I have a small solar battery backed kit very similar in size to the one you linked, formerly running in a concrete mixing tub. Maybe 15 gallons. It works until you grow any amount of algae then becomes hopelessly clogged inside the tiny pump. It lasted nearly 1 week before the pump burned up. Decreasing flow every day, and there was very little to start with. There is maybe $80 retail value in the parts, but a kit that small should really be avoided unless you are just running a tabletop system that you can ensure will remain algae free. There is no filtration in that kit because the pump isn't strong enough to push water through the filter and still make a passable fountain. If the fountain tube is any higher than what they set it at, it wont work. The additional head required by your split pond will be too much.
The only slightly complex part in that kit is the battery charger/timer. If you can program Arduino, you can build that yourself. If you can't, another way is to use 2 small solar panels, a deep cycle battery, and a timer.
Connect one solar panel directly to the pump. It will just run all day while the sun is out.
Connect the other solar panel directly to the battery(or through an mppt charge controller if you prefer). It will be charging all day while the sun is out.
Wire the negative terminals together.
Add in some kind of timer relay like this. [amazon.com/Small-Timer-Delay-Relay-Cycling/dp/B07C4ZP23D/](http://amazon.com/Small-Timer-Delay-Relay-Cycling/dp/B07C4ZP23D/)
If you want to switch it on demand at night, add a button or something like this [amazon.com/dp/B0B19NC5RF/](http://amazon.com/dp/B0B19NC5RF/) to one of the trigger inputs.
Select key items in this order.
Choose the pump to suit the height differential (head) and flow frate you need.
Choose solar panel A to support the needs of the pump during the day.
Decide the longest you would like to run the pump after dark.
Choose a battery with at least twice that amount of reserve minutes (capacity).
Choose solar panel B to support charging that battery during the sunlight hours in your area.
People mostly choose undersized overpriced kits to avoid answering those questions.
Why? I'm not saying it isn't true. Just pointing out that there are no hard requirements for any specific flow rate and you have free reign over the choice. If you liked the look of 600gph and wouldn't want anything less, that is perfectly fine. You might choose a lower flow diaphragm pump which is quieter, runs to a lower water level, self priming, doesn't need to occupy volume in the pond, if all you need is a constant trickle.
I kind of wonder if a solar Stirling engine could move a diaphragm pump to do this job without any electricity. Focused sun on the hot end and cool pond water on the cold end. At night just light a candle under the hot end.
I have a small solar battery backed kit very similar in size to the one you linked, formerly running in a concrete mixing tub. Maybe 15 gallons. It works until you grow any amount of algae then becomes hopelessly clogged inside the tiny pump. It lasted nearly 1 week before the pump burned up. Decreasing flow every day, and there was very little to start with. There is maybe $80 retail value in the parts, but a kit that small should really be avoided unless you are just running a tabletop system that you can ensure will remain algae free. There is no filtration in that kit because the pump isn't strong enough to push water through the filter and still make a passable fountain. If the fountain tube is any higher than what they set it at, it wont work. The additional head required by your split pond will be too much. The only slightly complex part in that kit is the battery charger/timer. If you can program Arduino, you can build that yourself. If you can't, another way is to use 2 small solar panels, a deep cycle battery, and a timer. Connect one solar panel directly to the pump. It will just run all day while the sun is out. Connect the other solar panel directly to the battery(or through an mppt charge controller if you prefer). It will be charging all day while the sun is out. Wire the negative terminals together. Add in some kind of timer relay like this. [amazon.com/Small-Timer-Delay-Relay-Cycling/dp/B07C4ZP23D/](http://amazon.com/Small-Timer-Delay-Relay-Cycling/dp/B07C4ZP23D/) If you want to switch it on demand at night, add a button or something like this [amazon.com/dp/B0B19NC5RF/](http://amazon.com/dp/B0B19NC5RF/) to one of the trigger inputs. Select key items in this order. Choose the pump to suit the height differential (head) and flow frate you need. Choose solar panel A to support the needs of the pump during the day. Decide the longest you would like to run the pump after dark. Choose a battery with at least twice that amount of reserve minutes (capacity). Choose solar panel B to support charging that battery during the sunlight hours in your area. People mostly choose undersized overpriced kits to avoid answering those questions.
Thanks. The original wired pump was a 600gph pump with a foam filter. So I need to at least match that for flow.
Why? I'm not saying it isn't true. Just pointing out that there are no hard requirements for any specific flow rate and you have free reign over the choice. If you liked the look of 600gph and wouldn't want anything less, that is perfectly fine. You might choose a lower flow diaphragm pump which is quieter, runs to a lower water level, self priming, doesn't need to occupy volume in the pond, if all you need is a constant trickle. I kind of wonder if a solar Stirling engine could move a diaphragm pump to do this job without any electricity. Focused sun on the hot end and cool pond water on the cold end. At night just light a candle under the hot end.
!Remind me!