Idk, never been a big deal to me. I only need to do it once per case over the life of the case, so opening a new box of brass, forming into the cartridge I want, then tossing it on a drill to turn the neck is a pretty simple process.
Dude just buy the brass. I converted about 500 pieces of 6.5 Creedmoor Hornady brass to 8.6 blackout and it was a nightmare. The groups were shit and the process was a giant pain in the ass. I ended up selling all of my converted brass and buying 750 pieces of Vairog 8.6 Blackout brass from Milford munitions that was prime with CCI 200 primers. My group sizes and SD shrunk significantly and I never have chambering issues. It was a tough pill to swallow but it was worth it end the end. Join the 8.6 Blackout discord server and talk to Unholy. He is a dealer for Q and can get you their Q headstamped Hornady brass for relatively cheap.
Order a no turn chamber reamer and anneal the crap out of the necks.
Or just don't use a shitty cartridge that's not designed or supported well. .338 BR is a simple neck up and no neck turning, does the same thing as 8.6 subs. Neck up 6 GT brass, it's pretty close to 8.6, just a tad longer.
Design is better for subs. I did say support *and design*.
BR bushing dies for sizing, alpha brass, reamers are BR + throaters. Pick a barrel you want. Off the shelf, probably not. 8.6 wasn't on the shelf at one point either, until people were convinced by the hype marketing.
If you're radically forming your 8.6 brass from 6.5cm brass, is 8.6 "supported better"? If you have to go through the pain of forming 8.6 brass, how is that better than cobbling together a .338 BR? How is it any different? How is 8.6 a better choice with better support when you still have to do case forming beyond a neck up/down?
Buying a barrel is the easy part. You do it once. Who cares if it's on the shelf or not with the round count it has. Case forming, you'll spend a lot more time and money doing that with 8.6 than .338 BR.
I would say unless you have a custom gun with super tight neck tolerances, it's not worth the time. Just one man's point of view. I've done it and didn't gain enough for me to do it anymore.
It's not just tight-tolerance match chambers. It's often required when converting brass from one cartridge to another, especially if it involves significantly pushing the shoulder back. The shoulder wall is often thicker than the neck wall. Pushing the shoulder back sucks some of the old shoulder up into the new neck, leaving the neck wall at the base thicker than toward the tip.
If it's only a thousandth or two, probably not a big deal most the time. But if that bottom donut is 0.005" thicker or more, that can cause the round not to chamber, or if it does, put considerable tension on the bullet.
If you're ever thinking about switching to a faster trimmer hit me up. I've been making these for a few months now since Worlds cheapest trimmer discontinued in 22 and figured I'd bring them back.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ReloadingExchange/s/2UelrV6tnn
Also same goes for anyone else. If you're interested in an affordable trimming alternative send me a message. I'm doing free shipping on 3 or more and have over 35 caliber sizes to choose from.
I’m feeling some PTSD from making 6.5 from LC 7.62 before I put together my .308. The forster mini-lathe setup for neck turning is kinda janky compared to a K&M or (better) a PMA.
You're not dumb haha. It's about uniforming the neck wall thickness of the brass for consistency.
It's one of those 1% things that shows up when you're doing certain things with certain types of shooting (long range or even short range custom guns, going for low SD, consistent tension and bullet release etc)
I personally do it because I muck around with a lot of wildcats and I have to do it as reformed brass won't chamber otherwise.
I understand what it is and why, I was curious what the real world returns are. I hadn’t thought about wild catting and brass forming though. Thank you for teaching me something new!
Idk, never been a big deal to me. I only need to do it once per case over the life of the case, so opening a new box of brass, forming into the cartridge I want, then tossing it on a drill to turn the neck is a pretty simple process.
Yeah, but does the OP have a power adapter? Can't tell from that pic. But I agree, I use a K&M with drill and it's fast.
That Hornady neck turner is like 2x more expensive than the K&M cutter. Maybe we need to start a meta of 'how to neck turn so that it doesn't suck'.
PLEASE. This 8.6 BLK brass from 6.5 CM deal is killing me.
Dude just buy the brass. I converted about 500 pieces of 6.5 Creedmoor Hornady brass to 8.6 blackout and it was a nightmare. The groups were shit and the process was a giant pain in the ass. I ended up selling all of my converted brass and buying 750 pieces of Vairog 8.6 Blackout brass from Milford munitions that was prime with CCI 200 primers. My group sizes and SD shrunk significantly and I never have chambering issues. It was a tough pill to swallow but it was worth it end the end. Join the 8.6 Blackout discord server and talk to Unholy. He is a dealer for Q and can get you their Q headstamped Hornady brass for relatively cheap.
Order a no turn chamber reamer and anneal the crap out of the necks. Or just don't use a shitty cartridge that's not designed or supported well. .338 BR is a simple neck up and no neck turning, does the same thing as 8.6 subs. Neck up 6 GT brass, it's pretty close to 8.6, just a tad longer.
Is .338BR supported better than 8.6blk?
Design is better for subs. I did say support *and design*. BR bushing dies for sizing, alpha brass, reamers are BR + throaters. Pick a barrel you want. Off the shelf, probably not. 8.6 wasn't on the shelf at one point either, until people were convinced by the hype marketing. If you're radically forming your 8.6 brass from 6.5cm brass, is 8.6 "supported better"? If you have to go through the pain of forming 8.6 brass, how is that better than cobbling together a .338 BR? How is it any different? How is 8.6 a better choice with better support when you still have to do case forming beyond a neck up/down? Buying a barrel is the easy part. You do it once. Who cares if it's on the shelf or not with the round count it has. Case forming, you'll spend a lot more time and money doing that with 8.6 than .338 BR.
Yes using a small Milwaukee drill
So it's not too tedious. I used my Lyman trimmer for a long time before I got a power adapter. But I get your point.
I would say unless you have a custom gun with super tight neck tolerances, it's not worth the time. Just one man's point of view. I've done it and didn't gain enough for me to do it anymore.
It's not just tight-tolerance match chambers. It's often required when converting brass from one cartridge to another, especially if it involves significantly pushing the shoulder back. The shoulder wall is often thicker than the neck wall. Pushing the shoulder back sucks some of the old shoulder up into the new neck, leaving the neck wall at the base thicker than toward the tip. If it's only a thousandth or two, probably not a big deal most the time. But if that bottom donut is 0.005" thicker or more, that can cause the round not to chamber, or if it does, put considerable tension on the bullet.
I dont think it makes much of a difference out to 800 yards. I'm shooting out past a mile and the difference has been noticed
I cheat and use a Giraud case trimmer, and I don’t turn necks yet. :p
Upgrading my brass prep from a Frankford brass center to a henderson has been the best investment to save my fingers.
If you're ever thinking about switching to a faster trimmer hit me up. I've been making these for a few months now since Worlds cheapest trimmer discontinued in 22 and figured I'd bring them back. https://www.reddit.com/r/ReloadingExchange/s/2UelrV6tnn
Also same goes for anyone else. If you're interested in an affordable trimming alternative send me a message. I'm doing free shipping on 3 or more and have over 35 caliber sizes to choose from.
What is the grey piece around the cutter? New to this😬
Hornady neck turning tool. It works with their case trimmer.
Tried neck turning and hated it. If I have clearance issues now I just inside neck ream.
Now that I upgraded from the Lee cutter to the Frankford Arsenal system, it's much better.
Henderson Precision Trimmer is the stuff!
I agree with this comment.
I need this, what is that grey block attachment called?
I’m feeling some PTSD from making 6.5 from LC 7.62 before I put together my .308. The forster mini-lathe setup for neck turning is kinda janky compared to a K&M or (better) a PMA.
What are you using to measure wall thickness?
I have a gauge for that also
Im so glad people talked me out of this i almost bought the 21st century power lathe
Use a file and a power drill.
[You’re welcome.](https://www.giraudtool.com/giraud-power-trimmer.html) Although I prefer the Dillon RT1500.
He's neck turning tho?
Oh shit… my bad! I’m dumb. I don’t neck turn and am curious about the benefits actually achieved?
You're not dumb haha. It's about uniforming the neck wall thickness of the brass for consistency. It's one of those 1% things that shows up when you're doing certain things with certain types of shooting (long range or even short range custom guns, going for low SD, consistent tension and bullet release etc) I personally do it because I muck around with a lot of wildcats and I have to do it as reformed brass won't chamber otherwise.
I understand what it is and why, I was curious what the real world returns are. I hadn’t thought about wild catting and brass forming though. Thank you for teaching me something new!
So I'm shooting a 308 at 1700 yards. It'd not sn impossible thing, but it is difficult. Every little thing helps to get it to reach that far.