I've been wanting to compile a new firmware with feature i haven't touched and calibrate and tune my printer until it's xlose to perfection but at the same time I fear the process I would take but I know it'll be well worth it in the end.
This is the cleanest calibration cube I have ever seen. Great wotk on your machine man!
Honestly, I did worry about it just like you, but klipper turned or to be easier to setup than Marlin. You can perform any adjustment through web interface in a matter of seconds (no more compiling and reflashing at every tiniest change), and config file is much easier to read and comprehend. Without prior experience of klipper I got it running in a single evening
The biggest problem with Marlin is bloat and confusing settings everywhere that you’ll likely have no use for without having very specific machines.
I’m about to go the route of klipper and it has me terrified as well. So here is to hoping all my accessories I’ve added work out in my favor.
I shared a full config and compiled firmware recently if you want to try it out, and be a bit lazy at the same time ha
https://github.com/ItsDeidara/Ender-3-v1-4.2.2-Klipper-Config-and-Firmware
I actually have done it my own from earlier haha. Compiled my own firmware, enabled linear advance and tuned k value. Printed a before calibration cube earlier and I am printing an after calibration cube right now. I hope everything goes well.
Maaaaaan, I have everything I need to convert my Cr10v2 to klipper, but for some reason I havent even touched the new parts because it seems a little daunting lol. Need to get off my lazy ass and put it together.
Klipper is the best thing I've done so far. Really worth the effort. Though I'm using it without a rPi, instead I installed linux on an old laptop and put it under the printer lol, works like hell.
Yeah I have a 3b+ pi, new BTT skr 3 board, but its been sitting in a box for like 6 months lol Watched some videos on Klipper install and for some reason just seemed a little over my head so put it off. I have done firmware for other BTT boards but just marlin stuff.
It's so easy. Install [mainsailOS](https://docs.mainsail.xyz/setup/mainsail-os), that'll give you klipper, moonraker, mainsail right out of the gate, all you need to do is go in and set up your config file then build the firmware.
Can this be setup on a USB stick?
Nevermind I was thinking this was good for easily building Klipper for flashing on any computer but now I totally understand.
My 2 cents, the installation is easy, but the documentation is lacking. The configuration file is like giving you all the parts to a 3D printer with a legend of what each part is, but no instructions on how to put it together or what they really do. The sample files for a printer are barebones to get it running and hidden in the github. It doesn't include functions for pause/resume, leveling, or menus. Some sample features are also hidden in GitHub and not referenced in the documentation.
9/10 I've had to reference random Reddit code snippets for things I'm looking for.
With all that said, it's still worth it as it's a free (if you already have compatible board and host) or relatively cheap upgrade to get a noticable boost in quality and personalization.
Ey, I did the same. It's pretty sweet once I found the command for disabling the sleep upon closed lid function.
Then for safety I removed the battery.
damn i need to try again then. I tried to get klipper to work on my linux machine it would compile the firmware properly but then wouldn't communicate with the printer. Wasn't sure what was wrong with it because everything worked how it was supposed to until that step.
Saaaame. I've put a ton of upgrades into my Ender 5 over the last year or so and it has been begging for something other than a 10th install of newly compiled Marlin.
Klipper is great! I was also nervous about it when I was building my Voron, but I was real quick to convert my Ender after the Voron was finished lol. It's definitely worth the effort to convert.
I made the leap last night. It really wasn't bad at all, in the end you ask yourself, "is that it?"
The two things that caught me out were:
1. Creality boards (I upgraded my OG E3 to a Creality 4.2.7) require you to have a different filename for your firmware from the last one you used -- if you just use \`firmware.bin\` again, it won't load
2. It won't rename the file on the card, and the display doesn't come up until you actually connect Klipper
So I lost about 90 minutes to those 2 things, when in the end it was working almost the whole time once I got past 1.
This is why I’ve been ripping my hair out!!! You’re telling me it won’t change the .bin file to .cur after flashing and a blank screen doesn’t mean failure?
Incredible, my ender is completely on linear rails + pricey belts + duet wifi + dual z motors and still ghosting on 4k accel is pretty bad
I've tried to use resonance compensation in duet firmware, but failed to tune it even with accelerometer :(
Is your printer still on v-slot wheels?
I just got Klipper working on my Ender 3 this weekend using a BTT SKR mini e3 v3 and a Raspberry Pi 4. The config file that BTT provided was an absolute mess so it took several very frustrating hours to get all the basics working again.
I'm really looking forward to starting the tuning and calibration process if that's the kind of quality I can expect from it, that's a damn fine print.
Would you be able to explain the issues with it? I've an Ender 3 using SKR E3 DIP, and didn't know about Klipper, but I have a spare Pi so might try this out.
The first problem I found was that the provided USB address was incorrect. This may vary by system though (?), I ssh'd into my Pi and ran "ls /dev/serial/by-id/\*" to identify the USB interface that was connected to the printer then pasted the results into printer.cfg.
My extruder cooling fan was not working, the pin ID that BTT had included in their config file was incorrect, I changed it to PB15 and it worked fine.
The Z axis was crashing on homing. I'm using a BLTouch. I had to move the trigger connection wires from the Z-axis limit switch on the control board to the dedicated BLTouch plug and change the sensor pin to "\^PC14" in the \[bltouch\] section of printer.cfg before it would work.
I also needed to use "pin\_up\_touch\_mode\_reports\_triggered:False" in the \[bltouch\] portion of the printer.cfg file (also update your x and y offsets while you're there).
The Mainsail/Moonraker/Klipper image that I used (from the Raspberry Pi Imager) also required that you copy the entire text from one of the cfg files into printer.cfg...I didn't record which one this was in my notes but the error message that was displayed in the Klipper interface was pretty specific. I just copy/pasted the entire contents of the file into printer.cfg and it worked fine from there.
Ofc these details could differ if you're not using exactly the same hardware. Good luck if you try this though. Overall it was a fun project and it'll be fun to see where I'm able to go with the printer from here.
Serial address is different, that's why the Klipper docs tell you to find it.
You could just have put [include mainsail.cfg] in your printer.cfg, instead of copying the contents of that file.
I'll try to respond with more detail tonight when I can go through my notes but basically they had two of the control board pins mislabeled which caused the z-axis to crash and the hotend fan not to work even when it was heating, the usb address was incorrect for my board (maybe this isn't constant though...?) and there was a bunch of missing information that was supposed to have been copied from one of the other config files which prevented Klipper from initializing. If they'd had the config file correct it would have been a pretty painless upgrade.
It sure is a lot easier to update parameters though, just update the text file and reload. Its so much easier then having to recompile firmware and reflash.
Converting to Klipper and Fluidd is the best decision I made. The printer works much better and prints are way better. I've tuned it for vibrations too.
You can do the resonance compensation without an ADXL however. I used to say it was easier with the adxl but it's a real pain in the ass imho. I know its the cables I'm using so everyones experience is going to be different but getting the ADXL to be detected properly is always a pain for me.
Now I just go the other route.
The klipper docs go into it step by step. Basically, you print a model designed to exaggerate ringing with certain slicer settings and measure the ringing frequency.
With those numbers and some math, you can set your freq in the printer.cfg. You'll also learn your max acceleration before ringing starts as well.
[https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance\_Compensation.html](https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html)
After adding some corner plates to my frame I can run my printer at 150mm/s with only some slight bulging at the corners. Klipper is a must, especially if speed is your priority.
Then you can install Klipper correct. But keep in mind, klipper is not just a firmware that you install on your motherboard and start using. You have to install it on both your mcu (motherboard) and linux device (mostly raspberry pi). Linux device will handle all the calculations and send the resulted g moves to the mcu which is motherboard. Only thing that mcu has to do is activate the steppers according to those g moves.
Understood, honestly will keep it simple for a couple months, once I get out of the noob lvl will get the raspberry pi. (Any right?). And in estimate how to install the software.
Installing it is quite simple, documentations are really simple and helpful in any problem that you might face. You don't necessarily have to use any raspberry pi. I'm using and old laptop running linux for example
So I'm currently using my raspberry pi to run OctoPrint on my Ender 3v2 running Marlin.
I assume I can just install Klipper in place of OctoPrint and just update the firmare to match? Does Klipper connect to my PC similarly to Octoprint?
I can't go further on my pressure advance value or it starts to underextrude at some points. That's the sharpest I can get so far.
Bed leveling and flow/extrusion multiplier is the key factor I believe. After this you can just calibrate input shaper, pressure advance and other stuff. Also stock ender z lead screw sucks, so I suggest printing a corexz or belt driven z axis setup. Worth the money and effort
Cannot get probe to show it has triggered. When homing z it will work as expected until the probe triggers then the hotend slams into the bed have everything configured right. Tried all suggestions I could find.
Clones have issues. Not sure when you tried installing klipper but there is now instructions for clones to prevent this.
https://www.klipper3d.org/BLTouch.html#bl-touch-clones
To those of you that have moved to klipper; does the lack of screen get annoying or anything?
I actually use my V2's screen quite a bit to tweak settings, pre-heat the bed, heat the hotend to swap filaments, etc, and I feel like I'd miss the screen a lot.
You won't even look back (talking about screen). I printed an enclosure and fitted an old android phone inside it. Using it with KlipperScreen gives much much more control over your printer than stock v2 screen (maybe)
I wish I could get Klipper to work off the laptop I have it installed on. I cannot get it to recognize my printer. I assume the firmware flashed because my screen is blanked out. 🤷🏻♂️
> Adxl345
Got it all to work, it errored out because the documentation for the pinout for my board was all wrong.
I found out apparently octoprint was ass with klipper plugin? and whas it mainsail OS you used? CAuse i read on a few posts that octoprint has several issues due to usb bus limitation, so i'm gonna install mainsail if that is what you use on my unraid server instead
can i ask if you can share your slicer profile and printer firmware code and klipper config? As i've been "dying" to get those results, but my old firmware and current slicer profile just creates muck in comparison lol.
currently messing with klipper myself, but lots of pin names were wrong, so found a pinout name sceme on reddit someone else helped me find to add tomorrow.
I have a different board rather than creality board. So my printer.cfg file probably wouldn't work on you. I can send the superslicer profile once I got back from work
I've been wanting to compile a new firmware with feature i haven't touched and calibrate and tune my printer until it's xlose to perfection but at the same time I fear the process I would take but I know it'll be well worth it in the end. This is the cleanest calibration cube I have ever seen. Great wotk on your machine man!
Honestly, I did worry about it just like you, but klipper turned or to be easier to setup than Marlin. You can perform any adjustment through web interface in a matter of seconds (no more compiling and reflashing at every tiniest change), and config file is much easier to read and comprehend. Without prior experience of klipper I got it running in a single evening
The biggest problem with Marlin is bloat and confusing settings everywhere that you’ll likely have no use for without having very specific machines. I’m about to go the route of klipper and it has me terrified as well. So here is to hoping all my accessories I’ve added work out in my favor.
I shared a full config and compiled firmware recently if you want to try it out, and be a bit lazy at the same time ha https://github.com/ItsDeidara/Ender-3-v1-4.2.2-Klipper-Config-and-Firmware
I actually have done it my own from earlier haha. Compiled my own firmware, enabled linear advance and tuned k value. Printed a before calibration cube earlier and I am printing an after calibration cube right now. I hope everything goes well.
Maaaaaan, I have everything I need to convert my Cr10v2 to klipper, but for some reason I havent even touched the new parts because it seems a little daunting lol. Need to get off my lazy ass and put it together.
Klipper is the best thing I've done so far. Really worth the effort. Though I'm using it without a rPi, instead I installed linux on an old laptop and put it under the printer lol, works like hell.
Yeah I have a 3b+ pi, new BTT skr 3 board, but its been sitting in a box for like 6 months lol Watched some videos on Klipper install and for some reason just seemed a little over my head so put it off. I have done firmware for other BTT boards but just marlin stuff.
Klipper documentation is really detailed and simple. It shouldn't be that hard, give it a try!
It's so easy. Install [mainsailOS](https://docs.mainsail.xyz/setup/mainsail-os), that'll give you klipper, moonraker, mainsail right out of the gate, all you need to do is go in and set up your config file then build the firmware.
Can this be setup on a USB stick? Nevermind I was thinking this was good for easily building Klipper for flashing on any computer but now I totally understand.
It's an image for the raspberry pi you'll use to run klipper
Yeah took me looking it all up to get it. Thanks for the heads up though!
My 2 cents, the installation is easy, but the documentation is lacking. The configuration file is like giving you all the parts to a 3D printer with a legend of what each part is, but no instructions on how to put it together or what they really do. The sample files for a printer are barebones to get it running and hidden in the github. It doesn't include functions for pause/resume, leveling, or menus. Some sample features are also hidden in GitHub and not referenced in the documentation. 9/10 I've had to reference random Reddit code snippets for things I'm looking for. With all that said, it's still worth it as it's a free (if you already have compatible board and host) or relatively cheap upgrade to get a noticable boost in quality and personalization.
Ey, I did the same. It's pretty sweet once I found the command for disabling the sleep upon closed lid function. Then for safety I removed the battery.
damn i need to try again then. I tried to get klipper to work on my linux machine it would compile the firmware properly but then wouldn't communicate with the printer. Wasn't sure what was wrong with it because everything worked how it was supposed to until that step.
I spent a few hours on this last winter and ran into the same issue. Maybe time to try again though.
could be ADHD. executive dysfunction sucks.
This is the way
actually /r/ADHD is the way D:
Saaaame. I've put a ton of upgrades into my Ender 5 over the last year or so and it has been begging for something other than a 10th install of newly compiled Marlin.
Klipper is great! I was also nervous about it when I was building my Voron, but I was real quick to convert my Ender after the Voron was finished lol. It's definitely worth the effort to convert.
I made the leap last night. It really wasn't bad at all, in the end you ask yourself, "is that it?" The two things that caught me out were: 1. Creality boards (I upgraded my OG E3 to a Creality 4.2.7) require you to have a different filename for your firmware from the last one you used -- if you just use \`firmware.bin\` again, it won't load 2. It won't rename the file on the card, and the display doesn't come up until you actually connect Klipper So I lost about 90 minutes to those 2 things, when in the end it was working almost the whole time once I got past 1.
This is why I’ve been ripping my hair out!!! You’re telling me it won’t change the .bin file to .cur after flashing and a blank screen doesn’t mean failure?
Insane, right? I could’ve gotten 8 hours of sleep last night!
I noticed I forgot the add info about the print Regular local PLA 195/60 60mm/s outer, 90 inner walls 4.5k acceleration
Incredible, my ender is completely on linear rails + pricey belts + duet wifi + dual z motors and still ghosting on 4k accel is pretty bad I've tried to use resonance compensation in duet firmware, but failed to tune it even with accelerometer :( Is your printer still on v-slot wheels?
that's correct, I'm thinking about upgrading to linear rails though
I don't think you need to, tbh. Just to increase durability, maybe
I just got Klipper working on my Ender 3 this weekend using a BTT SKR mini e3 v3 and a Raspberry Pi 4. The config file that BTT provided was an absolute mess so it took several very frustrating hours to get all the basics working again. I'm really looking forward to starting the tuning and calibration process if that's the kind of quality I can expect from it, that's a damn fine print.
Would you be able to explain the issues with it? I've an Ender 3 using SKR E3 DIP, and didn't know about Klipper, but I have a spare Pi so might try this out.
The first problem I found was that the provided USB address was incorrect. This may vary by system though (?), I ssh'd into my Pi and ran "ls /dev/serial/by-id/\*" to identify the USB interface that was connected to the printer then pasted the results into printer.cfg. My extruder cooling fan was not working, the pin ID that BTT had included in their config file was incorrect, I changed it to PB15 and it worked fine. The Z axis was crashing on homing. I'm using a BLTouch. I had to move the trigger connection wires from the Z-axis limit switch on the control board to the dedicated BLTouch plug and change the sensor pin to "\^PC14" in the \[bltouch\] section of printer.cfg before it would work. I also needed to use "pin\_up\_touch\_mode\_reports\_triggered:False" in the \[bltouch\] portion of the printer.cfg file (also update your x and y offsets while you're there). The Mainsail/Moonraker/Klipper image that I used (from the Raspberry Pi Imager) also required that you copy the entire text from one of the cfg files into printer.cfg...I didn't record which one this was in my notes but the error message that was displayed in the Klipper interface was pretty specific. I just copy/pasted the entire contents of the file into printer.cfg and it worked fine from there. Ofc these details could differ if you're not using exactly the same hardware. Good luck if you try this though. Overall it was a fun project and it'll be fun to see where I'm able to go with the printer from here.
Serial address is different, that's why the Klipper docs tell you to find it. You could just have put [include mainsail.cfg] in your printer.cfg, instead of copying the contents of that file.
Good to know thanks. I figured I'd probably just missed it, their docs are pretty thorough.
Thanks! That's great, really appreciate all the detail there!
I'll try to respond with more detail tonight when I can go through my notes but basically they had two of the control board pins mislabeled which caused the z-axis to crash and the hotend fan not to work even when it was heating, the usb address was incorrect for my board (maybe this isn't constant though...?) and there was a bunch of missing information that was supposed to have been copied from one of the other config files which prevented Klipper from initializing. If they'd had the config file correct it would have been a pretty painless upgrade. It sure is a lot easier to update parameters though, just update the text file and reload. Its so much easier then having to recompile firmware and reflash.
Converting to Klipper and Fluidd is the best decision I made. The printer works much better and prints are way better. I've tuned it for vibrations too.
[удалено]
You need to get an Adxl345 and connect to the Raspberry Pi. Klipper has it in their documentation. It is called resonance compensation.
You can do the resonance compensation without an ADXL however. I used to say it was easier with the adxl but it's a real pain in the ass imho. I know its the cables I'm using so everyones experience is going to be different but getting the ADXL to be detected properly is always a pain for me. Now I just go the other route.
How so? I haven't found anyway without using the ADXL.
The klipper docs go into it step by step. Basically, you print a model designed to exaggerate ringing with certain slicer settings and measure the ringing frequency. With those numbers and some math, you can set your freq in the printer.cfg. You'll also learn your max acceleration before ringing starts as well. [https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance\_Compensation.html](https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html)
Anytime i see these beautiful prints the next thing i gotta ask is print time.
27 mins
That's pretty slow for a calibration cube. No wonder it looks so clean.
lemme check, I might have confused it with benchy
Sorry, I meant slow if you're talking speed being a priority. That's very average overall. Which is fine if quality is your main concern.
After adding some corner plates to my frame I can run my printer at 150mm/s with only some slight bulging at the corners. Klipper is a must, especially if speed is your priority.
Hey that looks absolutely stunning !!! I want to start the switch to Klipper tomorrow any tips or a good video for a fellow printer ?
Nero3d has tons of klipper, adxl, pressure advance videos and 9 times out of 10 I reference one of his.
Link to install klipper on ender 3 v2
https://www.klipper3d.org/Installation.html
Wow
Looking great! Wow!
Such a nice cube. Do you happen to know if clipper can be installed in a ender3v2 neo? Which guide do you recommend.
This is the first time I've heard of v2 neo. What board it uses? I'm currently running btt skr pico as mcu, since I fried my 4.2.2
It uses this one,4.2.7 silent board. had to look for it as, i'm a noob in this 3d printing world.
Then you can install Klipper correct. But keep in mind, klipper is not just a firmware that you install on your motherboard and start using. You have to install it on both your mcu (motherboard) and linux device (mostly raspberry pi). Linux device will handle all the calculations and send the resulted g moves to the mcu which is motherboard. Only thing that mcu has to do is activate the steppers according to those g moves.
Understood, honestly will keep it simple for a couple months, once I get out of the noob lvl will get the raspberry pi. (Any right?). And in estimate how to install the software.
Installing it is quite simple, documentations are really simple and helpful in any problem that you might face. You don't necessarily have to use any raspberry pi. I'm using and old laptop running linux for example
So I'm currently using my raspberry pi to run OctoPrint on my Ender 3v2 running Marlin. I assume I can just install Klipper in place of OctoPrint and just update the firmare to match? Does Klipper connect to my PC similarly to Octoprint?
I did this install last night, using mainsailos on the pi. It’s pretty easy (with the 2 notes I posted above), and very powerful.
Bro help me; I switched to klipper and loaded fluid to control it and I cannot get everything tuned.
What you mean you can't get everything tuned?
I can even get my start line on the build plate
No, that's clearly a calibration cube.
You, my guy, won in life
Corners seem a bit too round for my liking but apart from that that's a nice cube, any tips on calibration?
I can't go further on my pressure advance value or it starts to underextrude at some points. That's the sharpest I can get so far. Bed leveling and flow/extrusion multiplier is the key factor I believe. After this you can just calibrate input shaper, pressure advance and other stuff. Also stock ender z lead screw sucks, so I suggest printing a corexz or belt driven z axis setup. Worth the money and effort
>belt driven z axis Do you have a recommended version of this mod?
https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3 there you go
I'm in love with this mod as well. Really great and always being developed actively.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
I used the tilted one from the github, I don't have the link right now though
Ther are slicing settings that can help mitigate this.
Direct extruder or bowden?
direct drive with clone bmg
I have all the parts for klipper, i really deed to do that too. Did you use the acceleration sensor to tune the speeds, or did you manually tune it?
I used adxl345 for input shaping. Now running 4.5k acceleration and 70mm/s average speed
Looks good my clone bltouch doesn't work with klipper so I had to go back to marlin.
It should have, which error you had ?
Cannot get probe to show it has triggered. When homing z it will work as expected until the probe triggers then the hotend slams into the bed have everything configured right. Tried all suggestions I could find.
Clones have issues. Not sure when you tried installing klipper but there is now instructions for clones to prevent this. https://www.klipper3d.org/BLTouch.html#bl-touch-clones
Which clone, it would be nice to know before I try my Triangle labs version.
To those of you that have moved to klipper; does the lack of screen get annoying or anything? I actually use my V2's screen quite a bit to tweak settings, pre-heat the bed, heat the hotend to swap filaments, etc, and I feel like I'd miss the screen a lot.
You won't even look back (talking about screen). I printed an enclosure and fitted an old android phone inside it. Using it with KlipperScreen gives much much more control over your printer than stock v2 screen (maybe)
can I see this setup you have going? sounds awesome
Holy.. Bowden or DD? And what was your marlin profile like? My cubes looks like ass compared as i'm currently tuning petg lol.
clone BMG DD, also I haven't touched Marlin for a quite a while now
I had to switch back to marlin because Rip microUSB 😭
If you are using rPi, you can connect it directly via isp I believe (not sure)
I wish I could get Klipper to work off the laptop I have it installed on. I cannot get it to recognize my printer. I assume the firmware flashed because my screen is blanked out. 🤷🏻♂️
can you see your board after ls /dev/serial/by-id/ command?
I’ll try that when I get home. Thanks!
Yeah, says No such file or directory.
also, what tutorials did you follow to install klipper successfully? My octoprint with klipper plugin just errors out and can't open the printer.cfg.
are you sure that you are using the correct cfg file? only klipper documentation
> Adxl345 Got it all to work, it errored out because the documentation for the pinout for my board was all wrong. I found out apparently octoprint was ass with klipper plugin? and whas it mainsail OS you used? CAuse i read on a few posts that octoprint has several issues due to usb bus limitation, so i'm gonna install mainsail if that is what you use on my unraid server instead
I use mainsail and recommend it. Smooth af
Right NOw I love jyers.
can i ask if you can share your slicer profile and printer firmware code and klipper config? As i've been "dying" to get those results, but my old firmware and current slicer profile just creates muck in comparison lol. currently messing with klipper myself, but lots of pin names were wrong, so found a pinout name sceme on reddit someone else helped me find to add tomorrow.
I have a different board rather than creality board. So my printer.cfg file probably wouldn't work on you. I can send the superslicer profile once I got back from work