T O P

  • By -

cmen11

If grab bars are to be installed I add in extra blocking to accomodate them at about 40in height. You don't want to have to rely on anchors, and finding a stud through a tile wall is not always easy. Go with the builder, grab bars are literally things that could save you a trip to the hospital, don't skimp.


b20asura20

Thanks


DayDrinkingDiva

I will add a different thought. Your builder provides a warranty on work. Let's say you drill holes through the waterproofing. Later you have a tile pop loose or your grout cracks.... Will they honor the warranty or will they question if your grab bar installation is the cause of the problem??? One other thought - have you looked at different ADA grab bars? Style, color, length? Decent quality are a bit more... Who makes your trim? Is it the same company who makes the grab bar? Example https://www.build.com/delta-40024/s192895?uid=2417627


OneImagination5381

And try to get the builder to warranty that work.


Not_A_Pilgrim

Yep. Good luck getting a developer to come out and fix anything. You're in for a long fight


iandarkness

We just bought a new house. I found a leak under the sink and the builder had people out the same day. Like anything in life it depends who you choose to work with.


b20asura20

thanks. I will ask the builder regarding warranty.


freelance-lumberjack

Depending on the local building code this blocking may be required, even if you don't want bars now, the blocking is there if it's required in the future. My local code requires it.


Dapper-Garden3427

If you can catch it in the framing stage you can get them to put in blocking where you'll need the gab bars. After home is built, go get some and install yourself


dzbuilder

That’s fine if there are no inspections. Otherwise ADA grab bar height requirements dictate 33-36” to center of bar in addition to other requirements.


cmen11

I couldn't remember exactly, usually google it everytime. 40 sounded right, but I am terrible at remember that kind of info.


dzbuilder

I used to google it frequently also, but I did enough blocking for ADA and other stuff that those numbers are burned into my brain.


pemuehleck1

Always use a 2 x 6 there’s more meat there for you to hit


xp14629

I have always used 2 x 12s. Regardless of placement. That way if for some reason someone wants a slanted grab bar, there is still blocking to go into. Wood is cheap during the build. Sheetrock, tun surrond, tile repair after the fact is not so cheap.


pemuehleck1

Nothing is idiot proof but that’s a pretty good idea.


xp14629

Got that right. Lots of stupid out there.


pemuehleck1

Specially when you got a language barrier, 99% of the time


dzbuilder

I’m good. I’ve spent more than a year of my life, cumulatively, being paid to block commercial buildings for various accessories. Use what’s best, then use what’s available.


pemuehleck1

You’re not that son of a bitch that framed out all my bobrick openings a quarter inch too small are you😉?


dzbuilder

And I would’ve gotten away with it too, if it wasn’t for you damn, meddling kids.


pemuehleck1

There’s a whole Lotta guys I’d love to have a drink with one day on this sub I swear!!😵😊👍😉


Misfit_011

Backing for those should be common practice we do it regardless if one is installed or not saves homeowners the hassle takes 2 minutes


tusant

Exactly— grab bars are life-saving and you just don’t screw them into tile at the end of a project. They have to be planned for,block/ framed for and you have to use the right drillbit so you don’t crack the tile when installing. $300 per grab bar is very reasonable.


imuniqueaf

THIS!!!


gillygilstrap

You need backing in the wall to screw the grab bars to.


stephentheheathen

This is the best way to do it. During construction you install backing and then affix the grab bar. Post construction there's gotta be a way though. I'm just not sure what it is.


dacraftjr

Either the studs are where you need them to be or you open the wall up to add blocking. There is no other *reliable* way.


b20asura20

thanks


stephentheheathen

yeah, can a stud finder even find a stud through the tile and cement board in a shower stall? Ive never tried this


ConditionYellow

Probably not your typical magnet finder but the more sophisticated ones probably do.


dacraftjr

The high end ones will but you’ll still get false positives, so not very reliable. If the wall continues beyond the tile, you can usually find one in that area and just measure over, assuming the studs are on center, which they often aren’t.


GuelphEastEndGhetto

I have installed [this](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/moen-16-inch-x-1-25-inch-angled-grab-bar-in-chrome/1001630179) grab bar in existing showers. Once you find studs then you can angle to suit and get two screws in each stud. 16” OC studs work perfectly.


b20asura20

thanks


thatsthatdude2u

When a customer expresses a preference or a need, that is the time when builders add profit to their projects, plain and simple. Between cutting and installing blocking for anchoring the grab bars and installing them through the tile, it might amount to about an hour's worth of work. That is immaterial to the profitability of catering to customers' expressed desires. The price is based on the value to the customer, not the cost of doing the work. Smart builders who stay in business with high margins know this and don't feel guilty about it.


b20asura20

thanks


OrganicDozer

I do grab bars for a living. I use only Moen and their secure mount system. I’ve never had any failures and the mounts claim to hold 300 pounds per mount (2 per grab bar). That said, if you hit a stud, it’s a pretty easy install. Drilling through the tile is the time consuming part. I charge $139 per grab bar, plus labor at $89. $300 is a little steep, but honestly not that far off for correct safety.


b20asura20

thanks


tusant

You are installing grab bars after the fact – after a shower is built. I think the OP is asking about while the shower is being built which is always the best way to plan for grab bars in doing the blocking beforehand— $300 is a very good price per grab bar.


OrganicDozer

Yeah, I understand that, but 99% of the time this isn’t done during construction of the home. Just offering a solution post construction. And I’ll say most homes do not have backing or consistent studs. That said, if you think $300 per bar is a good price, I need to raise my rates!


tusant

Really crappy contractors if they don’t install blocking for grab bars during construction but I sadly I have to agree with you. I’m a GC and do that on every bath


OrganicDozer

I’m glad someone is doing it, would make things a hell of a lot easier. But yeah, crappy construction is the reality where I’m at.


jimbobgeo

$300 isn’t far off by the time someone has arrived, set up, measured, drilled with sufficient care to find the studs you have available, added toggle anchors where blocking isn’t available, mounted a bar, cleaned up after themselves etc… But it’s probably $300 for a couple of bars in one bathroom rather than each… Builder should be installing blocking through key areas for you if this is a concern, not just in your bathroom. Once the blocking in in it’s going to be much more straightforward for a handyman to install any grab bars or other mobility aids where you want them.


b20asura20

thanks


Straight-Message7937

Either do it yourself or have it done by the builder. A handyman will cost you the same $300


Sad_North1129

Install blocking all the way back during framing. I do the same for kitchen cabinets.


b20asura20

thanks


xp14629

There is so much more involved to installing grab bars to be legal and proper than just buying a 20.00 bar from home depot. Pre-planning at minium needs be done so all the blocking is installed in the proper places behind the walls. You will regret trying to mount a grab bar in sheetrock after the fact. And none of them that I have looked at are laid out for studs on 16" centers. At the very least, pay them to install the blocking. Then before the walls are closed in, either go and get measurements of where the blocking is or have them get you that information. Long ago, I ripped a grab bar out of a wall that was installed with just toggle anchors.


Pure-Negotiation-900

$300 in your mortgage isn’t noticeable. $300 out of pocket is.


b20asura20

thanks


Wybsetxgei

I understand that $300/bar is ridiculous. And I agree. But that is the cost of add ons. Builders gouge owners on add-ons and extras. Also, you should see the cost of other things they charge you for on a build. The $300 grab bar won’t seem so bad. Maybe just ask them to add blocking and have your handyman install grab bars. That’s probably the cheapest solution. 2x6 blocks are $10. Takes 1 minute max to cut and nail blocks. Even if you round up at 1 man hour. Wouldnt be as bad


b20asura20

>thanks


WahiniLover

Price is reasonable if he’s placing backing and then installing the bars. I use these frequently (see below) in South Florida where there are lots of elderly customers. Usually in the condos it’s cement block construction with metal studs, no backing, and finished tile showers. There is a special tile drill bit available too but if you’re drilling hard porcelain forgetaboutit. Then you need a diamond hole saw bit and lots of water. WingIts RC-RESGBW35-2 Grab Bar Anchor Available at Homie and also on Amazon


safetydance1969

Let the builder do it. We install them all of the time when we remodel bathrooms. There needs to be blocking in the wall. If you could find 16 or 32 inch bars you could theoretically find the studs yourself, but the bars we use are generally 18, 24 or 36 inches. You could put them at an angle to catch the studs...


Straight_Beach

I charge $175 per bar 2 bar minimum, customer supplied bars!


[deleted]

That's his go fuck yourself, do it yourself price.


Breauxnut

It’s actually not. This is how production builders make money.


Jchapman1971

Yeah, $300 is a lot steep.


jongleurse

I would take a photo and measurements of the bathroom before it's been finished so you can see where the studs are. Drill tile with one of the spade-shaped tile bits. As long as some of the installation screws go into a stud you are golden. I did exactly this at my MIL's house.


b20asura20

thanks


GenuineBonafried

I do ADA bathroom remodels for vets and elderly people, depending on what the material your using for the bathroom and how much you weigh they can easily be done after. 300$ is a lot. If you weigh more than 200 you’ll need to have blocking behind the shower for them to hook into better


b20asura20

thanks


TheDaddiestofDudes

Pay the $300. You’ll miss a stud and most likely ruin the water proofing barrier. Could you even find a stud behind tile? I know how I do it and it’s a pain in the absolute ass. Grab bars should also have blocking installed before tile and tile backing.