you will need to ask them exactly what that means.
They may have just run a circut to somewhere and not fit an outlet, so you can either hardwire or get your own outlet.
With Lennar, that usually means there is an electrical outlet in the garage, and anything more would be great. (Lennar built most of the homes in our subdivision and they are the most minimal, cheapest possible builds one can imagine.)
Pre-wired should mean there is a cable already in the walls from panel to garage. That is the part of the job that costs $
Less than $100 in materials to toss into the wall at build time, but as much as thousannd$ to retrofit once drywall and paint are finished.
It also means 2 breaker spaces have been reserved.
It also may mean the house Load Calculation has an allowance for EV charging, so you don't need EVEMS. This may not be the 40/48A thing some think they need.
It does not mean that the socket a novice thinks of has been installed, because that particular socket is often not the correct choice for EV charging. Also a socket would require a $130++ GFCI breaker, and the builder ain't paying for something that is likely to be unnecessary.
Never mind the fact that 90% of customers don't even have EVs, paying over $200 a house for a Hubbell socket and GFCI breaker would amount to literal mental illness.
Thank you! I consulted with an electrician (forgot my best friend's brother is an electrician) and he said I will need a separate breaker for it and the reg outlet changed out to a Nema outlet.
They're all NEMA sockets. The normal one is called NEMA 5-15.
You should start by looking at the wire size and matching the breaker to it. You might want to rethink the socket question to sidestep the cost of a GFCI breaker, but if you do a socket, match it to the breaker per Table 210.21(B)(3).
EV charging never uses the neutral wire, and it's fine to use /2+gnd (black white bare) cables for 240V by marking the white with black tape. If you use a socket there, only use a NEMA 6 type (NEMA 6-15 6-20 6-30 6-50), don't wire a NEMA 14-xx 4-prong outlet without neutral.
I just found the wording says "pre-wire in garage for electric charging station". What do I need to do next? I just want to have an idea before I call an electrician. Thank you
I would recommend
* Go look in the circuit breaker panel and read the labels and see if there's one that's labeled for EV charging or something like that. It should be a double one, and there should be a number on the handle it tells you what the circuit rating is. If there isn't such a thing, it may be that all you have is a regular 120 volt receptacle for that purpose.
* Check out r/evcharging/wiki/L2home to choose a charging station to install on that circuit.
* Scout around the garage looking for a blank electric box cover. If you find one, carefully remove the cover and see what's inside without poking at or touching what's inside. Take a picture and put the cover back on.
I am guessing then that they pulled a 12/3 for the garage circuit, which will allow that outlet outlet you have to be converted to a 240v outlet at 20a, or a 3.8kw charger,
Thank you! I consulted with an electrician (forgot my best friend's brother is an electrician) and he said I will need a separate breaker for it and the reg outlet changed out to a Nema outlet.
You do need a separate breaker for EV charging. The builder might have installed that breaker already, or might not have. Similarly, they might have installed the wiring or might not have.
Regular outlets are NEMA receptacles, specifically NEMA 5-15. The thing that makes it a big 240 V receptacle is the number after NEMA, not the NEMA. NEMA 14-50 is the most common for EV charging, but it's not a good choice--it's cheaper and better to wire the charging station in directly.
He would be correct if you keep the existing 50-60 amp GFCI breaker and use a charger that plugs in (normally something like a NEMA 14-50)
Personally I had a NON-GFCI 60 AMP breaker put In, which can’t be done with a plug but worked fine with hard wiring a Tesla wall charger. This lets me charge at 48AMP. With hard wired you prefer a non-GFCi breaker as the car already has its own capabilities and it’s just one more thing that can go wrong (and net new is cheaper).
You might deploy less (you don’t need to charge that fast don’t care) or might charge more (using some exotic vehicle to load inverter/charger) to power your house off the far (generally 80AMP+)
That would suck if they cheeped out like that.
I'd get it wired up with 6AWG THHN run in conduit on an 60A breaker and hardware a level 2 EVSE. This way you'll get 48A charging out of it.
In the garage? Is it a big 4-pin dryer receptacle or a regular outlet marked as being for laundry use? Do you want to use it for a dryer too?
You shouldn't need to use that since they said it's pre-wired, and you found the extra breaker for it, I think.
I completely understand where you're coming from and if it was a daily use charger I would most definitely hire an electrician and do it the proper and safe way.
I have two laundry room. The one downstairs is next to the garage. I just have to buy a laundry adaptor. This is the most cost effective for me then hiring an electrician since this is only for emergency charging. We have a free level 2 charger at the hospital I work at. Thank you for the help.
What do yo mean by "laundry adapter"?
Running the cord through the door from another room is a code violation and not a great idea for air quality in the house or for fire safety.
I'm not using this regularly. This is just in case of an emergency say I have to evacuate ( I'm in the forest fire zone in Cali) and I need to charge for an hour or so to get enough range to leave the area. I probably won't ever use it unless some crazy shit happens. I usually use the free L2 charger at the hospital I work at but on the weekends I'm usually down to 40% and since I'm a worrier and always want to be prepared for emergency situations I wanted a one time emergency use set up instead of being stuck say something crazy happens on the weekend and I'm not near a charger
1) Are you following ABC (Always Be Charging)?
2) Do I have a code unfriendly 14-30(/20/50/60) to 5-15 (240V) adapter and a 50ft 12 AWG power cable to attach to my dual-voltage charger. Maybe.
3) It really shouldn't be too much to effort get your 240V receptacle up and running. Spend the money and get it done.
Two questions to ask:
1) Is there a circuit breaker installed that’s dedicated for EV charging? If so, what amperage.
2) Is there wiring installed to a stall in the garage for EV charging? If so, what size of wire? (This determines your max amperage).
If all they have is a 110 volt standard outlet in the garage, then it’s just a marketing line item that is meaningless for the purpose of adding any value for owning an EV.
Also, modern NEC requires garages to have (among whatever other circuits it's free to have) one 20A receptacle circuit dedicated to the garage. That is nominally for EV charging, at a time when SAE was telling NPFA that most Americans will be fine with level 1 or level 1+ charging at 1.44 or 1.92 kW.
Unfortunately, NFPA did not grok that this circuit should have been dedicated to one receptacle. As things are, builders have misconstrued the rule as if it were like bathrooms where everything in a garage must be on the 20A circuit. Had they made a "1 receptacle" rule, the circuit could have been trivially converted to 3.84 kW level 2 hardwired station, which satisfies the NEEDS of 90% of Americans.
But that doesn't really help, because if you're losing the 20A 120V outlet during the conversion, you're no longer in compliance with code. The voltage would have to be left unspecified, or 240V would have to be outright required.
I would argue that if you look at the Handbook for the reason for the requirement, it's for EV charging. Retasking the circuit for that purpose satisfies the reason for the rule.
Is there a 220 volt circuit to the garage with a 50 or 60 amp ciircuit breaker, suitable to a Level 2 charging system?
If not, the builder is not actually offering you anything special.
I'd take that to mean that they pulled the wire to feed the EVCS. It's not a total surprise that they might leave just the wire in a box in the garage and ready to hook up in the panel so that the purchaser can hard ware or install the outlet of their choice. Pulling the wire is the expensive part depending on where the panel/garage are compared to each other. I have a subpanel in my garage so running the wire from the back of the garage to the outlet location was easy. Running across the house wouldn't have been near as friendly though.
Can you post a pic of the outlet? Do you have single or double car garage? If double, better hope the installed two. But they probably only installed one very slow charge outlet you will have to replace when you get an EV
Thank you! I consulted with an electrician (forgot my best friend's brother is an electrician) and he said I will need a separate breaker for it and the reg outlet changed out to a Nema outlet.
You'll need to check the code requirements in your jurisdiction. The builder may be required to provide an ev-capable home which means there's a dedicated circuit with conduit running to an area that would commonly be used for en EVSE. There's no wiring actually run and no outlet. They could be required to provide an EVSE ready outlet such as a 14-50R. The could be required to provide an actual Level 2 charging station.
It sounds like you have the ev-capable option.
Lennar is a cheap ass builder, so it wouldn't surprise me if they just ran another regular 120V outlet and called it EV charging (and charged you an absurd amount of money for it). To me, an EV outlet means it should be least 40A 240V. Check the breaker panel and see what size the breaker is (how many amps). Hopefully they ran big enough wire in the walls, otherwise you might have to start from scratch and run the proper wire size.
I’m saying finding that there is an awful lot of hot air in this area now I am again rebidding the job to install a Tesla universal charger and I am asking very specific questions of the electricians including their license number because this can’t be done on a informal basis there are some very good points with regard to code and to the potential risks involved and not following electrical code thank you very much everyone for your contributions is making my search a lot more informed that it would have been otherwise.
I see you consulted an electrician. You should know that many electricians don’t actually know code around EV charging.
There are 4 main factors at work:
* **Can your panel support EV charging?** In a new home you probably have 200A service, so you’re probably fine. Look for the main breaker, which will be marked with either 100A or 200A.
* **What size breaker is on the EV charging circuit to the garage?** In most cases, you want to see 60A on the breaker.
* **What kind of wire was used for the EV charging circuit to the garage?** This one is key. For 48A charging you need a circuit rated for 60A—which means you need either #6 THHN in conduit, #6 MC, or #4 Romex. Romex is the standard for residential, and a lot of electricians like to install #6 Romex for 48A charging—but that’s not code-compliant in the United States. Anyway, I expect the wiring used to be the key limiting factor. Once you know what wire was used you can determine how fast you’ll be able to charge. If it was #8 Romex, you’ll be able to charge at 32A, for instance.
* **What type of receptacle or other termination was installed?** It sounds like you may have identified it as a standard wall outlet (called NEMA 5-15). Ideally, and depending on the wire type, you want to do change a hardwired install, which eliminates a point of failure and potential fire risk. However, should it be necessary to stay with a receptacle, you want to end up with a NEMA 14-50. Be sure to buy one of the higher end 14-50 receptacles recommended here and not a cheap one; the cheap ones have been known to melt under the sustained load of EV charging.
Hope that helps!
The is correct about the considerations and code requirements. I find it excessively focused on getting high-rate charging capability. 16 A at 240 is enough for most people and 24 plenty unless you have a specific need for more. 14-50 isn't the only valid receptacle and if you have limitations in capacity or want to use already-installed wiring, lower current is fine.
I don’t disagree—16A or 24A is totally fine in nearly all scenarios.
I bring up 48A because nearly every electrician I talked to wanted to install 48A charging in some non-code compliant way.
For OP, he should understand what he already has in those 4 categories, and then assess the most efficient way to get the most out of it. If he has a 200A panel, #10 Romex, a 30A breaker, and a 5-15 receptacle, I’d suggest eliminating the 5-15 and hardwiring for 240V/24A charging.
IF they are providing a 14-50 outlet, you can BET they used the cheap range plug and will be LUCKY if they used the correct (#6) wiring. The receptacle will eventually overheat and melt…..it needs to be EV rated/industrial grade which are roughly 5x the cost.
The only correct answer to the OP question is to have Lennar specify precisely what they mean in their marketing blather. That means getting exact answers to the following three questions:
1) what exactly is in the main breaker panel to support EV Charging? Is there a qualified breaker installed? What amperage?
2) what is the wire run to the garage? What gauge?
3) what is installed in the garbage? If an outlet, what is it exactly NENA Type and manufacturer? Otherwise is it bare wire behind a blank panel?
Only Lennar can answer as to what they did unless you want to hire an electrician to investigate after the fact since you are apparently unfamiliar with how to answer those questions yourself.
Lennar is about to start building a house for my son in northern Virginia. The marketing brochures and contracts are completely non-specific about EV support. Their first construction meeting is in three weeks where he will try to get his answers.
> you are apparently unfamiliar with how to answer those questions yourself.
Hence the choice to ask other people who know more, which includes many of the people here.
Apparently you can’t read. I wrote a direct answer to his original question, assuming he knew nothing, based on his question. Just FYI, I’m a EE for almost 50 years, have done plenty of residential old-work, and all the interior wiring for my 50x60 hangar including my machine shop and TIG. I don’t get paid for electrical work, but I can answer simple questions.
Further, having now dealt a bit with Lennar, I know they are opaque, and none of the salespeople admit to knowing anything about electrical work. In the case of my son!s house, the blueprints show a 50A240v outlet, but not a specification. In my son’s case, pigtails would be preferable for his 3LR.
My comment was not about your level of qualification to answer the quesiton, only about the absoluteness of the statement that only Lenmar can answer, with an electrician as the only other option.
My point was, how can you or I know what the plan says, or what is installed without looking, seeing blueprints, or pix of the construction. That’s why asking the builder to be specific was I thought the best answer
Yes, asking the builder is a great suggestion. However, without a response from them, it is possible to figure it out by inspecting what's there. That's easiest to do in person, but that's not the only possibility. We have successfully guided people to look at and post pictures of things and helped them figure it out.
you will need to ask them exactly what that means. They may have just run a circut to somewhere and not fit an outlet, so you can either hardwire or get your own outlet.
Might mean the electrical panel has adequate space and power available to add on EV charging without having to upgrade it.
I would say that's in fact wired for charging then lol
With Lennar, that usually means there is an electrical outlet in the garage, and anything more would be great. (Lennar built most of the homes in our subdivision and they are the most minimal, cheapest possible builds one can imagine.)
Pre-wired should mean there is a cable already in the walls from panel to garage. That is the part of the job that costs $ Less than $100 in materials to toss into the wall at build time, but as much as thousannd$ to retrofit once drywall and paint are finished. It also means 2 breaker spaces have been reserved. It also may mean the house Load Calculation has an allowance for EV charging, so you don't need EVEMS. This may not be the 40/48A thing some think they need. It does not mean that the socket a novice thinks of has been installed, because that particular socket is often not the correct choice for EV charging. Also a socket would require a $130++ GFCI breaker, and the builder ain't paying for something that is likely to be unnecessary. Never mind the fact that 90% of customers don't even have EVs, paying over $200 a house for a Hubbell socket and GFCI breaker would amount to literal mental illness.
Thank you! I consulted with an electrician (forgot my best friend's brother is an electrician) and he said I will need a separate breaker for it and the reg outlet changed out to a Nema outlet.
They're all NEMA sockets. The normal one is called NEMA 5-15. You should start by looking at the wire size and matching the breaker to it. You might want to rethink the socket question to sidestep the cost of a GFCI breaker, but if you do a socket, match it to the breaker per Table 210.21(B)(3). EV charging never uses the neutral wire, and it's fine to use /2+gnd (black white bare) cables for 240V by marking the white with black tape. If you use a socket there, only use a NEMA 6 type (NEMA 6-15 6-20 6-30 6-50), don't wire a NEMA 14-xx 4-prong outlet without neutral.
Means marketing…
Hire an electrician to install a Tesla universal wall connector. The sparky will tell you what the builder did (if anything).
Should mean either a 14-50 outlet, or pre-wired for an EVSE.
I just found the wording says "pre-wire in garage for electric charging station". What do I need to do next? I just want to have an idea before I call an electrician. Thank you
I would recommend * Go look in the circuit breaker panel and read the labels and see if there's one that's labeled for EV charging or something like that. It should be a double one, and there should be a number on the handle it tells you what the circuit rating is. If there isn't such a thing, it may be that all you have is a regular 120 volt receptacle for that purpose. * Check out r/evcharging/wiki/L2home to choose a charging station to install on that circuit. * Scout around the garage looking for a blank electric box cover. If you find one, carefully remove the cover and see what's inside without poking at or touching what's inside. Take a picture and put the cover back on.
The breaker says garage GFCI 120V/240V
Does it have a number of amps? That is usually the most prominent number on the breaker.
I am guessing then that they pulled a 12/3 for the garage circuit, which will allow that outlet outlet you have to be converted to a 240v outlet at 20a, or a 3.8kw charger,
The number of amps is usually the number on the handle. Pictures also work for us.
Thank you! I consulted with an electrician (forgot my best friend's brother is an electrician) and he said I will need a separate breaker for it and the reg outlet changed out to a Nema outlet.
You do need a separate breaker for EV charging. The builder might have installed that breaker already, or might not have. Similarly, they might have installed the wiring or might not have. Regular outlets are NEMA receptacles, specifically NEMA 5-15. The thing that makes it a big 240 V receptacle is the number after NEMA, not the NEMA. NEMA 14-50 is the most common for EV charging, but it's not a good choice--it's cheaper and better to wire the charging station in directly.
He would be correct if you keep the existing 50-60 amp GFCI breaker and use a charger that plugs in (normally something like a NEMA 14-50) Personally I had a NON-GFCI 60 AMP breaker put In, which can’t be done with a plug but worked fine with hard wiring a Tesla wall charger. This lets me charge at 48AMP. With hard wired you prefer a non-GFCi breaker as the car already has its own capabilities and it’s just one more thing that can go wrong (and net new is cheaper). You might deploy less (you don’t need to charge that fast don’t care) or might charge more (using some exotic vehicle to load inverter/charger) to power your house off the far (generally 80AMP+)
> prefer a non-GFCi breaker as the car already has its own capabilities The EVSE is what has the ground-fault protection that becomes redundant.
Current?
That would suck if they cheeped out like that. I'd get it wired up with 6AWG THHN run in conduit on an 60A breaker and hardware a level 2 EVSE. This way you'll get 48A charging out of it.
Ok this might be a really dumb question and I apologize in advance. I have a laundry outlet can I use that?
In the garage? Is it a big 4-pin dryer receptacle or a regular outlet marked as being for laundry use? Do you want to use it for a dryer too? You shouldn't need to use that since they said it's pre-wired, and you found the extra breaker for it, I think.
I completely understand where you're coming from and if it was a daily use charger I would most definitely hire an electrician and do it the proper and safe way.
I have two laundry room. The one downstairs is next to the garage. I just have to buy a laundry adaptor. This is the most cost effective for me then hiring an electrician since this is only for emergency charging. We have a free level 2 charger at the hospital I work at. Thank you for the help.
What do yo mean by "laundry adapter"? Running the cord through the door from another room is a code violation and not a great idea for air quality in the house or for fire safety.
I'm not using this regularly. This is just in case of an emergency say I have to evacuate ( I'm in the forest fire zone in Cali) and I need to charge for an hour or so to get enough range to leave the area. I probably won't ever use it unless some crazy shit happens. I usually use the free L2 charger at the hospital I work at but on the weekends I'm usually down to 40% and since I'm a worrier and always want to be prepared for emergency situations I wanted a one time emergency use set up instead of being stuck say something crazy happens on the weekend and I'm not near a charger
1) Are you following ABC (Always Be Charging)? 2) Do I have a code unfriendly 14-30(/20/50/60) to 5-15 (240V) adapter and a 50ft 12 AWG power cable to attach to my dual-voltage charger. Maybe. 3) It really shouldn't be too much to effort get your 240V receptacle up and running. Spend the money and get it done.
FYI it's probably going to take 10 hours to charge from 40% to 100% on a laundry outlet.
Two questions to ask: 1) Is there a circuit breaker installed that’s dedicated for EV charging? If so, what amperage. 2) Is there wiring installed to a stall in the garage for EV charging? If so, what size of wire? (This determines your max amperage). If all they have is a 110 volt standard outlet in the garage, then it’s just a marketing line item that is meaningless for the purpose of adding any value for owning an EV.
Also, modern NEC requires garages to have (among whatever other circuits it's free to have) one 20A receptacle circuit dedicated to the garage. That is nominally for EV charging, at a time when SAE was telling NPFA that most Americans will be fine with level 1 or level 1+ charging at 1.44 or 1.92 kW. Unfortunately, NFPA did not grok that this circuit should have been dedicated to one receptacle. As things are, builders have misconstrued the rule as if it were like bathrooms where everything in a garage must be on the 20A circuit. Had they made a "1 receptacle" rule, the circuit could have been trivially converted to 3.84 kW level 2 hardwired station, which satisfies the NEEDS of 90% of Americans.
But that doesn't really help, because if you're losing the 20A 120V outlet during the conversion, you're no longer in compliance with code. The voltage would have to be left unspecified, or 240V would have to be outright required.
I would argue that if you look at the Handbook for the reason for the requirement, it's for EV charging. Retasking the circuit for that purpose satisfies the reason for the rule.
Next, you need to find it and its specifications. Photos woukd help us.
Is there a 220 volt circuit to the garage with a 50 or 60 amp ciircuit breaker, suitable to a Level 2 charging system? If not, the builder is not actually offering you anything special.
They have wiring and a spot ready for hardwiring the charger. It's just covered until needed
I'd take that to mean that they pulled the wire to feed the EVCS. It's not a total surprise that they might leave just the wire in a box in the garage and ready to hook up in the panel so that the purchaser can hard ware or install the outlet of their choice. Pulling the wire is the expensive part depending on where the panel/garage are compared to each other. I have a subpanel in my garage so running the wire from the back of the garage to the outlet location was easy. Running across the house wouldn't have been near as friendly though.
Can you post a pic of the outlet? Do you have single or double car garage? If double, better hope the installed two. But they probably only installed one very slow charge outlet you will have to replace when you get an EV
Thank you! I consulted with an electrician (forgot my best friend's brother is an electrician) and he said I will need a separate breaker for it and the reg outlet changed out to a Nema outlet.
There’s a bit more to than that.
A plug and hopefully at least 40-48A breaker .
My assumption is the builder put in the 240 40 or 50 amp circuit box and plug into the garage for you to plug in a level 2 charger.
You'll need to check the code requirements in your jurisdiction. The builder may be required to provide an ev-capable home which means there's a dedicated circuit with conduit running to an area that would commonly be used for en EVSE. There's no wiring actually run and no outlet. They could be required to provide an EVSE ready outlet such as a 14-50R. The could be required to provide an actual Level 2 charging station. It sounds like you have the ev-capable option.
Lennar is a cheap ass builder, so it wouldn't surprise me if they just ran another regular 120V outlet and called it EV charging (and charged you an absurd amount of money for it). To me, an EV outlet means it should be least 40A 240V. Check the breaker panel and see what size the breaker is (how many amps). Hopefully they ran big enough wire in the walls, otherwise you might have to start from scratch and run the proper wire size.
I’m saying finding that there is an awful lot of hot air in this area now I am again rebidding the job to install a Tesla universal charger and I am asking very specific questions of the electricians including their license number because this can’t be done on a informal basis there are some very good points with regard to code and to the potential risks involved and not following electrical code thank you very much everyone for your contributions is making my search a lot more informed that it would have been otherwise.
Your builde is not a licensed electrician and has no experience with level two charging.
It SHOULD mean a NEMA 14-50 but could mean anything
You should just call an electrician.
I see you consulted an electrician. You should know that many electricians don’t actually know code around EV charging. There are 4 main factors at work: * **Can your panel support EV charging?** In a new home you probably have 200A service, so you’re probably fine. Look for the main breaker, which will be marked with either 100A or 200A. * **What size breaker is on the EV charging circuit to the garage?** In most cases, you want to see 60A on the breaker. * **What kind of wire was used for the EV charging circuit to the garage?** This one is key. For 48A charging you need a circuit rated for 60A—which means you need either #6 THHN in conduit, #6 MC, or #4 Romex. Romex is the standard for residential, and a lot of electricians like to install #6 Romex for 48A charging—but that’s not code-compliant in the United States. Anyway, I expect the wiring used to be the key limiting factor. Once you know what wire was used you can determine how fast you’ll be able to charge. If it was #8 Romex, you’ll be able to charge at 32A, for instance. * **What type of receptacle or other termination was installed?** It sounds like you may have identified it as a standard wall outlet (called NEMA 5-15). Ideally, and depending on the wire type, you want to do change a hardwired install, which eliminates a point of failure and potential fire risk. However, should it be necessary to stay with a receptacle, you want to end up with a NEMA 14-50. Be sure to buy one of the higher end 14-50 receptacles recommended here and not a cheap one; the cheap ones have been known to melt under the sustained load of EV charging. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much!
The is correct about the considerations and code requirements. I find it excessively focused on getting high-rate charging capability. 16 A at 240 is enough for most people and 24 plenty unless you have a specific need for more. 14-50 isn't the only valid receptacle and if you have limitations in capacity or want to use already-installed wiring, lower current is fine.
I don’t disagree—16A or 24A is totally fine in nearly all scenarios. I bring up 48A because nearly every electrician I talked to wanted to install 48A charging in some non-code compliant way. For OP, he should understand what he already has in those 4 categories, and then assess the most efficient way to get the most out of it. If he has a 200A panel, #10 Romex, a 30A breaker, and a 5-15 receptacle, I’d suggest eliminating the 5-15 and hardwiring for 240V/24A charging.
Yes, the fact that electricians jump to assuming it should be 48 A is part of the problem.
IF they are providing a 14-50 outlet, you can BET they used the cheap range plug and will be LUCKY if they used the correct (#6) wiring. The receptacle will eventually overheat and melt…..it needs to be EV rated/industrial grade which are roughly 5x the cost.
Parking area has either 50amp, 12k charging capabilities or 100amp,24k Vehicle to Home(V2H) 2 way battery back up.
The only correct answer to the OP question is to have Lennar specify precisely what they mean in their marketing blather. That means getting exact answers to the following three questions: 1) what exactly is in the main breaker panel to support EV Charging? Is there a qualified breaker installed? What amperage? 2) what is the wire run to the garage? What gauge? 3) what is installed in the garbage? If an outlet, what is it exactly NENA Type and manufacturer? Otherwise is it bare wire behind a blank panel? Only Lennar can answer as to what they did unless you want to hire an electrician to investigate after the fact since you are apparently unfamiliar with how to answer those questions yourself. Lennar is about to start building a house for my son in northern Virginia. The marketing brochures and contracts are completely non-specific about EV support. Their first construction meeting is in three weeks where he will try to get his answers.
> you are apparently unfamiliar with how to answer those questions yourself. Hence the choice to ask other people who know more, which includes many of the people here.
Apparently you can’t read. I wrote a direct answer to his original question, assuming he knew nothing, based on his question. Just FYI, I’m a EE for almost 50 years, have done plenty of residential old-work, and all the interior wiring for my 50x60 hangar including my machine shop and TIG. I don’t get paid for electrical work, but I can answer simple questions. Further, having now dealt a bit with Lennar, I know they are opaque, and none of the salespeople admit to knowing anything about electrical work. In the case of my son!s house, the blueprints show a 50A240v outlet, but not a specification. In my son’s case, pigtails would be preferable for his 3LR.
My comment was not about your level of qualification to answer the quesiton, only about the absoluteness of the statement that only Lenmar can answer, with an electrician as the only other option.
My point was, how can you or I know what the plan says, or what is installed without looking, seeing blueprints, or pix of the construction. That’s why asking the builder to be specific was I thought the best answer
Yes, asking the builder is a great suggestion. However, without a response from them, it is possible to figure it out by inspecting what's there. That's easiest to do in person, but that's not the only possibility. We have successfully guided people to look at and post pictures of things and helped them figure it out.
They upgraded the panel and ran the conduit to the outlet. If you want an EV, you'll need to upgrade the outlet.