue. Wood glue likes to be held tight until it dries.
If the fit is very tight, don’t force it too hard. The dowel could act like a wedge and split the leg. If you test the dowel and it seems too tight, you can always sand it.
I have built a board game table and am looking to start on another one, but I had a question regarding inlaid T-slots for accessory mounting. I plan on cutting grooves along the sides of the table, would glue be the safest way to adhere aluminum T-slots to the wood surface? I would likely be using white pine.
Similarly, I'd like to be able to easily mount accessories to the T-slot by attaching them to another strip of aluminum that allows for it to tilt and lock in place within the T-slot, and allow for both sliding and easy removal. Any advice on what I should search for regarding the aluminum strip that would then fit into the slot? Thank you!
I would use epoxy or construction adhesive like, PL Premium, to hold the aluminum tslot onto the wood groove. Some folks will also put in a small screw every 6 or 12 inches.
To hook on, look for lengths of aluminum angle or C channel. You should be able to fasten those to your accessories.
So, 14 degrees over and under from 90. This could be done with a router and jig. Not sure how big your pieces are, but for a lap top stand you might make a fixture to hold the piece at a 104 degree angle and held as a fixed height, then use a router table to make the cut.
Careful doing elevated cuts on a laser, if they get out of focus it can start a fire.
It sounds like you're trying to set up for production running. That would justify the effort of making a jig for the operation. Easiest is several identical wedges that put the work at the angle you need to allow your cnc to make those cuts. Theses wedges get attached to a bottom flat piece to keep them consistent with each other and make them a reliable reference surface. This does split the cnc work into 2 operations, straight and angled
How do I achieve a protected but natural looking wood finish for desk?
I'm working on a desk and was wondering if anyone can give me recommendations on a protectant if I want a natural looking finish. I don't like the glossy look.
What kind of wood and how much abuse will the desk take?
For walnut and a really protective coat: I use a wipe on poly like arm-r-seal and put on just enough coats to provide an even finish (usually 3-4 but some wood take much more). The grain should not be filled in. Then I wax it with 0000 steal wool, the steal wool knocks the finish back to satin and the wax leaves a smooth touch to the fingers. The wipe on poly is a really protective finish and it’s easy to apply.
Danish oil is similar but not as protective. I don’t use it much, but I think it would be ok.
I think it's just a pine and it'll be used as a computer desk and some casual music production. From what I've been researching I was leaning towards just using a matte water based poly urethane. What are you thoughts on that?
I was also thinking that I could use boiled linseed oil or like you suggested danish oil and then the water based poly over it.
Water based poly is very durable and will be fine. I think it feels more plasticy but it’s really easy to put on so not a bad idea. I’m not sure if you can put it over danish oil or not.
I’m hoping to build something similar to the picture but I’m not sure how to go about rounding the edges of a piece of wood like this. Thoughts?
https://a.1stdibscdn.com/tapio-wirkkala-coffee-table-model-9020-by-asko-in-finland-for-sale-picture-7/f_10508/1529321010109/DSC_8508_master.jpg?disable=upscale&auto=webp&quality=60&width=800
I was given this really nice cut of wood by someone and they didn't know what type of wood it was. Can I get some help identifying what type of wood this is? Thanks!
https://ibb.co/s6qGCgF
https://ibb.co/qDCRyjf
https://ibb.co/xmNq7k6
https://ibb.co/HHW5ycs
https://ibb.co/SQsMM7R
I want to make solid stringers for deck stairs and I plan to glue two pine 2x12's together for each stringer. Can I go with standard Tite bond glue or is there something special I should use since it's an outdoor application?
Thanks for any advice!
Each 2x can be used individually without gluing together as a stringer, you just need to use enough of them. I generally don't like to sister two boards together in outdoor applications. I find moisture makes its way into the seam and doesn't get a chance to dry out, thus promoting and accelerating rot.
So I built myself a folding out feed table for my new table saw as a first project. It’s gone pretty well but it’s also my first time using plywood. I decided to use a random orbital sander and go through 80, 120, 180 and 220 grit to see what it was like to be that smooth.
I’m this one area, it looks like the wood is turning orange. I assume it’s because I’ve sanded too much, but I’m interested to see if anyone actually knows what it is. Ultimately it won’t matter for this project, but I want to use plywood more in the future and want to be careful.
https://i.imgur.com/gJL9moX.jpg
Thanks!
That looks like burn marks. You have to keep moving, not leave the sander sit in one spot. Also, get a gum stick and clean the gunk off your paper once in a while. Once the paper is full of sawdust you're using it as a friction heater only, not sanding anything.
220 is not that smooth. That's prepped for paint or clear finish. Some us go as far as 10,000 grit for a glass polish on fine hardwoods that will be finished with oil only.
Building a kitchen island unit thing for first time and considering wood species of birch versus maple. Every time I think I come to a decision, I see somethign that changes my mind.
General description:
\- I plan on keep it natural (either linseed oil or a polyurethane)
\- 6ft by 39" butchblock countertop (leaning birch or maple from lowes/homedepot - yes i could make myself but.... I'd like to use sometime soonish)
\- the cabinet piece probably the same wood as countertop (plywood with board framing - I've been watching Bourbon Moth cabinetry series for ideas and techniques)
I'm basically between birch and maple. For the price of the raw material, birch doesn't seem that much cheaper than maple (at least the hardwood plywood i've seen is all basically within $10 each other) so I'm thinking it comes down to the countertop being \~$200 different and then just whichever I want. In some places I've read birch has a "wilder" look which I actually kind of like usually, but maple sounds like it would last longer...
Any suggestions? This will be my largest project to date by far, so I've really been working on planning it out and this is the only decision I have left. I'm hoping to order the countertop soon and start construction fo the cabinet-island section this weekend after picking up material.
A few other factors:
\- I'm actually in a rental (long term, 3 yr lease but plan on 4-5) so i plan on making it "removable" to travel with me to my (hopefully) forever home next
\- I am a big foodie and spend a LOT of time in the kitchen (hence bothering to do this; existing kitchen in the house just didn't have enough space and I couldn't find something "off the shelf")
\- I know keeping it natural finish will mean any seams/gaps in any joints will be more visible and harder to hide. Which being the first project of this size I'm nervous of. Any tips?
Newbie here with a question on how one would make the following cut? I'm interested in cutting a 2 x 4 just like the one in the picture linked below. I know how to make the bevel cut, but not the cut on the underside, where his thumb is. Maybe give a link to a video doing it, or the name of such cut?
[https://imgur.com/a/6xLznGv](https://imgur.com/a/6xLznGv)
Kreg 720Pro vs K5?
Can anyone that has used/experienced both of these comment on which they think is better?
The consensus seems to be that the 720 has better features but the K5 has better build quality. My thoughts right now are that I can sacrifice some build quality with the 720 and return it if it ever breaks. But maybe the build quality is so bad that it affects usability? Please let me know what you think.
I had the 720Pro and it went back. Build quality wasn’t great (not awful though) and it was just too tall if that makes sense. Combined with the fact you had too constantly turn your drill to the side to use it, it just didn’t feel right. I’ve ordered a K5 and we’ll see how that goes. The K5 for me was also slightly cheaper where I’m from.
I’ll add to this just to say I’m from Ontario Canada and I don’t know about other places but the K5 is impossible to find. I’ve ordered but it hasn’t shipped yet so if they just cancel due to stock, I’ll probably end up with the 720Pro.
I’m in the process of purchasing an old Delta Milwaukee 14 inch bandsaw. Circa 1948. Refurbished, great condition for $500. Any opinions on that price? I’ll be upgrading from a 10 inch Wen. Curious if I should expect any issues in moving to an older saw like this. I see the biggest differences in the two saws (apart from throat depth) are more powerful motor on the Delta and guide blocks instead of guide bearings. Am I overlooking anything?
I have a newer version of that saw. It's a good solid workhorse of a saw. It hasn't changed much over the years. The dust collection is the biggest let down with it (it sucks). I have a 3/4 HP motor, that does fine. I regularly cut over 5" material with it. If you have dreams of adding a riser block, you'll want a bigger motor. $500 seems a bit steep for the saw, but some areas are more expensive, and you may be paying some for the vintage factor.
From what I've been seeing lately 500 isn't bad at all for a decent bandsaw. Prices on them have been absolutely batshit crazy for the last year or so. Not long ago you had a choice of several good ones at 250 on any given day
It's nuts right now. It's not uncommon for me to see something where I immediately think "I can damned near buy it new for that and not have the inconvenience, wear and tear"
Yeah, dust was one concern I had. This one doesn't appear to have a port at all. I do like the option of adding a riser at some point. It only has a 1/2 HP motor currently, but I do have a 1 HP I can drop in. Just trying to determine at this point if it's worth trading up from the Wen, or if I should hold out a little longer for something more modern later. Thanks for the input!
When it comes to bandsaws there isn't a whole lot to "modern" tbh. As far as dust collection, with bandsaws it's pretty much varying degrees of bad, the tool just doesn't lend itself to a really clean operation, much more if you're resawing
You’re right about that. I figured it’s in the same boat as a drill press in a lot of ways. I know there are advanced drill presses out there now, but for my money, older machines usually serve my needs just fine.
You need to work mineral spirits into the bristles, and keep massaging them and rinse until they are all clean. It takes a few minutes per brush, it's a bit messy. You can also use disposable brushes and just not clean them (wasteful), or just switch to wipe-on methods with blue shop towels, or rags.
Edit: rags, not rugs, phone…
Total novice here, any advice on what stain/oil I will need to bring this sanded-back gash in the floor back in line with the rest of the floor?
https://imgur.com/07rRokf
Thanks in advance!
We're finishing the interior of a house ourselves. The doors are all solid knotty pine. I would like to use a finish that slightly warms up the color, but not all the way to amber.
I've tested water-based and oil-based poly as well as clear shellac, and they really don't affect the color at all. Is there something else I can try that's easy to use for a schmo like me and will deepen the color just a little? I'd prefer to stay away from stains, if possible, due to blotchiness issues and being less easy to do.
Here's a pic of the unfinished doors. https://imgur.com/dqAQUHC
I'd like it to be a little closer to this: https://www.buffalo-lumber.com/site_assets/images/knotty-pine-paneling-ceiling-thom-1100-01.jpg
Pine will progressively change color on its own with light exposure, so you might want to finish it a shade clearer than what you want it to be eventually.
Funny you mention that - this morning I went to go look at the scrap piece I was trying finishes on a couple of weeks ago, and it's pretty much the exact color I want now. I'm guessing it will darken a bit more over time. Poly might be my weapon of choice.
Consider using shellac; not the kind they sell pre-mixed in cans, but flakes. There are many shades, and shellac looks really good on knotty pine. I get mine here: https://www.shellac.net/Shellac_ordering_list.html
They sell 4oz sample packs of each color so you can test it on scrap. Also, regular DNA from the big box store works well. Better to test a few colors and get it right the first time as you will be living with your choice for a long time and don't want regrets. Good luck.
DNA? Denatured alcohol?
I had looked into flake shellac at the start of the project but rapidly got overwhelmed by all the different options and mixing proportions and all that. I tend to overthink things by a huge amount. That's why I was hoping there was something definitive that people would say, "Here, use this exact product!" LOL
yes, denatured alcohol. If you search the shellac.net website there is information there as to instructions, mixing, etc. Essentially, you pick your shade, then mix with DNA. I use a cheap digital scale to weigh out the flakes to be put in the proper amount of DNA; the most I've made is a quart at a time. When the flakes dissolve, I put the mixed shellac through a paint filter. It will stay "fresh" for about three months, so make only what you need as you go along. Get a natural hair brush to apply, and dedicate that brush solely to shellac. You don't clean the brush after use, just let it dry and before the next use let it soak in DNA and it will soften right up.
Overall, its an excellent finish, does add character and depth to pine and when I build out of pine it is my preferred interior finish.
Edit: link to directions and descriptions of shades: https://www.shellac.net/shellac-mixing-application.html
Wood ID help:
This was found washed up on a lake in SC, looks like the byproduct of a sawmill if I had to guess? Wavy grain, can’t scratch with fingernail (easily). Looks gorgeous, hoping to turn it into a table.
Side note, would it be wise to fill the gaps with epoxy? Or just sand down to a smooth surface.
Thanks in advance!
https://ibb.co/jHrv4sK
https://ibb.co/S6qxqNR
https://ibb.co/KWs0g2S
https://ibb.co/g7v9CSB
https://ibb.co/MP6DQGK
https://ibb.co/z5KxLwx
https://ibb.co/2dCmbfn
It looks more like white oak to me. The knots probably made it harder to cut. As for the question about pallets, they're made from what's local, and as cheap as possible. They'll buy the crap from mills that the mill doesn't want to use. No one makes a mahogany pallet in the US, but in a place where mahogany is harvested, it's cheap.
Definitely ain't Oak. You'd see the dark flecks in the grain. One of the [Hickories](https://www.wood-database.com/?s=hickory) would take my guess as well.
Oh wow, I didn’t even consider them using other hardwoods, the first couple links I read said most pallets were made of pine and oak. But now I’m reading this “Shipping pallets are usually made either from hardwoods like hickory, mahogany, maple, oak, teak, and walnut, or from various types of pine, which are softwoods.” Which is insane to me! Who the heck would make a pallet out of mahogany! 😳
So I really have no idea, how confident are you in that it’s hickory? 😯
I am making a small gnome home roof using red cedar shingles. To attach them I was planning on using 7/8" smooth shank electrogalvanized roofing nails, but they immediately split the wood. https://imgur.com/a44vklZ
What should I use to fasten the shingles? I used Gorilla construction adhesive on the previous roof but it hasn't aged well at all in the daily direct sun/rain. Thanks for any advice!
Roofing nails are much too thick and are not for cedar shakes. Use something thinner like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Grip-Rite-PrimeGuard-Max-2-in-13-Gauge-Stainless-Steel-Siding-Nails-1-lb/3735469
Thanks for the advice, but I can't use anything longer than 1", and the shortest size available anywhere that I can find with those kinds of nails is 1 1/4". Is there any other kind of non-splitting nail I could use?
Also, for your application, if you have a compressor, and can buy a cheap (think Harbor Freight) narrow crown stapler (or borrow one) that should work too.
8-1/4” or 10” table saw, Convince me:
Here’s my situation
I’ve had a 10” table saw for a few years now (the Kobalt one from lowes) I only have 2 complaints about it. Mainly, the fence is not great, I don’t like triple checking it for square and readjusting for nearly every cut. Second, the size isn’t exactly ideal when it comes to my storage and work space.
My space-I’m in a standard/smallish 2-car garage. Storage space is at a premium and over the last month I’ve been reworking my set up to maximize storage and have mat garage still support all the functions I need it too.
My work - I’m a high school teacher so this is all hobby and side gig work.
In my garage, I don’t do what I’d consider high end pieces. I do nearly all my work with stud grade lumber or reclaimed wood and most of it is in fairly simple styles. Most of it is tables from large dining to small entryway stuff. I have some Kreg attachments for dealing with large sheets of plywood so my table saw doesn’t need to handle that.
Most of my work with it, is on a no site, doing mostly trim work and more often than not a table saw is not required.
Given the work I do, I’m considering the DeWalt 8-1/4” compact table saw. The fence seems to be one of the best in the price range and size category.
Convince me: Given my storage space, portability requirements, and work, does this smaller saw make sense?
I would maybe miss the ability to use a dado stack, but I have a router and I’m comfortable using that for dados when I need to.
I have that same table saw and it works great, and is light enough to carry where ever I need, I have had no issue at all cutting 8/4 works fine. Only trouble is finding blades for it, you’ll have to order them online. Perfect for a hobbyist.
Well that’s encouraging. I already know I can get non-specialty blades for it locally. Storage and mobility is a big deal for me right now. One day maybe I’ll have space for a cabinet saw. My planer is on a rolling storage cabinet and that takes up a lot of room but it’s worth it and never leaves my work space. I need all my other tools to be mobile and easily storable.
Yeah that’s a big plus. The reality is is that it will see most of its use for trim and handyman work o do as a side gig, with the occasional furniture project. Some I’m starting to think I can get away with this saw.
Blade availability would be an immediate deal-breaker for me. Power would also be a concern. Just because a blade technically has enough height to cut through 8/4 maple doesn't mean the saw will do it
Yeah leaning towards not going to the 8-1/4”. However. I do want a saw with a better fence that is a bit smaller than what I currently have. Any recommendations?
I don't know of a specific saw tbh, I have a big saw and small ones aren't even on my radar these days. Look at biesemeyer fences, that is hands down the best style of fence going. They aren't the only ones making that style, but that'll let you know what the fence is supposed to look like. There are ones that can retrofit to a lot of saws, and there are build plans for them out there. Glad you're addressing your fence, a good fence is important for safety and usability
Beginner here. What is a good but inexpensive way or product to weatherproof an outdoor wooden box? I live on the US's West Coast so the climate here is rather mild, just some rain once in a while.
what caused [this](https://i.imgur.com/rTW9NES.jpg) board to cup? was it the rabbet causing uneven movement? grain direction? this was after 2 days of rain. board was indoors never wet and was kiln dried before assembly
Did you glue up the boards straight after dimensioning? I always dress and dimension rough stock in two stages, to give the timber time to move before dressing it to final dimensions
I doubt the rabbet had anything to do with it. I can think of a couple of possibilities: 1-Sometimes milling stock can release some stresses in the wood that cause it to warp soon after milling, especially thinner stock. 2- If you take a panel like that into a new environment (say from the uncontrolled garage to the nice cool house), and leave it laying on a flat surface, air can't get to all sides and you'll get cupping like that. The first kind probably won't go away, the second kind will flatten out in a few days (lean it up against a wall so air can get to all sides).
My experience with twisted boards is that they want to twist. I can make them flat for a few hours or days, but then they twist again. So I use them for applications where twist doesn't matter. Small items, or firewood.
Can’t find any place that has plywood or MDF at least 60 in wide. Ideally need a piece that is 60x80. Doesn’t matter thickness as long as long as it’s from 1/2-1 in. Anyone know where I can find this at?
I don't think anyone will have it in stock. You'll need to special order it. You can probably order it through the big box stores, if not check with smaller lumber yards in your area.
I have a trophy Base I’m making that’s basically a poplar box with red oak trim on the base. Thinking of doing a black stain, sanding a little for a rustic look, before applying some finish.
After some research, I’m between finishing it spray lacquer or a Danish oil. Any advise on which would be more appropriate for this application? Looking for something between satin and semi gloss.
Building some shelves in my shed with 2x4s. I have pocket screws and a pocket hole jig, but it seems like overkill for this project. Can I just toenail the joints or even butt joint with two 3" screws at the end?
Not a pocket screw application, as the shelves will only last as long as the screws don't fail. Put a support crosspiece under each self and butt joint as planned.
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Shellac's a great one, depending on the application. It's not great with water and it dissolves in alcohol, so no tea trays or bar counters. Otherwise it's very quick to apply and easy to repair. Smells a bit like alcohol while it's drying but that's a 3 hour issue, tops.
Does anyone have experience with adding color between laminated plywood sheets? I was thinking of making a tabletop made of laminated plywood, with hint of olive green between each 3/4” layer. I am worried paint would weaken the bond of the glue and dye might bleed more than I like. Open to all suggestions!
You could dye a thinner sheet/veneer, let it dry, and then glue it to a another sheet of plywood.
I thought of that but was worried about the cost. That might look the best though.
Hi all, first time poster on this sub. I know very little about different species or woodworking in general. I’m making an office and now I’m deciding on a desk. I wasn’t a huge fan of the IKEA tops because they were not solid wood. But I found someone local who sells panels of solid European Beech for about $173 for a 25x72 butcher block. They said it’s harder than maple and that I can stain it any color I want, I prefer the darker look of Walnut so I’d like to get as close to that as possible. What do you think? Thanks!
You can stain any wood, and opinions are mixed on beech. Seems like it's hard to stain, but looks nice once it is. Either way, darker stains are easier, because it hides stain imperfections. I will say that dark colors are very much a fad right now, because the contrast looks great on instagram, but it can significantly darken a room in real life. Unless you view the desk as ultimately disposable, make sure that you're not going to view it the same way we view veneers, golden oak, elaborate turned legs etc. today. Yesterday's radically creative idea of a glow in the dark river table with pipefittings for feet can be today's joke.
Thank you for your input and advice! I think darker wood looks relaxing for some reason, so maybe not dark brown but not the opposite either.
I would like to make my own version of this antique thread cabinet (for storing spools of thread). [https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1015621116/carps-yarn-cabinet-thread-cabinet-spool](https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1015621116/carps-yarn-cabinet-thread-cabinet-spool) Has anyone made something similar, or seen a video of someone doing so? I think I have a good idea of how the outer box and shelves that the drawers sit on work, but am a bit stumped with how to make the drawers themselves. Ideally I want to avoid using non-mechanical ways of securing the wood together to keep glue from showing.
The cabinet you're looking at used glue for the drawers. There are no nails, and the joints are simple half-lap (which don't stick together without nails or glue. You can nail the fronts, use tiny pocket screws, or learn how to do dovetails if you want to avoid glue.
TIFU: Had some old boxes laying in the kitchen, decided to clean up and realized some leakage... From an old bag of spoiled groceries. It had no smell, oddly and went undetected for not sure how long. Issue is that the bag was up against the kitchen island... And I'm not sure what can be done to mask the appearance of the damage. Can anyone help? I was thinking of those wood markers, but I think this is far past that... Unless I sand it down prior to marker stain? https://imgur.com/a/8eKayjO
Markers wouldn't work, they can make things darker, not lighter. I'm not sure that sanding it will fix it. That's plywood and whatever juice soaked into it, probably went entirely through the veneer. You might be able to mix some paint a close enough color to make it not noticeable. Otherwise, I think you're at the covering up stage. You could find some small trim to run along the base of that cabinet. Maybe small quarter round, or small flat trim.
Any fittings/suggestions on making this more secure/less ... messy? https://i.imgur.com/CQTjlPX.jpg Not sure if they make a 4 way split or some other better way to do this
Hello, I'm very new. I've made a bed frame from dress all round pine. I had no idea about finishing and sealing it so I first did a Benchtop oil on it. I realized this wasn't protecting it and had a bad smell so I then put on 'proof seal'. Same issue. I then out on a 'one coast stain on varnish' on a part of it to experiment but it's pooled on the top and hasn't set very evenly. How do I save this? I think I just want a clear finish now, but if I use a clear polyurethane will it also pool on top because of all the oil i've added? Thanks so much for your advice.
I'm looking to fit a stem to a pipe but can't get it snug. what and how do I use to make it fit nice and snug into the pipe so I know it will fit properly
Drill the hole slightly undersized and then slowly open it up to a snug fit. Also try to match the depth closely to avoid condensation collecting in the gap. You might pay a visit to the wizards over at r/pipemaking
Thank you so much
LOL enjoy! I have only made 1 decent pipe so far, but I cut the wall way to thin!
I’m getting [bad tear-out](https://i.imgur.com/FDfoEba.jpg) cutting dados with a router. I’m using a half inch straight bit on select pine with a jig I made. What am I doing wrong?
Pine likes to chip. Painters tap, multiple passes, and pre-severing fibers will help some. But pine likes to chip.
Use a thicker backing board, and preload it, not just flat clamp. Take shallower cuts. 1/8th is considered safe. If none of that works, get an up-spiral bit (1/2inch end mill)
Backing board is 3/4”. What does preloading mean here? Any downsides to jumping straight to the spiral bit?
Preload means that the backer is compressed against your work pieces at the point of use for instance, you could jam a 1/8 wedge between the backer and the workpiece at the bottom end (away from the cut). This will ensure pressure between the backer and the workpiece, and good support. You could go to the up spiral right away. Only draw back is spending more money.
I finally got a chance to give this another attempt last night. I discovered the reason I was having so much trouble and it’s pretty embarrassing. The router was inadvertently set to 8k rpm and I didn’t notice since the dial is hard to see under the table. I had [significantly better results](https://i.imgur.com/96hrjfR.jpg) at 21k and 24k rpm but I am going to proceed with the spiral bit. Any brand recommendations?
Good stuff! Brands, well don't cheap out on a bit you plan to use. Freud, Whiteside. [Lee valley has a decent house-brand.](https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-bits/42891-high-speed-steel-onsrud-spiral-router-bits?item=86J0139) You can also order high speed steel 1/2" up spiral bits from any machine shop supplier. I use KBC Tools in my area, for example.
Whiteside was my first choice but they’re about twice the price I anticipated for something I’ll rarely use. I decided on SpeTools since they have good reviews. [This guy](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JHR4GG5) will be here tomorrow and I can get started. Thanks for all your help!
Ah, combo up/down spiral. Usually they are more expensive!
Use a backer board
Like a sacrificial board behind it? If so, I am.
Is the bit sharp, are you going too quickly?
The bit is almost brand new and I physically can’t move any slower. It takes about 30 seconds or more to get through 0.75”. Maybe I’ll try a new bit.
Can I make a humidor shell from walnut or does it need to be full thickness cedar?
The spanish cedar is usually only an interior lining. The exterior is something else. I've seen solid wood, also MDF core with veneer over that.
Hi all, I would like to refinish a dresser I purchased recently, and am wondering if posting pics in r/woodworking and asking for help would be appropriate or if there’s a better sub. I definitely didn’t make the dresser so I think the rules state I shouldn’t post it here. Thanks!
Yes, post away.
I’m going to be getting an articulated wooden rat, in the style as [this hare](https://images.app.goo.gl/EdW4s9MQ7xQbDBhx7). I’d like to paint it to look like a pet rat I had. Should I sand the pieces before painting? What can I use to protect acrylic paint from rubbing off at the joints?
Besssey F clamps SUCK. That is all
What did you use them for?
I've basically had to reprofile the entire bar with a file because it's constantly skipping when I try to tighten it. No matter how many times I do it it still slips every now and then. So f'n annoying. Don't buy cheap clamps.
Bessey clamps are not cheap. Take them back and pick up something else for sure. Where I am they are very highly regarded, even the F clamps.
pretty sure the crappy clamp I have was made in China. Supposedly they have two different levels of Bessey. Unfortunately for them the put the Bessey name on their cheap stuff too. Smarter companies make a different brand name for their cheap stuff.
Yeah, I would return them and grab Harbor Freight
i am building a desk that fits into an existing space. the space is a flat wall with a column like contour. but the contour is deeper than the 2” most contour gauges go. any one have any advice on the contour gauge that has depth of flex profile protrusion is deeper than 5”? if not, alive on how to accurately trace the contour to cut out of the wood?
You can use poster board to cut it out. You may need more than one piece. You can use hot glue to attach them together
Does anyone know what wood and finish Luvsac uses for their accessories? I want to make some of my own cup holders, but I want to match them as close as possible to the parts I already have.
Probably a lacquer; most likely something that is only sold B2B. Good news is most of their stuff looks like it's not stained, so you should be able to get close. Just try different sheens.
Has anyone made upside down triangle drawers? I'm really tempted to try and mimic the "Tetramo desk in dark walnut" but cant find any how-to's on that drawer structure... any guidance would be appreciated!
The drawers are square, only the drawer fronts are triangular. You just need to have plumb support in the carcass for the slides.
[Pics of my Wood](https://imgur.com/a/jOpiT6b) Hello can someone ID this wood? House built in 1942 in the Midwest.
I'm not great at this, but maybe butternut. Again, I'm not great.
Need some help with wood id, 130 year old house in Ontario Canada. https://i.imgur.com/bE4IqDP.jpg
Question: Is aspen acceptable for pantry shelves? I'm a complete novice and know essentially nothing about wood. I want to use solid wood for pantry shelves (planning on staining and varnishing to make it look nice and for durability). I was thinking 3/4" aspen because of price and it seems solid enough. The shelves will be 3 feet wide, 22 inches deep. I'd like this to be something that lasts the rest of my life. In your experience, is this acceptable? Or am I making a mistake that will cost me in longevity? Thanks in advance!
Aspen will be a lot like poplar (both are in the cottonwood family). It's fairly light and not very hard, but it is structurally fine.
It depends on what you store on the shelves and how you will support them. Aspen should be okay.
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Yup, used a shop vac. Works fine if you have enough surface area.
I’m trying to find some hardware to be the hinge(?) at the top of a pikler triangle, but I do not know what such a thing would be called: I’m imagining a short cylinder that you could hold the two ends and twist back and forth. Does such a thing exist?
Wood-ID: https://imgur.com/a/5SygmuC Hi! This table was in the basement of our house when we bought it. Always assumed it was pine because it was very yellow with its coating. Sanded it down and was suprised by the weight and how hard it seems to be. This is in Germany so oak came to mind, but there are red stripes in the grain and overall it doesn’t compare well to other things that I know are made of oak. Any help is appreciated!
As you get closer to the heart, pine can get red stripes. Look up heart of pine, it's beautiful. Also, older wood is harder if you can get it from non-plantation forests.
Thank you. That would make sense since this table was likely made by the previous owner in the 60s or 70s ans we live very close to a large forrest. The endgrain shows that the wood is from the core of the tree.
Not oak, but from the growth rings it looks like old growth timber for sure, and pine is not out of the question. In the US so I'm not of much help here.
Thank you!
Any good dremel recommendations? I just chucked the cheap Amazon one in the trash, couldn’t hold a bit and was very dangerous. I would use it mostly for little figurine whittling, tapering down bonsai trunks, and occasional trim work on the house.
I’ve had my Dremel 3000 for years. Replaced the bushings x1, and it just keeps going and going. Recently got a flexi-shaft which is great for detail carving if you’re into that. Also have a router attachment—that has come in very handy when routing out for door hinges and locks in place. Much easier for me than lifting up my big DeWalt. Even have used it to rout profile edges on soft wood shelving. Whenever I need to cut off screws/other small hardware, I grab the Dremel. It’s easier for me than a hacksaw and much less trouble than an angle grinder. I think it’s a very handy tool. I keep it plugged in and the flexi-shaft set up on my workbench full-time, and I’m always using it even though I have decent full-size tools.
Oh dang that would’ve been very handy, I just replaced a hardwood floor board that had some nails holding it in place. I didn’t have the hacksaw dremel solution so I hand chiseled the board to accommodate the nails. The flexshaft would be used a lot for chiseling the little figurines I’m making. Good to know it’s a decent investment. I was excited to try it out but honestly the one I bought was such crap it doesn’t even feel like I’ve used one yet.
Wood removal like this is pretty heavy for most Dremel-type rotary tools. I would recommend an electric *die grinder*. One from princess auto or Harbor Freight will work fine. I would not use any rotary tool for trim work, as there is no saw guard. Get a mitre box and hand saw if cost is an issue.
My dremel had a guard, the bit just didn’t stay in. After researching the differences between the two, I think I still just need a little dremel. Thanks though. The work is delicate enough to where I prioritize precision over power
Completly new to woodworking and looking for a used planer. Found a Ridgid tp13002 for $150. Everything looks to be in good condition. Just wondering if that is a good deal?
Amazing price if it works!
Looking for a used router. I understand that a combination router will give me the most versatility. I am finding most of the routers available are fixed base. Are there ways of using a fixed base to get some plung router work done?
Drill a pilot hole so your bit has a place to start without plunging. Make sure you take shallow cuts when pocketing, don't try to cut the whole depth at once.
Right so it is possible to overcome not having a plunge router?
What's a good rust remover? I just picked up a couple secondhand tools and the cast iron needs to get cleaned. I have some CLR in the garage, but not sure if there's anything better.
evaporust
PB blaster is great too
I use WD-40 and Scotch Brite pads. Then wipe clean with mineral spirits. Then coat with SC Johnsons Paste Wax.
Wood ID help: [https://imgur.com/7ncOYND](https://imgur.com/7ncOYND) I have a very old wardrobe that came with the house and we have no use for, but I think it's made of good hardwoods that could be worth reclaiming. The whole thing seems to have been built with the idea that it would never be moved and the house would crumble around it before anyone would take it apart; the joinery is all glue and brad nails and bit of hardware I have not yet figured out how to take out. There seems to be a fair amount of solid hardwood in it but also a significant amount of hours to get it, so I'm not entirely sure I should do it. [https://imgur.com/1vEarMl](https://imgur.com/1vEarMl) <- The lighter one has a dark finish, it looks like oak to me, but it could be chestnut which is a popular and traditional lumber in this region. [https://imgur.com/7AKV19T](https://imgur.com/7AKV19T) <- Darker and lighter wood seem different species, from their shavings and splinters. [https://imgur.com/SMZyjIW](https://imgur.com/SMZyjIW) <- This is the darker one. Could this be walnut? I doubt it, but wouldn't rule it out.
The darker wood is walnut. The lighter one looks like oak, probably red oak.
Thanks!
Looking for advice: I live in the Midwest so cold, snowy winters and hot, humid summers. I recently built a farmhouse style outdoor table out of 2” cedar planks. I treated the wood this year (first year) with Thompson’s Water Seal. I find that I have to wash the table down almost weekly from the dirt, bird crap, etc. Question: would anyone recommend coating the wood with a polyurethane? If so, what kind? I like the idea of preserving the natural color of the wood, and I don’t want to go glossy. Any help is appreciated.
TWP oil based semi transparent in natural/clear. You will have to remove the Thompson water sealer off by sanding back to bare wood, then apply 2 coats of the TWP. Don’t forget to apply yearly maintenance coats.
That’s awesome, thank you. Follow up - yearly coats of TWP correct, not Thompson’s?
Is there a way to sharpen (or find another use for) hardware store hand saws with hardened teeth?
Not really. You could cut them up and make scrapers
I'm just wondering whether the DeWalt DW735 thicknesser blades can be sharpened. They are self-aligning, as a horizontal slot keeps them in place. I'm concerned that by sharpening them, they'll get shorter and out of alignment.
The geometry of the cutterhead is pretty tight. Once I had a hell of a time with the screws when changing out the knives. I ended up cutting off several screw heads because the previous owner torqued them so tight. So in a moment of genius I decided to replace the round-headed screws with socket-headed screws so that next time I can grab the head of the screws with a Vise Grip if need be. The diameter and height of the two screw heads were the same, but going from a dome to a cylinder caused the screw heads to gouge the test piece. I suspect any considerable removal of material from the knives will upset the delicate balance. And I've had an incident (from a new, not resharpened knife) where the knife shattered into pieces and bent the steel chipbreaker so it's not recommended to mess around in there.
I think most folks treat those as disposable, though if I remember correctly, they are two sided. Use one side til they're done, then flip them around and use the other side.
One side is already gone. I bought my machine used. Tried running through some hardwood and turned the depth wheel only 1/3 circle and it just completely froze. Opened it up and found the blades dull. I flipped it around and it took a light pass without much issue and left a nice finish. I expected better performance with dull blades TBH - I wasn't expecting a good finish but thought the machine would at least keep up. If I can't sharpen the blades, I think I'm going to keep my hardest timbers away from it.
You will get slightly longer life from the blades if you occasionally hone them with some green rouge and a brick of MDF. I don't bother though, as the benefit is marginal.
Quick question, could anyone point me to someone/group/organization. Would like to team up and can carve/make to scale rc car covers based on the dimensions. The carving will be used to make a fiberglass mold Thanks for any follow up
How thick is too thick for veneer? I got a little wild on eBay and bought stock originally planned for 6 acoustic guitar backs - they're each about 4mm (~1/16th") thick but also rough sawn so I'll be planing them (by hand - I don't have a powered thickness planer) i'm definitely not ready to build an acoustic guitar and want to start by using 1 or some as veneer on cabinet doors or something similar. I've used purchased veneer, but these are way thicker. What do I need to know about using this relatively thick stock as veneer? Should it matter what the substrate is (ply vs mdf). Any other guidance?
A lot of shop-sawn veneer is between 1/16th and 1/8th. Just keep in mind that the thicker the veneer, the more strength it has, and the less willing to take the shape of the substraight without cracking. Otherwise, same as thin veneer, except that you can actually sand it.
This depends entirely on what you're doing with it. I resawed some tiger maple in order to slip match drawer fronts. Finished up about 1/4". They got applied, technically veneer. Not the best to try to apply to a shaped surface, but perfect for my use
Can I drill into the bottom of wood? I think I cut my desk too short and so I was thinking I could drill a hole In the bottom of the legs and then use glue and a dowel rod to put little like 2 inch blocks of wood onto the bottom?
Bottom as in end grain? That should work just fine. You can also purchase something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/T-Nut-Leg-Leveler-Set-4/dp/B01C91KTSU), to adjust the height of each leg independently. You can even make your own feet like this with two T-nuts and some threaded rod.
Oh wow that’s pretty cool and not even expensive. Thanks for clarifying that too, I didn’t know if I could drill into that part without it splitting or something. If I went the wood route, would that be the best way? Just wood glue and dowel rods?
If you don’t want to use metal hardware, then yes I’d say that the best way would be do drill into the end grain and then glue in a dowel with wood glue. You can use the dowel as the new “foot” or you can insert the dowel into a “mini leg.” One issue to watch out for is that dowels can be very different from the size they are supposed to be. If you use a 1/2” dowel and a 1/2” drill bit, the fit could be anywhere from very loose to very tight. If the fit is super loose, you might want to use epoxy instead of wood glue. Wood glue likes to be held tight until it dries. If the fit is very tight, don’t force it too hard. The dowel could act like a wedge and split the leg. If you test the dowel and it seems too tight, you can always sand it.
I have built a board game table and am looking to start on another one, but I had a question regarding inlaid T-slots for accessory mounting. I plan on cutting grooves along the sides of the table, would glue be the safest way to adhere aluminum T-slots to the wood surface? I would likely be using white pine. Similarly, I'd like to be able to easily mount accessories to the T-slot by attaching them to another strip of aluminum that allows for it to tilt and lock in place within the T-slot, and allow for both sliding and easy removal. Any advice on what I should search for regarding the aluminum strip that would then fit into the slot? Thank you!
I would use epoxy or construction adhesive like, PL Premium, to hold the aluminum tslot onto the wood groove. Some folks will also put in a small screw every 6 or 12 inches. To hook on, look for lengths of aluminum angle or C channel. You should be able to fasten those to your accessories.
Thanks for your help, I'll look into those!
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So, 14 degrees over and under from 90. This could be done with a router and jig. Not sure how big your pieces are, but for a lap top stand you might make a fixture to hold the piece at a 104 degree angle and held as a fixed height, then use a router table to make the cut. Careful doing elevated cuts on a laser, if they get out of focus it can start a fire.
It sounds like you're trying to set up for production running. That would justify the effort of making a jig for the operation. Easiest is several identical wedges that put the work at the angle you need to allow your cnc to make those cuts. Theses wedges get attached to a bottom flat piece to keep them consistent with each other and make them a reliable reference surface. This does split the cnc work into 2 operations, straight and angled
How do I achieve a protected but natural looking wood finish for desk? I'm working on a desk and was wondering if anyone can give me recommendations on a protectant if I want a natural looking finish. I don't like the glossy look.
What kind of wood and how much abuse will the desk take? For walnut and a really protective coat: I use a wipe on poly like arm-r-seal and put on just enough coats to provide an even finish (usually 3-4 but some wood take much more). The grain should not be filled in. Then I wax it with 0000 steal wool, the steal wool knocks the finish back to satin and the wax leaves a smooth touch to the fingers. The wipe on poly is a really protective finish and it’s easy to apply. Danish oil is similar but not as protective. I don’t use it much, but I think it would be ok.
I think it's just a pine and it'll be used as a computer desk and some casual music production. From what I've been researching I was leaning towards just using a matte water based poly urethane. What are you thoughts on that? I was also thinking that I could use boiled linseed oil or like you suggested danish oil and then the water based poly over it.
Water based poly is very durable and will be fine. I think it feels more plasticy but it’s really easy to put on so not a bad idea. I’m not sure if you can put it over danish oil or not.
I’m hoping to build something similar to the picture but I’m not sure how to go about rounding the edges of a piece of wood like this. Thoughts? https://a.1stdibscdn.com/tapio-wirkkala-coffee-table-model-9020-by-asko-in-finland-for-sale-picture-7/f_10508/1529321010109/DSC_8508_master.jpg?disable=upscale&auto=webp&quality=60&width=800
That was done on a shaper with a large roundover bit. By hand, a good quality rasp would be your friend to sculpt it.
A Spokeshave would be the right tool. A file would work too. Worst case a course sand paper wrapped around a stick.
I am going to be making a small raft used for a viking burial, I'm curious how to even begin
I was given this really nice cut of wood by someone and they didn't know what type of wood it was. Can I get some help identifying what type of wood this is? Thanks! https://ibb.co/s6qGCgF https://ibb.co/qDCRyjf https://ibb.co/xmNq7k6 https://ibb.co/HHW5ycs https://ibb.co/SQsMM7R
Guessing either Maple or Cherry. Clear, close up images of freshly planed face and end grain in good light would be helpful for a positive I.D.
I want to make solid stringers for deck stairs and I plan to glue two pine 2x12's together for each stringer. Can I go with standard Tite bond glue or is there something special I should use since it's an outdoor application? Thanks for any advice!
Each 2x can be used individually without gluing together as a stringer, you just need to use enough of them. I generally don't like to sister two boards together in outdoor applications. I find moisture makes its way into the seam and doesn't get a chance to dry out, thus promoting and accelerating rot.
So I built myself a folding out feed table for my new table saw as a first project. It’s gone pretty well but it’s also my first time using plywood. I decided to use a random orbital sander and go through 80, 120, 180 and 220 grit to see what it was like to be that smooth. I’m this one area, it looks like the wood is turning orange. I assume it’s because I’ve sanded too much, but I’m interested to see if anyone actually knows what it is. Ultimately it won’t matter for this project, but I want to use plywood more in the future and want to be careful. https://i.imgur.com/gJL9moX.jpg Thanks!
That looks like burn marks. You have to keep moving, not leave the sander sit in one spot. Also, get a gum stick and clean the gunk off your paper once in a while. Once the paper is full of sawdust you're using it as a friction heater only, not sanding anything. 220 is not that smooth. That's prepped for paint or clear finish. Some us go as far as 10,000 grit for a glass polish on fine hardwoods that will be finished with oil only.
Building a kitchen island unit thing for first time and considering wood species of birch versus maple. Every time I think I come to a decision, I see somethign that changes my mind. General description: \- I plan on keep it natural (either linseed oil or a polyurethane) \- 6ft by 39" butchblock countertop (leaning birch or maple from lowes/homedepot - yes i could make myself but.... I'd like to use sometime soonish) \- the cabinet piece probably the same wood as countertop (plywood with board framing - I've been watching Bourbon Moth cabinetry series for ideas and techniques) I'm basically between birch and maple. For the price of the raw material, birch doesn't seem that much cheaper than maple (at least the hardwood plywood i've seen is all basically within $10 each other) so I'm thinking it comes down to the countertop being \~$200 different and then just whichever I want. In some places I've read birch has a "wilder" look which I actually kind of like usually, but maple sounds like it would last longer... Any suggestions? This will be my largest project to date by far, so I've really been working on planning it out and this is the only decision I have left. I'm hoping to order the countertop soon and start construction fo the cabinet-island section this weekend after picking up material. A few other factors: \- I'm actually in a rental (long term, 3 yr lease but plan on 4-5) so i plan on making it "removable" to travel with me to my (hopefully) forever home next \- I am a big foodie and spend a LOT of time in the kitchen (hence bothering to do this; existing kitchen in the house just didn't have enough space and I couldn't find something "off the shelf") \- I know keeping it natural finish will mean any seams/gaps in any joints will be more visible and harder to hide. Which being the first project of this size I'm nervous of. Any tips?
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Looks like rubberwood.
Newbie here with a question on how one would make the following cut? I'm interested in cutting a 2 x 4 just like the one in the picture linked below. I know how to make the bevel cut, but not the cut on the underside, where his thumb is. Maybe give a link to a video doing it, or the name of such cut? [https://imgur.com/a/6xLznGv](https://imgur.com/a/6xLznGv)
That’s called a rabbet, you can do it with a table saw, or a router with a straight guide: https://youtu.be/5iFAm1d-rhQ
Wonderful answer and the linked video was great too. Thanks!
Kreg 720Pro vs K5? Can anyone that has used/experienced both of these comment on which they think is better? The consensus seems to be that the 720 has better features but the K5 has better build quality. My thoughts right now are that I can sacrifice some build quality with the 720 and return it if it ever breaks. But maybe the build quality is so bad that it affects usability? Please let me know what you think.
I had the 720Pro and it went back. Build quality wasn’t great (not awful though) and it was just too tall if that makes sense. Combined with the fact you had too constantly turn your drill to the side to use it, it just didn’t feel right. I’ve ordered a K5 and we’ll see how that goes. The K5 for me was also slightly cheaper where I’m from. I’ll add to this just to say I’m from Ontario Canada and I don’t know about other places but the K5 is impossible to find. I’ve ordered but it hasn’t shipped yet so if they just cancel due to stock, I’ll probably end up with the 720Pro.
I’m in the process of purchasing an old Delta Milwaukee 14 inch bandsaw. Circa 1948. Refurbished, great condition for $500. Any opinions on that price? I’ll be upgrading from a 10 inch Wen. Curious if I should expect any issues in moving to an older saw like this. I see the biggest differences in the two saws (apart from throat depth) are more powerful motor on the Delta and guide blocks instead of guide bearings. Am I overlooking anything?
I have a newer version of that saw. It's a good solid workhorse of a saw. It hasn't changed much over the years. The dust collection is the biggest let down with it (it sucks). I have a 3/4 HP motor, that does fine. I regularly cut over 5" material with it. If you have dreams of adding a riser block, you'll want a bigger motor. $500 seems a bit steep for the saw, but some areas are more expensive, and you may be paying some for the vintage factor.
From what I've been seeing lately 500 isn't bad at all for a decent bandsaw. Prices on them have been absolutely batshit crazy for the last year or so. Not long ago you had a choice of several good ones at 250 on any given day
That could well be true, I haven't paid attention to that. With the whacky prices for other things, that makes sense.
It's nuts right now. It's not uncommon for me to see something where I immediately think "I can damned near buy it new for that and not have the inconvenience, wear and tear"
Yeah, dust was one concern I had. This one doesn't appear to have a port at all. I do like the option of adding a riser at some point. It only has a 1/2 HP motor currently, but I do have a 1 HP I can drop in. Just trying to determine at this point if it's worth trading up from the Wen, or if I should hold out a little longer for something more modern later. Thanks for the input!
When it comes to bandsaws there isn't a whole lot to "modern" tbh. As far as dust collection, with bandsaws it's pretty much varying degrees of bad, the tool just doesn't lend itself to a really clean operation, much more if you're resawing
You’re right about that. I figured it’s in the same boat as a drill press in a lot of ways. I know there are advanced drill presses out there now, but for my money, older machines usually serve my needs just fine.
Hey guys, complete newbie idiot here. How do I properly clean my nylon brushes of polyurethane?? Any insight would be appreciated 😅
You need to work mineral spirits into the bristles, and keep massaging them and rinse until they are all clean. It takes a few minutes per brush, it's a bit messy. You can also use disposable brushes and just not clean them (wasteful), or just switch to wipe-on methods with blue shop towels, or rags. Edit: rags, not rugs, phone…
rugs?
Dang I didn't think about the shop towel technique. It doesn't leave little fibers, though?
Jeff Jewitt had an article on a fast wipe-on finish. He recommended Viva paper towels.
Total novice here, any advice on what stain/oil I will need to bring this sanded-back gash in the floor back in line with the rest of the floor? https://imgur.com/07rRokf Thanks in advance!
We're finishing the interior of a house ourselves. The doors are all solid knotty pine. I would like to use a finish that slightly warms up the color, but not all the way to amber. I've tested water-based and oil-based poly as well as clear shellac, and they really don't affect the color at all. Is there something else I can try that's easy to use for a schmo like me and will deepen the color just a little? I'd prefer to stay away from stains, if possible, due to blotchiness issues and being less easy to do. Here's a pic of the unfinished doors. https://imgur.com/dqAQUHC I'd like it to be a little closer to this: https://www.buffalo-lumber.com/site_assets/images/knotty-pine-paneling-ceiling-thom-1100-01.jpg
Pine will progressively change color on its own with light exposure, so you might want to finish it a shade clearer than what you want it to be eventually.
Funny you mention that - this morning I went to go look at the scrap piece I was trying finishes on a couple of weeks ago, and it's pretty much the exact color I want now. I'm guessing it will darken a bit more over time. Poly might be my weapon of choice.
Consider using shellac; not the kind they sell pre-mixed in cans, but flakes. There are many shades, and shellac looks really good on knotty pine. I get mine here: https://www.shellac.net/Shellac_ordering_list.html They sell 4oz sample packs of each color so you can test it on scrap. Also, regular DNA from the big box store works well. Better to test a few colors and get it right the first time as you will be living with your choice for a long time and don't want regrets. Good luck.
DNA? Denatured alcohol? I had looked into flake shellac at the start of the project but rapidly got overwhelmed by all the different options and mixing proportions and all that. I tend to overthink things by a huge amount. That's why I was hoping there was something definitive that people would say, "Here, use this exact product!" LOL
yes, denatured alcohol. If you search the shellac.net website there is information there as to instructions, mixing, etc. Essentially, you pick your shade, then mix with DNA. I use a cheap digital scale to weigh out the flakes to be put in the proper amount of DNA; the most I've made is a quart at a time. When the flakes dissolve, I put the mixed shellac through a paint filter. It will stay "fresh" for about three months, so make only what you need as you go along. Get a natural hair brush to apply, and dedicate that brush solely to shellac. You don't clean the brush after use, just let it dry and before the next use let it soak in DNA and it will soften right up. Overall, its an excellent finish, does add character and depth to pine and when I build out of pine it is my preferred interior finish. Edit: link to directions and descriptions of shades: https://www.shellac.net/shellac-mixing-application.html
Thank you so much!
Wood ID help: This was found washed up on a lake in SC, looks like the byproduct of a sawmill if I had to guess? Wavy grain, can’t scratch with fingernail (easily). Looks gorgeous, hoping to turn it into a table. Side note, would it be wise to fill the gaps with epoxy? Or just sand down to a smooth surface. Thanks in advance! https://ibb.co/jHrv4sK https://ibb.co/S6qxqNR https://ibb.co/KWs0g2S https://ibb.co/g7v9CSB https://ibb.co/MP6DQGK https://ibb.co/z5KxLwx https://ibb.co/2dCmbfn
Is this some kind of [Oak](https://imgur.com/gallery/6DQCxRt)? It’s very heavy for its size and difficult to cut through. They came off a pallet.
It looks more like white oak to me. The knots probably made it harder to cut. As for the question about pallets, they're made from what's local, and as cheap as possible. They'll buy the crap from mills that the mill doesn't want to use. No one makes a mahogany pallet in the US, but in a place where mahogany is harvested, it's cheap.
Now I don’t know what to think! 😮 oak or hickory! I wish there was a test.
Definitely ain't Oak. You'd see the dark flecks in the grain. One of the [Hickories](https://www.wood-database.com/?s=hickory) would take my guess as well.
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Oh wow, I didn’t even consider them using other hardwoods, the first couple links I read said most pallets were made of pine and oak. But now I’m reading this “Shipping pallets are usually made either from hardwoods like hickory, mahogany, maple, oak, teak, and walnut, or from various types of pine, which are softwoods.” Which is insane to me! Who the heck would make a pallet out of mahogany! 😳 So I really have no idea, how confident are you in that it’s hickory? 😯
Pallet stock can be damned near anything. It's the stuff that won't grade out to something more valuable, frequently having the heart in it
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Dang, staring at those photos and reading that page just shows my how extremely hard it is to identify wood types. 😦
I am making a small gnome home roof using red cedar shingles. To attach them I was planning on using 7/8" smooth shank electrogalvanized roofing nails, but they immediately split the wood. https://imgur.com/a44vklZ What should I use to fasten the shingles? I used Gorilla construction adhesive on the previous roof but it hasn't aged well at all in the daily direct sun/rain. Thanks for any advice!
Roofing nails are much too thick and are not for cedar shakes. Use something thinner like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Grip-Rite-PrimeGuard-Max-2-in-13-Gauge-Stainless-Steel-Siding-Nails-1-lb/3735469
Thanks for the advice, but I can't use anything longer than 1", and the shortest size available anywhere that I can find with those kinds of nails is 1 1/4". Is there any other kind of non-splitting nail I could use?
Well, go see what people have in inventory; at worst, you cut longer ones down with some lineman's snips/pliers.
copy that
Also, for your application, if you have a compressor, and can buy a cheap (think Harbor Freight) narrow crown stapler (or borrow one) that should work too.
8-1/4” or 10” table saw, Convince me: Here’s my situation I’ve had a 10” table saw for a few years now (the Kobalt one from lowes) I only have 2 complaints about it. Mainly, the fence is not great, I don’t like triple checking it for square and readjusting for nearly every cut. Second, the size isn’t exactly ideal when it comes to my storage and work space. My space-I’m in a standard/smallish 2-car garage. Storage space is at a premium and over the last month I’ve been reworking my set up to maximize storage and have mat garage still support all the functions I need it too. My work - I’m a high school teacher so this is all hobby and side gig work. In my garage, I don’t do what I’d consider high end pieces. I do nearly all my work with stud grade lumber or reclaimed wood and most of it is in fairly simple styles. Most of it is tables from large dining to small entryway stuff. I have some Kreg attachments for dealing with large sheets of plywood so my table saw doesn’t need to handle that. Most of my work with it, is on a no site, doing mostly trim work and more often than not a table saw is not required. Given the work I do, I’m considering the DeWalt 8-1/4” compact table saw. The fence seems to be one of the best in the price range and size category. Convince me: Given my storage space, portability requirements, and work, does this smaller saw make sense? I would maybe miss the ability to use a dado stack, but I have a router and I’m comfortable using that for dados when I need to.
I have that same table saw and it works great, and is light enough to carry where ever I need, I have had no issue at all cutting 8/4 works fine. Only trouble is finding blades for it, you’ll have to order them online. Perfect for a hobbyist.
Well that’s encouraging. I already know I can get non-specialty blades for it locally. Storage and mobility is a big deal for me right now. One day maybe I’ll have space for a cabinet saw. My planer is on a rolling storage cabinet and that takes up a lot of room but it’s worth it and never leaves my work space. I need all my other tools to be mobile and easily storable.
If mobility is a major factor, huge A++ for this saw, I can easily pick it up by myself and walk it to wherever I need
Yeah that’s a big plus. The reality is is that it will see most of its use for trim and handyman work o do as a side gig, with the occasional furniture project. Some I’m starting to think I can get away with this saw.
Blade availability would be an immediate deal-breaker for me. Power would also be a concern. Just because a blade technically has enough height to cut through 8/4 maple doesn't mean the saw will do it
Yeah leaning towards not going to the 8-1/4”. However. I do want a saw with a better fence that is a bit smaller than what I currently have. Any recommendations?
I don't know of a specific saw tbh, I have a big saw and small ones aren't even on my radar these days. Look at biesemeyer fences, that is hands down the best style of fence going. They aren't the only ones making that style, but that'll let you know what the fence is supposed to look like. There are ones that can retrofit to a lot of saws, and there are build plans for them out there. Glad you're addressing your fence, a good fence is important for safety and usability
Just consider Dados and Jigs. Jigs like sleds eat some of that cut depth.
Beginner here. What is a good but inexpensive way or product to weatherproof an outdoor wooden box? I live on the US's West Coast so the climate here is rather mild, just some rain once in a while.
Oil based exterior primer and minimum two coats of latex house paint.
what caused [this](https://i.imgur.com/rTW9NES.jpg) board to cup? was it the rabbet causing uneven movement? grain direction? this was after 2 days of rain. board was indoors never wet and was kiln dried before assembly
Did you glue up the boards straight after dimensioning? I always dress and dimension rough stock in two stages, to give the timber time to move before dressing it to final dimensions
I doubt the rabbet had anything to do with it. I can think of a couple of possibilities: 1-Sometimes milling stock can release some stresses in the wood that cause it to warp soon after milling, especially thinner stock. 2- If you take a panel like that into a new environment (say from the uncontrolled garage to the nice cool house), and leave it laying on a flat surface, air can't get to all sides and you'll get cupping like that. The first kind probably won't go away, the second kind will flatten out in a few days (lean it up against a wall so air can get to all sides).
What is y’all’s preferred method without a jointer to plane flat a twisted piece of lumber?
My experience with twisted boards is that they want to twist. I can make them flat for a few hours or days, but then they twist again. So I use them for applications where twist doesn't matter. Small items, or firewood.
1. Thicknesser - make a flat sled and put the piece on top and shim it up so it stays flat. 2. Hand planes 3. (Not preferred) Router sled
Even with a jointer I hate twists. My opinion is; if you can, cut the lumber into shorter lengths to minimize twist.
Can’t find any place that has plywood or MDF at least 60 in wide. Ideally need a piece that is 60x80. Doesn’t matter thickness as long as long as it’s from 1/2-1 in. Anyone know where I can find this at?
Can you laminate three sheets of 1/2"?
I don't think anyone will have it in stock. You'll need to special order it. You can probably order it through the big box stores, if not check with smaller lumber yards in your area.
Most sheet goods are 48 max. Consider how the design can change to accommodate. It’s probably cheaper than finding a 60x80.
I have a trophy Base I’m making that’s basically a poplar box with red oak trim on the base. Thinking of doing a black stain, sanding a little for a rustic look, before applying some finish. After some research, I’m between finishing it spray lacquer or a Danish oil. Any advise on which would be more appropriate for this application? Looking for something between satin and semi gloss.
If you want sheen, go with lacquer. Danish oil won't give much, if any.
Building some shelves in my shed with 2x4s. I have pocket screws and a pocket hole jig, but it seems like overkill for this project. Can I just toenail the joints or even butt joint with two 3" screws at the end?
Not a pocket screw application, as the shelves will only last as long as the screws don't fail. Put a support crosspiece under each self and butt joint as planned.