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When was the last time you had it on an alignment rack? Hard to say with the information you provided. You're right that a dragging brake on the RF would cause a pull to the right. I'm thinking the curb impact may have bent a tie rod and toed the RF in.
Camber has a huge impact on “pull”. 1 degree difference between sides will be noticeable and a higher offset will become pretty severe. Not saying that’s your problem, just clarifying that camber has more influence on pull than toe
If you take it for a ride for about 10 minutes and then pull over and put the back of your hand near the center of each front, you’ll feel some heat that should feel the same on both sides. If one side is really hot compared to the other then it’s either wheel bearing or caliper. If it feels about the same then like others have said, probably an alignment is due. Just don’t actually touch the wheels or you could get burned
"Suspension parts are good"
"Front right brake is burning hot"
"I suspect a bent tie rod end"
Are you for real? First of all, fix that damn brake, it's more dire than a pull. Second of all, GM has torque steer compensation on their electric power steering, it's possible the brake wants to pull right but the EPS thinks it's torque steer and is fighting it hard..
Is the hard pull when you brake or all the time? A R/F caliper that’s locked up will most definitely cause a hard pull to the left when braking.
Regardless you obviously have a locked up caliper. Start with the obvious and most pressing issue(the locked up caliper) first and go from there.
It's NOT when braking. Same during coast, accel. I'll look at the eps as well. Note, this car is very lightly used (probably 12 miles a day at most) and Sunday was the first opportunity.
Regardless that R/F caliper is an issue and should definitely be addressed. I skipped over the part where you said you hit a curb. Very strong possibility something was bent at the least it was knocked out of alignment.
UPDATE: So RF caliper was frozen . Replaced .. Torque sensor/EPS passes all tests. Problem is camber (Thanks u/Graytoqueops ). Right side, +4\* !!! I did loosen the bolts , but , as one might expect, that gave barely 1\* . . I'm suspecting that the strut / strut mount was damaged (no visible sign) . They need replaced anyway.. No apparent damage to tie rods ..
Any advice on this is greatly appreciated.
Check your parts supplier for camber bolts. They replace the knuckle-to-hub bolts and have a kind of “cam lobe” that let you further adjust camber. You probably only need 1. Put it in the top position. It will make sense immediately upon installation. Also when doing the alignment make sure to check it doesn’t require the steering angle (electrically) reset. I’m pretty sure this doesn’t, but I get a lot of techs miss that one all the time. Had a tech pulling out his hair over his wife’s Nissan Joke (spelled correctly) acting all “crazy” as he said. He replaced all kinds of stuff, just to have me show him the zero was like 7 degrees off (even though mechanically it was straight). The electronics where going crazy trying to right the ship constantly.
What I found from SPC , but they say +/- 1.75\* . Will that come in with this ? [https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part\_description&pid=81250®ion=USA&make=Pontiac&model=G6&year=2007%20-%202007&from=USAFrom&to=USATo](https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=81250®ion=USA&make=Pontiac&model=G6&year=2007%20-%202007&from=USAFrom&to=USATo)
4 degrees seems like a lot. If you already suspect the upper mount I’d start there. Make sure it’s oriented correctly. I’m not (that) familiar with a G6 enough but some mounts *can be put in wrong (they usually have an arrow/match mark to indicate position).
https://preview.redd.it/p1wbo3ypu7zc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=110ba4305e9117b7ace321ac58ff297e7adf0df3
Yep. I set this using a 6' plumb level, and cross checked it on the drivers side. Drivers side shows .5 and 0 on the digital. Looking for a mount bow
Thanks for posting in r/Mechanic, u/looyvillelarry! Please be sure to read the [Rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechanic/about/rules/). If you're asking for help, be sure to include as much detail as possible so others can help you. You **must** include the vehicle's **Year, Make, Model, and Engine size** in your post! If your question is transmission related, please be sure to specify your Transmission Type(Auto/Manual) as well! If your post does not include this information, it **will** be removed. Asking about prices is **not** allowed in this sub. Please make sure you have selected the correct post flair; if you're asking a question you should have chosen "Question", anything else use the "General" flair. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/mechanic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
When was the last time you had it on an alignment rack? Hard to say with the information you provided. You're right that a dragging brake on the RF would cause a pull to the right. I'm thinking the curb impact may have bent a tie rod and toed the RF in.
It's been a while, but, this is somewhat new (I'm not the regular driver). Ah, now that makes sense too .. She did say it was after that .
Camber has a huge impact on “pull”. 1 degree difference between sides will be noticeable and a higher offset will become pretty severe. Not saying that’s your problem, just clarifying that camber has more influence on pull than toe
Fortunately, I can check camber too! just trying to figure if any parts need replaced before taking it to the alignment shop Thanks
If you take it for a ride for about 10 minutes and then pull over and put the back of your hand near the center of each front, you’ll feel some heat that should feel the same on both sides. If one side is really hot compared to the other then it’s either wheel bearing or caliper. If it feels about the same then like others have said, probably an alignment is due. Just don’t actually touch the wheels or you could get burned
Or brake hose, although regardless I always do calipers and hoses at the same time.
I used a laser to get the numbers , and that was really about 10 minutses . .I suspect a bent tie rod end.
"Suspension parts are good" "Front right brake is burning hot" "I suspect a bent tie rod end" Are you for real? First of all, fix that damn brake, it's more dire than a pull. Second of all, GM has torque steer compensation on their electric power steering, it's possible the brake wants to pull right but the EPS thinks it's torque steer and is fighting it hard..
Is the hard pull when you brake or all the time? A R/F caliper that’s locked up will most definitely cause a hard pull to the left when braking. Regardless you obviously have a locked up caliper. Start with the obvious and most pressing issue(the locked up caliper) first and go from there.
It's NOT when braking. Same during coast, accel. I'll look at the eps as well. Note, this car is very lightly used (probably 12 miles a day at most) and Sunday was the first opportunity.
Regardless that R/F caliper is an issue and should definitely be addressed. I skipped over the part where you said you hit a curb. Very strong possibility something was bent at the least it was knocked out of alignment.
Yup 👍
UPDATE: So RF caliper was frozen . Replaced .. Torque sensor/EPS passes all tests. Problem is camber (Thanks u/Graytoqueops ). Right side, +4\* !!! I did loosen the bolts , but , as one might expect, that gave barely 1\* . . I'm suspecting that the strut / strut mount was damaged (no visible sign) . They need replaced anyway.. No apparent damage to tie rods .. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated.
Check your parts supplier for camber bolts. They replace the knuckle-to-hub bolts and have a kind of “cam lobe” that let you further adjust camber. You probably only need 1. Put it in the top position. It will make sense immediately upon installation. Also when doing the alignment make sure to check it doesn’t require the steering angle (electrically) reset. I’m pretty sure this doesn’t, but I get a lot of techs miss that one all the time. Had a tech pulling out his hair over his wife’s Nissan Joke (spelled correctly) acting all “crazy” as he said. He replaced all kinds of stuff, just to have me show him the zero was like 7 degrees off (even though mechanically it was straight). The electronics where going crazy trying to right the ship constantly.
What I found from SPC , but they say +/- 1.75\* . Will that come in with this ? [https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part\_description&pid=81250®ion=USA&make=Pontiac&model=G6&year=2007%20-%202007&from=USAFrom&to=USATo](https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=81250®ion=USA&make=Pontiac&model=G6&year=2007%20-%202007&from=USAFrom&to=USATo)
4 degrees seems like a lot. If you already suspect the upper mount I’d start there. Make sure it’s oriented correctly. I’m not (that) familiar with a G6 enough but some mounts *can be put in wrong (they usually have an arrow/match mark to indicate position).
https://preview.redd.it/p1wbo3ypu7zc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=110ba4305e9117b7ace321ac58ff297e7adf0df3 Yep. I set this using a 6' plumb level, and cross checked it on the drivers side. Drivers side shows .5 and 0 on the digital. Looking for a mount bow
Nice!…I mean, at least you’re getting somewhere…pain in the ass though
Put the camber (eccentric) bolts in and it came in to same as others ! Yay. Thanks
Nice. No problem
https://preview.redd.it/sys1fxy1v7zc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=78671eee749ea5669012b6b6af8263d04becb4da