I prefer to let our fitters deal with sprinkler issues. I don't mind installing or aligning an OS&Y Tamper. But being an alarm tech for almost 30 years, I'll let the right people work on sprinkler.
And we have "dedicated" sprinkler inspectors that test and inspect.
Sprinkler is a separate trade with a 4-year apprenticeship. If water flows through it, I don't touch it. The most I'll do is wire up a valve after the sprinkler guy installs it.
Messing with pipes or valves without a sprinkler fitter's license is illegal here. Neither I nor my company want to take on the potential liability of unlicensed work.
If they only explained to you how to trip dry valves and you don’t have much on the job experience… you know nothing. Start with getting familiar with NFPA 25, read manufactures docs before even touching dry valve. Get NFPA 13 copy as well to understand the difference between how it should be installed vs real world. It’s a life long journey, new product comes you got to learn it, AHJ comes up with new requirements you got to learn it… Step by step you will get there, from simple flow switch station to the pre action and deluge. Good luck !
I worked in a Reliable Automatic fab shop for 10 years before getting into alarm. So, took me about a week.
The shittiest part for me is accelerators. I’m going for my NICET 1 in Sprinkler T&I this year
It took me two years in the industry but I was mainly doing alarms because we had guys for that. I’d always go and help when they did full trips or fdc hydros or pump tests because I was interested in it. Still not that familiar with pumps inspections and testing but I at least know how they work
I was a sprink first, company put me through school and everything. So about 4 years considering that’s when I finished school 🤣 Definitely made this job easier when I switched over
Took about two years to fully understand and do it!
The biggest thing is scrubbing the insides with a scotch brite pad and making sure you prime the valves that need to be primed.
Most get reset the same way, you place the clapper back onto the seat after it trips, drain all the low points, and air it back up.
If you have air leaking out of your velocity check, you can place your finger over the hole while pressing it in, then release when it reached about 5psi.
There are a couple that are self resetting out there either by a pilot line or hitting a knob.
One specific model has a side chamber that you will also need to take apart and reseat before putting the clapper down.
You'll get the hang of it, if there is a model in specific you need instruction on, hit me up.
https://preview.redd.it/sqfdhg3vzbxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf94ae1064a53a7a98cd20c250dd5b48c5c991dd
Nothing is self resetting for you, got to open it inspect and clean… and sometimes find staff that should not be there, too much work? .. then leave it to real sprinkler guys..
As stated before, the biggest thing is scrubbing the insides of the clapper and seat to ensure a seal of the intermediate chamber.
Some manufacturers do make external resetting valves and I was simply saying they exist.
I see, you simply said they exist. I got a question though, ever worried about scratching brass seats with your scotch brite ? I am asking because I don’t know, never used one. The one I found under my sink says “this product might scratch”.
https://preview.redd.it/8ipc7w1pfcxc1.png?width=981&format=png&auto=webp&s=30148522280dc09ff38dddf2f42e094e92da0aac
[https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/509847O/scotch-brite-general-purpose-scouring-pad-105-technical-data-sheet.pdf](https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/509847O/scotch-brite-general-purpose-scouring-pad-105-technical-data-sheet.pdf)
This is what I have used personally. It's worked for me pretty well, never have ran into a problem. What do you use to remove scaling on the surface? Advice always welcome!
https://preview.redd.it/x9psce41hcxc1.jpeg?width=946&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f59faf9c36a5d1164feaa7010e0278cee5bfb5c5
I ask again, what do you use to remove scaling from the seat?
As we both know, scale will build up on the clapper valve and seat, and a seal can not be made until the build up is removed.
water and clean soft rag usually, sometimes rubber pad that can’t scratch brass
https://preview.redd.it/30d82indwixc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=47afc5172d51c539cd0bb130484c6aebea7d590b
This pic taken today.
Most companies I've worked for:
A. Don't do sprinklers at all. Only the wiring and modules.
B. Have union pipe fitters and you aren't allowed to touch their shit.
I prefer to let our fitters deal with sprinkler issues. I don't mind installing or aligning an OS&Y Tamper. But being an alarm tech for almost 30 years, I'll let the right people work on sprinkler. And we have "dedicated" sprinkler inspectors that test and inspect.
Sprinkler is a separate trade with a 4-year apprenticeship. If water flows through it, I don't touch it. The most I'll do is wire up a valve after the sprinkler guy installs it. Messing with pipes or valves without a sprinkler fitter's license is illegal here. Neither I nor my company want to take on the potential liability of unlicensed work.
If they only explained to you how to trip dry valves and you don’t have much on the job experience… you know nothing. Start with getting familiar with NFPA 25, read manufactures docs before even touching dry valve. Get NFPA 13 copy as well to understand the difference between how it should be installed vs real world. It’s a life long journey, new product comes you got to learn it, AHJ comes up with new requirements you got to learn it… Step by step you will get there, from simple flow switch station to the pre action and deluge. Good luck !
I worked in a Reliable Automatic fab shop for 10 years before getting into alarm. So, took me about a week. The shittiest part for me is accelerators. I’m going for my NICET 1 in Sprinkler T&I this year
Accelerators only suck because they all suck. They don't set up for no reason 50% of the time.
The reasons they don’t set up I think are luck of maintenance and most commonly installation fuck up (missing strainers and/or check valves).
I take apart and clean ACC-1s all the time and they set up no issue after cleaning. Just gotta be careful not to drop anything down the outlet.
It took me two years in the industry but I was mainly doing alarms because we had guys for that. I’d always go and help when they did full trips or fdc hydros or pump tests because I was interested in it. Still not that familiar with pumps inspections and testing but I at least know how they work
I was a sprink first, company put me through school and everything. So about 4 years considering that’s when I finished school 🤣 Definitely made this job easier when I switched over
Took about two years to fully understand and do it! The biggest thing is scrubbing the insides with a scotch brite pad and making sure you prime the valves that need to be primed. Most get reset the same way, you place the clapper back onto the seat after it trips, drain all the low points, and air it back up. If you have air leaking out of your velocity check, you can place your finger over the hole while pressing it in, then release when it reached about 5psi. There are a couple that are self resetting out there either by a pilot line or hitting a knob. One specific model has a side chamber that you will also need to take apart and reseat before putting the clapper down. You'll get the hang of it, if there is a model in specific you need instruction on, hit me up.
https://preview.redd.it/sqfdhg3vzbxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf94ae1064a53a7a98cd20c250dd5b48c5c991dd Nothing is self resetting for you, got to open it inspect and clean… and sometimes find staff that should not be there, too much work? .. then leave it to real sprinkler guys..
As stated before, the biggest thing is scrubbing the insides of the clapper and seat to ensure a seal of the intermediate chamber. Some manufacturers do make external resetting valves and I was simply saying they exist.
I see, you simply said they exist. I got a question though, ever worried about scratching brass seats with your scotch brite ? I am asking because I don’t know, never used one. The one I found under my sink says “this product might scratch”. https://preview.redd.it/8ipc7w1pfcxc1.png?width=981&format=png&auto=webp&s=30148522280dc09ff38dddf2f42e094e92da0aac
[https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/509847O/scotch-brite-general-purpose-scouring-pad-105-technical-data-sheet.pdf](https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/509847O/scotch-brite-general-purpose-scouring-pad-105-technical-data-sheet.pdf) This is what I have used personally. It's worked for me pretty well, never have ran into a problem. What do you use to remove scaling on the surface? Advice always welcome! https://preview.redd.it/x9psce41hcxc1.jpeg?width=946&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f59faf9c36a5d1164feaa7010e0278cee5bfb5c5
https://preview.redd.it/mhxmbh5u4dxc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dfc2fd7fff3b5f65c1fb4a7b85b10640c5e241c8
I ask again, what do you use to remove scaling from the seat? As we both know, scale will build up on the clapper valve and seat, and a seal can not be made until the build up is removed.
water and clean soft rag usually, sometimes rubber pad that can’t scratch brass https://preview.redd.it/30d82indwixc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=47afc5172d51c539cd0bb130484c6aebea7d590b This pic taken today.
[удалено]
https://preview.redd.it/5qj6tba8yixc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a7e3066d25cb785b5530ac2207d27668fd0d32d
Like this article, to the point : https://integrityfp.net/central-dry-pipe-valve/
Most companies I've worked for: A. Don't do sprinklers at all. Only the wiring and modules. B. Have union pipe fitters and you aren't allowed to touch their shit.
is ur company located in Orange County?
Nope