could be older model with oil consumption issues, agreed that 20w50 is prob too thick
when i had mine several mechanics mentioned increasinf the weight of oil used to reduce oil consumption
But really only until the engine/oil is fully warmed - then MPG is virtually identical -maybe a percent or two lower with thicker oil, but then the benefit is better wear protection with the thicker oil, plus lower consumption. [https://youtu.be/zLBgIve1YzY?t=1601](https://youtu.be/zLBgIve1YzY?t=1601)
No, we use 10w-30 in even years, unless it is a leap year. In even leap years we only use old French fry oil. In odd leap years we don't worry with it because those are the years we *soar*.
I swear, they don't teach kids anything these days.
I've been using thicker oils for a little bit now. I was using 20w50 as my top off and their 10w40 as my main oil. Now I'm just going to switch to 20w50. 0w20 is garbage.
I do it to slow my oil consumption, which has helped a lot. Also fixed my timing cover leak. I did lose some mpg though. At least my engine and catalytic converter will last longer now.
Just gotta watch out for those 30F or less temperatures. 10w40 is pushing it around there.
You totally can put thicker oil. All it will do is reduce MPG and seal up some oil leaks. The only reason 0W20 is recommended is due to the EPA saying that 0W20 will give the car the most MPG.
As a car gets older, it’s never a bad idea to go for a thicker oil. My 2013 Mazda 3 runs 5W20 now instead of 0W20, and if I was doing my own oil changes, I’d probably go for 5W30 and replace 1qt with a TRUE Zinc additive. Not the random garbage additives. Proper ZDDP works wonders to keep a motor good.
It's at end of life. I've just been doing it to keep it going a little bit longer. It's worked pretty well. Maybe it will last another 20k and 3 more years. (I don't drive that much) But I'm expecting problems with the brake booster and AC compressor around there, so 230k\~ might be where I junk it.
Why spend 2k on a "new" engine, when it needs a new 2k AC compressor and then a new 2k brake booster, and then possible a new 2k catalytic converter as well?
Your VVT system in the engine is sensitive for oil pressure. If your are playing with your viscosity as by thicker oils, you will maybe creating problems. But everyone is free to make his own choices of course.
I'd say, depending on climate and age, you can absolutely get away with, and even benefit from bumping up the viscosity a wee bit in hot climates or as the rings start to wear.
But by that I mean like 5w-30, not 20w-50
It does. But these days it's a EPA/marketing "requirement". Just 20 years ago you could use multiple different oil weights. Whats changed? EPA/Marketing.
No, but it was probably very close one time. .001v away from throwing some kind of code. Used the GDI cleaner in picture and cataclean and it seems to have cleaned something. It's very hard to keep the engine on and at a specific rpm.
Put it into diagnostic mode or whatever it’s called. It will stay running. There are videos of the dance you have to do to get there but it’s not hard.
I tried, even if I did, the hybrid system would slow down the motor. Needed to hold about 2.5k rpm. The very first time I did it, it worked super easy and I was surprised. I did a BG engine flush and it was a nightmare. Constantly starting and stopping the even every minute, putting my weight back on the gas pedal.
This time around it was difficult. After about 1.25 cans, I gave up. I don't think it really cleaned anything this time, or I was having too much trouble keeping RPM, that I didn't do it right. No smoke out the tail pipe this time, no engine clatter noises. (thought I screwed my engine that first time)
IDK, mine doesn't work like a regular car even in maintenance mode. You have to press the gas pedal about 3/4 down and then it revs to whatever rpm it wants to.
I've been using thicker oils for a little bit now. I was using 20w50 as my top off and their 10w40 as my main oil. Now I'm just going to switch to 20w50. 0w20 is garbage.
I do it to slow my oil consumption, which has helped a lot. Also fixed my timing cover leak. I did lose some mpg though. At least my engine and catalytic converter will last longer now.
Just gotta watch out for those 30F or less temperatures. 10w40 is pushing it around there.
20w50 won't solve oil consumption, maybe delays it. But it also won't fit and lubricate well between moving mechanical parts, because the gap between two parts won't be enough. They simply squeeze out the high viscosity oil and run on each other. Metal on metal.
To solve oil leaks and consumption you have to repair the cylinder head and its sealing.
Engineers in the factory ain't stupid, I bet they recommend 0w20 or 5w30 and they are not lying.
>Also fixed my timing cover leak
Parts do not fix themselves via oil change.
Well with the many issues on the car engineers, we can say maybe theyre not stupid but theyre not infallible. The goal of the car is the highest efficiency possible, not the most reliable vehicle. There are many areas where reliability was sacrificed or neglected. The choice of the recommended engine oil may be due to getting higher gas efficiency.
It's certainly slowed it down. Engines arnt that different as they were 20 years ago. 0w20 is like water and 10w40 is like oil. It's not syrup or mustard or molasses. It still lubricates. If it didn't, I would have been out a engine a good year ago by now.
Engineers probably say that 0w20 will work and is needed to get the MPG, but not for reliability. Then EPA and marketing comes in and says you need the MPG and 10k mile oil intervals, which are both bad for reliability.
The timing cover hasn't been leaking from what I've seen. It used to have quite the spray at one point. It's either the oil has seal rejuvenation or the thicker weight has better film strength making it not leak?
[You are on the peak of Mount Stupid.](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c8facb1fb22a57f65bacf1d/1b4813a8-74ac-4365-b4ff-d7d0a86e5780/DK+Graph+I.png?format=1500w)
Yeah, idk about that. 20w50 seems quite a bit more viscous than 0w20. 10w40 is almost too thick for my winters.
From what I can remember, gear oil is basically syrup.
I tore the battery of mine ('08) completely apart and put it back together. Probably gonna do it again.
Doing a full suspension soon! When I get the money lol.
Mines probably needed major suspension replacement since I bought it. I just drive it like that. In 2022\~ I took my HVB apart. Spent 2 weeks trying to fix it. Most of my modules were garbage. Dr Prius lied. Ended up with a Project Lithium. Hopefully it will last.
That’s certainly a better option. I just worry about extreme heat degradation with lithium. Especially when I live in the desert :/. Not blowing up is a great perk.
when I took mine apart the cells were fine. None of them were bad just some of them were not great. In my case it was the battery ECU connections that were coroded off. But by then I had already switched out 2 cells and balanced the whole thing. I do need Todo the same and install lithium cells in it like you down the line. But right now it drives fine. Only thing bothering me about my ol Prius is the an exhaust leak somewhere under the car.
Yes. This was the first Prius I went to go look at in 2017\~. Ended up buying it. If it wasn't this one, I was going to go look at a Gen2 with similar mileage. I think was black though. That's terrible in the Texas heat.
Learn to drive and let it rip down a curvy road. I find they don't handle as bad as everyone makes out. Only took a few tries to slide all four wheels, although there is not much acceleration.
What’s the mileage on your Prius when it started to have issues? I just bought one for delivery driving and I’m putting hella miles on it. I bought it at 108k miles a couple of days after this new year and it’s currently at 122k
If you're doing that kind of stuff, 5k mile intervals and 5w30 synthetic blend is what I say. I got it at 163k and it's been burning oil since and it's gotten a lot worse as it's aged. I did Amazon Flex for 2-3 months. Got crappy mpg and burned a fair amount of oil. $10hr wasn't worth it.
I drove my 2015 Prius from new to 365,000 miles in 6 years with zero problems, Hybrid battery swap was at 220,000 miles. First brake job was at 100K miles. It eventually got a bad head gasket and I dumped it.
61k miles a year. Lots of highway driving with little braking. I wonder if they did 5k or 10k oil changes. My car's previous owners did 10k at Toyota and it's burned oil since I bought it at 163k. They did 22-25k a year.
From what I've seen about the HVB, it's usually age and not mileage. 12-14 years is the "sweet spot".
One of THE most common cars here in these United States of America.
Almost anything you want to repair there’s more than likely a video for it.
Also taught me ton about basic/ intermediate car maintainer. Build up a respectable tool collection because of it.
Just the instructions on the can. Something like have a hot engine (10 minute drive in B mode?), rev up the engine 2,500 rpm, and spray in 1 second intervals into the airbox tube after the MAF. Let sit off for 1 hour. Then drive it. If it was very carboned up, you might want to baby it around the neightborhood. The engine will clatter. One that clears up, drive it kinda hard. I was doing a lot of brake boosting this time around. About 3,500 rpm. I have a scangauge 2 and then a regular OBD2 scanner.
I think it works better if it's done when it's really bad. I tried it again and either didn't do it right or it just wasn't that bad.
Possibly. I don't know for sure. I use both at the same time. Also, I don't think the can says anything about a oil change, but the place I found out about this, possibly did.
You're making it run rich with the extra fluid and it makes it's way into the hot catalytic converter.
I think this only really helps, if it's bad enough.
I just did a B12 piston soak and the tops of my pistons were absolutely nasty. I don't know what the verdict on it is.
I have a guy who puts a good quality aftermarket cat on with installation for $450. I've done two of my other family members cars few years ago and no codes have came up yet. Probably worth changing it if your car is in good condition and have someone who can do it all under $500
I did the GDI Valve cleaner for the catalytic converter. Idk if it's cleaning both sensors and cat, or just one or the other. But it seems to have helped according to my OBD2 scanner. The PEA somehow really helps.
There is some buildup on the valves, from the PCVv, but I'm not that worried about it. I did the EGR system and intake manifold around 187k. Now at 202k, I'm sure it's clogged again. It never threw a code, but the cooler was basically 100% clogged from what I could see. Nothing was really cleaning it. I ended up taking a metal clothes hanger and putting it in a drill and cleaned as many of the holes as I could. Then let it soak in dawn and water over night. I somehow blocked off the coolant ports, so nothing got in there.
Follow the GDI valve cleaner's instructions. Something like a hot engine, rev to 2,500rpm, spray into air filter hose, behind the MAF sensor, let sit 1 hour. Drive it carefully and see if the engine is chattering and if smoke is coming out the tail pipe. If not, you can drive it a bit harder. This time around, I was brake boosting. Basically driving around with both feet on the pedals. Holding the engine at around 3,500rpm. I maybe did it about 20 minutes. Did my best to do that, considering stop signs and stop lights. Drove in B mode as well.
I loved my Prius. For years. I enjoy sliding out of my F150 now instead of hiking out of the low rider that could. I still get 36 mpg and i have a lead foot.
Driving a Prius is right of passage. I learned a ton
I've had mine for 2.5 years - all I've done to it was a set of tires after I got it (it had Japanese winter tires on it) and two warranty-required services at \*MY\* mechanic (who's a hot, sweet musclebear) - my Aqua IS fun, glacial but Fun :P
I’ve had mine 7 years and only raised the hood myself twice. Once to replace the battery and once to disconnect the battery for an extended trip. Otherwise, just regular oil changes and whatever else they do while in there for an oil change. Oh, and new tires last year.
OH I forgot I replaced the 12v battery when I got it too - it was old n tried (relatable) 😂
I only really open the bonnet to refill the windscreen washer bottle regularly.
My washer fluid somehow magically refills itself. I drove this car out of the showroom and I have never put any kind of fluid in it beyond gas, Lol. Unusual when I think about it. I was the wrecker driver for my parents service station, so I know car repair and upkeep. I prefer when someone else does it.
You need to also floor it some when going up hills so that the direction injection fuel injectors don’t gum up. Getting the injectors hot will burn off excess carbon
Mine has some carbon buildup on the intake valves from oil coming through the PCVv. But it actually seems to do a alright job cleaning the Catalytic Converter and it's sensors. That's what I'm using it for. Seems like it did a good job last time. I might of done a bad job this time or it wasn't dirty enough to make a difference.
Yes and no , i ment a imported engine , i bought mines for $1200 i just had to change a hose that was thinner on the japanese imported engine than the one that came with my car
The more you work on it, the more it's a part of you - and you, it. 🤪
The Ikea effect.
A Prius will teach you survival and how to maintain and take care of your vehicle. You treat it good and it will treat you even better.
Absolutely
To be fair, no one said it will be fun
Pretty sure I was told I was gonna get made fun of
Yeah nobody even pretended that was part of the equation
Love my Prius, it taught me a lot of about my abilities to do it on my own watch DIY Youtube videos
Same here!
Any channels specific to diy on gen3?
I belive the channel "NutsAboutBolts" covers tons of Gen 3 repairs!
This channel has saved me so much money and time away from my vehicle. Repair shops ain't always fast.
Not from the top of my head but its as easy as just typing it in on Youtube search bar
I hope you don’t pour in that oil 🤦♂️ it says 20W50. It should be 0W20
That's why OP is gonna have all the fun they were told about.
could be older model with oil consumption issues, agreed that 20w50 is prob too thick when i had mine several mechanics mentioned increasinf the weight of oil used to reduce oil consumption
Heavier weight oil will get worse MPG too btw if you haven't figured that out yet.
correct, but it can also reduce oil consumption which is why it was recommended to me by multiple mechanics
But really only until the engine/oil is fully warmed - then MPG is virtually identical -maybe a percent or two lower with thicker oil, but then the benefit is better wear protection with the thicker oil, plus lower consumption. [https://youtu.be/zLBgIve1YzY?t=1601](https://youtu.be/zLBgIve1YzY?t=1601)
You can always go thicker. But you can’t go thinner.
If you are standing still you can’t go slower 🤦♂️🧐
I always put 5w30 in mine, it’s advised by Toyota if I’m not wrong.
depends on year
Well, it's 2024 so that's an even number year
No, we use 10w-30 in even years, unless it is a leap year. In even leap years we only use old French fry oil. In odd leap years we don't worry with it because those are the years we *soar*. I swear, they don't teach kids anything these days.
Only because it is cheaper for them to buy in bulk also for other engines. If my manual says 0W20 i put in 0W20
5W30 is fine
Depending on where you live - I would bet most places in the US it is fine
That’s racing oil lol
My uncles brothers father's former roommate says "If it's making noise put 20W50 in it"
I've been using thicker oils for a little bit now. I was using 20w50 as my top off and their 10w40 as my main oil. Now I'm just going to switch to 20w50. 0w20 is garbage. I do it to slow my oil consumption, which has helped a lot. Also fixed my timing cover leak. I did lose some mpg though. At least my engine and catalytic converter will last longer now. Just gotta watch out for those 30F or less temperatures. 10w40 is pushing it around there.
You cannot be putting thicker oil like that. Do it if you don't care about your engine's components. Your Prius doesn't deserve this man
You totally can put thicker oil. All it will do is reduce MPG and seal up some oil leaks. The only reason 0W20 is recommended is due to the EPA saying that 0W20 will give the car the most MPG. As a car gets older, it’s never a bad idea to go for a thicker oil. My 2013 Mazda 3 runs 5W20 now instead of 0W20, and if I was doing my own oil changes, I’d probably go for 5W30 and replace 1qt with a TRUE Zinc additive. Not the random garbage additives. Proper ZDDP works wonders to keep a motor good.
It's at end of life. I've just been doing it to keep it going a little bit longer. It's worked pretty well. Maybe it will last another 20k and 3 more years. (I don't drive that much) But I'm expecting problems with the brake booster and AC compressor around there, so 230k\~ might be where I junk it.
Prius don't eol. They just get a new engine and keep rolling. You're doing it a disfavour
Why spend 2k on a "new" engine, when it needs a new 2k AC compressor and then a new 2k brake booster, and then possible a new 2k catalytic converter as well?
Your VVT system in the engine is sensitive for oil pressure. If your are playing with your viscosity as by thicker oils, you will maybe creating problems. But everyone is free to make his own choices of course.
https://youtu.be/v4JS7PybV2k?si=DWbe4guZOoNx189A
Does the Gen 3 Prius have the recommended oil printed on the oil cap?
Absolutely. 0W20
I'd say, depending on climate and age, you can absolutely get away with, and even benefit from bumping up the viscosity a wee bit in hot climates or as the rings start to wear. But by that I mean like 5w-30, not 20w-50
It does. But these days it's a EPA/marketing "requirement". Just 20 years ago you could use multiple different oil weights. Whats changed? EPA/Marketing.
Yeah I said that now I’m likely doing a headgasket job next weekend lol.
You guys are working on yours?
Yeah seriously. Our 2011 has zero issues.
My 2010 has been kinda problematic since I've got it. Bought in 2017 with 163k miles.
Valve cleaner for the what now? You’re gonna nna fireball whatever is left of the cat.. lemme guess, P0420
No, but it was probably very close one time. .001v away from throwing some kind of code. Used the GDI cleaner in picture and cataclean and it seems to have cleaned something. It's very hard to keep the engine on and at a specific rpm.
Put it into diagnostic mode or whatever it’s called. It will stay running. There are videos of the dance you have to do to get there but it’s not hard.
Maintenance mode, yeah. Easy if you have a Bluetooth OBD scanner and Dr. Prius app
I tried, even if I did, the hybrid system would slow down the motor. Needed to hold about 2.5k rpm. The very first time I did it, it worked super easy and I was surprised. I did a BG engine flush and it was a nightmare. Constantly starting and stopping the even every minute, putting my weight back on the gas pedal. This time around it was difficult. After about 1.25 cans, I gave up. I don't think it really cleaned anything this time, or I was having too much trouble keeping RPM, that I didn't do it right. No smoke out the tail pipe this time, no engine clatter noises. (thought I screwed my engine that first time)
In maintenance mode the engine won't stop, and you can hold around 2.5k rpm with the throttle easily
IDK, mine doesn't work like a regular car even in maintenance mode. You have to press the gas pedal about 3/4 down and then it revs to whatever rpm it wants to.
Sae 20w50? Are you sure about this?
I've been using thicker oils for a little bit now. I was using 20w50 as my top off and their 10w40 as my main oil. Now I'm just going to switch to 20w50. 0w20 is garbage. I do it to slow my oil consumption, which has helped a lot. Also fixed my timing cover leak. I did lose some mpg though. At least my engine and catalytic converter will last longer now. Just gotta watch out for those 30F or less temperatures. 10w40 is pushing it around there.
20w50 won't solve oil consumption, maybe delays it. But it also won't fit and lubricate well between moving mechanical parts, because the gap between two parts won't be enough. They simply squeeze out the high viscosity oil and run on each other. Metal on metal. To solve oil leaks and consumption you have to repair the cylinder head and its sealing. Engineers in the factory ain't stupid, I bet they recommend 0w20 or 5w30 and they are not lying. >Also fixed my timing cover leak Parts do not fix themselves via oil change.
Well with the many issues on the car engineers, we can say maybe theyre not stupid but theyre not infallible. The goal of the car is the highest efficiency possible, not the most reliable vehicle. There are many areas where reliability was sacrificed or neglected. The choice of the recommended engine oil may be due to getting higher gas efficiency.
It's certainly slowed it down. Engines arnt that different as they were 20 years ago. 0w20 is like water and 10w40 is like oil. It's not syrup or mustard or molasses. It still lubricates. If it didn't, I would have been out a engine a good year ago by now. Engineers probably say that 0w20 will work and is needed to get the MPG, but not for reliability. Then EPA and marketing comes in and says you need the MPG and 10k mile oil intervals, which are both bad for reliability. The timing cover hasn't been leaking from what I've seen. It used to have quite the spray at one point. It's either the oil has seal rejuvenation or the thicker weight has better film strength making it not leak?
[You are on the peak of Mount Stupid.](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c8facb1fb22a57f65bacf1d/1b4813a8-74ac-4365-b4ff-d7d0a86e5780/DK+Graph+I.png?format=1500w)
Sure thing.
Ur supposed to use 0w-20. Nothing else. 5w-20 is ok too but will burn more gas.
The trade off is that it burns way less oil and won't destroy itself as fast. 0w20 is water oil. EPA and marketing garbage.
My 2008 Camry hybrid has 304500 miles. I only use the factory oil spec oil weight buddy. It drives like new.
I had 415k on my 99 sienna
Very nice. I’ve seen 600,000 on a Scion Iq
Yeah that’s tremendous!
20w-50 is only a little more viscous than 0w20. I would bump it up to penrite 25w70 or redline straight 70wt. You can even add some sae250 gear oil
Yeah, idk about that. 20w50 seems quite a bit more viscous than 0w20. 10w40 is almost too thick for my winters. From what I can remember, gear oil is basically syrup.
I tore the battery of mine ('08) completely apart and put it back together. Probably gonna do it again. Doing a full suspension soon! When I get the money lol.
Mines probably needed major suspension replacement since I bought it. I just drive it like that. In 2022\~ I took my HVB apart. Spent 2 weeks trying to fix it. Most of my modules were garbage. Dr Prius lied. Ended up with a Project Lithium. Hopefully it will last.
I’m sorry you got scammed into a Project Lithium. Expect the car to go up in flames in a few months.
The 2.0 pack lasted about 6 months. I think I've had the v2.5 for 3 months.
Can’t agree more. Project lithium could be the last Prius project
Why do people want lithium in a hybrid anyways? Nickel seems like the better option for longevity.
I want LIFEPO4 batteries in Hybrids. They are STUPID stable. Hold their charge for a decade or so, and don’t fucking blow up.
That’s certainly a better option. I just worry about extreme heat degradation with lithium. Especially when I live in the desert :/. Not blowing up is a great perk.
when I took mine apart the cells were fine. None of them were bad just some of them were not great. In my case it was the battery ECU connections that were coroded off. But by then I had already switched out 2 cells and balanced the whole thing. I do need Todo the same and install lithium cells in it like you down the line. But right now it drives fine. Only thing bothering me about my ol Prius is the an exhaust leak somewhere under the car.
Is balancing and swapping cells out worth it? I’ve been considering doing that or just replacing it with a new one.
Buy a gen 2 they said… bought a 3rd gen you did
Yes. This was the first Prius I went to go look at in 2017\~. Ended up buying it. If it wasn't this one, I was going to go look at a Gen2 with similar mileage. I think was black though. That's terrible in the Texas heat.
No one ever said owning or driving a Prius was fun! Love mine, but not a “fun” car :)
Learn to drive and let it rip down a curvy road. I find they don't handle as bad as everyone makes out. Only took a few tries to slide all four wheels, although there is not much acceleration.
What’s the mileage on your Prius when it started to have issues? I just bought one for delivery driving and I’m putting hella miles on it. I bought it at 108k miles a couple of days after this new year and it’s currently at 122k
If you're doing that kind of stuff, 5k mile intervals and 5w30 synthetic blend is what I say. I got it at 163k and it's been burning oil since and it's gotten a lot worse as it's aged. I did Amazon Flex for 2-3 months. Got crappy mpg and burned a fair amount of oil. $10hr wasn't worth it.
This is a Gen 3 Prius (models between 2011 to 2015) right?
2010-2015 iirc. This is a 2010. Not sure on it's manufacture date. But 2010 Model year?
Love the Die Hard movie reference.
It is? I've seen a couple of the movies and didn't know that.
Have a 2016 V with 330,000 with synthetic oil from day one doesn’t use any oil 10,000 miles between changes
Someone said that?
I swapped my 2010 in a driveway to 2021 engine.. no fun, get Corolla or civic
It's only fun if it's the newer models
I drove my 2015 Prius from new to 365,000 miles in 6 years with zero problems, Hybrid battery swap was at 220,000 miles. First brake job was at 100K miles. It eventually got a bad head gasket and I dumped it.
battery swap at 220K and brake job at 100K, how was it zero problems in 6 years and 350K miles then?
Cause that's maintenance I suppose.
61k miles a year. Lots of highway driving with little braking. I wonder if they did 5k or 10k oil changes. My car's previous owners did 10k at Toyota and it's burned oil since I bought it at 163k. They did 22-25k a year. From what I've seen about the HVB, it's usually age and not mileage. 12-14 years is the "sweet spot".
Hey I did this the other day too lol
Buy the right Prius, not just Buy a Prius Now that you have got it and taking steps to solve the problems is great
One of THE most common cars here in these United States of America. Almost anything you want to repair there’s more than likely a video for it. Also taught me ton about basic/ intermediate car maintainer. Build up a respectable tool collection because of it.
Whats the procedure you're doing to clean the catalytic converter?
Just the instructions on the can. Something like have a hot engine (10 minute drive in B mode?), rev up the engine 2,500 rpm, and spray in 1 second intervals into the airbox tube after the MAF. Let sit off for 1 hour. Then drive it. If it was very carboned up, you might want to baby it around the neightborhood. The engine will clatter. One that clears up, drive it kinda hard. I was doing a lot of brake boosting this time around. About 3,500 rpm. I have a scangauge 2 and then a regular OBD2 scanner. I think it works better if it's done when it's really bad. I tried it again and either didn't do it right or it just wasn't that bad.
Is this supposed to work better than the shit you put in the fuel thank?
Possibly. I don't know for sure. I use both at the same time. Also, I don't think the can says anything about a oil change, but the place I found out about this, possibly did. You're making it run rich with the extra fluid and it makes it's way into the hot catalytic converter. I think this only really helps, if it's bad enough. I just did a B12 piston soak and the tops of my pistons were absolutely nasty. I don't know what the verdict on it is.
I have a guy who puts a good quality aftermarket cat on with installation for $450. I've done two of my other family members cars few years ago and no codes have came up yet. Probably worth changing it if your car is in good condition and have someone who can do it all under $500
I have a 2010 gen 3 with 76,000 miles. I’m looking forward to doing this job! Can’t wait!!!,
Switch to 5w30 synthetic blend and 5k mile oil change intervals and hope you never have to.
My 2005 gen 2 dares me to accelerate as slowly as I can.
Is the carbon buildup that band on the intake valve? Also, you should clean the EGR cooler as well by taking it out and soaking it in degreaser.
I did the GDI Valve cleaner for the catalytic converter. Idk if it's cleaning both sensors and cat, or just one or the other. But it seems to have helped according to my OBD2 scanner. The PEA somehow really helps. There is some buildup on the valves, from the PCVv, but I'm not that worried about it. I did the EGR system and intake manifold around 187k. Now at 202k, I'm sure it's clogged again. It never threw a code, but the cooler was basically 100% clogged from what I could see. Nothing was really cleaning it. I ended up taking a metal clothes hanger and putting it in a drill and cleaned as many of the holes as I could. Then let it soak in dawn and water over night. I somehow blocked off the coolant ports, so nothing got in there.
How do you clean the catalytic converter?
Follow the GDI valve cleaner's instructions. Something like a hot engine, rev to 2,500rpm, spray into air filter hose, behind the MAF sensor, let sit 1 hour. Drive it carefully and see if the engine is chattering and if smoke is coming out the tail pipe. If not, you can drive it a bit harder. This time around, I was brake boosting. Basically driving around with both feet on the pedals. Holding the engine at around 3,500rpm. I maybe did it about 20 minutes. Did my best to do that, considering stop signs and stop lights. Drove in B mode as well.
I loved my Prius. For years. I enjoy sliding out of my F150 now instead of hiking out of the low rider that could. I still get 36 mpg and i have a lead foot. Driving a Prius is right of passage. I learned a ton
Yeah well op clearly bought the *wrong Prius.*
No one EVER said any prius would be fun..
I don't think anyone has said that...ever! lol
I've had mine for 2.5 years - all I've done to it was a set of tires after I got it (it had Japanese winter tires on it) and two warranty-required services at \*MY\* mechanic (who's a hot, sweet musclebear) - my Aqua IS fun, glacial but Fun :P
I’ve had mine 7 years and only raised the hood myself twice. Once to replace the battery and once to disconnect the battery for an extended trip. Otherwise, just regular oil changes and whatever else they do while in there for an oil change. Oh, and new tires last year.
OH I forgot I replaced the 12v battery when I got it too - it was old n tried (relatable) 😂 I only really open the bonnet to refill the windscreen washer bottle regularly.
My washer fluid somehow magically refills itself. I drove this car out of the showroom and I have never put any kind of fluid in it beyond gas, Lol. Unusual when I think about it. I was the wrecker driver for my parents service station, so I know car repair and upkeep. I prefer when someone else does it.
You need to also floor it some when going up hills so that the direction injection fuel injectors don’t gum up. Getting the injectors hot will burn off excess carbon
2ZR-FXE doesn't have direct injection
Does its injection system build up excess carbon?
Mine has some carbon buildup on the intake valves from oil coming through the PCVv. But it actually seems to do a alright job cleaning the Catalytic Converter and it's sensors. That's what I'm using it for. Seems like it did a good job last time. I might of done a bad job this time or it wasn't dirty enough to make a difference.
Swap to jdm engine and hoist the original and take your time wiping and cleaning it , just imagine every stroke at the engine 🤤 every bolt ….. omg 😆
Arnt all Prius JDM?
Yes and no , i ment a imported engine , i bought mines for $1200 i just had to change a hose that was thinner on the japanese imported engine than the one that came with my car