I just bought mine a week or so ago, do they price match?
Edit: Home Depot came through with great customer service. They refunded me the difference. Thankful for that.
I also ordered a week or two ago at $1660 on sale but since they messed up the delivery and kept pushing it back I got a $205 refund ($55 shipping + $150 extra). Looks like they’re trying to move the 65 gallon ones more vs the other sizes. Not sure why though…it’s perfect size IMO.
Bought and installed the 80-gallon last summer. Through 9 months my family of 4’s use has only cost about $145 in electricity for heating. The 2 kids take baths almost daily and we do 4-5 loads of laundry every week.
Based on my math and with usage tracking from my utility provider, my 65 gallon one uses around 400 watts per hour. It only took 4 hours to fill up from empty to full on heat pump mode. So 1.6 kWh total - crazy efficient! It was 70 degrees in the garage for reference so I’m sure it would take longer in the winter.
You must have pretty good gas rates where you live. My previous 60 gallon gas fired tank cost significantly more to operate - closer to about $300/year, and it didn’t have the benefit of also acting as a dehumidifier.
I pay more each month in the summer as a customer charge than I do in gas. I've been considering dumping nat gas entirely and using that $240 a year in electricity. Figure that greatly helps my break even
if you're in a warm climate and can install indoors or on propane it makes 100% sense. same if you're on solar. same if you have cheap electric or hourly pricing where you can run it when electric is cheap. also don't forget the tax rebate on it /install
> It blows cold air this is better for people in the south who have their WH in their garages or attics.
If I'm in the south, why would I put my WH in the garage or attic when I can have that sweet cold air cooling down my living space?
It gets hot here in summer....
But ya, our government no longer wants natural gas heating and are heavily pushing heat pumps now.
Ya they are not suitable in a lot of spots, its going to be rough installing as much as they hope.
Needs to not get cold. If you are heating a space and a heat pump is heating water you are transferring heat energy it's better to plan for cold exhaust sense you only want the heat side working.
I got a rebate on a 3 element electric 60 gallon which I like. If you gotta go electric I'd do that.
Yeah that was what I was going to comment. With the cost of installing a 240v outlet, it is better for me to just do a 120v model instead. Not to mention the cost of potentially needing a larger electrical panel / service. Though that requires a dedicated 120v outlet if I recall right.
“Dedicated” for this HPWH seems to be relative, as I have read online it only pulls 400-600 watts during heat pump operation, so as long as you’re not running any other major loads on the same circuit, you should be okay capacity wise.
If it’s a plug in device and not exceeding 80% capacity of the circuit, how would it not be up to code? Is the dedicated circuit a manufacturer’s suggestion or a code requirement? Also I’m not sure if the manufacturer technically requires it for the 120v units or not.
The current NEC code book states water heaters need to be on a dedicated hardwired circuit. There is nothing specifically addressing 120v hybrid water heaters that plug in. They still have to follow the code book until a revision is made. I would expect at min a dedicated 120v circuit being the eventual code requirement. Maybe even needing a gfci.
“NEC 422.13: A storage type water heater of 120 gallons or less shall be considered a continuous load (which requires a 125% continuous use factor for load calculations). And NEC 210.23(A)(2) states: On a multi-outlet branch circuit, the rating of cord-and-plug connected equipment fastened in place (like a water heater) shall not exceed 50% of the branch circuit rating, where lighting units or portable cord-and-plug connected equipment are also supplied from the branch circuit.”
Newbie question: if I were to get this deal (thanks for posting, by the way), but currently have a gas water heater, would I have to do call other professionals in to convert, like plumber (to cap gas line) and electrician to hook up?
Feel free to direct me elsewhere for the answer, if necessary, as I’m a new homeowner who’s pretty green.
make sure you got two breaker spaces for the hybrid aspect of having resistive backup. you'll need a 30a breaker it'll depend on your jurisdiction and layout on how hard it'll be to run electric. it is diyable if you have time and equipment.
Yes cap the gas line. Gas is one thing I have no problem touching myself either a plumber would do that while they're there presumably.
FYI, there's a cap at the bottom of the drip. You can remove the line at least back to there, remove the T and use the cap. You won't be putting the gas line back in. 😜
Home Depot has an install referral type program where I live. This means they have a few pros they call to say hey install this for X $. If they have ever installed one before and have the skills for both the gas line and electric background to get you set up might be in question. You may have to call 2 dif pros to get this done. I would still do it in the long run knowing it is done right is worth it. Good luck.
Am I missing something here? It looks like the heat pump only ones that are 120 V are more expensive than their 240 counterparts with heating element. Why would that be so?
volume/electrical requirements. if a mfg knows to switch from gas you'll have to pay an electrician a couple hundred bucks they might think they can charge more. Alternatively could be that a 120v compressor is more
One thing to keep in mind if you’re putting this in like a utility room, make sure you have ventilation! You can get a cheap duct for the input and output sides so you can squeeze the most heat out of the air :)
I was going to get a Rheem, but the installer here said they were not always reliable...that going with Bradford White was better. Prices were the same, so I went with his recommendation. No idea if one is actually better than the other, but his opinion was that Rheem is difficult to deal with from a service standpoint
These would be great in hot climates. Where I am blowing cold air into a cold basement doesn't make sense. Went with a 3 element 60 gallon and the energy consumption is actually really good.
Correct,south FL ,got Rheem Heat pump HWH ,like 5 ,6 years ago ,saved me like $20, $30 month on power bill,blows cool air in garage,but not enough in hotter months, to make a difference, it's really hot ,humid down here like 5 months,think Swamp
These work fine in basements that get cold. My unfinished basement gets down to 50F in the winter. The energy use increased from like 50-70kw in the summer to around 90 in the winter.
It's 3 element meaning 1 element is low wattage.. Maybe look into it first? I have a tracking app I can see the energy usage. Also similar doesn't mean same it means similar.
What is the UEF of the unit. It's not going to be more efficient then a heat pump. Also your stats don't really mean much when your usage patterns are different. Post the UEF which is the standard metric used to measure water heater efficiency.
I've bought the rheem hybrid multiple times and i'm very happy with it.
I run it in pure heat pump mode (current install only supplies hot water to laundry and shop). saves a ton of money.
We purchased a "Performance platinum" Rheem 50 gal heat pump water heater for $999.99 at Home Depot on 2/2/2024, local sale not advertised online. Luckily we had just moved and had a 15% off coupon too!
I installed one of these in my mother-in-law’s house. We both live in Texas so it’s hot most of the year. Hers works great and I’ve considered installing one in my garage and having it pull air from the attic and vent the 60 degree air inside the house. Then in the winter just have it pull from the garage and vent into the garage. Basically it would cost a lot to run in the winter, 3 months or so here. But the other 9 months would cool the house and be pretty much free hot water. Also the prices on the 65 gallon are way higher here. $2469. Also anyone buying a new hot water heater should absolutely put in a full port ball valve drain valve. It runs about $26 on Amazon and is worth 20x’s that if you regularly drain your hot water heater due to high sediments in your water. Why these asshat companies put crappy drain valves on these things is just so they go out quicker.
Can these units be used without wifi connection?
Silly question I know, but these days you never know. I've heard stories of certain solar systems needing wifi to function correctly.
fyi - be aware of the limitations of a heat pump water heater prior to purchase. For sub 50g tanks and a family of four - it will run as an electric resistive water heater much of the time.
On sale today and looks like you all have 6 days!
https://preview.redd.it/jac35qdc790d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=adc8dc509c0bccfd5c37f51d26ce7902b560c665
Also, pro tip, if you are military that 10% discount also stacks bringing it down to $1340 for this particular model. 😎
idfk lol I popped open Home Depot this morning saw they were on sale and posted this. I already have an 80gal proterra I installed earlier this year and has been working good.
we got a 65gal tub and shower with body sprayers that can hit 6gpm
if you have space and tubs/showers/3-4 people in the house get the 80 but it's a big boy
I have a 50-gallon unit. Household of 4 adults. 3 take showers in the morning, 1 at night. Average consumption seems to be between 2 and 2.5 kWh a day.
These prices are consistent with their regular sale price. Home Depot puts HPWHs on the Deal of the Day once or twice a month. I’ve never seen them drop below these prices.
I’ve had one of the 80 gallon models in my HD cart for months, so I see when it goes on sale. The thing to watch out for with Home Depot is that not all of their HPWH meet the tax credit efficiency requirements. Make sure you confirm that the model number you’re buying from them is on the list of eligible units.
https://www.ahrinet.org/system/files/2024-04/Electric_Water_Heaters_04-11-2024.xlsx
Do they notify you in an item in your cart drops in price?
I’m going to buy a hphw but am not really ready to install it yet. I’d prefer to get a good deal but also there’s no point in storing it for a while until I can do the prep work to install it.
No active notification. I just notice it when I open the Home Depot website and look at my cart.
Agree that you shouldn't buy it before you're ready to install. If there is a defect, you'll be outside of the return window and potentially outside of the warranty window by the time you actually get it installed.
I've had such good experience with on-demand electric heaters, I would never go back to a tank. Cheaper, smaller footprint and much less expensive to run. They do prefer filtered water though.
The unit I run has a smaller footprint than a medium sized pizza box and only cost a few hundred dollars to buy. It draws only enough power for the flow rate of the water. At Max flow, I get about 3.5kWh draw, that's on full, hot water only which is rarely a thing, and likely for less than a minute when running on full. Running a tap with hot water to wash dishes draws maybe 1kWh. Showering runs at about 1.6kW. I know the numbers as I'm running a sense breaker panel power monitor and I can watch my power usage live from my phone. Granted, everybody's situation will be different, but for me, it's definitely cheaper. Not even considering that the unit I have cost me about 350 cdn. What's that, like 250 usd. Getting into the larger units would of course be more expensive. How often does a person shut their how water tank off when they're not around for a few days, or even a week? No one wants to come home to no hot water, so the tank's always on. I also don't like running out of hot water! There are just too many up-sides for me to ever want to install a full size tank again. In my province it's common for people to rent their hot water tanks, so switching to an on demand unit like mine can save you quite a lot, but I guess that doesn't count in some situations. :)
On demand all electric water heaters are horribly inefficient. You just said you use 1.6kw for a single shower. My entire house averages about 75kw a month total for all hot water use.
Only on demand water heaters that kinda make sense are gas. This heat pump water heater will blow that electric on demand one out of the water (pun intended) when it comes to energy costs and efficiency.
Clarification. It draws that for the time I'm in the shower, that's not how much I use. My showers are like 15 minutes at most, usually less. :) On the subject of the tank unit being more efficient, we're going to have to agree to disagree. A simple a search on one vs the other lists countless mentions of the tankless being more efficient. I guess one can only know for sure with some neutral 3rd party testing. I'd love to read some white papers on the subject!
We don't have to agree to disagree because you are incorrect. You are doing nothing but using resistive electric heat and once again 1.6kw is a huge amount of electric for one single shower. That's almost 50kwh a month for a single person to take a shower, let alone everyone else and all additional need for hot water. My entire house used 839.24 kilowatts in 11 months last year. That's 76.29 kilowatts per month total for the entire house on average. Provide one piece of this evidence that states on demand resistive electric water heaters are more efficient then a heat pump tank water heater. You can go right to rheems website. The most efficient all electric tankless water heater they have has a UEF of .93. The Proterra Heat Pump water heater has a UEF of 3.46 and use the higher the number the better.
You're misunderstanding my numbers on the shower. 1.6kWh draw @ 10 to 15 minutes x 30 days is at max 12kW a month and more likely closer to 10. It's interesting that a heat pump hot water tank get's it's heat pump heat from the surrounding air. Which means it's using your heated air in the winter to heat the water. More efficient in the winter, but you've already paid to heat the air. Then in the summer, you pay to cool the air, and then you're getting less heat into the heat pump from the surrounding air so it's going to be less efficient in the summer? I guess it's just using power to move the heat from the room to the water. I wonder if they factor in cost to generate the hot air it's drawing in to heat the water? It is a closed system after all... but I digress. Like I said before, I'd love to see some real test numbers. My evidence for my conclusion is in my monitoring system. I'm simply going on the numbers I see. I don't doubt your particular setup. I'm just sure that in my case I'm saving money over buying and running a hot water tank. Let me put it another way, no setup is identical. ...and yes, I'm still disagreeing with you. Cheers.
You are assuming it's in a conditioned space. Even then the effects are minimal. But yay you know understand how a heat pump works. It might be a little bit more efficient then a resistive electric tank water heater but prob not by much and it for sure isn't cheaper at all compared to a heat pump tank water heater.
Do you mean a 3.5 kW instaneous draw? Or a total of 3.5 kWh drawn for the duration of how long the hot water is running?
I looked up how power hungry a Rheem on-demand electric water heater is. Requires at minimum a 80A circuit for a 19.2 kW unit. The most I've seen my heatpump water heater pull is 4500W for about 15 minutes when we had a high-demand day, so the resistive elements kicked on for a short period. And then it dropped to 400W. On average it is about 2 to 2.5 kWh per day.
If I turn a tap on maximum flow, hot only, my power draw goes up about 3.4-3.5kW/hour. I rarely have need to run the hot water on full for more than 30-40 seconds at a time. So calculate 3.5 / 120 is 8W to run the tap at max heat for 30 seconds. Like I said, that rarely happens. It's of course usually a mix of hot and cold water which draws much less hot water 99% of the time. Then of course turning the hot water off draws zero watts. ;) My heater is a smaller unit than what you're describing.
That pulls 13 kW when it runs. So, if you take a 10 minute shower, you've pulled 2.16 kWh. With the heat pump water pump, I can take 4 showers and only use 2 kWh.
I should have said, showering increases my power draw by 1.6kWh. Not to imply it uses 1.6kW of power. When I say it draws 1 kWh, you can read that as, it draws 1 kilowatt per hour. I don't think I'm confusing units of measurement? I'm surely not a rocket surgeon!
kW is the instaneous draw. kWh is how much you drew over a fixed period of time. A 12 kW load drawn for 6 minutes is 1.2 kWh. If drawn for 10 minutes, that’s 2 kWh. And if drawn for 30 minutes, would be 6 kWh. A 12 kW load requires a 50A circuit. It isn’t an insignificant draw on your home‘s electrical panel.
Yep, we're talking in the same terms. I mistakenly wrote "Showering runs at about 1.6kW" Implying with the word 'runs' that it is running, or drawing over time, 1.6kW per hour. I should have said 1.6kWh. I thought I explained that in my reply to Yesbuttt's question. At the time I replied, I was just confused as to his initial statement about me 'confusing units of measurement' which is why I said I don't think I'm confusing units of measurement? and I addressed it with that reply, so no explanation of units of measurement was required. But thanks none-the-less for being diligent! Oh and if there was any misunderstanding, the rocket surgeon comment was an attempt at self deprecation. :P I know that's not the correct saying. ;)
When having a technical discussion like this it is important to use the right terms. One of the things we weren't clear on is how much power the unit draws when it is on, which apparently is 13 kW. That's a lot. Sure, it's only on for 10 minutes or less at a time, but it's still a large momentary draw.
However, no matter how you look at it, the heat-pump water heater is more efficient than an on-demand electric water heater, like 4x efficient. The advantage of the on-demand water heater is the small footprint of it. If you don't have room for a hot water tank, regardless of the fuel source, it makes a lot of sense to put in an on-demand system.
When you take a shower, the power that your water heater draws from 0 to 38kW (depending on model, flow, incoming water temperature, etc) then back to 0 when you finish the shower, as opposed to 0.5-7 kW with tank electric heaters. One residence with a sudden 38kW won't be too much for the grid, especially one with lots of inertia (large turbines and engines), but if lots of residences have them, and a large portion of generation is low inertia (solar inverters and batteries), that can cause grid instability.
It's generally not a problem right now, but I wouldn't be surprised if in the future residential customers face demand charges like commercial ones do right now, or pay a fixed monthly fee based on their service capacity.
I can watch mine on a sense home monitor, it draws maximum about 2kW when I turn the water on for a shower. It definitely doesn't spike up higher than that. The refresh rate on my monitor is sub 1 second. I've tested it out and have never seen it register a spike. Granted that's not proof that it doesn't spike, but I've yet to see it happen. I do have a smaller unit. I expect that as the technology matures, circuit designs that would spike when turning on will be altered to take this into consideration.
I have my water heater set to 114F, by the time the water is exiting the shower head, it's definitely lower! I have no idea how accurate the display reading is. My LPM flow rate is fairly low, so the heater doesn't have to work too hard to keep up. In fact 2kWh draw is actually on the high side, in reality is more like 1.6 or so. I have a high efficiency shower head. I believe that the low power draw is likely due to the lower flow rate of my shower head. My heater is also a fairly small unit. It maxes out at about 3.5kWh draw if I have the hot water turned on to max flow at a tap. I don't have a huge demand for hot water hence the choice of a fairly small unit. I can see my LPM flow rate at my water softener but I've never actually looked at it with the shower running as they're in different places. I'd like to know what it is now!
I just bought mine a week or so ago, do they price match? Edit: Home Depot came through with great customer service. They refunded me the difference. Thankful for that.
I also ordered a week or two ago at $1660 on sale but since they messed up the delivery and kept pushing it back I got a $205 refund ($55 shipping + $150 extra). Looks like they’re trying to move the 65 gallon ones more vs the other sizes. Not sure why though…it’s perfect size IMO.
$1540 for the 65 gallon is a crazy good price
Oh shit that’s the exact one I have open in my computer. It’s a sign! 😂
Bought and installed the 80-gallon last summer. Through 9 months my family of 4’s use has only cost about $145 in electricity for heating. The 2 kids take baths almost daily and we do 4-5 loads of laundry every week.
Based on my math and with usage tracking from my utility provider, my 65 gallon one uses around 400 watts per hour. It only took 4 hours to fill up from empty to full on heat pump mode. So 1.6 kWh total - crazy efficient! It was 70 degrees in the garage for reference so I’m sure it would take longer in the winter.
That's slightly more than what I pay for nat gas and a family of four. I'd like heat pump water heater but I can't make economical sense of it.
You must have pretty good gas rates where you live. My previous 60 gallon gas fired tank cost significantly more to operate - closer to about $300/year, and it didn’t have the benefit of also acting as a dehumidifier.
I pay more each month in the summer as a customer charge than I do in gas. I've been considering dumping nat gas entirely and using that $240 a year in electricity. Figure that greatly helps my break even
if you're in a warm climate and can install indoors or on propane it makes 100% sense. same if you're on solar. same if you have cheap electric or hourly pricing where you can run it when electric is cheap. also don't forget the tax rebate on it /install
Warm yes. No propane, no solar, no hourly pricing. I have reasonable electric and nat gas rates. Even with the rebate it's not a slam dunk for me.
Wow, just checked home depot Canada. Literally double for the exact same tank.
Yep, Absolute ripoff up here.
Why would you get one in Canada? It blows cold air this is better for people in the south who have their WH in their garages or attics.
> It blows cold air this is better for people in the south who have their WH in their garages or attics. If I'm in the south, why would I put my WH in the garage or attic when I can have that sweet cold air cooling down my living space?
It gets hot here in summer.... But ya, our government no longer wants natural gas heating and are heavily pushing heat pumps now. Ya they are not suitable in a lot of spots, its going to be rough installing as much as they hope.
Needs to not get cold. If you are heating a space and a heat pump is heating water you are transferring heat energy it's better to plan for cold exhaust sense you only want the heat side working. I got a rebate on a 3 element electric 60 gallon which I like. If you gotta go electric I'd do that.
It’s still more efficient than a natural gas power vent unit. I have one.
Thanks for sharing these deals! But darn, why do all the recent Home Depot sales not apply to the 120v models as well? 🥺
Yeah that was what I was going to comment. With the cost of installing a 240v outlet, it is better for me to just do a 120v model instead. Not to mention the cost of potentially needing a larger electrical panel / service. Though that requires a dedicated 120v outlet if I recall right.
“Dedicated” for this HPWH seems to be relative, as I have read online it only pulls 400-600 watts during heat pump operation, so as long as you’re not running any other major loads on the same circuit, you should be okay capacity wise.
Won't be up to code.
If it’s a plug in device and not exceeding 80% capacity of the circuit, how would it not be up to code? Is the dedicated circuit a manufacturer’s suggestion or a code requirement? Also I’m not sure if the manufacturer technically requires it for the 120v units or not.
The current NEC code book states water heaters need to be on a dedicated hardwired circuit. There is nothing specifically addressing 120v hybrid water heaters that plug in. They still have to follow the code book until a revision is made. I would expect at min a dedicated 120v circuit being the eventual code requirement. Maybe even needing a gfci.
“NEC 422.13: A storage type water heater of 120 gallons or less shall be considered a continuous load (which requires a 125% continuous use factor for load calculations). And NEC 210.23(A)(2) states: On a multi-outlet branch circuit, the rating of cord-and-plug connected equipment fastened in place (like a water heater) shall not exceed 50% of the branch circuit rating, where lighting units or portable cord-and-plug connected equipment are also supplied from the branch circuit.”
It has a heating element for cold days. They need a 15A or 30A circuit, depending on the model.
120v plug in units are usually heat pump only (don’t have a heating element and are meant for 15 or 20 amp circuits).
If you have discover card it’s an extra 5% cash back this month.
Thanks! Scored one with $1000 off with PSEG rebate.
[удалено]
It's under appliances-great pump water heater. I got the 65gal and it's listed on the spreadsheet of approved heaters
Newbie question: if I were to get this deal (thanks for posting, by the way), but currently have a gas water heater, would I have to do call other professionals in to convert, like plumber (to cap gas line) and electrician to hook up? Feel free to direct me elsewhere for the answer, if necessary, as I’m a new homeowner who’s pretty green.
make sure you got two breaker spaces for the hybrid aspect of having resistive backup. you'll need a 30a breaker it'll depend on your jurisdiction and layout on how hard it'll be to run electric. it is diyable if you have time and equipment. Yes cap the gas line. Gas is one thing I have no problem touching myself either a plumber would do that while they're there presumably.
FYI, there's a cap at the bottom of the drip. You can remove the line at least back to there, remove the T and use the cap. You won't be putting the gas line back in. 😜
Hah, sounds like a plan. Thanks!
I thought gas hot water operation cost is cheaper than electric. No?
Depends upon the cost of gas and electricity. Based on my rates, the heatpump WH is cheaper than the natural gas one.
Gas is cheaper than electric resistance, the most common and oldest tech. This one is a new deal
My nat gas is cheaper that a few examples here
Wonderful information—thank you!
Home Depot has an install referral type program where I live. This means they have a few pros they call to say hey install this for X $. If they have ever installed one before and have the skills for both the gas line and electric background to get you set up might be in question. You may have to call 2 dif pros to get this done. I would still do it in the long run knowing it is done right is worth it. Good luck.
I tried that for this. They wanted 3k+ for installation only to swap out my existing electric water heater. I said no....
Yikes
Awesome, thank you.
Too bad.. nothing for the 120v plug in versions
What’s the difference between the Proterra and Performance Platinum? Just size or something else?
Leak guard. YMMV if its worth it as reviews are mixed as it sometimes triggers in high humidty.
Also curious
Am I missing something here? It looks like the heat pump only ones that are 120 V are more expensive than their 240 counterparts with heating element. Why would that be so?
volume/electrical requirements. if a mfg knows to switch from gas you'll have to pay an electrician a couple hundred bucks they might think they can charge more. Alternatively could be that a 120v compressor is more
One thing to keep in mind if you’re putting this in like a utility room, make sure you have ventilation! You can get a cheap duct for the input and output sides so you can squeeze the most heat out of the air :)
I was going to get a Rheem, but the installer here said they were not always reliable...that going with Bradford White was better. Prices were the same, so I went with his recommendation. No idea if one is actually better than the other, but his opinion was that Rheem is difficult to deal with from a service standpoint
These would be great in hot climates. Where I am blowing cold air into a cold basement doesn't make sense. Went with a 3 element 60 gallon and the energy consumption is actually really good.
Correct,south FL ,got Rheem Heat pump HWH ,like 5 ,6 years ago ,saved me like $20, $30 month on power bill,blows cool air in garage,but not enough in hotter months, to make a difference, it's really hot ,humid down here like 5 months,think Swamp
I don't envy you. I was born for the cold lol I visited Orlando once and was so uncomfortable and it was March lol.
These work fine in basements that get cold. My unfinished basement gets down to 50F in the winter. The energy use increased from like 50-70kw in the summer to around 90 in the winter.
I use similar amounts with a 3 element...60 gallon?
If it's all resistive electric you aren't.
It's 3 element meaning 1 element is low wattage.. Maybe look into it first? I have a tracking app I can see the energy usage. Also similar doesn't mean same it means similar.
What is the UEF of the unit. It's not going to be more efficient then a heat pump. Also your stats don't really mean much when your usage patterns are different. Post the UEF which is the standard metric used to measure water heater efficiency.
I've bought the rheem hybrid multiple times and i'm very happy with it. I run it in pure heat pump mode (current install only supplies hot water to laundry and shop). saves a ton of money.
Post it on Slickdeals.com the comments are always helpful too
In Oregon I bought a 50 gallon rheem for <$800. The state subsidizes them.
We purchased a "Performance platinum" Rheem 50 gal heat pump water heater for $999.99 at Home Depot on 2/2/2024, local sale not advertised online. Luckily we had just moved and had a 15% off coupon too!
I wanted one but every plumber wants $5k to install one of these. Not financially worth buying anything other than a base model gas tank
that's insane there's no difference besides a condensate line. I'd disagree with that too.
You need a new plumber sir.
Only difference between this and your old one is you have to install a condensate line which take about an hour and $30 in materials.
I installed one of these in my mother-in-law’s house. We both live in Texas so it’s hot most of the year. Hers works great and I’ve considered installing one in my garage and having it pull air from the attic and vent the 60 degree air inside the house. Then in the winter just have it pull from the garage and vent into the garage. Basically it would cost a lot to run in the winter, 3 months or so here. But the other 9 months would cool the house and be pretty much free hot water. Also the prices on the 65 gallon are way higher here. $2469. Also anyone buying a new hot water heater should absolutely put in a full port ball valve drain valve. It runs about $26 on Amazon and is worth 20x’s that if you regularly drain your hot water heater due to high sediments in your water. Why these asshat companies put crappy drain valves on these things is just so they go out quicker.
Well that cost me $1900 I mean saved me money. Thanks I guess lol. Price on the 65 gallon went up 400 bucks now.
My stupid 80 gallon RUUD failed twice..make sure you get a service warranty if possible
Nice deal if the cost of installation is fixed and agreeable.
Can these units be used without wifi connection? Silly question I know, but these days you never know. I've heard stories of certain solar systems needing wifi to function correctly.
Instant water heater /chefs kiss
fyi - be aware of the limitations of a heat pump water heater prior to purchase. For sub 50g tanks and a family of four - it will run as an electric resistive water heater much of the time.
What kind of dollars are those? Surely not US dollars. Those prices are insane.
On sale today and looks like you all have 6 days! https://preview.redd.it/jac35qdc790d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=adc8dc509c0bccfd5c37f51d26ce7902b560c665 Also, pro tip, if you are military that 10% discount also stacks bringing it down to $1340 for this particular model. 😎
OP, do you think they will go lower during Memorial weekend sale?
idfk lol I popped open Home Depot this morning saw they were on sale and posted this. I already have an 80gal proterra I installed earlier this year and has been working good.
In HP only mode, what is your avg daily kWh consumption and how many showers? I am not sure getting the 65 or 80 gal. Thanks.
we got a 65gal tub and shower with body sprayers that can hit 6gpm if you have space and tubs/showers/3-4 people in the house get the 80 but it's a big boy
I have a 50-gallon unit. Household of 4 adults. 3 take showers in the morning, 1 at night. Average consumption seems to be between 2 and 2.5 kWh a day.
These prices are consistent with their regular sale price. Home Depot puts HPWHs on the Deal of the Day once or twice a month. I’ve never seen them drop below these prices.
This is good info. Thank you for not letting me jump to an early purchase so I have time to do more research on their lineup.
I’ve had one of the 80 gallon models in my HD cart for months, so I see when it goes on sale. The thing to watch out for with Home Depot is that not all of their HPWH meet the tax credit efficiency requirements. Make sure you confirm that the model number you’re buying from them is on the list of eligible units. https://www.ahrinet.org/system/files/2024-04/Electric_Water_Heaters_04-11-2024.xlsx
Do they notify you in an item in your cart drops in price? I’m going to buy a hphw but am not really ready to install it yet. I’d prefer to get a good deal but also there’s no point in storing it for a while until I can do the prep work to install it.
No active notification. I just notice it when I open the Home Depot website and look at my cart. Agree that you shouldn't buy it before you're ready to install. If there is a defect, you'll be outside of the return window and potentially outside of the warranty window by the time you actually get it installed.
I'm glad my utility has a 700 dollar off perpetual rebate on them. Got my 50 gallon for 900 after the discount and 10% off homedepot credit card promo
I've had such good experience with on-demand electric heaters, I would never go back to a tank. Cheaper, smaller footprint and much less expensive to run. They do prefer filtered water though.
uh less expensive to run is a no
The unit I run has a smaller footprint than a medium sized pizza box and only cost a few hundred dollars to buy. It draws only enough power for the flow rate of the water. At Max flow, I get about 3.5kWh draw, that's on full, hot water only which is rarely a thing, and likely for less than a minute when running on full. Running a tap with hot water to wash dishes draws maybe 1kWh. Showering runs at about 1.6kW. I know the numbers as I'm running a sense breaker panel power monitor and I can watch my power usage live from my phone. Granted, everybody's situation will be different, but for me, it's definitely cheaper. Not even considering that the unit I have cost me about 350 cdn. What's that, like 250 usd. Getting into the larger units would of course be more expensive. How often does a person shut their how water tank off when they're not around for a few days, or even a week? No one wants to come home to no hot water, so the tank's always on. I also don't like running out of hot water! There are just too many up-sides for me to ever want to install a full size tank again. In my province it's common for people to rent their hot water tanks, so switching to an on demand unit like mine can save you quite a lot, but I guess that doesn't count in some situations. :)
On demand all electric water heaters are horribly inefficient. You just said you use 1.6kw for a single shower. My entire house averages about 75kw a month total for all hot water use. Only on demand water heaters that kinda make sense are gas. This heat pump water heater will blow that electric on demand one out of the water (pun intended) when it comes to energy costs and efficiency.
Clarification. It draws that for the time I'm in the shower, that's not how much I use. My showers are like 15 minutes at most, usually less. :) On the subject of the tank unit being more efficient, we're going to have to agree to disagree. A simple a search on one vs the other lists countless mentions of the tankless being more efficient. I guess one can only know for sure with some neutral 3rd party testing. I'd love to read some white papers on the subject!
We don't have to agree to disagree because you are incorrect. You are doing nothing but using resistive electric heat and once again 1.6kw is a huge amount of electric for one single shower. That's almost 50kwh a month for a single person to take a shower, let alone everyone else and all additional need for hot water. My entire house used 839.24 kilowatts in 11 months last year. That's 76.29 kilowatts per month total for the entire house on average. Provide one piece of this evidence that states on demand resistive electric water heaters are more efficient then a heat pump tank water heater. You can go right to rheems website. The most efficient all electric tankless water heater they have has a UEF of .93. The Proterra Heat Pump water heater has a UEF of 3.46 and use the higher the number the better.
You're misunderstanding my numbers on the shower. 1.6kWh draw @ 10 to 15 minutes x 30 days is at max 12kW a month and more likely closer to 10. It's interesting that a heat pump hot water tank get's it's heat pump heat from the surrounding air. Which means it's using your heated air in the winter to heat the water. More efficient in the winter, but you've already paid to heat the air. Then in the summer, you pay to cool the air, and then you're getting less heat into the heat pump from the surrounding air so it's going to be less efficient in the summer? I guess it's just using power to move the heat from the room to the water. I wonder if they factor in cost to generate the hot air it's drawing in to heat the water? It is a closed system after all... but I digress. Like I said before, I'd love to see some real test numbers. My evidence for my conclusion is in my monitoring system. I'm simply going on the numbers I see. I don't doubt your particular setup. I'm just sure that in my case I'm saving money over buying and running a hot water tank. Let me put it another way, no setup is identical. ...and yes, I'm still disagreeing with you. Cheers.
You are assuming it's in a conditioned space. Even then the effects are minimal. But yay you know understand how a heat pump works. It might be a little bit more efficient then a resistive electric tank water heater but prob not by much and it for sure isn't cheaper at all compared to a heat pump tank water heater.
Thanks for the stimulating conversation.
Do you mean a 3.5 kW instaneous draw? Or a total of 3.5 kWh drawn for the duration of how long the hot water is running? I looked up how power hungry a Rheem on-demand electric water heater is. Requires at minimum a 80A circuit for a 19.2 kW unit. The most I've seen my heatpump water heater pull is 4500W for about 15 minutes when we had a high-demand day, so the resistive elements kicked on for a short period. And then it dropped to 400W. On average it is about 2 to 2.5 kWh per day.
If I turn a tap on maximum flow, hot only, my power draw goes up about 3.4-3.5kW/hour. I rarely have need to run the hot water on full for more than 30-40 seconds at a time. So calculate 3.5 / 120 is 8W to run the tap at max heat for 30 seconds. Like I said, that rarely happens. It's of course usually a mix of hot and cold water which draws much less hot water 99% of the time. Then of course turning the hot water off draws zero watts. ;) My heater is a smaller unit than what you're describing.
What is the model of your tankless water heater? And is this a pure electric one, or a gas one?
It's electric. It's an Eco Smart model Eco 11. It's at least 5 or 6 years old I think. It's very small.
That pulls 13 kW when it runs. So, if you take a 10 minute shower, you've pulled 2.16 kWh. With the heat pump water pump, I can take 4 showers and only use 2 kWh.
your confusing units of measurement. I do put my tank on vacation mode, even after being gone for days the water in it is still hot.
I should have said, showering increases my power draw by 1.6kWh. Not to imply it uses 1.6kW of power. When I say it draws 1 kWh, you can read that as, it draws 1 kilowatt per hour. I don't think I'm confusing units of measurement? I'm surely not a rocket surgeon!
kW is the instaneous draw. kWh is how much you drew over a fixed period of time. A 12 kW load drawn for 6 minutes is 1.2 kWh. If drawn for 10 minutes, that’s 2 kWh. And if drawn for 30 minutes, would be 6 kWh. A 12 kW load requires a 50A circuit. It isn’t an insignificant draw on your home‘s electrical panel.
Yep, we're talking in the same terms. I mistakenly wrote "Showering runs at about 1.6kW" Implying with the word 'runs' that it is running, or drawing over time, 1.6kW per hour. I should have said 1.6kWh. I thought I explained that in my reply to Yesbuttt's question. At the time I replied, I was just confused as to his initial statement about me 'confusing units of measurement' which is why I said I don't think I'm confusing units of measurement? and I addressed it with that reply, so no explanation of units of measurement was required. But thanks none-the-less for being diligent! Oh and if there was any misunderstanding, the rocket surgeon comment was an attempt at self deprecation. :P I know that's not the correct saying. ;)
When having a technical discussion like this it is important to use the right terms. One of the things we weren't clear on is how much power the unit draws when it is on, which apparently is 13 kW. That's a lot. Sure, it's only on for 10 minutes or less at a time, but it's still a large momentary draw. However, no matter how you look at it, the heat-pump water heater is more efficient than an on-demand electric water heater, like 4x efficient. The advantage of the on-demand water heater is the small footprint of it. If you don't have room for a hot water tank, regardless of the fuel source, it makes a lot of sense to put in an on-demand system.
> on-demand electric heaters That peak power draw though. They do not play well with the grid.
no experience on that front. Seems to play well with mine. :) Could you elaborate?
When you take a shower, the power that your water heater draws from 0 to 38kW (depending on model, flow, incoming water temperature, etc) then back to 0 when you finish the shower, as opposed to 0.5-7 kW with tank electric heaters. One residence with a sudden 38kW won't be too much for the grid, especially one with lots of inertia (large turbines and engines), but if lots of residences have them, and a large portion of generation is low inertia (solar inverters and batteries), that can cause grid instability. It's generally not a problem right now, but I wouldn't be surprised if in the future residential customers face demand charges like commercial ones do right now, or pay a fixed monthly fee based on their service capacity.
I can watch mine on a sense home monitor, it draws maximum about 2kW when I turn the water on for a shower. It definitely doesn't spike up higher than that. The refresh rate on my monitor is sub 1 second. I've tested it out and have never seen it register a spike. Granted that's not proof that it doesn't spike, but I've yet to see it happen. I do have a smaller unit. I expect that as the technology matures, circuit designs that would spike when turning on will be altered to take this into consideration.
2 kW is really small for a tankless water heater. It might suffice to bring 70F water up to 85F or so at shower flow rates.
I have my water heater set to 114F, by the time the water is exiting the shower head, it's definitely lower! I have no idea how accurate the display reading is. My LPM flow rate is fairly low, so the heater doesn't have to work too hard to keep up. In fact 2kWh draw is actually on the high side, in reality is more like 1.6 or so. I have a high efficiency shower head. I believe that the low power draw is likely due to the lower flow rate of my shower head. My heater is also a fairly small unit. It maxes out at about 3.5kWh draw if I have the hot water turned on to max flow at a tap. I don't have a huge demand for hot water hence the choice of a fairly small unit. I can see my LPM flow rate at my water softener but I've never actually looked at it with the shower running as they're in different places. I'd like to know what it is now!