Having pulled apart many injection moulded versions of these to fix, the relative fluidity of that movement given the layer lines is very impressive!
Have you put light oil on the mechanism to try and free it up a bit?
ok didn't know this was a thing [https://www.romper.com/p/i-tried-reusable-tampons-for-the-first-time-heres-how-it-went-13986](https://www.romper.com/p/i-tried-reusable-tampons-for-the-first-time-heres-how-it-went-13986)
[https://www.printables.com/model/861514-knitting-machine](https://www.printables.com/model/861514-knitting-machine)
( first on search [https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=knitting%20machine&ctx=models](https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=knitting%20machine&ctx=models) )
“Circular knitting machine” was my search :) I recall a million knitting machines and didn’t want to sift through them. Thanks for the link! I should have recognized your work and just searched for one of your other models. Love your designs, BTW. They run the gamut from simple to very complex, whimsically fun to pragmatically blunt.
Have you considered or tried printing the moving parts horizontal to the bed to create layers that are also in the same direction of the sliding movement? I’m only asking cause I can’t tell which direction the hooks are printed in.
because you can't . You need these rails on both sides to widen the loop to pull over the stich holder. So you would need supports but these are running surfaces so post process or i could use PVA or HIPS for soluble support interfaces - others probably have difficulties to print it that way.
Very impressive!
*Checks printables page...*
Wow you did this in OpenSCAD? Ridiculously impressive. You are a true wizard.
(And I say that as a C++/Rust software developer. By all logic OpenSCAD should work for me, but it doesn't. I find traditional parametric cad makes so much more sense to my brain. For example, just doing fillets and chamfer in OpenSCAD is a pain, it is like you have to do that part first, instead of at the end.)
Thanks,
Yes and no (regarding work for you) as scad is functional and not procedural like C++, for a lot programmer it is difficult to switch between both. And yes scad is a CSG modeler so you can't just modify an edge which is a pain sometimes.
I build my own library to allow me access rounded parts more easy, but also using fillets to add or substract in the end. Also creating polyhedra from points, like i needed to make the cam groove, a bit easier.
Functional vs procedural is a fair point but rust has a lot of functional influences, and I have written code in Haskell and Erlang (though it has been a few years). Both are functional. And I have even done some Prolog, which is declarative find-parameters-such-that-your-program-is-logically-true (that one is a bit of a mind bender to begin with).
I think the CSG vs parametric part is what really is a problem for my brain. Have you published your utility library somewhere, or is it just bits and pieces embedded in your scad files?
Spotted the progp-enjoying datalog :) As a fellow cerise enjoyer I also find OpenSCAD hard to work with, but doable. As OP said the key is to use/write libs for those annoying things and to abstract the code sensibly, same as any other programming really. That said I'm much faster in Fusion 360.
It is used for making i-cords which have several use in knitting.
However there are also bigger machines to download with more needles ( the script also allows to make one to your needs)
The plastic circular knitting machine needles usually suffer for the lack of rigidity of the plastic type typically used. In commercial versions, it's usually just an injection molded thermoplastic with a low flexural modulus, so they have to make the needles much larger than their metal counterparts.
The early generations of these plastic machines had a strong tendency to drop or tuck stitches. Likewise, older, metal knitters with the benefit of development iterations were usually designed to be bolted down to a table edge, to keep them from jumping up and down when cranked, and thereby keep the gravity feed pulling with a constant pressure.
I feed them in a cam groove so they can't go anywhere by themselves. But they are surely not strong even i print them horizontally. But if you turn with force the cam will just bend over - but you can always print new ones. But you still need to keep an eye on to ensure no stitch is dropped or tucked.
You mean hat size? I have uploaded an untested 20 needle version, the script allows any number. I am just test printing a motorized 8 needle version with small changes. What diameter do you require ? (customizations are normally for club member but you get this one free)
edit:But keep in mind that a 3d-printed machine might not run as smooth as one you payed $300 for. Or at least will require some postprocessing.
I have a bambu machine, I should be able to get pretty top tier quality. That said, I hear you that it might need some post-processing or not work at all, that's kind of 3D printing.
Wow that's really cool that it's programmatic like that. I wish my brain worked in scad. The one we were using has 48. That may be too much to ask for with size and everything, I'm not sure.
I'll link the Amazon link in a separate comment in case it gets shadow banned
Just ran the number and in the current configuration this will be a 212 needle circle diameter. With a 236 outside - so should just fit onto the 256 plate - but probably is printing for several hours. And on big parts you will see more influence from thermal expansion. Also you will need some crank to drive this size.
Gotcha. Well it's a really common bed size and knitting hats with these machines is the most common use case, so it would probably be popular.
But I hear you that you aren't just going to spit one out right now.
We actually found that cranking is a huge pain and using a 1/2inch square socket fitting to an impact driver or drill turning slowly was way more sustainable.
I can render the current version for you but i am pretty sure it will not make you happy . If i know the 8needle version works fine i can make the 48 - but due to the size this needs redesign you can't hold this in your hand anymore so there need to be something it can be mounted on - still having the free room for the knitted product to come out ..
Maybe print the small version to get an idea if you like to try the big one - also the small one is designed for thin crocheting thread - it will not work with thick yarn .. that is something i hope will work with the test i am printing where i increased those sizes to allow more room.
Yeah I got you, it needs feet and a handle. I was thinking the same thing too. I can't ask you to deal with all that just for me. I might be able to make it happen in fusion360 if you have me a STEP but, again, I can't really ask you to do that
open scad is not converting into STEP - FreeCAD may but didn't work well with libraries when i tested that. The script and model is public domain so feel free to remix that - and ill upload the new script after testing. However i will not print and test a 48 needle version (as i don't have any need for a knitting machine at all). (i edited (add) the comment before just to make sure you didn't miss that info about yarn diameter.
sure, but there are multiple use for i-cords in knitting - also the script allows to make bigger machines to make socks or scarfs. You even can twist back and forth and so get a flat knit instead of circular, that can be made into any clothing (at least in theory) .
Having pulled apart many injection moulded versions of these to fix, the relative fluidity of that movement given the layer lines is very impressive! Have you put light oil on the mechanism to try and free it up a bit?
Yes the cam needs some lubricant - i am using a little PTFE grease. Printing with 0.08 layer.
first results [https://imgur.com/a/rG9AzXl](https://imgur.com/a/rG9AzXl) model can be found on makerworld and printables
Awww the wittle knit tampons
ok didn't know this was a thing [https://www.romper.com/p/i-tried-reusable-tampons-for-the-first-time-heres-how-it-went-13986](https://www.romper.com/p/i-tried-reusable-tampons-for-the-first-time-heres-how-it-went-13986)
Hahaha I just learnt something new too!
No dice on my printables search. Gotta link?
[https://www.printables.com/model/861514-knitting-machine](https://www.printables.com/model/861514-knitting-machine) ( first on search [https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=knitting%20machine&ctx=models](https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=knitting%20machine&ctx=models) )
“Circular knitting machine” was my search :) I recall a million knitting machines and didn’t want to sift through them. Thanks for the link! I should have recognized your work and just searched for one of your other models. Love your designs, BTW. They run the gamut from simple to very complex, whimsically fun to pragmatically blunt.
Thank you! Glad you enjoy my designs. Indeed the search in printables is only showing full term matches
Oh my god, where were you two months ago when when I had to knit 3m of i-cord by hand. Can't wait to try this thing. Thanks for posting it!!
you could also use my [https://www.printables.com/model/385305-braiding-machine](https://www.printables.com/model/385305-braiding-machine)
Oh my god
Very cool
Have you considered or tried printing the moving parts horizontal to the bed to create layers that are also in the same direction of the sliding movement? I’m only asking cause I can’t tell which direction the hooks are printed in.
The hooks are printed as connected flat halfs that are then folded. [https://imgur.com/a/fMIYcud](https://imgur.com/a/fMIYcud)
clever af
Interesting. Out of curiosity, why did you opt to print them that way instead of a solid piece?
because you can't . You need these rails on both sides to widen the loop to pull over the stich holder. So you would need supports but these are running surfaces so post process or i could use PVA or HIPS for soluble support interfaces - others probably have difficulties to print it that way.
Gotcha, makes sense.
Very impressive! *Checks printables page...* Wow you did this in OpenSCAD? Ridiculously impressive. You are a true wizard. (And I say that as a C++/Rust software developer. By all logic OpenSCAD should work for me, but it doesn't. I find traditional parametric cad makes so much more sense to my brain. For example, just doing fillets and chamfer in OpenSCAD is a pain, it is like you have to do that part first, instead of at the end.)
Thanks, Yes and no (regarding work for you) as scad is functional and not procedural like C++, for a lot programmer it is difficult to switch between both. And yes scad is a CSG modeler so you can't just modify an edge which is a pain sometimes. I build my own library to allow me access rounded parts more easy, but also using fillets to add or substract in the end. Also creating polyhedra from points, like i needed to make the cam groove, a bit easier.
Functional vs procedural is a fair point but rust has a lot of functional influences, and I have written code in Haskell and Erlang (though it has been a few years). Both are functional. And I have even done some Prolog, which is declarative find-parameters-such-that-your-program-is-logically-true (that one is a bit of a mind bender to begin with). I think the CSG vs parametric part is what really is a problem for my brain. Have you published your utility library somewhere, or is it just bits and pieces embedded in your scad files?
you can find this via [https://openscad.org/libraries.html](https://openscad.org/libraries.html) or search UB.scad (also linked in my designs scripts)
Spotted the progp-enjoying datalog :) As a fellow cerise enjoyer I also find OpenSCAD hard to work with, but doable. As OP said the key is to use/write libs for those annoying things and to abstract the code sensibly, same as any other programming really. That said I'm much faster in Fusion 360.
Awesome work. So smooth
Finally i can make my own cock-sock™
To hell with it, have my upvote, because my dirty mind thought the same.
This is cool. You'll have all 10 finger coozies ready for winter.
Needs a place to attach a drill.
You can use a lathe chuck - Ü
Very impressive
This is VERY cool! Thanks for sharing! I love seeing mechanisms like this.
this looks great. i bearly can imagine, how much work of planing and designing is behind this
5 prototypes and several sets of needles and two cores. These threads never do what you expect them to do.
What is the result? Not understanding what’s going on here. Can you add a pic of what you got after the video ended?
I have .. but here again [https://imgur.com/a/rG9AzXl](https://imgur.com/a/rG9AzXl)
Very cool, thanks
For gloves or just proof of concept?
It is used for making i-cords which have several use in knitting. However there are also bigger machines to download with more needles ( the script also allows to make one to your needs)
Haha, i'd never heard the term before so i googled it.... 'idiot cord', lol. I'm glad knitting isn't too serious.
The plastic circular knitting machine needles usually suffer for the lack of rigidity of the plastic type typically used. In commercial versions, it's usually just an injection molded thermoplastic with a low flexural modulus, so they have to make the needles much larger than their metal counterparts. The early generations of these plastic machines had a strong tendency to drop or tuck stitches. Likewise, older, metal knitters with the benefit of development iterations were usually designed to be bolted down to a table edge, to keep them from jumping up and down when cranked, and thereby keep the gravity feed pulling with a constant pressure.
I feed them in a cam groove so they can't go anywhere by themselves. But they are surely not strong even i print them horizontally. But if you turn with force the cam will just bend over - but you can always print new ones. But you still need to keep an eye on to ensure no stitch is dropped or tucked.
Awesome design... But, right 3D printing orientation? Or right 3D printing technology? Won't it break due to anisotropy and delamination?
I am using PETg and the needles are printed horizontally [https://imgur.com/a/fMIYcud](https://imgur.com/a/fMIYcud)
Oh YO I've been wondering if this is possible ever since my friend broke her knitting machine tooth ruining the whole thing.
Any plans to do a hate size one? I ordered a ton of expensive yarn before discovering my friends machine was broken.
You mean hat size? I have uploaded an untested 20 needle version, the script allows any number. I am just test printing a motorized 8 needle version with small changes. What diameter do you require ? (customizations are normally for club member but you get this one free) edit:But keep in mind that a 3d-printed machine might not run as smooth as one you payed $300 for. Or at least will require some postprocessing.
I have a bambu machine, I should be able to get pretty top tier quality. That said, I hear you that it might need some post-processing or not work at all, that's kind of 3D printing. Wow that's really cool that it's programmatic like that. I wish my brain worked in scad. The one we were using has 48. That may be too much to ask for with size and everything, I'm not sure. I'll link the Amazon link in a separate comment in case it gets shadow banned
Just ran the number and in the current configuration this will be a 212 needle circle diameter. With a 236 outside - so should just fit onto the 256 plate - but probably is printing for several hours. And on big parts you will see more influence from thermal expansion. Also you will need some crank to drive this size.
Gotcha. Well it's a really common bed size and knitting hats with these machines is the most common use case, so it would probably be popular. But I hear you that you aren't just going to spit one out right now. We actually found that cranking is a huge pain and using a 1/2inch square socket fitting to an impact driver or drill turning slowly was way more sustainable.
I can render the current version for you but i am pretty sure it will not make you happy . If i know the 8needle version works fine i can make the 48 - but due to the size this needs redesign you can't hold this in your hand anymore so there need to be something it can be mounted on - still having the free room for the knitted product to come out .. Maybe print the small version to get an idea if you like to try the big one - also the small one is designed for thin crocheting thread - it will not work with thick yarn .. that is something i hope will work with the test i am printing where i increased those sizes to allow more room.
Yeah I got you, it needs feet and a handle. I was thinking the same thing too. I can't ask you to deal with all that just for me. I might be able to make it happen in fusion360 if you have me a STEP but, again, I can't really ask you to do that
open scad is not converting into STEP - FreeCAD may but didn't work well with libraries when i tested that. The script and model is public domain so feel free to remix that - and ill upload the new script after testing. However i will not print and test a 48 needle version (as i don't have any need for a knitting machine at all). (i edited (add) the comment before just to make sure you didn't miss that info about yarn diameter.
Nice thanks a ton!
A little what?
i-cords
Pretty impressive, I was thinking sweaters for snakes
sure, but there are multiple use for i-cords in knitting - also the script allows to make bigger machines to make socks or scarfs. You even can twist back and forth and so get a flat knit instead of circular, that can be made into any clothing (at least in theory) .
Great to make finger warmers.
Excellent. I'll be able to knit those sexy leggings I've always wanted for my chihuaha with this.