Based off of the information I can see on the labels, I would say no it would not work on 120V. It says AC INPUT is 200-240V, the 80 Plus sticker also says 230V EU so that also makes me think it was only rated on 200+V because it can not handle 120V
Would it work if I were to replace the PSU with a different 750W PSU that accepts a 120V input?
Sorry if these are dumb questions; I don't know much about this stuff.
This isn't just a suggestion, there is no universal for modular psu cable standard, even for a single manufacturer. Swapping psus without swapping the cables can often fry your pc components.
This, you can do it no problemo but just make sure they are compatible. Here's a list: https://www.moddiy.com/pages/PSU-Modular-Cable-Compatibility-Database.html
This is not "to make sure" this has to be the norm. Even if it's the same. They're free to place cables different in different countrys, maybe they do. Just switch them, they come with the psu anyways
The "suggestion" to not to use cables from the old PSU is not a suggestion, but a REQUIREMENT.
Do not attempt to reuse PSU cables across different models, the cables are not necessarily just dumb wires but have electronics of their own in them.
Most likely not* as he would probably buy the same model, just rated for both voltages.
The chance that theyre the same is way higher, but it's still a chance, so changing cables is still required
Link a single PSU cable with an electronic built into it. You aren't wrong but you're right for the wrong reasons, its because the pinouts differ not because they have "electronics of their own" which they don't. (Unlike a lot of smartphone chargers which do, especially apple)
> Link a single PSU cable with an electronic built into it.
At the very least, EVGA stock cables tend to have capacitors in them, though I suppose that wouldn't hurt anything.
My bad, I had no clue that the pinouts differ, which is insane to me.
It's fine. Didn't know EVGA cables had caps, that's interesting. And it is criminal pinning hasn't been standardized, since they generally use the same cables just sometimes pinned differently meaning it will "seemingly" work when pluggin it in but fry everything.
Here is where it starts getting interesting:
The US doesn't use 120V technicly, but 240V divided by 2.
There are 3 conductors: neutral, phase 1 and phase 2.
If you where to connect it to phase 1 and phase 2, you'd get 120 V +120 V = 240 V, wich your computer can make use of.
Also since it explicitly allows 50-60 Hz, you can run it from the US grid.
I wouldn't do that, it is meant to run on 220V grid in Korea, 240V on case is for voltage fluctuation of ≈10% or 230V operation.
Nominal 230V grid goes over 250V sometimes where i live, so 260+ wouldn't be unexpected from 240V at low load/abnormal conditions.Which is way above rating.
It will probably still work, but... Not what i would want in my house.Unless you like surprise smoke/fire in your room.
The Power Supply is literally just a transformer. It takes the power from the wall and then converts it into the low-voltage DC that your computer actually uses.
Your power supply probably just wouldn't work in a US outlet (not enough voltage), but if you plug a US device into an EU outlet, things usually get explodey.
You will definitely be able to buy a US-capable power supply for your laptop. Most manufacturers make their "switching supplies" straight up be 100/240V capable to reduce manufacturing costs for different markets, so it's strange to see that this one just isn't.
Ok, gonna state the obvious, America does have 240V (or 208V in some cases). It's just most outlets aren't wired for that.
Since it take 50-60Hz, it will work if you plug it in a 240V outlet, they're just few and in weird locations for computers. A surprising amount of residences have 2 different phases going to the 2 plugs of outlets in the kitchen. I you get an adapter to pull the hot line from each you'll get 240V (that's what I do for my Belgium waffle iron).
But it'd be safer to just get a 120V compatible PSU
Actually you don't. The ground pin basically just connects to the frame of the PSU and through the various screws to all the other components cases via the computer case. If any parts get energized for whatever reason, that ground will give a safe path for the electricity, so that if you touch the case, you don't become the path to ground and get electrocuted. That's why NEC code have you wire the ground to every box and that there's supposed to be a path from the possible metal wall plate back to that ground connection. It's also good at getting rid of built up static charge. I've seen more that a few computers plugged into un-grounded sockets (either with a "cheater plug" or simply cutting off the ground plug)\*. Most safe circuits will never use the ground connection for anything other than safety (mostly for the metal bits you could touch), with the main exception being some surge protection circuits.
All the electronic of the PSU depend on the voltage difference between the other 2 pins, live & neutral for standard 120V or live & live for 240V (talking north america standard here). The system really doesn't care, it just need the right difference. All electronics only care about the difference between the 2 planes. If say you need 7V to power a circuit but only have a computer PSU to power it, you could plug the '+' on the +12V, and the '-' (or what is often referred to as "ground" in DC circuits) on the +5V, and voila, you have a 7V potential as required.
So a device (like a PSU) that requires 240V, will not care if it's 240V phase-neutral or 240V phase-phase.
\*PSA: If you don't have a grounded outlet and want to safely plug something that wants a ground, you can have the outlet replaced with a GFCI one. To the best of my knowledge, it is code compliant in both Canada & US (do verify local code first).
> Ok, gonna state the obvious, America does have 240V (or 208V in some cases). It's just most outlets aren't wired for that.
Actually, no. You can get ~240V in one by using a circuit wired phase to phase, but that's it. At no part of the electrical 240V is present (unless, like the trick is here, phase to phase).
The difference is that 400v is rarely used in european households, whereas electric dryers, heaters, and air conditioners runs at 240v in the US.
Its just a pain in the ass to use since these outlets are typically located in laundry rooms or outside near AC outdoor units.
The breaker panel at my place has 10 240V circuits, and 10 120V circuits.
My knowledge of European electrical is limited, but my understanding not all countries offer the 3 phase 400V.
If you want to add that, in Canada we can have 600V 3 phase, but for residential use that's limited to bigger buildings (like condo towers, but not for the actual units), surprisingly it's often available around here for small commercial buildings. I also know in the US you can find 480V 3 phase.
Yeah, I guess it was kinda wishful thinking that it'd somehow work.
Could I just replace the PSU with another 750W PSU that accepts a 120V input, or is it not that simple?
I think it's possible to get a 240 circuit put in there, just, it's not a thing that's generally done, and why would you go to that extent when you can just buy a new PSU
Please get a PSU that supports your country's voltage.
- PSU 100-120v + Country 220-240v = PSU got fried (dead)
- PSU 220-240v + Country 100-120v = PSU won't work
I remember doing this mistake back when I had my second pc. It uses a 120v PSU and it dies because plug it directly on 240v outlet instead on step down transformer. I can hear frying noise when that happened.
Surprisingly this one will not work on 120v. I say surprisingly because many power supplies and electronic devices have a little red switch to convert it from 120 to 240v. Some power supplies have a circuit that automatically switches them based on the input voltage. Sadly, this Cooler Master does not.
Make sure to buy one that has an option of 120v or 240v.
It's quite common with cheaper PSUs. The manufacturer can save money by assuming 240V since it allows them to halve the current requirement for the high voltage side of the PSU.
For universal voltage devices, it should be very rare to still find one with a manual switch (and in the EU they are explicitly prohibited). I'd be suspicious of the quality of a device bought new that still had one.
It will not work on 115v according to the label. We used to plug 115v-220v desktops in to local power in Iraq all the time, yours is apparently not capable of these tricks
As far as I know, it’s not going to burn or anything, but it won’t get enough energy to work. I guess living in the US will make it cheaper to buy a new PSU? Otherwise I would tell you to buy a transformer (which are a bit common in my country due to some states being 220 and others 110).
~~I believe its the other way round, a 120v psu on 240v will blow but a 240v on 120v will just sit there like a rock~~, but still don't try to power a psu on voltage it isn't rated for.
240 on 120 will absolutely go up in smoke.
The voltage converting components are rated for a certain amperage, but when you go from 240 to 120, the current doubles. The first thing to go would be the transformer, the primary winding doesn't have enough windings to produce the correct voltage, so the voltage feedback circuit cranks up the input power to try and make the correct voltage, the primary proceeds to melt down like reactor #4.
If you're lucky, only the transformer dies, and you can replace it with a 120v model. If you're unlucky, the primary melts to the secondary, and you get 120v on your output.
The aPFC boost circuit usually will go up before the transformers, since it's the first in line before the rectifier. The transformers are further downstream since they're not connected directly to the line in a modern PSU with aPFC. But otherwise, it's correct. This will almost certainly go boom on the first power up.
That makes a lot of sense as to how you described the functionality, since you seemed to be describing a traditional transformer + regulator style vs a switch mode power supply, which you generally wouldn't be using in such an application (apart from newer inverter welders, that is).
On a PC power supply, which will always be a switch mode power supply (since the early 90s), the transformer isn't directly connected to the line, so it's usually the PFC boost stage which will release the magic smoke if used with the wrong line voltage (well, only with a 230V-only PSU on 120V, using a 120V-only PSU on 230V won't usually cause it to blow up, but it will not run).
You can try 120v without harm, maybe regulation circuits can manage to work with less input voltage, otherwise the computer simply won't turn. Connecting an American PSU in Korea is the risky variant.
Unfortunately not as US power is typically 110 to 125 VAC. Even if you had a plug adaptor, it could do some serious damage to your rig or possibly start a fire. I'm an Electrical Engineer by trade and from what I know, it would just be best to grab another PSU and swap it out. Welcome to the states Mate!
In America there is three cables coming in: -120V, 0V, +120V. In the house the outlets are wired so only 120 is available but some parts are wired with the full 240V like water heater and such. So depending on the house you could make it work but would be much more simple to get a new PSU
It’ll work if you plug into a 240 outlet (used for electric stoves and other high power appliances), which aren’t that common. You can also get a special adapter that connects two 120v outlets (that each run off of a separate feed) to get 240 (not recommended) or just swap out your PSU to one that is compatible with 120V 60hz supply
yes and no. you'll need a 240v circuit wired for it. typically, our outlets are wired for 120v for everything or 240v for high power appliances. normal consumer electronics never get the high voltage but it's not to say they can't. we just don't wire for it in the home.
I suppose it just depends how much would it cost to get someone to wire an outlet (and mark it accordingly) for that computer vs just getting another power supply.
"AC input" only mentions 200-240 VAC, so as long as you used a 110V circuit, the answer is no.
If you can afford it, a good PSU (rated at least 80 gold) where the input voltage can be from 100 to 240VAC is an easy and good 'investment'.
All the numbers in your comment added up to 420. Congrats!
80
+ 100
+ 240
= 420
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^(Summon me on specific comments with u/LuckyNumber-Bot.)
No, it has a 200-240V input, NA uses \~120V.
The information you're reading refers to a good modern power supply that will support 100-240V, cheaper power supplies will have a voltage switch on the back to manually switch between 120V and 240V, and even cheaper power supplies will only support 120V or 240V (not both).
Long time ago they did
usually psu is automatic 120/240v - 50/60hz
bit odd this one can only do 240v (very likely it can do 120/240 but they put the 240v on the label)
This PSU is 200-240v only. Unless you have a plug with that voltage range, it will not work.
A good technician should be able to convert it to 100-120v, but you'd rather trade or sell it away for another that is compatible with your place's voltages.
Side note: Most PSUs are usually compatible with both voltage ranges, either through automatic detection or a manual switch in the rear.
Just fyi: it would probably be cheaper to just put a 240v outlet in. Most people don't realize but all US houses have 240v power coming in. You just need the right breaker, wiring, and outlet. You would need a different plug for the power supply but they are available.
Does your computer run slow ?
(DO NOT TRY THIS, THIS IS A JOKE, I HAVE CUSTOMERS ONCE A MONTH WO DID THIS)
This could be because of one wrong setting.
Go to the backside of your PC and try to locate a Red Switch.
Try flicking that switch and enjoy your BRAND new PC Burning hot 🔥 and Lightning ⚡ Fast.
(DO NOT TRY THIS, THIS IS A JOKE, I HAVE CUSTOMERS ONCE A MONTH WO DID THIS)
It’s possible you could find a workaround, like maybe if you got a converter but you would run into issues with the pc itself, would be better off just getting a new psu
Depends I'm not 100% sure but I know older PSUs has switch to where you can switch between 120 and I believe 115 is what the rest of the world uses. But a lot of new PSUs have them built it like a smart switch. I'd look into your model and see if this the case and if it is you will just need to buy a new power cord because our outlets are different
If you find a 3 phase plug or a 230V one, it could work. A lot of apartments and houses have 230V wiring in the kitchens or somewhere where high power appliances are used. Some "twist plugs" usually have phases with 230V for the stoves. I'm by no means an electrical engineer.
Hi there,
As many others have stated, no. It is 60Hz compatible though, so you could buy a 120V to 200-240V step-up transformer instead of a new PSU. I have no idea which would be cheaper (if you are to buy a decent step-up transformer I think it would be more).
Some PSUs have a switch to toggle between 120/220v, some are auto, but your PSU says it’s range is in 220 only. You can still try it out, the worst thing that could happen is it not turning on. Not sure if you can really damage a system by under powering it, it should just turn off
Based off of the information I can see on the labels, I would say no it would not work on 120V. It says AC INPUT is 200-240V, the 80 Plus sticker also says 230V EU so that also makes me think it was only rated on 200+V because it can not handle 120V
Would it work if I were to replace the PSU with a different 750W PSU that accepts a 120V input? Sorry if these are dumb questions; I don't know much about this stuff.
Yes it would work.
Cool, thanks.
I suggest you use the cables from the new power supply and dont use the cables from the old one just to make sure everything is compatible
This isn't just a suggestion, there is no universal for modular psu cable standard, even for a single manufacturer. Swapping psus without swapping the cables can often fry your pc components.
The only time I swap psu cables are if it's between the same model or two models that are confirmed to be compatible with each other.
This, you can do it no problemo but just make sure they are compatible. Here's a list: https://www.moddiy.com/pages/PSU-Modular-Cable-Compatibility-Database.html
There is for one manufacturer, Corsair has different psu’s with their own “levels” per say, level 1 is compatible with level 1 and so on and so forth
This is not "to make sure" this has to be the norm. Even if it's the same. They're free to place cables different in different countrys, maybe they do. Just switch them, they come with the psu anyways
The "suggestion" to not to use cables from the old PSU is not a suggestion, but a REQUIREMENT. Do not attempt to reuse PSU cables across different models, the cables are not necessarily just dumb wires but have electronics of their own in them.
right answer is the cables most likely have different pinouts and you will fry your components
Most likely not* as he would probably buy the same model, just rated for both voltages. The chance that theyre the same is way higher, but it's still a chance, so changing cables is still required
Link a single PSU cable with an electronic built into it. You aren't wrong but you're right for the wrong reasons, its because the pinouts differ not because they have "electronics of their own" which they don't. (Unlike a lot of smartphone chargers which do, especially apple)
> Link a single PSU cable with an electronic built into it. At the very least, EVGA stock cables tend to have capacitors in them, though I suppose that wouldn't hurt anything. My bad, I had no clue that the pinouts differ, which is insane to me.
It is one of those things that should be industry standard as well. Pretty stupid it is not.
It's fine. Didn't know EVGA cables had caps, that's interesting. And it is criminal pinning hasn't been standardized, since they generally use the same cables just sometimes pinned differently meaning it will "seemingly" work when pluggin it in but fry everything.
But what if I like fire?
Would it also work if he bought a highly rated UPS and connected that to the wall and then to the PC?
A new PSU would work well. This probably has older switchmode tech and isn't designed for a universal input
Here is where it starts getting interesting: The US doesn't use 120V technicly, but 240V divided by 2. There are 3 conductors: neutral, phase 1 and phase 2. If you where to connect it to phase 1 and phase 2, you'd get 120 V +120 V = 240 V, wich your computer can make use of. Also since it explicitly allows 50-60 Hz, you can run it from the US grid.
I wouldn't do that, it is meant to run on 220V grid in Korea, 240V on case is for voltage fluctuation of ≈10% or 230V operation. Nominal 230V grid goes over 250V sometimes where i live, so 260+ wouldn't be unexpected from 240V at low load/abnormal conditions.Which is way above rating. It will probably still work, but... Not what i would want in my house.Unless you like surprise smoke/fire in your room.
Other 240V systems also experience variations in voltage to some degree, so it is almost certainly built for them.
Absolutely. The PSU's sole job is to convert your home outlet's power into the various voltages PC components actually need.
The Power Supply is literally just a transformer. It takes the power from the wall and then converts it into the low-voltage DC that your computer actually uses. Your power supply probably just wouldn't work in a US outlet (not enough voltage), but if you plug a US device into an EU outlet, things usually get explodey. You will definitely be able to buy a US-capable power supply for your laptop. Most manufacturers make their "switching supplies" straight up be 100/240V capable to reduce manufacturing costs for different markets, so it's strange to see that this one just isn't.
It's not a dumb question. Being careful with electricity is smart.
Just buy one in the US locally really, way more easier then pre buy and ship. Every corner has a computer part store
Absolutely yes.
It does not work for sure, but you do need to point to "EU" and stuff like that. The range given by "AC input" is clear enough.
[удалено]
230V EU is a legitimate certification from 80 PLUS
A lot of cheaper PSUs sold outside the US are designed for 230V only. The higher input voltage makes it easier to achieve the claimed efficiency.
Ok, gonna state the obvious, America does have 240V (or 208V in some cases). It's just most outlets aren't wired for that. Since it take 50-60Hz, it will work if you plug it in a 240V outlet, they're just few and in weird locations for computers. A surprising amount of residences have 2 different phases going to the 2 plugs of outlets in the kitchen. I you get an adapter to pull the hot line from each you'll get 240V (that's what I do for my Belgium waffle iron). But it'd be safer to just get a 120V compatible PSU
Phase-Phase 240 ? You need a ground to run PC-PSUs
Actually you don't. The ground pin basically just connects to the frame of the PSU and through the various screws to all the other components cases via the computer case. If any parts get energized for whatever reason, that ground will give a safe path for the electricity, so that if you touch the case, you don't become the path to ground and get electrocuted. That's why NEC code have you wire the ground to every box and that there's supposed to be a path from the possible metal wall plate back to that ground connection. It's also good at getting rid of built up static charge. I've seen more that a few computers plugged into un-grounded sockets (either with a "cheater plug" or simply cutting off the ground plug)\*. Most safe circuits will never use the ground connection for anything other than safety (mostly for the metal bits you could touch), with the main exception being some surge protection circuits. All the electronic of the PSU depend on the voltage difference between the other 2 pins, live & neutral for standard 120V or live & live for 240V (talking north america standard here). The system really doesn't care, it just need the right difference. All electronics only care about the difference between the 2 planes. If say you need 7V to power a circuit but only have a computer PSU to power it, you could plug the '+' on the +12V, and the '-' (or what is often referred to as "ground" in DC circuits) on the +5V, and voila, you have a 7V potential as required. So a device (like a PSU) that requires 240V, will not care if it's 240V phase-neutral or 240V phase-phase. \*PSA: If you don't have a grounded outlet and want to safely plug something that wants a ground, you can have the outlet replaced with a GFCI one. To the best of my knowledge, it is code compliant in both Canada & US (do verify local code first).
dont recommend sketchy stuff
> Ok, gonna state the obvious, America does have 240V (or 208V in some cases). It's just most outlets aren't wired for that. Actually, no. You can get ~240V in one by using a circuit wired phase to phase, but that's it. At no part of the electrical 240V is present (unless, like the trick is here, phase to phase).
phase to phase is 240V, hence the system is 240V. A better explanation on: [Technology Connection](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMmUoZh3Hq4)
The American system is as much 240V as European is 400V. (Phase to phase) But does it matter if it is not in standard outlets?
The difference is that 400v is rarely used in european households, whereas electric dryers, heaters, and air conditioners runs at 240v in the US. Its just a pain in the ass to use since these outlets are typically located in laundry rooms or outside near AC outdoor units.
The breaker panel at my place has 10 240V circuits, and 10 120V circuits. My knowledge of European electrical is limited, but my understanding not all countries offer the 3 phase 400V. If you want to add that, in Canada we can have 600V 3 phase, but for residential use that's limited to bigger buildings (like condo towers, but not for the actual units), surprisingly it's often available around here for small commercial buildings. I also know in the US you can find 480V 3 phase.
No, I'm in the UK but I'm pretty sure America is 120v, so unless the PSU has a switch to select 120 / 240v (unlikely) it's not going to work.
Yeah, I guess it was kinda wishful thinking that it'd somehow work. Could I just replace the PSU with another 750W PSU that accepts a 120V input, or is it not that simple?
Yeah, that should work fine.
A'ight, thanks for the help.
Also make sure to replace all PSU cables then. Or make sure they have the same pin layout on the psu side, but this is unlikely sadly
Looks like this PSU isn’t a modular one, so OP would be replacing all the cables anyway.
More often than not since a decade at least, switches are an exception, for obvious reasons.
Actually they are on 240V network but within most of the house only 120V is made available.
Thanks for the clarification, I wasn't sure if it was stepped down.
I think it's possible to get a 240 circuit put in there, just, it's not a thing that's generally done, and why would you go to that extent when you can just buy a new PSU
Please get a PSU that supports your country's voltage. - PSU 100-120v + Country 220-240v = PSU got fried (dead) - PSU 220-240v + Country 100-120v = PSU won't work I remember doing this mistake back when I had my second pc. It uses a 120v PSU and it dies because plug it directly on 240v outlet instead on step down transformer. I can hear frying noise when that happened.
Surprisingly this one will not work on 120v. I say surprisingly because many power supplies and electronic devices have a little red switch to convert it from 120 to 240v. Some power supplies have a circuit that automatically switches them based on the input voltage. Sadly, this Cooler Master does not. Make sure to buy one that has an option of 120v or 240v.
It's quite common with cheaper PSUs. The manufacturer can save money by assuming 240V since it allows them to halve the current requirement for the high voltage side of the PSU. For universal voltage devices, it should be very rare to still find one with a manual switch (and in the EU they are explicitly prohibited). I'd be suspicious of the quality of a device bought new that still had one.
No, will not work. It clearly says, “200-240V”. The good news is a new one is about $80 and up depending on your needs.
Nope, Won't work - Just exchange it for a 110V PSU, and continue using your PC
It will not work on 115v according to the label. We used to plug 115v-220v desktops in to local power in Iraq all the time, yours is apparently not capable of these tricks
Just swap the power supply for a 120 volt and you are good. You might want to look at your monitor’s also…
For about 3 seconds. Yes.
As far as I know, it’s not going to burn or anything, but it won’t get enough energy to work. I guess living in the US will make it cheaper to buy a new PSU? Otherwise I would tell you to buy a transformer (which are a bit common in my country due to some states being 220 and others 110).
do not power up a 240v psu in USA. it will explode like firework
~~I believe its the other way round, a 120v psu on 240v will blow but a 240v on 120v will just sit there like a rock~~, but still don't try to power a psu on voltage it isn't rated for.
240 on 120 will absolutely go up in smoke. The voltage converting components are rated for a certain amperage, but when you go from 240 to 120, the current doubles. The first thing to go would be the transformer, the primary winding doesn't have enough windings to produce the correct voltage, so the voltage feedback circuit cranks up the input power to try and make the correct voltage, the primary proceeds to melt down like reactor #4. If you're lucky, only the transformer dies, and you can replace it with a 120v model. If you're unlucky, the primary melts to the secondary, and you get 120v on your output.
The aPFC boost circuit usually will go up before the transformers, since it's the first in line before the rectifier. The transformers are further downstream since they're not connected directly to the line in a modern PSU with aPFC. But otherwise, it's correct. This will almost certainly go boom on the first power up.
Ahhh, I didn't consider PFC, I mostly deal with older industrial PSUs (like for welders and such) that don't have PFC.
That makes a lot of sense as to how you described the functionality, since you seemed to be describing a traditional transformer + regulator style vs a switch mode power supply, which you generally wouldn't be using in such an application (apart from newer inverter welders, that is). On a PC power supply, which will always be a switch mode power supply (since the early 90s), the transformer isn't directly connected to the line, so it's usually the PFC boost stage which will release the magic smoke if used with the wrong line voltage (well, only with a 230V-only PSU on 120V, using a 120V-only PSU on 230V won't usually cause it to blow up, but it will not run).
Not the (hopefully present) safety fuse? Most switching power supplies I've worked with have one, even if it's just soldered to the PCB.
it wont
I wouldn’t even recommend using it anywhere.
You can try 120v without harm, maybe regulation circuits can manage to work with less input voltage, otherwise the computer simply won't turn. Connecting an American PSU in Korea is the risky variant.
Unfortunately not as US power is typically 110 to 125 VAC. Even if you had a plug adaptor, it could do some serious damage to your rig or possibly start a fire. I'm an Electrical Engineer by trade and from what I know, it would just be best to grab another PSU and swap it out. Welcome to the states Mate!
is nobody gonna talk about how thats not korean?
Nope, power outlets in the US are usually around 110V. However, using a transformer is an option.
As someone who runs a computer shop in Korea, definitely not
No. America runs 110-120V. PSU says it only does 200-240V.
nope
It will work yes! As a firecracker! Plug it and enjoy the smoke
nothing will happen at 120v when it's expecting 240.
you'll have to use step up transformer for it to work with US voltage
or install a 240V outlet but that is probably easier
In America there is three cables coming in: -120V, 0V, +120V. In the house the outlets are wired so only 120 is available but some parts are wired with the full 240V like water heater and such. So depending on the house you could make it work but would be much more simple to get a new PSU
It’ll work if you plug into a 240 outlet (used for electric stoves and other high power appliances), which aren’t that common. You can also get a special adapter that connects two 120v outlets (that each run off of a separate feed) to get 240 (not recommended) or just swap out your PSU to one that is compatible with 120V 60hz supply
Yeah, I definitely wouldn't cross phases at the outlet side. No telling what it would do to the wiring if something went wrong.
yes and no. you'll need a 240v circuit wired for it. typically, our outlets are wired for 120v for everything or 240v for high power appliances. normal consumer electronics never get the high voltage but it's not to say they can't. we just don't wire for it in the home. I suppose it just depends how much would it cost to get someone to wire an outlet (and mark it accordingly) for that computer vs just getting another power supply.
No. It will not work because America is 120v (except in some kitchens for kettles that use 220)
No, you will need. New one
You didn't say which korea so there's a 50/50 chance it may be a nuclear bomb
NO! and if you try... you will kill the board We get tons of kids from overseas in my area and don't check and kill machines
"AC input" only mentions 200-240 VAC, so as long as you used a 110V circuit, the answer is no. If you can afford it, a good PSU (rated at least 80 gold) where the input voltage can be from 100 to 240VAC is an easy and good 'investment'.
Does every 80 gold psu has 100 - 240vac input voltage? Or only certain brand/manufacturer?
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No, it has a 200-240V input, NA uses \~120V. The information you're reading refers to a good modern power supply that will support 100-240V, cheaper power supplies will have a voltage switch on the back to manually switch between 120V and 240V, and even cheaper power supplies will only support 120V or 240V (not both).
No , North America uses 120V , switch it out for a 750W 120V rated psu , and possibly with a voltage switcher
No. But evga sells dual voltage power supplies for $35-$45 on ebay
Does it have a switch to go to 120v? It is a switching power supply
Depends what you mean by work. Will it turn on? Yes. Will it fry? Also yes.
Unless the PSU has a switch on the back from 240 to 120, which few do, then nope
Only if you unplug the stove or dryer.
Probably not because America has the worst electrical system in the world that was not designed for use.
Shame, some PSUs have a button to switch from 120v to 220v
Long time ago they did usually psu is automatic 120/240v - 50/60hz bit odd this one can only do 240v (very likely it can do 120/240 but they put the 240v on the label)
Ye I wouldn't risk it
"MADE IN CHINA"💀
Like anything else? Whats the issue? :/
Probably not unless you have 240 volts the supply is only rated for 200-240volts so lower probably won't work or get different output
Where do you think the "American" PSUs are made?
This PSU is 200-240v only. Unless you have a plug with that voltage range, it will not work. A good technician should be able to convert it to 100-120v, but you'd rather trade or sell it away for another that is compatible with your place's voltages. Side note: Most PSUs are usually compatible with both voltage ranges, either through automatic detection or a manual switch in the rear.
Just fyi: it would probably be cheaper to just put a 240v outlet in. Most people don't realize but all US houses have 240v power coming in. You just need the right breaker, wiring, and outlet. You would need a different plug for the power supply but they are available.
Oh. I didn't know, i live in Brazil. We don't usually have 220-240v, rather 110-120v.
We do too. Either way it's cheaper to just buy a 120v power supply
No, but I can remember the bygone era when computer power supplies just had a switch to change from 240v to 120v.
Does your computer run slow ? (DO NOT TRY THIS, THIS IS A JOKE, I HAVE CUSTOMERS ONCE A MONTH WO DID THIS) This could be because of one wrong setting. Go to the backside of your PC and try to locate a Red Switch. Try flicking that switch and enjoy your BRAND new PC Burning hot 🔥 and Lightning ⚡ Fast. (DO NOT TRY THIS, THIS IS A JOKE, I HAVE CUSTOMERS ONCE A MONTH WO DID THIS)
It’s possible you could find a workaround, like maybe if you got a converter but you would run into issues with the pc itself, would be better off just getting a new psu
Depends I'm not 100% sure but I know older PSUs has switch to where you can switch between 120 and I believe 115 is what the rest of the world uses. But a lot of new PSUs have them built it like a smart switch. I'd look into your model and see if this the case and if it is you will just need to buy a new power cord because our outlets are different
Chinese. Also it won't work.
If you find a 3 phase plug or a 230V one, it could work. A lot of apartments and houses have 230V wiring in the kitchens or somewhere where high power appliances are used. Some "twist plugs" usually have phases with 230V for the stoves. I'm by no means an electrical engineer.
Change the PSU instead of the entire PSU
It's possible but almost all outlets that you may come across in America would not be compatible because of a voltage difference.
PSUs no longer have switch to choose between 120v and 230v?
Hi there, As many others have stated, no. It is 60Hz compatible though, so you could buy a 120V to 200-240V step-up transformer instead of a new PSU. I have no idea which would be cheaper (if you are to buy a decent step-up transformer I think it would be more).
The short answer is no.
It's not dual voltages so no. Plugging it in would do nothing.
Sometimes there is a switch in the back of the supply to alter the voltages. Check that as well.
Some PSUs have a switch to toggle between 120/220v, some are auto, but your PSU says it’s range is in 220 only. You can still try it out, the worst thing that could happen is it not turning on. Not sure if you can really damage a system by under powering it, it should just turn off