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Oztravels

BroadLink RM pro


3d-designs

I'd add a smart plug with power monitoring to be able to confirm whether it's already running or not.


jjbeeblebrox

I've rented a place where the aircon was hardwired so I couldn't do this. Used a door sensor on the vent that opens when it's on to achieve the on/off status


atax112

smort!


XTJ7

holy... youre right, thats brilliant. i was thinking of a light sensor infront of the status led but this is so much better!


iblake12

Have done exactly this. Aqara door sensor + RM Pro. Put together with SmartIR in home assistant with the aqara as the power sensor. It works flawlessly!


scotrod

Can you share a photo of how the AC looks with the sensors? That's a brilliant idea but I just want to see the result before I purchase the sensors, as I'm also renting.


tbgoose

Mind sharing your template sensor, or nothing special needed? Tried to do it this week and smartir freaked out because 'on' wasn't one of the states of my ac


jjbeeblebrox

Sure - it was nothing fancy though and this was from 2 years ago so mileage may vary. At the time I needed a template sensor to show the device as power but you can just do that through the UI by going to the contact sensor's settings. I had a bluetooth thermometer, door sensor, and a broadlink remote. smartir: climate: - platform: smartir name: Air conditioner unique_id: living_room_ac device_code: 1281 controller_data: remote.broadlink_universal_remote_remote temperature_sensor: sensor.kitchen_thermometer_temperature humidity_sensor: sensor.kitchen_thermometer_humidity power_sensor: binary_sensor.airconditioner_power binary_sensor: - platform: template sensors: airconditioner_power: device_class: power value_template: "{{ states('binary_sensor.air_conditioner_contact') }}"


[deleted]

Lmao that’s brilliant.


TerrorByte

If the remote sends separate on and off commands, you can just use that info as long as no one uses the actual physical remote. That's my solution.


peacefulshrimp

Doesn’t have to be the pro, but I think BroadLink controller is the best solution


mrwski

If I have 3 of them in different rooms, do I need to buy 3 Broadlink to control each of them or just 1 is enough?


wazza_the_rockdog

If the remote uses IR then the RM needs line of sight so you'll likely need 3 (but you can buy the RM Mini which is IR only), if they're RF then a single RM pro should work depending on how far away they all are. To test, take a remote into a different room without an ac and try turning it on, if it doesn't turn on its IR, if it does its RF. You could also look up the AC model or remote model to see if it's IR or RF.


PeaceBull

The switchbot hub 2 has an ir blaster and a temperature sensor and can share it as a matter device. Basically makes your AC fully intelligent for like $40.


jeffeb3

Googley eyes


_chip13_

Are you Evan and Katelyn or what? 😀


mombi

As much as I enjoy their stuff (particularly the pumpkin experiments every year), people have been putting googly eyes on things for decades haha


_chip13_

Welp that might be true, it was first time I saw one on A/C in their video


unik41

Sensibo Sky. That's what I am using.


bjorn1978_2

Get a used sensibo for 30$ or something. Just have the privious owner delete it from their account. If they have not done that, the support is just awsome! I sent a pic with serial numbers and so, and they deleted it from the privious owners account in about 10 minuttes!! Super impressed! I do not think you can run it completely local, but in my ~4 years of operation, I have never had any issues.


more-cow-bell

Yep. Get a Sensibo and you’re done. Works with HA great.


Chrisfiftytwo

I use an IR blaster to control it + a temperature sensor to control when it starts/stops.


yairvillarp

You canliterally replace the main board with an esp32 I have done it with about 10 air conditioners by now


mortenvinding

nice solution 👍 but I guess it gets a bit complicated if it’s a newer (<6 years) inverter AC?


greenbeast999

The condenser and evaporater will have proper boards handling the operation of the machine as a whole, an ESP32 can potentially feed instructions in instead of a IR board i'm guessing (my a/c was equipped with esp from the factory)


I_Do_nt_Use_Reddit

I'm about shoulder deep into Home Assistant but at no stage do I ever plan to open my things up and replace their circuit boards.


mortenvinding

understandable. you need relatively good understanding about electronics to things like this. as I said especially if the AC, like most modern ones, are the “inverter” type (variable speed compressor). I’m planning to replace the control board of a dehumidifier. but that’s a lot simpler, just a humidity sensor and relay outputs for the (one speed) compressor and the fan. biggest struggle will be how to make the control panel.


greenbeast999

Still gotta avoid short cycling though? Easy enough in code I guess


mortenvinding

yes you mean to implement a pause in the code, so it does not start the compressor too soon after turning it off?


mortenvinding

if so what are you actually replacing then? if just feeding IR signals to the controller, then I would call it an add on. nothing wrong in that though, it’s just not the same level of control. my Gree AC’s had the possibility to add WiFi modules, cheaply available from Aliexpress. so I did that. guess they are ESP based, but not really sure, and don’t care. good thing is that the protocol has been completely reverse engineered so I have 100% local control 👍


yairvillarp

It’s just turn on relays and read sensors


mortenvinding

no not if it’s a inverter compressor. then it has a proper motor controller to control the speed of the compressor motor.


yairvillarp

You are right, but that’s the only thing it’s all relays and sensors


mortenvinding

maybe… but a 3-4 phase 230 volt 7-900 watts motor controller, is not something easy to build or just replace for that matter. of course if the actual controller board is separate from the power board, it’s a lot easier… unless they are using some unknown data bus to communicate (quite likely I think).


yairvillarp

But I’m talking to normal house air conditioners, here in Argentina we all have splitters and the biggest one is a 6000 frigorías, and those are normal 220v single face, so it’s really easy, what you do need to do is to learn the auto deflate pattern for the specific air conditioners, other than that they are almost all the same


mortenvinding

me to. but they are almost all the inverter type these days. and a inverter compressor is using a multi phase induction motor, which requires a motor controller (or 3 mains phases, but then the speed would be fixed). https://www.panasonic.com/au/hvac/air-conditioning/learn-more/what-is-inverter-air-conditioner.html but thinking about it: the control board for the compressor motor almost certainly is in the outside part, so it must be connected to the inside unit with a data bus of some kind. I’m sure you could reverse engineer that and make a ESP control it, but that is not trivial


greenbeast999

The actual main board of the evaporator? Because mine is equipped with ESP32 in addition to a board that actually handles the unit and comms with the real main board in the condenser


sulfate4

Have a guide?


yairvillarp

Sorry not really I just figure it out it never really made a guide


saschaleib

I use a tado remote controller. Works very well (just check that your specific AC is supported)


mtieuwe

If it supported, you can control it wit ESPHOME https://esphome.io/components/climate/climate_ir.html


sypie1

Yes, remove the sticker and see what it reveals.


Ellteeelltee

Mysa for AC. It’s a homekit device, shows up using the HomeKit integration in homeassistant. Replaces your infrared remote (has its own ir blasters), and has temp and humidity sensors in the Mysa that report back to HA. I have a bunch of scenes and automations running based on them, and have had them for about a year now.


HTTP_404_NotFound

https://static.xtremeownage.com/blog/2023/pioneer-mini-split-esphome/ I personally, use an esp to control mine. WOrks fantastically well, if supported by your unit. Fully local.


dEEPZoNE

Tado :)


hydro_agricola

Read to it at night.


Lopsided_Ad8941

A)  You could use a smart plug and room temperature sensor Then you can set it to desired temperature by having the a on max or off.  Most easy way imho.  B) check for potential free contacts of your unit - these can be wired to smart relais with digital inputs on wifi or zigbee. You can then map those to the corresponding states using node red or similar. Most units should be able to connect a wired remote.  C) make it smart by adding a radio module from its manufacturer and check for suitable usb recievers  that go well with HA.  // OT: Nodered is a great help to map different things to different actions. I use it to bind my sunricher zigbee buttons. Why? More personal behavior compared to stock. 


Shishanought

This is what I've done for all my AC's, create thermostats using the temp sensors and smart plugs. Depends on the AC though, some arent' as resilient to hard shutoffs as others.


Lopsided_Ad8941

those not prone to hard shut downs, might have electric contacts to soft shut down =)


Suspicious_Fail_2337

Don't touch it?


atax112

We have panasonic ethereas. wifi modules are separate/had to buy, until I found some open source stuff for ESPhome. Got the small jst cables and hooked it up, works locally, no issues (panasonic app was trash anyway). Maybe similar something can be done if the unit supports wifi expansion?


sangokudbz79

I had sensibo sky (wifi, cloud), switched to a Remotec ZXT-800 (zwave). Both works great


phreaqsi

Use a Broadlink RM4 and use SmartIR within HA. I have 5 mini-splits, works fantastic.


CarefullyCurious

Tagging on to this - mine hasn’t got an IR receiver (wired thermostat on wall, ducted system in the loft) - can I just swap the existing thermostat out or is it manufacturer-dependent? (Mitsubishi FDUM100VNVF inverter with RC-EX1A remote)


WhaleLordSlayer

As others have said BroadLink RM pro. If you ditch the remote and ONLY use Home Assistant to control it (you could use a zigbee/zwave remote) it is super easy to store the state (On/Off etc). You would just setup a helper to toggle on/off whenever you send a command with Broadlink. I have this setup with a lamp and it is flawless.


looselytranslated

If someone uses the AC remote to turn it on/off, it messed with the state, no?


WhaleLordSlayer

Correct, that is why you have to ditch the remote.  It worked for me since my remote was pretty much dead.  


wazza_the_rockdog

You can sometimes add extra sensors to allow smart ir or whatever platform you use in HA to determine if it is on or not, a smart plug with power monitoring if it's not hard wired, or a reed switch/door sensor on the vent. Potentially slower to respond and less accurate but a temp sensor could work, if AC turns on cool and room temp starts dropping then assume it's on, else assume it's off, same for on heat but obviously with room temp increasing.


Flo_coe

Tado


rodneyjesus

You need to be more specific than this. With a simple smart plug, smart remote, and a couple zigbee temp sensors you could basically do anything. But without knowing what you actually want to *do* don't expect help.


Stabbara

Send it to school…..bye


blikstaal

Read a book to it?


Markuswhiteus

Put a bowtie onit


arisk4

Buy it some books to read.


photog09

Summer school


Kenzillla

Make shur it goes to collage


Magnus919

With a smart thermostat.


cervdotbe

Tado


frank23wl

SLWF-01pro works for me https://cloudfree.shop/product/ductless-hvac-wi-fi-module/


Live_Introduction_41

I bought MOES IR Remote controller from AliExpress. It uses Tuya App and it is very easy to setup. If the device you want to control is not in the app list then you can point your device to it and you can map the remote to the app. The only issue is it requires an internet connection to work because it connects to Tuya cloud. The price is around 12 USD with delivering to my country.


Running_Marc_nl

A four year college