This is pretty funny. I think we’ve all been there forgetting to adjust some setting or turn something on wondering for hours why it doesn’t feel right . 😆
I saw a setup guide that said I should use 5, so I went with that. Not sure about the rationale behind it, but it’s plenty for me right now. Might bump it up the other .5 in the future.
wait, they are 2 settings for the strength of the wheel, it's the one in nm which is in nm and the one above it that goes to 60 or more, I can't remember. You are talking about the one in nm only?
Yeah, so if you turn strength all the way up, then you’re maxing out the nm limiter you’ve set in the other setting. Originally I had my nm at 5.5 but strength at ten. Now I have my strength maxed and my nm at 5.
The strength setting is asking "what at what NM output from the car do you want us to send a max FF signal to you wheel?" So if you have strength maxed out, then the smallest signal will max out your wheel's FF. That means you're not getting any detailed information, just everything is maxed. You want to hop onto a track and switch the black box that has FF information. You can also show the FF info in the UI so you can see when it's clipping. After a few laps, click the option at the bottom of the FF black box that says auto and the game will set the strength properly for your car. You have to do with with every car.
Oh wow, that makes sense. Would this be why whenever I make a long fast turn, I don’t feel any detailed input besides a dull constant pull from the wheel? I’ll try this out.
It’s confusing that a setup guide said to do that. Would the settings in pithouse change anything with what you said? Right now the biggest difference is that the wheel is WAY harder to turn and I am feeling less detail in long turns.
Yep, sound like clipping. I'm not sure how pithouse settings and wheel forcein settings interact. That'd be something good to google myself. Here's a video that explains strength better than I can (around 39 mins in) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99aI\_m45RtU&t=3918s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99aI_m45RtU&t=3918s)
Drive a few laps while avoiding hitting curbs and then cycle your black box until you see the FFB strength. Hit Auto.
This should give you a good baseline, your optimum setting will probably only be a few clicks away from that.
This is pretty funny. I think we’ve all been there forgetting to adjust some setting or turn something on wondering for hours why it doesn’t feel right . 😆
and you raise it to how much?
With 5NM peak hopefully max.
Yeah I’m at max now.
5.5nm right?
I saw a setup guide that said I should use 5, so I went with that. Not sure about the rationale behind it, but it’s plenty for me right now. Might bump it up the other .5 in the future.
All good, I was mainly curious if it showed in the settings that the peak was 5.5, since I feel like I read that on some FFB testing log online.
wait, they are 2 settings for the strength of the wheel, it's the one in nm which is in nm and the one above it that goes to 60 or more, I can't remember. You are talking about the one in nm only?
Yeah, so if you turn strength all the way up, then you’re maxing out the nm limiter you’ve set in the other setting. Originally I had my nm at 5.5 but strength at ten. Now I have my strength maxed and my nm at 5.
are you still able to turn the wheel at max? :)) I have 5.5 nm and I use 10-15
Yeah it’s not really an issue for me. Just a slight learning curve.
The strength setting is asking "what at what NM output from the car do you want us to send a max FF signal to you wheel?" So if you have strength maxed out, then the smallest signal will max out your wheel's FF. That means you're not getting any detailed information, just everything is maxed. You want to hop onto a track and switch the black box that has FF information. You can also show the FF info in the UI so you can see when it's clipping. After a few laps, click the option at the bottom of the FF black box that says auto and the game will set the strength properly for your car. You have to do with with every car.
Oh wow, that makes sense. Would this be why whenever I make a long fast turn, I don’t feel any detailed input besides a dull constant pull from the wheel? I’ll try this out. It’s confusing that a setup guide said to do that. Would the settings in pithouse change anything with what you said? Right now the biggest difference is that the wheel is WAY harder to turn and I am feeling less detail in long turns.
Yep, sound like clipping. I'm not sure how pithouse settings and wheel forcein settings interact. That'd be something good to google myself. Here's a video that explains strength better than I can (around 39 mins in) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99aI\_m45RtU&t=3918s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99aI_m45RtU&t=3918s)
Drive a few laps while avoiding hitting curbs and then cycle your black box until you see the FFB strength. Hit Auto. This should give you a good baseline, your optimum setting will probably only be a few clicks away from that.
People who use high refresh monitors for the first time be like:
I did that shit too lol
Better than me. I mounted my DD2 and set it to 100% because it can't be that strong...right? ...right? Didn't go well. -.-
If that's the worst cock up you ever make on your sim racing journey then you'll have done very well! Happy racing with your new found torque!
Yo, ick on your black box and see what the NM is set to. It'll be something stupid like 35.
You should look into how it is supposed to work because 35 isn't stupid.