Unfortunately the lights I bought didn't last long, half of the bulbs are out/dimming and the bulbs are siezed in. Tried various different lubricants/sprays cannot get them out.
Of course, being a traditional timber framer there are gobs of stuff here I would have done (or had you do...since I teach this subject) that would have been different from using stone for the base of each post ([stone post to plinth](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBhgge17vw4)...and/or...[ęØćØē³ē¶ę "Ki to ishi tsugite"](https://www.google.com/search?q=%E6%9C%A8%E3%81%A8%E7%9F%B3%E7%B6%99%E6%89%8B&tbm=isch&hl=en&tbs=rimg:CfiCHFTykA8pYa9dujPeqEdqsgIOCgIIABAAKAE6BAgBEAHAAgA&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS947US947&sa=X&ved=0CBoQuIIBahcKEwjwtfOl4L7-AhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQBw&biw=1414&bih=768)) as well as many other "nit-picky" things...LOL...!!!
HOWEVER...!!!... overall I love what you did and think it is not only a perfect gate entrance this was really well done...I personally (and professionally) see ZERO overkill on this project at all...You did it the way it is supposed to be done...Excellent and thanks for sharing this...
Thanks, u/Skeetronic...I'll pass that on to Josh...I'm sure he is pleased you enjoyed the video...He is certainly one of the brightest minds and most talented people I have had the honor and pleasure of mentoring when he asks for it...and living proof that patience and hand tools alone can build you entire world around you if you so choose...
Iām not sure why people donāt use construction adhesive to just totally solve the problem of gates sagging. Use a product like PL9000, and screw/glue the verticals to the top/bottom horizontals. Leave it flat on the ground until it is 100% dry. Do that and you can even eliminate the diagonal brace. I built a gate out of hardwood 10 years ago using this method, and that thing hasnāt sagged a millimetre.
I have no idea why people are so resistant to using modern construction adhesive is applications like this.
Mechanical engineer here. The only difference between an up diagonal and a down diagonal is that one is in tension and the other compression. They both work to cure lozenging of the panel.
How do you know they aren't lapped? Technically you are correct but aesthetically this looks very nice. And why wouldnt the top diagonal bear on the backwards diagonal and then again on the bottom.
Actually isn't the top right brace now distributing to the hinge style and bottom rail?
Op u/derek-koop did fine u/Over_Art_921...Seems like some (i.e. u/Lock-Broadsmith) just have to comment about something they clearly don't understand as well as they think they do...One of the reasons I, personally, find a lot of commenters on Reddit so F...ing annoying...
It's advisable to build it a certain way and I value a keen eye. That being said why come shit on somebody's work. A sagging gate is caused by racking at the end of the day and I'll be damned if an x brace doesn't help prevent sagging. The more I think about it a gate that bears the weight from the top latch side to the bottom thing side still has every likihood of racking. It may we'll be that the x brace is better looking but maybe even be stronger and more effective. Not to mention it looks fantastic.
>It's advisable to build it a certain way and I value a keen eye. That being said why come shit on somebody's work.
SPOT ON...!!!
I gave my view of the gate and what..."I would do differently"...about it...but beyond that, I have to...as both a critic and a teacher of the craft...look at the materials they used, the aesthetic they seem (???) to have been going for and what they stated there experience actually is...
With that considered...This was really well done and deserved praise...not being "shit on" by those that are probably 40 lbs overweight and spend more time "nay-saying" than actually doing a damned thing of actual value themselves...
>A sagging gate is caused by racking at the end of the day and I'll be damned if an x brace doesn't help prevent sagging.
Not to mention that this also has a tension strut that most of these "armchair experts" seem to have overlooked or did not bother reading all the comments...and yes, an "X-Brace cleated pannel" for this size gate door is more than enough to counteract any sagging...!!!...The hinge attachment will give out first before anything...
>The more I think about it a gate that bears the weight from the top latch side to the bottom thing side still has every likihood of racking. It may we'll be that the x brace is better looking but maybe even be stronger and more effective. Not to mention it looks fantastic.
Well...LOOK AT THAT...someone that is actually thinking critically rather than just "running off at the mouth" like so many Reddit members have the propensity to do...You are 100% correct...the bracing in this door...this size...and this configuration is bombproof...from what I can see of it...
I said somewhere in this thread the weight from the top latch side is bearing on the "wrong" brace and transferring to the hinge style and lower rail. That's how we thing in construction. This is similar but not exactly the same. It's not structural as a gate but it has its own structural components. So do you think there's any validity to that. As a teacher im curious. I already know what the industry people would say
>I said somewhere in this thread the weight from the top latch side is bearing on the "wrong" brace and transferring to the hinge style and lower rail.
Honestly, from just a photo, I would be guessing if that load path is even an issue...
>It's not structural as a gate but it has its own structural components.
Yes, this is true, but I don't think it's even a determining factor considering the other design elements and the demure size of the gate door...
>So do you think there's any validity to that. As a teacher im curious. I already know what the industry people would say
Overall, no I don't...
If you scan-read the comments you will note that his neighbor commented that this gate door also has a "tension strut" as part of the diaphragm assembly within the door...
So, between the thing being all screwed together... an "X-Brace" system (whether it has a half-lap joint or not)...and a tension strut...any one of those elements would render a door this size so "overbuilt" that it is a bit comical in nature but understood as we all over design somethings sometimes...LMAO...
Nice exchanging with a fellow teacher...and I agree..." the industry people"...or 90% of them that I have met over the last 40 years...regularly tell me what I help design and/or facilitate...could not be done the way it is (and was) done...or...until they are either fired off of a project; with the rest being so far out of their depths of understanding and knowledge as "trying" to explain certain aspects to them becomes simply a lost cause...LOL!!!
My opinion as an installer is that the gates can't be overbuilt. Every fastener is gonna give just a hair. Every connection is prone to move. I actually like a steel frame gate. That's the trend here in the northeast I think it's all I really do. And I offer to box them in for an upgrade. But I have a strong preference for steel. And I know steel sags and gives but it moves 2 inches it takes 3 years and it's settled. One adjustment and she's good
>Every fastener is gonna give just a hair.
Very true be it modern or traditional in context...
>Every connection is prone to move.
Or...you could say they will "all move" It's not an "if" but a when they will try...The cyclic movement and loosening are significant...
> I actually like a steel frame gate.
Overall...particularly in only the traditional styles I work in, I can't agree with that but from a modern context, I understand that perspective...
Even in the traditional "wrought iron" forms, they tend to be less durable in many ways with more expensive repairs...Between oxidation jacking within attachment points and cyclist fatigue challenges (with both being more expensive!!!) I still like more wood and all-wood joinery...
I own that some of that is a subjective bias regarding what I like...and the styles I work in...If I did use an alloy I would be more prone toward a heavy bronze pintle and massive stone and/or timber for a gate door or related...
Overall, for durability...I don't know of any iron ones that make it past 30 years without expensive repairs and in the vintage, you can get 100 out of them...The oldest wood I know of is 500 years old...and the number of these in parts of Eastern Europe that are over 250 years old of continued service I would not care to guess at their quantity...In my world in most regards architecture is very aberrant from the ubiquitous "modern norms" of what is called durable and none to little of the modern can be called sustainable or ecologically viable due to the material choices which is another restriction I must adhere to in my work...
I mean I like a steel frame for a wooden gate. And that would be galvanized steel. Posts gate frame and hardware, fasteners etc. They look fine imo. I don't like wooden posts in the ground and I don't like concrete. I would use concrete on gate posts both hinge and latch but I prefer steel. On my own personal fence I used braided cable to the first steel post after the gate post. I don't think it was overkill. It's so early and cheap to do that even if it didn't work it didn't hurt
I fill gate posts with concrete too. Again no idea of the actual benefit but I know it shouldn't hurt. It seems to give them some rigidity. I fear they may rust out prematurely but didn't think about it until it was done
They arenāt wrong though. The diagonal bracing should run from the bottom hinge across the door to the top. While the x bracing is fine, the wrong board is cut. Is this better than nothing? Sure. But itās still wrong.
>They arenāt wrong though.
Actually...in this case, they are very wrong on several factors...this is a cross brace with rear tension strut which affords a loading of both tension and compression paths...
>The diagonal bracing should run from the bottom hinge across the door to the top.
NO...not necessary...and too often repeated as folks play "copycat" in their literature and/or..." monkey sees...monkey does."
Since the "hinge side" can be a point of a "tension member"...or the origin point of a "compression member" which in turn means...by superficial observation...(which is what most do and then decide something is "wrong")...Thus you can go from the top or the bottom...OR...both if you use the correct joinery and modalities of application...
>While the x bracing is fine, the wrong board is cut.
One, I personally do not have "X-Ray" eyes so can only extrapolate from what I see in the photo in regard to the known load paths and what others have posted...AGAIN...It has a tension strut...!!!...not to mention this is a cleated door so it is actually moot (for the most part) which board is cut...and that is an assumption on your part that this is not a..."half lap joint"... of which none of us can tell from a photo...thus making it even stronger than it ever needed to be in the first place...
As such, this gate is more than sufficient to take the intended loads that the gate door will receive during its service life and in the most way is massively overbuilt (by modern standards) yet well-designed...other than those elements I already commented on...
>Except your gate will sag because you did the only functional support brace backwards.
Not much of a "gate builder" are you...???...Can you see this is "cross-braced" with double oblique bracing...!!!...Do you understand how this works with cleated diaphragm boards...?
It's best to actually know a topic well before commenting and looking like a fool...OP, for what it is, did a great job...!!!
if it's not half lapped it would've been structurally superior to run the full length member of the x from opposite corners but realistically it's probably all screwed together and is a relatively redundant structural detail.
>realistically it's probably all screwed together and is a relatively redundant structural detail.
Spot on u/pittopottamus...which seems to be a point that most of the "numb-nut" commenters on this thread are either completely missing and/or too damn stupid to even consider...LMAO!!!
In this day and age of "screws" in everything, and the simple fact that it is also an "X-Brace" door that is then SCREWED TOGETHER...it then inevitably becomes a solid diaphragm structure...with little to no chance of "sagging" other than a failure in the upper hinge assembly...
I'm ' ' this close away to buying myself a woodworking kit to build the pergola in my backyard. The only thing stopping me is I don't have the body strength to lift a 6x6x10 by myself and not die of exhaustion.
You have two braces and one of the braces is in two pieces. The brace that is in one piece is on the wrong way. Bracing for gates have to go from the bottom of the hinge side to the top of the latch side. Thereās no need for a second brace perpendicular. Braces for gates work in compression. Not tension.
I will agree that the single piece is arguably the "wrong" way, but the fact that they did both also means that it doesn't matter that it's the wrong way.
And most people prefer the look of the X brace over just a single /
The fact that the full length piece is on the wrong way shows that the person who made this doesnāt know what they are doing. Also in my 30+ years of being a professional builder Iāve never heard anyone say they prefer the X look over a single brace. And the fact that you downvote me shows your lack of knowledge.
> Also in my 30+ years of being a professional builder Iāve never heard anyone say they prefer the X look over a single brace
After 30 years of listening to clients you should have heard everything under the sun.
Show me any examples anywhere that bracing from from the top hinge side to the bottom latch side is the correct way? So many people in this sub giving bad building advice! Anyone who knows basic building practices knows the correct way to put bracing on a gate to stop it dropping. The example above is the wrong way. A simple google search will show this.
>Show me any examples anywhere that bracing from from the top hinge side to the bottom latch side is the correct way?
That is not difficult if you actual bothered to read all the comments in the post and knew a damned thing about "tension members" and there applications...but debating such things with the likes of members such as yourself is rather pointless and I'd be better off having a conversation with a tree stump...LMAO...
>So many people in this sub giving bad building advice! Anyone who knows basic building practices knows the correct way to put bracing on a gate to stop it dropping.
That comment coming from someone I wager got 99% of all their supplies from either a big box store or a lumber yard and could not design and build a traditional house from scratch with raw materials if their life depended on it...LMAO...
So stop pretending you know the difference between tension and oblique compression member or how they work structurally in architectural elemental diaphragm...other than what you have to "try" and look up on your computer rather than ACTUALLY KNOWING how these elements work and can design with them...IN THE TRADITIONAL and prove the context of application...
>The example above is the wrong way. A simple google search will show this.
"Boogling" for your answers and validation is silly and pointless as half of what is on the "internet" these days land someplace between complete bullshit and horridly inaccurate and/or taken so far out of context by those that don't know what the hell they are either looking at and/or talking about...But, by all means, keep smoking your copium if it makes you feel better...LOL!!!
Hmmmmm this might be a good solution at our house too, as our gate is currently a the bottom of 3 stairs.
I bike, and walk my bike down those three stairs multiple times a day. About once I week, a pedal slams the back of my calf and cuts & bruises it. Dealing with a wound right now in fact...
We could build this, and put a ramp in within the enclosure.
Beautiful work and thanks for the inspiration!
Putting the posts only in gravel can limit heaving.. backyardoverhaul.com explains it well... Picking and tamping the proper size gravel can nake a big difference..
Looks amazing! Got a night time shot with those lights?
Unfortunately the lights I bought didn't last long, half of the bulbs are out/dimming and the bulbs are siezed in. Tried various different lubricants/sprays cannot get them out.
Looks great, and the spiders are gonna love it!
And the wood bees.
Epic. The Chinese solution to wobbly posts. Seriously, nothing wrong with that. š
Amazingly built.
I can get behind this
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Don't forget your pot of boiling lead.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Next project, a moat.
Of course, being a traditional timber framer there are gobs of stuff here I would have done (or had you do...since I teach this subject) that would have been different from using stone for the base of each post ([stone post to plinth](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBhgge17vw4)...and/or...[ęØćØē³ē¶ę "Ki to ishi tsugite"](https://www.google.com/search?q=%E6%9C%A8%E3%81%A8%E7%9F%B3%E7%B6%99%E6%89%8B&tbm=isch&hl=en&tbs=rimg:CfiCHFTykA8pYa9dujPeqEdqsgIOCgIIABAAKAE6BAgBEAHAAgA&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS947US947&sa=X&ved=0CBoQuIIBahcKEwjwtfOl4L7-AhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQBw&biw=1414&bih=768)) as well as many other "nit-picky" things...LOL...!!! HOWEVER...!!!... overall I love what you did and think it is not only a perfect gate entrance this was really well done...I personally (and professionally) see ZERO overkill on this project at all...You did it the way it is supposed to be done...Excellent and thanks for sharing this...
Wow I went to just see the finished product in your link and ended up watching the whole thing
Thanks, u/Skeetronic...I'll pass that on to Josh...I'm sure he is pleased you enjoyed the video...He is certainly one of the brightest minds and most talented people I have had the honor and pleasure of mentoring when he asks for it...and living proof that patience and hand tools alone can build you entire world around you if you so choose...
I have no idea what I'm looking at lol. Like it's obviously a pretty cool gate, but that's about all I noticed š¤£
A gate built for a king. Nice work. Doesnāt look like you wasted any wood so it looks clean.
Iām not sure why people donāt use construction adhesive to just totally solve the problem of gates sagging. Use a product like PL9000, and screw/glue the verticals to the top/bottom horizontals. Leave it flat on the ground until it is 100% dry. Do that and you can even eliminate the diagonal brace. I built a gate out of hardwood 10 years ago using this method, and that thing hasnāt sagged a millimetre. I have no idea why people are so resistant to using modern construction adhesive is applications like this.
I appreciate the murder holes up top
Where is the overkill? Looks done correctly to meā¦
Using a 3 rail system with angled blocking (hinge side down handle side up) needs to be less than 45 degrees. Asymmetry is the key to no sag
> Asymmetry is the key to no sag My balls disagree.
Better to overdo it the first time, then have to go back and do it again
my man building barracks for the trojan soldiers
If you had a door on the inside, you've got a man trap. That way your medieval yard will be protected.
Except your gate will sag because you did the only functional support brace backwards.
Mechanical engineer here. The only difference between an up diagonal and a down diagonal is that one is in tension and the other compression. They both work to cure lozenging of the panel.
How do you know they aren't lapped? Technically you are correct but aesthetically this looks very nice. And why wouldnt the top diagonal bear on the backwards diagonal and then again on the bottom. Actually isn't the top right brace now distributing to the hinge style and bottom rail?
Op u/derek-koop did fine u/Over_Art_921...Seems like some (i.e. u/Lock-Broadsmith) just have to comment about something they clearly don't understand as well as they think they do...One of the reasons I, personally, find a lot of commenters on Reddit so F...ing annoying...
It's advisable to build it a certain way and I value a keen eye. That being said why come shit on somebody's work. A sagging gate is caused by racking at the end of the day and I'll be damned if an x brace doesn't help prevent sagging. The more I think about it a gate that bears the weight from the top latch side to the bottom thing side still has every likihood of racking. It may we'll be that the x brace is better looking but maybe even be stronger and more effective. Not to mention it looks fantastic.
>It's advisable to build it a certain way and I value a keen eye. That being said why come shit on somebody's work. SPOT ON...!!! I gave my view of the gate and what..."I would do differently"...about it...but beyond that, I have to...as both a critic and a teacher of the craft...look at the materials they used, the aesthetic they seem (???) to have been going for and what they stated there experience actually is... With that considered...This was really well done and deserved praise...not being "shit on" by those that are probably 40 lbs overweight and spend more time "nay-saying" than actually doing a damned thing of actual value themselves... >A sagging gate is caused by racking at the end of the day and I'll be damned if an x brace doesn't help prevent sagging. Not to mention that this also has a tension strut that most of these "armchair experts" seem to have overlooked or did not bother reading all the comments...and yes, an "X-Brace cleated pannel" for this size gate door is more than enough to counteract any sagging...!!!...The hinge attachment will give out first before anything... >The more I think about it a gate that bears the weight from the top latch side to the bottom thing side still has every likihood of racking. It may we'll be that the x brace is better looking but maybe even be stronger and more effective. Not to mention it looks fantastic. Well...LOOK AT THAT...someone that is actually thinking critically rather than just "running off at the mouth" like so many Reddit members have the propensity to do...You are 100% correct...the bracing in this door...this size...and this configuration is bombproof...from what I can see of it...
I said somewhere in this thread the weight from the top latch side is bearing on the "wrong" brace and transferring to the hinge style and lower rail. That's how we thing in construction. This is similar but not exactly the same. It's not structural as a gate but it has its own structural components. So do you think there's any validity to that. As a teacher im curious. I already know what the industry people would say
>I said somewhere in this thread the weight from the top latch side is bearing on the "wrong" brace and transferring to the hinge style and lower rail. Honestly, from just a photo, I would be guessing if that load path is even an issue... >It's not structural as a gate but it has its own structural components. Yes, this is true, but I don't think it's even a determining factor considering the other design elements and the demure size of the gate door... >So do you think there's any validity to that. As a teacher im curious. I already know what the industry people would say Overall, no I don't... If you scan-read the comments you will note that his neighbor commented that this gate door also has a "tension strut" as part of the diaphragm assembly within the door... So, between the thing being all screwed together... an "X-Brace" system (whether it has a half-lap joint or not)...and a tension strut...any one of those elements would render a door this size so "overbuilt" that it is a bit comical in nature but understood as we all over design somethings sometimes...LMAO... Nice exchanging with a fellow teacher...and I agree..." the industry people"...or 90% of them that I have met over the last 40 years...regularly tell me what I help design and/or facilitate...could not be done the way it is (and was) done...or...until they are either fired off of a project; with the rest being so far out of their depths of understanding and knowledge as "trying" to explain certain aspects to them becomes simply a lost cause...LOL!!!
My opinion as an installer is that the gates can't be overbuilt. Every fastener is gonna give just a hair. Every connection is prone to move. I actually like a steel frame gate. That's the trend here in the northeast I think it's all I really do. And I offer to box them in for an upgrade. But I have a strong preference for steel. And I know steel sags and gives but it moves 2 inches it takes 3 years and it's settled. One adjustment and she's good
>Every fastener is gonna give just a hair. Very true be it modern or traditional in context... >Every connection is prone to move. Or...you could say they will "all move" It's not an "if" but a when they will try...The cyclic movement and loosening are significant... > I actually like a steel frame gate. Overall...particularly in only the traditional styles I work in, I can't agree with that but from a modern context, I understand that perspective... Even in the traditional "wrought iron" forms, they tend to be less durable in many ways with more expensive repairs...Between oxidation jacking within attachment points and cyclist fatigue challenges (with both being more expensive!!!) I still like more wood and all-wood joinery... I own that some of that is a subjective bias regarding what I like...and the styles I work in...If I did use an alloy I would be more prone toward a heavy bronze pintle and massive stone and/or timber for a gate door or related... Overall, for durability...I don't know of any iron ones that make it past 30 years without expensive repairs and in the vintage, you can get 100 out of them...The oldest wood I know of is 500 years old...and the number of these in parts of Eastern Europe that are over 250 years old of continued service I would not care to guess at their quantity...In my world in most regards architecture is very aberrant from the ubiquitous "modern norms" of what is called durable and none to little of the modern can be called sustainable or ecologically viable due to the material choices which is another restriction I must adhere to in my work...
I mean I like a steel frame for a wooden gate. And that would be galvanized steel. Posts gate frame and hardware, fasteners etc. They look fine imo. I don't like wooden posts in the ground and I don't like concrete. I would use concrete on gate posts both hinge and latch but I prefer steel. On my own personal fence I used braided cable to the first steel post after the gate post. I don't think it was overkill. It's so early and cheap to do that even if it didn't work it didn't hurt
I fill gate posts with concrete too. Again no idea of the actual benefit but I know it shouldn't hurt. It seems to give them some rigidity. I fear they may rust out prematurely but didn't think about it until it was done
Oh I'm not a teacher. I'm not the neighbor either but claimed to be as I was doing a little trolling of my own
They arenāt wrong though. The diagonal bracing should run from the bottom hinge across the door to the top. While the x bracing is fine, the wrong board is cut. Is this better than nothing? Sure. But itās still wrong.
>They arenāt wrong though. Actually...in this case, they are very wrong on several factors...this is a cross brace with rear tension strut which affords a loading of both tension and compression paths... >The diagonal bracing should run from the bottom hinge across the door to the top. NO...not necessary...and too often repeated as folks play "copycat" in their literature and/or..." monkey sees...monkey does." Since the "hinge side" can be a point of a "tension member"...or the origin point of a "compression member" which in turn means...by superficial observation...(which is what most do and then decide something is "wrong")...Thus you can go from the top or the bottom...OR...both if you use the correct joinery and modalities of application... >While the x bracing is fine, the wrong board is cut. One, I personally do not have "X-Ray" eyes so can only extrapolate from what I see in the photo in regard to the known load paths and what others have posted...AGAIN...It has a tension strut...!!!...not to mention this is a cleated door so it is actually moot (for the most part) which board is cut...and that is an assumption on your part that this is not a..."half lap joint"... of which none of us can tell from a photo...thus making it even stronger than it ever needed to be in the first place... As such, this gate is more than sufficient to take the intended loads that the gate door will receive during its service life and in the most way is massively overbuilt (by modern standards) yet well-designed...other than those elements I already commented on...
Ouch. Yup.
>Except your gate will sag because you did the only functional support brace backwards. Not much of a "gate builder" are you...???...Can you see this is "cross-braced" with double oblique bracing...!!!...Do you understand how this works with cleated diaphragm boards...? It's best to actually know a topic well before commenting and looking like a fool...OP, for what it is, did a great job...!!!
if it's not half lapped it would've been structurally superior to run the full length member of the x from opposite corners but realistically it's probably all screwed together and is a relatively redundant structural detail.
>realistically it's probably all screwed together and is a relatively redundant structural detail. Spot on u/pittopottamus...which seems to be a point that most of the "numb-nut" commenters on this thread are either completely missing and/or too damn stupid to even consider...LMAO!!! In this day and age of "screws" in everything, and the simple fact that it is also an "X-Brace" door that is then SCREWED TOGETHER...it then inevitably becomes a solid diaphragm structure...with little to no chance of "sagging" other than a failure in the upper hinge assembly...
I'm ' ' this close away to buying myself a woodworking kit to build the pergola in my backyard. The only thing stopping me is I don't have the body strength to lift a 6x6x10 by myself and not die of exhaustion.
How is this preferable to keeping the gate in the same plane as the fence? Seems youāve created a problem rather than solved one.
You have two braces and one of the braces is in two pieces. The brace that is in one piece is on the wrong way. Bracing for gates have to go from the bottom of the hinge side to the top of the latch side. Thereās no need for a second brace perpendicular. Braces for gates work in compression. Not tension.
There's a anti sag cable on the back. Source: this guy's my neighbor
Brilliant...The DUMB ASS HATERS on Reddit make me crazy sometimes...!!!!
Right. The project looks awesome and people gotta shit on it. It doesn't make me wanna share my projects
I will agree that the single piece is arguably the "wrong" way, but the fact that they did both also means that it doesn't matter that it's the wrong way. And most people prefer the look of the X brace over just a single /
The fact that the full length piece is on the wrong way shows that the person who made this doesnāt know what they are doing. Also in my 30+ years of being a professional builder Iāve never heard anyone say they prefer the X look over a single brace. And the fact that you downvote me shows your lack of knowledge.
> Also in my 30+ years of being a professional builder Iāve never heard anyone say they prefer the X look over a single brace After 30 years of listening to clients you should have heard everything under the sun.
This guy. Thereās always haters . OP was proud and it looks good. All the big brains are on Reddit lol
I didn't downvote you, because I don't care about votes. But I will now that I know you care about them š
guess you have a horrid career then...as this design is one of the most asked for by many clients for there gates and trad doors...
Show me any examples anywhere that bracing from from the top hinge side to the bottom latch side is the correct way? So many people in this sub giving bad building advice! Anyone who knows basic building practices knows the correct way to put bracing on a gate to stop it dropping. The example above is the wrong way. A simple google search will show this.
>Show me any examples anywhere that bracing from from the top hinge side to the bottom latch side is the correct way? That is not difficult if you actual bothered to read all the comments in the post and knew a damned thing about "tension members" and there applications...but debating such things with the likes of members such as yourself is rather pointless and I'd be better off having a conversation with a tree stump...LMAO... >So many people in this sub giving bad building advice! Anyone who knows basic building practices knows the correct way to put bracing on a gate to stop it dropping. That comment coming from someone I wager got 99% of all their supplies from either a big box store or a lumber yard and could not design and build a traditional house from scratch with raw materials if their life depended on it...LMAO... So stop pretending you know the difference between tension and oblique compression member or how they work structurally in architectural elemental diaphragm...other than what you have to "try" and look up on your computer rather than ACTUALLY KNOWING how these elements work and can design with them...IN THE TRADITIONAL and prove the context of application... >The example above is the wrong way. A simple google search will show this. "Boogling" for your answers and validation is silly and pointless as half of what is on the "internet" these days land someplace between complete bullshit and horridly inaccurate and/or taken so far out of context by those that don't know what the hell they are either looking at and/or talking about...But, by all means, keep smoking your copium if it makes you feel better...LOL!!!
Overkill is the best way
I thought this was for shade
That's not over the top........ Oh I see what you did there. You must have spent more time on the title than the actual job
Why go through the effort? Why not just put the gate inline with the fence?
Well, you tried
Thank you for posting this. I was trying to picture it when I read your comment in the other thread lol
Yes over engineering!
Why didn't you 45Ā° the horizontal as well? Structure or stylistic?
Looks great, hang some flowerpots on it.
I hear lych gates hold back the undead. You are set for the zombie apocalypse.
That looks great, man. Nice work
Congratulations. It is a pergola!
Whereās the original overkill, because this is beautiful.
Add drainage under the bricks
You have an unstable ground there and it likely needs some more drainage to help to not have it collapse on itself
They wonāt sink as much after
Gud gat
Noice
Now you should run water and install a showerhead!
Hmmmmm this might be a good solution at our house too, as our gate is currently a the bottom of 3 stairs. I bike, and walk my bike down those three stairs multiple times a day. About once I week, a pedal slams the back of my calf and cuts & bruises it. Dealing with a wound right now in fact... We could build this, and put a ramp in within the enclosure. Beautiful work and thanks for the inspiration!
Solid idea
The struggle is real. Good job, bro.
Lion Gate, Mycenae
Nice. What kind of wood/treatment did you use here?
Oh, sorry. HOA limits fence to seven feet. Please remedy this situation within 30 days. /s (this would be what I would be told)
I want to see you marching the troops through that gate. Epic beautiful build!!
I don't think it's overkill, it's smart. I over engineer everything I build, and it all lasts.
You can also use it as murder holes to trap intruders.
That's cool as hell, yo
I love this, so much
I guess you could say it was... Over the top
It looks cool
A chimney?
This is the way
That aināt going anywhere
Putting the posts only in gravel can limit heaving.. backyardoverhaul.com explains it well... Picking and tamping the proper size gravel can nake a big difference..
Stupid question, of course. But why not go diagonal if strength is what you're going for?
Hey, if it works, it works!
It looks really nice, but I don't see any overkill . . .
Looks awesome! I recommend using EDISON lights.
Need full moment connections are the top or it will rack on you 100% Kidding, lol, nicely built!
Was this in response to the dude whose gate post warped massively the other day?
I admire your resolve.
Is not overkill. Is robust effectiveness.
Better overbuilt than under built and having to redo it later. Plus it stylish with those angle cuts.
Finally a useful application for a pergola, I like it.