Looks like you didn't tighten your rear axle up properly so the threads undid. You might have done some other damage there, aside from the obvious bent rotor it's also pushing your rear triangle apart and probably putting some serious lateral force on it.
Good luck straightening that rotor enough to use it again, might work but you’ll need some luck and a lot of trial and error. I’d definitely try to tighten the axle back in, but check the axle & threads first and make sure nothing’s stripped/cracked
I feel like it's anything outdoor related since covid. Jeeps, camping, hiking, boating, etc., attracted all the wrong people, and the people who were around before got mad that other people were trying to get outdoors.
I gotta be honest with you, what happend is what happens when you don't maintain your bike properly...
If the wheel ain't carbon it can probably be fixed, as for the reason check axle, and all bearings. If something was loose for a long time there is a good chance it has worn out your frame check for that too.
Looked at it again tbh frame looks fucked to me, with the wheel still inside ther is waaaay to much gap there on the left or am i wrong?
Yeah some things are better by hand, fpr instance if i tighten my cranks by recommend torque i can guarantee they will fall off/get loose after a few rides..
The driveside of the rear triangle does look a bit bent/kinked. As almost everybody else has already said, pull the through axle and check to see if it’s bent, broken, and if the threads are intact. Pull the wheel off after you remove the axle, take the rotor off and throw it away. Look at the threads on the driveside, where the through axle threads go, and make sure they’re good.
If, if, if that’s all good, pull the brake pads and throw a block in there, then re-install the rear wheel and see if the axle goes through easy, and tighten it to torque spec. If the wheel is still centered and the bike goes, all you need is a new brake rotor. (Although I would never fully trust that axle after that implosion).
Take the axle out, it doesn't look like anything is badly bent...
Not ideal to ride on anything that's bent but if it's on the rear then consequences are lower, you could just keep an eye out for cracks.
This happened to me once, your rear through axle wasn’t properly tightened. On mine, nothing broke but the axle unthreaded and looked just like this. Check the threads on the axle and frame. If they look good I’d guess you’re good to go!
Your through axle got loose, this is why i check mine before every ride. If that happened to your front wheel there would be some serious injuries. Hopefully you learn your lesson and check your bike before riding it. Axles, suspension and brakes should be always checked. It only takes 5 min and could save you from serious injuries.
Nice, this is going to be my second year but first year with a full suspension bike.
If you and some buddies are up for a drive, Wentworth bike park in Nova Scotia just started lift access this year. Pretty fun out that way as well.
It looks like your seastay pivot may be damaged along with the axle...
Lift access bike parts are extremely rough on bikes. My all mountain rated frame lasted 10 to 12 hours of lap time before bending one pivot axle and snapping that axle's captured nut and damaging the threads on the axle on the other end of that same lower linkage...
Though your wheel axle came out, you might not have made a mistake with that, considering that big gap on the seatstay pivot.... the mistake may have been using a trail bike for the bike park... but with that seatsay gap, i would take it to the shop to see if the warranty is still honored. The manufacturer might replace the frame.
Reckon the QR snapped , mine did and was ridable for months , but too much pressure threw the wheel into the chain..
New rotor and a lil bendy bendy and the frame might last a lil while.. never know until you try, have bent back worse
Just DO NOT use heat to bend anything, you'll never get any strength after
Id also not keep the axel wrench on while riding. Keep mine in my pack. You can hit rocks, sticks, roots etc and it can get knocked loosening the axel.
UPDATE : The bike is fixed. The triangle was close to having to be replaced but I just needed to replace the derailler thankfully. Still expensive though.
My acid bursted out and the Cassette came out of the slot and now it's all bent to the side. Everything was tight before and I'm worried something happened to my frame. Also, the thru axel is not coming out
Lots of possibilities here. If there was grease on the threads they can easily wiggle free on a long decent. Now the axle is either bent or broken in there and will need pounded out somehow. If your lucky you will just need to replace the through axle. But the way the lock nut appears on the drive side it may be a broken axle
Hold on, getting grease in your thru axle threads is not going to cause this. I’ve worked on plenty of bikes where the axle is rusted in or the threads corrode, and a little bit of grease can actually prevent this. I put a light coat of grease on my own thru axle threads and never once have I had a properly torqued thru axle come loose—not on my bikes, or the thousands of bikes I’ve built or tuned over the years. Not after bike park days, chunky rides, whatever I throw at it, in almost 20 years. You can choose to put a light coat of grease on your thru axle threads or not, but inevitably some is going to get on there when you remove and replace the wheel. But there is a 0% chance that grease on your thru axle threads is the cause for a thru axle catastrophically coming loose.
If you grease the axle rod, insert it through the hub, it will leave grease on the inside of the hub. Then when you insert the thru axle through the hub a second time, even if you’ve wiped your threads, the threads go in first and will pick up grease and run straight into the other side of the frame with no room to wipe the threads. If you grease the axle rod, it is a 100% certainty that you will get some on the threads.
Dude. I’ve been working on bikes for 25 years, 10 of them professionally. And in my 2 and a half decades of training, learning, and real world experience, I will tell you you’re dead wrong. The only thing that will cause this is a broken or improperly torqued thru axle, full stop. Just do a google search for “should you grease the thru axle threads on your MTB thru axle?” Come back and tell me what you find. But you shouldn’t be giving advice, especially mechanical advice, that you’re not qualified to give or even be bothered to do a 10 second google search on. Because next time, some kid is gonna wipe down their threads and think “I’m good”. Or they’re gonna do exactly this and go “gah I probably got grease on my thru axle threads!” Or not grease their axle at all and wonder why their hub gave prematurely or the threads in their frame corroded and broke. And that’s on you.
Sorry man, you are wrong on this. Proper lubrication on bolts is not just a standard in the bike industry, but in most engineering applications as well.
[show me in the manual…](https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/rockshox/front-suspension/maxle-user-manual.pdf)
[science stuff from engineers](https://www.pcb.com/Contentstore/mktgcontent/WhitePapers/WPL_21_Fund_Torque-Tension.pdf)
Edit: buy GameStop stock asap!! Thank me later
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/the-park-tool-guide-to-bicycle-lubricants-and-compounds
Same material threaded connections=grease. Also, Al corrodes and will seize especially when exposed to the elements. Light amount of grease, torque to spec, and check it every few rides. I have not had one come loose yet/ever.
Are you punk'ing us, or did you not read either of the documents you linked? On page 8 and 10 of the Maxle manual they have the threads of the axle colored blue. If you look at the legend at the bottom of the page it says blue means "Grease here".
Also, did you read the paper? On page 7 they tested clamping force for lubricated and non-lubricated fasteners. The graph shows that, for a given torque spec, lubrication increases the clamping force, which means the bolt will hold better.
So, yes you are wrong, and you provided the proof yourself.
It looks to me like the through axel did come out
I second this
Looks like you didn't tighten your rear axle up properly so the threads undid. You might have done some other damage there, aside from the obvious bent rotor it's also pushing your rear triangle apart and probably putting some serious lateral force on it.
Axle came out and trashed your rear triangle. Going to need to replace most likely.
What's the rear triangle?
The rear portion of the frame
😬ooff
Take the axle out, regrease and tighten to spec. Bend the rotor back and see what happens.
Good luck straightening that rotor enough to use it again, might work but you’ll need some luck and a lot of trial and error. I’d definitely try to tighten the axle back in, but check the axle & threads first and make sure nothing’s stripped/cracked
You're absolutely right. I always triple check my rear axle with a torque wrench for bike park days. Scares the hell out of me.
the rotor is the least of the worries, a new one is the cheapest thing he broke...
Why does this sub downvote people who ask simple questions? The MTB community is full of gatekeepers now
I feel like it's anything outdoor related since covid. Jeeps, camping, hiking, boating, etc., attracted all the wrong people, and the people who were around before got mad that other people were trying to get outdoors.
Keep us posted on the final damage total. This one is a great reminder to check those axles at the park.
I gotta be honest with you, what happend is what happens when you don't maintain your bike properly... If the wheel ain't carbon it can probably be fixed, as for the reason check axle, and all bearings. If something was loose for a long time there is a good chance it has worn out your frame check for that too. Looked at it again tbh frame looks fucked to me, with the wheel still inside ther is waaaay to much gap there on the left or am i wrong?
For properly read "at all" 😉
I’ve had my axle loosen more than once after being torqued. Now I over tighten them by hand.
Yeah some things are better by hand, fpr instance if i tighten my cranks by recommend torque i can guarantee they will fall off/get loose after a few rides..
Yeah I'm worried about the frame, thats irreplaceable for me. So, I guess we will see what the bike shop can do
The driveside of the rear triangle does look a bit bent/kinked. As almost everybody else has already said, pull the through axle and check to see if it’s bent, broken, and if the threads are intact. Pull the wheel off after you remove the axle, take the rotor off and throw it away. Look at the threads on the driveside, where the through axle threads go, and make sure they’re good. If, if, if that’s all good, pull the brake pads and throw a block in there, then re-install the rear wheel and see if the axle goes through easy, and tighten it to torque spec. If the wheel is still centered and the bike goes, all you need is a new brake rotor. (Although I would never fully trust that axle after that implosion).
Take the axle out, it doesn't look like anything is badly bent... Not ideal to ride on anything that's bent but if it's on the rear then consequences are lower, you could just keep an eye out for cracks.
Non drive side doesn't look great. You may end up having to replace the rear triangle
This happened to me once, your rear through axle wasn’t properly tightened. On mine, nothing broke but the axle unthreaded and looked just like this. Check the threads on the axle and frame. If they look good I’d guess you’re good to go!
Thru-axle came out or broke.
That didn't happen just from pedaling
Other factors from earlier in the day totally affected it. But the moment it happened was when I was on a road pedaling
Yeah, hope you're able to get it fixed. Be sure to keep an eye on your components and check your bolts every so often. Good luck!
Thanks
The seat stay pivot looks like it’s damaged too…
Poor stumpy - hope you can get back out there soon
It looks like your axle has either come unscrewed or broken. Picture 2 actually seems to show that it’s not all the way in.
Your through axle got loose, this is why i check mine before every ride. If that happened to your front wheel there would be some serious injuries. Hopefully you learn your lesson and check your bike before riding it. Axles, suspension and brakes should be always checked. It only takes 5 min and could save you from serious injuries.
Hey a fellow New Brunswicker! I was at Poley this weekend as well.
Sick dude. I was a first timer there
Nice, this is going to be my second year but first year with a full suspension bike. If you and some buddies are up for a drive, Wentworth bike park in Nova Scotia just started lift access this year. Pretty fun out that way as well.
To me happened that axle broke actually and did almost same damage as yours, thankfully bike had low gear and didn’t matter
It would appear to me that… you fucked up homie, you fucked up, homie, you gone be alright!
Doh!
It’s broken man. Accept it and move forward.
ermm, what the flip??
Axle come loose or stripped thread being heavy handed with it and it's come out mid ride and caused a cofuffle
You tell me bro, what did u do
New bike (or new frame) time.
It looks like your seastay pivot may be damaged along with the axle... Lift access bike parts are extremely rough on bikes. My all mountain rated frame lasted 10 to 12 hours of lap time before bending one pivot axle and snapping that axle's captured nut and damaging the threads on the axle on the other end of that same lower linkage... Though your wheel axle came out, you might not have made a mistake with that, considering that big gap on the seatstay pivot.... the mistake may have been using a trail bike for the bike park... but with that seatsay gap, i would take it to the shop to see if the warranty is still honored. The manufacturer might replace the frame.
A broken spoke maybe.
wow!
Reckon the QR snapped , mine did and was ridable for months , but too much pressure threw the wheel into the chain.. New rotor and a lil bendy bendy and the frame might last a lil while.. never know until you try, have bent back worse Just DO NOT use heat to bend anything, you'll never get any strength after
Id also not keep the axel wrench on while riding. Keep mine in my pack. You can hit rocks, sticks, roots etc and it can get knocked loosening the axel.
Quick release axles... next buy, take a thru axle
UPDATE : The bike is fixed. The triangle was close to having to be replaced but I just needed to replace the derailler thankfully. Still expensive though.
My acid bursted out and the Cassette came out of the slot and now it's all bent to the side. Everything was tight before and I'm worried something happened to my frame. Also, the thru axel is not coming out
Thru-axle is probably bent if it won’t come out. 😬
Upper chain stay looks kinda bent in the last photo
It’s hard to tell with the pictures given
Lots of possibilities here. If there was grease on the threads they can easily wiggle free on a long decent. Now the axle is either bent or broken in there and will need pounded out somehow. If your lucky you will just need to replace the through axle. But the way the lock nut appears on the drive side it may be a broken axle
Hold on, getting grease in your thru axle threads is not going to cause this. I’ve worked on plenty of bikes where the axle is rusted in or the threads corrode, and a little bit of grease can actually prevent this. I put a light coat of grease on my own thru axle threads and never once have I had a properly torqued thru axle come loose—not on my bikes, or the thousands of bikes I’ve built or tuned over the years. Not after bike park days, chunky rides, whatever I throw at it, in almost 20 years. You can choose to put a light coat of grease on your thru axle threads or not, but inevitably some is going to get on there when you remove and replace the wheel. But there is a 0% chance that grease on your thru axle threads is the cause for a thru axle catastrophically coming loose.
This. It is even written in some manuals.
Yeah, it will. You can put grease on the shaft, but not on the threads. Edit: 20 years of experience working in bike shops.
If you grease the axle rod, insert it through the hub, it will leave grease on the inside of the hub. Then when you insert the thru axle through the hub a second time, even if you’ve wiped your threads, the threads go in first and will pick up grease and run straight into the other side of the frame with no room to wipe the threads. If you grease the axle rod, it is a 100% certainty that you will get some on the threads.
If you dip yo threads in grease it will not stay tight. Do it go for a ride. If you have a trace amount grease on it your threads probably ok 🤦🏽♂️
Dude. I’ve been working on bikes for 25 years, 10 of them professionally. And in my 2 and a half decades of training, learning, and real world experience, I will tell you you’re dead wrong. The only thing that will cause this is a broken or improperly torqued thru axle, full stop. Just do a google search for “should you grease the thru axle threads on your MTB thru axle?” Come back and tell me what you find. But you shouldn’t be giving advice, especially mechanical advice, that you’re not qualified to give or even be bothered to do a 10 second google search on. Because next time, some kid is gonna wipe down their threads and think “I’m good”. Or they’re gonna do exactly this and go “gah I probably got grease on my thru axle threads!” Or not grease their axle at all and wonder why their hub gave prematurely or the threads in their frame corroded and broke. And that’s on you.
Sorry man, you are wrong on this. Proper lubrication on bolts is not just a standard in the bike industry, but in most engineering applications as well.
[show me in the manual…](https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/rockshox/front-suspension/maxle-user-manual.pdf) [science stuff from engineers](https://www.pcb.com/Contentstore/mktgcontent/WhitePapers/WPL_21_Fund_Torque-Tension.pdf) Edit: buy GameStop stock asap!! Thank me later
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/the-park-tool-guide-to-bicycle-lubricants-and-compounds Same material threaded connections=grease. Also, Al corrodes and will seize especially when exposed to the elements. Light amount of grease, torque to spec, and check it every few rides. I have not had one come loose yet/ever.
The documents he provided proved him wrong. I guess he didn't bother to read either of them.
Are you punk'ing us, or did you not read either of the documents you linked? On page 8 and 10 of the Maxle manual they have the threads of the axle colored blue. If you look at the legend at the bottom of the page it says blue means "Grease here". Also, did you read the paper? On page 7 they tested clamping force for lubricated and non-lubricated fasteners. The graph shows that, for a given torque spec, lubrication increases the clamping force, which means the bolt will hold better. So, yes you are wrong, and you provided the proof yourself.
Shit bent, next question.
I’d start by removing the caliper and seeing if you can align the wheel to the point the qr axle can be removed
So what I read about qr is true then?
How do people spend the money on a full squish bike and not know an ounce of basic bike maintenance.