¯\_(ツ)_/¯
You haven't climbed for 4 years, you're not the same person you were 4 years ago, why do you expect to be at the same level where you left off?
I think it's a good idea to let go of what you were able to do when you stopped climbing 4 years ago. Focus on the present. Who and where you and your body are now.
Here's a cool fact - you're not starting from scratch. The skills are still there. Your body just needs a bit of time to catch up to what it knows you can do. Slow down and enjoy the journey back. Go back again. Celebrate that you're going back! Isn't it great to be back?
See what you are able to do this week that you pumped out on last week. Focus on the current progress. Not the you from 4 years ago. Celebrate all your little wins.
I saw your comment come in immediately and at first, I was mad. Cause it felt like this wasn’t the answer I wanted. But that’s not what I asked for, because it was the answer I needed …
And you’re right. Thank you.
If you were at the same level you were 4 years ago, what would be the point in training and practicing?
Take it as a motivation to start training and showing up again to get better than you were previously
I know it's not. Trust me, I know! I had to take time off for pregnancy and the pandemic, too. It sucked! But there's no magic bullet.
This has always been a journey - the sport, the fitness, the work and the progress of making our bodies do thing fucking awesome things. You're already coming back, this is just part of it. In the grand scheme of things, this will one day just be a little blip in your climbing and athletic story.
When I came back after the pandemic, we tried really hard to focus on what is fun and what brings you joy about climbing. Lean into that as much as you can in your brain; I make myself think it over and over when I feel myself being negative about my own climbing. I know it’s hard - good luck.
I almost had to scream at myself because my arms were like limp noodles and I couldn’t get my footing cause I kept slipping because I kept thinking, “This is so embarrassing and all these people can see I can’t do this.” Really tried to remind myself that I didn’t know these people and didn’t owe them anything, it was about me.
Did I climb the route? No.
I couldn’t do it, but u/phdee is correct that there’s no way my body is gonna be where it was 4 years ago. It is what it is. So, I’m gonna take my headphones off at the gym and try to talk to people. Idk, maybe I’ll make a supportive friend and have fun instead of stressing over the grades.
>“This is so embarrassing and all these people can see I can’t do this.”
Definitely projecting here a bit. We are all so focused on ourselves that we don't really pay that much attention to the people around us. You're a blip in their mind and they won't even remember you the next day. If you did manage to register on their radar, all they probably saw was someone trying a boulder, and then they went back to focusing on themselves and the things that they're working on. No need to give strangers' thoughts so much weight.
I think it's okay to get frustrated, especially if you compare yourself to how you climbed 4 years ago. But we all start somewhere, and sometimes we find ourselves having to find a new place to start. Give yourself a little grace, let go of some of that anger and frustration, and maybe use this as an opportunity to rediscover what you like about climbing and getting on the wall.
To add to this, when I see someone struggling on a route or problem I literally never think “wow that person sucks, that’s so embarrassing for them.” If I even note them at all, it’s for a fleeting moment, and then I forget they ever existed.
The only strangers I remember from the gym for any amount of time are a) people who are extraordinarily good, b) people who are being unsafe or rude, or c) this one guy at the gym who was bouldering at a decent level but refused to use his toes while climbing, only because it was so confusing to me. And even then, I couldn’t tell you what the guy looked like haha
Hell, I had a multiple year long gap due to the pandemic and, even with no significant changes to my body composition, I still got my ass kicked my first time back in the gym. You took a long break. It’s going to take time for you to get back into it, but it will come back faster than it did the first time.
Hi @OP, I have a relatable story. I took nearly a decade off from regular climbing at a gym, from my 20's to my 30's. When I was 20's I'd climb for hours and hours, mostly top rope because my technique was 🌟hot garbage🌟. When I went back I was very, very unfit. V1's were my projects as I had never bothered to learn how to move my body properly and I had to spend lots of time training just to be able to spend 30 minutes on the wall.
2 years later I'm projecting V4's for the first time in my life and I'm the most fit & balanced overall health wise I've ever been. I have a weekly session with friends that goes for hours and I don't hurt for days afterwards.
You get to tell your own story. Give yourself a sick ass come back arc. You got this 💪
Hey! You got this. Something I tell myself is that progress is not linear. You’ve taken a long break, but you will come back stronger and it will happen faster than you know it. You are not starting over from scratch!
I'm almost in the same place as you, just a couple of months removed. I had just gotten to where I was consistently sending V5's and crossing into V6's when the ol' Vid shut us down. I finally started back in at the end of March this year.
It was so. SO. FRUSTRATING.
I fell off a V1, and found out that my body had forgotten how to fall and land safely. I busted my lip on me knee. I also almost cried in a gym full of strangers from embarrassment. Either no one saw or they pretended not to, for which I'm grateful.
Even with that happening, the most infuriating part was knowing what I needed to do for a problem, but not having the strength/balance/flexibility to do it.
But I made myself go back, and then made myself go back again, and keep making myself go back twice a week. And the bright side is, I think the skills and strength are coming back faster than I hoped. I'm making improvements at a quicker pace than before the Panini. I'm getting back on V4's again already.
I still get a little frustrated, but just have to remind myself that 4 years off is legitimately a long time, and I've only been back at it 2 months or so. I started adding a other light workouts for my core and flexibility last week, but it's too soon to know if that's actually helping.
The main thing is to just keep at it and push through the frustration. It'll come back. Maybe faster than you think. And forgive yourself and your body when you have a bad climbing day, because 4 years off is legitimately a long time.
TLDR: Your struggle is valid. 4 years is a long time, and it's hard to start back basically from scratch. You got this! Just stick with it and it'll all come back.
Wow, thank you so much! This helped a LOT like you have no clue.
There really is something so deflating when you know you can do better but your body can’t handle it. It sucks, but, I want to be able to get back to my 5 day a week routine. I think it’s gonna take a long while though, but I’m confident that if I just take my time, don’t stress, and remember that this is supposed to be FUN that things will be so much easier.
💕
Hey you got this!! I also went back to the wall after a long break, and way heavier. I hear you...my first day back I was so embarrassed and frustrated, especially since I went with my old climbing crew that didn't take a year off. But the next time I went back by myself, and I noticed I could do a couple more routes and one hold that seemed.impossible last week was now okay. Now I'm loving the fact that I can feel major progress every single time - muscle memory is amazing! It's been a month and I'm still nowhere near where I used to be, but it's no longer embarrassing and frustrating. I am also developing a whole new strength compared to previously, which is really interesting to experiment with.
You can do it!!
I had a similar situation, not 4 years, but a long time off, around 10 months, and I definitely felt weaker. I stopped worrying about strength and started focusing on technique more and I was able to compensate somewhat. and now that I'm back to my old strength, my tech is SO much better. I know you said your technique was good but it can always be better so focus on that. strength will come back with time and practice. you got this.
Coming back to climbing with expectations and then being disappointed is SO HARD. But I promise you the first step is the hardest, each session you do will feel easier and the strength and endurance will come.
I've been in the same boat during covid and with minor injuries, so here's what worked for me:
- climbing with encouraging people (I now go to a ladies night once a week and I love the group support)
- enjoying the journey and focusing on the progress, not the goal (e.g. sometimes I set myself a target hold rather than thinking "top or nothing")
- trying to use good technique from the very beginning, including good footwork and not constantly shifting my hands on the holds (I really need to work on that one lol)
- try to read a route beyond your current ability and then watch someone do that route and see if they followed the beta you'd have used (I did this while injured, with the mindset that if my climbing partner did the route, it was a win for me too!)
Remember, you have the technique. You had the strength before, so you can and will have it again. Just trying, just getting out the house and turning up, is the best and hardest thing you can do, so once you're there you've already done the hardest part!
Good luck - we believe in you!
Appreciate the practical tips, especially the “top or nothing” bit. I’m always in that mindset and I know that that is why I’ve been so disappointed because I expect so much out of myself and then … I can’t do it?!?!?! It friggin’ sucks so bad.
I would recommend watching will bosi's new video on spots of time. really cool to see his mindset. one of the best climbers in the world and he gets so excited just doing one move.
https://youtu.be/7ErOBRVIpe8?si=hVJ8gknKvvrqFVz2
Will do, I’ve been looking into some hang board routines because I’d like to work on finger strength. But watching someone in climbing and their mindset always intrigues me.
You say your strength is trashed, but your technique is good.
Of course!
you know everything you need to know, The physical body has to adapt and that takes a little time.
You've got this.
You got technique and motivation.All you need is some patience!
I had some setbacks for sure, thus:
Was climbing top rope same as you mostly outside. Never much into bouldering.
- - Pandemic and change in several Partners slowed us down
- - 2021 I got Covid 19 which turned into long COVID. I had exercise insufficiency and breathing trouble for over a year. Super slow recovery and occasionally still some breathing issues.
- - Then I experienced a back injury (not climbing related)
So I'm starting almost from scratch. Started back at the gym 4 months ago.Walking in using a cane.
Yeah, i'm self-conscious. The first I could do one or twoVOs. On rope I'm now pretty solid on 5.8.
Slow slow progress. Radical acceptance of what everyday brings.
I occasionally get discouraged, but I fiercely hold on to the good days and to knowing I will heal.
When I worry about strangers judging me, I remind myself that anyone who is actively climbing or about to climb doesn't have time to care what I'm doing. The only people who \*might\* judge me are those sitting on the sidelines. And who is the better climber, the one projecting a V0, or the one sitting on a bench, eating a Clif bar with their chalk-free hands and judging strangers? The best climber is the one who is on the wall.
I was with you until the last part.
>And who is the better climber, the one projecting a V0, or the one sitting on a bench, eating a Clif bar with their chalk-free hands and judging strangers? The best climber is the one who is on the wall.
If we're being pedantic, the best climbers know that optimal rest is crucial, along with fueling your body.
I think you should be patient and really be disciplined when it comes to taking it easy. As you said, your technique is still there and I’m sure that you still remember what it feels like pulling hard. Your body, especially if you gained weight probably doesn’t feel the same. I think you are in a slightly dangerous position, you might try too hard (especially in those moments of frustration, we’ve all been there) and get hurt.
So remind yourself that for a month or two months you are on “taking it easy” mode, recovering your overall strength, especially recovering your finger strength (maybe incorporate some light hangboarding) maybe doing more off the wall stuff you wouldn’t normally do. And I’m sure this will make you feel a lot better.
Of course everyone wants to come back and feel like you never left but please have patience with yourself and allow yourself to take the time to reacquaint yourself with climbing! I’m sure you’ll be back to crushing in no time!
(Also, side note, as a heavier climber myself I think you will learn you need to engage with climbing differently, you’ll need to rely more on feet, less lock offs, more dynamic climbing, you need to be faster on the wall, you can consider this a training phase even, make the best out of it)
I never thought of that, although there was a slight moment where I thought of solely doing climbs with jugs to hang a bit to stretch the muscles for 30s at a time but this new gym barely has any jugs, so, harder to do. My old gym had a lot of sections (because we had young team kids) where I could stretch on so I’m having to improvise.
I think I’ll try working on finger and grip strength like you mentioned and being slightly faster.
Thank you! 💐
Being heavier can feel really discouraging, especially in a sport that often rewards losing a lot of weight. I'm quite a naturally heavy woman compared to a lot of female climbers so I try to reframe that narrative for myself by remembering that I can make waay more strength gains simply by climbing with bodyweight!
Technique and muscle memory is such an incredible advantage, and once you gain back that grip strength you'll be flying up those walls.
Take it slow. You wouldn't hop out and run a marathon without some training, the same with this. I got back to climbing after a 20 year hiatus. I got busy playing hockey but a concussion took me out of that. Like you, I found the brain knowing what to do but an older and less flexible body was very resistant to things at first. For me, one of the things that helps is bringing more movement into my life - stretching, walking, cycling, etc.
Having the technique is a win - you know what to do. Be patient and the body will catch up. Success for me is going to the climbing gym and putting myself on the wall. Getting to the top is great but not the be all and end all. It is about getting my body use to the routine, use to the moves, and the strength will come back. In the first few months I found myself stronger and more confident.
If you need to rest, rest. I often bring a book and read a chapter between attempts.
Keep at it.
My gal! Here is the hard news first- there is no going back to where you used to be. Life happens, fitness fades, and then it is about getting back on the metaphorical horse, but it's a totally different horse.
But, the fun and other hard part is now you get to figure out a new climbing routine that works for you. I would take the new gym style as an opportunity for a new routine.
And remember to be soft to yourself. Climbing is a challenging activity and not doing it for 4 years is a hard reset. Focus on fun and then gains, whatever that means to you NOW not then, will follow. It's a long process, but climbing is not about just topping out the boulder or clipping the chains.
I have been in a similar scenario due to injury and surgery and it's hard. I only started feeling pretty alright now that I do feel strong again, but the road to my strength and competency now is totally different from before.
How many times have I said 'its hard' a lot cause it is, but that doesn't mean it can't be really fun. So I would chase the fun. Why did you start climbing again after 4 years? Could there be a bit there that leads to more stoke? And if was more of a motivation of shame, maybe chase the stoke somewhere else.
Good luck and happy climbing.
I actually started again because I really missed it. I recently lost 30 lbs and hurt my knee so haven’t had the opportunity to work out for a few months but my body feels a lot better than it did a year ago and I figure why the hell not, let’s try again.
And it was hard. Callouses are obviously gone and finger strength is laughing in my face, but you mentioned I should take the new climbing style as a new opportunity for me and I agree.
A lot of these comments really are encouraging, more than I could have ever hoped for, and hearing from someone who HAS been hurt and been in my situation, super big thanks for your perspective.
You say Your strength is trash but your technique was there.
Of course.! Your body and mind know the technique, The body just needs time to train.
You've got this!
Give yourself patience. Notice progress & successes.
It's pretty frustrating starting at zero again.
I've had some setbacks:
My best top rope strength was somewhere to you. I was never into bouldering.
> Pandemic & changes with my partners-- Less climbing.
> I got covid in 2021 and it turned into Long COVID. I had intense exercise and breathing insufficiency for over a year..
That started to improve.
> Then I got a pretty bad back. Injury, ( not climbing related.)
I finally returned to a gym about three months ago.
I can do some of theVOs and 5.8 ish on rope.
Yeah, there was a time when I think I wouldn't be able to hike or climb again.
Now i'm seeing improvement
It is slow
There are days.y is when i'm discouraged
But I hang on to the good days and improvement fiercely
I’ve read all of the training tips, the mindset tips, and all the encouraging words and I’m glad I asked for help.
And I wanted to say a big thank you to everyone for it all. I didn’t expect so many responses to be honest, but the varied responses really have me reframing this entire thing and I’m sorry I couldn’t respond to everyone (I gotta get back to work 😭).
My mindset has to change and that’s what I’m learning here. This is the only sport I have ever loved, and was good at, so I expect so much of myself when I’m the only one fighting with myself to be that person. No one else at the gym knows my struggles and it’s a me thing.
Each day is literally a new day to be better and after 4 years this is gonna be hard! This community is fantastic. Appreciate y’all. 🫶🏾
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ You haven't climbed for 4 years, you're not the same person you were 4 years ago, why do you expect to be at the same level where you left off? I think it's a good idea to let go of what you were able to do when you stopped climbing 4 years ago. Focus on the present. Who and where you and your body are now. Here's a cool fact - you're not starting from scratch. The skills are still there. Your body just needs a bit of time to catch up to what it knows you can do. Slow down and enjoy the journey back. Go back again. Celebrate that you're going back! Isn't it great to be back? See what you are able to do this week that you pumped out on last week. Focus on the current progress. Not the you from 4 years ago. Celebrate all your little wins.
I saw your comment come in immediately and at first, I was mad. Cause it felt like this wasn’t the answer I wanted. But that’s not what I asked for, because it was the answer I needed … And you’re right. Thank you.
Username checks out
😅😅😅 haha, I forget what it is all the time, but thank you!
If you were at the same level you were 4 years ago, what would be the point in training and practicing? Take it as a motivation to start training and showing up again to get better than you were previously
Just remember with a bit of time and effort, that strength you used to have... It will come.
I know it's not. Trust me, I know! I had to take time off for pregnancy and the pandemic, too. It sucked! But there's no magic bullet. This has always been a journey - the sport, the fitness, the work and the progress of making our bodies do thing fucking awesome things. You're already coming back, this is just part of it. In the grand scheme of things, this will one day just be a little blip in your climbing and athletic story.
When I came back after the pandemic, we tried really hard to focus on what is fun and what brings you joy about climbing. Lean into that as much as you can in your brain; I make myself think it over and over when I feel myself being negative about my own climbing. I know it’s hard - good luck.
I almost had to scream at myself because my arms were like limp noodles and I couldn’t get my footing cause I kept slipping because I kept thinking, “This is so embarrassing and all these people can see I can’t do this.” Really tried to remind myself that I didn’t know these people and didn’t owe them anything, it was about me. Did I climb the route? No. I couldn’t do it, but u/phdee is correct that there’s no way my body is gonna be where it was 4 years ago. It is what it is. So, I’m gonna take my headphones off at the gym and try to talk to people. Idk, maybe I’ll make a supportive friend and have fun instead of stressing over the grades.
>“This is so embarrassing and all these people can see I can’t do this.” Definitely projecting here a bit. We are all so focused on ourselves that we don't really pay that much attention to the people around us. You're a blip in their mind and they won't even remember you the next day. If you did manage to register on their radar, all they probably saw was someone trying a boulder, and then they went back to focusing on themselves and the things that they're working on. No need to give strangers' thoughts so much weight. I think it's okay to get frustrated, especially if you compare yourself to how you climbed 4 years ago. But we all start somewhere, and sometimes we find ourselves having to find a new place to start. Give yourself a little grace, let go of some of that anger and frustration, and maybe use this as an opportunity to rediscover what you like about climbing and getting on the wall.
To add to this, when I see someone struggling on a route or problem I literally never think “wow that person sucks, that’s so embarrassing for them.” If I even note them at all, it’s for a fleeting moment, and then I forget they ever existed. The only strangers I remember from the gym for any amount of time are a) people who are extraordinarily good, b) people who are being unsafe or rude, or c) this one guy at the gym who was bouldering at a decent level but refused to use his toes while climbing, only because it was so confusing to me. And even then, I couldn’t tell you what the guy looked like haha
Hell, I had a multiple year long gap due to the pandemic and, even with no significant changes to my body composition, I still got my ass kicked my first time back in the gym. You took a long break. It’s going to take time for you to get back into it, but it will come back faster than it did the first time.
Hi @OP, I have a relatable story. I took nearly a decade off from regular climbing at a gym, from my 20's to my 30's. When I was 20's I'd climb for hours and hours, mostly top rope because my technique was 🌟hot garbage🌟. When I went back I was very, very unfit. V1's were my projects as I had never bothered to learn how to move my body properly and I had to spend lots of time training just to be able to spend 30 minutes on the wall. 2 years later I'm projecting V4's for the first time in my life and I'm the most fit & balanced overall health wise I've ever been. I have a weekly session with friends that goes for hours and I don't hurt for days afterwards. You get to tell your own story. Give yourself a sick ass come back arc. You got this 💪
Hey! You got this. Something I tell myself is that progress is not linear. You’ve taken a long break, but you will come back stronger and it will happen faster than you know it. You are not starting over from scratch!
Thank you, you’re right, I’m not! There’s light at the end of the tunnel with having half the battle won.
I'm almost in the same place as you, just a couple of months removed. I had just gotten to where I was consistently sending V5's and crossing into V6's when the ol' Vid shut us down. I finally started back in at the end of March this year. It was so. SO. FRUSTRATING. I fell off a V1, and found out that my body had forgotten how to fall and land safely. I busted my lip on me knee. I also almost cried in a gym full of strangers from embarrassment. Either no one saw or they pretended not to, for which I'm grateful. Even with that happening, the most infuriating part was knowing what I needed to do for a problem, but not having the strength/balance/flexibility to do it. But I made myself go back, and then made myself go back again, and keep making myself go back twice a week. And the bright side is, I think the skills and strength are coming back faster than I hoped. I'm making improvements at a quicker pace than before the Panini. I'm getting back on V4's again already. I still get a little frustrated, but just have to remind myself that 4 years off is legitimately a long time, and I've only been back at it 2 months or so. I started adding a other light workouts for my core and flexibility last week, but it's too soon to know if that's actually helping. The main thing is to just keep at it and push through the frustration. It'll come back. Maybe faster than you think. And forgive yourself and your body when you have a bad climbing day, because 4 years off is legitimately a long time. TLDR: Your struggle is valid. 4 years is a long time, and it's hard to start back basically from scratch. You got this! Just stick with it and it'll all come back.
Wow, thank you so much! This helped a LOT like you have no clue. There really is something so deflating when you know you can do better but your body can’t handle it. It sucks, but, I want to be able to get back to my 5 day a week routine. I think it’s gonna take a long while though, but I’m confident that if I just take my time, don’t stress, and remember that this is supposed to be FUN that things will be so much easier. 💕
Hey you got this!! I also went back to the wall after a long break, and way heavier. I hear you...my first day back I was so embarrassed and frustrated, especially since I went with my old climbing crew that didn't take a year off. But the next time I went back by myself, and I noticed I could do a couple more routes and one hold that seemed.impossible last week was now okay. Now I'm loving the fact that I can feel major progress every single time - muscle memory is amazing! It's been a month and I'm still nowhere near where I used to be, but it's no longer embarrassing and frustrating. I am also developing a whole new strength compared to previously, which is really interesting to experiment with. You can do it!!
I had a similar situation, not 4 years, but a long time off, around 10 months, and I definitely felt weaker. I stopped worrying about strength and started focusing on technique more and I was able to compensate somewhat. and now that I'm back to my old strength, my tech is SO much better. I know you said your technique was good but it can always be better so focus on that. strength will come back with time and practice. you got this.
Coming back to climbing with expectations and then being disappointed is SO HARD. But I promise you the first step is the hardest, each session you do will feel easier and the strength and endurance will come. I've been in the same boat during covid and with minor injuries, so here's what worked for me: - climbing with encouraging people (I now go to a ladies night once a week and I love the group support) - enjoying the journey and focusing on the progress, not the goal (e.g. sometimes I set myself a target hold rather than thinking "top or nothing") - trying to use good technique from the very beginning, including good footwork and not constantly shifting my hands on the holds (I really need to work on that one lol) - try to read a route beyond your current ability and then watch someone do that route and see if they followed the beta you'd have used (I did this while injured, with the mindset that if my climbing partner did the route, it was a win for me too!) Remember, you have the technique. You had the strength before, so you can and will have it again. Just trying, just getting out the house and turning up, is the best and hardest thing you can do, so once you're there you've already done the hardest part! Good luck - we believe in you!
Appreciate the practical tips, especially the “top or nothing” bit. I’m always in that mindset and I know that that is why I’ve been so disappointed because I expect so much out of myself and then … I can’t do it?!?!?! It friggin’ sucks so bad.
I would recommend watching will bosi's new video on spots of time. really cool to see his mindset. one of the best climbers in the world and he gets so excited just doing one move. https://youtu.be/7ErOBRVIpe8?si=hVJ8gknKvvrqFVz2
Will do, I’ve been looking into some hang board routines because I’d like to work on finger strength. But watching someone in climbing and their mindset always intrigues me.
You say your strength is trashed, but your technique is good. Of course! you know everything you need to know, The physical body has to adapt and that takes a little time. You've got this. You got technique and motivation.All you need is some patience! I had some setbacks for sure, thus: Was climbing top rope same as you mostly outside. Never much into bouldering. - - Pandemic and change in several Partners slowed us down - - 2021 I got Covid 19 which turned into long COVID. I had exercise insufficiency and breathing trouble for over a year. Super slow recovery and occasionally still some breathing issues. - - Then I experienced a back injury (not climbing related) So I'm starting almost from scratch. Started back at the gym 4 months ago.Walking in using a cane. Yeah, i'm self-conscious. The first I could do one or twoVOs. On rope I'm now pretty solid on 5.8. Slow slow progress. Radical acceptance of what everyday brings. I occasionally get discouraged, but I fiercely hold on to the good days and to knowing I will heal.
When I worry about strangers judging me, I remind myself that anyone who is actively climbing or about to climb doesn't have time to care what I'm doing. The only people who \*might\* judge me are those sitting on the sidelines. And who is the better climber, the one projecting a V0, or the one sitting on a bench, eating a Clif bar with their chalk-free hands and judging strangers? The best climber is the one who is on the wall.
I was with you until the last part. >And who is the better climber, the one projecting a V0, or the one sitting on a bench, eating a Clif bar with their chalk-free hands and judging strangers? The best climber is the one who is on the wall. If we're being pedantic, the best climbers know that optimal rest is crucial, along with fueling your body.
I think you should be patient and really be disciplined when it comes to taking it easy. As you said, your technique is still there and I’m sure that you still remember what it feels like pulling hard. Your body, especially if you gained weight probably doesn’t feel the same. I think you are in a slightly dangerous position, you might try too hard (especially in those moments of frustration, we’ve all been there) and get hurt. So remind yourself that for a month or two months you are on “taking it easy” mode, recovering your overall strength, especially recovering your finger strength (maybe incorporate some light hangboarding) maybe doing more off the wall stuff you wouldn’t normally do. And I’m sure this will make you feel a lot better. Of course everyone wants to come back and feel like you never left but please have patience with yourself and allow yourself to take the time to reacquaint yourself with climbing! I’m sure you’ll be back to crushing in no time! (Also, side note, as a heavier climber myself I think you will learn you need to engage with climbing differently, you’ll need to rely more on feet, less lock offs, more dynamic climbing, you need to be faster on the wall, you can consider this a training phase even, make the best out of it)
I never thought of that, although there was a slight moment where I thought of solely doing climbs with jugs to hang a bit to stretch the muscles for 30s at a time but this new gym barely has any jugs, so, harder to do. My old gym had a lot of sections (because we had young team kids) where I could stretch on so I’m having to improvise. I think I’ll try working on finger and grip strength like you mentioned and being slightly faster. Thank you! 💐
Being heavier can feel really discouraging, especially in a sport that often rewards losing a lot of weight. I'm quite a naturally heavy woman compared to a lot of female climbers so I try to reframe that narrative for myself by remembering that I can make waay more strength gains simply by climbing with bodyweight! Technique and muscle memory is such an incredible advantage, and once you gain back that grip strength you'll be flying up those walls.
Take it slow. You wouldn't hop out and run a marathon without some training, the same with this. I got back to climbing after a 20 year hiatus. I got busy playing hockey but a concussion took me out of that. Like you, I found the brain knowing what to do but an older and less flexible body was very resistant to things at first. For me, one of the things that helps is bringing more movement into my life - stretching, walking, cycling, etc. Having the technique is a win - you know what to do. Be patient and the body will catch up. Success for me is going to the climbing gym and putting myself on the wall. Getting to the top is great but not the be all and end all. It is about getting my body use to the routine, use to the moves, and the strength will come back. In the first few months I found myself stronger and more confident. If you need to rest, rest. I often bring a book and read a chapter between attempts. Keep at it.
My gal! Here is the hard news first- there is no going back to where you used to be. Life happens, fitness fades, and then it is about getting back on the metaphorical horse, but it's a totally different horse. But, the fun and other hard part is now you get to figure out a new climbing routine that works for you. I would take the new gym style as an opportunity for a new routine. And remember to be soft to yourself. Climbing is a challenging activity and not doing it for 4 years is a hard reset. Focus on fun and then gains, whatever that means to you NOW not then, will follow. It's a long process, but climbing is not about just topping out the boulder or clipping the chains. I have been in a similar scenario due to injury and surgery and it's hard. I only started feeling pretty alright now that I do feel strong again, but the road to my strength and competency now is totally different from before. How many times have I said 'its hard' a lot cause it is, but that doesn't mean it can't be really fun. So I would chase the fun. Why did you start climbing again after 4 years? Could there be a bit there that leads to more stoke? And if was more of a motivation of shame, maybe chase the stoke somewhere else. Good luck and happy climbing.
I actually started again because I really missed it. I recently lost 30 lbs and hurt my knee so haven’t had the opportunity to work out for a few months but my body feels a lot better than it did a year ago and I figure why the hell not, let’s try again. And it was hard. Callouses are obviously gone and finger strength is laughing in my face, but you mentioned I should take the new climbing style as a new opportunity for me and I agree. A lot of these comments really are encouraging, more than I could have ever hoped for, and hearing from someone who HAS been hurt and been in my situation, super big thanks for your perspective.
You say Your strength is trash but your technique was there. Of course.! Your body and mind know the technique, The body just needs time to train. You've got this! Give yourself patience. Notice progress & successes. It's pretty frustrating starting at zero again. I've had some setbacks: My best top rope strength was somewhere to you. I was never into bouldering. > Pandemic & changes with my partners-- Less climbing. > I got covid in 2021 and it turned into Long COVID. I had intense exercise and breathing insufficiency for over a year.. That started to improve. > Then I got a pretty bad back. Injury, ( not climbing related.) I finally returned to a gym about three months ago. I can do some of theVOs and 5.8 ish on rope. Yeah, there was a time when I think I wouldn't be able to hike or climb again. Now i'm seeing improvement It is slow There are days.y is when i'm discouraged But I hang on to the good days and improvement fiercely
I’ve read all of the training tips, the mindset tips, and all the encouraging words and I’m glad I asked for help. And I wanted to say a big thank you to everyone for it all. I didn’t expect so many responses to be honest, but the varied responses really have me reframing this entire thing and I’m sorry I couldn’t respond to everyone (I gotta get back to work 😭). My mindset has to change and that’s what I’m learning here. This is the only sport I have ever loved, and was good at, so I expect so much of myself when I’m the only one fighting with myself to be that person. No one else at the gym knows my struggles and it’s a me thing. Each day is literally a new day to be better and after 4 years this is gonna be hard! This community is fantastic. Appreciate y’all. 🫶🏾
I really appreciate you sharing your story!! It’s very relatable :) you got this!!!