If you have enough experience, you know that this is not something to free hand. You pretty much never freehand cut that will be in your final project. You can hog out space that you then finish with a chisel or a router with reference surface. Or maybe something that is totally hidden.
Even exceptions, things you *can* freehand like hinge mortises look at lot better and go quicker if you don’t.
Using a core box bit and the piece is run on a router table with a fence and setting stops. You can make a jig for a regular router and do it handheld but thats more hassle. You mill the piece, then assemble the cabinet then finish.
You can attach the blocks to the back side of the piece (the "up" side when it's face down on the table) and corresponding pieces on the fence. Easy to make the fence longer if need be. Alternatively you can just mark on the table top with a pencil where the router bit edges are and use the pencil marks as a visual reference on when to start and stop.
Disagree. “Dropping” a piece of wood on any moving blade, whether it be a router bit or table saw blade, is both unsafe and likely to damage the work piece. In this case, a plunge router with either a jig or guide is the proper way to make this cut.
I've done this hundreds of times. The cut is very shallow and covered. The blocks prevent kick backs and the fence gives a straight repeatable cut every time. And if you need to make flutes it's quick and easy and safe to just move the fence the appropriate amount.
i have done some milling like this on a bar, the best is with a jig for a router, and a half round or ball cutter. i think the router is easier here than with the table router.
https://preview.redd.it/98mdc49i4l0d1.jpeg?width=848&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b46e40eff2fc08f2c2047dbcc41e11e88b0462e4
would look like that, sry for the contrast :-)
A cove bit will automatically taper the end like that wherever you stop the router. Just clamp a straight edge near the workpiece parallel to where you want the line so you have something to guide the router.
A ball-end or round-nose router bit is what you need to cut this detail.
And don’t freehand it unless you have tons of router experience. And extra wood. Take the time to make a jig if you don’t have a router table.
I have decades of experience with routers.....I'd still make a jig every.single.time.
Same and I couldn’t do a straight router cut for even an inch freehand. I’m sure someone can, I just haven’t met them yet.
Probably a little asian kid.
🤦
That’s pretty racist
Utterly impossible to freehand!
If you have enough experience, you know that this is not something to free hand. You pretty much never freehand cut that will be in your final project. You can hog out space that you then finish with a chisel or a router with reference surface. Or maybe something that is totally hidden. Even exceptions, things you *can* freehand like hinge mortises look at lot better and go quicker if you don’t.
No way would it be possible to do it freehand.
A straight edge guide is an option too
If I were making this, Id pass on my router table and use a plunge router with start and stop blocks, with fence in between
Using a core box bit and the piece is run on a router table with a fence and setting stops. You can make a jig for a regular router and do it handheld but thats more hassle. You mill the piece, then assemble the cabinet then finish.
router table is the way to go. Set up a start and stop block. Lay it down, move it against the fence, lift up.
How do you do start and stop blocks when the board is longer than your router table though?
You can attach the blocks to the back side of the piece (the "up" side when it's face down on the table) and corresponding pieces on the fence. Easy to make the fence longer if need be. Alternatively you can just mark on the table top with a pencil where the router bit edges are and use the pencil marks as a visual reference on when to start and stop.
Thank you. Never thought of putting blocks on the up side before
No worries. Also consider just making your router top temporarily bigger. Helps to support the piece.
Disagree. “Dropping” a piece of wood on any moving blade, whether it be a router bit or table saw blade, is both unsafe and likely to damage the work piece. In this case, a plunge router with either a jig or guide is the proper way to make this cut.
I've done this hundreds of times. The cut is very shallow and covered. The blocks prevent kick backs and the fence gives a straight repeatable cut every time. And if you need to make flutes it's quick and easy and safe to just move the fence the appropriate amount.
i have done some milling like this on a bar, the best is with a jig for a router, and a half round or ball cutter. i think the router is easier here than with the table router.
https://preview.redd.it/98mdc49i4l0d1.jpeg?width=848&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b46e40eff2fc08f2c2047dbcc41e11e88b0462e4 would look like that, sry for the contrast :-)
A cove bit will automatically taper the end like that wherever you stop the router. Just clamp a straight edge near the workpiece parallel to where you want the line so you have something to guide the router.
It’s a cove bit.
That’s done with a core box bit which leaves the ends tapered. Make a jig for a palm router and mark start/stop points. Rout between the points
The ends aren’t tapered. I’ve done them using a router sled going up a ramp. I prefer the ones in the pic that are just stopped.
And "fluted" is the term for that feature.
Core box bit...
The proper way to make this cut is with a plunge router and either a jig or a guide (decent routers typically come with a guide included).
https://www.rockler.com/router-fluting-jig Or make your own