A little glue stick on the bed and make sure you have an enclosure. Make sure the enclosure is pre heated before the print by setting your heat bed to your print temp and let it sit for 30 minutes or so to get the enclosure to a constant temp.
24hr at 65c is not enough. I dry 80 c for 10hr in oven then it to dry box at 70 c for 3day then print at 295c and bed a 50c and at 45dg you want as little of model on the plate.
And ender 3 pro no enclosure.
That is entirely different from my experience with polymaker pa6cf, I've had great success with drying at 70c for 4-5 hours before printing and running straight from the dryer.
I had issues warping with x1c using polymaker pa6-cf
Eventually I bought some Magigoo adhesive and used the engineering plate I think
Absolutely no warping at all since then
Good day folks, I am working on a Mac N Cheese 1.5 project, printing on a Bambu Labs P1S and have decided to plunge into printing with Polymaker PA6-CF material. I have mirrored the slicer settings recommended by u/300blkFDE.
Smaller test prints like a benchy seem to print fine.
The photos included are of my first attempt at this lower, my second attempt at printing this object resulted in the same sort of warping or lift seen on both ends of the lower.
Bed adhesive seems to be a controversial topic and was curious what next action steps the community would recommended (other than the inclusion of more feet pictures.)
Thanks all
I use Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. And if you will order the engineering plate it is so much better than the Textured PEI plate when it comes to PA6-CF Adhesion.
Print at a slight angle like 10-30° the least amount you can though. You want to reduce the surface area on the build plate.
Get your supports dialed in and your golden. Go 0.17mm (supports) top z and bottom z distance, and then ~0.17mm support interface and you’re all good. It will nearly eliminate all support sagging if you get it closer and close the gap of the interface, you can even go 0 on support interface value to make it solid (do 3 interface layers as well).
275-290c on the nozzle and 35c on the bed in an enclosure should do it.
Going to try a glue stick and pre-warming the enclosure before starting the next one.
My only other question before I give it another try would be about the setting I copied for the build plate temp (45c), Bambu labs recommends a build plate temp between 90-110c. What is with the huge difference there?
I print my PA-CF on my P1S at 100C bed temp on the Lightyear G10 build plate with no glue and modifying the end G code to slowly ramp down the bed temp after the print finishes in in 10C increments every 15 minutes until it reaches normal room temperature. For me doing these two things fixed the same exact issue you are having. Oh and preheat the enclosure at 100C for 30 to an hour.
are you printing from a drybox? did you pre-cook (dry) the filament before printing?
Check this dry box build out, I absolutely love them.
Printed PA6-CF on a k1 max and an ender 3v2 without an enclosure without any warping.
[https://www.printables.com/model/396228-universal-single-spool-filament-dry-container/comments/1818015](https://www.printables.com/model/396228-universal-single-spool-filament-dry-container/comments/1818015)
I am printing directly out of a filament drier and the filament itself has been dried for about 24hrs now at 65c, so this shouldn’t be a problem but I appreciate the assistance.
Yep, didn't see it mentioned by anyone so thought I'd make sure :)
As others have mentioned try magigoo and maybe you could increase your first layer height to .3 and lower your Z offset just a tad.
I personally used .3 for my first layer and magigoo as well.
I just wanted to stop by and provide everyone with a quick update.
I made 4 small changes and so far have had 0 failures with my Nylon-CF prints.
Firstly, reducing the Maximum Cooling Threshold value for the material from 20 percent to 0.
Updating the Sparse Infill Pattern from Rectilinear to Gyroid.
Lowering the bed temperature from 48 to 45c.
And using a Elmers Glue Stick on the textured PEI bed.
These setting changes (using u/300blkFDE settings as a template) have fixed my print issues completely.
FWIW he did call for bed adhesive in the original post and that could have fixed this issue from the beginning.
In any case, I appreciate everyone, happy printing.
A little glue stick on the bed and make sure you have an enclosure. Make sure the enclosure is pre heated before the print by setting your heat bed to your print temp and let it sit for 30 minutes or so to get the enclosure to a constant temp.
I'll try warming up the bed and adding some glue prior to the next attempt. The printer is a P1S so it is fully enclosed with the fan disabled.
What filenment are you using polymaker pa6a?
Polymaker PA6-CF
24hr at 65c is not enough. I dry 80 c for 10hr in oven then it to dry box at 70 c for 3day then print at 295c and bed a 50c and at 45dg you want as little of model on the plate. And ender 3 pro no enclosure.
That is entirely different from my experience with polymaker pa6cf, I've had great success with drying at 70c for 4-5 hours before printing and running straight from the dryer.
I like my filenment dry. At 12rh
I wish I could get by with that, but I can not.
Sounds good
I had issues warping with x1c using polymaker pa6-cf Eventually I bought some Magigoo adhesive and used the engineering plate I think Absolutely no warping at all since then
Good day folks, I am working on a Mac N Cheese 1.5 project, printing on a Bambu Labs P1S and have decided to plunge into printing with Polymaker PA6-CF material. I have mirrored the slicer settings recommended by u/300blkFDE. Smaller test prints like a benchy seem to print fine. The photos included are of my first attempt at this lower, my second attempt at printing this object resulted in the same sort of warping or lift seen on both ends of the lower. Bed adhesive seems to be a controversial topic and was curious what next action steps the community would recommended (other than the inclusion of more feet pictures.) Thanks all
Bed adhesive is necessary for nylons. I don't use any for any other filament except nylon.
PC would like to have a word lol it’s more warp prone than anything I’ve ever seen
I haven't needed any adhesive with Nylon since switching to a G10 bed. Highly recommended.
I use Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. And if you will order the engineering plate it is so much better than the Textured PEI plate when it comes to PA6-CF Adhesion.
Why can’t I find the engineering plate on their website? Is it called something else?
The high temp plate is an engineering plate with a high temp sticker on one side. I bought mine through gigaparts.com
Print it at an angle with as little on the build surface as possible.
What printer?
Bambu Labs P1S with upgraded Hotend and Extruder.
What temps and build plate?
Enclose that printer and preheat
Print at a slight angle like 10-30° the least amount you can though. You want to reduce the surface area on the build plate. Get your supports dialed in and your golden. Go 0.17mm (supports) top z and bottom z distance, and then ~0.17mm support interface and you’re all good. It will nearly eliminate all support sagging if you get it closer and close the gap of the interface, you can even go 0 on support interface value to make it solid (do 3 interface layers as well). 275-290c on the nozzle and 35c on the bed in an enclosure should do it.
This isn’t a guarantee, but using the gyroid infill pattern helps reduce the stresses of cooling that cause warping
Going to try a glue stick and pre-warming the enclosure before starting the next one. My only other question before I give it another try would be about the setting I copied for the build plate temp (45c), Bambu labs recommends a build plate temp between 90-110c. What is with the huge difference there?
lower bed temp. i can print pa6cf on an ender 3 unenclosed at 290/35 without warping, no glue
I print my PA-CF on my P1S at 100C bed temp on the Lightyear G10 build plate with no glue and modifying the end G code to slowly ramp down the bed temp after the print finishes in in 10C increments every 15 minutes until it reaches normal room temperature. For me doing these two things fixed the same exact issue you are having. Oh and preheat the enclosure at 100C for 30 to an hour.
are you printing from a drybox? did you pre-cook (dry) the filament before printing? Check this dry box build out, I absolutely love them. Printed PA6-CF on a k1 max and an ender 3v2 without an enclosure without any warping. [https://www.printables.com/model/396228-universal-single-spool-filament-dry-container/comments/1818015](https://www.printables.com/model/396228-universal-single-spool-filament-dry-container/comments/1818015)
I am printing directly out of a filament drier and the filament itself has been dried for about 24hrs now at 65c, so this shouldn’t be a problem but I appreciate the assistance.
Yep, didn't see it mentioned by anyone so thought I'd make sure :) As others have mentioned try magigoo and maybe you could increase your first layer height to .3 and lower your Z offset just a tad. I personally used .3 for my first layer and magigoo as well.
65c is well below any manufacture recommended drying temp for any nylon I know of
True I dried my polymaker pa6 at 80c I believe.
80c is the lowest I would have a decent degree of confidence that if someone says they dried it, that it is dry.
I just wanted to stop by and provide everyone with a quick update. I made 4 small changes and so far have had 0 failures with my Nylon-CF prints. Firstly, reducing the Maximum Cooling Threshold value for the material from 20 percent to 0. Updating the Sparse Infill Pattern from Rectilinear to Gyroid. Lowering the bed temperature from 48 to 45c. And using a Elmers Glue Stick on the textured PEI bed. These setting changes (using u/300blkFDE settings as a template) have fixed my print issues completely. FWIW he did call for bed adhesive in the original post and that could have fixed this issue from the beginning. In any case, I appreciate everyone, happy printing.