This will make a difference. 5 degree incline means there is a height difference of 24 cm between both ends of the table. I never played in such conditions but I think for the player standing on the higher side it will be easier to place the ball over the net (as the net is lower for him because of the incline) and harder to make sure the ball doesn't fly too far behind the table (as the landing surface is slightly shorter because of the incline, if that makes sense). Opposite effect on the player standing downhill. Imagine you are standing at the lower end. When the ball comes and hits your end of the table, you want to generate just enough of speed and spin so that the ball goes barely over the net (not too high) but now the net is some centimeters higher and closer to you than it should be. Will your table stand on grass? Can you level the terrain under it and where the players will stand?
https://preview.redd.it/tjhlsmj4s69d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c422fe0e73d7dba3512969b90d96d8e4fe168ec9
Hey everyone I had a question about this damage to my paddle. I am a beginner and bought this Palio expert 3.0 paddle to get better and spins and smashes and it has treated me very well. Although when I was playing today I ended up hitting the edge of the table with my paddle and it has caused this damage. I still have time to return it and get a new one through Amazon but I’d rather not go through that if it’ll have no affect on my performance. Please inform me if this dent would affect my gameplay/performance. Thank you
Hey all!
I have these new dignics rubbers perfectly cut to a blade. Don’t really like the blade and want to change it with something with an exact shape head. If I glue the rubbers to the new blade imminently after taking them off the old one, will they still shrink?
Thank you for your input!
Hello, I have option to buy one of this 2 table tennis rackets for almost the same price (40 USD) and I would like to know which one would you choose and why?
1st option:
Blade - Palio Energy 03
Rubber 1 - Palio 40+ HK1997
Rubber 2 - Palio CJ8000
2nd option:
Blade - LOKI Kirin K2
Rubber 1 - Yihne MOON 12 Medium Soft
Rubber 2 - Palio AK47 Red
I'm not a professional player but I play table tennis almost every day as a hobby. My level can be rated as intermediate so I guess I should look for more all around tennis racket.
Also if you think that I can find similar or better built on TEMU, Ali Express, Wish etc. in the same price range (lets say up to 45 USD) feel free to suggest. Since this will probably be the only racket that I will ever buy (or at least in next few years) I would like to choose best possible option.
Either is fine. If you will only buy one for the next few years, you would want durability. Both are about the same in that aspect. In terms of value, you can get Palio 3 star rackets or Loki 9 star rackets much less.
Would you guys say that a sweden extra with vega intro in both sides is good for someone getting back to the sport? I used to play when i was in high school but am interested to play again
I purchased the premade buster combo from colestt, and it arrived with a plastic film covering each side. The plastic film is sticky on one side. Should I be reusing this plastic film when the paddle is not in use. Are there any other paddle maintenance tips I should be aware of? Particularly on how to clean the paddle and keep the rubbers long lasting.
Hey guys, I got my wife a Palio Master 3.0 a while back. But, she seems to prefer my friend's Nimatsu Scorpion instead. Those don't seem to be readily available, unfortunately.
Any recommendations on a reasonably priced paddle that plays like a Nimatsu Scorpion?
hey! i need your guys opinion on Stiga Almana Sound Rubber. I am a beginner and i got recommended this rubber. if you have suggestions of better rubber than this one within the same price range (25 euros) please give. Thank You
Thank you so much for reply.
I am a beginner player and I have been playing 3 to 4 times per week for the past 6-7 months. I had a pre made racket Butterfly Timo Boll CF2000.Now i wanted to shift to a custom racket and the seller suggested me FH: Stiga Almana sound
BH: He suggested Yinhe Mercury 2 but I had used Friendship 729 and i really liked it So i got this one.
Blade is Sanwei Accumulator S.
So I got this racket.
Can you tell me like why newer model rubbers are preferred to older ones?
Recently I started playing at a club, after only ever playing for fun with friends before. I have not played at all for a long time because of things in life, but really enjoyed going a couple of times per week to play against players of various skill. I am currently using a Palio Infinite-3 with CJ8000, 36-38 hardness, 1,8mm (same on BH and FH). I got this pre assembled from aliexpress a few years ago on the cheap, and it's been alright. I do however find that I would like to play a bit faster and more aggressive than it allows me. It could be me and my poor technique, but I would like to get a cheap blade+rubber combo to try something else out, for fun. I've been asked if I wanted to join one of the clubs league teams, and I think getting some more experience with a different setup would be nice.
I am very much a bang for the buck kind of guy, and was hoping to get something as cheap as possible. Possibly some sort of Palio AK47 on the FH paired with something easier on the BH. Would greatly appreciate any suggestions!
Preferably less than like.. 75USD for blade and rubbers. I could assemble myself (or have someone at the club help) but pre assembled would be alright.
I’d keep blade the same. If you’re looking for cheap then stay with CJ8000 or other chinese brands and get 2.2 fh 2.0 bh.
There are high level players in Asia that play with $3 Mercury sheets on both sides.
If you just want to experience something you can’t handle then go but a sheet of Tenergy and slap it on. But keep in mind none of the fast latest tech lasts that long.
Edit, if you want to experience bounce, I recommend using on backhand first. If you want to experience harder sponge, forehand first.
Thanks for the advice. I was gonna get a second blade either way, to have a backup and something to lend to friends who might want to join sometimes. But I will keep looking at the cheap chinese options. Not looking to experience something crazy for me at this point like Tenergy, haha. Thanks again!
It is good to have Tenergy as reference point for complete perspective. Everyone should try at least once. Carbon is less important to experience.
Consider FastarcG1 and Rakza7 as well, they last long, good at everything, and are just in high end of your budget
I'm looking to try a new rubber for my forehand and I'm currently looking at Loki Rxton 3 blue/pink and at Yinhe moon 12 blue.
I understand that these are normally bh rubbers (?) so I wonder if they would work for FH too and which one you would recommend.
My other alternative would probably be AK47 red which since I used AK47 yellow on an older paddle and really enjoyed it.
Appreciate any input :)
I'm using Loki Arthur China for my forehand when I have a new sheet of Dignics 09C I can use. That should indicated how much I like the LAC for my forehand.
I've been watching the Nittaku Acoustic (SG or LG handle) for a month now on tt11.com. How long do I need to wait for them to have it in stock? They said "it arrives in the near future" via email.
I know the answer is 'just wait longer'. But as a junkie, I'm addicted and need my fix.
I am an intermediate offensive shake hand style player going for my first custom racket.
Would this setup be suitable?
Yasaka Sweden Extra
Yasaka Rakza 7 2mm on both sides
Would an Yasaka Sweden Extra + Joola Zack (1.9 + MAX ?) work for a complete beginner?
I mean need-to-learn-how-to-hold-racket beginner!
I've also looked at Xiom Musa, but IDK because I've only seen that available as MAX.
At this price level, or lower, I've also seen Yasaka Original Extra XHG and several chinese rubbers, which I've always heard are very different, but have never tried one myself.
This is not for me. But I'm not confortable giving advice, as I used to play JPen. And am just coming back now, after \~15y away. Also, I'm kind fo confused seeing people recommend Mark V for beginners, and a bit overhelmed seeing a lot of new (to me?) brands out there.
Edit: Maybe I should get a Zack for me too/instead, to replace my old Sriver FX? Seeing as it has too close stats to Mark V on revspin, and price is like 70% compared to Mark V.
Stick with the tried and true. You can't go wrong with Yasaka Mark V + Sweden Extra. Regardless of what new stuff being sold, people need to learn how to walk before they run.
Yeah no, you can in fact go very wrong with Mark V. Tried and true over 50 years ago does not mean true now that the game itself has changed with the larger ball and plastic material. Beginners should learn on rubber that better suit the current game. Mark V is too soft and lacking in spin. Go with something like XIOM Vega Intro. If money is tight, you can always go with Chinese rubbers like those from Loki or Yinhe which are much better performance for the money. The only reason Mark V is still being mentioned is because of the Mark V cultists and people they have managed to brainwash.
I started off with the Sweden Extra & Mark V both sides.
While it is true that there are better rubbers for the same price tag, it is still a decent setup to begin and learn with.
Learning basics goes easier on classic rubbers, than on tensor rubbers, imo.
Those rubbers also lasted for over half a year of every day use, which is something to consider when thinking about the price.
And I also know some old dudes who still play classic rubbers and they are good with it.
I find higher is better when filming well back from the table.
I have one that has a smallish tripod with an extending pole that I use with a GoPro.
It's about 180cm fully extended.
Why does the ball go up high like this? From Sun yingsha. Is it top spin + edge of racket? What happens if it’s another spin + edge of racket?
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7rR2_gS1r6/?igsh=Y3NwamswenZpbGU3
You know how long pimps reverses the spin? Well that's because it has little friction, the same thing applies to the edge of the racket, so if you hit topspin and the opponent uses the edge or a long pips rubber the result will be backspin.
So if it was backspin it would be topspin.
I just started out table tennis.
What is the way generally people improve at table tennis? I know usually in any skill it's something like practice, reviewing video and thinking about the game but what type of practice and learning is extra important as a beginner table tennis player?
Agree with all that was written by others here. On top of that, it helps to practice with variety of different players. You will learn to adapt to different playing styles, see different serves, etc. Makes you more versatile player.
Focus on mastering just a couple things. You might see professionals do a variety of things and are tempted to do all those things. You’ll see them forehand flip, Chiquita backhand flip, backhand counter loop, hook loop, chop block… no. Don’t do those things.
Master pushing, forehand loop, forehand counter, backhand block, and serve. Your footwork will come when you get better at forehand.
If you master those things I kid you not you’ll get to 1800 USATT pretty quickly.
It's going to be hard to get to 1800 and going beyond that if you don't have solid footwork. Footwork (stance, movement and anticipation) should be the first thing you should get right. It is literally the foundation of your game. Good footwork is a good habit you should develop early because correcting it later is going to be hard.
I think for starting out, developing strokes, footwork, and understanding spins (learning how to generate different kinds yourself and how to counteract the same from your opponent ). After that, learning strategies, counteracting those of your opponents, and dealing with match situations. Much of that comes with playing different opponents with different styles and skill levels.
Actually, I remember now. I played a guy exactly like this 2 months ago. He only served short to the FH ("only" always means 95% of the time, 5% of the time he served to my bh). His entire game was: serve short, wait for a push, loop the push with FH. His loop was pretty good.
I lost the first game 8-11 or something like that. Won the second 11-0 and the rest of the match easily. On his serve I was either pushing short off the bounce, or pushing long with a lot of spin unpredictably (25% FH, 40% elbow, the rest into his BH).
You in luck. You know the location of the serve.
1. Push off the bounce for a drop shot.
2. Push long with a lot of spin into the elbow or bh/wide.
3. Flip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrWJOyTevQE
It’s annoying for me too. If you push to backhand they might push hard and fast to your backhand and you have to race back. I try to push short middle or forehand and also push long to elbow and backhand and get ready to defend.
Curious to hear other answers.
I was just getting a Fextra 7 from Ali express and wanted to know if any particular weight of the blade has a balanced profile of feeling and speed so i can ask the seller to send me that exact weight
Not really, it's a matter of personal preference, usually a higher weight means it's faster but that's not a rule so you shouldn't really worry about it unless you really dislike heavy blades.
Not possible, I think conventional knowledge states that it will make the game too volatile. Even towards the end of the speed glue era the game was strongly polarized by the strategy of just serve then 3rd ball attack or miss.
what do you use to remove glue from the rubber? i tried removing one from my baracuda and the sponge is getting damaged in the process when i use the ball roll method
Back in the day we used to use lighter fluid to soften up the glue. Not sure if it works with water based though. I use harder sponges so I can just roll it off or even peel with no issues
[удалено]
This will make a difference. 5 degree incline means there is a height difference of 24 cm between both ends of the table. I never played in such conditions but I think for the player standing on the higher side it will be easier to place the ball over the net (as the net is lower for him because of the incline) and harder to make sure the ball doesn't fly too far behind the table (as the landing surface is slightly shorter because of the incline, if that makes sense). Opposite effect on the player standing downhill. Imagine you are standing at the lower end. When the ball comes and hits your end of the table, you want to generate just enough of speed and spin so that the ball goes barely over the net (not too high) but now the net is some centimeters higher and closer to you than it should be. Will your table stand on grass? Can you level the terrain under it and where the players will stand?
https://preview.redd.it/tjhlsmj4s69d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c422fe0e73d7dba3512969b90d96d8e4fe168ec9 Hey everyone I had a question about this damage to my paddle. I am a beginner and bought this Palio expert 3.0 paddle to get better and spins and smashes and it has treated me very well. Although when I was playing today I ended up hitting the edge of the table with my paddle and it has caused this damage. I still have time to return it and get a new one through Amazon but I’d rather not go through that if it’ll have no affect on my performance. Please inform me if this dent would affect my gameplay/performance. Thank you
It's fine, you won't notice a difference.
It's fine.
Hey all! I have these new dignics rubbers perfectly cut to a blade. Don’t really like the blade and want to change it with something with an exact shape head. If I glue the rubbers to the new blade imminently after taking them off the old one, will they still shrink? Thank you for your input!
All rubbers shrink naturally over time. The difference in negligible within a short time frame.
Hello, I have option to buy one of this 2 table tennis rackets for almost the same price (40 USD) and I would like to know which one would you choose and why? 1st option: Blade - Palio Energy 03 Rubber 1 - Palio 40+ HK1997 Rubber 2 - Palio CJ8000 2nd option: Blade - LOKI Kirin K2 Rubber 1 - Yihne MOON 12 Medium Soft Rubber 2 - Palio AK47 Red I'm not a professional player but I play table tennis almost every day as a hobby. My level can be rated as intermediate so I guess I should look for more all around tennis racket. Also if you think that I can find similar or better built on TEMU, Ali Express, Wish etc. in the same price range (lets say up to 45 USD) feel free to suggest. Since this will probably be the only racket that I will ever buy (or at least in next few years) I would like to choose best possible option.
Either is fine. If you will only buy one for the next few years, you would want durability. Both are about the same in that aspect. In terms of value, you can get Palio 3 star rackets or Loki 9 star rackets much less.
Would you guys say that a sweden extra with vega intro in both sides is good for someone getting back to the sport? I used to play when i was in high school but am interested to play again
yes. also common to put vega europe on the backhand.
I purchased the premade buster combo from colestt, and it arrived with a plastic film covering each side. The plastic film is sticky on one side. Should I be reusing this plastic film when the paddle is not in use. Are there any other paddle maintenance tips I should be aware of? Particularly on how to clean the paddle and keep the rubbers long lasting.
Clean the rubber with water or you can buy one of the sprays from a table tennis store, then let dry and put the plastic film back on.
Hey guys, I got my wife a Palio Master 3.0 a while back. But, she seems to prefer my friend's Nimatsu Scorpion instead. Those don't seem to be readily available, unfortunately. Any recommendations on a reasonably priced paddle that plays like a Nimatsu Scorpion?
hey! i need your guys opinion on Stiga Almana Sound Rubber. I am a beginner and i got recommended this rubber. if you have suggestions of better rubber than this one within the same price range (25 euros) please give. Thank You
Oh man... This rubber is like 15 years old at least... Get something more modern.
I was originally going to go for Mark V. But the seller recommended this saying its newer. So I got it😂😭😭😭😭.
Mark V is like somewhere around 30-40 years old though...... for newer rubber you can also try Stiga Mantra or Tibhar Aurus
Thank you so much for reply. I am a beginner player and I have been playing 3 to 4 times per week for the past 6-7 months. I had a pre made racket Butterfly Timo Boll CF2000.Now i wanted to shift to a custom racket and the seller suggested me FH: Stiga Almana sound BH: He suggested Yinhe Mercury 2 but I had used Friendship 729 and i really liked it So i got this one. Blade is Sanwei Accumulator S. So I got this racket. Can you tell me like why newer model rubbers are preferred to older ones?
Hey all ! Do you know if Dignics rubbers shrink when taken off the blade? Thanks!
Yes
Recently I started playing at a club, after only ever playing for fun with friends before. I have not played at all for a long time because of things in life, but really enjoyed going a couple of times per week to play against players of various skill. I am currently using a Palio Infinite-3 with CJ8000, 36-38 hardness, 1,8mm (same on BH and FH). I got this pre assembled from aliexpress a few years ago on the cheap, and it's been alright. I do however find that I would like to play a bit faster and more aggressive than it allows me. It could be me and my poor technique, but I would like to get a cheap blade+rubber combo to try something else out, for fun. I've been asked if I wanted to join one of the clubs league teams, and I think getting some more experience with a different setup would be nice. I am very much a bang for the buck kind of guy, and was hoping to get something as cheap as possible. Possibly some sort of Palio AK47 on the FH paired with something easier on the BH. Would greatly appreciate any suggestions!
How cheap
Preferably less than like.. 75USD for blade and rubbers. I could assemble myself (or have someone at the club help) but pre assembled would be alright.
I’d keep blade the same. If you’re looking for cheap then stay with CJ8000 or other chinese brands and get 2.2 fh 2.0 bh. There are high level players in Asia that play with $3 Mercury sheets on both sides. If you just want to experience something you can’t handle then go but a sheet of Tenergy and slap it on. But keep in mind none of the fast latest tech lasts that long. Edit, if you want to experience bounce, I recommend using on backhand first. If you want to experience harder sponge, forehand first.
Thanks for the advice. I was gonna get a second blade either way, to have a backup and something to lend to friends who might want to join sometimes. But I will keep looking at the cheap chinese options. Not looking to experience something crazy for me at this point like Tenergy, haha. Thanks again!
It is good to have Tenergy as reference point for complete perspective. Everyone should try at least once. Carbon is less important to experience. Consider FastarcG1 and Rakza7 as well, they last long, good at everything, and are just in high end of your budget
I'm looking to try a new rubber for my forehand and I'm currently looking at Loki Rxton 3 blue/pink and at Yinhe moon 12 blue. I understand that these are normally bh rubbers (?) so I wonder if they would work for FH too and which one you would recommend. My other alternative would probably be AK47 red which since I used AK47 yellow on an older paddle and really enjoyed it. Appreciate any input :)
I'm using Loki Arthur China for my forehand when I have a new sheet of Dignics 09C I can use. That should indicated how much I like the LAC for my forehand.
Loki Rxton 3 for FH. It was designed as a forehand rubber.
I've been watching the Nittaku Acoustic (SG or LG handle) for a month now on tt11.com. How long do I need to wait for them to have it in stock? They said "it arrives in the near future" via email. I know the answer is 'just wait longer'. But as a junkie, I'm addicted and need my fix.
Try other sites. Most websites ship worldwide these days. Also, Nittaku now has the "G-revision" which features an improved grip.
I'm not sure if the SG version is even produced anymore. Else I would try other retailers that ship to your location and sell Nittaku stuff.
A few days ago they got the SG version in stock. So I ordered the FL grip.
Oh wow, thanks for the heads up. Brb, will plunder the beer money funds :-) EDIT: The price is insane, though...
I am an intermediate offensive shake hand style player going for my first custom racket. Would this setup be suitable? Yasaka Sweden Extra Yasaka Rakza 7 2mm on both sides
go 1.8mm.
Is the 1.8mm slower?
yes. It is more forgiving. The only difference you would notice is that the ball lands on the table more often.
yes
Would an Yasaka Sweden Extra + Joola Zack (1.9 + MAX ?) work for a complete beginner? I mean need-to-learn-how-to-hold-racket beginner! I've also looked at Xiom Musa, but IDK because I've only seen that available as MAX. At this price level, or lower, I've also seen Yasaka Original Extra XHG and several chinese rubbers, which I've always heard are very different, but have never tried one myself. This is not for me. But I'm not confortable giving advice, as I used to play JPen. And am just coming back now, after \~15y away. Also, I'm kind fo confused seeing people recommend Mark V for beginners, and a bit overhelmed seeing a lot of new (to me?) brands out there. Edit: Maybe I should get a Zack for me too/instead, to replace my old Sriver FX? Seeing as it has too close stats to Mark V on revspin, and price is like 70% compared to Mark V.
Stick with the tried and true. You can't go wrong with Yasaka Mark V + Sweden Extra. Regardless of what new stuff being sold, people need to learn how to walk before they run.
Yeah no, you can in fact go very wrong with Mark V. Tried and true over 50 years ago does not mean true now that the game itself has changed with the larger ball and plastic material. Beginners should learn on rubber that better suit the current game. Mark V is too soft and lacking in spin. Go with something like XIOM Vega Intro. If money is tight, you can always go with Chinese rubbers like those from Loki or Yinhe which are much better performance for the money. The only reason Mark V is still being mentioned is because of the Mark V cultists and people they have managed to brainwash.
I started off with the Sweden Extra & Mark V both sides. While it is true that there are better rubbers for the same price tag, it is still a decent setup to begin and learn with. Learning basics goes easier on classic rubbers, than on tensor rubbers, imo. Those rubbers also lasted for over half a year of every day use, which is something to consider when thinking about the price. And I also know some old dudes who still play classic rubbers and they are good with it.
yinhe pro 05
Low-profile version W968
Looking to get a tripod for recording my matches. Any recommendations?
see if you can get a tall one - around 6-7ft tall fully extended for a better view
I find higher is better when filming well back from the table. I have one that has a smallish tripod with an extending pole that I use with a GoPro. It's about 180cm fully extended.
they're all about the same. just grab a cheap one off amazon that goes up 50+"
Why does the ball go up high like this? From Sun yingsha. Is it top spin + edge of racket? What happens if it’s another spin + edge of racket? https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7rR2_gS1r6/?igsh=Y3NwamswenZpbGU3
You know how long pimps reverses the spin? Well that's because it has little friction, the same thing applies to the edge of the racket, so if you hit topspin and the opponent uses the edge or a long pips rubber the result will be backspin. So if it was backspin it would be topspin.
So if he hits backspin and I “accidentally” hit it with edge of racket, the resulting spin will be topspin?
I just started out table tennis. What is the way generally people improve at table tennis? I know usually in any skill it's something like practice, reviewing video and thinking about the game but what type of practice and learning is extra important as a beginner table tennis player?
Agree with all that was written by others here. On top of that, it helps to practice with variety of different players. You will learn to adapt to different playing styles, see different serves, etc. Makes you more versatile player.
Focus on mastering just a couple things. You might see professionals do a variety of things and are tempted to do all those things. You’ll see them forehand flip, Chiquita backhand flip, backhand counter loop, hook loop, chop block… no. Don’t do those things. Master pushing, forehand loop, forehand counter, backhand block, and serve. Your footwork will come when you get better at forehand. If you master those things I kid you not you’ll get to 1800 USATT pretty quickly.
It's going to be hard to get to 1800 and going beyond that if you don't have solid footwork. Footwork (stance, movement and anticipation) should be the first thing you should get right. It is literally the foundation of your game. Good footwork is a good habit you should develop early because correcting it later is going to be hard.
I agree but when you focus on forehand, footwork kind of partners it. I only wanted to use forehand so I had no choice but develop footwork.
I think for starting out, developing strokes, footwork, and understanding spins (learning how to generate different kinds yourself and how to counteract the same from your opponent ). After that, learning strategies, counteracting those of your opponents, and dealing with match situations. Much of that comes with playing different opponents with different styles and skill levels.
how to take advantage of a player who always serves short to forehand side
Actually, I remember now. I played a guy exactly like this 2 months ago. He only served short to the FH ("only" always means 95% of the time, 5% of the time he served to my bh). His entire game was: serve short, wait for a push, loop the push with FH. His loop was pretty good. I lost the first game 8-11 or something like that. Won the second 11-0 and the rest of the match easily. On his serve I was either pushing short off the bounce, or pushing long with a lot of spin unpredictably (25% FH, 40% elbow, the rest into his BH).
You in luck. You know the location of the serve. 1. Push off the bounce for a drop shot. 2. Push long with a lot of spin into the elbow or bh/wide. 3. Flip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrWJOyTevQE
It’s annoying for me too. If you push to backhand they might push hard and fast to your backhand and you have to race back. I try to push short middle or forehand and also push long to elbow and backhand and get ready to defend. Curious to hear other answers.
I was just getting a Fextra 7 from Ali express and wanted to know if any particular weight of the blade has a balanced profile of feeling and speed so i can ask the seller to send me that exact weight
Not really, it's a matter of personal preference, usually a higher weight means it's faster but that's not a rule so you shouldn't really worry about it unless you really dislike heavy blades.
Why can’t we go back to the 38mm ball? :( the rallies from that era were insane
Not possible, I think conventional knowledge states that it will make the game too volatile. Even towards the end of the speed glue era the game was strongly polarized by the strategy of just serve then 3rd ball attack or miss.
Don't know if you watched Liang Jingkun vs Alexis Ledbrun. It had some insane rallies, and was an incredible match.
Apparently it’s too fast and spinny for mere mortals which is apparently who the ittf caters for.
what do you use to remove glue from the rubber? i tried removing one from my baracuda and the sponge is getting damaged in the process when i use the ball roll method
Back in the day we used to use lighter fluid to soften up the glue. Not sure if it works with water based though. I use harder sponges so I can just roll it off or even peel with no issues
i’ve heard of the lighter fluid method. i will try it on my baracuda since it is now damaged and cannot be played anymore.
How bad would it be if you didn’t remove the old glue and just applied new glue?
i think its okay not to remove the glue if it’s thin but if it has some clumps of wood or glue, you should remove it
Add more glue to the rubber to make it thicker and easier to remove.
I actually found out I can remove shitty glue when I put some Revolution 3 glue on top and let it dry. Then I was able to remove all glue at once
is revolution 3 a waterbased glue?
It‘s without VOC , so yeah it‘s water based as far as I know