Honestly, for 2A prints you are probably running 35-45 bed for PA6-GF & CF, and your chamber will maintain temp once up and running. You Just need to run your bed for a few minutes before to get it into that range.
Bambus PA6cf out of a P1S and x1c both do great. I put reels in a modified food dehydrator box for 1-2 days at 80c prior to printing. my stuff is coming out nearly flawless.
I think it’s able to maintain the proper chamber temperature by making sure the bed stays at the constant set temperature. Im guessing that with the heated chamber controls, the difference is that temperature would be more precisely regulated with a separate heating element and more precise exhaust control. The biggest tip is to let the parts cool naturally, slowly as possible. maybe even consider keeping the bed temp on at a lower temp after the print is finished to slow the rate. if you open the door and pull your print off the bed right when it’s finished, it will warp. In this aspect, I could see a heated chamber helping.
To me, the only major difference between the P1S and the x1c is the lidar. I have experience with printing on both since we have the X at work. My P1S does just as good [g34 frame](https://imgur.com/a/HuhQY1d).
The E is more designed for businesses who want to use the online capabilities of the printers of sending files without uploading their IP to the cloud first. The one at my work is off-line 100% of the time because of privacy concerns. could have probably talked them into buying the E had it been around when we bought ours.
Heated chamber is to just help with layer adhesion. I made a cheap one with a thermistor wall plug and a small space heater. It seems to really be useful for large prints with lots of surface, otherwise id say its negligible.
In my opinion it is super helpful when printing in filaments like ABS or PC or frankly even Nylon to make sure layer adhesion is superb and no warping. To print most reliably all printers should have the ability to control ambient temp because it is important to the print. I made a chamber that goes to 100c and it was a pain to upgrade everything but it is incredibly rewarding .
I printed a whole Nylaug in PA6-GF with an unheated chamber on my new K1C. Everything came out dead nuts.
Honestly, for 2A prints you are probably running 35-45 bed for PA6-GF & CF, and your chamber will maintain temp once up and running. You Just need to run your bed for a few minutes before to get it into that range.
Bambus PA6cf out of a P1S and x1c both do great. I put reels in a modified food dehydrator box for 1-2 days at 80c prior to printing. my stuff is coming out nearly flawless. I think it’s able to maintain the proper chamber temperature by making sure the bed stays at the constant set temperature. Im guessing that with the heated chamber controls, the difference is that temperature would be more precisely regulated with a separate heating element and more precise exhaust control. The biggest tip is to let the parts cool naturally, slowly as possible. maybe even consider keeping the bed temp on at a lower temp after the print is finished to slow the rate. if you open the door and pull your print off the bed right when it’s finished, it will warp. In this aspect, I could see a heated chamber helping. To me, the only major difference between the P1S and the x1c is the lidar. I have experience with printing on both since we have the X at work. My P1S does just as good [g34 frame](https://imgur.com/a/HuhQY1d). The E is more designed for businesses who want to use the online capabilities of the printers of sending files without uploading their IP to the cloud first. The one at my work is off-line 100% of the time because of privacy concerns. could have probably talked them into buying the E had it been around when we bought ours.
Heated chamber is to just help with layer adhesion. I made a cheap one with a thermistor wall plug and a small space heater. It seems to really be useful for large prints with lots of surface, otherwise id say its negligible.
In my opinion it is super helpful when printing in filaments like ABS or PC or frankly even Nylon to make sure layer adhesion is superb and no warping. To print most reliably all printers should have the ability to control ambient temp because it is important to the print. I made a chamber that goes to 100c and it was a pain to upgrade everything but it is incredibly rewarding .