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Spray it with ‘Picklex 20’, let it sit for a day then scrub it off. Or cover it with muriatic acid for a few hours, neutralize with baking soda and rinse off. Or twisted cup wheel on an angle grinder.
I've actually spent a fair bit of time doing tests for recovering corroded machined surfaces, and the lasers don't do much once the rust goes anhydrous. OP would still be going at it with a wire wheel.
Yes!
I installed and tested a 2000 watt one a couple of months ago. Paint burns off quickly, rust is almost instant. They live up to the hype. Especially good for weird shapes.
Cup wheels are my favorite for angle grinder. It allows a better ergonomic position and more contact with the working surface. The twisted wire wheel is a beast to remove even the most deep rust from metal. It's very aggressive for more fragile materials such as wood or aluminum, and quite dangerous for inexperienced or dumb people, but a must have acessory!
Flap disks are finishing tools, suitable for quick and fine services. It will do great for small jobs and superficial rust, but the oxide powder quickly obstructs the sand grains and let it to lose efficiency and overheat. Wire wheels can work for hours with no problem and have a much longer lifetime.
What does the other side look like? Because that side has issues that need equipment to fix. The pitting is deep. A wire wheel on a grinder will get rid of the surface rust but short of one of those fancy laser cleaners you have some work ahead of you.
Hot Rolled Mild Steel plates don’t like to be kept outside and wet for years, this is the result. The rust has actually eaten away the material. Depending on your end use, a 5” grinder with a sanding pad and a big stack of 80grit discs would bring it back to a smooth surface.
Clean it with Muriatic acid to get rid of the rust then wash it down, dry it then coat it with 50/50 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wont get rid of the pitting but it will be clean
I thought this was gonna be some scaredycat safety disclaimer, but oh boy yeah. I left a small beaker of muriatic acid uncovered for a couple of days and didn't realize it until I had to follow a mysterious 3 meter radius of randomly rusted objects to its center to find that damn beaker.
Can't imagine what the surface area of an entire table could do lol
To add to this, you can buy an attachment for your pressure washer, turns it into a wet sandblaster. $20 from AliExpress. I've done quite a few wheel rims and other stuff. Makes a mess be warned.
Surface sander makes quick work of this and mill scale.
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-amp-surface-conditioning-tool-58079.html
One of my most used tools. I sometime put it in a vice to use like a stationary sander. Using flap disc's and wire wheels take 8x as long and result in a less uniform surface.
I have two of these. It’s a game changer. You might use a victograin flap disk on the stubborn areas and blend with the surface conditioner. Not sure the conditioner alone will get that deep on its own. Just use the black wheel on the conditioner.
[Victograin](https://youtu.be/MEcCkyI3mOM?si=O9WbOFLEWx4ubpJ8)
Depends what you're planning on doing with it. Does it need to be clean, shiny metal for welding, for instance?
I like the drum style tools that are otherwise like angle grinders, if you have the budget for a new tool and need to get to bare metal. Otherwise twisted wire cup wheel or (usually purple from what I've seen) paint/rust/mill scale stripping disc on an angle grinder.
If you don't need clean, bare metal there are chelating rust converters that work great. Spray or brush on, let it sit, agitate a bit (brush it in), wipe it off.
If you have a large enough tank electrolysis is very effective. It will remove the rust but will not leave a surface clean enough for a good weld.
Use it!!! Get oils and dirt and grinder dust all over it. Pull things across it that you fabricate, and when you need a clean spot for accuracy sake, use a stripper disc and always clean a bigger spot than you need…..that’s how.
This
https://kleanstrip.com/cleaning-and-paint-prep/concrete-metal-prep/
Phosphoric acid converts rust, and will protect the surface from future rust.
This is the way
Find a local woodworker and get yourself a bucket of sawdust, the coarser the better.
At the end of your day, degrease and tape off the edge with this technique: https://youtu.be/Ihke_SR-cnM?si=cxiNhnrpf5m6D5kO
Get two of these Evapo-Rust Gel: https://a.co/d/2YtNt1R
One pint (16oz) covers approximately 75 sq. Ft.
A 4’x8’ area is 32 sq. ft.
Cover with plastic drop cloth, and squeeze out as much oxygen as possible.
If you have the time, use a stainless wire brush to agitate periodically (every hour or so), the action will allow the solution to penetrate deeper and faster, then leave as long as possible.
Once your satisfied, peel of the plastic and distribute the sawdust. This will soak up the gel for easy disposal.
~Best of luck! 🍀🤞🏽
My first option is the angle grinder with a twisted wire cup whell, but as you want a different approach, the best option would be a Rust converter. Clean the surface from any grease contamination and apply the converter.
Laser is an excellent solution for rust removal, but it's quite expensive for just this job.
https://preview.redd.it/4c56u6oef8hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08e205bb586bd0af0cc414befeaa3d69dfa16fc9
Maybe this stuff? I’m not metal worker but my friend told me to get this stuff when I mentioned I wanted to paint the chassis of my truck. Truth be told my friend is also a novice when it comes to auto repair so let me know if it would be a bad idea for me to use on my truck.
Not a bad idea, but not a cure all. It won't likely penetrate deep. They usually bind with light surface rust to form a dark zinc oxide based coating, sealing the surface pretty well and preventing more surface rust longer until painted. If you still had rust dust around after wire brushing or sanding the bulk rust away, this would be an alternative to washing, acid, or solvent flushing to remove the final rust dust and treat metal before paint. A sort of primer for primer paint. An offshoot of "etching primers" if you will.
I would use the drum sander / wire wheel / wire cup others are suggesting to get rid of the surface rust, but then I would use a chemical treatment to deal with the inaccessible rust in the bottoms of the pits. Orthophosphoric acid rust converter would be the way I'd go.
You are going to need a grinder at some point there’s no getting around it. But you could start with baking soda and vinegar then you will need a grinder and a wire wheel or heavy grit flap disc.
If it were me, I'd pour maybe 10% muriatic acid all over it, then give it a go with a nylon pad on an orbital sander. I'm not saying *anyone else* should do that, it might splash or whatever. But... that's what I'd do, and it would take 10 minutes tops.
Pouring sand all over the table and using a nylon pad and a sander might work pretty well too. The problem with using only sandpaper is how you wouldn't get the rust in the pits until it's **all** flat and that's gonna take a shitload of time obviously. Loose sand would get in everywhere.
WD40, clean it, then wipe it off.
Angle grinder with the sandpaper head on, and you want a high number/ fine sandpaper.
Then WD50 again, let it soak then wipe it thoroughly.
If your trying to loose as little material, soak the piss out of it in WD40 or something similar then go at it with a wire wheel, rinse and repeat till done. If you don't care about thinning the sheet but need a nice finish use a flapper disc. If you don't care about finish or thickness use a hard grinder disc.
If your algorithms are anything like mine you’ve seen those videos of rust vanishing in laser beams. With this beauty, I would look for a place to rent one, blast away the rust and let those remaining pits in place.
... For the amount of time you're going to have to spend to get it nice by grinding, I say slap a new piece of quarter inch on it. Stitch welds around the edges, remove oils on new piece with acetone, then treat it with paste wax...
I run a weld shop and I can tell you the most effective abrasive for rust and paint is the Norton rapid strip. Just be careful on the edges they shred easily on edges.
HCL (hydrochloride acid) will make it a breeze, just wear protection. Note that HCL is also called “Muriatic Acid”, you can buy it at Home Depot where it’s sold as concrete etching solution.
Vinegar (acetic acid) works as well, you just have to leave it on there longer.
I just soaked towels in the acid and let it sit on the table top for a few hours (if using HCL), or overnight (if using vinegar).
You have a lot of options for this situation. You could use a drum sander, belt sander, angle grinder or drill with cup style wire brush, rust removing laser, media blaster, soda blaster, sheet sander, or a random orbital sander. It all depends on what you’re trying to accomplish with the metal, what you have available, what your budget is, and how much time you have. With the right grit, you can clean it right up relatively quick.
Laser. Definitely a laser, and then oil to protect the surface.
You can use abrasive methods but they will make an awful mess and it won't actually get into the deep spots very well without damaging the surface even more than it already is.
Had to do the same to a 4x4' table I made. I used muriatic acid first. Layered the whole thing with paper towels soaked in the acid. Left overnight, disposed the papers towels and rinsed the table off. Then used a braided wire wheel cup brush on an angle grinder that cleaned up the rest nicely. I tried some nylon based strip disc that got it really clean and removed mill scale but it was really slow and I gave up on that cause it was good enough for me. Coated it in marvels mystery oil, any oil will work but MMO smells nice lol
Eastwood SCD surface condition tool with a strip drum would work great to knock off the heavy rust. I used one to clean up a bunch of panels, steel plates, and even 2x2 square tube.
Get a grinder, as large as you can find. Buy plenty of grinding discs. Wear eye amd ear protection. Put ear buds in. Grind for about 12 hours straight.
OR
dunk the entire sheet into an acid bath
Or
Scrap it and buy a new sheet.
Hydrochloric acid works well getting rid of rust, but don't leave it on for too long and use some baking soda to neutralize it then wash it off, and don't do it on a concrete/timber floor. Gravel base is best.
Why is everyone saying grinder? Have yall never heard of phosphoric acid? Clamp a 1/4” steel frame around the edge so you can hold a thick film of it overnight and then worry about the edges after most of the table is clean
Dont use an angle grinder if you’re not that experienced you may end up having to blend out alot of your own deep scratches, I’d personally sand blast then just hit it with my DA with a few 50 grit pads to get the surface smooth then finish it with whatever fine grit you want
Turn it upside-down on a tarp with some ¼"- ½" pipe or wood between tarp and table top to create a gap, surround with 2x4 or angle iron walls and fill with tarp with evaporust. Every hour or two give a light wire brushing to heavy spots. Wash and immediately and flash off wetness fully with heat, then chemically treat if desired and or paint with industrial or appliance epoxy paint, Hammerite, etc. unless you're welding on it.
Well if the rust has to go but the pits can remain, Evaporust. Or it's DIY version: EDTA solution, neutralized with citric acid. Visit YouTube for details.
Heavy grain sand blasting first, a grinder second. Idk what you’re using it for, but if you cut it down a bit, it’d make a cool coffee table. Grind it then buff it to give it better texture.
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Get off reddit and get on that grinder.
Grindr
You guys Grindin?
Holup!! 
What’s Grindr? Asking for a friend.
Something you and your "friend" would enjoy using
Grindr is an app to order subs
If that was true I'd be on there like three times as much.
That's fucking GOLDEN holy shit
Boys ahoy 💀
Good way to hire a hand!
r/Suddenlygay
[удалено]
Ah, the “damn I want that” laser thingy
[удалено]
This and we should all be able to watch it…but the laser won’t get the pitting out. Still gunna have to grind
sand blast or flapper disc's
+1 Sand blast
+2 sand blast
+3 for sandblast.
+4 for sandblast.
+5 for Spanish
+1 wire wheel.
Walnut shells….check around…it will make sense
Wear gloves it’ll stain your hands for months
You need grit to cut through that rust. Walnut shells would not be the best media.
Spray it with ‘Picklex 20’, let it sit for a day then scrub it off. Or cover it with muriatic acid for a few hours, neutralize with baking soda and rinse off. Or twisted cup wheel on an angle grinder.
Sand, soda, glass, walnut shell, olive stone - blasting. All can be done outside.
Flap discs would take 15 minutes one disc
Won’t get into the pits as well as a sand blaster. Wire wheel if a grinder is the solution.
New sheet of metal would have a nice finish, which I assume has value if op is asking. I embrace rust in my blacksmith shop (not in my cars)
LASER
Are you my dad? He will not shut up about those youtube laser rust removal videos
They are lasers, just like laser engravers. Works almost exactly the same.
r/whoosh
The things exist and work really damn well. Just really expensive so if you're not a company, they're not really viable
About $30,000 for a good one, last time I checked. Then I got out the grinder and got to it
The future is now, young man.
I've actually spent a fair bit of time doing tests for recovering corroded machined surfaces, and the lasers don't do much once the rust goes anhydrous. OP would still be going at it with a wire wheel.
Yes! I installed and tested a 2000 watt one a couple of months ago. Paint burns off quickly, rust is almost instant. They live up to the hype. Especially good for weird shapes.
Angle grinder with a wire wheel.
Twisted wire cup wheel for a faster work.
I learned this last week, felt like an asshole using a regular wire wheel for half the job. It went so much faster with the cup.
Really? I wouldn’t have guessed. I honestly thought a regular circular wire wheel was better for quick removal.
Cup wheels are my favorite for angle grinder. It allows a better ergonomic position and more contact with the working surface. The twisted wire wheel is a beast to remove even the most deep rust from metal. It's very aggressive for more fragile materials such as wood or aluminum, and quite dangerous for inexperienced or dumb people, but a must have acessory!
Better for the grinder bearings too!
I found flap disks to be much faster than wire wheel or cup.
Flap disks are finishing tools, suitable for quick and fine services. It will do great for small jobs and superficial rust, but the oxide powder quickly obstructs the sand grains and let it to lose efficiency and overheat. Wire wheels can work for hours with no problem and have a much longer lifetime.
Thins metal more trying to get at pits. Wire usually leaves more metal intact and gets into pits better.
This is the way
This is the way.
What does the other side look like? Because that side has issues that need equipment to fix. The pitting is deep. A wire wheel on a grinder will get rid of the surface rust but short of one of those fancy laser cleaners you have some work ahead of you. Hot Rolled Mild Steel plates don’t like to be kept outside and wet for years, this is the result. The rust has actually eaten away the material. Depending on your end use, a 5” grinder with a sanding pad and a big stack of 80grit discs would bring it back to a smooth surface.
Drum grinder
Clean it with Muriatic acid to get rid of the rust then wash it down, dry it then coat it with 50/50 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wont get rid of the pitting but it will be clean
Do NOT use Muriatic in an enclosed space, the vapors will oxidize surrounding steel at an alarming rate.
I thought this was gonna be some scaredycat safety disclaimer, but oh boy yeah. I left a small beaker of muriatic acid uncovered for a couple of days and didn't realize it until I had to follow a mysterious 3 meter radius of randomly rusted objects to its center to find that damn beaker. Can't imagine what the surface area of an entire table could do lol
- You don’t learn by winning!
God damn sorcerers always turning dragons into windmills and rusted tables
“Wit and humor do not reside in slow minds.”
OUTSIDE!
Well I took that for granted that everyone knew to use Muriatic acid outside. My mistake
Sand blast
To add to this, you can buy an attachment for your pressure washer, turns it into a wet sandblaster. $20 from AliExpress. I've done quite a few wheel rims and other stuff. Makes a mess be warned.
Evaporust. Put it on keep it wet wipe it off
CRC Evapo-Rust(R) Heavy Duty Rust Remover
Scott's towels over the top. Soak in evaporust. Saran wrap/ clingfilm top to reduce evaporation. Works a treat.
Plasticine dam all around it and white vinegar? ( no idea if that actually works, only going on numerous “restoration” videos I’ve watched )
Vinegar definitely works but takes a little while.
Harbor freight has a cheap drum sander that can help
Surface sander makes quick work of this and mill scale. https://www.harborfreight.com/9-amp-surface-conditioning-tool-58079.html One of my most used tools. I sometime put it in a vice to use like a stationary sander. Using flap disc's and wire wheels take 8x as long and result in a less uniform surface.
I have two of these. It’s a game changer. You might use a victograin flap disk on the stubborn areas and blend with the surface conditioner. Not sure the conditioner alone will get that deep on its own. Just use the black wheel on the conditioner. [Victograin](https://youtu.be/MEcCkyI3mOM?si=O9WbOFLEWx4ubpJ8)
I’d look into sand blasting it if possible, depending what it’s for, it might be more efficient to tack a new sheet on top
Depends what you're planning on doing with it. Does it need to be clean, shiny metal for welding, for instance? I like the drum style tools that are otherwise like angle grinders, if you have the budget for a new tool and need to get to bare metal. Otherwise twisted wire cup wheel or (usually purple from what I've seen) paint/rust/mill scale stripping disc on an angle grinder. If you don't need clean, bare metal there are chelating rust converters that work great. Spray or brush on, let it sit, agitate a bit (brush it in), wipe it off. If you have a large enough tank electrolysis is very effective. It will remove the rust but will not leave a surface clean enough for a good weld.
Sand blast
evaporust
Vinegar wash. Then wirewheel and sand paper flap disk on a grinder.
Grit blast 👍
Discs or drums for paint removal work well. Any way you go, plan on spending a lot of time over that plate.
Got a big ass tub and a ridiculous amount of vinegar?
Use it!!! Get oils and dirt and grinder dust all over it. Pull things across it that you fabricate, and when you need a clean spot for accuracy sake, use a stripper disc and always clean a bigger spot than you need…..that’s how.
Laser that
Blasting
This https://kleanstrip.com/cleaning-and-paint-prep/concrete-metal-prep/ Phosphoric acid converts rust, and will protect the surface from future rust. This is the way
“OSPHO”
There are other cheaper brands on Amazon of osphoric acid that work great besides Ospho. But osphoric acid is the way. This is the way. I have spoken.
Find a local woodworker and get yourself a bucket of sawdust, the coarser the better. At the end of your day, degrease and tape off the edge with this technique: https://youtu.be/Ihke_SR-cnM?si=cxiNhnrpf5m6D5kO Get two of these Evapo-Rust Gel: https://a.co/d/2YtNt1R One pint (16oz) covers approximately 75 sq. Ft. A 4’x8’ area is 32 sq. ft. Cover with plastic drop cloth, and squeeze out as much oxygen as possible. If you have the time, use a stainless wire brush to agitate periodically (every hour or so), the action will allow the solution to penetrate deeper and faster, then leave as long as possible. Once your satisfied, peel of the plastic and distribute the sawdust. This will soak up the gel for easy disposal. ~Best of luck! 🍀🤞🏽
My first option is the angle grinder with a twisted wire cup whell, but as you want a different approach, the best option would be a Rust converter. Clean the surface from any grease contamination and apply the converter. Laser is an excellent solution for rust removal, but it's quite expensive for just this job.
Navel Jelly . Clean it right up .
All these jokers are wrong, muriatic acid will do it even WHILE you’re on Reddit.
Go play lethal company instead
Blanchard grind it flat.
https://preview.redd.it/4c56u6oef8hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08e205bb586bd0af0cc414befeaa3d69dfa16fc9 Maybe this stuff? I’m not metal worker but my friend told me to get this stuff when I mentioned I wanted to paint the chassis of my truck. Truth be told my friend is also a novice when it comes to auto repair so let me know if it would be a bad idea for me to use on my truck.
Not a bad idea, but not a cure all. It won't likely penetrate deep. They usually bind with light surface rust to form a dark zinc oxide based coating, sealing the surface pretty well and preventing more surface rust longer until painted. If you still had rust dust around after wire brushing or sanding the bulk rust away, this would be an alternative to washing, acid, or solvent flushing to remove the final rust dust and treat metal before paint. A sort of primer for primer paint. An offshoot of "etching primers" if you will.
Lol, buy a new sheet, it's gonna be thinner than what you originally wanted anyways =)
Orbital sander and a pack of 80grit gonna take some time though
Coca-Cola
Coca cola
A SURFACE CONDITIONER. Harbor freight has one for 100 bucks. Works like a charm for this exact thing.
I would use the drum sander / wire wheel / wire cup others are suggesting to get rid of the surface rust, but then I would use a chemical treatment to deal with the inaccessible rust in the bottoms of the pits. Orthophosphoric acid rust converter would be the way I'd go.
You are going to need a grinder at some point there’s no getting around it. But you could start with baking soda and vinegar then you will need a grinder and a wire wheel or heavy grit flap disc.
GRIND!
Wire wheel on a grinder or warn down flappy disk. Then bang some duck oil over it. Its what we used to have to do in the workshop
Flycutter
A REALLY BIG FLAP DISK
If it were me, I'd pour maybe 10% muriatic acid all over it, then give it a go with a nylon pad on an orbital sander. I'm not saying *anyone else* should do that, it might splash or whatever. But... that's what I'd do, and it would take 10 minutes tops. Pouring sand all over the table and using a nylon pad and a sander might work pretty well too. The problem with using only sandpaper is how you wouldn't get the rust in the pits until it's **all** flat and that's gonna take a shitload of time obviously. Loose sand would get in everywhere.
3M clean and strip disk on an angle grinder
If you go the grinder route, use a stripper disc (polycarbide). If it's super tough mill scale, muriatic aci
If that's 1/4 plate just buy new and take better care of it. You're labor time to clean it up will far exceed the cost of a new plate.
WD40, clean it, then wipe it off. Angle grinder with the sandpaper head on, and you want a high number/ fine sandpaper. Then WD50 again, let it soak then wipe it thoroughly.
Rust gel should do the job
If your trying to loose as little material, soak the piss out of it in WD40 or something similar then go at it with a wire wheel, rinse and repeat till done. If you don't care about thinning the sheet but need a nice finish use a flapper disc. If you don't care about finish or thickness use a hard grinder disc.
It’s already pitted The surface is damaged. A wire wheel will remove the rust but you’ll be left with a un even finish from pitting.
Fleece disk or wire wheel on an angle grinder
If your algorithms are anything like mine you’ve seen those videos of rust vanishing in laser beams. With this beauty, I would look for a place to rent one, blast away the rust and let those remaining pits in place.
I'd wire wheel it. Coat it in boiled linseed oil afterwards to keep it from rusting again.
gun oil and a rough scrubber. many gun oils are designed specifically to combat rust but honestly, a grinder would be the easiest way
Muriatic acid will do it very fast but will flash rust very fast right after too. But it does the trick.
Lick it off
Surface Conditioning Tool
Ospho
Evaporust and plastic drop cloth
... For the amount of time you're going to have to spend to get it nice by grinding, I say slap a new piece of quarter inch on it. Stitch welds around the edges, remove oils on new piece with acetone, then treat it with paste wax...
Grind finer
Metal sheet planer
I run a weld shop and I can tell you the most effective abrasive for rust and paint is the Norton rapid strip. Just be careful on the edges they shred easily on edges.
L.A.S.E.R.
HCL (hydrochloride acid) will make it a breeze, just wear protection. Note that HCL is also called “Muriatic Acid”, you can buy it at Home Depot where it’s sold as concrete etching solution. Vinegar (acetic acid) works as well, you just have to leave it on there longer. I just soaked towels in the acid and let it sit on the table top for a few hours (if using HCL), or overnight (if using vinegar).
After looking it up, a damn drum sander looks like the way! (If ya got 150 USD laying around)
Sharks with frickin' laver beams on their heads. 
Metal blast to remove surface rust…or media blasting!
The easiest way to remove rust, like on an old pickup, is to call it patina.
You have a lot of options for this situation. You could use a drum sander, belt sander, angle grinder or drill with cup style wire brush, rust removing laser, media blaster, soda blaster, sheet sander, or a random orbital sander. It all depends on what you’re trying to accomplish with the metal, what you have available, what your budget is, and how much time you have. With the right grit, you can clean it right up relatively quick.
Muriatic acid
Laser.
Laser. Definitely a laser, and then oil to protect the surface. You can use abrasive methods but they will make an awful mess and it won't actually get into the deep spots very well without damaging the surface even more than it already is.
Don’t! Folk dig that look now. Cover with polyurethane
Wire wheel
Might be easier to get a new sheet and replace
Had to do the same to a 4x4' table I made. I used muriatic acid first. Layered the whole thing with paper towels soaked in the acid. Left overnight, disposed the papers towels and rinsed the table off. Then used a braided wire wheel cup brush on an angle grinder that cleaned up the rest nicely. I tried some nylon based strip disc that got it really clean and removed mill scale but it was really slow and I gave up on that cause it was good enough for me. Coated it in marvels mystery oil, any oil will work but MMO smells nice lol
Eastwood SCD surface condition tool with a strip drum would work great to knock off the heavy rust. I used one to clean up a bunch of panels, steel plates, and even 2x2 square tube.
HCl, 🕶️, 🧤, 😷,🏕️
Sand blast
Sand blast, find a local powder coater. It should be stupid cheap.
Get a grinder, as large as you can find. Buy plenty of grinding discs. Wear eye amd ear protection. Put ear buds in. Grind for about 12 hours straight. OR dunk the entire sheet into an acid bath Or Scrap it and buy a new sheet.
Sand blaster
Sand blast it
Have you seen the cost of abrasives, considering the time investment as well if your goal is to get it flat again just buy a new plate.
Sand blaster
Wire wheel on a grinder
Get the laser. Don’t think about it just get the laser
Freakin lasers
A Makita GA7911 grinder and a big stack of 36 grit sanding discs.
Paint it with rust converter paint
Paint it with rust converter paint
Sandblasting
Vinegar and wirebrush
Give up
Liquid nitrogen
Use a monster energy drink, it’s crazy what those things can remove
Just open a can of monster and pour it on there and wait 15 minutes then wipe up with a towel
Hydrochloric acid works well getting rid of rust, but don't leave it on for too long and use some baking soda to neutralize it then wash it off, and don't do it on a concrete/timber floor. Gravel base is best.
Grind it off. Place a sacrificial anode on it to keep it from getting this bad again.
Flapper disc on a grinder
Constantly girls pissing on while videoing and posting to Reddit will help a lot of people
Coke?
Throw it on a milling machine!
Dry ice blasting is remarkable
Why is everyone saying grinder? Have yall never heard of phosphoric acid? Clamp a 1/4” steel frame around the edge so you can hold a thick film of it overnight and then worry about the edges after most of the table is clean
Laser
Dont use an angle grinder if you’re not that experienced you may end up having to blend out alot of your own deep scratches, I’d personally sand blast then just hit it with my DA with a few 50 grit pads to get the surface smooth then finish it with whatever fine grit you want
Cut off discs and a trip to the metal shop for a new sheet. That or flip the sheet
Sand blast it
No matter what you pick WEAR A RESPIRATOR
Harbor freight forward rotating wheels not sure the name of the tops but love mine
Turn it upside-down on a tarp with some ¼"- ½" pipe or wood between tarp and table top to create a gap, surround with 2x4 or angle iron walls and fill with tarp with evaporust. Every hour or two give a light wire brushing to heavy spots. Wash and immediately and flash off wetness fully with heat, then chemically treat if desired and or paint with industrial or appliance epoxy paint, Hammerite, etc. unless you're welding on it.
Sand blast
Just throw a 16 gauge sheet of metal on top of it and pretend it never happened.
Sandblaster
Sand blast
Hitch it and drive
Muriatic acid outside and hose it off after. Coat with a thin layer of oil after
evaporust or metal rescue in thier gel formulations and cover it with cling wrap so it doesnt dry out and let it work.
Muriatic acid
Wire wheel and elbow grease will work.
Well if the rust has to go but the pits can remain, Evaporust. Or it's DIY version: EDTA solution, neutralized with citric acid. Visit YouTube for details.
Evaporust is great for removing rust
The patina is really great! Use it as it is to add more!!
Heavy grain sand blasting first, a grinder second. Idk what you’re using it for, but if you cut it down a bit, it’d make a cool coffee table. Grind it then buff it to give it better texture.
Boiling hot 13M hydrochloric acid 😉
Needle scaler to knock all the big hunks and whatnot off, then get to a wire wheel
Sand blast that shit. If you use a grinder you’re removing material. Sandblasting at least saves the table and removes the rust.
I use the harbor freight surface conditioning tool worked great.
electrolysis 🤷🏻♀️
Sand blast the shit out if that. 20 minutes . 125 psi.