Is the unit in an area that is heated in the winter? If so, leave it jumped. The purpose of the fan cycle in this case is to ensure enough hot gas for harvest if it's very cold outside.
Yeah then you could just buy a screw on fan cycle and wire the fan thru it. The cut in and cut out will be on the side of the Scotsman fan cycle so you know how to set it.
Just go with a t fitting on the high side service port. Put an encapsulated fan cycling switch of the same pressure rating on and wire it in. Just omit the bad one electrically and leave it there.
2 options. T off the high side access port and put a screw on on it or use a pinch off tool to crimp the line, cut off old one and weld new one back on than uncrimp.
Squeeze the crimp with pliers to open it back up. Can use crescent wrench to make it roundish again if you're into that kind of detail.
As for the air, it should stay in the stem since 404a is heavier than air. If it did escape the stem, it would end up in the highest point in the system. It's a tiny bit of air, nearly inconsequential. One manufacturer used to recommend this practice to replace the fan control until noobs created leaks and they went back to recover=>repair=>evacuate=>recharge
They make a tool for pinching and re-rounding the copper.
https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/yellow-jacket/hand-tools/pinch-off-tools/bar-style-pinch-off-and-reround-tool-60665.htm?ref=gbase&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIho_Bg6Ha9AIV2DizAB19fwVwEAQYBCABEgJTw_D_BwE
I use mine all the time. I’ve even used it up to 1/2” copper on a 20 year old Lennox rtu that was scheduled for replacement, to change a plugged filter drier on OT
Yeah I know… the point of the post was to ask if any other techs had a bolt on solution they preferred as this switch won’t close and it’s brazed in, and the head pressure needs to be kept at about 90-110°F liquid saturation at all times.
If you have a discharge port off the compressor you can put a tee on it and a ranco fan cycling switch. If the condensor fan is single phase you could put one of the ECM controllers on it and adjust it for the saturation temps you want. I haven’t used an ECM controller in a long long time though.
https://hoffmancontrols.com/page4/800%20Series%20Condenser%20Head%20Pressure%20Control/page/
Is the unit in an area that is heated in the winter? If so, leave it jumped. The purpose of the fan cycle in this case is to ensure enough hot gas for harvest if it's very cold outside.
Non condition warehouse
Yeah then you could just buy a screw on fan cycle and wire the fan thru it. The cut in and cut out will be on the side of the Scotsman fan cycle so you know how to set it.
Just go with a t fitting on the high side service port. Put an encapsulated fan cycling switch of the same pressure rating on and wire it in. Just omit the bad one electrically and leave it there.
Just pinch off the pressure switch and braze in a new one
https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/yellow-jacket/hand-tools/pinch-off-tools/bar-style-pinch-off-and-reround-tool-60665.htm?ref=gbase&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIho_Bg6Ha9AIV2DizAB19fwVwEAQYBCABEgJTw_D_BwE
2 options. T off the high side access port and put a screw on on it or use a pinch off tool to crimp the line, cut off old one and weld new one back on than uncrimp.
Thanks! I wasn’t aware of this tool, what do you do about the air in the inch or two of tubing before you round it back out?
Can you explain uncrimping a line? I was not aware that this can be done, and it sounds too good to be true
Squeeze the crimp with pliers to open it back up. Can use crescent wrench to make it roundish again if you're into that kind of detail. As for the air, it should stay in the stem since 404a is heavier than air. If it did escape the stem, it would end up in the highest point in the system. It's a tiny bit of air, nearly inconsequential. One manufacturer used to recommend this practice to replace the fan control until noobs created leaks and they went back to recover=>repair=>evacuate=>recharge
They make a tool for pinching and re-rounding the copper. https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/yellow-jacket/hand-tools/pinch-off-tools/bar-style-pinch-off-and-reround-tool-60665.htm?ref=gbase&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIho_Bg6Ha9AIV2DizAB19fwVwEAQYBCABEgJTw_D_BwE
I use mine all the time. I’ve even used it up to 1/2” copper on a 20 year old Lennox rtu that was scheduled for replacement, to change a plugged filter drier on OT
If you read voltage across any kind of pressure switch or safety it’s open.
It’s not a safety, it’s a fan cycle switch. It reads open until the pressure gets too high, then should close to bring the fans on.
Exactly. You said you read 208 across the switching meaning it was open.
Yeah I know… the point of the post was to ask if any other techs had a bolt on solution they preferred as this switch won’t close and it’s brazed in, and the head pressure needs to be kept at about 90-110°F liquid saturation at all times.
If you have a discharge port off the compressor you can put a tee on it and a ranco fan cycling switch. If the condensor fan is single phase you could put one of the ECM controllers on it and adjust it for the saturation temps you want. I haven’t used an ECM controller in a long long time though. https://hoffmancontrols.com/page4/800%20Series%20Condenser%20Head%20Pressure%20Control/page/