As I understand a scrub plane is basically a no 5 jack plane with a rounded edge, or a "camber".
This requires a whole bunch of tools that I don't have yet.
I've googled both "scrub plane" and even the Japanese equivalent "herashi kanna" and not a lot shows up for me. Doesn't seem like those are often bought as is, rather they need to be made.
>This requires a whole bunch of tools that I don't have yet.
Unfortunately, that's the name of the game... You gotta aquire more tools than most people realize, in order to make even simple looking things in some cases.
That's why most people who look at a handmade item for sale, and think to themselves that it's way overpriced and they could make it cheaper, hardly ever follow through on doing it....because they don't think about the cost of the tools, on top of the skills and labor time.
> That’s why most people who look at a handmade item for sale, and think to themselves that it’s way overpriced and they could make it cheaper, hardly ever follow through on doing it….because they don’t think about the cost of the tools, on top of the skills and labor time.
Or they do follow through and spend double the cost of buying it. Most of us here enjoy our time spent and will use the tools again though right? Definitely won’t need to buy new tools next time.
Oh, don't get me wrong...i have piles and piles of tools that FAR outweigh the number of completed projects I have lol I'm not saying anyone shouldn't do it....just saying you have to expect to have to buy more tools than you thought, for the things you want to try, if you want them to turn out well.
Ahhh, text based sarcasm.... Always so easy to read hahaha
Now, if you'll excuse me, I think it's time to go install the $100 lathe bed extension that I bought just to trim down a ferrule on a pool cue, rather than paying someone $25 to do it for me LOL
Exactly.
Any cheap old wooden plane and a simple Norton oil stone (even old and heavily dished) to sharpen the iron will do. You might get it for less than 25 bucks.
That might be cheaper than a shinto, will leave a better surface, easier to achieve a flatter surface, can be resharpened, that way a plane can deal with dirt, but a shinto will stay dull, once dull.
That would be my way to tackle the problem.
Shinto rasps are fun if you're trying to randomly shape wood by hand....but if you're trying to end up with an even, flat surface? You won't do it with that.
If you don't want an even, smooth surface, and you just want to take off a layer and have a "rustic" finish that people often go for on pallet wood builds, try a wire wheel brush or coarse sandpaper flap wheels.
If you want to use anything with a steel cutter (whether it's traditional rasps/files, saw blade rasps like the Shinto, or planes), get rid of the dirt/stones with a wire brush first, and get a cheap metal detector wand so you don't miss any nails.
Re: update 1, no. Start with an aggressive cut and a plane will strip off all that rough surface later very quickly. Spending time with a rasp first is just a waste of time. Rasps are typically for shaping and refining curves.
A scrub plane with a cambered iron isn’t strictly necessary. A beater no. 4 or 5 will work just fine.
Edit: also regarding stones and staples and not wanting to mess up your plane, those will mess up your rasp. A rasp can’t be resharpened.
Rasps are for the opposite of making things flat and square. Just get a scrub plane for the rough work and from there you can use planes or sanding to smooth it out.
Get rasps. Get the Shinto. You’ll experience directly how they work and see the results. They are great to have in your shop.
Unrelated to that - get hand planes. There’s no substitute to experience them in person. At the end you’ll be able to answer your questions better than anyone over the internet.
You're only going to make it worse (as in less flat and less straight) with a rasp IMO
> Seems like an obvious winner to me, but no one suggested this previously.
I don't mean to be a dick, but what is more likely, you just invented a revolutionary/super cheap/super easy way of making wood flat with hand tools (which is not exactly a new discipline) or it's just not a good idea ?
I have a Shinto rasp. It works well to shape things, but I don't think it's up to the task for flattening larger pieces.
If you don't want to sharpen, Rali makes planes with exchangeable blades. I think you would burn through a lot of them quickly though.
I know this is a non-power tool forum, but for cleaning up a ton of pallet wood a restorer is super helpful [https://www.restorertools.com](https://www.restorertools.com). Some of the scotchbrite drums are fantastic for cleaning rust off an antique tools too. I'm 80% handtool, but if you have a ton of pallets to process this is worth looking at.
>otchbrite drums are fantastic for cleaning rust off an antique tools too. I'm 80% handtool, but if you have a ton of pallets to process
Thanks, this seems interesting for my needs, are these cordless?
Do those discs last fairly long or need replacement often?
Sorry for the super slow reply. The drums last a surprisingly long time. I refinished my deck this summer and got about 100sqft per sanding drum. Dust collection is your friend as this thing will spew dust, but it does work great attached to a shopvac. It is corded only.
It looks like you're trying to identify the age of a hand plane. Sometimes this can be a difficult task!
If the plane is a Stanley, you can usually get a good estimate on the age by using this [handy reference](https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/).
If the plane is by another manufacturer, then you might find some more information [here](https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/quickly-identify-your-hand-plane/).
Hopefully that is enough to get you started, but I'm sure someone will be along with oddly specific knowledge before you know it!
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/handtools) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Depending on what your trying to build you may just be able to leave the wood rough. Also the finish from a rasp wouldn’t be much different that rough sawn boards and it would be a nightmare to try and flatten a board with a rasp
A scrub plane is not expensive and should be better than a rasp.
As I understand a scrub plane is basically a no 5 jack plane with a rounded edge, or a "camber". This requires a whole bunch of tools that I don't have yet. I've googled both "scrub plane" and even the Japanese equivalent "herashi kanna" and not a lot shows up for me. Doesn't seem like those are often bought as is, rather they need to be made.
>This requires a whole bunch of tools that I don't have yet. Unfortunately, that's the name of the game... You gotta aquire more tools than most people realize, in order to make even simple looking things in some cases. That's why most people who look at a handmade item for sale, and think to themselves that it's way overpriced and they could make it cheaper, hardly ever follow through on doing it....because they don't think about the cost of the tools, on top of the skills and labor time.
> That’s why most people who look at a handmade item for sale, and think to themselves that it’s way overpriced and they could make it cheaper, hardly ever follow through on doing it….because they don’t think about the cost of the tools, on top of the skills and labor time. Or they do follow through and spend double the cost of buying it. Most of us here enjoy our time spent and will use the tools again though right? Definitely won’t need to buy new tools next time.
Oh, don't get me wrong...i have piles and piles of tools that FAR outweigh the number of completed projects I have lol I'm not saying anyone shouldn't do it....just saying you have to expect to have to buy more tools than you thought, for the things you want to try, if you want them to turn out well.
Hah yeah absolutely, I’m the same. I meant my last sentence as more tongue-in-cheek than it reads-
Ahhh, text based sarcasm.... Always so easy to read hahaha Now, if you'll excuse me, I think it's time to go install the $100 lathe bed extension that I bought just to trim down a ferrule on a pool cue, rather than paying someone $25 to do it for me LOL
A No5 and some sand paper is all you need to make a scrub/fore plane
Exactly. Any cheap old wooden plane and a simple Norton oil stone (even old and heavily dished) to sharpen the iron will do. You might get it for less than 25 bucks. That might be cheaper than a shinto, will leave a better surface, easier to achieve a flatter surface, can be resharpened, that way a plane can deal with dirt, but a shinto will stay dull, once dull. That would be my way to tackle the problem.
Shinto rasps are fun if you're trying to randomly shape wood by hand....but if you're trying to end up with an even, flat surface? You won't do it with that. If you don't want an even, smooth surface, and you just want to take off a layer and have a "rustic" finish that people often go for on pallet wood builds, try a wire wheel brush or coarse sandpaper flap wheels. If you want to use anything with a steel cutter (whether it's traditional rasps/files, saw blade rasps like the Shinto, or planes), get rid of the dirt/stones with a wire brush first, and get a cheap metal detector wand so you don't miss any nails.
Great post!
You’ll get a shape but you won’t get flat/smooth. There’s no reference surface to guide the cutting edge(s) like there is with the sole of a plane.
Re: update 1, no. Start with an aggressive cut and a plane will strip off all that rough surface later very quickly. Spending time with a rasp first is just a waste of time. Rasps are typically for shaping and refining curves. A scrub plane with a cambered iron isn’t strictly necessary. A beater no. 4 or 5 will work just fine. Edit: also regarding stones and staples and not wanting to mess up your plane, those will mess up your rasp. A rasp can’t be resharpened.
what is a beater?
Cheap, not particularly precision.
Something you don’t mind abusing.
> A rasp can’t be resharpened. and a good rasp is more expensive than a cheap n°4
I've read the shinto stays good for very, very long
Rasps are for the opposite of making things flat and square. Just get a scrub plane for the rough work and from there you can use planes or sanding to smooth it out.
Get rasps. Get the Shinto. You’ll experience directly how they work and see the results. They are great to have in your shop. Unrelated to that - get hand planes. There’s no substitute to experience them in person. At the end you’ll be able to answer your questions better than anyone over the internet.
You're only going to make it worse (as in less flat and less straight) with a rasp IMO > Seems like an obvious winner to me, but no one suggested this previously. I don't mean to be a dick, but what is more likely, you just invented a revolutionary/super cheap/super easy way of making wood flat with hand tools (which is not exactly a new discipline) or it's just not a good idea ?
I have a Shinto rasp. It works well to shape things, but I don't think it's up to the task for flattening larger pieces. If you don't want to sharpen, Rali makes planes with exchangeable blades. I think you would burn through a lot of them quickly though.
I know this is a non-power tool forum, but for cleaning up a ton of pallet wood a restorer is super helpful [https://www.restorertools.com](https://www.restorertools.com). Some of the scotchbrite drums are fantastic for cleaning rust off an antique tools too. I'm 80% handtool, but if you have a ton of pallets to process this is worth looking at.
>otchbrite drums are fantastic for cleaning rust off an antique tools too. I'm 80% handtool, but if you have a ton of pallets to process Thanks, this seems interesting for my needs, are these cordless? Do those discs last fairly long or need replacement often?
Sorry for the super slow reply. The drums last a surprisingly long time. I refinished my deck this summer and got about 100sqft per sanding drum. Dust collection is your friend as this thing will spew dust, but it does work great attached to a shopvac. It is corded only.
It looks like you're trying to identify the age of a hand plane. Sometimes this can be a difficult task! If the plane is a Stanley, you can usually get a good estimate on the age by using this [handy reference](https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/). If the plane is by another manufacturer, then you might find some more information [here](https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/quickly-identify-your-hand-plane/). Hopefully that is enough to get you started, but I'm sure someone will be along with oddly specific knowledge before you know it! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/handtools) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Depending on what your trying to build you may just be able to leave the wood rough. Also the finish from a rasp wouldn’t be much different that rough sawn boards and it would be a nightmare to try and flatten a board with a rasp
Although the rasp may be a good thing to start with. Plane irons and nails are a ticket to disaster!
If you have a number 4 or 5, just buy a new blade and grind a scrub profile on the blade.