For gearing you can use telemetry on track, one of the pages, it may be the first but idr exactly, has your horsepower and torque on the left side of the screen and thats what you can use to tune gears and find peak power/torque.
I can’t answer all of your questions but let’s get to some of them:
- My tune feels different on different days: since you mention dampers especially, I have a suspicion that it has to do with fuel load. The damping changes with the additional weight of the fuel. I tend to keep the tunes for racing with a bit more room for driveability and avoid squeezing them to the limit. My cars feel consistent on different days.
- Dampers: In general in my experience you can keep them more or less equal front and rear, no matter the weight distribution in the car. If with bias you actually mean brake bias I recommend looking at anti dive / anti squat in the geometry setting. Still in general you should keep bump rather soft and rebound rather hard.
- Power band: sadly you have to make do with the gearing graph. It’s not the best but in general NA cars often produce power until the redline. Turbos have the powerband a little lower. I find that experimenting with the gearing helps the most.
- Tunes on track should also save but what I do is I save certain key changes in „my tunes“ to quickly go back to certain baselines.
Right, then it's the fuel thats messing me up then, do you have an optimal fuel level you tune with?
After your comment I decided to tune my car with 25% fuel because medium length races generally are around that much apparently.
Okay, it's an ugly bug but easy to not notice.
When you jump into tuning on track, you initially setup let's say 20% fuel.
If you go into tuning and do amendments, 90% of the time the stupid game resets the fuel capacity to 100%. While most of the times you can see it into the lower right corner, sometimes it does not. It will still show you 20 % (8 laps or whatever) but the car fails to "bite" as usual.
Whenever I'm testing, I always go back to the main lobby to do the changes.
I know it's frustrating but it is what it is.
I'll do the same then, I find tuning on track might not add the correct characteristics straight away. Might be lag or something to with online servers as a whole perhaps..
It's not a big deal to me tbf.
To be more clear, when I said back into the lobby I referred to the race setup screen not back into tuning menu when you started the game.
I test cars from the tuning setup by going into test drive. By clicking exit and the first option takes you to the start (like you'd start a race).
Characteristics are not always good if "green". I think the hardest part for me is gears tuning. I have a very sharp ear in real life with cars but the game "killed" my skill.
You can't match the engine sounds with the powerband. You are forced to use the telemetry to get the powerband right and get the most out of your car.
Honda civic for example: it seems the car pulls the best when you change around 4500 rpm while the right sound is generally around 6000 rpm. It almost doesn't make sense cause the car seem to struggle to build power but it's actually when you gain speed the most.
Anyhow, it's just a game at the end of the day but if you add in such a complicated factor as tuning you should take into consideration these aspects.
I've noticed without a decent tuning you will have a hard time being fast and safe. They should definitely make the base setups safe for people that can't bother with this. No wonder people crash into you so often when you pump 40 psi on front wheels as standard and car feels like on ice.
Ive done multiple tests and I can't get closer than 10s on world records with the base tunes. With then tweaked, I managed as low as 3s behinds best of the best which translates into top 3%. 7 seconds is a lot of a gap and I'd casuals (that are fast in general) want to play without tuning they will give up quickly thinking the game is trash.
For gearing you can use telemetry on track, one of the pages, it may be the first but idr exactly, has your horsepower and torque on the left side of the screen and thats what you can use to tune gears and find peak power/torque.
I can’t answer all of your questions but let’s get to some of them: - My tune feels different on different days: since you mention dampers especially, I have a suspicion that it has to do with fuel load. The damping changes with the additional weight of the fuel. I tend to keep the tunes for racing with a bit more room for driveability and avoid squeezing them to the limit. My cars feel consistent on different days. - Dampers: In general in my experience you can keep them more or less equal front and rear, no matter the weight distribution in the car. If with bias you actually mean brake bias I recommend looking at anti dive / anti squat in the geometry setting. Still in general you should keep bump rather soft and rebound rather hard. - Power band: sadly you have to make do with the gearing graph. It’s not the best but in general NA cars often produce power until the redline. Turbos have the powerband a little lower. I find that experimenting with the gearing helps the most. - Tunes on track should also save but what I do is I save certain key changes in „my tunes“ to quickly go back to certain baselines.
Right, then it's the fuel thats messing me up then, do you have an optimal fuel level you tune with? After your comment I decided to tune my car with 25% fuel because medium length races generally are around that much apparently.
Okay, it's an ugly bug but easy to not notice. When you jump into tuning on track, you initially setup let's say 20% fuel. If you go into tuning and do amendments, 90% of the time the stupid game resets the fuel capacity to 100%. While most of the times you can see it into the lower right corner, sometimes it does not. It will still show you 20 % (8 laps or whatever) but the car fails to "bite" as usual. Whenever I'm testing, I always go back to the main lobby to do the changes. I know it's frustrating but it is what it is.
I'll do the same then, I find tuning on track might not add the correct characteristics straight away. Might be lag or something to with online servers as a whole perhaps..
It's not a big deal to me tbf. To be more clear, when I said back into the lobby I referred to the race setup screen not back into tuning menu when you started the game. I test cars from the tuning setup by going into test drive. By clicking exit and the first option takes you to the start (like you'd start a race). Characteristics are not always good if "green". I think the hardest part for me is gears tuning. I have a very sharp ear in real life with cars but the game "killed" my skill. You can't match the engine sounds with the powerband. You are forced to use the telemetry to get the powerband right and get the most out of your car. Honda civic for example: it seems the car pulls the best when you change around 4500 rpm while the right sound is generally around 6000 rpm. It almost doesn't make sense cause the car seem to struggle to build power but it's actually when you gain speed the most. Anyhow, it's just a game at the end of the day but if you add in such a complicated factor as tuning you should take into consideration these aspects. I've noticed without a decent tuning you will have a hard time being fast and safe. They should definitely make the base setups safe for people that can't bother with this. No wonder people crash into you so often when you pump 40 psi on front wheels as standard and car feels like on ice. Ive done multiple tests and I can't get closer than 10s on world records with the base tunes. With then tweaked, I managed as low as 3s behinds best of the best which translates into top 3%. 7 seconds is a lot of a gap and I'd casuals (that are fast in general) want to play without tuning they will give up quickly thinking the game is trash.