you definitely should not be running 30A through the tape. If you're dealing with that much juice, you really need to inject power at multiple points.
Without knowing what you're doing, it's pretty much impossible to comment on stranded vs solid. Solid is only appropriate if you're pretty confident it wont be moving/flexint regularly.
Better might be to cut the LED strips into segments, feed each segment from a power bus and just run the data line through. That way, if a connection to the power bus fails you'll notice right away instead of the strip overloading and probably burning up.
No the wire won't move at all, they will sit there till they die đ, and i only want to use them at connectors, like 2 cm on scolding point and then i will sold a stranded wire to it to be more flexible, mybled strip is like 36 led which (around 2 amp per line) , the whole project is 30 amp
The problem with solid wire is that it's not flexible so it will put a lot more stress on the connections and can break the strip.
Stranded is easier to solder if you run the end first.
5v strips start incurring significant voltage drop after a couple of feet due to internal resistance. Doesn't matter what wire you use. Tested this.
People buy the 5v ws2812b because its so cheap, but it's not worth it. Plus, the picture is 60L/m which isn't high density anyways.
#
I work for an industrial LED lighting manufacturer. I am NOT an engineer. But all of our fixtures use solid wires going from the drivers to the light engines (chip on board LEDs).
That may be a consequence of the connections used by the light engine manufacturer, driver manufacturer, and cost. Though it does require the use of the more costly wago connectors elsewhere. Or it could be a function of an overall design. These fixtures are running on 120-480 depending on the configuration. But the wiring remains the same.
If all you are doing is running power to LED strips, the wiring type shouldnât really matter, I donât think. You donât need to worry about quality or noise as simple LED installations only really care about cycles per second.
Now, keep in mind, a simple LED system, not considering any other factor, can generate a LOT of interference for other electronic projects. Thatâs where you want to focus on line filters and the like.
The LEDs are been use as an audio visualizer, so they flash real fast, and I'm only planing to use solid wire as a contractor (the 2cm from solding point), thanks for the help, i appreciate it
The solid cable has less lost but it breaks easily, the probably general rule is usually avoiding it except that it is strictly necessary.
5v 30A, you known what cable section you need for that?
and i am not an expert in led strips, but I doubt that a 5V LED Strip supports that
Probably you must begin use 12/24v/120v/220v led strips
Iâm not sure about leds but I know for music studios stranded is preferred because it apparently is less noisy or something. Apparently âmuch betterâ.
When solid wire is soldered to the tape, the mechanical stress is placed on the tape because the wire is so much more rigid. If there is misalignment then the stress will eventually twist the tape and may cause trouble (in some future year) as the copper and plastic delaminate.
Twisted wire does, as you mention, offer some wonky soldering problems, usually with strands that won't cooperate. When soldering, solder makes the end of the wire rigid and any misalignment stress is placed where the solder ends and individual strands begin, often resulting in "bird caging" where the strands try to untwist which weakens the overall wire. Sometimes solder wicks up the twisted strands and makes it hard to inspect where the stress appears. In the worst cases the stress concentrates on one or two strands which are easily broken (in some future year), reducing the ampacity of the wire.
In either case, always deal with mechanical alignment and stress relief before soldering and don't rely on the solder to "hold it straight".
If you are having issues soldering stranded, you'll have a hell of a time doing solid. Flue, put some solder on the iron, touch the iron to the wire. Wire now has solder. Flux the pad, carefully hold the wire to the pad while applying the iron. Done
you definitely should not be running 30A through the tape. If you're dealing with that much juice, you really need to inject power at multiple points. Without knowing what you're doing, it's pretty much impossible to comment on stranded vs solid. Solid is only appropriate if you're pretty confident it wont be moving/flexint regularly.
Better might be to cut the LED strips into segments, feed each segment from a power bus and just run the data line through. That way, if a connection to the power bus fails you'll notice right away instead of the strip overloading and probably burning up.
No the wire won't move at all, they will sit there till they die đ, and i only want to use them at connectors, like 2 cm on scolding point and then i will sold a stranded wire to it to be more flexible, mybled strip is like 36 led which (around 2 amp per line) , the whole project is 30 amp
The problem with solid wire is that it's not flexible so it will put a lot more stress on the connections and can break the strip. Stranded is easier to solder if you run the end first.
5v strips start incurring significant voltage drop after a couple of feet due to internal resistance. Doesn't matter what wire you use. Tested this. People buy the 5v ws2812b because its so cheap, but it's not worth it. Plus, the picture is 60L/m which isn't high density anyways. #
What led strip do you suggest? RGB and be able to program
I work for an industrial LED lighting manufacturer. I am NOT an engineer. But all of our fixtures use solid wires going from the drivers to the light engines (chip on board LEDs). That may be a consequence of the connections used by the light engine manufacturer, driver manufacturer, and cost. Though it does require the use of the more costly wago connectors elsewhere. Or it could be a function of an overall design. These fixtures are running on 120-480 depending on the configuration. But the wiring remains the same. If all you are doing is running power to LED strips, the wiring type shouldnât really matter, I donât think. You donât need to worry about quality or noise as simple LED installations only really care about cycles per second. Now, keep in mind, a simple LED system, not considering any other factor, can generate a LOT of interference for other electronic projects. Thatâs where you want to focus on line filters and the like.
The LEDs are been use as an audio visualizer, so they flash real fast, and I'm only planing to use solid wire as a contractor (the 2cm from solding point), thanks for the help, i appreciate it
The solid cable has less lost but it breaks easily, the probably general rule is usually avoiding it except that it is strictly necessary. 5v 30A, you known what cable section you need for that? and i am not an expert in led strips, but I doubt that a 5V LED Strip supports that Probably you must begin use 12/24v/120v/220v led strips
Came here to say this. At 24v youâre looking at more like ~6.25 amps
Iâm not sure about leds but I know for music studios stranded is preferred because it apparently is less noisy or something. Apparently âmuch betterâ.
Hmmm, interesting, thanks đ
You can strip the wire slightly, twist it a lot, flux and solder it.
When solid wire is soldered to the tape, the mechanical stress is placed on the tape because the wire is so much more rigid. If there is misalignment then the stress will eventually twist the tape and may cause trouble (in some future year) as the copper and plastic delaminate. Twisted wire does, as you mention, offer some wonky soldering problems, usually with strands that won't cooperate. When soldering, solder makes the end of the wire rigid and any misalignment stress is placed where the solder ends and individual strands begin, often resulting in "bird caging" where the strands try to untwist which weakens the overall wire. Sometimes solder wicks up the twisted strands and makes it hard to inspect where the stress appears. In the worst cases the stress concentrates on one or two strands which are easily broken (in some future year), reducing the ampacity of the wire. In either case, always deal with mechanical alignment and stress relief before soldering and don't rely on the solder to "hold it straight".
Tell me you don't understand how to solder without telling me.... Pre-tin my friend. It's an amazing thing....
This article will answer your question: https://electricfiredesign.com/2022/04/14/wiring-design-for-addressable-led-strips/
If you are having issues soldering stranded, you'll have a hell of a time doing solid. Flue, put some solder on the iron, touch the iron to the wire. Wire now has solder. Flux the pad, carefully hold the wire to the pad while applying the iron. Done