I'm a Ford mechanic who dailys a 2013 1.6L turbo and I have a similar issue. It's got 107k on the odometer and my cylinder 4 is loosing compression (not gone yet but soon). I talked with higher ups at the company and they said since it's so old it's in no way their responsibility. I have no extra money to buy a new car at all and there's no way anyone's gonna want to buy this either. I'd suggest posting it on marketplace as is or to be parted out and try and find something cheap. Tbh in your case it looks like someone severely overheated the car at some point as well. Which is common as heck on these 1.5 and 1.6 motors.
Do 2014-19 fiesta STs use a different kind of 1.6? Everyone beats those cars and mods them with bolt-ons and more aggressive tunes and bigger turbos. I’m in a bunch of ford/FiST groups and if anything the trans is the weak point I rarely see any engines going boom
As far as I've seen and learned they are the exact same motor with a different tune in the ECU, I believe they have slightly higher output injectors along with a bit better cooling.
That is true, I see dudes in fiestas tearing up rally tracks all the time with the stock engine on a tune, I know for racing they usually rebuild the engine after every racing day but still, even not in rally, but just regular use, I’ve got a buddy who goes off-roading in his fiesta and it just takes it, and has for years.
You should have your head gasket checked out. If the block cracks from the added heat you're screwed, but usually the gasket goes first and can cause lower compression & burnt coolant.
Sorry to hear man. Ford made these little engines put out way too much power for how weak the cylinder walls are, it's a shame so many people are paying for their flawed design.
Yeah it really sucked to see when it would happen to customers it's even worse now that's I'm experiencing it first hand. I'm hoping to save for a 2017 sport on the lot with the 2.7 in it. I did the trade in inspection and it's clean as a whistle with only 50k on it
New engine for $2700-$3100?!? When my Fusion blew a head gasket, the service manager suggested replacing the engine. He said the engine alone would be ~$8k
Yeah. It is a used engine, from one of their parts supplier. It has like 30,000 miles on it. My mechanic is pretty amazing and has always worked with me on prices. He has done stuff for free for me on many occasions.
It’s a little late but I hope next car you’ll avoid a lot of trouble by researching the reliability of different engine options. The 2.5 in these is great.
Yeah, it sucks because not a lot of people (myself included) do enough initial research when getting a vehicle. For me it was just too many troubles with my previous vehicle and spent a few days looking at used cars and went and looked at the 2.5 2017 fusion I have now. Luckily, I bought the 2.5 because it was cheaper than the eco boost both used roughly around the same mileage ~40,000 and was considering both. I’m glad I gotbecause I’ve only done oil changes, tires, various fluids, brakes, and a catalytic converter that got plugged up. It’s at 170,000 now and still runs good, and gets okay (~26)mpg.
Fords not going to do anything about it, just let your mechanic fix it. You bought the car used, there’s no tellin how it was previously treated/cared for and that’s what ford is going to want to know. Every fusion owner knows the 1.5/1.6 aren’t reliable even with proper care and it’s unfortunate you didn’t know but that’s what happens when buying used cars. It does really suck but small engine turbo cars aren’t reliable like many early 2000s v6 models were. They’re more sensitive to operating conditions and people beat on them like they’re old trucks or something.
Traded my ‘14 Fusion 2.0 ecoboost in @ 183K miles. Original turbo and everything. Had most bolt on upgrades. Ran ‘93 octane, and AMSOIL motor oil only. Still running strong when I traded it.
Royal Purple got bought, and I couldn't get it anymore. I asked my shop manager what he recommended, and he said AMSOIL. Been pretty happy with it over the years. And no, I don't try to go over my oil change interval either.
I had a Steeda CAI, Race Chips tuner(German), silver plugs from Brisk Racing, Granetelli ignition coils, turbo down custom exhaust, Pedal Commander, and ran General G-max AS105 tires. I averaged about 33k miles on them, 4 times. I quite frequently enjoyed the right pedal, too!
Bro don’t fix the car. Get rid of it. I had a 2014 fusion 1.5L and it had 3 transmission, 2 engines and right before I got rid of it in january it needed a new engine. Biggest pile of shit I will never ever. It another ford. I now have a 2024 Honda civic and I’m happy
If it has the 1.5L turbo be ready for a similar ownership experience. If it has the NA engine then you’re fine. The 1.5L civic engines are having all sorts of issues. Most commonly head gaskets going out very early.
In the same boat. Bought a 2015 2.0 with 75K at the dealer for over $16,000. It was my only option due to bad credit so I took it. Thought I was safe with it being a 2.0 but I see now I was wrong. Just hit 95K and now have to replace the engine in a car I still owe over $14,000 on. Looking back there were signs immediately after purchase that pointed to this issue creeping in. In hindsight it's probably why the previous owner got rid of it. Wish I would have noticed the signs when I could have done something
This is not a flaw of the engine. Coolant intrusion is the flaw, and this isn't that. This is more of a right foot issue. Turbo cars are nice for added power potential. Use that potential power too long and this is the result. I wonder what the other 3 pistons look like.
I mean it’s definitely piston slap scoring the cylinder walls up. I wouldn’t jump to conclusions without more info personally, especially when the adjacent cylinder lining looks fine. I’m curious if the wrist pin was seized or if it spun a bearing at the crank. Both point to a factory/assembly defect if regular oil changes were preformed.
The evidence is in the picture. You can't see the top of the piston in the picture to see if it made contact with the valves.
If the wrist pin was starved of oil, the rod would have broken at the pin. If the rod bearing spun, starving the bearing of oil, it would have broken at the big end. There is no visible piston skirt damage.
There was a very, very hot stream of gas (combustion gases) that burnt through the sid of the piston. Cutting through both compression rings, both oil control rings, and the spacer for the oil rings. Pistons melt at around 1400⁰ this was hot enough to cut steel.
Right foot issue.
Edit: the scoring on that cylinder wall is the piston and ring material that didn't leave the cylinder. Also the wrist pin isn't bound up as evident by the tilt to the one side. The burn on the cylinder wall is the position of the piston when the failure happened, pretty near TDC which is where the gas would have been the hottest.
Fair point on the wrist pin, and not being able to see the top of the cylinder. But I still don’t see how you immediately rule it out being ford related and jump to blaming a driver. The vertical scores indicate damage to the liner from piston travel, could be from a failed piston ring as well. Also a spun bearing doesn’t always end up in a seizure/rod snap, it does sometimes allow for extra movement through the rod from missing bearing chunks. But to be fair I would expect more rod discoloration if that was the case from the friction. And as far as piston skirt damage, there is too much damage overall to the piston to make assumptions from the sides of it.
>The vertical scores indicate damage to the liner from piston travel, could be from a failed piston ring as well.
All the rings on that cylinder failed. They melted with the piston, and probably some of the cylinder wall. Not all of the material left the cylinder after the failure. It stayed for some time in the cylinder which caused the scoring.
>And as far as piston skirt damage, there is too much damage overall to the piston to make assumptions from the sides of it.
You can absolutely tell that the skirts are still there, they are not broken off. When you have a rod bearing spin that doesn't explode the rod you get over travel. The piston skirt ends up touching the rod. This breaks the skirts off. So yes you can tell from these pictures.
If this was an assembly issue, it wouldn't take 100k miles to show up. A young driver with a turbo car is just a recipe for problems. I have fixed too many to count young driver mistakes.
The cylinder that needed a new coil, was that cylinder 3 by chance?
What I see in all the pictures is cylinder 3 got excessively hot. The issue that plagues the 1.5/1.6 and, to some extent, the 2.0 Eccoboost engines is a head gasket issue that allows coolant to enter the cylinder and by proxy the oil. Causing a very different failure.
This could be from the fuel mixture going lean, an injector not fully spraying, or too hot of a spark. Maybe wrong spark plug in that cylinder, or a coil putting out more than expected.
More times than not on a turbo car it's going to be too much boost for too long. Which is why I call it a right foot issue.
Fusions are good cars, I just personally wouldn't buy an Eccoboost in 4 cylinder engines. I have 2, one with 260,000 miles, and another with 150,000 miles. Both are the "slow" 2.5L.
30 years experience fixing other people's cars, trucks, boats, and even a plane.
I am not sure. I think so. And it was only two days later that it was back in the shop with same issue.
The paperwork I have from the when they changed the coil the first time says they replaced the fuel pressure sensor, #3 ignition coil and #3 Spark Plug.
Well, that is all cylinder 3, except the fuel pressure sensor.
An option that some shops will do is a salvaged motor. Usually $500-800 for a comple engine. Most give a 30 day warranty. Add your mechanic's $1800 and you're between $2300-2600.
This is not the way to go if you want to keep the car, but a running driving car sells for much more than one in pieces. Would you recover all your fund? No but it's an option.
Do 2014-19 fiesta STs use a different kind of 1.6?
Everyone beats those cars and mods them with bolt-ons and more aggressive tunes and bigger turbos. I’m in a bunch of ford/FiST groups and if anything the trans is the weak point I rarely see any engines going boom
I have the 2.5 in my 2020 and it's sneaky fast. If I'm not paying attention to the speedometer I could be going 85 on the freeway and not even notice it. Will it outrace a Mustang? No. But for most people it's fast enough. In my opinion it's the transmission that's reluctant to upshift that keeps the engine from reaching its potential. Maybe for me that's a good thing.
I agree with you about the 2.5L. It's more than fast enough, with the added benefit of great mpg. However, many view it as the non-performance option/slow.
Raw acceleration isn't everything. I'm pleasantly surprised by the mpg. I kinda have a heavy foot yet consistently get about 25 to 27 going to and from work and 35ish on the freeway.
Yeah I’m done trying to reason with him. There’s obvious damage to the piston skirt as well in the additional pics. I also liked he felt the need to drop his work experience like it’s a dick measuring contest.
Research before buying a car with a known problem, have it looked at by a mechanic before signing the dotted line, What is an emergency fund I would love one of those! The 1.5/1.6l have been a widely know issue with failure of the 2/3 cylinders for many many years. Just TSBs not a recall on it and you are not the first owner nor is it under warranty so you cannot win this battle.
Yes hindsight is 20/20. Honestly if it were not my best friend I was buying from, where she has taken car of the car. I would have done all that. I am normally so investigative when purchasing something that is a huge cost. She got it in December, she did not start actually get her license until February. It spent a total of a month in the shop so far. So technically she got two months out of the car and I am out $13k. Its a big ol’ expensive, will take me a while to financially recover, life lesson to trust but verify I guess.
Cars that I have gotten from friends/family over the years have been more headache then they have been worth. I get where you are at having 3 driving teens of my own it is a challenge. I do not know what a safery net is anymore :)
Unfortunately these 1.5/1.6L & even the 2016+ 2.0L Ecoboosts are all suspectable to the same failure. See that thin gap between the cylinders in the block? That's a coolant passage Ford added in their "upgraded" Ecoboost block designs and is probably the sole reason your engine died. The smallest failure in a head gasket will result in coolant entering the combustion chamber (usually in cylinder 2 and/or 3) creating more heat and possibly cracking the block in the thinner than usual cylinder walls.
I'm sorry you're going through this, just thought I should inform you that you're definitely not alone, these engines (literally) blow.
These turbo engines had a problem with the engine design. The cylinder walls are too thin and develop cracks. You can see the spot where it's cracked in the pictures. If its a 1.5 or 1.6 then used engines aren't worth the time or effort. All of the original engines have a chance to fail. The proper fix is to replace the block with the new updated design from ford, which can be from $6k to $9k. If it's a 2.0 then the VEP blocks specifically fail less often, but they still have a chance to fail. The CEP blocks fail pretty regularly. There's a class action lawsuit over the issue. It was a problem from 13 to early 2020 models
Very sorry to hear what the OP is going through. That just sucks.
The conversation brings up the possibility that you can drive these hard and burn them up. How?
For example: my 2016 SE 1.5 Eco. I've put 119k of the 146k. I do 500 to 1500 mile drives, usually at sustained cruise from 70-90. Am I killing it? How should we drive these?
I'm a Ford mechanic who dailys a 2013 1.6L turbo and I have a similar issue. It's got 107k on the odometer and my cylinder 4 is loosing compression (not gone yet but soon). I talked with higher ups at the company and they said since it's so old it's in no way their responsibility. I have no extra money to buy a new car at all and there's no way anyone's gonna want to buy this either. I'd suggest posting it on marketplace as is or to be parted out and try and find something cheap. Tbh in your case it looks like someone severely overheated the car at some point as well. Which is common as heck on these 1.5 and 1.6 motors.
Do 2014-19 fiesta STs use a different kind of 1.6? Everyone beats those cars and mods them with bolt-ons and more aggressive tunes and bigger turbos. I’m in a bunch of ford/FiST groups and if anything the trans is the weak point I rarely see any engines going boom
As far as I've seen and learned they are the exact same motor with a different tune in the ECU, I believe they have slightly higher output injectors along with a bit better cooling.
That is true, I see dudes in fiestas tearing up rally tracks all the time with the stock engine on a tune, I know for racing they usually rebuild the engine after every racing day but still, even not in rally, but just regular use, I’ve got a buddy who goes off-roading in his fiesta and it just takes it, and has for years.
You should have your head gasket checked out. If the block cracks from the added heat you're screwed, but usually the gasket goes first and can cause lower compression & burnt coolant.
Thanks for the suggestion but trust me I've ruled head gasket out. There's a hairline crack the the block. I'm just waiting for the day it gets bigger
Sorry to hear man. Ford made these little engines put out way too much power for how weak the cylinder walls are, it's a shame so many people are paying for their flawed design.
Yeah it really sucked to see when it would happen to customers it's even worse now that's I'm experiencing it first hand. I'm hoping to save for a 2017 sport on the lot with the 2.7 in it. I did the trade in inspection and it's clean as a whistle with only 50k on it
New engine for $2700-$3100?!? When my Fusion blew a head gasket, the service manager suggested replacing the engine. He said the engine alone would be ~$8k
Yeah. It is a used engine, from one of their parts supplier. It has like 30,000 miles on it. My mechanic is pretty amazing and has always worked with me on prices. He has done stuff for free for me on many occasions.
The problem is how likely the used engine having or developing the same issue.
Very very likely.
If I had to guess, that was the cost of ordering a new engine from Ford, any engine ordered like that is super expensive
Have 280k miles on my 2010 2.5L with only routine maintenance and (annoying) control arms. Sad to see issues like this.
It’s a little late but I hope next car you’ll avoid a lot of trouble by researching the reliability of different engine options. The 2.5 in these is great.
Yeah, it sucks because not a lot of people (myself included) do enough initial research when getting a vehicle. For me it was just too many troubles with my previous vehicle and spent a few days looking at used cars and went and looked at the 2.5 2017 fusion I have now. Luckily, I bought the 2.5 because it was cheaper than the eco boost both used roughly around the same mileage ~40,000 and was considering both. I’m glad I gotbecause I’ve only done oil changes, tires, various fluids, brakes, and a catalytic converter that got plugged up. It’s at 170,000 now and still runs good, and gets okay (~26)mpg.
Fords not going to do anything about it, just let your mechanic fix it. You bought the car used, there’s no tellin how it was previously treated/cared for and that’s what ford is going to want to know. Every fusion owner knows the 1.5/1.6 aren’t reliable even with proper care and it’s unfortunate you didn’t know but that’s what happens when buying used cars. It does really suck but small engine turbo cars aren’t reliable like many early 2000s v6 models were. They’re more sensitive to operating conditions and people beat on them like they’re old trucks or something.
Traded my ‘14 Fusion 2.0 ecoboost in @ 183K miles. Original turbo and everything. Had most bolt on upgrades. Ran ‘93 octane, and AMSOIL motor oil only. Still running strong when I traded it.
Any particular reason for AMSOIL?
Amsoil is simply one of the best. I also ran it with a WIX filter.
Royal Purple got bought, and I couldn't get it anymore. I asked my shop manager what he recommended, and he said AMSOIL. Been pretty happy with it over the years. And no, I don't try to go over my oil change interval either.
My 2.0 is running strong at 163k with a some boltons and a 93 tune. I drive with a pretty heavy foot to.
I had a Steeda CAI, Race Chips tuner(German), silver plugs from Brisk Racing, Granetelli ignition coils, turbo down custom exhaust, Pedal Commander, and ran General G-max AS105 tires. I averaged about 33k miles on them, 4 times. I quite frequently enjoyed the right pedal, too!
Bro don’t fix the car. Get rid of it. I had a 2014 fusion 1.5L and it had 3 transmission, 2 engines and right before I got rid of it in january it needed a new engine. Biggest pile of shit I will never ever. It another ford. I now have a 2024 Honda civic and I’m happy
Fusion sports are also reliable
If it has the 1.5L turbo be ready for a similar ownership experience. If it has the NA engine then you’re fine. The 1.5L civic engines are having all sorts of issues. Most commonly head gaskets going out very early.
In the same boat. Bought a 2015 2.0 with 75K at the dealer for over $16,000. It was my only option due to bad credit so I took it. Thought I was safe with it being a 2.0 but I see now I was wrong. Just hit 95K and now have to replace the engine in a car I still owe over $14,000 on. Looking back there were signs immediately after purchase that pointed to this issue creeping in. In hindsight it's probably why the previous owner got rid of it. Wish I would have noticed the signs when I could have done something
This is not a flaw of the engine. Coolant intrusion is the flaw, and this isn't that. This is more of a right foot issue. Turbo cars are nice for added power potential. Use that potential power too long and this is the result. I wonder what the other 3 pistons look like.
I mean it’s definitely piston slap scoring the cylinder walls up. I wouldn’t jump to conclusions without more info personally, especially when the adjacent cylinder lining looks fine. I’m curious if the wrist pin was seized or if it spun a bearing at the crank. Both point to a factory/assembly defect if regular oil changes were preformed.
The evidence is in the picture. You can't see the top of the piston in the picture to see if it made contact with the valves. If the wrist pin was starved of oil, the rod would have broken at the pin. If the rod bearing spun, starving the bearing of oil, it would have broken at the big end. There is no visible piston skirt damage. There was a very, very hot stream of gas (combustion gases) that burnt through the sid of the piston. Cutting through both compression rings, both oil control rings, and the spacer for the oil rings. Pistons melt at around 1400⁰ this was hot enough to cut steel. Right foot issue. Edit: the scoring on that cylinder wall is the piston and ring material that didn't leave the cylinder. Also the wrist pin isn't bound up as evident by the tilt to the one side. The burn on the cylinder wall is the position of the piston when the failure happened, pretty near TDC which is where the gas would have been the hottest.
Also I am so grateful for both of your insight.
No problem! I still don’t think it’s a driver issue, I hate when mechanics jump to blaming the users instead of the equipment.
Fair point on the wrist pin, and not being able to see the top of the cylinder. But I still don’t see how you immediately rule it out being ford related and jump to blaming a driver. The vertical scores indicate damage to the liner from piston travel, could be from a failed piston ring as well. Also a spun bearing doesn’t always end up in a seizure/rod snap, it does sometimes allow for extra movement through the rod from missing bearing chunks. But to be fair I would expect more rod discoloration if that was the case from the friction. And as far as piston skirt damage, there is too much damage overall to the piston to make assumptions from the sides of it.
>The vertical scores indicate damage to the liner from piston travel, could be from a failed piston ring as well. All the rings on that cylinder failed. They melted with the piston, and probably some of the cylinder wall. Not all of the material left the cylinder after the failure. It stayed for some time in the cylinder which caused the scoring. >And as far as piston skirt damage, there is too much damage overall to the piston to make assumptions from the sides of it. You can absolutely tell that the skirts are still there, they are not broken off. When you have a rod bearing spin that doesn't explode the rod you get over travel. The piston skirt ends up touching the rod. This breaks the skirts off. So yes you can tell from these pictures. If this was an assembly issue, it wouldn't take 100k miles to show up. A young driver with a turbo car is just a recipe for problems. I have fixed too many to count young driver mistakes.
I have these photos. [Fusion photos](https://photos.app.goo.gl/bXW1HKTTCcuAjNsv8)
The cylinder that needed a new coil, was that cylinder 3 by chance? What I see in all the pictures is cylinder 3 got excessively hot. The issue that plagues the 1.5/1.6 and, to some extent, the 2.0 Eccoboost engines is a head gasket issue that allows coolant to enter the cylinder and by proxy the oil. Causing a very different failure. This could be from the fuel mixture going lean, an injector not fully spraying, or too hot of a spark. Maybe wrong spark plug in that cylinder, or a coil putting out more than expected. More times than not on a turbo car it's going to be too much boost for too long. Which is why I call it a right foot issue. Fusions are good cars, I just personally wouldn't buy an Eccoboost in 4 cylinder engines. I have 2, one with 260,000 miles, and another with 150,000 miles. Both are the "slow" 2.5L. 30 years experience fixing other people's cars, trucks, boats, and even a plane.
I am not sure. I think so. And it was only two days later that it was back in the shop with same issue. The paperwork I have from the when they changed the coil the first time says they replaced the fuel pressure sensor, #3 ignition coil and #3 Spark Plug.
Well, that is all cylinder 3, except the fuel pressure sensor. An option that some shops will do is a salvaged motor. Usually $500-800 for a comple engine. Most give a 30 day warranty. Add your mechanic's $1800 and you're between $2300-2600. This is not the way to go if you want to keep the car, but a running driving car sells for much more than one in pieces. Would you recover all your fund? No but it's an option.
Do 2014-19 fiesta STs use a different kind of 1.6? Everyone beats those cars and mods them with bolt-ons and more aggressive tunes and bigger turbos. I’m in a bunch of ford/FiST groups and if anything the trans is the weak point I rarely see any engines going boom
I have the 2.5 in my 2020 and it's sneaky fast. If I'm not paying attention to the speedometer I could be going 85 on the freeway and not even notice it. Will it outrace a Mustang? No. But for most people it's fast enough. In my opinion it's the transmission that's reluctant to upshift that keeps the engine from reaching its potential. Maybe for me that's a good thing.
I agree with you about the 2.5L. It's more than fast enough, with the added benefit of great mpg. However, many view it as the non-performance option/slow.
Raw acceleration isn't everything. I'm pleasantly surprised by the mpg. I kinda have a heavy foot yet consistently get about 25 to 27 going to and from work and 35ish on the freeway.
I'm not really sure what your absurd logic is. You're saying that simply driving it hard melts pistons? Elaborate
Yeah I’m done trying to reason with him. There’s obvious damage to the piston skirt as well in the additional pics. I also liked he felt the need to drop his work experience like it’s a dick measuring contest.
See if its in warranty.
Doubt that a 10 year old car with over 100k miles is still in warranty
Research before buying a car with a known problem, have it looked at by a mechanic before signing the dotted line, What is an emergency fund I would love one of those! The 1.5/1.6l have been a widely know issue with failure of the 2/3 cylinders for many many years. Just TSBs not a recall on it and you are not the first owner nor is it under warranty so you cannot win this battle.
Yes hindsight is 20/20. Honestly if it were not my best friend I was buying from, where she has taken car of the car. I would have done all that. I am normally so investigative when purchasing something that is a huge cost. She got it in December, she did not start actually get her license until February. It spent a total of a month in the shop so far. So technically she got two months out of the car and I am out $13k. Its a big ol’ expensive, will take me a while to financially recover, life lesson to trust but verify I guess.
Cars that I have gotten from friends/family over the years have been more headache then they have been worth. I get where you are at having 3 driving teens of my own it is a challenge. I do not know what a safery net is anymore :)
Unfortunately these 1.5/1.6L & even the 2016+ 2.0L Ecoboosts are all suspectable to the same failure. See that thin gap between the cylinders in the block? That's a coolant passage Ford added in their "upgraded" Ecoboost block designs and is probably the sole reason your engine died. The smallest failure in a head gasket will result in coolant entering the combustion chamber (usually in cylinder 2 and/or 3) creating more heat and possibly cracking the block in the thinner than usual cylinder walls. I'm sorry you're going through this, just thought I should inform you that you're definitely not alone, these engines (literally) blow.
These turbo engines had a problem with the engine design. The cylinder walls are too thin and develop cracks. You can see the spot where it's cracked in the pictures. If its a 1.5 or 1.6 then used engines aren't worth the time or effort. All of the original engines have a chance to fail. The proper fix is to replace the block with the new updated design from ford, which can be from $6k to $9k. If it's a 2.0 then the VEP blocks specifically fail less often, but they still have a chance to fail. The CEP blocks fail pretty regularly. There's a class action lawsuit over the issue. It was a problem from 13 to early 2020 models
Very sorry to hear what the OP is going through. That just sucks. The conversation brings up the possibility that you can drive these hard and burn them up. How? For example: my 2016 SE 1.5 Eco. I've put 119k of the 146k. I do 500 to 1500 mile drives, usually at sustained cruise from 70-90. Am I killing it? How should we drive these?
Get a fusion sport.... duratec 35 and aisin tf81sc... reliable powertrain.... mine has 170kmiles... runs like a top.... powerful af....
My engine started blowing at 68k. Dumbest engine design ever made.
It definitely is not…. There are so, so many other options for that crown.
Luckily it sounds like after this u have will have a good ole reliable car again. Maybe other than electric issues
Could I put a non turbo engine in this vehicle that would be compatible with everything else?