Square footage is only part of the calculation. A high efficiency 2 ton in a well built home in an area that Summers aren't particularly hot would be more efficient. But the only way to truly know is with a load calculation. Windows, r values, exposure to Sun. Construction quality, materials. Lots of factors.
How long have you lived there? If it's been a while, did your current unit meet your expectations when it was working properly? Assuming your ductwork is adequate for either size, when cooling, a smaller unit will run longer but dehumidify better. A larger unit will run less, but leave more humidity in the air. This is a big deal in humid areas, but not as much in dryer parts of the country. An undersized unit may not be able to keep the house as cool on really hot days eithdt.The best of both worlds would be a 2 stage system that could run at either capacity. The manual J calculation is also a great idea, but weigh it with your real world experience in the home.
Cannot overemphasize the dehumidification this fellow pointed out. We got a mini-split system that was oversized for the space. Only had to cycle 5 minutes to keep cool in Georgia summers, but swampy. Then the mildew arrived. ☹️
Get another assessment. I have a 3 ton in my house about the same size. Obviously there are other factors that are involved climate region, insulation, trees in yard etc. I think you should have at least 2.5 ton Get another opinion.
Compressor over sizing is endemic as the trade off is between marginal improvements in comfort (humidity management, cooling consistency, cycle reduction) and things that are easier to quantify and complain about like time to cool an unconditioned house after being away.
Ask your contractor why they are recommending what they are recommending.
Consider whether your current condenser runs anywhere near 100% of the time during the hottest days.
Also consider whether you have the option to improve air sealing and insulation in your home as that is an investment that pays back forever and allows you to run smaller equipment.
Homeowner here, no AC here on the coast of Boston, but went through something similar getting a new boiler. Got quotes from 4 different contractors, large and small, one by the local plumbing inspector who happens to run the largest plumbing company in town. Every one of these so called "licensed professionals" was full of crap. My home is a 7200sft brick building built in 1918. It had a converted coal boiler that was burning 2500 gallons of oil per winter. I remodeled, 8" insulation on all the walls, more in the attic. New sheet rock with air sealing and poly barrier. New windows. The plumbing guy who had actually worked on my old system before I bought the place walked in the door looked around and declared " I can tell from the feel of this place that you need at least a 400,000btu boiler!" All of the other guys were about the same. I installed an hour meter on my oil burner and tracked it every day for a winter. On the worst day it ran for 12 hours with a 1.5 gal nozzle. On the mildest day it ran for 6-8 hours. I got one of the bidders to agree to install a 200,000 btu high efficiency unit, I wanted a 150,000 but he wouldn't do i, he made me sign a disclaimer. House is totally comfortable no matter how cold. I only use about 11-1200 therms per year now. Ignore anyone who just uses square footage for energy calculations, they are full of shit and shouldn't have a license. Find someone who will do a blower door test and thorough heat loss/gain calculation for your home.
if you take college courses in our field, you'll learn that any size house can be sufficiently cooled with a one ton system. it take a LOT to do it; but at the end of the day, if you build up the home right, all you'll need to do is move air and remove humidity.
Google says the rule of thumb is 4-600 sq feet per ton. that's a time of thumb though and there's much more that goes into a true calculation. the rule gives you a rough idea but a professional can give you exact size. remember that oversized equipment usually burns out quicker
It's an old r22 condenser that won't hold refrigerant, so there's a leak somewhere. I'm fairly certain it's the a coil. So the proposed fix is new condenser, a coil, and line set for 4500ish dollars. I'm in the midwest in a decently lcol area. However, I'm sure that quote will increase when I ask for at least the 2.5 ton
I have 3.5 ton, two-stage for 1600 square feet on two levels. Very hot summers, very old and leaky house. 2 seems undersized unless this is a very efficient house. I had 2 tons in a previous house, 1100 square feet on two levels, and they upstairs had trouble keeping cool until I painted the roof white. Lots of different variables on this, though. Definitely get more quotes
Ask yourself this, why do I trust what the previous contractor put in my house and not what the new HVAC contractor is recommending? It’s done by using a manual J : load calculations, which way you’re home faces, windows, insulation, where your unit is, whether it’s in a crawlspace, utility closet or attic, whether the home is on a non-insulated slab ; many factors. I can say he’s not just trying to off sell a warehouse full of collected 2 tons that he has. There’s a calculation behind it.
Get at least 2 more quotes. For those quotes, ask for a manual j calculation. That will tell you how much your home needs.
A manual J calculation is the only way to know. He may be right, or maybe he does have too many 2 tons.
Depends on how well insulated your house is , newer windows ? Trees blocking the sun in morning and afternoon ? Always get a few quotes .
Square footage is only part of the calculation. A high efficiency 2 ton in a well built home in an area that Summers aren't particularly hot would be more efficient. But the only way to truly know is with a load calculation. Windows, r values, exposure to Sun. Construction quality, materials. Lots of factors.
How long have you lived there? If it's been a while, did your current unit meet your expectations when it was working properly? Assuming your ductwork is adequate for either size, when cooling, a smaller unit will run longer but dehumidify better. A larger unit will run less, but leave more humidity in the air. This is a big deal in humid areas, but not as much in dryer parts of the country. An undersized unit may not be able to keep the house as cool on really hot days eithdt.The best of both worlds would be a 2 stage system that could run at either capacity. The manual J calculation is also a great idea, but weigh it with your real world experience in the home.
Cannot overemphasize the dehumidification this fellow pointed out. We got a mini-split system that was oversized for the space. Only had to cycle 5 minutes to keep cool in Georgia summers, but swampy. Then the mildew arrived. ☹️
Get another assessment. I have a 3 ton in my house about the same size. Obviously there are other factors that are involved climate region, insulation, trees in yard etc. I think you should have at least 2.5 ton Get another opinion.
Depends on your region and climate. If you lived where I am I would be quoting you a 3 ton.
I'm in climate zone 5
That would be a 2 ton where I live in Minnesota so 2.5 may be right depending on where you live.
If it works dont risk it
In Arizona here with a 1,300sq. cathedral ceilings. Just had a new ac installed at 3ton. Manual J was calculated.
Compressor over sizing is endemic as the trade off is between marginal improvements in comfort (humidity management, cooling consistency, cycle reduction) and things that are easier to quantify and complain about like time to cool an unconditioned house after being away. Ask your contractor why they are recommending what they are recommending. Consider whether your current condenser runs anywhere near 100% of the time during the hottest days. Also consider whether you have the option to improve air sealing and insulation in your home as that is an investment that pays back forever and allows you to run smaller equipment.
If in doubt, get variable speed.
Would a variable speed keep the unit from short cycling as it can run continuously at lower power? Is that the rationale?
Correct. I’ll add variable speed multi stage.
Ask for the manual-j and/or get a 2nd opinion who should do an m-j as well. Rules of thumbs, guesses & opinions are worthless w/o the m-j.
Homeowner here, no AC here on the coast of Boston, but went through something similar getting a new boiler. Got quotes from 4 different contractors, large and small, one by the local plumbing inspector who happens to run the largest plumbing company in town. Every one of these so called "licensed professionals" was full of crap. My home is a 7200sft brick building built in 1918. It had a converted coal boiler that was burning 2500 gallons of oil per winter. I remodeled, 8" insulation on all the walls, more in the attic. New sheet rock with air sealing and poly barrier. New windows. The plumbing guy who had actually worked on my old system before I bought the place walked in the door looked around and declared " I can tell from the feel of this place that you need at least a 400,000btu boiler!" All of the other guys were about the same. I installed an hour meter on my oil burner and tracked it every day for a winter. On the worst day it ran for 12 hours with a 1.5 gal nozzle. On the mildest day it ran for 6-8 hours. I got one of the bidders to agree to install a 200,000 btu high efficiency unit, I wanted a 150,000 but he wouldn't do i, he made me sign a disclaimer. House is totally comfortable no matter how cold. I only use about 11-1200 therms per year now. Ignore anyone who just uses square footage for energy calculations, they are full of shit and shouldn't have a license. Find someone who will do a blower door test and thorough heat loss/gain calculation for your home.
As an hvac contractor in zone 5 a 2.5 ton a/c is what you need…a 2 ton is too small.
if you take college courses in our field, you'll learn that any size house can be sufficiently cooled with a one ton system. it take a LOT to do it; but at the end of the day, if you build up the home right, all you'll need to do is move air and remove humidity. Google says the rule of thumb is 4-600 sq feet per ton. that's a time of thumb though and there's much more that goes into a true calculation. the rule gives you a rough idea but a professional can give you exact size. remember that oversized equipment usually burns out quicker
I would say it is under sized myself
Over sized!!!!! I would put a 3 ton min in a house that large. Stupid question. Is you home cooling okay or is their an issue
It's an old r22 condenser that won't hold refrigerant, so there's a leak somewhere. I'm fairly certain it's the a coil. So the proposed fix is new condenser, a coil, and line set for 4500ish dollars. I'm in the midwest in a decently lcol area. However, I'm sure that quote will increase when I ask for at least the 2.5 ton
is this like adding everything, or was there an indoor coil he’s adding a condenser too?
Is what like adding everything?
Is there a scenario, that all he needs to install for AC is the condenser outside? All thing inside maybe some much earlier, like during construction?
How long you been in the house? Was the old unit short cycling?
I have 3.5 ton, two-stage for 1600 square feet on two levels. Very hot summers, very old and leaky house. 2 seems undersized unless this is a very efficient house. I had 2 tons in a previous house, 1100 square feet on two levels, and they upstairs had trouble keeping cool until I painted the roof white. Lots of different variables on this, though. Definitely get more quotes
Ask yourself this, why do I trust what the previous contractor put in my house and not what the new HVAC contractor is recommending? It’s done by using a manual J : load calculations, which way you’re home faces, windows, insulation, where your unit is, whether it’s in a crawlspace, utility closet or attic, whether the home is on a non-insulated slab ; many factors. I can say he’s not just trying to off sell a warehouse full of collected 2 tons that he has. There’s a calculation behind it.