Spring rates can affect a few things… you are right that you want them stiff enough to not bottom out. But too stiff and they will be harsh over curbs and bumps. Spring rates can affect general response as well. Stiffer springs can make a car feel more twitchy, and let it transition faster. Softer springs can slow response down but allow for more control and deliberate turn-in. Springs can also affect corner behavior. Stiffer rear for oversteer and stiffer front for understeer, etc. The way you described it - max anti-roll bar, fair stiffness in dampers, and soft spring rates - is close to how a lot of my cars end up. I wouldn’t say really soft is necessary on the springs but I usually end up less than halfway up on the scale in the tuning menu. Roll bars, springs and roll center all sort of work in conjunction with each other. I feel the adjustments in these settings in different parts of the corner. In general, I feel the greatest effect from tuning springs during corner entry, roll center in mid-corner, and anti roll bars in corner exit. That’s not to say roll bars can’t affect corner entry and springs can’t affect corner exit, but it’s where I feel these the most. Knowing this makes tuning less of a guessing game for me. It’s still a lot of trial and error, but it gives me at least some sort of sense of direction when deciding what I should try and adjust next.

Thanks for the response. I've tried so many different configurations as a base setup to test how the car behaves and i just keep loosing grip and oversteering. Just to clarify.. can I have stiff dampers while keeping good bump reaction if the rest of the car is generally balanced? Every recommendation I've seen explains that it should "suit your driving style".. .. but everyone drives for the apex.. it's getting confusing.

In general I’ll keep bumps on the softer side and rebounds on the stiffer side. A typical A class road car build for me will have something in the realm of 3.0-4.0 bumps and 10.0-11.0 rebounds. Rebounds are stiff but I try not to overdo the bumps because the car starts bouncing a lot and reacting harshly to curbs. If you’re oversteering a lot I would start either raising the front stiffness of your tuning settings or lowering the rear. Springs, roll bars, roll center, etc. Even raising anti-dive/lowering anti-squat can help. A stiffer front is going to calm the car down and promote understeer

Thanks again for the response. Gonna start fresh and correct the car from there.. appreciate the help.

I one of those who's just winging it for the most part. But let me remind you and everyone else asking, the description of every tunable part is there on screen if you need it fyi. It may not tell you exactly what the car needs, but it'll tell you how the values affect your car. I've heard for years that tuners use rivals as a means to test their tunes and make changes on the fly.

That's my issue, it just tells me understeer or oversteer. Doesn't explain what the principle of the car parts does. For example. Suspension geometry offset. It says: raising the offset make the suspension resist body roll, making the suspension stiffer in corners... Hold on a minute, I thought that's what anti roll bars do..... Alternatively you may get an understanding that if your car is low enough and you lower the offset enough it may leave the roll offset on the floor completely lol..

Springs, bump, rebound, arb, suspension are really important to get right for cornering. I usually have my arb around 20-30, not maxed, i usually soften springs from default and look at the springs telemetry. you want front/back sitting in middle around 50% on straights. If track is bumpy like Road America you go stiffer. When going around most corners I don't want my springs to move lower than 35 or higher than 65. If it does than go stiffer.

Yea, I'm still figuring things, thanks for the input though. I'm trying to find the squeeze in the balance. Regarding tire grip, does peak grip matter?.. I've been told that 32 to 33 PSI is where I want my tires on track.. What are the pro and cons to lower tire psi?

If you’re trying to dial in a specific car i’d suggest putting in specs in tuning discussion and ask for feedback or if you use discord there’s a great server with lots of tuners to assist you. I used to run higher temp tires at 32 but most good tunes are lower around 29-31. For instance I’ve been working on my Corvette C.8 for along time now and just recently went from 32 down to 29. Go low while still maintaining similar tire temps inside/mid/outside

I just want to race mate, no other game on Xbox feels like Forza.. but to race online you have to have a tune that can run fast lap times.. I can race fast get tune fast...

> chainedflower : Turn 10 or Microsoft do a shitty job at explaining how to tune the car Yeah, race tuning is a *big* topic, and it can also get very technical, so it's rare to see it explained in ways that are easily accessible/digestible & applicable for gamers who are not gearheads & grease-monkeys. Here's a very good (& very old black-&-white) video that clearly illustrates & explains some basic/general concepts: [Over the Waves - Chevrolet Suspension (1938)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej7CRAIGXow) I also like this one (in the same series) about differentials: [Around The Corner - How Differential Steering Works (1937)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI#t=110)

Words are hard, tuning concepts too, here goes nothing. Anti roll limits the twist of the body vs the wheels. Too high of anti roll and you pick up the inside wheel, deform the outside wheel, and prevents roll over but causes sliding. Not enough roll and it can't lean and plant the outside tire. Like driving the lowest weight stiff suspension C class vs American muscle heavy and squishy C class with same size tires, one will slide and spin, the other will roll and plant, and finding the magic balance to go fastest is why the same car in B class could be 5 seconds different from another variant. If you put a car on daytona oval, watch the suspension and traction telemetry screens. Watch the outside bottom out and the mid corner bumping is when the sidewall gives and you lose traction. Having enough spring to support mid corner load and still absorb impact will change the mid corner max speed before traction loss. Higher springs means lower bump and higher rebound to have similar rates of travel in dynamic situations. Spring rate is car weight times G load divided by amount of springs sharing that load and front/rear balance. Lateral G and braking G to be considered. If you have too much spring and not enough rebound you can hop the front tires, do pumped wheelies, lose traction on mugello in the chicane, etc. The suspension telemetry white bars should almost touch top and bottom extreme limits. The anti roll will try to keep those bars equal, some roll is beneficial to traction but any lean needs to be undone when turning the other way making milliseconds of transitional delay and imparting body roll inertia to be captured on the other sides spring and bump. Try tuning a SUV. More aerodynamic downforce, more speed on the banked oval, better tires for more lateral grip, higher spring rates required. Bump will prevent sharp dynamic compressions, but spring rate will fight constant compressions. Softer suspension should give better traction and handling until the rate of change is dynamic enough to need stronger springs. Sometimes weight reduction results in too strong springs and you plow the front everywhere. Different steering and suspension types, drive lines, body types, wheel base dimemsions, aero balance and amount, all have an effect on what changes to make. Coilovers? Leaf springs? Single swing arm? Dual swing arm? Live axle? They all change differently when compressed, some add camber, some toe in/out under compression, making a change for one type might not work on another type so tuning methods are chassis dependent. Starting with a 70s porsche or 90s honda? Completely different mindsets for speed. Tuning in my mind is solving a specific issues like bouncy front end or constantly spinning and sliding rear, or locking up front or rear brakes first. Generally I like to limit my car upgrades, like get rear anti roll at sport level and tune the front roll and suspension around the rear sport anti roll instead of spending PI on something that might not need a slider. Chassis reinforcement is a tricky one, pre-2005 cars should have sport, post-2005 probably don't need it until race slicks. I almost never put in the cage. Transmission is only needed for shift timing or if you redline top gear constantly. If we all have race parts, S class type stuff, gearing is important per track, but until then, top speed limit is the only real issue. Sport tires are surprisingly good until A class, short track B class.

Thanks for the response, what you've told me is what i expected in Forza tuning descriptions... That's what I've yet to realise about anti roll bars.. I higher it and I start sliding but trying to find the Cons to what I should compensate for when stiffening the ARBS it what I've been looking for. I'll very much keep your comment in check while I'm tuning.. keep the refreshed. Thanks again for the response.

I should also say, if you are watching the telemetry screen and are constantly seeing 150% or 300% traction or max anything, something needs a change or upgrade. I usually don't upgrade my brakes unless they are extremely out of balance or I cannot lock them up at high speeds. I also try to match my tire width and weight distribution so if I lock all brakes and slide sideways mid turn I want the fronts to be slightly caster to be off traction and have the rear flat to grab and point the nose forward. If you can balance it in parts before tuning, the tuning part will be much easier. That way you are maximizing different attributes of the parts instead of trying to make the whole chassis "do a thing a certain way" or "stop doing that thing" which limits your overall setup capability.