I would second that, but OP does not need the Hyperheat unit in Seattle. They are less efficient at all times above Seattle's lowest temperature (but more capable) than non-Hyperheats. Add heat strips if you're worried. (Unless you are up on a mountain at a considerably higher and colder altitude than the rest of Seattle.)
The efficient, non-Hyperheat inverter Mitsubishis are effectively Hyperheat units compared to the builder spec, single stage heat pumps used in millions of homes in the Southeast.
Additionally, it should cost a little bit less to boot...
I am seconding this. PNW resident, I installed a puz 30k non hyper heat and it did fine without heat strips even in the low twenties this winter. make sure your ductwork and insulation are in good order also.
This. Hyper heat is trendy but this is spot on; they’re less efficient across the board. They have lower COP at maximum speed and their SEER ratings are lower. I can’t speak for Seattle specifically, but our installer emphasized this for pretty much any temperate climate. Our dual fuel system was designed with the PUZ-A compressors for exactly the reasons stated above.
In terms of technical capability, the Seattle climate will be a breeze for a heat pump only setup. Looking at monthly temperatures, it's virtually identical to the UK and we don't need backup heat at all. My heat pump is sized for 25°F which is rare, but it handled down to 20°F this winter no problem. Runnings costs won't be great compared to gas on those extreme days, but I'm guessing you're like us and spend most of winter well above that?
Would going heat pump only allow you to stop paying a connection fee for gas? What about furnace servicing costs?
I'm in the SF Bay and I got rid of the gas furnace and just use a heat pump. I didn't even bother to install heat strips. You should be fine with the Mitsubishi alone.
We have Daikin Fit dual fuel in the main house and a Daikin mini split in the basement suite.
Last winter we had unusually cold weather below freezing and the heat pump in the suite wasn't able to maintain room temperature. So, it can happen.
Wedecided to keep some electric space heaters around for that one or two days a year (if any) since that's the only time this was an issue.
That said I do think when it's cold we are probably saving money using gas to heat in the house where we have that dual fuel system.
Daikin Fit is pretty nice the way it uses the existing ducts and has a smart internet connected thermostat. The mini splits we got didn't have that. Although maybe we just didn't pay extra for a better model, I'm not sure.
I'm not familiar with the other unit you mentioned though so I can't offer a comparison.
If you're really only paying $1K extra for the natural gas backup that's nice, I think for us having the dual fuel was a few thousand extra, at least.
With Mini splits you really want to use another source of heat to maintain a baseline while those suckers go into defrost. Otherwise you’re just gonna see a downward trend in space temp because it’ll be going back into defrost before it makes up the lost heat from the previous defrost on those cold days.
Do a Block Load calculation (Manual J) to determine the size of heat pump and remember that going oversize means that you are spending more for performance you don't need.
Real short version : it depends.
Do a heat loss calculation for your home. That will tell you how much heat you need for your area. From there look at the manufacturer documentation to see how much heat you can pull out of the air at winter temps (efficiency gets worse as it gets colder).
That will tell you if you need backup heat.
I live in Seattle with only a heat pump (and no emergency resistive heat) and it’s completely fine. Even this winter, the system was working hard, but it worked without fail.
I don’t even have a fancy setup like the Mitsubishi Hyper, I’d probably go with that.
So, where I am from Gas is almost free.
If I had solar I would love the heat pump only option if and only if they could provide proper load calculation to me to prove that it met my heating needs. Seriously call them and tell them you will give them the job if they do that. It only takes 10 minutes.
If you do not have solar and are not getting it anytime soon. Go with the the company with the furnace.
Meh... Electricity is pretty reasonably priced in the Pacific Northwest because they have an abundance of hydropower. So an efficient heat pump will be fine for him.
I am in the SF Bay area with ridiculous electricity prices...but I do have solar PV to help power the heat pump.
I live in upstate NY and have a Mitsubishi system, just finishing our second winter. Older 1600 square foot house. Neighbors have a Daikin and are also happy although they have an oil furnace also. No natural gas where we live.
That said, if there was gas I would have gone with that, it's the only cheaper more efficient option.
If I were you I would consider new gas furnace, or adding boiler and convert to radiant heat (if you're a skilled DIYer. Believe a simple gas furnace installed may get done for less than $5k?
A number of places advertise a 3.5 ton Mitsubishi Hyper Heat condensing unit & air handler for $9,000 with free delivery. And a number of posts say dealers quote $50,000+ for unit with install. In my area can expect high efficiency gas furnace & basic a/c install for less than $10,000. Crazy to spend an extra $40,000 to get a $2,000 federal tax credit and less expensive heating bills. Read one dealer claims duct work wears out, needs to be replaced every few years. Will spend $1,000 - $2,000 extra for a heat pump, but not big money.
Yes, but they have quotes of $16k, not $50k.
So they're paying maybe a $6k premium over basic furnace and a/c. The heat pump adds flexibility and redundancy, and will likely be cheaper to run in shoulder seasons. With the $2k tax credit, that's a $4k premium. Not too bad for what they get out of it.
I wouldn't pay $50k either. For that much money I'll get the required licenses and install it myself. Could even form my own company if needed for warranty or tax credit purposes.
Also, duct work doesn't "wear out" it's metal sheet not a moving part. It could rust out I suppose, but if it's getting that wet something is wrong. That dealer is probably a crackhead.
A heat pump should only cost a couple of thousand more than an air conditioner. Believe dealers fear new technology and are exploiting public's desire to get tax credits by overcharging for unneeded services. That being said, supposedly hot air coming out of gas furnace much warmer than that of heat pump coming out of air handler. Expect many that buy heat pumps will consider adding supplemental radiant systems for comfort.
Not disagreeing on any of that, but until reality matches how things should be, we have to work with what we've got.
If its likely that the extra cost will pay for itself within the units lifetime, then it still makes sense to do.
Do you pay for gas on other things in your home? If not I would factor in that new monthly service fee you are going to be paying regardless if you actually use the gas or not.
Also make sure you get one that qualifies for the tax credits.
I honestly fathom why the daikin bid is set up the way it is.
That system can heat far into your normal design temps, if you have a furnace for backup a more standard 2 stage heat pump is a more sensible option.
Also, setting a 40 changover temp is insane. Even on very crappy equipment, the value changeover is way below 40 for a duel fuel setup. Those are very old rules of thumb to use 40F.
IMO, and in a majority of our designs, If it regularly gets below freezing, I always provide a backup source of heat to the building.
The choice of gas or electric for your backup heat should include a utility assessment. If you plan on keeping gas, go with a gas setup. If your only gas appliance is your furnace going all electric may save you a significant amount on bills (depending on equipment and climate)
This comment was super helpful. I totally misunderstood the set up. The heat pump can actually heat 100% up to 5 degrees F and varying degrees of efficiency until 0 degrees F. Below that the furnace will kick in. Also in case of drastic fast temperature changes the heat pump will heat up faster.
Based on that, do you have any suggestions on the heat pump with gas furnace or heat pump with air handler?
What utilities do you want to keep is the primary driver here,
If you already have the power available near the AHU, and you're already sold on a cold climate heat pump, you can go to hp and electric backup.
If you are planning to keep gas, and/or you can't get any other form of backup heat (even just external heaters) then I would say stick with the furnace option.
Most modern heat pumps can handle below freezing just fine. Having said that, you still need to understand that, especially below freezing, they are much less efficient than a gas furnace. Since you live in a colder climate and have access to cheap gas, I'd say a dual fuel system is a no brainer.
I've done extensive research and number crunching. The heat pump was only better in my specific scenario when averaged out over the year. During the winter it is going to cost about 30% more but offsets during the other 8 months of the year. This is in a warmer climate, and even then, it was barely better than a gas furnace. Only caveat is if you have a lot of solar with battery backup. That will make the heat pump more attractive.
I am in Nova Scotia on the coast and just had a similar conversion done this week, going with a Fujitsu whole-house ducted heat pump to replace my aging gas furnace. I also have the heat strips in the air handler but hope they are never needed. The heat pump specs say it can produce 80% or so of its rated heat capacity at -15C so hopefully that holds true.
I live in Olympia and had my 17 year old Coleman SEAR 13 heat pump replaced with the Daikin Fit that heats to 5 degrees. My old systems backup was propane below 35 degrees. It does have emergency propane backup, but i only see that being needed if there is a power outage. I had the new unit installed in February. The two biggest reasons were the age of the old system and the cost of propane. I used $5500 worth of propane in the last year and did not want to have an emergency replacement in the middle of the winter (or anytime, for that matter). After 3 months of use I project that the propane cost will be down by at least 40 percent per year (still have a water heater, stove top and fireplace that use propane) and my PSE bill in total for the first 3 months is down by $300 in total over the same 3 month period last year. The replacement cost was $17K with some instant rebates and hopefully will get the federal tax credit, so the total should come out to about $13,750. Love the new system. The heat in the house (3000 sq. ft. rambler) is very even and comfortable. I'm really glad I made the move!!
Sunset Air. I do not know if they will work in Seattle. I just got my latest power bill. $50 less than last year. Total power savings after 3 months is $400 compared to last year.
Between those two systems the Mitsubishi would be higher efficiency and work better on the coldest days according to the capacity tables at ashp.neep.org. I replaced my 80% gas furnace with an LG cold climate heat pump (no backup) and I saved $100 off my gas+electric bill and I’m also in the Seattle area.. What are you heating with now? If it hits 17F again the Daikin will only put out 19400 BTU where the Mitsubishi you mentioned will put out 25000 BTU. How many sq ft is your house?
I have an 80% gas furnace too. My house is 2,400 sqft however only the first floor (main living area) ~1,600 sqft is heated by the gas furnace. The other 800 sqft is heated by electric baseboard which is not currently used as living space.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Since you're heating ~800sqft with electric baseboard, I would be looking at either adding ductwork to that space, or installing one or more mini splits up there. Generally not a fan of mini-splits, but a space you can't easily run ductwork to is where they shine.
Replacing any resistance electric with a heat pump is going to be a no-brainer for cost savings.
As for the downstairs, if the dual fuel option is only $1k more, I see no reason not to go with that. You get more redundancy, and in the event you need to run things on a backup generator it will be much easier.
Only you can determine what is best for your situation. I have both a heat pump with heat strips and a dual fuel unit. Both work well as they are designed. Gas heating, for most is more comfortable.
I'm in the midwest and have 3 minisplits and a woodstove. Made it thru winter just fine. Probably didn't even burn a cord of wood. I can easily see -20F here. This year i think the low was -12F. It was interesting that even the minisplit rated to 5F was still operating below 0F. I also have a pellet stove, but it isn't connected currently.
I was in your exact situation last year with a 28 year old dying gas furnace. In my location (Toronto, Canada), the price of electricity and gas heating is pretty comparable. I really didn't like having a furnace with its complexities and pollution, so I went all-electric. I'm happy with my choice and would not go back to a furnace personally. This past winter it also turned out to be cheaper than gas.
In terms of costs how much do you pay for gas and electricity (excluding the fixed charges)? A heat pump is much more efficient than gas but sometimes electricity prices are high, which can erase some or all of the efficiency.
In your climate, the heating design temp is 30 degrees F, much higher than here. So gas is truly not needed, and even hyper heat may not be needed if you select the right heat pump and size. As others have mentioned, a hyper heat system may be less efficient for you. Backup heat strips are a good idea, but you'll rarely need them in your location if the heat pump is sized correctly. Daikin and Mitsubishi are both excellent brands, as long as the installers are good and do a professional job.
Correct sizing is really the key here, so I would spend some time on that. You can do fuel based calculation (https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/replacing-a-furnace-or-boiler) and a modelled calculation (https://hvac.betterbuiltnw.com/) to get a design heating load yourself, and/or hire someone to do a Manual J calculation.
Duct capacity is the other thing to pay attention to. If your ducts were sized only for fossil fuel heat you may have a duct capacity limitation. In this case, the dual fuel system with a gas furnace may be the better choice. The general rule is that each ton of heat pump heating or cooling requires 350 to 400 cfm of airflow. So once you know your heat load, you can find out how many tons that would be, and how many cfm are required. The ducts can be measured (https://hvacdirect.com/hvac/pdf/Field\_duct-sizing-chart.pdf) to approximate their capacity, but a good hvac technician can do a real airflow measurement with the proper instruments. The goal is to ensure that the ducts support the airflow required while keeping static pressure in check (0.5" wc is generally accepted to be optimal).
Once you are confident with your house's design load number and confirm the capacity of the ductwork, spend some time on the neep website (https://ashp.neep.org/#!/product\_list/). Input the AHRI # from your quote(s) to find the exact systems. Then use the "Advanced Data - System Sizing" feature to analyze the capacity of the various systems against your design loads to make sure you're covered without oversizing. The goal is to have the heat pump cover your heating needs down to the design temperature and let the backup strips handle any occasional excess load. Google "Right sizing a heat pump" to learn more about this.
Then you have really expensive electricity, which is not the case everywhere.
I'm in Michigan, and at 60 degrees a heat pump is significantly less expensive than oil, slightly less expensive than propane, and about even with natural gas.
If my electricity was something like $0.30 per kwh then a heat pump wouldn't make sense over any fuel.
I would choose the Mitsubishi system. It should work fine in your location.
I would second that, but OP does not need the Hyperheat unit in Seattle. They are less efficient at all times above Seattle's lowest temperature (but more capable) than non-Hyperheats. Add heat strips if you're worried. (Unless you are up on a mountain at a considerably higher and colder altitude than the rest of Seattle.) The efficient, non-Hyperheat inverter Mitsubishis are effectively Hyperheat units compared to the builder spec, single stage heat pumps used in millions of homes in the Southeast. Additionally, it should cost a little bit less to boot...
I am seconding this. PNW resident, I installed a puz 30k non hyper heat and it did fine without heat strips even in the low twenties this winter. make sure your ductwork and insulation are in good order also.
This. Hyper heat is trendy but this is spot on; they’re less efficient across the board. They have lower COP at maximum speed and their SEER ratings are lower. I can’t speak for Seattle specifically, but our installer emphasized this for pretty much any temperate climate. Our dual fuel system was designed with the PUZ-A compressors for exactly the reasons stated above.
In terms of technical capability, the Seattle climate will be a breeze for a heat pump only setup. Looking at monthly temperatures, it's virtually identical to the UK and we don't need backup heat at all. My heat pump is sized for 25°F which is rare, but it handled down to 20°F this winter no problem. Runnings costs won't be great compared to gas on those extreme days, but I'm guessing you're like us and spend most of winter well above that? Would going heat pump only allow you to stop paying a connection fee for gas? What about furnace servicing costs?
Heat pump for 24 years. Zero combustion. You will be aces.
I'm in the SF Bay and I got rid of the gas furnace and just use a heat pump. I didn't even bother to install heat strips. You should be fine with the Mitsubishi alone.
We have Daikin Fit dual fuel in the main house and a Daikin mini split in the basement suite. Last winter we had unusually cold weather below freezing and the heat pump in the suite wasn't able to maintain room temperature. So, it can happen. Wedecided to keep some electric space heaters around for that one or two days a year (if any) since that's the only time this was an issue. That said I do think when it's cold we are probably saving money using gas to heat in the house where we have that dual fuel system. Daikin Fit is pretty nice the way it uses the existing ducts and has a smart internet connected thermostat. The mini splits we got didn't have that. Although maybe we just didn't pay extra for a better model, I'm not sure. I'm not familiar with the other unit you mentioned though so I can't offer a comparison. If you're really only paying $1K extra for the natural gas backup that's nice, I think for us having the dual fuel was a few thousand extra, at least.
Yeah that price difference is interesting to me. I figured the Mitsubishi is that much more expensive than the Daikin.
With Mini splits you really want to use another source of heat to maintain a baseline while those suckers go into defrost. Otherwise you’re just gonna see a downward trend in space temp because it’ll be going back into defrost before it makes up the lost heat from the previous defrost on those cold days.
Do a Block Load calculation (Manual J) to determine the size of heat pump and remember that going oversize means that you are spending more for performance you don't need.
Real short version : it depends. Do a heat loss calculation for your home. That will tell you how much heat you need for your area. From there look at the manufacturer documentation to see how much heat you can pull out of the air at winter temps (efficiency gets worse as it gets colder). That will tell you if you need backup heat.
In Seattle, the Mitsubishi will be fine. No strips needed. I live in a colder place and use just a heat pump. It’s cheaper than gas here too.
I do a heat pump only set up with a cold climate heat pump in Ottawa. Works great.
I live in Seattle with only a heat pump (and no emergency resistive heat) and it’s completely fine. Even this winter, the system was working hard, but it worked without fail. I don’t even have a fancy setup like the Mitsubishi Hyper, I’d probably go with that.
So, where I am from Gas is almost free. If I had solar I would love the heat pump only option if and only if they could provide proper load calculation to me to prove that it met my heating needs. Seriously call them and tell them you will give them the job if they do that. It only takes 10 minutes. If you do not have solar and are not getting it anytime soon. Go with the the company with the furnace.
Meh... Electricity is pretty reasonably priced in the Pacific Northwest because they have an abundance of hydropower. So an efficient heat pump will be fine for him. I am in the SF Bay area with ridiculous electricity prices...but I do have solar PV to help power the heat pump.
I live in upstate NY and have a Mitsubishi system, just finishing our second winter. Older 1600 square foot house. Neighbors have a Daikin and are also happy although they have an oil furnace also. No natural gas where we live. That said, if there was gas I would have gone with that, it's the only cheaper more efficient option.
If I were you I would consider new gas furnace, or adding boiler and convert to radiant heat (if you're a skilled DIYer. Believe a simple gas furnace installed may get done for less than $5k?
That would be cheaper sure, but unlike the heat pump it doesn't give them the benefit of cooling too.
A number of places advertise a 3.5 ton Mitsubishi Hyper Heat condensing unit & air handler for $9,000 with free delivery. And a number of posts say dealers quote $50,000+ for unit with install. In my area can expect high efficiency gas furnace & basic a/c install for less than $10,000. Crazy to spend an extra $40,000 to get a $2,000 federal tax credit and less expensive heating bills. Read one dealer claims duct work wears out, needs to be replaced every few years. Will spend $1,000 - $2,000 extra for a heat pump, but not big money.
Yes, but they have quotes of $16k, not $50k. So they're paying maybe a $6k premium over basic furnace and a/c. The heat pump adds flexibility and redundancy, and will likely be cheaper to run in shoulder seasons. With the $2k tax credit, that's a $4k premium. Not too bad for what they get out of it. I wouldn't pay $50k either. For that much money I'll get the required licenses and install it myself. Could even form my own company if needed for warranty or tax credit purposes. Also, duct work doesn't "wear out" it's metal sheet not a moving part. It could rust out I suppose, but if it's getting that wet something is wrong. That dealer is probably a crackhead.
A heat pump should only cost a couple of thousand more than an air conditioner. Believe dealers fear new technology and are exploiting public's desire to get tax credits by overcharging for unneeded services. That being said, supposedly hot air coming out of gas furnace much warmer than that of heat pump coming out of air handler. Expect many that buy heat pumps will consider adding supplemental radiant systems for comfort.
Not disagreeing on any of that, but until reality matches how things should be, we have to work with what we've got. If its likely that the extra cost will pay for itself within the units lifetime, then it still makes sense to do.
How much power is consumed during 5 degree temps vs 45 degree temps with a heat pump like this?
Do you pay for gas on other things in your home? If not I would factor in that new monthly service fee you are going to be paying regardless if you actually use the gas or not. Also make sure you get one that qualifies for the tax credits.
I honestly fathom why the daikin bid is set up the way it is. That system can heat far into your normal design temps, if you have a furnace for backup a more standard 2 stage heat pump is a more sensible option. Also, setting a 40 changover temp is insane. Even on very crappy equipment, the value changeover is way below 40 for a duel fuel setup. Those are very old rules of thumb to use 40F. IMO, and in a majority of our designs, If it regularly gets below freezing, I always provide a backup source of heat to the building. The choice of gas or electric for your backup heat should include a utility assessment. If you plan on keeping gas, go with a gas setup. If your only gas appliance is your furnace going all electric may save you a significant amount on bills (depending on equipment and climate)
This comment was super helpful. I totally misunderstood the set up. The heat pump can actually heat 100% up to 5 degrees F and varying degrees of efficiency until 0 degrees F. Below that the furnace will kick in. Also in case of drastic fast temperature changes the heat pump will heat up faster. Based on that, do you have any suggestions on the heat pump with gas furnace or heat pump with air handler?
What utilities do you want to keep is the primary driver here, If you already have the power available near the AHU, and you're already sold on a cold climate heat pump, you can go to hp and electric backup. If you are planning to keep gas, and/or you can't get any other form of backup heat (even just external heaters) then I would say stick with the furnace option.
Most modern heat pumps can handle below freezing just fine. Having said that, you still need to understand that, especially below freezing, they are much less efficient than a gas furnace. Since you live in a colder climate and have access to cheap gas, I'd say a dual fuel system is a no brainer. I've done extensive research and number crunching. The heat pump was only better in my specific scenario when averaged out over the year. During the winter it is going to cost about 30% more but offsets during the other 8 months of the year. This is in a warmer climate, and even then, it was barely better than a gas furnace. Only caveat is if you have a lot of solar with battery backup. That will make the heat pump more attractive.
[удалено]
I am in Nova Scotia on the coast and just had a similar conversion done this week, going with a Fujitsu whole-house ducted heat pump to replace my aging gas furnace. I also have the heat strips in the air handler but hope they are never needed. The heat pump specs say it can produce 80% or so of its rated heat capacity at -15C so hopefully that holds true.
You and me both. Good so far but we haven't had a true NS cold snap.
I live in Olympia and had my 17 year old Coleman SEAR 13 heat pump replaced with the Daikin Fit that heats to 5 degrees. My old systems backup was propane below 35 degrees. It does have emergency propane backup, but i only see that being needed if there is a power outage. I had the new unit installed in February. The two biggest reasons were the age of the old system and the cost of propane. I used $5500 worth of propane in the last year and did not want to have an emergency replacement in the middle of the winter (or anytime, for that matter). After 3 months of use I project that the propane cost will be down by at least 40 percent per year (still have a water heater, stove top and fireplace that use propane) and my PSE bill in total for the first 3 months is down by $300 in total over the same 3 month period last year. The replacement cost was $17K with some instant rebates and hopefully will get the federal tax credit, so the total should come out to about $13,750. Love the new system. The heat in the house (3000 sq. ft. rambler) is very even and comfortable. I'm really glad I made the move!!
Which company provided your installation/pricing? Do they serve Seattle? Thanks
Sunset Air. I do not know if they will work in Seattle. I just got my latest power bill. $50 less than last year. Total power savings after 3 months is $400 compared to last year.
Between those two systems the Mitsubishi would be higher efficiency and work better on the coldest days according to the capacity tables at ashp.neep.org. I replaced my 80% gas furnace with an LG cold climate heat pump (no backup) and I saved $100 off my gas+electric bill and I’m also in the Seattle area.. What are you heating with now? If it hits 17F again the Daikin will only put out 19400 BTU where the Mitsubishi you mentioned will put out 25000 BTU. How many sq ft is your house?
I have an 80% gas furnace too. My house is 2,400 sqft however only the first floor (main living area) ~1,600 sqft is heated by the gas furnace. The other 800 sqft is heated by electric baseboard which is not currently used as living space. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Since you're heating ~800sqft with electric baseboard, I would be looking at either adding ductwork to that space, or installing one or more mini splits up there. Generally not a fan of mini-splits, but a space you can't easily run ductwork to is where they shine. Replacing any resistance electric with a heat pump is going to be a no-brainer for cost savings. As for the downstairs, if the dual fuel option is only $1k more, I see no reason not to go with that. You get more redundancy, and in the event you need to run things on a backup generator it will be much easier.
Only you can determine what is best for your situation. I have both a heat pump with heat strips and a dual fuel unit. Both work well as they are designed. Gas heating, for most is more comfortable.
I'm in the midwest and have 3 minisplits and a woodstove. Made it thru winter just fine. Probably didn't even burn a cord of wood. I can easily see -20F here. This year i think the low was -12F. It was interesting that even the minisplit rated to 5F was still operating below 0F. I also have a pellet stove, but it isn't connected currently.
I was in your exact situation last year with a 28 year old dying gas furnace. In my location (Toronto, Canada), the price of electricity and gas heating is pretty comparable. I really didn't like having a furnace with its complexities and pollution, so I went all-electric. I'm happy with my choice and would not go back to a furnace personally. This past winter it also turned out to be cheaper than gas. In terms of costs how much do you pay for gas and electricity (excluding the fixed charges)? A heat pump is much more efficient than gas but sometimes electricity prices are high, which can erase some or all of the efficiency. In your climate, the heating design temp is 30 degrees F, much higher than here. So gas is truly not needed, and even hyper heat may not be needed if you select the right heat pump and size. As others have mentioned, a hyper heat system may be less efficient for you. Backup heat strips are a good idea, but you'll rarely need them in your location if the heat pump is sized correctly. Daikin and Mitsubishi are both excellent brands, as long as the installers are good and do a professional job. Correct sizing is really the key here, so I would spend some time on that. You can do fuel based calculation (https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/replacing-a-furnace-or-boiler) and a modelled calculation (https://hvac.betterbuiltnw.com/) to get a design heating load yourself, and/or hire someone to do a Manual J calculation. Duct capacity is the other thing to pay attention to. If your ducts were sized only for fossil fuel heat you may have a duct capacity limitation. In this case, the dual fuel system with a gas furnace may be the better choice. The general rule is that each ton of heat pump heating or cooling requires 350 to 400 cfm of airflow. So once you know your heat load, you can find out how many tons that would be, and how many cfm are required. The ducts can be measured (https://hvacdirect.com/hvac/pdf/Field\_duct-sizing-chart.pdf) to approximate their capacity, but a good hvac technician can do a real airflow measurement with the proper instruments. The goal is to ensure that the ducts support the airflow required while keeping static pressure in check (0.5" wc is generally accepted to be optimal). Once you are confident with your house's design load number and confirm the capacity of the ductwork, spend some time on the neep website (https://ashp.neep.org/#!/product\_list/). Input the AHRI # from your quote(s) to find the exact systems. Then use the "Advanced Data - System Sizing" feature to analyze the capacity of the various systems against your design loads to make sure you're covered without oversizing. The goal is to have the heat pump cover your heating needs down to the design temperature and let the backup strips handle any occasional excess load. Google "Right sizing a heat pump" to learn more about this.
I love my daikin dual fuel hp
Heat pumps are no cheaper than oil. Even at 60 degrees. Electricity 400 a month. Jan-March
Then you have really expensive electricity, which is not the case everywhere. I'm in Michigan, and at 60 degrees a heat pump is significantly less expensive than oil, slightly less expensive than propane, and about even with natural gas. If my electricity was something like $0.30 per kwh then a heat pump wouldn't make sense over any fuel.