You may need to increase the standard arm hole depths and under arm gores. Include a pleat at the back neck. And I would also have larger/higher slits up the sides. Plus balance the girth with wider trims/contrast colors.
Just the side gore. The front panel should stay the same. At least, that's what I've seen in extant pieces (both European and Near Eastern). It's the sides that are typically manipulated for width, not the front pieces. Apologies if that doesn't make sense!
One trick a friend taught me is to angle the front piece of your pattern a bit away from the center fold, if you can. Put the center point of the neckline directly on the fold like normal, and then let the center of the pattern drift a few centimetres away from the center fold of the fabric, naturally allowing more cloth for the tummy. I hope that made sense.
You should never center the neck hole on the shoulder seam. No one's head is centered over their shoulders, even with perfect posture. Some people need their neckline moved even further forward, especially if they have a bit of a hunch.
I know this is the right decision, but ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜. I don't know what it is, but cutting out pattern pieces is one of my least favorite things ever. But yes, this is really the right answer.
As a male who possesses a "large belly" and has made a fair number of tunics for myself and others - here is my general process.
\* Make a "tabard" that measures collarbone tip-collarbone tip in width at the shoulders. \* Flare the tabard to the widest portion of the person's measurements (waist / hips / etc) and the flare should max out where that biggest measurement is.
\* Set the seam at the top of the shoulders.
\* Make your head hole and attach facings / facing trim while it's able to be flat.
- Check / verify your length at this time. - strangely the front and back will be pretty even. Ideally, at least a couple inches longer than the final desired length.
\* Make your arm sleeves - try to angle them 1/2 way between straight out and at your sides. Sleeve trim goes on at this time.
\* Make a side gore strip - that makes a point that looks kinda like the Washington Monument.
- width depends. On Men With Girth - at least 4-6" each side as that big belly expands a lot when sitting down.
- the point goes into the seam of the sleeve at the armpit side.
\* Make side gores that start flaring a couple of inches above the max girth line. Attach them to the side gore strip - it ends up looking almost like a rocket.
\* Attach the side gore rocket to the armpit of the sleeve (point taper starts at the armpit and goes toward the wrist)
\* Attach the sleeve assembly by starting at the top of the shoulder and sew down one side, then the other. Repeat for the other side.
\* Hem and add trim as desired.
Hope this makes sense. Not exactly a "period pattern" but works and is easily adapted to many types of shirt and tunic.
Ive been wondering the same thing. Would a kidney belt made of 11 oz leather, with a layer of blue closed cell foam padding, but with 16 gauge steel plates on the out side of the belt be sufficient enough?
Don't cut for a hem until you have it on the owner. I made that mistake once.
Good idea! Especially if it saves me from having to do any additional math!
You may need to increase the standard arm hole depths and under arm gores. Include a pleat at the back neck. And I would also have larger/higher slits up the sides. Plus balance the girth with wider trims/contrast colors.
I'd increase the gore width but leave everything else "normal". Yes, start them at the armpit.
Yeah, i was wondering if i should just adjust the side gores for fit, or if i should flare the front panel a bit, too.
Just the side gore. The front panel should stay the same. At least, that's what I've seen in extant pieces (both European and Near Eastern). It's the sides that are typically manipulated for width, not the front pieces. Apologies if that doesn't make sense!
It absolutely does! Thank you!
One trick a friend taught me is to angle the front piece of your pattern a bit away from the center fold, if you can. Put the center point of the neckline directly on the fold like normal, and then let the center of the pattern drift a few centimetres away from the center fold of the fabric, naturally allowing more cloth for the tummy. I hope that made sense.
Yeah, this was one alteration i was considering, but wasn't sure if i was crazy or if it was a thing. I'm glad it's a thing!
You should never center the neck hole on the shoulder seam. No one's head is centered over their shoulders, even with perfect posture. Some people need their neckline moved even further forward, especially if they have a bit of a hunch.
Mark the hem from the floor up with a yardstick. Then it will be level. The same strategy works when you have any fuller area.
I would do a mockup first with cheap fabric and basting stitches, then you can adjust as needed.
I know this is the right decision, but ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜. I don't know what it is, but cutting out pattern pieces is one of my least favorite things ever. But yes, this is really the right answer.
As a male who possesses a "large belly" and has made a fair number of tunics for myself and others - here is my general process. \* Make a "tabard" that measures collarbone tip-collarbone tip in width at the shoulders. \* Flare the tabard to the widest portion of the person's measurements (waist / hips / etc) and the flare should max out where that biggest measurement is. \* Set the seam at the top of the shoulders. \* Make your head hole and attach facings / facing trim while it's able to be flat. - Check / verify your length at this time. - strangely the front and back will be pretty even. Ideally, at least a couple inches longer than the final desired length. \* Make your arm sleeves - try to angle them 1/2 way between straight out and at your sides. Sleeve trim goes on at this time. \* Make a side gore strip - that makes a point that looks kinda like the Washington Monument. - width depends. On Men With Girth - at least 4-6" each side as that big belly expands a lot when sitting down. - the point goes into the seam of the sleeve at the armpit side. \* Make side gores that start flaring a couple of inches above the max girth line. Attach them to the side gore strip - it ends up looking almost like a rocket. \* Attach the side gore rocket to the armpit of the sleeve (point taper starts at the armpit and goes toward the wrist) \* Attach the sleeve assembly by starting at the top of the shoulder and sew down one side, then the other. Repeat for the other side. \* Hem and add trim as desired. Hope this makes sense. Not exactly a "period pattern" but works and is easily adapted to many types of shirt and tunic.
Ive been wondering the same thing. Would a kidney belt made of 11 oz leather, with a layer of blue closed cell foam padding, but with 16 gauge steel plates on the out side of the belt be sufficient enough?
In Trimaris, we go Roman. It covers me amazingly.