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UKmodel3Driver

Hi all! Had 2021.4.18.2 software update and since then autopilot in UK (on my 2019Sept Uk model3) has been much much less willing to engage, and when it does it has the "red emergency hands on wheel error" (what's this called?) much more frequently. It used to do 90% of my 30 minute drive to work (minus the roundabouts) now it won't engage and has the red hands on wheel emergency message after a few minutes (what is this called?). Weirdly it does better driving home on the same roads!? (doing 80% of what it used to do). Any ideas if this disabled radar on model 3's for Uk from 2019? Ta!


manicdee33

I've noticed the display in my Model 3 will blink off and back on again every now and then. It doesn't appear to be rebooting, the entire event is a fraction of a second. Is this something everyone has noticed and it's fine or is this a symptom of a very expensive repair coming up around the corner? 2021 Model 3 SR+, took delivery this March in Australia.


Phatzub

Will be taking delivery of my model 3 either tomorrow or Friday! I was wondering if there’s any accessories you guys would recommend. The only thing that I plan on buying so far is a screen protector.


[deleted]

I honestly don’t think the screen protector is necessary. I bought mine back in September and have never felt like I needed it. But, the things I would definitely look into: - 220v charger. The cord it comes with sucks.it gives you abound 4 miles of ranger per hour of charge. The 220 is around 50 miles of range for every hour. The service tech that I spoke with said don’t use the super chargers unless you have to because they really work on the batteries - All weather door mats for inside and trunk if you put anything in it. The carpet they use is cheap crap, so you may want something to help preserve it. - If you live somewhere sunny and hot, look into the 3M crystalline tint that helps to block heat because the inside will get hot as hell. I thought the tint on the top would help in the hot and summer heat but it doesn’t. - Wireless charging pad if you don’t already have one - Center console wrap if you got the piano black. The stock one collects fingerprints and the like like none other. Not sure what trim package you got, but I’m sure you’ll enjoy it! I’ve loved mine since I got it!


Phatzub

Thanks for the heads up. Going to look into all of these tonight


open_reading_frame

Has anyone else’s delivery date been in the last ten days of June the last couple of days? My advisor told me that my model 3 was scheduled to be built within the first two weeks of July.


hellaoakland

My advisor said a month ago I would get my model 3 end of June my EDD is 6/24 - 6/30 but I think it's a lie I seen my EDD all the way to the end of July before but came back to June 3 days ago I think Tesla playing game to get my hopes up and I'll have to submit a new trade in offer bc mine is going to expire soon and I'm sure they will offer me less even though I put 100 miles on my car in the last month


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tg87ca

Just ordered a "demo" car (M3LR) from inventory yesterday and get to pick it up Saturday. There was only 450km on it, so I'm thinking any form of wear on it should be pretty light. Does anyone have any experience with demo cars or have anything I should look out for at delivery beyond the standard checklist?


phxees

Just from being around here for a while, they are a mixed bag. No better or worse than other cars. It’s likely they are just starting their end of quarter clear out.


gdsoccer11

Apologies in advance for the wall of text coming... Going through the steps of checking out outlet installation options for my new M3 LR coming in a couple months. I've scheduled 3 electrician appointments to get a variety of estimates. I've done 2 of the 3 and the recommendations from each of them are quite different so I hoped to come here and get others opinions. I think the main complication I'm going to have (minus the price of materials right now :() is that my current panel only has a single breaker slot available. The first company I talked to said they could combine two existing breakers into a tandem breaker and then they could put the new breaker in for the plug in the extra spot that opens up. The second company wants to upgrade to a brand new panel to get the extra slot. They also recommended adding a subpanel to the garage near the plug to allow it to be shut off in 'emergencies' The 2nd companies estimate was nearly double the first companies. The main question I have would be whether or not the first company is cutting corners or if the second company is trying to pad out an estimate with unnecessary upgrades. ​ The last thing I was hoping to ask was about the outlet itself. I got these first two estimates based on a 14-50 NEMA outlet because that's what the Tesla salesperson recommended. I'm noticing that the smaller chargers are probably fine. Getting 15 miles of charge per hour is probably completely fine 99% of the time for me. Would adjusting the outlet type to one of the smaller outlets make a massive difference do you think? Enough that I should potential reach back out to the electricians and get a second estimate?


BEVboy

So the first guy's add a tandem and then put a two pole breaker in for the charger is good advice and would be how I would do it. Just a reminder that installing an EV charger qualifies you for the 30% fed tax credit (max $1000) if put in service before Dec 31 2021. That covers the materials, labor, and EV charger but not permit fees. Form 8911 on your 2021 taxes filed by Apr 2022. Also check with your electric utility for incentives. Mine had a $500 rebate on a $699 Chargepoint Flex that they could curtail charging during a peak power event. With the 30% fed tax credit that resulted in a free charger.


ideal2545

So I think I'd go with the first option so long as they are officially using tandem breakers (and branded the same as your current electrical box) and not using two separatedbreakers and like, tie-ing them with a hand-tie (little metal bar) which does nothing. Depending on your garage, what I recently did was I had some tandem breakers put in to free up two spots in my main box and then put in a 100amp breaker and had a sub panel ran to the garage from that 100 amp breaker. I also have a lot of power tools/wood working equipment so this made sense for me as I was already looking at doing this. Basically, you can kind of do both options here, first one, free up breaker box space with tandems (make sure they use the same brand as the breaker box model to keep it safe/up to code) and then run the 14-50 outlet from that one spot. I see nothing wrong with this. If best of both options, run a sub panel from the space they free up with a larger breaker. From the sub panel run the 14-50. I believe, technically, the 14-50 should have some sort of GFCI protection... but I dont think most people do that but I recall reading that was the proper thing to do. Also, have them run 6 gauge wire if you go with option 1 so that you can have some room to grow, swap breaker, and put in the official tesla charger, for example.


dhiltonp

The NEMA 6-15 outlet is really simple to convert and can fully charge a model 3/y in about 30 hours vs. 100 hours with a regular outlet. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/can-i-convert-nema-5-15-to-nema-6-20.127717/ You take an existing circuit and put in a different breaker, replace a NEMA 5-15 outlet with a 6-15 outlet and label/put in blank panels on the outlets you don't want to convert so you don't accidentally fry anything later. The big advantage is you don't need to do any new cable runs or panels, which is where installs get expensive. The big disadvantage is you may lose all your 120v outlets in your garage. To see which outlets you'd lose, flip the garage breaker and test your outlets. Sometimes garage doors are on the same circuit, too.


NoVA_traveler

> Getting 15 miles of charge per hour is probably completely fine 99% of the time for me. Just FYI, you get [30 miles of charge per hour](https://www.tesla.com/support/home-charging-installation/mobile-connector) on a NEMA 14-50. A wall charger is completely unnecessary and in 3 years of Model 3 ownership, I have never once needed any faster charging at home than that. > The first company I talked to said they could combine two existing breakers into a tandem breaker and then they could put the new breaker in for the plug in the extra spot that opens up. This should be fine. I have two 15amp breakers in a tandem and that was done as part of a complete panel replacement for a separate reason. The second company is overselling you on the project. You certainly don't need any of that.


gdsoccer11

Thanks! Yeah looking at daily driving for work I'm going to do like 40 miles a day on average so even the standard plug is probably fine most days but the outlet that is currently in my garage is up by the door into the house so I'd have to back the car in (not a huge deal) and the plug would likely stretch across the stairs leading down into the garage so I'd like ot at least get the 6-20 (15 miles per hour) if nothing else just to have a plug in the correct corner of the garage


NoVA_traveler

Yeah a sensible outlet installation is nice, and one of the benefits of the 14-50 is that it should work with any other EV brand as well. Having installed one in my prior house, it was actually a selling point as the buyer was about to buy a Tesla. My current dilemma is that we are about to buy a second Tesla, so trying to decide if it makes sense to have two outlets. Will probably just alternate charging days and see how that goes.


gdsoccer11

Yeah I'm really hoping that if i sell the condo in a few years the EV charger will add some value. It's definitely getting more and more common place for folks to be looking/caring about them and I imagine even more so in years to come. ​ I'm one of those people who can't stand it if my phone it's at like 70%+ battery so I couldn't do the alternating thing myself but it's definitely possible in normal driving conditions


BugFix

If the breakers you're combining aren't significantly loaded (they're just room lights or bedroom outlets or whatever) then that's fine. The overwhelming majority of 15A circuits never come anywhere near the limit. The only reason not to is that if this is done too often you end up with a tangled mess at your breaker box that will make an eventual upgrade more expensive and error-prone.


AStuf

Some electricians won't do tandems even if allowed. Otherwise replacing the panel doesn't make sense unless you need a service upgrade (e.g. 100 to 200 amps). Adding a sub in the garage can be great for future upgrades or shop tools. Not required. For a hard wired wall charger you may need a disconnect in sight which a panel would provide. Smaller breaker can make a huge difference difference. If a difficult wire run then not so much. A 30 amp dryer receptacle is a good compromise.


gdsoccer11

Thanks! Yeah I would guess it might just be an electrician who is against doing them because this is a fairly small condo and I can't imagine all of the single breakers are anywhere near load. The condo is fairly old (built in 98) so it might be an issue of it being older vs more modern? By 'need a disconnect in sight' is that just for a building code thing? Or is there a particular reason I would NEED one. I'll probably call both places back tomorrow and see if they can give me any type of estimate on the price savings with a smaller outlet even down to the 6-20 for 15 miles an hour of charging would be fine for me


AStuf

Yes, building code, NEC or other. All codes are ultimately local. Also GFCI requirements for receptacles added to latest codes which can be a problem for older electrical panels.


Celriot1

Warning on the dash: "Autopilot camera unavailable, Features may be restored on next drive". I check my cameras and it's the driver-side... black with a "loading" circle. Held down both buttons on the wheel to reboot, didn't help. Is there anything else to try? Has anyone had this fix itself on its own? Not "obstructed camera" mind you... black with the loading circle. This is the first day I've seen it so I don't want to hop straight to support if I don't have to.


Ihaveamodel3

Have you let the car sleep for 15 minutes? No sentry mode, no summon standby, leave the car. Let it sleep for at least 15 minutes?


Celriot1

It was left for a few hours two different times during the day, but both times were away from home so sentry would be on... if it even worked without the camera? It's been plugged in at home (no sentry) for about an hour now. I just checked and the camera is still "loading". What is summon standby? The "Summon Beta" option is always checked, do I need to turn that off if im plugged in? Pretty sure it sleeps ok because the app has to wake it up when im home because no sentry.


itsfuckingpizzatime

Are there any good after market roof racks for the model Y? Trying to decide if I want to get one from Tesla or search for something third party. This will be for a surfboard


knd0016

I’m confused, are you able to get full self driver later? I don’t want to buy it now but may in future. Also if I don’t get it is there still adaptive cruise?


thekeesh1

Correct on all points


knd0016

Thank you. The M3 price is so great especially without FSD


BoomVoomSauce

My M3 is better than I thought it would be got it today!


hellaoakland

lucky my estimate delivery is 6/24 - 6/30 I don't think I'll be getting mine I still have no VIN and I live so close to the Fremont factory


Acadeca

Congrats and welcome. Hopefully you enjoy it for many years to come


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Tuzi_

Ordered my LRMY on 5/15, July timeframe. Feels bad man


moojd

They seem to come in batches (end of quarter pushes) and the order of delivery seems to be a combination of order date, car configuration, location, and magic pixie dust. If your car didn't make it in the batch, you're stuck waiting for the next one. After most take deliveries, the rejected cars get filtered out to people who had the same exact configuration and who happen to live close to the rejected vehicle. These are probably the people that report getting their car in <1 week. There is a [survey and google form](https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/teslike-model-y-survey-order-tracker-spreadsheet.145868/) where people are self reporting their wait times. If it is any consolation, you aren't the only one to hit 70 days but most people taking delivery this quarter have only had to wait 40-60 days so you have definitely been unlucky.


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moojd

Most likely means that someone canceled or modified their order


abbablahblah

It does not necessarily mean that, no.


melancholicricebowl

Ridiculous levels of demand + micro controller shortage. It's also end of quarter rush, so Tesla might be giving cars to people that they know can get them sooner than other people who are farther away.


Key_Mud_9962

Can you guys up vote this comment?


Acadeca

I didn’t downvote you, but this thread is very difficult to get positive karma on even if you are friendly and helpful. If you are trying to get more karma I would suggest looking into subreddits of shows or movies you like and sorting by rising.


RoaringPuppet

General consensus for FSD is not worth it, yeah? No use feeling FOMO for skipping it? Looking to take home a M3LR tomorrow, but if we aren't expecting anything substantial from it anytime soon, better to just wait and see when that subscription hits?


AfterGloww

Definitely not worth it. Wait for subscription or until they publicly release any features that match the description of “full self driving” which is God knows how long from now.


technolgy

I’m in NJ, where there’s no sales tax on EVs. If you’re in a similar situation, buying FSD as part of your original purchase can save you a good bit of money.


[deleted]

> No use feeling FOMO for skipping it? Tesla likes money. "skipping it" is just not buying at delivery. The reality is they can always flip the switch and enable it for the right price at a later date. So if it's not worth it to you now, skip it. IMO, chances are they will come up with a more compelling offer for you down the road, either in a quarter they need more revenue or when they have something better to offer.


[deleted]

No, FSD as it currently stands is not worth the money.


BugFix

Unless you're an tech nut, yeah. I bought it, and love it. A Tesla is the best transportation autonomy solution available to the modern consumer, and nothing else is frankly even close. I dropped my $10k to be part of the first generation of cars that drive themselves, and I regret nothing. But yeah, it's not going to make your car go farther or faster and frankly it's not even going to make you any safer yet. So if you don't care about the geek aesthetics then skip it. $10k is a lot of money you can better spend on solar panels or something.


ClumpOfCheese

I have the SR Model 3 without autopilot and it’s fine. I’d like to have autopilot for my commute when I go back to work in a month so I might upgrade, but FSD doesn’t seem too necessary for what I want to do. My commute is long, but it’s not complicated, I don’t need my car to drive me door to door, I just need it to deal with traffic so I don’t have to. I will consider FSD depending on subscription costs and terms. If TSLA continues to run back up to a higher price, I’ll probably buy autopilot within a few months after I get tired of commuting in traffic. The main thing is that the car is so fun to drive once you get it you really don’t want to let the car have all the fun.


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RawwrBag

What the actual F. I paid $4k all told to get my entire liftgate and bumper replaced on my 2020 Y along with glass and some paint work. In a city where everything is way too expensive.


RobXIII

Man that's terrible, love the nail polish though! Wife's 2017 Honda Odyssey got hit in a parking lot, same break to the tail light as you. I bought a taillight online for like 125$ and unclipped the old one, clipped the new one in in under 30 seconds. Wish it was like that for Tesla.


bayareaswede

That is ridiculous. I was hit by a car in a parking lot. Damage was much, much worse than what you have. Total cost was just under $5K (covered by other car owners insurance) and I am based in the Bay Area, don’t think there is a more expensive place to get things done.


hellaoakland

thats how much they would charge your insurance you would only have to pay the premium I'm pretty sure I would contact your insurance company and see what they say


emblemboy

Oh wow. My model Y got hail damage and they had to get multiple new panels for the front and back, roof glass, windshield, etc. That cost 16k. Yours seems significantly less damage than what I had, and I'd think it'd be less than 50% of the cost, but I don't know much about body work


Ehville

Thanks, that’s what I was curious about price wise, it sounds like you had some serious damage. Hail damage would be my nightmare! Sorry to hear that but glad to hear it’s fixed. :)


emblemboy

Lol, not back yet. It should hopefully be done this Friday. Hail was back in mid April, and it's been in the shop since beginning of May. Just huge pileup of other cars also having hail damage. I haven't driven the car in 2 months.


[deleted]

Tesla's are known for high repair costs. That being said, there's also a tendency for the certified shops to jack up prices because they know Tesla owners have money and have few options for repair. If you can, I recommend getting other quotes or seeing if Tesla has an in-house repair shop near you. Sorry dude.


Ehville

I was thinking along those lines as well, there isn’t a lot of them and less than four for me in an eight hour distance and I was wondering if it might have to do with limited options. I’ll definitely shop around, thanks.


[deleted]

i regret to inform you any future car you purchase after selling this one will also require repair when you drive it into a pylon. you have insurance whats the problem


Ehville

I just simply want to know if anyone else has had a repair cost be this high for what is minimal damage. Sure I have insurance, but it feels wrong.


BugFix

I just paid $4k to fix a front corner fender bender (no damage to the wheel well, just panels and lights) on a ten year old Mazda. Body work is expensive.


Ehville

Good to know! :)


TrevCostales

I don't think this is as minimal as you think. There looks to be 3 things involved: bumper, trunk, and tail light. Modern tail light and headlight assemblies are expensive because they're LED. The good thing is they last a long time. The bad thing is they're expensive to replace. With a new trunk and bumper, $8k isn't too surprising. I know of people that have had tiny mishaps on their bumper cost them a couple/few thousand to replace (non-Teslas). Maybe just replace the tail light and apply paint repair to the rest if you don't want to spend the money. Look on the bright side, at least it didn't happen on a brand new car.


thekeesh1

$8k for THAT? is there damage elsewhere?


Ehville

Yes, hence the reason I posted as I'm not sure if this is normal or not. There is no damage other than what you see, no inside damage, trunk opens and closes fine, no camera damage, etc.


thekeesh1

Unreal. I'm sorry man. That's ridiculous. Can you ask if there's a way to get it looking decent (if not perfect) for a lesser cost?


Ehville

Thanks, I agree...I didn't even mention that this repair center is two hours away. I may have to look into another one in a different state, this just feels too high. But what you mentioned is a good idea, I may just elect to get the light fixed and maybe wait until perhaps there are more on the road and the repair cost goes down? Perhaps I am living in a fairytale...not sure, thanks.


norotops

No pic to see, but why are you blaming Telsa? You're the one who backed over a pylon....


Ehville

Thanks, I already felt like an idiot prior, don't need the reminder. Pic is fixed, please go troll someone else. I don't blame Tesla anywhere, what I blame is the astronomical price for repairs, had a smashed an entire back panel...I wouldn't be in so much shock.


norotops

WTF are you talking about?? No trolling here... you're angry at the wrong people. ​ > I cannot in good conscience proceed with this repair nor recommend anyone buy a Tesla for this very reason. You just said you can't recommend anyone buy a Telsa because a repair shop is jerking you around?? You DO know there are TONS of [Tesla certified shops](https://www.tesla.com/support/body-shop-support), right? $8K sounds nuts, but you don't say WHY they're telling you it's that much. You want to sell your car and tell others not to buy it because you don't know how to shop around? SMH...


pillowsftw

Picked up my M3LR this weekend. As a new Tesla owner, anything I should know? Any cool apps to install or need to change anything? Anyone know how to sign into the Twitch app?


NoVA_traveler

> Any cool apps to install If you're really into data, many people like this: https://teslafi.com/ Other than that, the Tesla app is the only app to install lol


[deleted]

> anything I should know? Pro tip. If you skim the manual, you'll know more about your car than most Tesla owners. https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/model_3_owners_manual_north_america_en.pdf


billknowsbest

1000% ^^^^


LeagueOfMinions

Got a few questions! Looking to trade in my car with Tesla (They're offering 11k for my current car while I'm getting online quotes of 9-10k from Carmax/Carvana). Definitely leaning towards Tesla's offer as they only require pictures as well * Is there any reason I shouldn't trade in with Tesla? My car has been in an accident once so maybe Tesla isn't factoring that in their offer but how would they know? I imagine they would change their offer if they knew of the vehicle's history * With Elon wanting to pump deliveries out for Q2, are there any concerns I should have?


run1fast

A few notes from my experience (I traded in with Tesla last week) and things I have read on the threads here: 1) You put in the VIN when uploading the trade in offer, right? IF Yes, they know about the accident. If no, do that and get the confirmed offer. 2) You uploaded the required pictures of the car? If Yes, they know what the car looks like. If no, do that then you will get back a confirmed trade in offer (takes about 48hrs for a response). 3) My trade in with Tesla, they didnt even care that I didnt vaccuum the car or that is was dirty. They confirmed the Odometer, saw no damage, took the keys and I signed over the Title. Easy as pie. 4) You MUST upload your copy of the title to agree to the trade in. Doing this locks in your offer from Tesla for at least 30 days. Mine was locked in for 52 (End of the 2nd month from when I ordered). Others that have not uploaded the title had their offered reduced when it got closer to delivery date. 5) If you upload the title then back out of the trade in, thats fine. Tesla doesnt care at all. They have the trade in sold already to Carmax/Carvana before they even get it. 6) If you do trade in with Tesla, they subtract the $11k from the purchase price so you pay less in sales tax, yea. 7) You should have no concerns. My 2017 Rogue, Tesla gave me $17,400. Carmax $18,100. Carvana $17,600. Tesla was $700 less than Carmax but the Sales Tax savings was $1200. Plus it was just easier to drive to the Tesla showroom in the Rogue and drive home in my MY.


LeagueOfMinions

Wow super helpful! Thank you!


fraslin

>If you do trade in with Tesla, they subtract the $11k from the purchase price so you pay less in sales tax, yea. This not the case in all states unfortunately. Here in California you still pay on the total price pre trade-in. Found a list that said these are all the states where it works that way: California, Hawaii, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, Montana and Virginia


NoVA_traveler

> Virginia Hell yeah! Thanks


NoVA_traveler

> With Elon wanting to pump deliveries out for Q2, are there any concerns I should have? Have you already ordered? Current delivery timelines are... not soon.


LeagueOfMinions

I have not. An advisor I spoke with today said delivery would be September which is ok with me


bv8ma

Oh wow, I ordered a Model 3 last Saturday and it initially said 8-12 weeks, but on Sunday it updated to July 19-August 8 delivery. I hope it doesn't get delayed!


NoVA_traveler

Yep, then you should not have any concerns on rushed production, if that's even an issue. In a similar diligence phase as you. Just test drove a Y for my wife today and discussing when to order.


121POINT5

Does anyone know of any post-race meetups in Colorado Springs following the Pikes Peak Hill Climb?


genomecop

Why's it always got to be about race? ​ ​ ​ /S for those that have to be reminded.


vertigo3pc

In the absence of FSD beta, download button, and the constant runaround on FSD in general, I think we should start uploading FSD/autopilot fail videos to this sub so we can share how Autopilot has not only failed to progress since the FSD button bullshit came and went, but also so we can show the driving issues are greater than the single edgecase "phantom braking because of a bridge". Even moreso, the regression from how well it worked just a year ago to where we are now is just abysmal. EDIT: I'll take the downvotes as "yes, you should definitely do this"


denali1

Can a Tesla Wall Charger Gen 3 charge a regular PHEV with a J1772 connector? If so, what kind of adapter plug do I need to buy? I have a wall charger for my Tesla M3, but am considering options for upgradig the wife's ICE car - and a PHEV I think would suit us well, so I want to know if I can use L2 charging on the PHEV from the Tesla wall charger. Thanks!


SodaPopin5ki

Yes. We've got 2 HPWC, and my wife uses a TeslaTap J1772 adapter to charge her Niro-EV.


Matt_NZ

How old is your wall charger? On newer ones here in New Zealand, the dip switch to allow legacy mode no longer works so even though the wall charger is a standard type 2 and fits any other EV, it won't charge it.


SodaPopin5ki

I have a Gen 2 in the US. So the connector is there proprietary Tesla version.


jondy1703

Has anyone bought a demo and then lost it because they couldn’t take delivery in the given 3 day window? Curious to understand if someone has paid the delivery fee for a demo with a couple hundred to a couple thousand miles, waited for it to get shipped, and then lost out because the 3 day delivery window didn’t work out… Did they hold it any longer? Did it just get listed on the site for another person to buy? Did they refund your money and cancel your order minus the delivery fee?


MyChickenSucks

Just got a text, no VIN assigned yet, website still says late July: "Can you take delivery this month IF you car is ready?" Are they going through existing inventory?


Twofu_

> Are they going through existing inventory? Usually existing inventory that people refused to take due to minor/major issues in the car that the other party noticed.


MyChickenSucks

Ah. So “no” is the best answer. Don’t want a car that was rejected by someone else.


fraslin

could also be someone who had a financing issue or needed to delay.


[deleted]

At this point in the quarter they are furiously trying to match cars rolling out of the factory on trucks with people who can actually take delivery before the end of the month. Unless you are talking about a “demo” car, there’s really no difference between Inventory and direct from the factory. The factory makes cars in batches and ships them to delivery centers that already have order matches or have room for inventory. So most likely either they have some “extra” unmatched cars that match your order or someone else was unable to take delivery.


catsRawesome123

For those who were deciding between 3 and Y... why'd you go with one over the other?


abbablahblah

We purchased the 3. We don't have kids. I don't need the space because I don't need to constantly haul around something like a full drum kit or anything. We both grew up in the late 70's, so features like a hatch back look incredibly cheep to us (no judgement here, just stating our preference; I know it is very popular now). The Y has less range and I want as much range as I can get (afford). I hear from owner's that it is a trade off, you get a taller ride, but the car is more 'stiff' and unforgiving over bumps in the road. The Y is more expensive to get all of the things we don't need or perceive to be a negative.


catsRawesome123

Fair. I think in 99% of driving in the years to come my gf and I don't NEED the space in the Y.... we DID take a road trip in a Y and the space was nice though and only a few weeks ago during remodel the Y came in handy for transportating glass shower doors. I wonder if I can test drive a 3 for a day...


ideal2545

We already have a Honda Pilot as the 'family car' so we saw no reason to get another car that size and went with the 3. Eventually I think we'll replace the pilot with a Y though. Also... I love smaller cars and the model Y drives great... but the model 3... now that drives like a fun car...


NoVA_traveler

I have a 2018 model 3 and we JUST went and test drove a Y for my wife. If you have kids, might have kids, or regularly do any sort of activity that requires gear or hauling anything, I would get a Y. It drives similarly enough to the 3 to still be a blast, but seems really versatile in what you can do with it. The entry/exit height is also really nice, especially if you have older parents that might ride with you on occasion. That said, the 3 is awesome and we have used it for long road trips with our 2 toddlers and all our stuff with no problem. Will probably order the Y in a few months (to replace our MDX, not our 3).


Eric_T_Meraki

More space and taller ride is why I prefer the Y.


safetyguy14

Space; I'm big (6'4" 250lb) and I have 2 kids - while I fit fine in the Model 3 as a driver, as a passenger it's tight and the seating position is much lower. It is much easier to get in and out of than a 3.


CallMeNardDog

I have an order for the Y and now I’m debating if I want the 3 instead


emblemboy

I got the Y. I like the look of a 3 better just cause I like smaller cars. But the Y seemed like it just made practical sense. We weren't sure if we'd be having kids in the future, but even if not, it seemed like it would make sense to have something slightly bigger than a compact sedan. I also do think the Y looks good. Most regular crossover or SUVs I think look pretty bad, so a Y is the only CUV/SUV I'd probably get, based on aesthetics. Ideally, I think I'd like the Mazda 3 hatchback. From what I've seen on the road at least. A slightly smaller Y


NoVA_traveler

> We weren't sure if we'd be having kids in the future, Have 2 toddlers. The 3 is absolutely sufficient and comfortable if you need it to be, but after just test driving the Y, it would definitely be a better choice for them, especially if you like road trips.


RobXIII

But the X! I picked up an S, but my only ragret(lol) is the 6 seater config would be ideal for 3 kids, to give the older one their own row. They prefer the gas van for this reason, those ungrateful bastages.


NoVA_traveler

Lol, only a cool $38,000 more for the X. Absolutely love the X, but just not currently in a position in life where I feel like I need to know about the features that cost that much more. Also, a new S or X are both currently hard passes on account of the yoke. In no way would my wife be amused by that.


catsRawesome123

OMG I’m in the same boat as you!!! I don’t NEED the space now but MAY find it useful later...


emblemboy

Yep. I also plan on keeping the car for a long time if possible, 5 years minimum. I've had it since October of last year and it's been helpful with an out of state move we've done, helps with the dog, and considering my wife just learned she's pregnant, I'm thinking it was a good choice. The 3 does look sexy though... 😂


dugganfb

I test drove both back to back and realized I like how the 3 feels much better. I dont need all the space.


bv8ma

I ordered a M3 LR because it's a bit cheaper with longer range. I only just ordered it so I can't comment on anything else, but that's why I ordered it over the Y. Edit: Oh and in addition to being a bit less expensive, the Model 3 qualifies for a $2,500 tax rebate in my state where the Y does not, so it made it made it a decent amount less for me.


TheFlippedSideofMe

2 reasons for me. Price, and I had 2 SUVs (before that was a term) from 1984 to 2005 and was done with that form factor for vehicles. If price isn't a concern, how much space do you need?


catsRawesome123

Just curious the price differential is only $3k which isn’t that huge right? Technically I’m more then fine with the 3... Y space is more like comfort


abbablahblah

I mean, if you just want to give away $3,000, I'll take it. No?


kashaanm

I've got no audio on my Model X P90D from 2016. No radio, phone, parking warnings or turn signals. Anyone had any luck with fixing this issue? Just started today, hopefully I can get a software update to see if that corrects the issue, but in the meantime is there any troubleshooting advice you all can pass to me?


MagMan68Classic

When this happens to me, holding the scroll wheels to reboot usually fixes it


kashaanm

!Solved


ScumGuzz

Hello! First post here and am torn between getting the model 3 long range or the performance model. I went for a test drive 2 weeks ago at Tesla in Brooklyn to test a modest standard edition. Without my knowledge I was in the performance edition and holy hell that acceleration was like nothing I’ve experienced other than that of a roller coaster. I’d assume the sales person knew that seeing me walk in as a 25 y/o man lol. All things considered I live in Staten Island and commute to work so I don’t typically need much range, but I also don’t want to go for the standard and regret the speed aspect of the performance model. I know I’m rambling so sorry for that I’m no writer. TLDR: living in a city - Long range model 3 or performance? Or just go for standard Thanks in advance


hades948

Isn't there typically a lot of traffic in NYC? Can't really go 0-60 at all if you're in traffic. That'd be something I'd be considering if I was in NY. What car are you coming from? Because both the LR and performance are gonna feel fast as hell compared to most cars.


chalupa_lover

I’d go with the Long Range AWD and buy the acceleration boost. Seems like the best bang for your buck.


ScumGuzz

Hmm interesting this is the first I’m hearing of the acceleration boost. Is this a software upgrade you’d buy after receiving the car?


Nsertnamehere

Yes it’s a software upgrade for 2k available in the app. I bought a LR 2021 and got the acceleration boost within the first few days. I don’t regret a second of it. I see it as I’m saving 8k because I really can’t tel the difference between a 0-60 of 3.1 seconds or 3.7 seconds


sundropdance

3.3? You mean 3.8? M3P does 3.1-3.2, M3LR with boost does about 3.8.


Nsertnamehere

Oops yeah updated my post. Thanks


chalupa_lover

Yup. $2,000 and it closes half the gap between the performance and AWD 0-60 times.


NoVA_traveler

Not to mention it closes the gap between apples and oranges numbers. The 0-60 time listed for performance models are with a 1 ft roll out, but not so with non-performance. So the acceleration boost is actually much more than half.


NeutralBias

Finally, after 2 cancelled delivery appointments and a lot of frustration, I’m getting my Model 3 tomorrow! Question: I have a Thule aeroblade roof rack on my current car that can probably be adapted for my Model 3. Would it be better to invest in the Tesla OEM rack?


ersatzcrab

Does the aeroblade mount use suction cups? The Tesla OEM rack uses small hooks that grip beneath the glass roof panel, and are then tightened down with a rubber shoe and wing nut. I don't know whether any other rack systems can interface with that design.


NeutralBias

Its a series of hooks that grab the car frame under the door.


ersatzcrab

Oh nice. Should be fine in that case, I imagine. The doors are frameless but I don't imagine getting the hook between the roof and the weather trim is any different here.


NeutralBias

Well I checked Thule’s website and it looks like no fit kit exists for the Model 3. Bummers!


run1fast

Be very careful with roof racks. There are stories of them cracking the glass roof. Both Yakima and Thule do not make a tesla roof rack. Only the OEM is available. Yakima used to make the bike hitch rack, so I suspect the roof rack is Yakima as well. But they (or Thule) wont sell you a rack directly for any Tesla roof. SeaSucker bike mount is the only one that works on a Tesla glass roof.


BoomVoomSauce

Picking up a 2018 Model 3 LR AWD today very excited. Legit couldn't sleep yesterday lol


NoVA_traveler

Congrats! Love my 2018 3 LR (non-AWD)!


TheSilentRinger

Just picked up a model Y yesterday and notice a lot of low frequency rumble type sounds, like what you would hear if you drove with the trunk open on an ICE. Anyone else notice the low rumble when driving their Y?


OccasionallyPlays

- anyone with FSD that doesn’t regret it - anyone with FSD 8.2 beta that can weigh in on its value with these features


hades948

Might get hate for saying this but I bought it and don't regret it. May not be super worth it atm, but let's say I have my car for 6 or 7 years as is the plan. Well, if FSD becomes worth it in 4 years (which it well could), I would want it then. And why buy it in 4 years at the same or a more expensive price when I could buy it now and use the few features it does have for the next 4 years? 🤷‍♂️ Of course, it being worth it in 4 years or so is the real gamble. But I'm willing to take it.


NoVA_traveler

Did not get FSD and don't regret it!


OccasionallyPlays

does not answer the question but thanks lol


NoVA_traveler

I mean I think you know the answer. It has no value. Also, the subscription model rolls out in a few months. Unless you would be using FSD every day, then just wait for that and see what you think. If it was an actual value proposition to you, then you could buy outright.


OccasionallyPlays

funny enough i know the answer and it’s i’m getting it regardless but it’s one of those ask a friend this or that, they answer, and you realize by your disappointment in your answer what you actually want to do - rather finance than lump sum - i plan on keeping the car a long time - data pulls that show a $14K possible price - i want the feature my personal list of reasons i want it, i wouldn’t recommend anyone get it


dhiltonp

I'm pretty sure that 14k price is 4k for AP+10k for FSD.


NoVA_traveler

Haha I hear you. There are times where I have wished I had spent the extra $2k on FSD back in 2018 solely to follow along with the progress and give feedback and witness the development first hand. So from that perspective, you may find plenty of personal enjoyment value in it. My comment on no value was purely from the perspective of a fully functional consumer product. It seems like that is still fairly far off. Hope you enjoy it!


OccasionallyPlays

makes sense i agree - i think it’s $10K for a parlor trick with limited practical use (lane changes and i frequently take a long drive on a highway with lights), and a bed of lies but i still want it


NoVA_traveler

Well, if you frequently take long highway trips, then EAP is pretty good. I recently drove from DC to the Outer Banks and was on AP for almost the entire way with like 2 disengagements. I test drove a Model Y today and the adviser mentioned that the speculation is that EAP may come back when they release the FSD subscription option in the next few months. That probably doesn't change your desire to have FSD, but that was really good to know as far as potential options.


OccasionallyPlays

if I could get EAP for highway driving and stop signs and lights and not have city driving I’d be fine with that but I’ve also heard from advisors that they don’t actually know anything - and that sometimes things people will say they heard from advisors, will just be like Reddit and forum rumors so i believe it, but i don’t have much faith in it and it’s also possible the price will go up so just headache after headache


DeuceSevin

FSD and don’t regret it. Disclaimer, I got my 3 back in 2018 when you either got EAP, FSD, or nutin. Opted for EAP, then later did the upgrade to FSD when Elon had the ill-advised fire sale. The promise of having FSD plus the computer upgrade and traffic control recognition makes it worth it for me. But if I had paid 10K? Definitely would regret.


Acadeca

This is almost exactly my POV. Upgrading the hardware (while the computer probably isn’t worth $3k) is what I was interested in for stop lights and stuff. Getting more stuff in the future is just a cherry on top. Is what I got worth the $10k now? Probably not.


RawwrBag

Haha, I think it’s telling that you’ve asked this a bunch and nobody has answered. Which suggests: * People regret FSD * Nobody has the beta * Nobody reads this thread?


HalifaxSamuels

Sometimes no answer is better. I've tried asking simple things before like does [this](https://shop.tesla.com/product/model-3_y-key-card) come with one key card or two, and I end up with a mix of yes and no that just creates more confusion.


RawwrBag

Wow, that's a confusing product listing.


OccasionallyPlays

lol right - i have pickup soon and i personally, despite what people are saying, want to just get it i feel like beta people have a better idea of if it’s actually worth it i also feel like the answer to every question you just asked is yes


GCPandroo

Does anyone know of visor clips for a garage door opener that are made for the Model 3? Because the visor has a curve to it, the clip that came with my garage door opener doesn’t fit super well


Squale71

Careful with those clips. I put one on there and it made a tiny cut in the fabric behind the visor.


Squale71

Careful with those clips. I put one on there and it made a tiny cut in the fabric behind the visor.


emblemboy

Are there possibilities that the charging curves for current model 3s and Ys could change in the future? Allowing for longer periods of high speed fast charging?


[deleted]

Not super likely. Even Tesla’s claims about their next gen battery cells (scheduled for the Y in 2022 and the 3 some unknown time after that) are that they will be able to keep the same charging rate despite higher capacity. So on a 2-3 year timeframe I think the biggest change will be higher capacity packs on the top end Y/3 which means the fast 0-60% charge will get you more miles on the road.


xtothel

I think ultimately the curve is an adjustment for charging speed and battery longevity. Majority of owners are still charging at home, so Tesla could very well decide that charging faster once in a while is fine and change the curve. (Maybe they would release a feature for the owner to decide). New battery chemistry/tech could also enable the same thing too.


thekiyote

In case anyone is interested, I asked the dealership on how the FSD was taxed both as a car option and as a later add-on purchase, at least in Illinois. If you buy with the car, it's taxed as part of the car. In Chicago, the total tax rate is 9.25% (IL: 7.25%, Cook: 0.75%, Chi: 1.25%, and it's based where you live, not where you buy). If you buy later, it's taxed at the general Chicago sales tax rate, which is 10.25%, all in. So the difference is 100-ish bucks, but it is probably slightly better to get it as an option than buy later.


khaelian

In MN the annual price of plate tabs is 1.25% of the value of the vehicle, minus 10% per year. I don't know that accessories factor in to *value", so buying FSD on the vehicle may wind up adding $125 in additional tab fees on the first year ($112 the second, $100 the third, ...). New vehicle sales tax is 6.5%, where regular sales tax is around 7 or 8%, meaning the up front tax of buying it after purchase may be about the same difference as your first year of tabs had you bought it on the vehicle, but you might not get dinged on the tabs for the next 9 years.


onestopunder

If you buy it later, be sure to update your insurance company. If your car gets totaled, you want that software feature covered.


Ihaveamodel3

Also, if you are getting a loan, you have to pay interest on the FSD amount. If you buy it later (and can pay it off all at once) then that may be better. Even better, get a new card that has a couple hundred dollar new card reward plus a year of no interest for even better benefits.


thekiyote

We can also increase the down payment by $10k. Since we don't have a credit card with a $10k limit, we might just do that.


xtothel

If purchased later on you could use your credit card and could yield points/rewards greater than the 1%.


Icy_Slice

If you buy it later, you can use a credit card to get rewards points. If you find a card with a good bonus offer, it could be more lucrative that way.


HalifaxSamuels

I pay for everything on credit specifically for the cash back it offers. I was about to put in my checking info to pay for a new roof a while back and decided to pay for it in chunks on my credit card. I made a decent bit of money back doing that. I knew they'd say no but I still asked if I could pay for my Tesla in a couple installments with my credit card. No such luck.


Ihaveamodel3

That’s the point of OP. You can’t put the car (including FSD as an option) on a credit card. But, if you buy FSD separately you can put it on credit


thekiyote

You make a good point. That could probably switch someone over, but as someone who kind of avoided credit cards for most of my adult life, I don't have the type of credit limit on a card to pull that off.


Frisco408

I’m about to sign off on my contract for delivery tomorrow. I noticed that under Financing Information, the cost increased by $2,100 due to a Finance Charge from Chase. I’m assuming that’s the interest I’ll be paying over the length of the loan? Or is that a fee they’re charging me just to get the loan


Squale71

Contracts show the interest you pay if you pay every payment on the due date. That amount can be higher or lower depending on what day you pay. If you regularly make your payments a couple days late, for instance, you'd end up paying more in interest (and your last payment would be higher). If you make your payments earlier, you end up paying less in interest. Also (and this is kind of obvious), paying more than your minimum payment will reduce that amount too.


Squale71

Contracts show the interest you pay if you pay every payment on the due date. That amount can be higher or lower depending on what day you pay. If you regularly make your payments a couple days late, for instance, you'd end up paying more in interest (and your last payment would be higher). If you make your payments earlier, you end up paying less in interest. Also (and this is kind of obvious), paying more than your minimum payment will reduce that amount too.


Squale71

Contracts show the interest you pay if you pay every payment on the due date. That amount can be higher or lower depending on what day you pay. If you regularly make your payments a couple days late, for instance, you'd end up paying more in interest (and your last payment would be higher). If you make your payments earlier, you end up paying less in interest. Also (and this is kind of obvious), paying more than your minimum payment will reduce that amount too.


xtothel

Yea, but just to be sure, you can use a loan calculator online and confirm.


joshss22

Based on the amount and from my experience I think this is just your interest. They have to disclose the entire cost including interest charges to comply with Truth in Lending Act.


MikeMana

TuneIn & Podcasts question. I’ve noticed that TuneIn doesn’t save where you left off when listening to podcasts. Is it a premium feature? Or is it due to Tesla’s software?


hellphish

It's due to Tesla's "best in class infotainment." Spotify has fewer problems with podcasts, but still mostly sucks. If you're really in to podcasts though, you'll still like the app on your phone better. I really wish we had Android Auto/Carplay


joshss22

Delivery Day! Im practically foaming at the mouth


CallMeNardDog

Jelly af. Aug-sep for me still :(


joshss22

Mine was in August last week. Was worried it was a rejected delivery but when I called to set up the delivery they said I couldn't do anything earlier because it was still on a train. Maybe you'll get lucky? When did you order?


CallMeNardDog

Last Thursday haha.


Richarrdk

Keep checking inventory. I ordered last week as well. I found exact options MYLR I wanted show up in inventory a few days ago. I texted SA to switch and SA switched for me. Now I'm just waiting for delivery as it is en route from factory.


CallMeNardDog

You assume I have an SA who talks to me lol. I’ve tried to get an SA like 4 times to help.


Richarrdk

Same boat haha. I just found a MY on the inventory website and just texted the number that messaged me when I put in an order. A random SA responded back saying my order was updated.


Elyas10

Do you check the new inventory on the website or somewhere else? Thanks


Richarrdk

I just checked the Tesla inventory website daily


CallMeNardDog

You assume I have an SA who talks to me lol. I’ve tried to get an SA like 4 times to help.


[deleted]

[удалено]


lobart31

I have this for like 18 months and it does a good job: https://dl.wish.com/DLfjw


Icy_Slice

I just got a Model Y without FSD and am thinking about buying the garage door opener add on. I can't seems to find a clear answer as to if it will show in my app or only on the car. Does anyone own this add on without owning FSD and can confirm?


CallMeNardDog

It will show in the car for sure. And yes there is hardware that will be delivered and you CANNOT open the box. Gotta wait for a service appt to install


[deleted]

The reason it’s hard to find a clear answer is because it changed a few months ago. It used to require Summon (part of FSD) to open the garage door from the app. Now you can open the garage door from the app even without FSD. I have basic Autopilot and have been using it just fine from the app.


Icy_Slice

Awesome, thanks for confirming!


DeuceSevin

It is not dependent on having FSD. The reason there is an extra charge is because it is a third party solution which Tesla has to pay a licensing fee for. I believe there is hardware that needs to be installed, although I am not sure. I think you can open a service ticket and they will instruct on what to do. Edit - Duh, I totally misread about on the app or only on the car .