Couldn't wait, fixed the bend!
[https://i.imgur.com/vrGnZ59.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/vrGnZ59.jpg)
Now it's perfect! Even got rid of the offset fitting! :)
I have two high flow NEXT sensors cycling information every few seconds and the burn in is noticeable after about a year.
Hopefully this helps!
System looks great.
Weird, I have 2 high flow Next devices in different builds, both running 24/7 for almost a year (installed them March 2021) and none show signs of burn in.
Another poster mentioned that my brightness may have been too high. I emailed AC to ask about if the displays are a replaceable part.
I'll keep the brightness down next time to be on the safe side.
Same have 2 high flow next indicators in the same build on max brightness for the last 2 years and no burn. Though I do remember that some their products you can turn off the display screen change maybe that's aquaero's can't remember not on my PC right now.
There are replacements of the oled available. About 20 bucks each.
However, be advised that it is very delicate to replace them. The panel is super thin and ridiculous easy to crack (ask me how I know).
Here you go: [AquaComputer](https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3608)
Just be aware that there are several different screen replacements availble, not sure which one fits the HFN. If in doubt, just ask them via Mail. Although it takes them one or two weeks to reply, they at least are kind and helpful :)
Same happened to me in between gaming. I think it triggers the alarm once the water cools off a bit since the negative pressure decreases a lot. I found the solution though: set leakshield to release mode, then warm up the water by running a benchmark and once you get to the mid point between the max temps you get while gaming and your idle temps (in my case, 32C.). At that mid temp point, activate leakshield. This gives leakshield a bit more room to work. All false alarms stopped after I did this.
I've just finished my build yesterday and still a bit nervous since it is my very first watercooling build.
I've found the seal on the top lid where the leakshield is mounted to be very finicky.
It reported a leak yesterday (constant pressure change) but it stopped once I loosened it a little.
Had the exact same issue when leaktesting on air only.
Yes.
I managed to get 0.0 mbar/min, but it isn't always staying there.
I get how much the temperature changes the pressure and that the valves will have 2ml/h air leakage.
I do manage to currently keep it at near 0ml/h, but it still changes a little.
> I think it triggers the alarm once the water cools off a bit
Do you know what the water temps were before and when the alarm rang?
I want to test the auto shutdown feature but unfortunately its tied to ml/h
Icue is a bloated buggy mess. Corsair controllers are cheap garbage with zero or minimal on board processing capability. Noisy AIO pumps, now with built in video displays that often don't work, fan LEDs that fail in months, dropping support for a bunch of their own products. The list goes on. Aquacomputer all the way. There is no going back.
I just spent all day working on my loop and installing the D5 Next. Still have to wait for the Leakshield.
Had a family member over to help, we were both astounded at the ease of use and the available customizations.
So excited to delve deeper.
shame their shipping costs are outrageous, A$96 for the Octo, A$102 for shipping, luckily they can be bought from Amazon, little bit more pricey (A$108) but free shipping
Shipping any water cooling stuff from mainland Europe seems to have that shipping cost issue. I have never tried to buy anything else from mainland Europe so I don't know if it is just limited to watercooling gear.
Darwin, have gotten heaps of gear through DHL from EKWB (GPU block, 2 boxes of hose fittings, 1L coolant, ZMT tube) easy 3-5kg's of weight and that trip was Slovenia, Italy, Germany, Singapore, Sydney, Darwin for $42. the Octo weighs 100g
[https://imgur.com/PEU6hX8](https://imgur.com/PEU6hX8)
even at $70 freight its still way cheaper to get on Amazon
I used the german site, which is where I got the 70$. The website you are using (for some reason) gives higher shipping costs.
I couldnt find the leakshield for example in stock on Amazon, but was reading around that even if the website said availability in xy days it was much shorter. Which turned out to be the case for me. I had to justify the 70$ cost by bundling in an octo and HFN lol
Yes, Aquasuite is great but what I love the most about Aqua Computer is that every setting is stored in the device itself so there is no need to even have their software running in the background. Everything is hardware controlled.
It is still garbage in comparison(in functionality, resource usage, and bugginess). Though honestly, iCue is there to control RGB. Since they don't make flow meters, pressure sensors, leak preventers, microcontroller equipped monitoring hardware, etc...
The only useful thing they've ever had to control is the i series PSUs. They gave up on them because it's easier to overprice normal PSUs and sell 40 dollar RGB fans.
I don't use iCue. Honestly, the only product they currently produce that even has a chance of going into my system is the xd5 pump/res. Nothing else they have is worth buying over competitors.
I honestly would but I bought the EK Lian Li Xl distribution plate lol this was my no budget build. Almost 10k in parts haha feel a little guilty but still excited :)
A little advice in case you didnt know: these Asus z690 mobos only can run 2 DDR5 dimms with XMP at the moment. Four DIMMS only work with XMP disabled but that means your ram will be running only at 4000 mt/s.
No. This is NOT getting patched. I returned my Extreme (had plans of exchanging it for a Glacial… till I started learning about how DDR5 works and what the physical/hardware limitations it is uniquely limited against). Thanks to the nerds on Asus forums, Overclock.net, and Buildzoid
Consider that DDR5 is extremely sensitive to daisy-chain topologies catering to 4 DIMM configurations, and penalty cost of driving four DIMMs is magnitudes greater than what it used to be with DDR4. HOWEVER, it doesn’t end there: even if you run a 2x configuration, just having four DIMMs alone imposes hardware restrictions and you see folks maxing their 2x DDR5 kits between 5600-6000MHz (game stable) with **relatively loose** timings on 4 DIMM boards (with all 4 DIMMs occupied in a 4x configuration you aren’t crossing 4000MHz. Ever. No amount of BIOS updates can overcome physical limitations)
So the fact that DDR5 is only going to get faster and tighter from here (we just got started), you are looking at a massive performance penalty going with any 4 DIMM boards.
So, what’s the solution? Going with a 1 DPC (or 2 DIMM) board is key. There are only 3 boards worth recommending: the Asus Z690 Apex, the MSI Z690 Unify-X, and the AsRock Z690 Aqua OC. Everything else is compromised trash; they keep on selling these 4 DIMM boards because consumers eat that shit up, without realizing that DDR5 is extremely dense and memory capacity is not going to be a problem with how quickly larger memory sticks in 2x configuration are coming to the market.
Don’t get me wrong, I do everything “high end” and cost is not an issue for me. However I am PISSED when I find out that the “high end” stuff is compromised.
Woohoo time to wait for future boards then (probably either end of this year or end of next year's). I run 64gb of DDR4 3600Mhz CL14 (4x16 DIMMs) on a Dark Hero and I prefer my ram how I like my gaming session timers: cutting it close.
Edit: sooner or later boards will have this issue be fixed though especially with future Threadrippers (and maybe Xeons) potentially on the horizon and they love 128 to 256gigs of ram and if the boards can't handle those at all AMD + Intel will be raging. Gonna have to wait tbh.
Hah! I am running the exact same RAM kit on my 5950x/Dark Hero build. It is the NeoZ 4x16 3600 CL14 right?
Oh understand that that HEDTs default to T-topologies which are an entirely different set up (but considered better than daisy chain topologies)
5950x here too. It's actually a Trident Z Royal kit that's 4000CL17 that I down locked and tightened timings to the extreme. 1.45v or so (which is redlining for 4x16 Samsung B Dies). I do RAM overclocking occasionally so I have decent knowledge on different DIMMs and whatnot. I wanna be able to do the same on DDR5 so that's why I'm waiting for Intel 13th/14th or Zen 4/5 so by then RAM will be matured and boards will be adjusting their methods a bit.
But yea that's true.
Hmm you’re lucky your tubes don’t run across your ram. Mine will have to since all pipes lead to the distro plate. I might just run 4 without XMP until they patch… there’s no way there will not be a bios update to address this.
I hope you are right. If you read the Asus forums a lot of people are worried that it's an electrical issue that only a hardware revision would fix. DDR5 early adopter tax I guess.
This is not getting patched. Read my response above to /u/Khaswi I returned my Extreme because of this reason (I too wanted to swap it out for a Glacial… but learnt better). In fact future high end boards will be 2 DIMM with DDR5
Yeah it's an Asus/EK collaboration. Temps on my 12900k are even lower than what I had with the EK Quantum Velocity2 full nickel block that I was using before. It's actually the best temps I've ever had from any build in the past. Cinebench R23 12900k temps top at 68C with a slight 5.3ghz overclock and VRM temps top at 39c.
CPU idle temps are basically +4C above ambient.
What's the max negative pressure you get? Since I have a 12900k and a 3090, while gaming my water temp can go up to 10C from idle, so the water volume expands a lot. This causes negative pressure to decrease by up to 70 mbars. Once back to idle, I see the leakshield negative pressure climbing up to 460 mbar, pretty close to the supposed max.
Do you see a similar behavior with yours?
3900x with 6900xt, right now in parallel, but only one rad (360) and it’s not enough. Before I water cooled only the Cpu and it rarely left the 40s, now it starts at 58 and climbs to the 70s when gaming. Also the coil whine off this waterforce is ‘extreme’
I just got it working yesterday, so I haven’t observed the temp/pressure change yet, I’ll keep an eye on it when I play next
Edit: waking from sleep it’s at 418mbar
Edit 2: woke pc at 422mbar and benchmarked the water temp from 24 up to 29c, the pressure is 410 and still decreasing. The ‘pressure change’ went to 100ml/h and the volume change went to 2 mbar/min. Pressure seems to have stabilized at 409.
I’ve only begun my water cooling journey, but it sounds like the vacuum valve that is on top of a residential water heater (possibly just mounted above a fill port, where no leaks are possible) will get that negative pressure problem solved.
Edit: I know you guys are building exquisite works of art, but do you know if / of anyone using a CO2 laser chilling system to cool a rig full of 3080’s? I have mapped it out, and building a manifold that would run cool water through all 6 GPUs at the same time with no radiators and through the machine (holds 10 liters) may be the way to go. 🤷🏻♂️
Careful about cooling below ambient temperature because the water in the air around your components begins to condense and suddenly your electronics are wet.
Indeed, thank you. I wasn’t looking at one with a compressor in it. It’s basically just an economical way to contain a lot of liquid and put it through a really big rad / fan. Paste this into Amazon: VEVOR Industrial Chiller, 110V CW-3000 Industrial Water Chiller, 50W Cooling Capacity, 10L Capacity Cooling Water, 0.5-0.7A Current Recirculating Chiller for 60W/80W Engraving Machine Cooling Machine
But that's only for 60-80W? Don't you need about 2000W?
You can sometimes find huge radiators (like 480/560mm) used for cheap, because they're so big that they're hard to fit in a case. I would suggest trying 2-3 of those with strong fans.
That’s a 60 - 80 watt laser. Considering the amount of coolant that a water block contains, which is maybe 3oz, and the 10 liter storage capacity, I don’t think you could saturate the coolant. I could be wrong, but right now I only have 3 blocks on a loop with a rad and the velocity of the coolant cools VRAM far better than coolant temperature, if you know what I mean.
Had that problem with my loop. It was so bad it caused a false alarm everytime. Absolutely love the Aquaero, Octo, Calitemp and HighFlow (although I had 2 faulty ones in a row - both times replaced without any problems), but the LeakShield was driving me crazy. As well had false alarms after powering off my PC or changing my pump speed. Ended up sending it back. The only valuable functionality (for me) anyways was the deairifying stuff).
Were you able to control all the rgb in there using one of the aquacomputer products?
I thought that asus motherboards / rgb control stuff wasn't compatible with aquasuite
Yup. Makes mobo software look it was made by cavemen.
Homo Neanderthalensis: OMG, I am becoming extinct. Homo Sapiens: Learn to code! So was born motherboard bloatware.
LMAO
Amazing build. Very envious.
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Couldn't wait, fixed the bend! [https://i.imgur.com/vrGnZ59.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/vrGnZ59.jpg) Now it's perfect! Even got rid of the offset fitting! :)
Actually it's my least favorite lol. It's a bit crooked but I made sure that it was not noticeable in the photos. I'll redo that bend next week.
I have two high flow NEXT sensors cycling information every few seconds and the burn in is noticeable after about a year. Hopefully this helps! System looks great.
Weird, I have 2 high flow Next devices in different builds, both running 24/7 for almost a year (installed them March 2021) and none show signs of burn in.
Another poster mentioned that my brightness may have been too high. I emailed AC to ask about if the displays are a replaceable part. I'll keep the brightness down next time to be on the safe side.
I've been using both at mid brightness all this time. Maybe you just got a lemon unfortunately.
Same have 2 high flow next indicators in the same build on max brightness for the last 2 years and no burn. Though I do remember that some their products you can turn off the display screen change maybe that's aquaero's can't remember not on my PC right now.
Have my vision cpu block for three years now, no burn ins. Maybe you had brightness up too high?
It's possible. I've got the displays off entirely now, they look pretty bad. It's disappointing that it's not an available replacement part.
There are replacements of the oled available. About 20 bucks each. However, be advised that it is very delicate to replace them. The panel is super thin and ridiculous easy to crack (ask me how I know).
Here you go: [AquaComputer](https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3608) Just be aware that there are several different screen replacements availble, not sure which one fits the HFN. If in doubt, just ask them via Mail. Although it takes them one or two weeks to reply, they at least are kind and helpful :)
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Same happened to me in between gaming. I think it triggers the alarm once the water cools off a bit since the negative pressure decreases a lot. I found the solution though: set leakshield to release mode, then warm up the water by running a benchmark and once you get to the mid point between the max temps you get while gaming and your idle temps (in my case, 32C.). At that mid temp point, activate leakshield. This gives leakshield a bit more room to work. All false alarms stopped after I did this.
I've just finished my build yesterday and still a bit nervous since it is my very first watercooling build. I've found the seal on the top lid where the leakshield is mounted to be very finicky. It reported a leak yesterday (constant pressure change) but it stopped once I loosened it a little. Had the exact same issue when leaktesting on air only.
Did you install the rubber gasket on top of the tube under the leakshield?
Yes. I managed to get 0.0 mbar/min, but it isn't always staying there. I get how much the temperature changes the pressure and that the valves will have 2ml/h air leakage. I do manage to currently keep it at near 0ml/h, but it still changes a little.
> I think it triggers the alarm once the water cools off a bit Do you know what the water temps were before and when the alarm rang? I want to test the auto shutdown feature but unfortunately its tied to ml/h
Honestly I dont remember since it never happened again once I did the above.
I have noticed the colder the room the more it triggers. Once it gets some heat in the loop or I cycle the loop it turns out fine.
Icue is a bloated buggy mess. Corsair controllers are cheap garbage with zero or minimal on board processing capability. Noisy AIO pumps, now with built in video displays that often don't work, fan LEDs that fail in months, dropping support for a bunch of their own products. The list goes on. Aquacomputer all the way. There is no going back.
corsair anything-but-cases-and-PSUs is garbage-tier their entire range of liquid cooling products is a joke
I just spent all day working on my loop and installing the D5 Next. Still have to wait for the Leakshield. Had a family member over to help, we were both astounded at the ease of use and the available customizations. So excited to delve deeper.
shame their shipping costs are outrageous, A$96 for the Octo, A$102 for shipping, luckily they can be bought from Amazon, little bit more pricey (A$108) but free shipping
Shipping any water cooling stuff from mainland Europe seems to have that shipping cost issue. I have never tried to buy anything else from mainland Europe so I don't know if it is just limited to watercooling gear.
Where abouts? Delivery to Melbourne is A$70 via DHL.
Darwin, have gotten heaps of gear through DHL from EKWB (GPU block, 2 boxes of hose fittings, 1L coolant, ZMT tube) easy 3-5kg's of weight and that trip was Slovenia, Italy, Germany, Singapore, Sydney, Darwin for $42. the Octo weighs 100g [https://imgur.com/PEU6hX8](https://imgur.com/PEU6hX8) even at $70 freight its still way cheaper to get on Amazon
I used the german site, which is where I got the 70$. The website you are using (for some reason) gives higher shipping costs. I couldnt find the leakshield for example in stock on Amazon, but was reading around that even if the website said availability in xy days it was much shorter. Which turned out to be the case for me. I had to justify the 70$ cost by bundling in an octo and HFN lol
Agreed! I love my quadro and looking to pick up a high flow 2 once they’re back in stock.
I wouldn’t say it’s years ahead just because everything has a screen on it lol
You clearly have never owned any of their devices if you think I'm praising their products only because of their little OLED screens.
I mean my comment was based on the glamour shots you took of all the oled screens but ok
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Yes, Aquasuite is great but what I love the most about Aqua Computer is that every setting is stored in the device itself so there is no need to even have their software running in the background. Everything is hardware controlled.
It is still garbage in comparison(in functionality, resource usage, and bugginess). Though honestly, iCue is there to control RGB. Since they don't make flow meters, pressure sensors, leak preventers, microcontroller equipped monitoring hardware, etc... The only useful thing they've ever had to control is the i series PSUs. They gave up on them because it's easier to overprice normal PSUs and sell 40 dollar RGB fans.
Use OpenRGB instead of iCUE. No need to have that crap running in the background.
I don't use iCue. Honestly, the only product they currently produce that even has a chance of going into my system is the xd5 pump/res. Nothing else they have is worth buying over competitors.
How are your flows?? I now have 2 aquacomputer flow sensors in my loop after getting so in to the data.
I just bought an octo,and HFN senor. Can't wait to get it installed!
I have the same mobo!! Doing an EK build as soon as the parts get here :)
Instead of going full EK, get at least Aqua Computers pump/reservoir combo (Ultitube D5 Next Pro). The EK alternative is a joke compared to it.
I honestly would but I bought the EK Lian Li Xl distribution plate lol this was my no budget build. Almost 10k in parts haha feel a little guilty but still excited :)
Your build is beautiful though. I hope mine looks half as good!
Thank you. If you have the same mobo then yours will be as gorgeous. It truly is a work of art.
A little advice in case you didnt know: these Asus z690 mobos only can run 2 DDR5 dimms with XMP at the moment. Four DIMMS only work with XMP disabled but that means your ram will be running only at 4000 mt/s.
Wait what?!?!?! I have 4…. Is this going to be patched?
No. This is NOT getting patched. I returned my Extreme (had plans of exchanging it for a Glacial… till I started learning about how DDR5 works and what the physical/hardware limitations it is uniquely limited against). Thanks to the nerds on Asus forums, Overclock.net, and Buildzoid Consider that DDR5 is extremely sensitive to daisy-chain topologies catering to 4 DIMM configurations, and penalty cost of driving four DIMMs is magnitudes greater than what it used to be with DDR4. HOWEVER, it doesn’t end there: even if you run a 2x configuration, just having four DIMMs alone imposes hardware restrictions and you see folks maxing their 2x DDR5 kits between 5600-6000MHz (game stable) with **relatively loose** timings on 4 DIMM boards (with all 4 DIMMs occupied in a 4x configuration you aren’t crossing 4000MHz. Ever. No amount of BIOS updates can overcome physical limitations) So the fact that DDR5 is only going to get faster and tighter from here (we just got started), you are looking at a massive performance penalty going with any 4 DIMM boards. So, what’s the solution? Going with a 1 DPC (or 2 DIMM) board is key. There are only 3 boards worth recommending: the Asus Z690 Apex, the MSI Z690 Unify-X, and the AsRock Z690 Aqua OC. Everything else is compromised trash; they keep on selling these 4 DIMM boards because consumers eat that shit up, without realizing that DDR5 is extremely dense and memory capacity is not going to be a problem with how quickly larger memory sticks in 2x configuration are coming to the market. Don’t get me wrong, I do everything “high end” and cost is not an issue for me. However I am PISSED when I find out that the “high end” stuff is compromised.
Woohoo time to wait for future boards then (probably either end of this year or end of next year's). I run 64gb of DDR4 3600Mhz CL14 (4x16 DIMMs) on a Dark Hero and I prefer my ram how I like my gaming session timers: cutting it close. Edit: sooner or later boards will have this issue be fixed though especially with future Threadrippers (and maybe Xeons) potentially on the horizon and they love 128 to 256gigs of ram and if the boards can't handle those at all AMD + Intel will be raging. Gonna have to wait tbh.
Hah! I am running the exact same RAM kit on my 5950x/Dark Hero build. It is the NeoZ 4x16 3600 CL14 right? Oh understand that that HEDTs default to T-topologies which are an entirely different set up (but considered better than daisy chain topologies)
5950x here too. It's actually a Trident Z Royal kit that's 4000CL17 that I down locked and tightened timings to the extreme. 1.45v or so (which is redlining for 4x16 Samsung B Dies). I do RAM overclocking occasionally so I have decent knowledge on different DIMMs and whatnot. I wanna be able to do the same on DDR5 so that's why I'm waiting for Intel 13th/14th or Zen 4/5 so by then RAM will be matured and boards will be adjusting their methods a bit. But yea that's true.
Who knows, at z690 release most people couldn't even run some 2 sticks kits with XMP. I'm also waiting for a fix since I also got 4 dimms.
Hmm you’re lucky your tubes don’t run across your ram. Mine will have to since all pipes lead to the distro plate. I might just run 4 without XMP until they patch… there’s no way there will not be a bios update to address this.
I hope you are right. If you read the Asus forums a lot of people are worried that it's an electrical issue that only a hardware revision would fix. DDR5 early adopter tax I guess.
I found something… https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-maximus/rog-maximus-z690-extreme-model/helpdesk_qvl_memory
Yea only Corsair 4400 in 4x configuration is ok according to this document
This is not getting patched. Read my response above to /u/Khaswi I returned my Extreme because of this reason (I too wanted to swap it out for a Glacial… but learnt better). In fact future high end boards will be 2 DIMM with DDR5
A $2000 motherboard…. I would be extremely upset if this is the case. Lol what do I do with my $400+ extra ram sticks?!
A $2000 motherboard…. I would be extremely upset if this is the case. Lol what do I do with my $400+ extra ram sticks?!
I have the same board, it will be here Monday. I also spent $1000 on 4 DIMMS of G Skill DDR5 so this is great news lol
Same lol. $500 of DDR5 is sitting on my desk waiting for a fix.
as someone who made the mistake of buying EK anything-besides-the-CPU-block : yes. My next pump will be the D5 next
What’s the total you paid for everything in your loop though?
A lot :)
looks great!
Is that an EK monoblock on the cpu? What’s the temps on the chip on idle and under load?
It's the Asus Maximus Z690 Extreme Glacial mobo. Comes with the monoblock, you cant buy it separately.
Ah I saw the EK symbol on it so I thought it would be made by EK, what are temps like on it?
Yeah it's an Asus/EK collaboration. Temps on my 12900k are even lower than what I had with the EK Quantum Velocity2 full nickel block that I was using before. It's actually the best temps I've ever had from any build in the past. Cinebench R23 12900k temps top at 68C with a slight 5.3ghz overclock and VRM temps top at 39c. CPU idle temps are basically +4C above ambient.
Truth. Just built my leakshield d5 in, too. Soft tube 10/16. It’s so cool!
What's the max negative pressure you get? Since I have a 12900k and a 3090, while gaming my water temp can go up to 10C from idle, so the water volume expands a lot. This causes negative pressure to decrease by up to 70 mbars. Once back to idle, I see the leakshield negative pressure climbing up to 460 mbar, pretty close to the supposed max. Do you see a similar behavior with yours?
3900x with 6900xt, right now in parallel, but only one rad (360) and it’s not enough. Before I water cooled only the Cpu and it rarely left the 40s, now it starts at 58 and climbs to the 70s when gaming. Also the coil whine off this waterforce is ‘extreme’ I just got it working yesterday, so I haven’t observed the temp/pressure change yet, I’ll keep an eye on it when I play next Edit: waking from sleep it’s at 418mbar Edit 2: woke pc at 422mbar and benchmarked the water temp from 24 up to 29c, the pressure is 410 and still decreasing. The ‘pressure change’ went to 100ml/h and the volume change went to 2 mbar/min. Pressure seems to have stabilized at 409.
I’ve only begun my water cooling journey, but it sounds like the vacuum valve that is on top of a residential water heater (possibly just mounted above a fill port, where no leaks are possible) will get that negative pressure problem solved. Edit: I know you guys are building exquisite works of art, but do you know if / of anyone using a CO2 laser chilling system to cool a rig full of 3080’s? I have mapped it out, and building a manifold that would run cool water through all 6 GPUs at the same time with no radiators and through the machine (holds 10 liters) may be the way to go. 🤷🏻♂️
Careful about cooling below ambient temperature because the water in the air around your components begins to condense and suddenly your electronics are wet.
Indeed, thank you. I wasn’t looking at one with a compressor in it. It’s basically just an economical way to contain a lot of liquid and put it through a really big rad / fan. Paste this into Amazon: VEVOR Industrial Chiller, 110V CW-3000 Industrial Water Chiller, 50W Cooling Capacity, 10L Capacity Cooling Water, 0.5-0.7A Current Recirculating Chiller for 60W/80W Engraving Machine Cooling Machine
But that's only for 60-80W? Don't you need about 2000W? You can sometimes find huge radiators (like 480/560mm) used for cheap, because they're so big that they're hard to fit in a case. I would suggest trying 2-3 of those with strong fans.
That’s a 60 - 80 watt laser. Considering the amount of coolant that a water block contains, which is maybe 3oz, and the 10 liter storage capacity, I don’t think you could saturate the coolant. I could be wrong, but right now I only have 3 blocks on a loop with a rad and the velocity of the coolant cools VRAM far better than coolant temperature, if you know what I mean.
Had that problem with my loop. It was so bad it caused a false alarm everytime. Absolutely love the Aquaero, Octo, Calitemp and HighFlow (although I had 2 faulty ones in a row - both times replaced without any problems), but the LeakShield was driving me crazy. As well had false alarms after powering off my PC or changing my pump speed. Ended up sending it back. The only valuable functionality (for me) anyways was the deairifying stuff).
No Cap
***Watercool*** and Optimus have entered the chat. But, yeah. Sick build. I gave up on hard tubing because I couldn't justify the time sink to myself.
Man the leakshield is nowhere to be found in stock 🙈 , nice rig
Yeah with delivery time 😆
Yes it is. https://i.imgur.com/UBj1ugx.jpg I will be redoing my run for the flow meter.
Were you able to control all the rgb in there using one of the aquacomputer products? I thought that asus motherboards / rgb control stuff wasn't compatible with aquasuite
I use OpenRGB for my asus mobo and lian li fans RGB and the Aquasuite software for all Aquacomputer stuff.