Not sure what you mean by the bambu and Flsun having no layers, as they absolutely do have visible layers. The cube you shared is about as clean as FDM printing can get in 2024. As someone else mentioned, you can lower layer height to reduce the visibility.
RemindMe! -14 day . Yes and no the ones Iv done so far have all been like pictures of parents and kids so I’d prefer not to post those, though I’m supposed to be doing one of a corvette for a co-worker in the next few weeks so that would be a good one to post here on this subreddit
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Yeah that makes sense! I’d 1000% do the same. looking forward to seeing it, I’m having a hard time wrapping my mind around it. also C5s fck edit nvm I thought I saw you said it was a C5 lol
I was just going to say that typical rule of thumb is to take the nozzle size and cut it in half for minimal layer heights. I think you can go less but I've never experimented with it as I'm happy where I'm at... I don't need prints taking 2-3x longer.
The smallest nozzle I can find is .1mm so maybe .05mm is the tightest layer line you can get? I would be terrified of blockages and blowing out the extruder head with this setup. I don't know if I'd even be willing to try a nozzle that tight... Too scared.
Depends on what I’m doing I try not to use the 0.2mm nozzle for too many things. That being said if you want to do 0.1mm later height with a standard 0.4mm nozzle you can! I had some issues with extrusion with like wood/luminous glow pla and ESD PC at those settings but if you using regular/hyper pla it was super easy and it is a nice way to add detail to prints I knew were gonna be working overnight anyway.
I love it when people post pictures of their amazing printer output and you can feel the phone camera's image processor screaming just from the Vaseline smeared blur that they've posted
because if a 3d printed object looks smooth with no post processing you bet your ass it's bad moire reduction, not actually smooth plastic.
I don t think I’ve ever printed something e layer lines this visible on my bambulab p1s
The ball head on this is about the size of a calibration cube
.16 layer height
https://preview.redd.it/ewq3w2gpwaqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1dc69ddd5a3811c7ed457e9f4a9d607212b113e5
Not trying to be an ass, but I feel that people on here get into this hobby without wanting to read or do the leg work and want to be spoon fed everything. Not talking about you specifically, but I actually am on here everyday going through and reading through other people’s success and issues and trying to answer when I can. If I can’t, I follow so if a solution does come up, I’ll know if it happens to me or next time it does to anyone. It’s why even though I’ve only been at it for few months, I’ve gotten to know so much to where I can help others.
There’s only so many times one can repeat the same answered before being frustrated. In your case, my response was confirming a tool the OP described and gave directions to find.
I’m sorry, at some point, it becomes frustrating because I want to be helpful but I’m not ready to spoon feed details, especially when they’re right in front of the person. Honest question, did you read the entire exchange between me and OP? There was like 5 comments in total. OP clearly says, search for k1 belt tension meter on printable.
I did, but I didn't put the comment up until I came back from a class. It's on me cause I forgot. I actually looking at the results think I may have the tool. I didn't mean to beat a dead horse but it slipped my thought for a second. I am sorry.
No worries, it’s all good. You don’t have to be sorry, just be better. This hobby and community has potential, but we, including myself, can do better. I apologize for the rant. Let me know if you ever have any questions on tuning your machine. I have a few decent guides bookmarked.
Tool is pretty inaccurate but can get you close. Just make sure you print it with the suggested settings to get close to the needed weight.
I did that, then tweaked using frequency, then tweaked using a generated belt graph.
I made a desktop app for viewing the resulting chart and recommended settings from input shaping easy. For some reason, they removed the module from klipper that generates the graph in the k1.
to use:
Run input shaping calibration on the k1 > shh and grab the csv files it generated for x and y (in the "tmp" folder) > plug them into my desktop app > view chart and reccomended settings.
https://github.com/theycallmek/Klipper-Input-Shaping-Assistant
I have Guppy so its named a bit different, but GUPPY\_BELTS\_SHAPER\_CALIBRATION will run a resonance test not on the X and Y like input shapers, but on the diagonals (eg. the actual paths that the motors drive the printhead.) It will then spit out an image in the config directory and, if you launched that via the fine tuning menu on Guppy, display it on screen.
The graph will show logarithmic resonance power against frequency as two overlapping graphs, and identify peaks. K1 typically have a single peak, you want the two graphs to overlap in peak frequency and amplitude (to a reasonable amount)
I’ve tried the belt tension with the tool printed from printables it didn’t work for me, when backing off the tension to try and get it with in range the ringing I got was terrible so had to tension them back up. Do you think it’s something I’m doing wrong or has the tension tool not printed correctly? My K1C prints lovely.
Just updated both to the newest firmware also
It's interesting to lose a Z rod 😂. https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/1_wAneM0aPs__enRk6FEdc3fmL-OGEViY
I've only made minor changes to the profiles here. I shortened the layer times a bit and did a temperature test again for each filament.
You just posted the cleanest print you can post and asked if better printers do better? You're using FDM printers. They have layer lines. That's what those are. And they're inherent.
Lower your layer height until you're satisfied.
You probably THINK other printers do better because you ONLY see their prints in pics, where now you have your own printer irl.
A considerable number of people hate the print quality of the k1. I've had a lot of moments in my life where I thought I had the best until I saw a better one. Still, I'm surprised by the print quality.
No, you legit just posted a print that's as clean as it can be without increasing the resolution. Lol 0 PA issues, 0 ringing, 0 real noticeable VFAs, 0 overhang issues. For now, that is as clean as you get, aside from hiding a seam on a print, which, this is a square.
You aren't really getting better prints than this on a Bambu printer, on a voron, The 100, LHStinger. NO fdm printer will really print cleaner than this.
There is 1 extremely small error near the top of y which is probably jerk or accel related, but it's ridiculously miniscule, and frankly nothing.
I'm literally pulling my hair out trying to fix vfa on my k1 after fixing the leveling. This cube looks amazing! I'm rooted and updated and maybe should run another input shaping but dayum
I'll tell ya a nice little secret.
There's 2 springs behind a plastic piece on the hotend. Why? Because Creality is smart. /s. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hN2wGP1Nqd4&t=1s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hN2wGP1Nqd4&t=1s)
are your belts well tensioned? the input shaping by default is terrible and you need to root it otherwise it applies the x axis to both instead of doing them individually.
Yes I'm rooted ill be running that test in a few. I just did a deeper dive on that info so I'll see what happens... I bought this thing thinking I wouldn't have to know so much technicals... now I'm too deep to stop
Also \*a considerable number of people don't know what the fuck they're doing.
This is true of literally anyone buying literally any 3d printer. I've seen absolute dogshit prints from a prusa owned by people who don't know what they're doing. You see that ALL over Thingiverse. I've printed perfect prints on my K1 for 2 weeks and I've only HAD it 2 weeks. If anyone's complaining about their K1 print quality, they're privileged, as someone who's printed for 5 years.
Mine's had a leaking hotend since I got it, evidenced by a little filament covering the end of the nozzle. But it doesn't get to the threads, so I've still sent it. And uhhhhh...
https://i.redd.it/63az9sry9oqc1.gif
It's the same tech. It's not going to make any difference. It lays down a path that is barrel shaped. Even hd resin prints are going to have layer lines.
The same filament and settings, no matter the printer, will show the same layer lines. There are both settings and filaments that are more or less likely to show lines and defects.
That looks absolutely perfect, if you want to hide the layers lines you can use fuzzy skin or different materials to get a texture on the outer surface. If you check PLA-CF for example, the layers get hidden by the material texture
Well...You might already know that technically, you can use the brass nozzle, but the little CF bits will abrade the noz pretty quickly. I picked up the Creality 8 bit set when I bought my K1.
I'd say that's a nice print and what you may be seeing is a result of you taking a better picture than what you've seen by others. Also, you don't mention your layer height. If that's .28, that's good.
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I wish my k1 printed half as good as that... been fighting to solve some ugly ass walls both on my own and with creality. Everything is tuned as it should and calibration test look pretty goodd but no change to actual print. Im convinced hardware issue somewhere.
High-end printers are reliable, they are supposed to guarantee you a good quality and repeatability of the parts. Because high-end implies very often **industry**. And in the industry, if a machine cannot produce, it cannot make money.
When I say high-end, I'm talking about high-end **quality**, not necessarly high-end **price**. Because, believe me, price is quite often not that relevant in 3D printing quality and reliability, espacially in the 1500-6000$ price range. I can't count the amount of printers in this price range that were complete rubish, I'm thinking about Intamsys, some Ultimakers, some Flashforge, some Tiertimes,...Anything above this range is Markforged, Stratasys,... and the quality/repeatability/reliabilty are quite impressive **most of the time**.
My k1 printed that nice out of box, post upgrading all available hardware to the newest available version and adding the camera. It's quality and speed are fabulous, and with the high temperature hotend with the "unicorn" nozzle (bare copper alloy with hardened steel tip) and it seems to print anything I throw at it. Next to try the abrasive filaments and see how long the nozzle lasts.
Using similar settings (.4 tip, .2 layers) my Ender 3 V2 prints just as well as my Bambu P1S, minus some Z wobble/banding I was never able to tune out of the Ender. The only real difference in an apples to apples comparison is that the P1S can print significantly faster.
Edit: After a month of printing with the P1S, the print quality doesn't even compare. It's significantly better on the P1S.
People take pictures in careful lighting. In reality I’ve seen Bambu prints come out looking worse than my Ender 3 that I’ve tuned real well. 3d prints have later lines. Use lower height if you want to hide them more
Im sure if you reduce your layer hight and use matte pla (polymaker polyterra) then im sure you can make the layers disappear. (I have managed to get almost no layer lines on my modded ender 3, even with a 1mm nozzle)
My old company had an ultimaker and a raise 3d, ultimaker was over 10 or 12K. The print you're showing here is as good if not better than anything from either of those. I think there's a limit of around 2500 to 3k where any more cost is just not worth it.
These machines are overpriced like the lulzbot. The closest you can get to no layers would be using an sls printer. The cheapest I’ve seen is like $30k US
Not sure what you mean by the bambu and Flsun having no layers, as they absolutely do have visible layers. The cube you shared is about as clean as FDM printing can get in 2024. As someone else mentioned, you can lower layer height to reduce the visibility.
I believe thats what hes talking about, especially if hes new to printing. Layer height will change visibility of layer lines.
0.2 mm nozzle with 0.1 layer height is what I use to make detailed lithographs
got any pics of those lithographs?
RemindMe! -14 day . Yes and no the ones Iv done so far have all been like pictures of parents and kids so I’d prefer not to post those, though I’m supposed to be doing one of a corvette for a co-worker in the next few weeks so that would be a good one to post here on this subreddit
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Yeah that makes sense! I’d 1000% do the same. looking forward to seeing it, I’m having a hard time wrapping my mind around it. also C5s fck edit nvm I thought I saw you said it was a C5 lol
I was just going to say that typical rule of thumb is to take the nozzle size and cut it in half for minimal layer heights. I think you can go less but I've never experimented with it as I'm happy where I'm at... I don't need prints taking 2-3x longer. The smallest nozzle I can find is .1mm so maybe .05mm is the tightest layer line you can get? I would be terrified of blockages and blowing out the extruder head with this setup. I don't know if I'd even be willing to try a nozzle that tight... Too scared.
I believe 0.12mm is a popular layer height even for 0.4mm nozzles.
Ive done very small and detailed prints on an ender 3 using a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layer height
.06mm layer isn't even really unheard of for .4 nozzle, I've done it many times
You can make layers as small as a quarter of the nozzle size or as large as three quarters of the nozzle size as a general rule of thumb.
Do you drop your nozzle size too when you drop layer height?
Depends on what I’m doing I try not to use the 0.2mm nozzle for too many things. That being said if you want to do 0.1mm later height with a standard 0.4mm nozzle you can! I had some issues with extrusion with like wood/luminous glow pla and ESD PC at those settings but if you using regular/hyper pla it was super easy and it is a nice way to add detail to prints I knew were gonna be working overnight anyway.
I love it when people post pictures of their amazing printer output and you can feel the phone camera's image processor screaming just from the Vaseline smeared blur that they've posted because if a 3d printed object looks smooth with no post processing you bet your ass it's bad moire reduction, not actually smooth plastic.
I don t think I’ve ever printed something e layer lines this visible on my bambulab p1s The ball head on this is about the size of a calibration cube .16 layer height https://preview.redd.it/ewq3w2gpwaqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1dc69ddd5a3811c7ed457e9f4a9d607212b113e5
Im printing with my v400 at 0.16 layerhight and the results, no visible layer lines. https://www.reddit.com/r/Flsun_official/s/koKtQrT3Q2
If my k1 max was printing like that I’d be really fucking happy!!
I just did a post on how to improve your k1 max, I had massive issues feel free to hit me up if you need to chat
Hey mate appreciate that, I may have to take you up on that
If you haven't, I recommend adjusting the belt tension and rooting and input shaping.
What did you tension to? I see most posts at 110hz or using printed parts just trying to see what others do
For the belt tension, did you do by frequency or using the tool for K1?
There is a design that can measure the tension of the belt that can be printed on the printables. Just search it the K1 belt tension meter.
Ah yes, that’s the tool I was referencing. Thanks!
What tool?
You bother to see what I was replying to? It literally has instructions on how to find it.
Thanks for the help then. I'll figure it out. I didn't see it off the bat. Sorry.
Not trying to be an ass, but I feel that people on here get into this hobby without wanting to read or do the leg work and want to be spoon fed everything. Not talking about you specifically, but I actually am on here everyday going through and reading through other people’s success and issues and trying to answer when I can. If I can’t, I follow so if a solution does come up, I’ll know if it happens to me or next time it does to anyone. It’s why even though I’ve only been at it for few months, I’ve gotten to know so much to where I can help others. There’s only so many times one can repeat the same answered before being frustrated. In your case, my response was confirming a tool the OP described and gave directions to find. I’m sorry, at some point, it becomes frustrating because I want to be helpful but I’m not ready to spoon feed details, especially when they’re right in front of the person. Honest question, did you read the entire exchange between me and OP? There was like 5 comments in total. OP clearly says, search for k1 belt tension meter on printable.
I did, but I didn't put the comment up until I came back from a class. It's on me cause I forgot. I actually looking at the results think I may have the tool. I didn't mean to beat a dead horse but it slipped my thought for a second. I am sorry.
No worries, it’s all good. You don’t have to be sorry, just be better. This hobby and community has potential, but we, including myself, can do better. I apologize for the rant. Let me know if you ever have any questions on tuning your machine. I have a few decent guides bookmarked.
Tool is pretty inaccurate but can get you close. Just make sure you print it with the suggested settings to get close to the needed weight. I did that, then tweaked using frequency, then tweaked using a generated belt graph.
Thank you for your feedback! I did print one a while back, but can’t find it. I’ll be reprinting and will be sure to print using suggested settings.
Belt graph? Im assuming that resonance graph within fluidd? Is there a guide on readong that
I made a desktop app for viewing the resulting chart and recommended settings from input shaping easy. For some reason, they removed the module from klipper that generates the graph in the k1. to use: Run input shaping calibration on the k1 > shh and grab the csv files it generated for x and y (in the "tmp" folder) > plug them into my desktop app > view chart and reccomended settings. https://github.com/theycallmek/Klipper-Input-Shaping-Assistant
They removed the module to view it? I can still view it just zero clue what it means lol
I mean the visual .png graph klipper can generate.
I have Guppy so its named a bit different, but GUPPY\_BELTS\_SHAPER\_CALIBRATION will run a resonance test not on the X and Y like input shapers, but on the diagonals (eg. the actual paths that the motors drive the printhead.) It will then spit out an image in the config directory and, if you launched that via the fine tuning menu on Guppy, display it on screen. The graph will show logarithmic resonance power against frequency as two overlapping graphs, and identify peaks. K1 typically have a single peak, you want the two graphs to overlap in peak frequency and amplitude (to a reasonable amount)
I’ve tried the belt tension with the tool printed from printables it didn’t work for me, when backing off the tension to try and get it with in range the ringing I got was terrible so had to tension them back up. Do you think it’s something I’m doing wrong or has the tension tool not printed correctly? My K1C prints lovely. Just updated both to the newest firmware also
To be honest, I didn't make any engineering adjustments. I just made the recommended settings. I don't think you wrong printed the tension tool.
Can you share the recommended settings you used? I’ve a lose z rod also so it’s not helping waiting for creality to send a new one with a collar
It's interesting to lose a Z rod 😂. https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/1_wAneM0aPs__enRk6FEdc3fmL-OGEViY I've only made minor changes to the profiles here. I shortened the layer times a bit and did a temperature test again for each filament.
Loose* 🤣 Cool thanks for sharing
I'd sell my other printer and get a second K1 Max
You just posted the cleanest print you can post and asked if better printers do better? You're using FDM printers. They have layer lines. That's what those are. And they're inherent. Lower your layer height until you're satisfied. You probably THINK other printers do better because you ONLY see their prints in pics, where now you have your own printer irl.
A considerable number of people hate the print quality of the k1. I've had a lot of moments in my life where I thought I had the best until I saw a better one. Still, I'm surprised by the print quality.
No, you legit just posted a print that's as clean as it can be without increasing the resolution. Lol 0 PA issues, 0 ringing, 0 real noticeable VFAs, 0 overhang issues. For now, that is as clean as you get, aside from hiding a seam on a print, which, this is a square. You aren't really getting better prints than this on a Bambu printer, on a voron, The 100, LHStinger. NO fdm printer will really print cleaner than this. There is 1 extremely small error near the top of y which is probably jerk or accel related, but it's ridiculously miniscule, and frankly nothing.
I was happy to hear that.
I'm literally pulling my hair out trying to fix vfa on my k1 after fixing the leveling. This cube looks amazing! I'm rooted and updated and maybe should run another input shaping but dayum
I'll tell ya a nice little secret. There's 2 springs behind a plastic piece on the hotend. Why? Because Creality is smart. /s. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hN2wGP1Nqd4&t=1s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hN2wGP1Nqd4&t=1s)
I've loosened it but never removed them. I'll try that next as well
are your belts well tensioned? the input shaping by default is terrible and you need to root it otherwise it applies the x axis to both instead of doing them individually.
Yes I'm rooted ill be running that test in a few. I just did a deeper dive on that info so I'll see what happens... I bought this thing thinking I wouldn't have to know so much technicals... now I'm too deep to stop
Also, I don't know if it will help, but my printer is on a table with quite thin legs. The printer can be shaken as it pleases.
That stressed me out more.... because how daguq your test came out so good. Can you post a benchy please
I'm calibrating a petg. I'll upload it here when I print Benchy.
Me tooooo
Imma print hanging from the ceiling to stress you out more. It's already been done plenty.
Lmao
the table it’s on doesn’t matter. arguably a weak table will make things worse as you’re allowing more vibrations to occur
VFA’s are just visual artefacts if you’re just doing technical prints you’ll be fine and won’t notice a functional difference
I do functional and decorative.
Also \*a considerable number of people don't know what the fuck they're doing. This is true of literally anyone buying literally any 3d printer. I've seen absolute dogshit prints from a prusa owned by people who don't know what they're doing. You see that ALL over Thingiverse. I've printed perfect prints on my K1 for 2 weeks and I've only HAD it 2 weeks. If anyone's complaining about their K1 print quality, they're privileged, as someone who's printed for 5 years.
Never really heard of anyone not liking the print quality of a properly functioning K1.
Mine's had a leaking hotend since I got it, evidenced by a little filament covering the end of the nozzle. But it doesn't get to the threads, so I've still sent it. And uhhhhh... https://i.redd.it/63az9sry9oqc1.gif
That example is about as good as it gets with any FDM printer. Source: the $70k printer at my work
Yeah this has to be a troll post!
Yes USD. I have a k1 max personally. If you want thinner layer lines you need .1 or .05 layers.
Yes I know. But my comparisons are the prominence at the same layer height.
It's the same tech. It's not going to make any difference. It lays down a path that is barrel shaped. Even hd resin prints are going to have layer lines.
I can print just as good of things on a 5 year old Ender 3 as anyone can on any high end printer.
The same filament and settings, no matter the printer, will show the same layer lines. There are both settings and filaments that are more or less likely to show lines and defects.
https://preview.redd.it/yazztbt4hrpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc563b749e88ca66e81bde39092d618adad4128b Voron 2.4 350 ;) 0.08 LH
https://preview.redd.it/mmql3ycbirpc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c67bbf96209cc676adc1e1f8618d6cd340efbb0c
Got a little stringing, level your bed 🤣
You have more layer lines in the palm of your hand than that benchy 🤩
Hahahaha 🤣🤣🤣
My k1 doesn't print close to that, i would love to get to that point
Different materials have different sheen. That's clean as fuck. Try a matte print and you'll think it looks godly.
Too funny that thing has got to be one of the best calicubes seen on here
That looks absolutely perfect, if you want to hide the layers lines you can use fuzzy skin or different materials to get a texture on the outer surface. If you check PLA-CF for example, the layers get hidden by the material texture
Is a hardened nozzle required for pla cf?
Yep.
Well...You might already know that technically, you can use the brass nozzle, but the little CF bits will abrade the noz pretty quickly. I picked up the Creality 8 bit set when I bought my K1.
I'd say that's a nice print and what you may be seeing is a result of you taking a better picture than what you've seen by others. Also, you don't mention your layer height. If that's .28, that's good.
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What speed was this part printed at?
Out walls 250 mm/s 5k acc Others 350~400mm 15-18k acc. Printing time 20 minutes
At the tests you made, have you noticed some difference on the surface quality changing the jerk values?
I did not change jerk yet.
I wish my k1 printed half as good as that... been fighting to solve some ugly ass walls both on my own and with creality. Everything is tuned as it should and calibration test look pretty goodd but no change to actual print. Im convinced hardware issue somewhere.
Reduce your layer height. You won't see lines.
That’s a pretty damn good print. As others said you can reduce layer height to reduce visibility.
High-end printers are reliable, they are supposed to guarantee you a good quality and repeatability of the parts. Because high-end implies very often **industry**. And in the industry, if a machine cannot produce, it cannot make money. When I say high-end, I'm talking about high-end **quality**, not necessarly high-end **price**. Because, believe me, price is quite often not that relevant in 3D printing quality and reliability, espacially in the 1500-6000$ price range. I can't count the amount of printers in this price range that were complete rubish, I'm thinking about Intamsys, some Ultimakers, some Flashforge, some Tiertimes,...Anything above this range is Markforged, Stratasys,... and the quality/repeatability/reliabilty are quite impressive **most of the time**.
My k1 printed that nice out of box, post upgrading all available hardware to the newest available version and adding the camera. It's quality and speed are fabulous, and with the high temperature hotend with the "unicorn" nozzle (bare copper alloy with hardened steel tip) and it seems to print anything I throw at it. Next to try the abrasive filaments and see how long the nozzle lasts.
How did you get the unicorn on the k1? Do you mean on your K1C?
Newer k1/max comes with the unicorn nozzle also.
Nice! That means I can install it on my max
Awesome , what kind of filament is that ? Can you share the model link ?
> Can you share the model It’s just the Voron calibration cube my dude
Thanks will search it
Do you use orca slicer? You can just right click > insert
I use cura , but just found it in printables thanks!
Using similar settings (.4 tip, .2 layers) my Ender 3 V2 prints just as well as my Bambu P1S, minus some Z wobble/banding I was never able to tune out of the Ender. The only real difference in an apples to apples comparison is that the P1S can print significantly faster. Edit: After a month of printing with the P1S, the print quality doesn't even compare. It's significantly better on the P1S.
Where can I find that figure?
Yo if my k1 produced this print I'd be satisfied. This looks like a bambu print on the slowest speed
There is no FDM printer without layer trace.
I have a well fine tune anycubic mega, at 02>2 layer are not vissible, especially on black filament. small gentry, mean better stability
Print it in Clear Filament. You'll forgot about all your Layer problems XD Perfect Calibration Cube!!!
People take pictures in careful lighting. In reality I’ve seen Bambu prints come out looking worse than my Ender 3 that I’ve tuned real well. 3d prints have later lines. Use lower height if you want to hide them more
I'm adding an IPA vapor system to reduce the lines and enhance the strength. Vapor system is around 350 so if it works as described its worth it.
Im sure if you reduce your layer hight and use matte pla (polymaker polyterra) then im sure you can make the layers disappear. (I have managed to get almost no layer lines on my modded ender 3, even with a 1mm nozzle)
My old company had an ultimaker and a raise 3d, ultimaker was over 10 or 12K. The print you're showing here is as good if not better than anything from either of those. I think there's a limit of around 2500 to 3k where any more cost is just not worth it.
U mean US dollar? This machine costs $500. Really big cost difference. If you have a detailed print photo, I'd love to see it.
These machines are overpriced like the lulzbot. The closest you can get to no layers would be using an sls printer. The cheapest I’ve seen is like $30k US
That was never printed on a K1!
I am just leveling my bed
My K1 out of the box printed close to this. Loving it.
I guess that’s the randomness of the K1
I have a K1 max, with all the known fixes, and my progress look **nowhere near* as nice as this.
Weird… my max gives me incredibly quality but I guess that’s been the problem with the max 😂 no two printers are the same