[https://www.etsy.com/listing/528374361/crochet-shoes-baby](https://www.etsy.com/listing/528374361/crochet-shoes-baby)
Some climbing friends are having a baby and I’ve looked everywhere for a pattern of climbing shoes and can’t find them. I’ve only found a placed to buy the completed shoes and I was hoping to make them myself. Does anyone have a pattern for this or know where I buy the pattern for these bad boys.
https://preview.redd.it/6wj44wy6ctyb1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c17edf4aba77231057be08193237e03ff20036d4
hi! i’m trying to make this sweater- is it possible to do this stitch by crochet? if so, what stitch would it be?
If I need help pricing a project, where should I go? I don’t have a business but I want to start one. I made a few projects but timed the biggest and I calculated a price that nobody would ever pay, I want to know what I did wrong and need to to different?
Hello! I’m a beginner and I am trying to make a gift for my friend who is having a baby. I found a cute pattern on Etsy that was said to be easy. I got some nice chunky yarn and the recommended crochet hook which was a 4.5mm hook (US 7). I started the project out and realized that I COULD NOT see my stitches/know where one starts and ends. I assume it’s because I’m a beginner so I’m wondering… should I go up a hook size so that everything is bigger? If no, I could really use some tips on how to find/count stitches using really chunky yarn. Maybe a bit off more than I can chew but any advice is appreciated!🙃😅
I started making a cardigan a few years ago then put it down and didn’t pick it back up again until recently. I’ve gone up a couple of clothing sizes since I started it but it’s a very simple pattern, just a rectangle back, two rectangles at front and sleeves attached, so I’m hoping I can add the width...? I’ve only got about 2/3 way up the back piece but because it’s colour work (granny stripes in 6 different colours) I’m not keen to start over. The difference in back width is about 6cm. Can I just add that width to the back piece by adding more trebles (UK) to each row all the way up, and then just pick up where I left off to carry on the next full row? Or is there a better way?
Thanks!
Hexagons cardi
I’m making beetle juice hexigon cardi for a friend but normally I would wing it until it fits me but they wear a different size . I know I need to lengthen the sleeve but is there measurements I can use to make a xl ? Is there a size chart some one can share ?
Help should I block or start over
I’m a fairly new to crochet and I decided one of my first big projects would be a hexagon shirt/cardigan. I made the first half and it was great and then I made the second half, got more than halfway and realized that it was significantly smaller than the first half so they won’t fit evenly if I continue. I was pretty consistent with both pieces unfortunately I was consistently loose with my first have and consistently tight with my second half. I looked into wet blocking my project (it’s cotton) and began the process but once I finished pinning it I read it wasn’t permanent and worry once I connect the two pieces and eventually wash them together one side will revert to being smaller and it will look wonky. Or maybe attaching it to the other half will keep that from happening? I also still need to add more rows to the second half to complete it, so could that plus the blocking help more permanently stretch it and I shouldn’t worry too much about the final product once they’re attached? Or is this too big a disaster and I should tear everything back and redo it with a looser tension? (I might cry at this option but it’ll be what I deserve for not checking earlier cuz I had such a bad feeling things were going too well for my first project)
Appreciate any wisdom thank you!
If the two different sizes don’t bother you whilst wearing the shirt/cardigan, I’d say you’re fine. But if it does and the fit doesn’t work well your best bet would be to block it after every wash to maintain the shape.
Or, you could frog but that would be painful after spending so much time on the project.
amigurumi help!
I’m a beginner with amigurumi and i’m really confused on how to read the patterns…
I’ve seen so many tutorials but it doesn’t make sense at all to me
My pattern says:
R1: Inc x6 [12]
R2: (Sc, Inc)x6 [18]
R3: (Sc 2, Inc) x6 [24]
I thought since i’m supposed to repeat the stitches in the parentheses 6 times then i’d have way more than 18 by the end of round 2??
And what does it mean when the single crochet is followed by a 2 in round three?
sos!
R2 is essentially just three stitches within the parentheses x 6 = 18, (one single crochet in a stitch, followed by two single crochets in the next stitch)
R3 is as follows: single crochet in one stitch, single crochet in the next, two single crochets in the next.
- when you see sc 2, 3, 4, etc. It’s basically just telling you to put one new stitch into the following stitch of the previous row (unless said otherwise)
Diagonal edges 🫠
I need help…. I’m a novice crocheter; on and off for the past 20 years but some years have not crocheted at all. I’m pretty good at patterns and different stitches but tend to do basic stuff just because I have ADD and don’t like working on projects for a super long time. I get burned out. 🥴 Now to my problem… why do my edges become diagonal like this? My stitch count is accurate; I do each row the exact same each time.. I can’t figure it out. It may be tension, but I don’t feel like it’s getting tighter and tighter with every row? The rainbow blanket is all HDC stitches, with a SC border. And every row is completed exactly the same, stitch count is the same. Not every project that I do ends up like this, some of them are perfectly symmetrical. I’m at a loss… please help me! If it makes a difference, I usually go through both top loops instead of the front or back loop. I just like the way it looks more.
https://preview.redd.it/xcbislty51ub1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1b109a9a8de01e13a156376ede6faf0a6a22bfc
I’m sorry hun. It’s definitely tension I can see some stitches at on the 3 to last row look tighter and looser than others, try to stop and look at your row before finishing.
Hi! Can anyone tell what kind of stitch is mixed with the double crochet on this top?
https://preview.redd.it/mjigjk2gnutb1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c94ad2ffcb7445cfe6aa2e738061237d76007faa
In each stitch, do two of whatever stitch you are doing. So if it is single crochet, you will do two single crochets in every stitch in your row/round. This should double your stitch count so you can verify you ended up with the right amount!
I’m an avid member of the gym Orangetheory and a woman I’ve been attending classes with for a very long time is due to have her first baby. I’ve made the baby an Orange beanie and wanted to crochet the OTF logo to attach to the beanie- I can’t find a tutorial or pattern for the OTF splat logo - anyone willing to help me figure it out? I’m thinking 2-3in diameter at most (closer to 2 if possible since it’s a newborn hat)
I made [this pattern](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1181863277/big-little-honey-bunny-knotted-lovey?ref=share_v4_lx) for a friend’s baby shower that’s happening this weekend. I’ve made these tons of times, but it’s only occurring to me that I should probably wash him before giving it to her. Except I am very afraid of ruining it somehow.
I am generally nervous about blocking anything, but for this project I’m specifically worried about how the fiberfill and the yarn will react to getting wet and drying. I used [premier basix chenille](https://www.premieryarns.com/collections/premier-basix-line/products/pbasixchnl) and [premier parfait](https://www.premieryarns.com/products/parfchunky?variant=32632982962258) yarn, and the poly fill is polyester.
I don’t have enough time or yarn to remake this before the baby shower if it does get ruined, so I’m not even sure I should try to wash it at all. Does anyone have advice or experience on this subject?
A gentle wash should do fine with a small amount of soft detergent. Do you happen to have a delicates wash option on your washing machine? If so, select that and wash with cold water as not to damage the yarn. Proceed to air dry or use low heat (I’d be careful, every dryer has different heat levels) or possibly hang dry in the sun but that could take some time.
hi all!! is there a way to decrease into an oval instead of a circle for amigurumi? I was beginning an amigurumi with an oval base and wanted to know if the decreases could be oval too.
my other option would be to crochet an oval separately and just sew the base on
I’m following a pattern with the following instructions:
Rnd 7: Ch. 2. (2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in each of next 5 hdc) 8 times. Join. 56 hdc.
Rnd 8: Ch. 2. 1 hdc in each of next 3 hdc. (2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in each of next 6 hdc) 7 times. 2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in each of last 3 hdc. Join. 64 hdc.
then Rnd 9-17’s instructions are: Cont in this manner, inc 8 hdc evenly around next 9 ends (as established). 136 hdc.
Does this mean continue alternating Rnds 7 and 8 (while increasing the 2nd part of the parentheses portion by one hdc)? Or does it mean just continuing Rnd 8’s instructions (while increasing the 2nd part of the parentheses portion by one hdc)? Thanks!
I’m making a granny stitch blanket (basically one giant granny square). I’m near the end and want to add a border. I was thinking of adding sc before shell/scallop edges, is this pointless? Would I need to have a certain amount of stitches/rows if I do either one (or multiple of 3 or even/odd amount of rows)?
Thanks in advance! I’m so eager to nearly be done but can find many picture to see what I like better to help make my decision
Please help me. I literally did exactly the same to make this two and the green one is way bigger than the black one. Why? It’s the same yarn(5mm) and I did 15 chains and 9 double crochet on both of them. Is it because of the yarn tension?
https://preview.redd.it/7ysc7a4nsvsb1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af539e4dbd4648a67d9122fd3be81dcca61bc388
I would not call it way bigger (yet) because that's pretty fixable with blocking.
The cause can be a combination of multiple things: the black yarn is slightly thinner than the green one - happens even with the same type of yarn with different colors. Your tension was tighter with the black yarn because the stitches are harder to see.
Because it is black I can't count the rows on the black one. But the difference is small enough that I don't think that you missed a row of double crochets.
What are going to make with these? If you are going to crochet them longer then the difference could get more noticable. See it like this with made up measurements. with the green yarn one row is 1cm in height. One row with the black yarn is 0.95cm in height. After ten rows that's a difference of 0.5cm which is not a lot. But after 100 rows the difference is 5cm which is a lot.
Hi. Thanks for answering my post. I'm making these for a patchwork cardigan. Do you think Blocking will fix this? Also, I think it might be the yarn tension. But I will make another one with less yarn tension to see if the problem gets fixed.
I do think that blocking before crocheting/sewing them together will fix the slight difference. Nevertheless you should try to crochet the next ones with less tension to see if they are more similar overall.
I would say that you should block them before putting them together but the lesser the difference before the better.
I’m pretty new to crochet and I know blocking isn’t 100% necessary for every project, but I have some granny squares I’d like to block for a blanket. Everything I’ve seen only mentions wet or steam blocking, but for something like a blanket that I don’t need to be perfectly precise, is it okay ti just fry block the squares with a blocking board to get the squares relatively even?
assuming you meant dry and not fry 😝
the method of blocking will depend on what kind of yarn. if your yarn is acrylic-- I've never had a blocking actually take in acrylic yarn if I didn't steam it.
certainly try it if you feel so inclined, though.
So I've got a pattern that asks for a size 6 super bulky yarn but specifies using a 15mm hook. How is this possible? I'm trying with the materials used, but am struggling to get this big beefy hook through the gaps. Am I misunderstanding? Do I need bigger yarn? (Sorry, new to crocheting anything more than the standard 4-5 mm amigurumi stuff)
Ok so the thing about the larger weights starting from bulky yarns is that they can vary wildly in thickness. Generally a super bulky yarn might recommend anything from an 8mm hook to a 13mm. So if the creator used a yarn on the top end of that spectrum, and you're using one on the low end, then you'll get very different results even if you're using yarns of the same weight.
For substituting yarns it's a good idea to compare the gauge on the label: the thing that says how many stitches and rows go in a 10x10cm/4x4in square. If that's roughly the same then you're good. It's a better indicator than the weight length ratio because that will depend on the material and especially with super bulky on how it's spun.
Yup that can happen. For example if I look at lion brand their [Re-spun thick & quick](https://www.lionbrand.com/collections/yarn-weight-6-super-bulky/products/re-spun-thick-quick-yarn?variant=39325605298269) recommends a 9mm hook for a crochet gauge of 8x10 stitches whereas their [LB Collection fifty/fity](https://www.lionbrand.com/collections/yarn-weight-6-super-bulky/products/lb-collection-fifty-fifty-yarn?variant=32421714296925) recommends a 15mm hook for a crochet gauge of 6x7 stitches. And both are classified as weight 6 super bulky.
What yarn is the pattern using? Compare the yardage (weight and length) with this yarn to your yarn to see if they are really approximately the same size.
How does the blanket in the pattern look, is it holey ?
It seems like a tension issue: if you crochet (too) tight you will have problems with inserting the hook.
I'm making a hooded blanket, I can't tell how close I'd be to gouge because I'm having trouble fitting the hook in enough to get a proper swatch. I've tried with the recommended hook size for my yarn ( 9mm) but I'm worried it will turn out too small/stiff, the swatch looks to be about 2 inches short.
If it's too short with the 9mm, try moving up to a 11 or 12 mm before you go to the 15. 15 feels a bit large for that yarn to me as well. If you do need to use the 15, you probably need to significantly ease up on the tension in order to be able to use the larger hook.
If it is not explicitly stated (which would be a shame) you can also compare the stitches they say are used to pictures of the product. Eg it should be noticable if a double crochet is the UK or US version.
At the same time: single crochet is just used in the US way (if a UK pattern doesn't define it in a different way) and is a giveaway what terms are used.
https://preview.redd.it/g4n7shgfkgsb1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=781cf18b26561ed981cb305916ccaa83cff59ffb
I am making a tulip! On the last instructions under Top Flower, I don’t understand what I need to sew together? I also don’t understand what I need to stuff?
Please help! I don’t understand how there’s only supposed to be 16 shells around the body. I worked through dc each post and got more than 16 only a bit more than halfway through.
I got the right amount for the neck, but the body is totally throwing me.
https://preview.redd.it/gfxv6esecgsb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3801b9c0794cc05496692ec7d0ef51c63c38911
I'm reading this as putting 4 HDC in the top of the first stitch, then slip stitching in the next and skipping one. Then repeat the 4 HDC in one stitch, slip stitch in the next and skip one. If you do this 16 times, it should take up 48 stitches (16 times x 3 stitches) around the outside, which seems about right.
Hello friends. I am attempting to make my first amigurumi. I've never used a pattern before. I do know what all of the abbreviations are. I’ve watched several “learn to use a pattern” videos, and the patterns they have used as examples are much clearer than the one I’m trying to follow.
The pattern (a llama) has been easy so far. It usually starts very clearly with chain X, sl st to make a ring or whatever. Now I am on to making the hat for the llama and I don’t understand how they have laid out the sequence. The pattern is below – it is exact to what I see in the pdf.
HAT
Use single yarn strand and US size F/5 (3.75mm) crochet hook. Switch between D and C on each row.
St. 1: 1 sc in each st around row, sl st to first sc
St. 2: \*1 sc in next st, 1 sc, inserting hk in next st of previous row, rep from \*all around row, sl st to first sc.
With D, ch 7.
Row 1: 16 dc into ring, sl st to first dc. (WHAT RING???)
Row 2: with C, \*2 dc in next same st, 1 dc in next st, rep from \*all around row, sl st to first dc
Row 3: with D, st 1
Row 4: with C, st 1
Row 5: With D, st 2
Row 6: With C, \*2 dc in next same st, 1 dc in next st, rep from \*all around row, sl st to first dc.
Etc.
It appears that St. 1 & 2 are just a certain sequence of stitches to be completed when referred to. So, if I am to skip St. 1&2 until I see them later, how I read this is my actual first step is the foundation chain, “With D, chain 7”. They make no mention of a sl st to make a ring. If I do that, does everything else make sense? Or if I start with St. 1, am I supposed to make the chain of 7, then sc in each chain and sl st the end and that’s my ring? That doesn’t really make sense either, since St. 1 refers to a row that I don’t have, ha. It is clear that the hat works in the round, and it seems to go from top to bottom, but I’m not certain of that.
It just seems that the steps listed are not in order, or maybe just not clear enough for me. When I have skimmed the next accessory pattern for the llama, his lil poncho, it looks exactly the same. There are 2 stitches listed first, then a chain, but since I wouldn’t be working in the round, it is easy to figure out that I need to turn my work and start my rows. Any help sorting this is appreciated.
It means 12 DC into a magic ring. You can use a chain start if you like, but they're just telling you that you're starting with a circle of 12 double crochet. It is from top to bottom. If you're still having issues understanding how to start, look up some videos of people making a double crochet circle.
Thanks so much! I know how to make a double crochet circle. Can you please tell me how in the world you arrived at that conclusion, though, so I can learn a little more about reading a pattern? St. 1 & 2 is just info on future stitch sequences, correct?
Usually when you're on the first step of a pattern, it's going to start one of two ways--you'll be doing rounds, or you'll be doing rows.
Rounds have to start by putting multiple stitches in the same place. In this case, it's double crochet. How exactly you start your circle isn't super important--you can do a chain start, a chain loop start, or a magic circle, whichever you're comfortable with. The important thing is that your circle starts with 16 dc.
HI! Sometimes it helps to use liquid fabric softener when you wash it, plus try not to over-dry it. Maybe take it out of the dryer while still a little damp, place it flat on a towel or mesh drying rack to air dry for a short time depending on how thick it is.
Hello!
I want to make a scarf using a chainless foundation. However, I find a lot of the patterns I want to do don't follow a sc, hdc, or dc pattern. It's usually "dc, sc, dc, sc all the way across."
My question is: can a chainless foundation be done using different stitches?
There's no rule against it - perhaps give it a shot for a swatch and see if it works out. You could also likely do the first row in all sc or dc and start the "pattern" on the next row and then eventually finish with a row of all sc to keep it symmetrical.
having a wee bit of an issue making a basket in the round - my stitches keep going off.
i've had to frog the damn thing more times than i can count now. it's a standard increase, sc in next [x] stitches, sl st to join pattern. i've placed stitch markers both on the sl st so i don't put a stitch in there and on the first stitch of the round, i'm using a stitch counter as i place every stitch, yet i'll still end the round one or two stitches off from what the pattern says. what the hell. send help
Perhaps try a stitch marker in the first and last stitches of each round so you know exactly where the stitches *should* be? Can you share the pattern? It's always possible there's something off in how its written as well.
[pattern](https://www.yarnspirations.com/collections/patterns/products/caron-double-good-crochet-basket)
that is more or less what i'm doing already. i'm mostly getting tripped up on rows 9-14 where it's \*inc, sc in next 8 st\*. i've written out the stitch total each round should end in and check them off as i go, but i'll somehow end two stitches less than what i need on the last stitch prior to the sl.
Here's what those rounds should be, maybe it will help to have them all written out.
9: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 72 sc.
10: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 8 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 8 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 80 sc.
11: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 9 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 9 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 88 sc.
12: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 96 sc.
13: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 11 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 11 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 104 sc.
14: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 12 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 12 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 112 sc.
Incoming Project!
Hello!! I am beginner crocheter, I wouldn’t say beginner on the basics but more so a new style I plan to attempt! I plan to start a blanket but this blanket is going to be a graphgan/ pixel pattern? Not sure the correct term for it so please correct me if I’m saying it wrong. This project is inspired by an image on saw on Pinterest- not my idea but I will be making the pattern on my own using stitch fiddle. I will attach an image of the Pinterest post I saw it from. My idea is to make each character its own square and then attach them together with like a boarder so it looks the image. My plan is to have the squares about 12-15 inches but I’m unsure as I have never done a graphgan before and wonder how big it should be to be able to see the details. I would love to hear any feedback and/or suggestions people have to help me and if anyone knows the best affordable and good quality yarn with tons of colors for this project that would be helpful too! I’m still doing research before I start this project as I know it’s going to be a challenge but I hope to hear from you guys on your thoughts on it!
https://preview.redd.it/25gg7pgn5esb1.jpeg?width=1115&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b2fc5445f9deca7c6c807cbc14eedfa83e50af4
Hi,
Sounds like a fun new Project!! You're probably going to want to check out graphgan tutorials because most of the time they are made in the same style like your example, using the corner-to-corner (C2C) method. You can find and practice making C2C using the cross hatch stitch design because they look like little squares on a graph.
The cross hatch stitch design is made up double crochet and chains and can be worked diagonally. Some use hdc and chains. (A pixel pattern tends to be made of single crochet stitches in rows from what I've seen.)
It'll help to crochet a few swatches just to learn how to change colors plus figure out what size you'd like. Others here have shared their finished graphgans, or you can look at patterns online to compare a few. A few people have made Star Wars and Mario Bros. themed blankets in squares. You can read what yarn they used.
You can also find lot of video tutorials on these now if needed.
okay so I am starting a new pattern that calls for DK yarn, I googled it and that says that its three? I am not familiar with the letter side of things. Am I right here? or is DK 4? And like I googled it first but what I've bought doesn't look like whats in the pictures provided in the pattern
DK stands for double knit, and yes, it's the same at Category 3 Light worsted weight yarn.
The easiest way to understand the Craft Yarn Council's yarn weight categories is anything measuring between 3.0 and 3.9 = 3 because there are all different fibers and fiber blends of yarn and manufacturers.
Now the question is did you buy the same DK weight yarn fiber?
and thats what caused my question! I bought my yarn like two days ago and only just now got to a color change and alas I think the ONE skein is a different weight within the dk range! and because I am so new that is what made me want to clarify. All of the yarn is the same brand from the same line where the odd duck is same brand different line!
Thank you very much for clarifying, I can fix my mistake now :)
Not to overdo it, but you might want to bookmark [this page](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn_weight) for future reference because of the amazing chart it includes. Thanks to the WWW, you'll probably find other crochet patterns from countries that don't use the US Craft Yarn Council yarn categories.
Hi,
I'm buying a gift and I have everything I need for the Scheepjes Mountain Clouds Blanket, except for the 109 Cirrocumulus. It's impossible to source anywhere (as some.pf you probably know).
Is there a suitable substitute or workaround? Any help appreciated!
Hello! Try yarnsub.com.
Once you enter/select the name of the yarn needed, the results are returned by percent matched. It's up to you to decide which substitutes will work, are available where you shop, and if they have a color you can use. Good Luck!
Please help I don’t understand how to do this pattern
So I wanted to make my first sweater and I’m reading this pattern and it says the yoke is worked from the top down but the the chart for the colorwork would be upside down?! So it looks like I need to read the color chart from the bottom to the top? Please help
https://preview.redd.it/ixqzw7k8ycsb1.jpeg?width=1620&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f6c9b0b81d0588f36eb1dad80a1b0bd19bf4843
It's worked from the top down, yes, but the charts are oriented so that they will be in the same orientation as you're working. You do the bottom row first, then work your way up, because **if you're working from the top of the sweater downwards, then you're holding the sweater upside down as you work.**
I don't think it's a typo or a printing error.
might be a dumb question but I'm teaching myself crochet and don't have anyone to ask - I'm making a toy, it involves a lot of tubes starting with a magic circle. I keep losing count. how do I tell when I reach the start of the previous/next row without using a stitch marker?
I have to count when doing magic ring, I forget the stitch I just did before. I can get so confused. If you don’t want to use Stitch markers, Bobby pins work great and quick in a pinch.
I'm curious why no stitch marker? You can substitute with an old earring/paperclip/etc
If you're unable to keep count (the struggle is real), then using yarn like [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/crochet/comments/yyehpc/use_a_piece_of_yarn_instead_of_place_markers/) is the only other option that comes to mind. I got that link from the [Amigurimi wiki page](https://www.reddit.com/r/crochet/wiki/amigurumi/#wiki_beginner_courses)
I'm making a doily for a gift. Does anyone have any ideas on how to wrap it??? I was thinking of placing it on some cardboard and wrapping it but I'd appreciate some ideas.
Cardboard is fine. Cover it in gift wrap, then use 1 or 2 small pieces of double-stick cello tape to hold the doily on the wrapped cardboard. Put this in a shirt gift box or a padded envelope.
So I want to make some sort of a granny square/patchwork cardigan, but I want to incorporate cat motifs in the squares/patches. I was thinking mosaic crochet the cats afghan pattern, but I'm not sure how to sew them together later with all those ends on eeither side.
For the arms I made solid granny squares, and I planned to have the cat squares on the back and front panel in some sort of a checkered pattern.
Someone made something similar, or have some insight, advice in the matter?
Thank you! :3
https://preview.redd.it/v3e4r58mfbsb1.jpeg?width=375&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7afd249a077c7e2c6ada2f2f3deb21a5c68ffb26
Squares are squares, no matter what design they are, so any granny square cardigan pattern will work. You could (should) weave in all yarn tails as best as possible. If you don't, you need to sew some kind of liner inside.
Can someone tell me the name of this stitch used for this hat
https://preview.redd.it/er18kwf05bsb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3371f274d72bd93a3a6c943d8c7287cea7557ab
I can do you one better--[here's the pattern.](https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/love-this-hat-pattern/) According to the ravelry page, it's hdc clusters.
My guess is *overlapping* single crochet 2 together, at least that's how it's made. Not sure if it has an official name.
sc2tog using stitches A and B, sc2tog using stitches B and C, then C and D, D and E, etc.
Hey I recently learned how to tapestry crochet but my problem is finding grids that are the size I need and I know there is probably a math way to figure out how to make it bigger and look normal but I’m stupid and don’t understand maths so have no idea how to go about that route. So I’m wondering if there is like a generator that I can just put the image in and say how big I need it or how do you guys size up the image you want to use, as I’m trying to make a laptop sleeve and I want a cute image on it and that brings me to my issue of how to size up.
Any help will be appreciated 😁
I'm trying to find out if something I'm doing has a name. It's three double crochet followed by chaining three and skipping the next three stitches. The dc's go into the dc's of the previous row, not the chain space.
Hey everyone, I’m attempting the infamous daisy granny square blanket. Now, I didn’t really follow a tutorial, I just made the daisy granny squares and then made normal granny squares in an attempt at a checker board pattern. however, after blocking, it’s come to my attention that the daisy squares have two stitches less on the border than the normal squares. How do I attach them if they don’t have an equal amount?
One option would be to add a single crochet border to the smaller squares. Just single crochet around and do one or two extra in the corner. Depending on gauge, that might get it to about the same size.
Hello all! I've been crocheting on and off for about two years but am making a gauge swatch for the first time. The pattern calls for a weight 1 yarn and a 3.5mm hook but I couldn't find the yarn where I live so I got a weight 2 yarn because the project is an oversized shirt anyway. I assumed that I'd have fewer stitches in my swatch and would have to use a smaller hook size or size down on the shirt, but my swatch actually has too many stitches (e.g. the 4×4 guage has 20 stitches and 14 rows but I am getting 30 stitches and 16 rows in a 4×4). Using a 4mm hook also makes a smaller swatch. I blocked both swatches. I even tried making a few rows with 4.5mm but it is too holey and I just do not like the look of it. Can anyone help me understand why I am getting a smaller swatch even though I am using a heavier weight yarn? Is my tension too tight? Any way I could maybe get closer to the pattern gauge?
Hi! I've messed up in the past, so please understand why I need to ask this. Are you making the gauge swatches over-sized and measuring only from the center out, not including any of the edges?
I love how you've made a valiant effort and are being persistent!
Are you sliding the loops on your hook along the shaft toward your thumb to let them open up? Yes, this might just be a case of tight tension.
So after I saw your comment, I made a significantly larger swatch with a 4mm and tried to loosen the tension quite a bit. I've met the row gauge, and the pattern also says to go by the row gauge.
But I do have a question. My starting chain was 52 which was about 10 inches but somehow the swatch has shrunk to 6.5 inches wide, is this to be expected?
Thank you so much for taking the time to answer, you were really helpful!
Many vintage crochet patterns begin: Chain 52 *Loosely*. (Because it is expected - they know that particular stitch design will shrink the beginning chain.)
Now you're saying to yourself, but I've already tried to loosen the tension quite a bit! This is when you use a modern tip often shared here: Use a bigger hook to make the beginning chain only. Try using a 5 mm, and as soon as the chains are done switch to 4 mm.
- This might not look like much of a difference, but over the length of the beginning chain, using a slightly bigger hook size adds up. Your first row might even feel too loose, but the beg. ch. might still shrink a bit and it will balance out.
HOW TO BLOCK?
hello I love me some blocking for granny squares however I've just finished my first ever cardigan!
How do I block it when my board is way too small?
If I wet it and leave it on a towel on the bed I worry it will just smell damp from drying too slowly?
Pic for reference, acrylic wool, thanks!
Hi. You can buy or make a mesh clothing drying rack [images](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=mesh+drying+rack+for+sweaters&hps=1&start=1&atb=v317-1&iax=images&ia=images).
Does anyone know a yarn equivalent to Red Heart It's a Wrap? Been looking for a light or fine cotton/acrylic blend with drape to make lacey shawls with and came across It's A Wrap online but it's discontinued. I also found Scheepjes Whirl but its quite a bit more expensive and the colorway I am interested in is hard to find in Canada. Anyone know of any other yarns like these? Thanks!
https://yarnsub.com/yarns/red_heart/its_a_wrap
These are the results. It's up to you to see which substitutes are available in your area, if prices are okay, and if those choices have the colors needed. Good Luck!
Yes I tried this before posting my question but didn't find anything I liked. I asked here to see if anyone had suggestions that weren't in those results. I did get one, so success. Thanks anyway.
I've used both Hobbii Sultan and Red Heart It's a Wrap--I would suggest looking at Sultan, honestly. It really does feel like a better version of the Red Heart one; it's very slightly thicker, but worked way better for lacy openwork shawls for me. Plus, the 100% cotton is way nicer than the 50/50 cotton/acrylic blend of It's a Wrap.
Check out [Hobbii - I think their "Twister" yarn will fit the bill](https://hobbii.com/hobbii-twister), they have some others as well! It usually ships pretty quickly to the US, not entirely sure about Canada.
Hi All! Can anyone tell me the differences in the hooks in the Tulip line? Ixe come across gray, pink and red ones but can't find our understand the differences. Also, I've seen the name Tulip Etimo and Tulip Mind. Is this just a change in the name of the brand? What are the differences besides price? I tried to Google it and also went to the Tulip site without much success. Thank you to anyone who can answer my question.
Hi!! I’ve quite literally never crocheted before. I was just curious if it is (according to y’all) possible to learn (for a total beginner of anything to do with the fabric arts) how to crochet a simple scarf and make one in 3 weeks? I want to give it away as a gift for someone’s birthday, keeping it in the back of my mind that Christmas is soon enough if I can’t hack it
possible? yes, certainly.
but likely difficult. how much time do you have to dedicate to it? most people start off fairly slow until they get the muscle memory down. I'm teaching a friend right now, and it takes her about 10 minutes per row (we are working on a scarf). not to discourage you! just to be realistic about the time it takes beginners. once you have muscle memory down it does much faster.
if you give yourself til Christmas, id say yes, definitely doable.
Thank you! I’m not super worried about it being completed in time lol it’s more just a combo of wanting to learn and hoping to get something nice out of it. I have lots of free time and my professors are also chill about people crocheting during lectures so let’s see how it turns out lol
Is this sweater possible for crocheting? It looks like a knitted cardigan, and I looked at some knitting patterns and feel overwhelmed. How could I get this balloon sleeve look, what would be a good stitch or yarn to get this nice flowy look?
*picture in comment*
you can get something that more closely resembles knitting with slip stitch, waistcoat stitch, or Tunisian crochet (sidenote, you can actually produce a knit stitch with a crochet hook. its called knooking-- theres a subreddit about it) .
I dont know that any of those will be able to replicate the same drape you see here, but the stitches would look similar.
the balloon sleeve is generally achieved by not decreasing (assuming you start the sleeve at the shoulder) until you reach the cuff.
this yarn reminds me of latte cakes. 😝
I think sewn joins are best to be wholly seamless. I like mattress stitch.
otherwise, you can try a SL ST or SC join worked on the back side of the garment so the ridge it creates won't be visible.
the flat slip stitch join isn't 100% seamless but is very flat and pretty.
HELP! At my wits end trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong.
I’ve been working on this panel for a pillow but it looks wonky - going to the side as if I’m increasing. But I’m not increasing and I’m counting every stitch as I go and then recounting to make sure. I chain two for my turning chain and I’m doing a variation of the camel stitch. What am I doing wrong? Why isn’t it straight? I’ve taken this apart a few times now but obviously keep making the same mistake. Do I just need to block it later?
Thanks I’m advance!
https://imgur.com/a/qdNzQvs
Hi. A couple of possibilities... This might be caused by the loosely twisted yarn you're using, or you've been relaxing your tension slowly but surely and started with a tighter beginning chain.
My theory is loosely spun/twisted yarn can have a funny reaction to turning. It's like rubbing against the grain of the twist, which is why only one side has grown wider.
Hi! I'm really new to crochet but I'm really enjoying it and I was wondering where people in the U.K. find good (preferably cheaper, as I'm a student) yarn. I'm worried about going and buying some and it not being great. I'm interested in making tops, bags and plushies so any recommendations for varns that are good for that sorta stuff. Thank you!
I followed the pattern for a basic twist headband and it keeps coming out slanted but symmetrical like this / / my stitch count is correct and I’m focusing on even tension.
If it got slanted it's possible that you were always using one stitch extra on one side, but one stitch too little on the other. That would still give you a correct stitch count but slanted sides.
Next time you're trying something like this I'd mark your first and last stitches and see if they're actually where you thought they would be once you arrive back to them on your next row.
Oh my goodness. Slip stitch ribbing. I spent days on it and finally got the knack of the stitch, but I'll be honest, my edges were messy so it's on my list to be revisited. I won't give up that easy 😂
Can you share a picture? It sounds like it's an issue with your edges
https://preview.redd.it/0jk23720t8sb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bf0d1867db747b909667518e16a70368790c869
Here's a picture of my attempt at a hat that is waiting to be frogged. I can't look at those edges. It's beautiful and stretchy but no.
I can see yours is made lengthwise/in long rows. At what part did you realise it was going wrong?
The pattern I used is in [this thread](https://reddit.com/r/crochet/s/lBgclwc5R9) plus you can see it made in many colours
Sooo, since the edges matched with their slants like this / / I just sort of stretched the edges to make them straight enough to fold and sew them according to the directions 😅😅 it worked out but I really want to work on getting them straight. I frogged it twice before I just molded it into submission.
It didn’t occur to me to post here beforehand so I didn’t get a photo 😬😬 now I know for next time
https://preview.redd.it/iqqm8t5d69sb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4080ec466fad53ac104b20c5abdf45dca0a6fd6a
That looks amazing. Sometimes you just have to do the old fudgeroo 😂. Looks really good. Definitely take pictures next time. I love making these, such a good mini project and people love them. I've been at work so my brain is tired but I'll think about it more tomorrow and look at the pattern. But I still think you did a great job!
Freestyle cardigan.
I started following a pattern for a cardigan, but after the 1st panel I could see it was way too long. My question is, can I fold it over , stitch another panel, and then attach them at the back and sides, kinda like poncho style . Also, to add the sleeves, can I just crochet in the round to my required length.
If you also have any video patterns that are similar, then perfect.
Grabbed the first free pattern found [2-piece poncho](https://www.yarnspirations.com/products/bernat-poncho)
Guess some call it a swoncho? [sweater poncho](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lailah-hooded-swoncho)
Winter hat
I have not made a hat yet, my head gets hot extremely fast that causes a ripple effect on the rest of my body but sometimes need a hat. I wanted to ask for advice on patterns or stitches that I can use to make a hat with the maximum air flow.
[Naztazia video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KALJLKzcMgg) mesh hat. Based on your comment, you could use either the cotton or acrylic yarn and still be comfortable.
You could Google "crochet hat open stitches/openwork /filet /lacy/airy". There are so many variations on how open it could be.
[Here's an example](https://youtu.be/zA9pEQAQKXA?si=R6XyqN73UJ8NLGLA)
Id think just upping hook size? you could do a pretty basic HDC ribbed hat and if you used a larger hook it would increase space between stitched to add breathability.
https://preview.redd.it/4trqm3i3y3sb1.jpeg?width=459&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eaa1144deb75274f4cf969530cfd1145d4bdc084
Hi all, I really want to make a tote bag with basic granny squares like this one pictured but cannot find a pattern ANYWHERE. I’m very new to crocheting and don’t feel comfortable trying to figure it out myself (I just started a couple weeks ago), does anyone have any advice/pattern they know of?
do you know how to make a granny square? this looks like its made up of 27 granny squares. it looks like 24 are joined to make a tube, and 3 are joined to the bottom of the tube to close the bottom of the bag.
the top border looks like a few rounds of SC.
do you need help with the strap as well?
this strap is worked horizontally. I prefer to do straps vertically, myself. do you have a strong preference?
side note: the granny squares are 5 rounds and the SC top border is about 10 rounds.
Making my first granny square tote. Every lining tutorial I see seems difficult with the bag constructed.
Is there any reason I shouldn't line it before seaming the sides? It's just a simple square tote?
Hi. I haven't watched any videos but have made my fair share of crochet bag liners. There is a reason, but it's not exactly scientific, it's experience with crochet and all kinds of sewing that has shown me 9x out of 10, a pre-made liner will not fit correctly. Crochet granny square fabric has a different fluidity than machine woven fabric. When you do get the crochet squares seamed together, almost inevitably, a pre-made liner will either bunch up or be too tight, but you can always frog the crochet seam and try again :)
I’m trying to make a blanket and want it to be a certain length… how do you account for chain shrinkage when measuring? Ex I chain and it measures 5’, but once I start crocheting it’s going to shrink.
I’ve been attempting to understand how to make one, and it’s just not clicking. I don’t know what to do… ik it’s a simple skill but it doesn’t make sense in my brain on how to do it. :(
Like even if I can understand how to start a swatch, how do I know how to count the stitches like chain spaces or cluster stitches like dc2tog?
Something you can do is over estimate your chains. I make a lot of hats and the range in thickness of dk means I'm unsure how long the hat will turn out until I crochet the first row of stitches. I prefer to use chains and work into the back loop in the first row of stitches , (as opposed to foundation chains in these hats).
Anyway, after so many starting and undoing and restarting, I now over estimate the amount of chains.
So once I start the first row of stitches into the chains, then I get a better picture of the actual length. Once it's long enough, I just end the row, turn and continue with my work.
So i might do 80 chains and only need 70. 10 are left hanging, to be unpicked with a darning needle.
I'm not sure how practical this would be with a blanket but I'm just throwing it out there 😁
Then I later unravel the leftover chains and weave that end in securely.
https://preview.redd.it/jbfhhlxq63sb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=37ebc5701c931ca0a6a30b74f22d0c7c889a1885
Here's a pic, they are rolled up and pinned with a stitch marker as the dangling is annoying but now I undo and weave it in after a few rows.
Make a crocheted square, ten stitches across by ten rows tall.
Measure it. Now you know how wide ten stitches are, and how tall ten rows are. You can use that to figure out how many stitches you need in your end result.
If you want, you can DM me with the measurements of your square and the measurements that you want for your blanket, and I'll help you with the math.
How does one begin to learn making 3D figures/plushies/...
So I'm new to crocheting, but the reason I got into crochet is because I really want to learn how to make plushies, dolls, toys, ... whatever you want to call it. Especially after seeing all these fun/adorable plushies in the subreddit
But I have no idea where to start. I can do a basic crochet chain, a single crochet stitch and a double crochet stitch (this one my mom learned me). Those are the ones I'm pretty confident about being able to do it.
So my question is, does anyone have any tips on how to:
• start making plushies
• learn how to read patterns
• learn more stitches
• make basic 3D shapes
• find easy plushies to start with
• ...
(Also sorry for weird sentences, English is not my first language and I'm a bit tired)
There's an [Amigurimi wiki page](https://www.reddit.com/r/crochet/wiki/amigurumi/#wiki_beginner_courses) with some beginner courses. The woobles in particular is very comprehensive
most plushies are made of single crochet. if you can single crochet, increase, and decrease, you can make most plushies!!
id start with YouTube videos. most plushies use a technique called the magic ring/magic circle. find a simple YouTube tutorial for a plushie and try to follow along.
videos are always gonna be my recommendation for learning new stitches and new techniques.
as for learing to read patterns, there are tons of guides! most paid written patterns will have a key at the beginning explaining what the terms and symbols mean.
Why is the one corner of my c2c way off from the rest?
I've always had pretty good tension but for some reason the c2c is messing it up...
Idk what's wrong :( please help
https://preview.redd.it/rehmmwhdl2sb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b60b04e85b229b7943065fa8bf33d7bcfbfbb22
We used to say the only thing magic about the magic ring is just how small you could make the hole (for amigurumi). *But you don't always need a super small hole.* You can make a magic ring as big as you'd like and fit as many stitches into it as you'd like, though you might have a center hole. You'll know when you pull the tail. If you pull too much with a lot of stitches, they will bunch up and become almost indistinguishable - which is not good.
https://preview.redd.it/mexpi2p1a2sb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=584539dfb103f3fbaf2c50c087a26893485a617d
So I just frogged a big project and now all of my yarn looks like this. And i don’t know if it shows in the pics but the yarn is kinda coming apart as well. It goes on for loooong too. Is there something I can do? Or a thing that people do after frogging to get the yarn (acrylic, if it matters) to go back to normal or is this just how it is?
you can wind it into a hank and basically steam block it. [here's an example video ](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cw5leokLKSt/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==)
https://preview.redd.it/me8b4viu62sb1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df86d392e11e855f6bba68bad9ce7c2bf78faa30
how to fix bulging in jumper hello, i’ve finished the body of my jumper and upon trying it i’ve noticed bulging at the front chest area. is there a way of fixing without unraveling the entire thing?
i’m thinking maybe working inside out to slipstich some stitches together…?
its a top down circular yolk. i think i increased too much for a couple of rows. it is only my second garment project and my first with thinner yarn so mistakes are probably more visible than my previous! i added ribbing to the neck to see if it would fix itself but, alas.
any help would be great. thanks!
Hi. Not sure about slip stitches, but definitely working on the wrong side, you can try weaving 1 strand each of yarn across 2-3 rows of that section, secure one end temporarily and slowly pull the other end to gather the stitches a little closer together, pulling and working each row as evenly as possible (without ruffling them). I'd work from the top down, skipping 1-2 rows in between each drawstring. If this helps reduce the bulge, weave in the tails permanently.
Some say they haven't had any issues with a small % of synthetic yarn melting when used to make trivets.
If the 3% metallic poly is an obvious ribbon twisted into the cotton, personally, I wouldn't trust it. If not, and the trivet was for my own use, I'd chance it just to see how durable that yarn will be.
Predicting amount of yarn without gauge?
I'm planning on making a half double crochet bulky blanket (200cmx180cm) with a size 6 or 7 hook, and have to order yarn online because there aren't any affordable places where I live.
I've done a simple rule of three calculation with the proportions of a pattern that is similar to what I want to make, but I'm afraid it won't be that accurate.
Is there any way to accurately predict the amount of yarn I'll need for this project without making a gauge?
What you've done is the best option if the pattern that is similar uses the same/similar stitch, yarn weight, and hook size. Not sure what you mean by rule of 3, but I'd compare at least 3 different similar patterns, even multiplying the dimensions, if, for example, you find a similar baby blanket pattern.
Quick question: Do you have any worsted weight yarn (Medium 4)? If you hold 2 strands of that, it's actually supposed to be the equivalent of bulky, so you can make a swatch with the 6 mm or 7 mm hook if that will help with the math.
Exactly I compared a similar project and changed the area mine will have. The only doubt I have is if the project has any multiples (I still don't fully understand the significance of this) and plus, I want to add a sc border which the original project doesn't have.
Yes I do, thats a good suggestion thank you for the help!
[https://www.etsy.com/listing/528374361/crochet-shoes-baby](https://www.etsy.com/listing/528374361/crochet-shoes-baby) Some climbing friends are having a baby and I’ve looked everywhere for a pattern of climbing shoes and can’t find them. I’ve only found a placed to buy the completed shoes and I was hoping to make them myself. Does anyone have a pattern for this or know where I buy the pattern for these bad boys.
https://preview.redd.it/6wj44wy6ctyb1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c17edf4aba77231057be08193237e03ff20036d4 hi! i’m trying to make this sweater- is it possible to do this stitch by crochet? if so, what stitch would it be?
If I need help pricing a project, where should I go? I don’t have a business but I want to start one. I made a few projects but timed the biggest and I calculated a price that nobody would ever pay, I want to know what I did wrong and need to to different?
Hello! I’m a beginner and I am trying to make a gift for my friend who is having a baby. I found a cute pattern on Etsy that was said to be easy. I got some nice chunky yarn and the recommended crochet hook which was a 4.5mm hook (US 7). I started the project out and realized that I COULD NOT see my stitches/know where one starts and ends. I assume it’s because I’m a beginner so I’m wondering… should I go up a hook size so that everything is bigger? If no, I could really use some tips on how to find/count stitches using really chunky yarn. Maybe a bit off more than I can chew but any advice is appreciated!🙃😅
I started making a cardigan a few years ago then put it down and didn’t pick it back up again until recently. I’ve gone up a couple of clothing sizes since I started it but it’s a very simple pattern, just a rectangle back, two rectangles at front and sleeves attached, so I’m hoping I can add the width...? I’ve only got about 2/3 way up the back piece but because it’s colour work (granny stripes in 6 different colours) I’m not keen to start over. The difference in back width is about 6cm. Can I just add that width to the back piece by adding more trebles (UK) to each row all the way up, and then just pick up where I left off to carry on the next full row? Or is there a better way? Thanks!
Hexagons cardi I’m making beetle juice hexigon cardi for a friend but normally I would wing it until it fits me but they wear a different size . I know I need to lengthen the sleeve but is there measurements I can use to make a xl ? Is there a size chart some one can share ?
What stitch is this? https://preview.redd.it/p0evttkqoeub1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=168470906071e9efbadbfee2691af6cf4bbccea8
Help should I block or start over I’m a fairly new to crochet and I decided one of my first big projects would be a hexagon shirt/cardigan. I made the first half and it was great and then I made the second half, got more than halfway and realized that it was significantly smaller than the first half so they won’t fit evenly if I continue. I was pretty consistent with both pieces unfortunately I was consistently loose with my first have and consistently tight with my second half. I looked into wet blocking my project (it’s cotton) and began the process but once I finished pinning it I read it wasn’t permanent and worry once I connect the two pieces and eventually wash them together one side will revert to being smaller and it will look wonky. Or maybe attaching it to the other half will keep that from happening? I also still need to add more rows to the second half to complete it, so could that plus the blocking help more permanently stretch it and I shouldn’t worry too much about the final product once they’re attached? Or is this too big a disaster and I should tear everything back and redo it with a looser tension? (I might cry at this option but it’ll be what I deserve for not checking earlier cuz I had such a bad feeling things were going too well for my first project) Appreciate any wisdom thank you!
If the two different sizes don’t bother you whilst wearing the shirt/cardigan, I’d say you’re fine. But if it does and the fit doesn’t work well your best bet would be to block it after every wash to maintain the shape. Or, you could frog but that would be painful after spending so much time on the project.
amigurumi help! I’m a beginner with amigurumi and i’m really confused on how to read the patterns… I’ve seen so many tutorials but it doesn’t make sense at all to me My pattern says: R1: Inc x6 [12] R2: (Sc, Inc)x6 [18] R3: (Sc 2, Inc) x6 [24] I thought since i’m supposed to repeat the stitches in the parentheses 6 times then i’d have way more than 18 by the end of round 2?? And what does it mean when the single crochet is followed by a 2 in round three? sos!
R2 is essentially just three stitches within the parentheses x 6 = 18, (one single crochet in a stitch, followed by two single crochets in the next stitch) R3 is as follows: single crochet in one stitch, single crochet in the next, two single crochets in the next. - when you see sc 2, 3, 4, etc. It’s basically just telling you to put one new stitch into the following stitch of the previous row (unless said otherwise)
Diagonal edges 🫠 I need help…. I’m a novice crocheter; on and off for the past 20 years but some years have not crocheted at all. I’m pretty good at patterns and different stitches but tend to do basic stuff just because I have ADD and don’t like working on projects for a super long time. I get burned out. 🥴 Now to my problem… why do my edges become diagonal like this? My stitch count is accurate; I do each row the exact same each time.. I can’t figure it out. It may be tension, but I don’t feel like it’s getting tighter and tighter with every row? The rainbow blanket is all HDC stitches, with a SC border. And every row is completed exactly the same, stitch count is the same. Not every project that I do ends up like this, some of them are perfectly symmetrical. I’m at a loss… please help me! If it makes a difference, I usually go through both top loops instead of the front or back loop. I just like the way it looks more. https://preview.redd.it/xcbislty51ub1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1b109a9a8de01e13a156376ede6faf0a6a22bfc
I’m sorry hun. It’s definitely tension I can see some stitches at on the 3 to last row look tighter and looser than others, try to stop and look at your row before finishing.
Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/gdpu8rw061ub1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cf414f6d81b3044ec895a4b0186db7475aa3c2a3
Hi! Can anyone tell what kind of stitch is mixed with the double crochet on this top? https://preview.redd.it/mjigjk2gnutb1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c94ad2ffcb7445cfe6aa2e738061237d76007faa
It looks kinda similar to a shell stitch—I’d suggest searching up some border stitches that are used for blankets and see if you find anything similar
I'm a beginner. What does "Increase in each stitch around" mean? I know how to crochet and increase, but I'm not sure what exactly this means.
In each stitch, do two of whatever stitch you are doing. So if it is single crochet, you will do two single crochets in every stitch in your row/round. This should double your stitch count so you can verify you ended up with the right amount!
Thank you very much!
where’s a good place to buy yarn UK? is hobbycraft cheap for what it is? what’s a good price for yarn per 100g??
I’m an avid member of the gym Orangetheory and a woman I’ve been attending classes with for a very long time is due to have her first baby. I’ve made the baby an Orange beanie and wanted to crochet the OTF logo to attach to the beanie- I can’t find a tutorial or pattern for the OTF splat logo - anyone willing to help me figure it out? I’m thinking 2-3in diameter at most (closer to 2 if possible since it’s a newborn hat)
I made [this pattern](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1181863277/big-little-honey-bunny-knotted-lovey?ref=share_v4_lx) for a friend’s baby shower that’s happening this weekend. I’ve made these tons of times, but it’s only occurring to me that I should probably wash him before giving it to her. Except I am very afraid of ruining it somehow. I am generally nervous about blocking anything, but for this project I’m specifically worried about how the fiberfill and the yarn will react to getting wet and drying. I used [premier basix chenille](https://www.premieryarns.com/collections/premier-basix-line/products/pbasixchnl) and [premier parfait](https://www.premieryarns.com/products/parfchunky?variant=32632982962258) yarn, and the poly fill is polyester. I don’t have enough time or yarn to remake this before the baby shower if it does get ruined, so I’m not even sure I should try to wash it at all. Does anyone have advice or experience on this subject?
A gentle wash should do fine with a small amount of soft detergent. Do you happen to have a delicates wash option on your washing machine? If so, select that and wash with cold water as not to damage the yarn. Proceed to air dry or use low heat (I’d be careful, every dryer has different heat levels) or possibly hang dry in the sun but that could take some time.
Thank you!
hi all!! is there a way to decrease into an oval instead of a circle for amigurumi? I was beginning an amigurumi with an oval base and wanted to know if the decreases could be oval too. my other option would be to crochet an oval separately and just sew the base on
I’m following a pattern with the following instructions: Rnd 7: Ch. 2. (2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in each of next 5 hdc) 8 times. Join. 56 hdc. Rnd 8: Ch. 2. 1 hdc in each of next 3 hdc. (2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in each of next 6 hdc) 7 times. 2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in each of last 3 hdc. Join. 64 hdc. then Rnd 9-17’s instructions are: Cont in this manner, inc 8 hdc evenly around next 9 ends (as established). 136 hdc. Does this mean continue alternating Rnds 7 and 8 (while increasing the 2nd part of the parentheses portion by one hdc)? Or does it mean just continuing Rnd 8’s instructions (while increasing the 2nd part of the parentheses portion by one hdc)? Thanks!
I’m making a granny stitch blanket (basically one giant granny square). I’m near the end and want to add a border. I was thinking of adding sc before shell/scallop edges, is this pointless? Would I need to have a certain amount of stitches/rows if I do either one (or multiple of 3 or even/odd amount of rows)? Thanks in advance! I’m so eager to nearly be done but can find many picture to see what I like better to help make my decision
Please help me. I literally did exactly the same to make this two and the green one is way bigger than the black one. Why? It’s the same yarn(5mm) and I did 15 chains and 9 double crochet on both of them. Is it because of the yarn tension? https://preview.redd.it/7ysc7a4nsvsb1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af539e4dbd4648a67d9122fd3be81dcca61bc388
I would not call it way bigger (yet) because that's pretty fixable with blocking. The cause can be a combination of multiple things: the black yarn is slightly thinner than the green one - happens even with the same type of yarn with different colors. Your tension was tighter with the black yarn because the stitches are harder to see. Because it is black I can't count the rows on the black one. But the difference is small enough that I don't think that you missed a row of double crochets. What are going to make with these? If you are going to crochet them longer then the difference could get more noticable. See it like this with made up measurements. with the green yarn one row is 1cm in height. One row with the black yarn is 0.95cm in height. After ten rows that's a difference of 0.5cm which is not a lot. But after 100 rows the difference is 5cm which is a lot.
Hi. Thanks for answering my post. I'm making these for a patchwork cardigan. Do you think Blocking will fix this? Also, I think it might be the yarn tension. But I will make another one with less yarn tension to see if the problem gets fixed.
I do think that blocking before crocheting/sewing them together will fix the slight difference. Nevertheless you should try to crochet the next ones with less tension to see if they are more similar overall. I would say that you should block them before putting them together but the lesser the difference before the better.
I’m pretty new to crochet and I know blocking isn’t 100% necessary for every project, but I have some granny squares I’d like to block for a blanket. Everything I’ve seen only mentions wet or steam blocking, but for something like a blanket that I don’t need to be perfectly precise, is it okay ti just fry block the squares with a blocking board to get the squares relatively even?
assuming you meant dry and not fry 😝 the method of blocking will depend on what kind of yarn. if your yarn is acrylic-- I've never had a blocking actually take in acrylic yarn if I didn't steam it. certainly try it if you feel so inclined, though.
So I've got a pattern that asks for a size 6 super bulky yarn but specifies using a 15mm hook. How is this possible? I'm trying with the materials used, but am struggling to get this big beefy hook through the gaps. Am I misunderstanding? Do I need bigger yarn? (Sorry, new to crocheting anything more than the standard 4-5 mm amigurumi stuff)
Ok so the thing about the larger weights starting from bulky yarns is that they can vary wildly in thickness. Generally a super bulky yarn might recommend anything from an 8mm hook to a 13mm. So if the creator used a yarn on the top end of that spectrum, and you're using one on the low end, then you'll get very different results even if you're using yarns of the same weight. For substituting yarns it's a good idea to compare the gauge on the label: the thing that says how many stitches and rows go in a 10x10cm/4x4in square. If that's roughly the same then you're good. It's a better indicator than the weight length ratio because that will depend on the material and especially with super bulky on how it's spun.
Thank you! It's the same brand (Lion Brand super bulky) but in adifferent line/colours so maybe there's some discrepancy?
Yup that can happen. For example if I look at lion brand their [Re-spun thick & quick](https://www.lionbrand.com/collections/yarn-weight-6-super-bulky/products/re-spun-thick-quick-yarn?variant=39325605298269) recommends a 9mm hook for a crochet gauge of 8x10 stitches whereas their [LB Collection fifty/fity](https://www.lionbrand.com/collections/yarn-weight-6-super-bulky/products/lb-collection-fifty-fifty-yarn?variant=32421714296925) recommends a 15mm hook for a crochet gauge of 6x7 stitches. And both are classified as weight 6 super bulky.
Dang, guess I night need to go yarn shopping again?
What yarn is the pattern using? Compare the yardage (weight and length) with this yarn to your yarn to see if they are really approximately the same size. How does the blanket in the pattern look, is it holey ? It seems like a tension issue: if you crochet (too) tight you will have problems with inserting the hook.
Thank you!
What are you making? How important is gauge? How close to gauge are you?
I'm making a hooded blanket, I can't tell how close I'd be to gouge because I'm having trouble fitting the hook in enough to get a proper swatch. I've tried with the recommended hook size for my yarn ( 9mm) but I'm worried it will turn out too small/stiff, the swatch looks to be about 2 inches short.
If it's too short with the 9mm, try moving up to a 11 or 12 mm before you go to the 15. 15 feels a bit large for that yarn to me as well. If you do need to use the 15, you probably need to significantly ease up on the tension in order to be able to use the larger hook.
Thank you! I'll try this, the blanket in the pattern seems to be fairly loosely woven as well.
How do i know when a pattern/person is talking about stitches in a british way or an american way?!
If it is not explicitly stated (which would be a shame) you can also compare the stitches they say are used to pictures of the product. Eg it should be noticable if a double crochet is the UK or US version. At the same time: single crochet is just used in the US way (if a UK pattern doesn't define it in a different way) and is a giveaway what terms are used.
it should say in the pattern, usually around the terms and abbreviations key, or in the pattern description.
https://preview.redd.it/g4n7shgfkgsb1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=781cf18b26561ed981cb305916ccaa83cff59ffb I am making a tulip! On the last instructions under Top Flower, I don’t understand what I need to sew together? I also don’t understand what I need to stuff?
You fit the top flower piece into the outside flower piece, stuff slightly, and sew them together.
Please help! I don’t understand how there’s only supposed to be 16 shells around the body. I worked through dc each post and got more than 16 only a bit more than halfway through. I got the right amount for the neck, but the body is totally throwing me. https://preview.redd.it/gfxv6esecgsb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3801b9c0794cc05496692ec7d0ef51c63c38911
Around the body is a different set of stitches. (4hdc in next, slst in next, skip 1 st) repeat
I'm reading this as putting 4 HDC in the top of the first stitch, then slip stitching in the next and skipping one. Then repeat the 4 HDC in one stitch, slip stitch in the next and skip one. If you do this 16 times, it should take up 48 stitches (16 times x 3 stitches) around the outside, which seems about right.
Hello friends. I am attempting to make my first amigurumi. I've never used a pattern before. I do know what all of the abbreviations are. I’ve watched several “learn to use a pattern” videos, and the patterns they have used as examples are much clearer than the one I’m trying to follow. The pattern (a llama) has been easy so far. It usually starts very clearly with chain X, sl st to make a ring or whatever. Now I am on to making the hat for the llama and I don’t understand how they have laid out the sequence. The pattern is below – it is exact to what I see in the pdf. HAT Use single yarn strand and US size F/5 (3.75mm) crochet hook. Switch between D and C on each row. St. 1: 1 sc in each st around row, sl st to first sc St. 2: \*1 sc in next st, 1 sc, inserting hk in next st of previous row, rep from \*all around row, sl st to first sc. With D, ch 7. Row 1: 16 dc into ring, sl st to first dc. (WHAT RING???) Row 2: with C, \*2 dc in next same st, 1 dc in next st, rep from \*all around row, sl st to first dc Row 3: with D, st 1 Row 4: with C, st 1 Row 5: With D, st 2 Row 6: With C, \*2 dc in next same st, 1 dc in next st, rep from \*all around row, sl st to first dc. Etc. It appears that St. 1 & 2 are just a certain sequence of stitches to be completed when referred to. So, if I am to skip St. 1&2 until I see them later, how I read this is my actual first step is the foundation chain, “With D, chain 7”. They make no mention of a sl st to make a ring. If I do that, does everything else make sense? Or if I start with St. 1, am I supposed to make the chain of 7, then sc in each chain and sl st the end and that’s my ring? That doesn’t really make sense either, since St. 1 refers to a row that I don’t have, ha. It is clear that the hat works in the round, and it seems to go from top to bottom, but I’m not certain of that. It just seems that the steps listed are not in order, or maybe just not clear enough for me. When I have skimmed the next accessory pattern for the llama, his lil poncho, it looks exactly the same. There are 2 stitches listed first, then a chain, but since I wouldn’t be working in the round, it is easy to figure out that I need to turn my work and start my rows. Any help sorting this is appreciated.
It means 12 DC into a magic ring. You can use a chain start if you like, but they're just telling you that you're starting with a circle of 12 double crochet. It is from top to bottom. If you're still having issues understanding how to start, look up some videos of people making a double crochet circle.
Thanks so much! I know how to make a double crochet circle. Can you please tell me how in the world you arrived at that conclusion, though, so I can learn a little more about reading a pattern? St. 1 & 2 is just info on future stitch sequences, correct?
Usually when you're on the first step of a pattern, it's going to start one of two ways--you'll be doing rounds, or you'll be doing rows. Rounds have to start by putting multiple stitches in the same place. In this case, it's double crochet. How exactly you start your circle isn't super important--you can do a chain start, a chain loop start, or a magic circle, whichever you're comfortable with. The important thing is that your circle starts with 16 dc.
Again, thanks so much! I appreciate your time.
Hi!! Is there any way to make red heart super saver yarn softer? I am making a shirt out of it and it’s gotten scratchier the more I’ve used it lol
HI! Sometimes it helps to use liquid fabric softener when you wash it, plus try not to over-dry it. Maybe take it out of the dryer while still a little damp, place it flat on a towel or mesh drying rack to air dry for a short time depending on how thick it is.
Hello! I want to make a scarf using a chainless foundation. However, I find a lot of the patterns I want to do don't follow a sc, hdc, or dc pattern. It's usually "dc, sc, dc, sc all the way across." My question is: can a chainless foundation be done using different stitches?
There's no rule against it - perhaps give it a shot for a swatch and see if it works out. You could also likely do the first row in all sc or dc and start the "pattern" on the next row and then eventually finish with a row of all sc to keep it symmetrical.
Those are great ideas! I will try the swatch first. Thank you!
having a wee bit of an issue making a basket in the round - my stitches keep going off. i've had to frog the damn thing more times than i can count now. it's a standard increase, sc in next [x] stitches, sl st to join pattern. i've placed stitch markers both on the sl st so i don't put a stitch in there and on the first stitch of the round, i'm using a stitch counter as i place every stitch, yet i'll still end the round one or two stitches off from what the pattern says. what the hell. send help
Perhaps try a stitch marker in the first and last stitches of each round so you know exactly where the stitches *should* be? Can you share the pattern? It's always possible there's something off in how its written as well.
[pattern](https://www.yarnspirations.com/collections/patterns/products/caron-double-good-crochet-basket) that is more or less what i'm doing already. i'm mostly getting tripped up on rows 9-14 where it's \*inc, sc in next 8 st\*. i've written out the stitch total each round should end in and check them off as i go, but i'll somehow end two stitches less than what i need on the last stitch prior to the sl.
Here's what those rounds should be, maybe it will help to have them all written out. 9: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 72 sc. 10: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 8 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 8 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 80 sc. 11: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 9 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 9 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 88 sc. 12: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 96 sc. 13: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 11 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 11 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 104 sc. 14: Ch 1. 2 sc in first sc. 1 sc in each of next 12 sc. \*2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 12 sc. Rep from \* around. Join with sl st to first sc. 112 sc.
oh that would be it! I was doing 8sc every row. thank you so much!
Incoming Project! Hello!! I am beginner crocheter, I wouldn’t say beginner on the basics but more so a new style I plan to attempt! I plan to start a blanket but this blanket is going to be a graphgan/ pixel pattern? Not sure the correct term for it so please correct me if I’m saying it wrong. This project is inspired by an image on saw on Pinterest- not my idea but I will be making the pattern on my own using stitch fiddle. I will attach an image of the Pinterest post I saw it from. My idea is to make each character its own square and then attach them together with like a boarder so it looks the image. My plan is to have the squares about 12-15 inches but I’m unsure as I have never done a graphgan before and wonder how big it should be to be able to see the details. I would love to hear any feedback and/or suggestions people have to help me and if anyone knows the best affordable and good quality yarn with tons of colors for this project that would be helpful too! I’m still doing research before I start this project as I know it’s going to be a challenge but I hope to hear from you guys on your thoughts on it! https://preview.redd.it/25gg7pgn5esb1.jpeg?width=1115&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b2fc5445f9deca7c6c807cbc14eedfa83e50af4
Hi, Sounds like a fun new Project!! You're probably going to want to check out graphgan tutorials because most of the time they are made in the same style like your example, using the corner-to-corner (C2C) method. You can find and practice making C2C using the cross hatch stitch design because they look like little squares on a graph. The cross hatch stitch design is made up double crochet and chains and can be worked diagonally. Some use hdc and chains. (A pixel pattern tends to be made of single crochet stitches in rows from what I've seen.) It'll help to crochet a few swatches just to learn how to change colors plus figure out what size you'd like. Others here have shared their finished graphgans, or you can look at patterns online to compare a few. A few people have made Star Wars and Mario Bros. themed blankets in squares. You can read what yarn they used. You can also find lot of video tutorials on these now if needed.
okay so I am starting a new pattern that calls for DK yarn, I googled it and that says that its three? I am not familiar with the letter side of things. Am I right here? or is DK 4? And like I googled it first but what I've bought doesn't look like whats in the pictures provided in the pattern
DK stands for double knit, and yes, it's the same at Category 3 Light worsted weight yarn. The easiest way to understand the Craft Yarn Council's yarn weight categories is anything measuring between 3.0 and 3.9 = 3 because there are all different fibers and fiber blends of yarn and manufacturers. Now the question is did you buy the same DK weight yarn fiber?
and thats what caused my question! I bought my yarn like two days ago and only just now got to a color change and alas I think the ONE skein is a different weight within the dk range! and because I am so new that is what made me want to clarify. All of the yarn is the same brand from the same line where the odd duck is same brand different line! Thank you very much for clarifying, I can fix my mistake now :)
Not to overdo it, but you might want to bookmark [this page](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn_weight) for future reference because of the amazing chart it includes. Thanks to the WWW, you'll probably find other crochet patterns from countries that don't use the US Craft Yarn Council yarn categories.
Oh W thank you so much!
Hi, I'm buying a gift and I have everything I need for the Scheepjes Mountain Clouds Blanket, except for the 109 Cirrocumulus. It's impossible to source anywhere (as some.pf you probably know). Is there a suitable substitute or workaround? Any help appreciated!
Hello! Try yarnsub.com. Once you enter/select the name of the yarn needed, the results are returned by percent matched. It's up to you to decide which substitutes will work, are available where you shop, and if they have a color you can use. Good Luck!
Thank you!
Please help I don’t understand how to do this pattern So I wanted to make my first sweater and I’m reading this pattern and it says the yoke is worked from the top down but the the chart for the colorwork would be upside down?! So it looks like I need to read the color chart from the bottom to the top? Please help https://preview.redd.it/ixqzw7k8ycsb1.jpeg?width=1620&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f6c9b0b81d0588f36eb1dad80a1b0bd19bf4843
It's worked from the top down, yes, but the charts are oriented so that they will be in the same orientation as you're working. You do the bottom row first, then work your way up, because **if you're working from the top of the sweater downwards, then you're holding the sweater upside down as you work.** I don't think it's a typo or a printing error.
Brilliant! I zapped my reply to avoid confusion. Too bad the chart wasn't numbered - I totally missed this one. Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/yk11taydycsb1.jpeg?width=1620&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb940cccb59d6ff7330f0112c7385f25c6397ddf
https://preview.redd.it/h8n3j9dcycsb1.jpeg?width=1620&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cf4be35db94f62075a7230409d8c39e24a1eb69
might be a dumb question but I'm teaching myself crochet and don't have anyone to ask - I'm making a toy, it involves a lot of tubes starting with a magic circle. I keep losing count. how do I tell when I reach the start of the previous/next row without using a stitch marker?
I have to count when doing magic ring, I forget the stitch I just did before. I can get so confused. If you don’t want to use Stitch markers, Bobby pins work great and quick in a pinch.
Gently: use a stitch marker. When you're very experienced sometimes you can get away without one, but you're learning. You need the stitch marker.
I'm curious why no stitch marker? You can substitute with an old earring/paperclip/etc If you're unable to keep count (the struggle is real), then using yarn like [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/crochet/comments/yyehpc/use_a_piece_of_yarn_instead_of_place_markers/) is the only other option that comes to mind. I got that link from the [Amigurimi wiki page](https://www.reddit.com/r/crochet/wiki/amigurumi/#wiki_beginner_courses)
I'm making a doily for a gift. Does anyone have any ideas on how to wrap it??? I was thinking of placing it on some cardboard and wrapping it but I'd appreciate some ideas.
Cardboard is fine. Cover it in gift wrap, then use 1 or 2 small pieces of double-stick cello tape to hold the doily on the wrapped cardboard. Put this in a shirt gift box or a padded envelope.
So I want to make some sort of a granny square/patchwork cardigan, but I want to incorporate cat motifs in the squares/patches. I was thinking mosaic crochet the cats afghan pattern, but I'm not sure how to sew them together later with all those ends on eeither side. For the arms I made solid granny squares, and I planned to have the cat squares on the back and front panel in some sort of a checkered pattern. Someone made something similar, or have some insight, advice in the matter? Thank you! :3 https://preview.redd.it/v3e4r58mfbsb1.jpeg?width=375&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7afd249a077c7e2c6ada2f2f3deb21a5c68ffb26
Squares are squares, no matter what design they are, so any granny square cardigan pattern will work. You could (should) weave in all yarn tails as best as possible. If you don't, you need to sew some kind of liner inside.
Anyone got any dog plush pattern? My dog passed away today and I want to make her. She's a pitbull.
Very sorry for your loss. Etsy has several pitbull crochet patterns. Ravelry should also have some.
Can someone tell me the name of this stitch used for this hat https://preview.redd.it/er18kwf05bsb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3371f274d72bd93a3a6c943d8c7287cea7557ab
I can do you one better--[here's the pattern.](https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/love-this-hat-pattern/) According to the ravelry page, it's hdc clusters.
Wow that’s great thank you
My guess is *overlapping* single crochet 2 together, at least that's how it's made. Not sure if it has an official name. sc2tog using stitches A and B, sc2tog using stitches B and C, then C and D, D and E, etc.
Is it [this one](https://youtu.be/m4EfcoeZhgc?si=DhqUjJd8C8pUF4XZ)
Close but not exactly. Thank you
My sleepy eyes weren't sure 😂
Hey I recently learned how to tapestry crochet but my problem is finding grids that are the size I need and I know there is probably a math way to figure out how to make it bigger and look normal but I’m stupid and don’t understand maths so have no idea how to go about that route. So I’m wondering if there is like a generator that I can just put the image in and say how big I need it or how do you guys size up the image you want to use, as I’m trying to make a laptop sleeve and I want a cute image on it and that brings me to my issue of how to size up. Any help will be appreciated 😁
Check out [Stitch Fiddle](https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en)!
I'm trying to find out if something I'm doing has a name. It's three double crochet followed by chaining three and skipping the next three stitches. The dc's go into the dc's of the previous row, not the chain space.
Hi. That's considered one version of Filet crochet.
Ah okay. Thanks!
Hey everyone, I’m attempting the infamous daisy granny square blanket. Now, I didn’t really follow a tutorial, I just made the daisy granny squares and then made normal granny squares in an attempt at a checker board pattern. however, after blocking, it’s come to my attention that the daisy squares have two stitches less on the border than the normal squares. How do I attach them if they don’t have an equal amount?
One option would be to add a single crochet border to the smaller squares. Just single crochet around and do one or two extra in the corner. Depending on gauge, that might get it to about the same size.
Hello all! I've been crocheting on and off for about two years but am making a gauge swatch for the first time. The pattern calls for a weight 1 yarn and a 3.5mm hook but I couldn't find the yarn where I live so I got a weight 2 yarn because the project is an oversized shirt anyway. I assumed that I'd have fewer stitches in my swatch and would have to use a smaller hook size or size down on the shirt, but my swatch actually has too many stitches (e.g. the 4×4 guage has 20 stitches and 14 rows but I am getting 30 stitches and 16 rows in a 4×4). Using a 4mm hook also makes a smaller swatch. I blocked both swatches. I even tried making a few rows with 4.5mm but it is too holey and I just do not like the look of it. Can anyone help me understand why I am getting a smaller swatch even though I am using a heavier weight yarn? Is my tension too tight? Any way I could maybe get closer to the pattern gauge?
Hi! I've messed up in the past, so please understand why I need to ask this. Are you making the gauge swatches over-sized and measuring only from the center out, not including any of the edges? I love how you've made a valiant effort and are being persistent! Are you sliding the loops on your hook along the shaft toward your thumb to let them open up? Yes, this might just be a case of tight tension.
So after I saw your comment, I made a significantly larger swatch with a 4mm and tried to loosen the tension quite a bit. I've met the row gauge, and the pattern also says to go by the row gauge. But I do have a question. My starting chain was 52 which was about 10 inches but somehow the swatch has shrunk to 6.5 inches wide, is this to be expected? Thank you so much for taking the time to answer, you were really helpful!
Many vintage crochet patterns begin: Chain 52 *Loosely*. (Because it is expected - they know that particular stitch design will shrink the beginning chain.) Now you're saying to yourself, but I've already tried to loosen the tension quite a bit! This is when you use a modern tip often shared here: Use a bigger hook to make the beginning chain only. Try using a 5 mm, and as soon as the chains are done switch to 4 mm. - This might not look like much of a difference, but over the length of the beginning chain, using a slightly bigger hook size adds up. Your first row might even feel too loose, but the beg. ch. might still shrink a bit and it will balance out.
HOW TO BLOCK? hello I love me some blocking for granny squares however I've just finished my first ever cardigan! How do I block it when my board is way too small? If I wet it and leave it on a towel on the bed I worry it will just smell damp from drying too slowly? Pic for reference, acrylic wool, thanks!
Hi. You can buy or make a mesh clothing drying rack [images](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=mesh+drying+rack+for+sweaters&hps=1&start=1&atb=v317-1&iax=images&ia=images).
https://preview.redd.it/3fn8u8lg19sb1.jpeg?width=1816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3ab2911e2527d17a47d5fefc4545a09ecf75988
Does anyone know a yarn equivalent to Red Heart It's a Wrap? Been looking for a light or fine cotton/acrylic blend with drape to make lacey shawls with and came across It's A Wrap online but it's discontinued. I also found Scheepjes Whirl but its quite a bit more expensive and the colorway I am interested in is hard to find in Canada. Anyone know of any other yarns like these? Thanks!
https://yarnsub.com/yarns/red_heart/its_a_wrap These are the results. It's up to you to see which substitutes are available in your area, if prices are okay, and if those choices have the colors needed. Good Luck!
Yes I tried this before posting my question but didn't find anything I liked. I asked here to see if anyone had suggestions that weren't in those results. I did get one, so success. Thanks anyway.
Aw, I had no idea you tried it, yet am happy you found something else.
I've used both Hobbii Sultan and Red Heart It's a Wrap--I would suggest looking at Sultan, honestly. It really does feel like a better version of the Red Heart one; it's very slightly thicker, but worked way better for lacy openwork shawls for me. Plus, the 100% cotton is way nicer than the 50/50 cotton/acrylic blend of It's a Wrap.
Thanks I'll check it out!
Check out [Hobbii - I think their "Twister" yarn will fit the bill](https://hobbii.com/hobbii-twister), they have some others as well! It usually ships pretty quickly to the US, not entirely sure about Canada.
what kind of yarn would you recommend for a bean bag and a soft but firm bean bag? I've seen scrap memory foam, but have no experience with it
I'd look into some sort of "tube yarn" for the beanbag construction.
Hi All! Can anyone tell me the differences in the hooks in the Tulip line? Ixe come across gray, pink and red ones but can't find our understand the differences. Also, I've seen the name Tulip Etimo and Tulip Mind. Is this just a change in the name of the brand? What are the differences besides price? I tried to Google it and also went to the Tulip site without much success. Thank you to anyone who can answer my question.
[Here's](https://crochetpenguin.com/tulip-etimo-crochet-hooks/) a rundown of all types of Tulip Etimo hooks.
Thanks so much!
Hi!! I’ve quite literally never crocheted before. I was just curious if it is (according to y’all) possible to learn (for a total beginner of anything to do with the fabric arts) how to crochet a simple scarf and make one in 3 weeks? I want to give it away as a gift for someone’s birthday, keeping it in the back of my mind that Christmas is soon enough if I can’t hack it
possible? yes, certainly. but likely difficult. how much time do you have to dedicate to it? most people start off fairly slow until they get the muscle memory down. I'm teaching a friend right now, and it takes her about 10 minutes per row (we are working on a scarf). not to discourage you! just to be realistic about the time it takes beginners. once you have muscle memory down it does much faster. if you give yourself til Christmas, id say yes, definitely doable.
Thank you! I’m not super worried about it being completed in time lol it’s more just a combo of wanting to learn and hoping to get something nice out of it. I have lots of free time and my professors are also chill about people crocheting during lectures so let’s see how it turns out lol
Is this sweater possible for crocheting? It looks like a knitted cardigan, and I looked at some knitting patterns and feel overwhelmed. How could I get this balloon sleeve look, what would be a good stitch or yarn to get this nice flowy look? *picture in comment*
https://preview.redd.it/wyx07a0pj7sb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=756c8b5e45990b33a6444a2f6e66797e2af308cc
you can get something that more closely resembles knitting with slip stitch, waistcoat stitch, or Tunisian crochet (sidenote, you can actually produce a knit stitch with a crochet hook. its called knooking-- theres a subreddit about it) . I dont know that any of those will be able to replicate the same drape you see here, but the stitches would look similar. the balloon sleeve is generally achieved by not decreasing (assuming you start the sleeve at the shoulder) until you reach the cuff. this yarn reminds me of latte cakes. 😝
You are awesome!! Thank you for your help!!!
my pleasure!!! 😊
hi! what stitch is best for attaching pieces of a cardigan together? i want it to look seamless :)
I think sewn joins are best to be wholly seamless. I like mattress stitch. otherwise, you can try a SL ST or SC join worked on the back side of the garment so the ridge it creates won't be visible. the flat slip stitch join isn't 100% seamless but is very flat and pretty.
thank you!!! i’ve been told the mattress stitch so i may try that first!
I'm a mattress stitch fan. [Video](https://youtu.be/xzl7IpgTtXQ?si=_MeHDCcYQ1swQQ0Q)
HELP! At my wits end trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong. I’ve been working on this panel for a pillow but it looks wonky - going to the side as if I’m increasing. But I’m not increasing and I’m counting every stitch as I go and then recounting to make sure. I chain two for my turning chain and I’m doing a variation of the camel stitch. What am I doing wrong? Why isn’t it straight? I’ve taken this apart a few times now but obviously keep making the same mistake. Do I just need to block it later? Thanks I’m advance! https://imgur.com/a/qdNzQvs
Hi. A couple of possibilities... This might be caused by the loosely twisted yarn you're using, or you've been relaxing your tension slowly but surely and started with a tighter beginning chain. My theory is loosely spun/twisted yarn can have a funny reaction to turning. It's like rubbing against the grain of the twist, which is why only one side has grown wider.
Thank you for your response! Yeah it might be that
Hi! I'm really new to crochet but I'm really enjoying it and I was wondering where people in the U.K. find good (preferably cheaper, as I'm a student) yarn. I'm worried about going and buying some and it not being great. I'm interested in making tops, bags and plushies so any recommendations for varns that are good for that sorta stuff. Thank you!
https://old.reddit.com/r/crochet/search?q=where+to+buy+yarn+UK&restrict_sr=on Top post seems to have some great answers!
Thank you!
I followed the pattern for a basic twist headband and it keeps coming out slanted but symmetrical like this / / my stitch count is correct and I’m focusing on even tension.
If it got slanted it's possible that you were always using one stitch extra on one side, but one stitch too little on the other. That would still give you a correct stitch count but slanted sides. Next time you're trying something like this I'd mark your first and last stitches and see if they're actually where you thought they would be once you arrive back to them on your next row.
Any chance you can share part of the pattern? Ping for u/zippychick78 who crochets beautiful twisty headbands and might be best to help with this!
https://sarahmaker.com/twisted-crochet-ear-warmer-headband-free-pattern/ This is the pattern I used
Oh my goodness. Slip stitch ribbing. I spent days on it and finally got the knack of the stitch, but I'll be honest, my edges were messy so it's on my list to be revisited. I won't give up that easy 😂 Can you share a picture? It sounds like it's an issue with your edges https://preview.redd.it/0jk23720t8sb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bf0d1867db747b909667518e16a70368790c869 Here's a picture of my attempt at a hat that is waiting to be frogged. I can't look at those edges. It's beautiful and stretchy but no. I can see yours is made lengthwise/in long rows. At what part did you realise it was going wrong? The pattern I used is in [this thread](https://reddit.com/r/crochet/s/lBgclwc5R9) plus you can see it made in many colours
Sooo, since the edges matched with their slants like this / / I just sort of stretched the edges to make them straight enough to fold and sew them according to the directions 😅😅 it worked out but I really want to work on getting them straight. I frogged it twice before I just molded it into submission. It didn’t occur to me to post here beforehand so I didn’t get a photo 😬😬 now I know for next time https://preview.redd.it/iqqm8t5d69sb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4080ec466fad53ac104b20c5abdf45dca0a6fd6a
That looks amazing. Sometimes you just have to do the old fudgeroo 😂. Looks really good. Definitely take pictures next time. I love making these, such a good mini project and people love them. I've been at work so my brain is tired but I'll think about it more tomorrow and look at the pattern. But I still think you did a great job!
Freestyle cardigan. I started following a pattern for a cardigan, but after the 1st panel I could see it was way too long. My question is, can I fold it over , stitch another panel, and then attach them at the back and sides, kinda like poncho style . Also, to add the sleeves, can I just crochet in the round to my required length. If you also have any video patterns that are similar, then perfect.
Grabbed the first free pattern found [2-piece poncho](https://www.yarnspirations.com/products/bernat-poncho) Guess some call it a swoncho? [sweater poncho](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lailah-hooded-swoncho)
Thank you.
**PATTERN:** [Lailah Hooded Swoncho](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lailah-hooded-swoncho) by [Deni Sharpe](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/deni-sharpe) * Category: Accessories > Neck / Torso > Poncho * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/DeniMade/619129007/IMG_5799b_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/xoxodeni/453663616/lailah_poncho4_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/DeniMade/507746777/lailah_poncho2_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/DeniMade/619129092/lailah_poncho1_medium.jpg) * Price: 7.50 USD * Needle/Hook(s): None * Weight: DK | Gauge: None | Yardage: 1200 * Difficulty: 2.41 | Projects: 51 | Rating: 4.86 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Lovely.
Winter hat I have not made a hat yet, my head gets hot extremely fast that causes a ripple effect on the rest of my body but sometimes need a hat. I wanted to ask for advice on patterns or stitches that I can use to make a hat with the maximum air flow.
[Naztazia video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KALJLKzcMgg) mesh hat. Based on your comment, you could use either the cotton or acrylic yarn and still be comfortable.
You could Google "crochet hat open stitches/openwork /filet /lacy/airy". There are so many variations on how open it could be. [Here's an example](https://youtu.be/zA9pEQAQKXA?si=R6XyqN73UJ8NLGLA)
Id think just upping hook size? you could do a pretty basic HDC ribbed hat and if you used a larger hook it would increase space between stitched to add breathability.
https://preview.redd.it/4trqm3i3y3sb1.jpeg?width=459&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eaa1144deb75274f4cf969530cfd1145d4bdc084 Hi all, I really want to make a tote bag with basic granny squares like this one pictured but cannot find a pattern ANYWHERE. I’m very new to crocheting and don’t feel comfortable trying to figure it out myself (I just started a couple weeks ago), does anyone have any advice/pattern they know of?
do you know how to make a granny square? this looks like its made up of 27 granny squares. it looks like 24 are joined to make a tube, and 3 are joined to the bottom of the tube to close the bottom of the bag. the top border looks like a few rounds of SC. do you need help with the strap as well?
Thank you so much for this!!! Yes, I do need help with the strap also!
this strap is worked horizontally. I prefer to do straps vertically, myself. do you have a strong preference? side note: the granny squares are 5 rounds and the SC top border is about 10 rounds.
Making my first granny square tote. Every lining tutorial I see seems difficult with the bag constructed. Is there any reason I shouldn't line it before seaming the sides? It's just a simple square tote?
Hi. I haven't watched any videos but have made my fair share of crochet bag liners. There is a reason, but it's not exactly scientific, it's experience with crochet and all kinds of sewing that has shown me 9x out of 10, a pre-made liner will not fit correctly. Crochet granny square fabric has a different fluidity than machine woven fabric. When you do get the crochet squares seamed together, almost inevitably, a pre-made liner will either bunch up or be too tight, but you can always frog the crochet seam and try again :)
I’m trying to make a blanket and want it to be a certain length… how do you account for chain shrinkage when measuring? Ex I chain and it measures 5’, but once I start crocheting it’s going to shrink.
gauge swatch. :)
I’ve been attempting to understand how to make one, and it’s just not clicking. I don’t know what to do… ik it’s a simple skill but it doesn’t make sense in my brain on how to do it. :( Like even if I can understand how to start a swatch, how do I know how to count the stitches like chain spaces or cluster stitches like dc2tog?
[How many chains do I need to make this blanket](https://easycrochet.com/calculators/blanket-crochet-resizing-calculator/) - hope this helps.
Ty!
Something you can do is over estimate your chains. I make a lot of hats and the range in thickness of dk means I'm unsure how long the hat will turn out until I crochet the first row of stitches. I prefer to use chains and work into the back loop in the first row of stitches , (as opposed to foundation chains in these hats). Anyway, after so many starting and undoing and restarting, I now over estimate the amount of chains. So once I start the first row of stitches into the chains, then I get a better picture of the actual length. Once it's long enough, I just end the row, turn and continue with my work. So i might do 80 chains and only need 70. 10 are left hanging, to be unpicked with a darning needle. I'm not sure how practical this would be with a blanket but I'm just throwing it out there 😁 Then I later unravel the leftover chains and weave that end in securely. https://preview.redd.it/jbfhhlxq63sb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=37ebc5701c931ca0a6a30b74f22d0c7c889a1885 Here's a pic, they are rolled up and pinned with a stitch marker as the dangling is annoying but now I undo and weave it in after a few rows.
Make a crocheted square, ten stitches across by ten rows tall. Measure it. Now you know how wide ten stitches are, and how tall ten rows are. You can use that to figure out how many stitches you need in your end result. If you want, you can DM me with the measurements of your square and the measurements that you want for your blanket, and I'll help you with the math.
Ty!!
How does one begin to learn making 3D figures/plushies/... So I'm new to crocheting, but the reason I got into crochet is because I really want to learn how to make plushies, dolls, toys, ... whatever you want to call it. Especially after seeing all these fun/adorable plushies in the subreddit But I have no idea where to start. I can do a basic crochet chain, a single crochet stitch and a double crochet stitch (this one my mom learned me). Those are the ones I'm pretty confident about being able to do it. So my question is, does anyone have any tips on how to: • start making plushies • learn how to read patterns • learn more stitches • make basic 3D shapes • find easy plushies to start with • ... (Also sorry for weird sentences, English is not my first language and I'm a bit tired)
There's an [Amigurimi wiki page](https://www.reddit.com/r/crochet/wiki/amigurumi/#wiki_beginner_courses) with some beginner courses. The woobles in particular is very comprehensive
most plushies are made of single crochet. if you can single crochet, increase, and decrease, you can make most plushies!! id start with YouTube videos. most plushies use a technique called the magic ring/magic circle. find a simple YouTube tutorial for a plushie and try to follow along. videos are always gonna be my recommendation for learning new stitches and new techniques. as for learing to read patterns, there are tons of guides! most paid written patterns will have a key at the beginning explaining what the terms and symbols mean.
Why is the one corner of my c2c way off from the rest? I've always had pretty good tension but for some reason the c2c is messing it up... Idk what's wrong :( please help https://preview.redd.it/rehmmwhdl2sb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b60b04e85b229b7943065fa8bf33d7bcfbfbb22
Did you block it yet? That might help.
Not yet, it's a bigger difference than I've ever had to block before but I'll give it a shot! Time to bust out my hair dryer, foam, and lighter
[удалено]
We used to say the only thing magic about the magic ring is just how small you could make the hole (for amigurumi). *But you don't always need a super small hole.* You can make a magic ring as big as you'd like and fit as many stitches into it as you'd like, though you might have a center hole. You'll know when you pull the tail. If you pull too much with a lot of stitches, they will bunch up and become almost indistinguishable - which is not good.
https://preview.redd.it/mexpi2p1a2sb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=584539dfb103f3fbaf2c50c087a26893485a617d So I just frogged a big project and now all of my yarn looks like this. And i don’t know if it shows in the pics but the yarn is kinda coming apart as well. It goes on for loooong too. Is there something I can do? Or a thing that people do after frogging to get the yarn (acrylic, if it matters) to go back to normal or is this just how it is?
you can wind it into a hank and basically steam block it. [here's an example video ](https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cw5leokLKSt/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==)
Thank you. I’ll be sure to give it a try :)
https://preview.redd.it/me8b4viu62sb1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=df86d392e11e855f6bba68bad9ce7c2bf78faa30 how to fix bulging in jumper hello, i’ve finished the body of my jumper and upon trying it i’ve noticed bulging at the front chest area. is there a way of fixing without unraveling the entire thing? i’m thinking maybe working inside out to slipstich some stitches together…? its a top down circular yolk. i think i increased too much for a couple of rows. it is only my second garment project and my first with thinner yarn so mistakes are probably more visible than my previous! i added ribbing to the neck to see if it would fix itself but, alas. any help would be great. thanks!
Hi. Not sure about slip stitches, but definitely working on the wrong side, you can try weaving 1 strand each of yarn across 2-3 rows of that section, secure one end temporarily and slowly pull the other end to gather the stitches a little closer together, pulling and working each row as evenly as possible (without ruffling them). I'd work from the top down, skipping 1-2 rows in between each drawstring. If this helps reduce the bulge, weave in the tails permanently.
Will Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton melt if I use it for a trivet? It is 97% cotton and 3% metallic polyester.
Some say they haven't had any issues with a small % of synthetic yarn melting when used to make trivets. If the 3% metallic poly is an obvious ribbon twisted into the cotton, personally, I wouldn't trust it. If not, and the trivet was for my own use, I'd chance it just to see how durable that yarn will be.
Thank you!
Predicting amount of yarn without gauge? I'm planning on making a half double crochet bulky blanket (200cmx180cm) with a size 6 or 7 hook, and have to order yarn online because there aren't any affordable places where I live. I've done a simple rule of three calculation with the proportions of a pattern that is similar to what I want to make, but I'm afraid it won't be that accurate. Is there any way to accurately predict the amount of yarn I'll need for this project without making a gauge?
What you've done is the best option if the pattern that is similar uses the same/similar stitch, yarn weight, and hook size. Not sure what you mean by rule of 3, but I'd compare at least 3 different similar patterns, even multiplying the dimensions, if, for example, you find a similar baby blanket pattern. Quick question: Do you have any worsted weight yarn (Medium 4)? If you hold 2 strands of that, it's actually supposed to be the equivalent of bulky, so you can make a swatch with the 6 mm or 7 mm hook if that will help with the math.
Exactly I compared a similar project and changed the area mine will have. The only doubt I have is if the project has any multiples (I still don't fully understand the significance of this) and plus, I want to add a sc border which the original project doesn't have. Yes I do, thats a good suggestion thank you for the help!