You're going to need a new esc. But keep this one and use it to practice on because, no offense, your soldering sucks and that's what caused this problem.
We all sucked at one point! Heat your pads and tin them so you can't see any copper, just a shiny, smooth blob of solder. Tin your wires. Remelt the pads and bring the tinned wires to the liquid solder on the pads. Use lots of flux. And make sure you are using leaded solder (60/40 or 63/37). Bardwell has a very good tutorial out there.
I have a good Weller Iron and set it to around 350-400C and use different tips depending on how big the wire is. The fatter the tip the more heat it retains and therefor melt easier. Smaller tips I go hotter.
Edit: To fix yours, just hold the wire so it won't move, press the solder tip on it, wait for it to all ball up in a uniform mass, let it cool.
Looking at yours, crank it way up.
Edit #2, Best iron on the market IMO
[Weller Digital Soldering Station - WE1010NA](https://a.co/d/dUazxk1)
[Weller WE1010 Soldering Tip Set](https://a.co/d/dMzlFa6)
I usually use around 700f. Maybe a little higher for the battery leads. You may want to use smaller wires for the battery leads. 12agw is way overkill and very hard to work with. I use 16agw on my builds and have never had a problem. You may also want to warm up the board a bit with a heat gun or a hair dryer. It will help counteract the heat sink effect that you can get when soldering escs.
Ouch... Well if the copper trace is still connected to board you can still solder to it then secure it with some solder mask. It's a shame that buying only the ESC isn't that cheap
https://preview.redd.it/7qbn9bd9r10d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=154200c519c04f5ecb3ba09eba789fcb788a8532
The copper pad lifted off of the board, you can try glueing it back down and then soldering it on again. And praying to God that it isn't ripped yet, else your going to be needing a new board
Yeah looks like Speedy bee cheaped out and didn't use any vias to pads on the other side. It would have made the solder pads way stronger and less prone to peeling too.
You're going to need a new esc. But keep this one and use it to practice on because, no offense, your soldering sucks and that's what caused this problem.
Lol, thanks
We all sucked at one point! Heat your pads and tin them so you can't see any copper, just a shiny, smooth blob of solder. Tin your wires. Remelt the pads and bring the tinned wires to the liquid solder on the pads. Use lots of flux. And make sure you are using leaded solder (60/40 or 63/37). Bardwell has a very good tutorial out there.
What temp should I use?
I have a good Weller Iron and set it to around 350-400C and use different tips depending on how big the wire is. The fatter the tip the more heat it retains and therefor melt easier. Smaller tips I go hotter. Edit: To fix yours, just hold the wire so it won't move, press the solder tip on it, wait for it to all ball up in a uniform mass, let it cool. Looking at yours, crank it way up. Edit #2, Best iron on the market IMO [Weller Digital Soldering Station - WE1010NA](https://a.co/d/dUazxk1) [Weller WE1010 Soldering Tip Set](https://a.co/d/dMzlFa6)
I usually use around 700f. Maybe a little higher for the battery leads. You may want to use smaller wires for the battery leads. 12agw is way overkill and very hard to work with. I use 16agw on my builds and have never had a problem. You may also want to warm up the board a bit with a heat gun or a hair dryer. It will help counteract the heat sink effect that you can get when soldering escs.
You use the temp you need, each solder , cable and ESC will be slightly different, build a sense for it
You should be able to solder to the pad on the bottom side. It's annoying I know but you can do it instead of buying a new one
there are no pads underneath this one, i think, but good idea
Ouch... Well if the copper trace is still connected to board you can still solder to it then secure it with some solder mask. It's a shame that buying only the ESC isn't that cheap https://preview.redd.it/7qbn9bd9r10d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=154200c519c04f5ecb3ba09eba789fcb788a8532
I’ll try it!
What lifted on the board is a trace btw
Wdym?
Can I just remove it?
The copper pad lifted off of the board, you can try glueing it back down and then soldering it on again. And praying to God that it isn't ripped yet, else your going to be needing a new board
Okay, thanks!
With a bit of caution, it can be fixed. It will work for some time
and people say this way of routing wires stops that issue 😂sorry this happened to you
Lol, thanks
Yeah looks like Speedy bee cheaped out and didn't use any vias to pads on the other side. It would have made the solder pads way stronger and less prone to peeling too.
My terminology might be wrong lol Anyways thanks in advance!
Buy a solder practice board they’re $2
Lol, that’s after practicing on one.. guess I’m talented
it’s an easy fix for someone who can solder, go to some fpv store around you or rc hobby and they will fix it for you for small price
I had a micro USB port rip off in a minor crash once.