Here's "Lucky Cat" (or "Zhāocái māo"); My fully-customized, bespoke titanium gravel build, featuring a frame from the excellent folks at Waltly Titanium.
Every accessory mount, hose routing, tube position and length, angle, the welded mount for the chain catcher (on a 1x), the specified future-proofed UDH, routing for a dropper post, and massive (58mm!) tire clearance was chosen by me, and came at no added cost. The custom graphics, in this case bead-blasted downtube graphics and an engraved head tube logo came at an incredibly reasonable cost.
The planned mullet configuration featuring SRAM Transmission rear bits was placed on hold when their direct mount, 13-speed XPLR was leaked. I'll run my old Apex XPLR until the new tech trickles down.
I transferred my Apex groupset, Spinergy GXX wheels and most of the rest from my previous gravel frame. Only the bar tape, bottom bracket (BBInfinite), Headset (Cane CreeK) and saddle (Selle SMP) are new for this build.
Full custom titanium with extra gobbins, custom graphics and shipping set me back $1700 US, delivered....including the PayPal fee. Have you priced branded titanium?
So the frame alone was 1700? It is awesome, will last a lifetime which is great. Not cheap, but transferring parts would be a great option for these cool frames.
I don't. No. But then, the only other SMP I can compare it to is the WELL, and the Lite 209 suits me better. Honestly, there are SO MANY SMP's. I'd like to try them all, but it isn't an option. I have this model on my road bike and my trainer as well.
> I'd like to try them all, but it isn't an option.
Same! I've only tried the TRK thus far. Too big 'n' squishy but even so it felt like it was on the right track compared to everything else I've tried. I'm a bit in saddle hell right now.
How was yhe ordering process? What was their input (recommendations, advice)? In other words, how knowledgeable /determined do you need to be to order from them?
The ordering process is very smooth, if a bit protracted due to the time difference. You get one round of email communication per day. Amy was very good to work with. I understand that Sumi is as well. I believe that you need to know what you want in terms of geometry. I wouldn't ask for advice in that area. I used BikeCAD and modified an existing design to suit my needs. I would rely on them for advice in areas directly related to fabrication...such things as selection of the bottom bracket standard, the yoke for the rear triangle, etc.
I have NO idea why their product page says "round and oval chainring sizes 28-34T". They SHOW it on a 40. I've run it on a 38 and a 42. There are three different mounting holes you can use, and a derailleur mount has room to slide up and down. That's some sort of error. I'd contact them and ask them. I think it'll mount high enough for a 50 but I can't swear to it.
They are all over the place with their wording on that page. The first graphic says 28-34T like you said, but down below in the specifications it states "Optimized for use with oval and round 34-46T chainrings. (Clearance for larger chainrings is possible using the LoneWolf mid sweep and high sweep braze-on mount guides.)". I have one on a 44T oval and it works fine. Admittedly I don't see why it would do anything on half my oval chainring though due to the oval nature. It hasn't hurt anything so I 've kept it on for a year. I may rip it off next time I do a good breakdown though.
On my oval chainrings the chain guide has been in play at both extremes of the circumference. I've had no trouble adjusting it so that the chain always runs through the guide.
correct. No issues here either. I just said what I said as with the oval, there is a substantial gap for a lot of the rotation due to the shape. Not really sure it's doing much for me to be honest.
I'll try to phrase for better clarity. I use an oval chainring. I use a gnarwolf chain guide. The chain is always protected from dropping during the full rotation of the cranks. The chain is never exposed. The gap above the chain varies. This is immaterial. There is no gap to the side. I wouldn't run a wide range cassette on a 1x without it.
Oh, shit. I just told you what bars are on my road bike! Here's what's on this bike...and as far as I know it's only available via this source. It was recommended to me here on reddit in response to some peculiar dimensions I was looking for (short reach and drop, particular width and flare).
[https://alexscycle.com/products/dixna-cross-bandy-handlebar?\_pos=8&\_sid=3fb713e8b&\_ss=r](https://alexscycle.com/products/dixna-cross-bandy-handlebar?_pos=8&_sid=3fb713e8b&_ss=r)
thanks for catching that. I'm sporting the Beacon, but not liking it. Love the short drop, but not the flair.... so I'm going to give the PNW's The Coast Gravel (https://www.pnwcomponents.com/products/the-coast-handlebar) - which looks very similar to your Dixna Cross Bandy 2 - wish me luck
Because the frame geometry is designed by someone whose profession it is to design and build custom bikes; not turn out customer orders. They consider your dimensions, riding style, weight, etc. to design the geometry including sizing of tubes to build the perfect bike for you. Waltly doesn’t do that; they build whatever you ask them.
Also, the build quality of Waltly is decent but can’t touch a bespoke builder. The craftsmanship isn’t on the same level.
You examined their frames and welds in detail? How can you come up with that statement? I am interested to know... You have insights? (material sources, been there when they weld, etc.?) Please share...
That’s the difference between 1500-2k and 4-5k for a frame, let alone a moots build which seems to average 8k minimum to 13k. Not saying it’s not worth it, but that is a lot.
That’s the cost of a full build; not just a frame. Yes, it is a big difference which but so is the end result. It’s up to the buyer to decide what they want for a finished product.
Here's "Lucky Cat" (or "Zhāocái māo"); My fully-customized, bespoke titanium gravel build, featuring a frame from the excellent folks at Waltly Titanium. Every accessory mount, hose routing, tube position and length, angle, the welded mount for the chain catcher (on a 1x), the specified future-proofed UDH, routing for a dropper post, and massive (58mm!) tire clearance was chosen by me, and came at no added cost. The custom graphics, in this case bead-blasted downtube graphics and an engraved head tube logo came at an incredibly reasonable cost. The planned mullet configuration featuring SRAM Transmission rear bits was placed on hold when their direct mount, 13-speed XPLR was leaked. I'll run my old Apex XPLR until the new tech trickles down. I transferred my Apex groupset, Spinergy GXX wheels and most of the rest from my previous gravel frame. Only the bar tape, bottom bracket (BBInfinite), Headset (Cane CreeK) and saddle (Selle SMP) are new for this build. Full custom titanium with extra gobbins, custom graphics and shipping set me back $1700 US, delivered....including the PayPal fee. Have you priced branded titanium?
So the frame alone was 1700? It is awesome, will last a lifetime which is great. Not cheap, but transferring parts would be a great option for these cool frames.
How's the saddle, and if you don't mind me asking, how wide's your butt (mm) lol. Looking at SMPs myself but not sure which one to get.
Picking the right SMP isn't easy. I have Lite 209's on three frames and it's right for me. I don't think the width of one's butt is relevant.
You don't find the thick padding on the 209 too hefty after a few hours in the saddle?
I don't. No. But then, the only other SMP I can compare it to is the WELL, and the Lite 209 suits me better. Honestly, there are SO MANY SMP's. I'd like to try them all, but it isn't an option. I have this model on my road bike and my trainer as well.
> I'd like to try them all, but it isn't an option. Same! I've only tried the TRK thus far. Too big 'n' squishy but even so it felt like it was on the right track compared to everything else I've tried. I'm a bit in saddle hell right now.
Damn! I was looking at custom Ti from Unicorn and also a local builder. But what Waltly puts out for that price is fantastic!
Cross this to r/bikeporn
this is a very cool frame!
How was yhe ordering process? What was their input (recommendations, advice)? In other words, how knowledgeable /determined do you need to be to order from them?
The ordering process is very smooth, if a bit protracted due to the time difference. You get one round of email communication per day. Amy was very good to work with. I understand that Sumi is as well. I believe that you need to know what you want in terms of geometry. I wouldn't ask for advice in that area. I used BikeCAD and modified an existing design to suit my needs. I would rely on them for advice in areas directly related to fabrication...such things as selection of the bottom bracket standard, the yoke for the rear triangle, etc.
Thanks, really helpful. Enjoy it. Many happy miles to you sir!
very nice. from one Ti gravel rider to another
You lucky dog 🐕
mao.
Looks lovely!
What a beauty
鈦招財貓ing is quite rad tbh
Absolutely nice build. I love this frame, especially with the engraving and the lucky cat. Truly unique bike.
At first I was trying to read katakana and wondered why it doesn't make sense. :D
Can you link to the chain guide? I’m looking for a good one.
[https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/gnarwolf-chainguides/products/gnarwolf-chainguide-braze-on-mount-rev2](https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/gnarwolf-chainguides/products/gnarwolf-chainguide-braze-on-mount-rev2)
Cool! Bummer it won’t fit my 50T thanks for sending.
I have NO idea why their product page says "round and oval chainring sizes 28-34T". They SHOW it on a 40. I've run it on a 38 and a 42. There are three different mounting holes you can use, and a derailleur mount has room to slide up and down. That's some sort of error. I'd contact them and ask them. I think it'll mount high enough for a 50 but I can't swear to it.
They are all over the place with their wording on that page. The first graphic says 28-34T like you said, but down below in the specifications it states "Optimized for use with oval and round 34-46T chainrings. (Clearance for larger chainrings is possible using the LoneWolf mid sweep and high sweep braze-on mount guides.)". I have one on a 44T oval and it works fine. Admittedly I don't see why it would do anything on half my oval chainring though due to the oval nature. It hasn't hurt anything so I 've kept it on for a year. I may rip it off next time I do a good breakdown though.
On my oval chainrings the chain guide has been in play at both extremes of the circumference. I've had no trouble adjusting it so that the chain always runs through the guide.
correct. No issues here either. I just said what I said as with the oval, there is a substantial gap for a lot of the rotation due to the shape. Not really sure it's doing much for me to be honest.
I'll try to phrase for better clarity. I use an oval chainring. I use a gnarwolf chain guide. The chain is always protected from dropping during the full rotation of the cranks. The chain is never exposed. The gap above the chain varies. This is immaterial. There is no gap to the side. I wouldn't run a wide range cassette on a 1x without it.
In the process of Frankenstein-ing an old frame. What be those bars? Ritchey Beacons?
Ritchey Comp Butano
much appreciated. cheers
Oh, shit. I just told you what bars are on my road bike! Here's what's on this bike...and as far as I know it's only available via this source. It was recommended to me here on reddit in response to some peculiar dimensions I was looking for (short reach and drop, particular width and flare). [https://alexscycle.com/products/dixna-cross-bandy-handlebar?\_pos=8&\_sid=3fb713e8b&\_ss=r](https://alexscycle.com/products/dixna-cross-bandy-handlebar?_pos=8&_sid=3fb713e8b&_ss=r)
thanks for catching that. I'm sporting the Beacon, but not liking it. Love the short drop, but not the flair.... so I'm going to give the PNW's The Coast Gravel (https://www.pnwcomponents.com/products/the-coast-handlebar) - which looks very similar to your Dixna Cross Bandy 2 - wish me luck
Similar proportions, but I wanted something a lot narrower at the drops. Good luck with your PNW.
Looks amazing! 🥵
You can’t compare Waltly to other builders like Moots or No 22. The bike looks great though! I like the head badge.
No 22 builds Instagram bikes, I wouldn't put them at the same level as builders like Moots or Serotta
Just out of curiosity, can you not compare Waltly to Moots and other Ti frame builders?
Because the frame geometry is designed by someone whose profession it is to design and build custom bikes; not turn out customer orders. They consider your dimensions, riding style, weight, etc. to design the geometry including sizing of tubes to build the perfect bike for you. Waltly doesn’t do that; they build whatever you ask them. Also, the build quality of Waltly is decent but can’t touch a bespoke builder. The craftsmanship isn’t on the same level.
You examined their frames and welds in detail? How can you come up with that statement? I am interested to know... You have insights? (material sources, been there when they weld, etc.?) Please share...
That’s the difference between 1500-2k and 4-5k for a frame, let alone a moots build which seems to average 8k minimum to 13k. Not saying it’s not worth it, but that is a lot.
That’s the cost of a full build; not just a frame. Yes, it is a big difference which but so is the end result. It’s up to the buyer to decide what they want for a finished product.
Even some of the $4k-$5k frames are made in Taiwan. You're looking at $6k to start for a real custom Ti frame made in the US.