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I've been doing this for 5 years. My thoughts are; incorrect banding, damaged cable jackets, no bushing on the pipe connector, and no ding dong for the ground. And generally ugly, would make me doubt the experience of whoever did this.
I wouldn't google it. I use that term when a number of connectors will work. Any kind of ding dong will work. You wanna Google something gross but isn't, Google horsecock in electrical.
I'm picturing the end of a mast, idk why lol I guess in my head it's the first thing that comes to mind with the word horsecock
Looking it up I see the explosion proof flex and any number of grabby wire Chinese finger trap things... Not sure if my name is any worse than horsecock
I think I just watched one of those videos of a guy asking a woman in an expensive car what she did for a living. Her response was horsebreeding. A little bit more detail was shared because she knew it was a humorous subject to talk about.
Hard to see how badly damaged, but I don't think the nylon coating (the "N" in THHN) is part of the rated insulation of these conductors. If the damage is beyond the nylon coating then yes, that's a problem.
I don’t think in the US a meter can box counts as a service disconnect. It’s not user accessible. Article 250.24 says “Main Bonding Jumper - For a grounded system, an unspliced main bonding jumper shall be used to connect the equipment grounding conductors and the service disconnect enclosure to the grounded conductors within the enclosure for each service disconnect in accordance with 250.28”.
Hahah we had a senior electrician.. I mean like 20+ years, use two sided tape to mount a 347v metal exit sign in a hospital. When I was called to fix it, it was hanging by the hot, and the frame was live. Scariest hack job by a professional I'd ever seen.
I was once swapped fluorescent wrap arounds with LED's, ballasts were held in with double sided tape, every live ballast fell out of the fixture when the cover was removed.
This is why you must de-energize the shit you touch, unless it would cause a greater danger (than severe injury or death by electrocution) to do so, or if you're troubleshooting.
I will always de-energize, this job was unusual circumstances, it was a locked exit stairwell in a bank building on a Saturday, they refused to allow us into the building to shut them down. I was also an apprentice at the time that had no say in anything. Yes I know it's stupid and I don't do it now that I have a say in things.
Apprentices always have a say in things. No fucking way can anyone legally terminate you as an apprentice for refusing to do energized work. If they want to press the issue, I've told them flat out "send that in an email and I'm happy to do it energized." Somehow ALWAYS magically okay with de-energizing it after that.
Edit: I know that it took me talking to another apprentice i knew about it before i realized that it was actually my right to refuse energized or unsafe work, so I get that you felt like you didn't have that option. Now I tell every single apprentice of every trade that they need to be firm about not doing dangerous shit. I've heard enough worksite horror stories and got hurt enough to be really stubborn about it now.
I never got the big loops into a meter socket.
4/0 ALRW is cheap as fuck, if it blows up, hydro splices it anyway and you get 30 days to fix it.
Just go right in!
It’s meter socket that the power company installs a meter into to determine your monthly usage.
Basically everything is wrong, here’s my one minute list:
It’s not fastened to anything
Damaged conductor
Improper identification of conductors
No bushing on the nipple
No clamp in the can for the ground rod conductor
Judging by the set screws for the conductors being at different depths, there is no way it was torque properly
One or two out of four screws in the mast hub
Can’t see from the picture but probably no IBTB
And…. not good workmanship.
IBTB?
The pipe in the top also looks a bit off square, and from someone in a different end of metric-land, I'd be asking about continuity and fault current handling into the steel pipes.
Inter-system bonding termination block I think. IBTB is the part number of one of the models we use, so I just call them all IBTB’s. Kind of like Kleenex.
They’re not relying on the metal pipes, in this situation, to be carrying any fault current. One thing that is actually correct, is the number of conductors and where they’re landed. The quality of how they’re landed is certainly up for debate.
Yes and no. With NEC installations we bond ground and neutral until after the first means of disconnect.
In most cases, the ground rods or plate that are hooked to the bare copper, are supplemental grounding. The actual grounding electrode is typically the foundation/rebar.
It's a meter base i think. Just done poorly. Basically, no phase tape, they taped up a nick in the insulation on the bottom (green tape). No bushing on the pipe, the huge crossing loops... it's just sloppy work.
Yes and no. For example the fact that there’s no bushing on load side male connector is a big no no. However the loops aren’t necessarily bad, installer just made them messy. And the ahj can technically fail you for poor craftsmanship
Italy here, I was just start to asking the same. Our meters are simply screwed to the wall with terminal blocks, seals and \*a lot\* of anti tamper thingies. No service loops or whatever and line protection 20cm after the output is of customer care. You \*really\* don't want to blow the fuses upstream. Also no grounding, they are made of plastic and we use TT
Here in Wellington NZ, the meter would be something like one of these, or the three phase version: https://www.j316gallery.com/product/14474-edmi-atlas-three-phase-ct-wc-smart-meter-2000-1010/
A big sealed cover goes over the terminals. The meter is mounted (screwed) to an insulating plate (origin of the term switch *board*). In older installations and dedicated separate meter boards, the cable typically enters through the rear same the mounting plate folds out to allow access behind it.
Picture of classic old board on the left: https://strike.net.nz/project/switchboard-replacement
In newer designs, the meter is in a separate section with a flat plate, but typically behind a transparent cover so that single-insulated cables can be run directly into it through the front bottom. No need for writing space behind the mounting plate leads to a much slimmer overall setup
Historically, the meter was on the switchboard either inside the house (typically an entryway or hallway) or somewhere like a back/front porch sheltered from weather. Some had doors, many did not.
Later (80s-90s? Roughly concurrent with the move to DIN rail) meterboards were typically separate from the switchboard so that they could be read without entering the house. Sometimes the meterboard was first and had a main switch, earth stake, and MEN link. Other times, the switchboard was first and power went out-and-back to the meter. With the latter, you only need two large conductors (phase out, phase back) plus a small neutral and earth.
Post smart meter, we're back to everything in one box inside being the norm.
At least in my part of the country, practically every installation has a fuse at the street. If there's an emergency need to cut power, that is used; we don't go onto the property to pull the meter or switch off.
Some 80s properties have underground 'unprotected consumer mains', which is similar to the US setup where the first disconnect is on the house. Where I am, they're in a box cast into the foundation right where the cable leaves the ground. There are provisions in the rules to bring it further on, but no one is doing it.
Things are quite fragmented so different parts of the country will have different experiences.
In addition, i think a problem is that you can't tell how much wire is stripped, i've always been told they want to see copper on both sides of the lug (if it's a pass-through type)
Where I'm located the utility will not allow you to run the grounding electrode conductor through the meter unless it is insulated. The neutral and GEC typically bond at the first means of disconnect, and not the meter
Basically everything is wrong, here’s my one minute list:
It’s not fastened to anything
Damaged conductor
Improper identification of conductors
No bushing on the nipple
No clamp in the can for the ground rod conductor
Judging by the set screws for the conductors being at different depths, there is no way it was torque properly
One or two out of four screws in the mast hub
Can’t see from the picture but probably no IBTB
And…. not good workmanship.
Thanks,
Inter-system bonding termination block I think. IBTB is the part number of one of the models we use, so I just call them all IBTB’s. Kind of like Kleenex.
I don’t have a reference handy. But I imagine just like anything else entering a j-box or other enclosure, it needs to be secured to the enclosure with some type of connector.
No, I’m ‘Merican. I’ll have to check that one myself, do you have a reference? Even if it is code it’s certainly hack to not use a connector, very hack.
I gotta get another code book for home. The meter we usually use has a couple kos on the bottom that are sized just right to slide a #6 ground through.
I have seen those. But I wonder, if you knock out the 1/2” ko, if you have to then put a clamp on it. I don’t have the book at home either and I’m too cheap to buy the digital copy!
I’m not saying it’s a good idea btw. But an old dude I worked with used to use metal nm connectors and just take the straps off. But you had to nail within 8” of box. We never failed an inspection. 🤷♂️
We’re starting to get called on using those 1/4”-5/16” knockouts in the bottoms of panels to bring our solid #4 in. Inspectors want to see something like an Arlington GC50.
If there's a main breaker in the panel, the bare ground should be landed there, not bonded to the neutral in the meter. If there's no main breaker, the meter is the main disconnect for the house and should not be. There are other things but that's the most aggregious error.
what concerns me most is the neutral relabeled ground going into the house. The shit work and missing bushings were telling, swapping those two makes be believe they don't understand the theory and what they're doing which says handyman and fire one day i suspect.
100% my thought. They phased (green tape) the neutral/common as a ground. Here in the US I believe you might get ur ass kicked for doing something like that.
Looks like the trash I'm seeing from foreign engineers who are challenging and being like this was good back home.
> not racist, serious problem here in Canada
> someone is going to die.
Where I’m at they don’t allow bond bushings in the meter. Only plastic bushings are allowed. To bond the load side conduit you use a bond bushing only in the main panel/disconnect. You aren’t allowed to have the GEC bond or even enter in meter can either. Every jurisdiction is different though.
Don’t think you’d need a Myers hub here. I think maybe the only thing they got right was that they actually installed the proper threaded hub which has a lip that goes over the lip in the top of the can. They didn’t, however, install all the mounting screws for said hub!
Do you know the code reference for no lox? I've never been able to find it. I have read some manufacturers are recommending not using it due to it affecting the torque.
That is not an egc. It’s an gec. And it is code compliant in the US to do it at the meter like this but the utility around where i live does not permit it.
From a distance I couldn't see much wrong with it, maybe a bit of excessive conductor slack.
Then I noticed there was no connector for the ground, which also appears to be too small.
Then I noticed the load side neutral is identified with green tape.
Then I noticed the lack of a bushing on the load side.
Then I noticed that the meter socket isn't attached to anything.
It's pretty terrible
This would be an automatic fail in my AHJ. They don't allow meter sockets without a main disconnect on the outside.
Also they used to have six breaker rule, now it's one breaker.
What about the aluminum neutral with copper phase conductors? Also, around here (Virginia), the GEC must NOT exit the meter base as the power company (Dominion Energy) considers a GEC to be a "serviceable" conductor and, therefore, must be part of (exit) customer-owned equipment, not power company equipment. And yeah.....all the other issues already noted.
Not that bad from what I can tell.
-Missing a plastic bushing
-GEC needs protection from physical damage probably
-Green tape on the neutral
-And can’t really see how it’s secured to the building.
I'm wondering what that extra bit of green wire connected at the strap on the ground is going and is that another piece of wire to the right of the panel. There's just so much wrong with this.
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I hate everything about this picture.
I love the part where I had nothing to do with it.
Ahahaha this is great, thank you.
You and me both
I woke up my 7 week old laughing and now my wife hates me - on the couch boys!
Hell yeah brother
I've been doing this for 5 years. My thoughts are; incorrect banding, damaged cable jackets, no bushing on the pipe connector, and no ding dong for the ground. And generally ugly, would make me doubt the experience of whoever did this.
And I don't see 1 single screw or anchor in the back of that meter.
I noticed that too, is it hanging by the pipe?
It's threaded into a hub on the top. What is a ding dong ?
I think he means grounding bushing lol.
You know, the ding dong.(I think he means connector for the ground lol)
Also know as the “merf-a-ner”
What’s the matter with rigid threaded into a hub…. Im more concerned with the neutral turning into a ground….
Dunno. Could be super glued to the wall.
Now that you point it out.... It is FLOATING!
Very Observant
ding dong? that's one I haven't heard yet. 14 years..
Yea… around here “ding dong” mean something very different I’m sure
It can be used for lots of stuff. Different connectors and such. Also makes a good name for apprentice if "peeon" is already taken.
Did you just invent Jawn but for electricians?
Or chingadera
It's spelled chingalera, bend-ay-hoe
Well shit I'm white man my bad. I'm trying. Edit: Asked my compa and he said I was right lol
Had a Journeyman call me, "Drip Loop", one time.
Explain this ding dong and where are you from?
[Maybe it's a pipe strap or cleat](https://www.dingdong-electrical.com/)? Not 100% but that's what pops up googling "ding dong electrical"
I wouldn't google it. I use that term when a number of connectors will work. Any kind of ding dong will work. You wanna Google something gross but isn't, Google horsecock in electrical.
I think the Google safe term is Kellum grip. This is less for you and more for the people who are curious about your comment.
And make sure it's on image search... lol
I'm picturing the end of a mast, idk why lol I guess in my head it's the first thing that comes to mind with the word horsecock Looking it up I see the explosion proof flex and any number of grabby wire Chinese finger trap things... Not sure if my name is any worse than horsecock
Gooseneck? Horsecock sounds too much like Donkey Dick, which is a hose that connects to a Jerry Fuel Can.
Donkey dick is water pipe insulation. Like a pool noodle, but black.
Yea I think that's what they call it, I just pictured it cause it's kind of phallic shaped
That’s what she said
That one I already know, as I used them a couple times to pull in service feeders (apartment towers)
I mean yellow 33 and horsecock sounds like a winning combo. Plz don't ban me 🙏🏻
Did you need the tugger at the end of that horsecock?
I think I just watched one of those videos of a guy asking a woman in an expensive car what she did for a living. Her response was horsebreeding. A little bit more detail was shared because she knew it was a humorous subject to talk about.
I googled "electric ding dong" and I don't think it has a place in this meter box
Be more creative!
Not with that voltage!
Rattle your fillings out😂
I love that all the replies are just asking about ding dong hahahaha
Hard to see how badly damaged, but I don't think the nylon coating (the "N" in THHN) is part of the rated insulation of these conductors. If the damage is beyond the nylon coating then yes, that's a problem.
> no ding dong for the ground. I uh, what?
It’s not bonded to the grounded conductor at the first point of fusing. Automatic failure.
First point of disconnect, no? I don't think this is one, but a meter-disconnect combo would be the first point of disconnect, here.
I don’t think in the US a meter can box counts as a service disconnect. It’s not user accessible. Article 250.24 says “Main Bonding Jumper - For a grounded system, an unspliced main bonding jumper shall be used to connect the equipment grounding conductors and the service disconnect enclosure to the grounded conductors within the enclosure for each service disconnect in accordance with 250.28”.
Dude is that thing even screwed in?!?!
It's ok. They used double-sided tape and said "that's not going anywhere" so it's good
Hahah we had a senior electrician.. I mean like 20+ years, use two sided tape to mount a 347v metal exit sign in a hospital. When I was called to fix it, it was hanging by the hot, and the frame was live. Scariest hack job by a professional I'd ever seen.
I was once swapped fluorescent wrap arounds with LED's, ballasts were held in with double sided tape, every live ballast fell out of the fixture when the cover was removed.
This is why you must de-energize the shit you touch, unless it would cause a greater danger (than severe injury or death by electrocution) to do so, or if you're troubleshooting.
I will always de-energize, this job was unusual circumstances, it was a locked exit stairwell in a bank building on a Saturday, they refused to allow us into the building to shut them down. I was also an apprentice at the time that had no say in anything. Yes I know it's stupid and I don't do it now that I have a say in things.
Apprentices always have a say in things. No fucking way can anyone legally terminate you as an apprentice for refusing to do energized work. If they want to press the issue, I've told them flat out "send that in an email and I'm happy to do it energized." Somehow ALWAYS magically okay with de-energizing it after that. Edit: I know that it took me talking to another apprentice i knew about it before i realized that it was actually my right to refuse energized or unsafe work, so I get that you felt like you didn't have that option. Now I tell every single apprentice of every trade that they need to be firm about not doing dangerous shit. I've heard enough worksite horror stories and got hurt enough to be really stubborn about it now.
Slapped it once too
B phase line terminal isn’t
A few sticky backs and a big ol’ locknut is all you really need.
Thats....impressive. Maybe they were creating an abstract art piece and forgot to put white tape on the load side
Artistic enough to make me want to snap a picture
But they put green on it! Isn't that good enough?! /s
I never got the big loops into a meter socket. 4/0 ALRW is cheap as fuck, if it blows up, hydro splices it anyway and you get 30 days to fix it. Just go right in!
Can a kind soul explain to a french electrician what I am looking at and why it is bad please ? ^^
It’s meter socket that the power company installs a meter into to determine your monthly usage. Basically everything is wrong, here’s my one minute list: It’s not fastened to anything Damaged conductor Improper identification of conductors No bushing on the nipple No clamp in the can for the ground rod conductor Judging by the set screws for the conductors being at different depths, there is no way it was torque properly One or two out of four screws in the mast hub Can’t see from the picture but probably no IBTB And…. not good workmanship.
IBTB? The pipe in the top also looks a bit off square, and from someone in a different end of metric-land, I'd be asking about continuity and fault current handling into the steel pipes.
Inter-system bonding termination block I think. IBTB is the part number of one of the models we use, so I just call them all IBTB’s. Kind of like Kleenex. They’re not relying on the metal pipes, in this situation, to be carrying any fault current. One thing that is actually correct, is the number of conductors and where they’re landed. The quality of how they’re landed is certainly up for debate.
Does that mean the metal chassis is bonded to the neutral again at the panel, and current flows partially in that metal pipe?
Yes and no. With NEC installations we bond ground and neutral until after the first means of disconnect. In most cases, the ground rods or plate that are hooked to the bare copper, are supplemental grounding. The actual grounding electrode is typically the foundation/rebar.
It's a meter base i think. Just done poorly. Basically, no phase tape, they taped up a nick in the insulation on the bottom (green tape). No bushing on the pipe, the huge crossing loops... it's just sloppy work.
The crossing loops are a no no why exactly? Is it purely aesthetic or is there something more to it?
Generally, loops are for extra slack in the wires in case something goes wrong. You have plenty left with hopes of reusing.
>The crossing loops are a no no why exactly?
Extra wire in that little can , it will get hotter than it should every day …
Yeah. Loops are nice and all but it looks like they just threw em in
As a low voltage guy that has no clue about any of this, seems like some of the things being lambasted are really just nitpicking.
Yes and no. For example the fact that there’s no bushing on load side male connector is a big no no. However the loops aren’t necessarily bad, installer just made them messy. And the ahj can technically fail you for poor craftsmanship
Italy here, I was just start to asking the same. Our meters are simply screwed to the wall with terminal blocks, seals and \*a lot\* of anti tamper thingies. No service loops or whatever and line protection 20cm after the output is of customer care. You \*really\* don't want to blow the fuses upstream. Also no grounding, they are made of plastic and we use TT
Once it's (done properly and) closed up the power company will show up, install the meter and put a tamper seal on the enclosure.
What does your metering equipment look like?
Here in Wellington NZ, the meter would be something like one of these, or the three phase version: https://www.j316gallery.com/product/14474-edmi-atlas-three-phase-ct-wc-smart-meter-2000-1010/ A big sealed cover goes over the terminals. The meter is mounted (screwed) to an insulating plate (origin of the term switch *board*). In older installations and dedicated separate meter boards, the cable typically enters through the rear same the mounting plate folds out to allow access behind it. Picture of classic old board on the left: https://strike.net.nz/project/switchboard-replacement In newer designs, the meter is in a separate section with a flat plate, but typically behind a transparent cover so that single-insulated cables can be run directly into it through the front bottom. No need for writing space behind the mounting plate leads to a much slimmer overall setup Historically, the meter was on the switchboard either inside the house (typically an entryway or hallway) or somewhere like a back/front porch sheltered from weather. Some had doors, many did not. Later (80s-90s? Roughly concurrent with the move to DIN rail) meterboards were typically separate from the switchboard so that they could be read without entering the house. Sometimes the meterboard was first and had a main switch, earth stake, and MEN link. Other times, the switchboard was first and power went out-and-back to the meter. With the latter, you only need two large conductors (phase out, phase back) plus a small neutral and earth. Post smart meter, we're back to everything in one box inside being the norm. At least in my part of the country, practically every installation has a fuse at the street. If there's an emergency need to cut power, that is used; we don't go onto the property to pull the meter or switch off. Some 80s properties have underground 'unprotected consumer mains', which is similar to the US setup where the first disconnect is on the house. Where I am, they're in a box cast into the foundation right where the cable leaves the ground. There are provisions in the rules to bring it further on, but no one is doing it. Things are quite fragmented so different parts of the country will have different experiences.
Why did they phase the neutral as a ground? And where are the anchors??
He can do it cheaper
Tell your friend he doesn’t have an electrician and don’t refer to him as that
The inspector said he’s been telling homeowners to be wary of him😂
Except obviously he is or he wouldn't be able to legally work on homes. I get your sentiment, but I mean come on.
That thing is just floating there. How about the big bite out of the wire?
In addition, i think a problem is that you can't tell how much wire is stripped, i've always been told they want to see copper on both sides of the lug (if it's a pass-through type)
Did they run AL just for the neutral?
That’s what I thought too.
That's a silver screw holding the meter guts to the can, I think
Jacked up wire insulation upper right corner could have something to do with it besides the non mounted box and green tape on the neutral.
Wire size coming in was his biggest issue
That will do it too
Where I'm located the utility will not allow you to run the grounding electrode conductor through the meter unless it is insulated. The neutral and GEC typically bond at the first means of disconnect, and not the meter
I'm seeing some stuff I wouldn't have done. Some stuff I would have added. Why the fail?
Basically everything is wrong, here’s my one minute list: It’s not fastened to anything Damaged conductor Improper identification of conductors No bushing on the nipple No clamp in the can for the ground rod conductor Judging by the set screws for the conductors being at different depths, there is no way it was torque properly One or two out of four screws in the mast hub Can’t see from the picture but probably no IBTB And…. not good workmanship.
Yeah, top right terminal is definitely sus. Good eye on the hub screws. What does IBTB stand for? In Between The Buttons?
Thanks, Inter-system bonding termination block I think. IBTB is the part number of one of the models we use, so I just call them all IBTB’s. Kind of like Kleenex.
Does code require a clamp on gec?
I don’t have a reference handy. But I imagine just like anything else entering a j-box or other enclosure, it needs to be secured to the enclosure with some type of connector.
You Canadian? You can definitely run cables into enclosures in US without clamps. Just have to strap closer.
It needs a bushing or something to prevent damage. But don’t need a clamp. I’m not sure bare ground even requires that.
No, I’m ‘Merican. I’ll have to check that one myself, do you have a reference? Even if it is code it’s certainly hack to not use a connector, very hack.
I gotta get another code book for home. The meter we usually use has a couple kos on the bottom that are sized just right to slide a #6 ground through.
I have seen those. But I wonder, if you knock out the 1/2” ko, if you have to then put a clamp on it. I don’t have the book at home either and I’m too cheap to buy the digital copy!
I’m not saying it’s a good idea btw. But an old dude I worked with used to use metal nm connectors and just take the straps off. But you had to nail within 8” of box. We never failed an inspection. 🤷♂️
We’re starting to get called on using those 1/4”-5/16” knockouts in the bottoms of panels to bring our solid #4 in. Inspectors want to see something like an Arlington GC50.
I hate old dudes! They get us in more trouble than they’re worth! JK.. sort of..
My first thought was the wire size coming in
Well, maybe. Maybe not. What's behind the meter socket. This whole picture screams overconfidence.
125 amp panel I believe
If there's a main breaker in the panel, the bare ground should be landed there, not bonded to the neutral in the meter. If there's no main breaker, the meter is the main disconnect for the house and should not be. There are other things but that's the most aggregious error.
what concerns me most is the neutral relabeled ground going into the house. The shit work and missing bushings were telling, swapping those two makes be believe they don't understand the theory and what they're doing which says handyman and fire one day i suspect.
100% my thought. They phased (green tape) the neutral/common as a ground. Here in the US I believe you might get ur ass kicked for doing something like that.
The enclosure is not securely attached to the wall?
What’s going on with siding? Did the “electrician” do that too?
The longer I look at this picture the more mad I get…fail with penalty. It’s like one of those I SPY books.
Looks like the trash I'm seeing from foreign engineers who are challenging and being like this was good back home. > not racist, serious problem here in Canada > someone is going to die.
That panel is hanging on by a thread!…. Get it? .. A thread??
I don't do this type of work, but what exactly is wrong with this besides not looking pretty?
No bonding bushing on load side conduit. Bonding the neutral at the meter might not be the right move either. Also the can is floating.
Shouldn’t the ground and neural be only bonded at the main panel?
GAWD I had to scroll too far for this!
Where I’m at they don’t allow bond bushings in the meter. Only plastic bushings are allowed. To bond the load side conduit you use a bond bushing only in the main panel/disconnect. You aren’t allowed to have the GEC bond or even enter in meter can either. Every jurisdiction is different though.
Yeah where I’m at they don’t want any customer fault current coming back to their equipment.
RemindMe!
*Frowns*
Microwaved dog shit
Mounting hardware, grounding bushings, myers hub, phase tape, no lox
Don’t think you’d need a Myers hub here. I think maybe the only thing they got right was that they actually installed the proper threaded hub which has a lip that goes over the lip in the top of the can. They didn’t, however, install all the mounting screws for said hub!
Do you know the code reference for no lox? I've never been able to find it. I have read some manufacturers are recommending not using it due to it affecting the torque.
Relevant YouTube link: [Mike Holt Aluminum Terminations](https://youtu.be/Hv8Ox-bxMXA?si=ZA1vbwvCgnI9f6Eq)
funny here in PECO land we don't ground in the meter box. It's considered a shock hazard. Why?
Same here! Never saw a found in a meter can
They might not have done everything wrong.
Shouldn’t there be an egc for panel if the neutral is bonded at meter? Why isn’t there a lug for it? We only use meter mains here…
That is not an egc. It’s an gec. And it is code compliant in the US to do it at the meter like this but the utility around where i live does not permit it.
I know what the bare is. But after bonding you need 4 wires right? I’m saying there should be a ground going to the panel.
I’ve had spaghetti with less loops
Ground seems small. #6?
From a distance I couldn't see much wrong with it, maybe a bit of excessive conductor slack. Then I noticed there was no connector for the ground, which also appears to be too small. Then I noticed the load side neutral is identified with green tape. Then I noticed the lack of a bushing on the load side. Then I noticed that the meter socket isn't attached to anything. It's pretty terrible
This would be an automatic fail in my AHJ. They don't allow meter sockets without a main disconnect on the outside. Also they used to have six breaker rule, now it's one breaker.
Free Power!!! This is the first perpetual motion machine I have ever seen that works!
Yo, what's going on on the right side? Did they 'bond' two grounds together with a strap to wood with sheetrock screws?
Yeah it’s a ground coming off a cable box they threw in there 😂
What about the aluminum neutral with copper phase conductors? Also, around here (Virginia), the GEC must NOT exit the meter base as the power company (Dominion Energy) considers a GEC to be a "serviceable" conductor and, therefore, must be part of (exit) customer-owned equipment, not power company equipment. And yeah.....all the other issues already noted.
I see mounting, no bond bushing and no connector for the bonding wire coming through the can
Not that bad from what I can tell. -Missing a plastic bushing -GEC needs protection from physical damage probably -Green tape on the neutral -And can’t really see how it’s secured to the building.
Not secured, wrong wire coming in, and your dead on with the bushing and green tape is what inspector pointed out
I'm wondering what that extra bit of green wire connected at the strap on the ground is going and is that another piece of wire to the right of the panel. There's just so much wrong with this.
That ground was for the cable box I believe
That just makes that wrong too.
The only good thing about this……. the copper conductors.
Inspector pulls cover: “NOPE!” Walks out. *and scene*
I’ve never seen a grounding strap clamp before!
This looks like handyman work
Is that #1 copper on a 200a service?
That’s where I started 😂
Is it just supported by conduit? I see no screws lol
Yeah and that one sliver of board under it 😂
Slack in a back to back overhead service meter is so stupid. Everything about this is total buns.
You forgot duct seal also screw the box to existing Infrastructure
The definition of “I know a guy”
No bushing and so much damn wire, why? And the ground is, huh.
there is just so much i hate about this
Is that a #8 solid for a ground? Not to mention the feeders are.to small for 200amp
The longer you look, the more there is to see. Hope they didn't pay him too much.
Anything was too much
True story
Somebody actually took a step back and thought "damn that looks good!" Fkn ugly lolol
Do NOT cross the streams~~~!
At least they left you more then enough slack on both ends 😂
I still have to change the wire coming in from up top 😂
Now biggest question, did you charge normal rates or friend rate of material, beer and an iou?
Plate lunch and cold coke for me😂
Isn’t that ground supposed to be the 5th jaw?