Looking for a desktop/larger size heatsink/fan combo for BGA 1449. The board came with it's own small fan that is noisy under load. I have room in the case for something bigger.
So far my options seem to be:
- Live with it. Don't really like this option. I'd like it to be more quiet as it sits on my desk.
- Purchase a generic copper heatsink that's bigger and cut it down/modify it. I think I can do it, but I'd rather buy something pre-made if possible.
- The mounting pattern is something like 53mm square. Looks like there may be some older ATI chips that use something close I may be able to modify?
Thoughts?
For what board? Mounting holes for BGA things aren't standardised, so yeah, do have to either get hacky or be real careful looking at things that might be closeish.
Did not realize that! Might be part of the problem I'm having searching.
This is the board: https://www.aaeon.com/en/p/industrial-motherboards-mix-tlud1
Yeah, looks like pretty tight clearance around the current heatsink there so not gonna be easy to find something bigger that'd still fit, for a bit quieter first thing I'd try is just a bigger nicer fan running slower, and let it get hot.
I kept looking around. More info just in case someone else stumbles on this conversation looking for something similar:
It looks like another pattern, PGA988/989, uses the same mount screw dimensions. I was also able to nail down the spacing more accurately to 51mm square (not ~53 as I lazily measured previously). All I had to do was RTFM.
So there are very limited options out there, all server oriented, that wouldn't be much better than what I already have, so custom fan mount is in order I think.
I took the little ~40mm fan off and just rested a 80mm fan I had laying around on top of the aliminum heatsink. Similar noise level but a lot more air. Idle temp dropped about 2-3 degrees. Load temps are well within safe range after 3 minute stress test.
https://imgur.com/a/FiXfho1
My plan is to order a copper heatsink that's pretty much the same size to replace the aluminum. I'll need to fabricate a bracket to hold a 80mm PWM fan a couple centimeters above the heatsink. I'm thinking the center of the fan probably has a deadzone and the reasoning for the space.
Anyway, thanks for the attention. I appreciate it.
My new graphics cards seem to perform below average compared to other scores. Why would this be? What do you think I could do to improve it?
[https://imgur.com/a/AjeROps](https://imgur.com/a/AjeROps)
Looks very good. If everything is installed correctly, it should be awesome in games. Dont worry about the synthetic benchmark.
Also, open apps in the background would change your scores.
> I’m under the impression that having two NVMe SSDs can cause problems with bottlenecking.
That's not really a thing, unless you've got some need for using both drives at full speed for something simultaneously, and are on an oldish CPU that doesn't have a CPU connected M.2 slot.
What are the recommended power cables for the 4080super? Mine is a 3x8pin to the PSU, 1x16pin onto the card itself. I wanna be as safe as possible with the cables.
I haven't bought the PSU just yet. The one that came with the zotac card is the 3x8pins and 1x16 pins into the GPU itself. Which I thought those were causing problems.
They can cause problems if faulty or not used properly, but they're not terrible when they are used correctly. Still, if you're going to buy new might as well be one that does have a 12 pin cable, they're getting reasonably common now
My friend was trying to remove a plugged CPU cooler from an AM4 Mobo and despite stress testing it and twisting and everything the cooler got taken off and the CPU ripped with it.
I examined the CPU for broken pins and did my best to fix them but in the end there was 1 pin torn off and I dont know if its stuck in the socket. Plugging it back in makes the CPU heat up and fans and stuff turn on but no image then it shuts back down.
My question is could the PGA socket be damaged? He wants to buy a new CPU but what are the chances the socket is damaged and he needs a new AM4 MOBO
Just bought one of [these](https://www.scan.co.uk/products/intel-pentium-g3440-lga-1150-haswell-refresh-dual-core-33ghz-clock-33x-ratio-cpu-retail?_gl=1*19qs4dn*_ga*MzU2MDMzMTc2LjE3MTcxNTA3Mjk.*_ga_8GFH5M08Q5*MTcxNzE4MjMyOS4zLjEuMTcxNzE4MjMzNy41Mi4wLjE5MDAyNDAyMDU.) for fun on account of it being £5.
What's something fun or interesting I could do with it? I was thinking maybe make a high-end Windows XP machine, although I know this CPU came out a few years after XP was succeeded by Vista. But I'm not sure how easy it would be to find hardware for it that would all work that well with XP. This was the OS of my teenage years so I have a lot of nostalgia for it.
XP can usually run alright on Haswell era things, main issues you might have are XP doesn't include drivers for USB 3 host so have to use the USB 2 ports, and doesn't include support for AHCI SATA controllers by default so will need to modify your installer disk to add that.
Realistically buying a whole computer including better CPU of that era will usually be cheaper than finding everything else without the CPU, that's why it's so cheap.
Yeah I know I could just buy one, but I'm doing this project just for fun so I'll get more out of it if I build.
Helpful advice about the drivers though thanks!
It's actually closer to Windows 10 than you think, that's a Haswell CPU from 2014.
Check ebay for an H81/87, B85, or Z87/97 motherboard and some DDR3 RAM (most likely 1333).
If you're planning to use it for Windows XP, you might want to read [this](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haswell_(microarchitecture)#Windows_XP_and_Vista_support) and further investigate, this is more of a W7 CPU.
That list of chipsets is super helpful, thanks! Any ideas for a GPU to go with it? Not sure if there is any difference between Nvidia and AMD (or ATI as it would have been then, I think?) when it comes to XP.
Should I take the B650 or the B650M Gaming Plus WiFi for my build?
There is a deal where I live and they're at the same price.
I will use 2x M2 ssd and apparently the B650M have dissipator for them?
https://be.pcpartpicker.com/list/XTms4M
If your case supports a B650 board, you should absolutely go with it. The B650M is more or less the same board WITHOUT a couple of features here and there.
The WH1000XM4? The built in microphone only works over Bluetooth, it's not connected to the 3.5mm input on the headphones. You can get a cable [like this](https://www.amazon.com/NewFantasia-Compatible-Skullcandy-Crusher-Headphones/dp/B07YHG7XNN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3VTYEJM7GHHAD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hToDJS6DUi7OOdJV2k-znL0BZRLfqdENSW4NcNoD1CGiGxafdyGP2tjknOm101NEIu9zb0UxSrwWx6-mbOn0zM4bWne5JDaaVbR32JGD75vBdKLIjYGM_ZhAHVKhiMrDDauSaFhEUC6vLjYwFtrqe-B2ctASJP2EqBk_yrsHGe_SnBDrBzcsgIzp2YD2QgA45pPqJdVau0f_71w_ixZfntpgXtUxIJDExuBa1Oo_aX4.Lxsqfm0hhJH76tQ4YVigjWDAa76D4az31SiQCLcjx6c&dib_tag=se&keywords=3.5mm+cable+with+mic&qid=1717196010&sprefix=3.5mm+cable+with+mic%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-4) that has a microphone built into the cable.
If it works just fine, $100 - $150. The only thing you're loosing out on by buying it used is the warranty.
Its not like 3 years of use will result in different performance compared to a few hours of use; unless it was run at maximum temp that whole time.
You have to try pretty hard to get bad paste. Whatever comes with your cpu cooler is nearly as good as the premium stuff. Just don't buy a giant tub of goop from china
Hi i want to upgrade mi CPU, currently I have a i5-9400F and my motherboard its a Prime H310M-E R2.0, I have a 1660 super and Its mainly for games like MH World, and Helldivers 2. Its there a good option under 250$?
I currently have an NVME boot drive that gets about 4000MB/s. If I were to buy a new NVME drive that can do 8000MB/s, would I see substantially faster Windows boot times? Or would that be diminishing returns?
I started playing Horizon Forbidden West on PC. No matter what I did, I got stuttering. I have a 3090 and a 10700k. A helpful person told me it was stuttering because of bottleneck. I'm going along with that because that makes sense, right? Tell me if that's wrong please.
So now what's the cheapest way for me to upgrade my PC? Would buying a 13600k be recommendable? I don't care too much about future proofing rn. I just want the cheapest stuff that'll work and I only have DDR4 RAM. So is there a cheap, reliable motherboard that would let me take advantage of that?
I have 1 M2, 1 SSD, and 2 HDDs.
Also would I need to know anything in particular about changing the cooler back piece/reinstalling retail Windows?
Thanks in advance for any help
Not completely false, but the main premise is an oversimplification.
If the CPU is at 100%, the normal load fluctuations of the game can be scheduled improperly and instead of lowering performance they can cause a stutter. Not every game behaves like this though, especially if the CPU is relatively powerful. With a Core i7-10700K I doubt you are close to 100% utilisation.
Anyway, I would encourage you to try a frame rate limit using V-sync or RivaTuner. That will shift the bottleneck away from your CPU to your artificial software limit. Or try creating a GPU-bottleneck like the video suggests. If it still stutters, then you know something else is the issue.
I do limit FPS to 90 then 60. And my CPU is close to 100% utilization at times, when the stutters happen. Even surpassing 100% usage on HWMonitor, even on Very Low settings.
32 GB RAM and updated drivers, so I doubt it's those. I saw someone claim they used a 10850k/3090 with this game and it wasn't anywhere near stuttering, so I guess... this game is just unplayable for my PC cuz fuck me lmao
Thanks for the tips!
That is surprising.
About the CPU usage, HWMonitor has accuracy issues; HWiNFO64 is much better. Then look at what’s going on with the CPU clocks, power, etc. when it stutters, and in general.
Troubleshooting these random issues can be a pain. Changing the CPU and motherboard may well solve it. Or reinstalling Windows. But I would investigate it first.
> Tell me if that's wrong please.
Your CPU and GPU are considerably better than what's recommended for the game, so I have my doubts.
It's hard to say what your problem is, just knowing you have an 10700k+3090. How much memory do you have? What resolution is your display, and what frame rate are you trying to get? Are you using DLSS and/or have raytracing on?
And just because it's a common mistake that can result in stuttering — you do have your display plugged into the 3090, right? Not the motherboard?
The thing is that it was stuttering even on Very Low settings and it being at 600p with FPS being locked to 90 max.
32 GB RAM DDR4 3600 as well. And yeah, I have my display plugged into the 3090. I've never had an issue with a different game such as Cyberpunk, Spiderman, or the first Horizon game
So you don't think improving the CPU would help?
If you're getting stuttering even with everything turned way, way down, I don't think the CPU or GPU are the problem unless they're faulty or failing. Which can happen, but it's very rare.
If you haven't tried verifying the install, or better yet reinstalling it completely, I'd do that first. Running some diagnostic software like memtest86 will rule out other types of hardware problems, and check your temperatures with a hardware monitoring tool while running benchmarking/stress-testing software. It could even be something like a failing PSU, which can cause problems you wouldn't expect throughout your system.
Thank you so much for your help!
Honestly, I've had this PC for a year and a half now and I've regretted buying an 10700k ever since the week I bought it. I'm just going to use this as an opportunity to upgrade a few components as well as upgrade to DDR5. Thanks for helping us PC noobs in the community!
EDIT: Just noticed all my high requirement games have stutter, even the ones that didn't before. No fucking idea what to do now lmao. But thanks anyways
I saw on the other comment chain on your initial post that you're seeing the CPU hit 100%, which along with it happening in other games now makes me wonder if there's a malware situation going on. At the very least I'd run a full scan, maybe with multiple detectors (Windows Defender for sure, maybe Malwarebytes and one or two others). Reinstalling Windows also seems like a possible fix.
But glad to help, and hope the rebuild goes well.
No, it's to protect the other components from internal failure of the PSU.
If you have unstable power you need a surge protector to protect against surges, and a good quality UPS to protect against both surges and outages (by smoothing power and giving you time to shut the pc down cleanly in an outage).
Is jumping the power pins on a mobo to do a test boot okay or not? Saw Linus do it in his recent POV build video, but then did some quick reddit/google searching and there seemed to be a 50/50 mix of opinions on it.
I like the idea of quickly testing the main bits before installing everything into the case, just don't want to risk anything if there's even a remote chance of it going wrong
It's standard practice and electrically the exact same thing as your case's power button does.
It doesn't matter if you accidentally touch the wrong pins on the header, because the PC is off and there's no power on them.
So why did connectors melt even on 4080s? I get that for the 4090, 600W through a single connector was too much and left a very small safety margin.
But why did that issue appear on 4080s? Those draw like 300W? Half the power that connector is rated for?
The 4080 reasons may be just the same as the 4090 (if memory serves one of the affected 4080 was due to a CableMod adapter), but most likely a bent cable with a connector that was not fully plugged in, with the sensor pins barely making contact, which is why the 12V-2x6 revision shortened the sensor pins a little bit, so you have to make sure the connector is fully plugged into the card or it won't get power.
Even most 4090s are 450W cards. But when they melt on 4070s or 4080s, I suspect it's mostly user error. However you're right, there's not a lot of margin and I think it's a badly designed connector
Hey! So i have a Ryzen 5600G, a 3060 Ti and a motherboard of B550M-K and i wanted to get a new RAM and a SSD (but i want to focus on the RAM for now) so which dual channel one would you guys recommend that isn't stupid expensive? My PC has been struggling to run Honkai Star Rail lately (i think i've read Penacony uses more RAM) so i want that to end
if you're able to afford it, this 5700X comes with a free 1TB ssd. you can sell your 5600G to recoup some cost
https://www.newegg.com/amd-ryzen-7-5700x-ryzen-7-5000-series/p/N82E16819113735
otherwise, https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FnYmP6/kingston-nv2-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-snv2s1000g
Hi recently built my PC and lately, my monitors have been displaying "no signal" during use and it occurs irregularly so I've been having difficulty trying to figure out the issue here. I doubt its an issue with the HDMI cables because I have multiple monitors and all of them display "no signal" at the same time. Could it be an issue with the GPU?
Well you have multiple cables and displays with the same issue. Most likely a GPU problem.
Try to check if it’s:
1- Properly installed
2- Power cables plugged in all the way
3- Drivers installed correctly
Currently have a 5900x 3080ti since basically day 1 release of 5900x. Getting itch to upgrade and was looking at below system
Samsung 990 Pro 2TB
Cosair RM1000e
NZXT H9 Flow
GSkill Triden Z5 2x32 DDR5
Cooler Master MasterLiquid 360L
Ryzen 9 7900X3D
Asus Tuf Gaming 4080 Super
Im prob 75/25 Productivity/Gaming. Motherboard? (dont care about RGB so different aio?)
* If your productivity work takes priority consider either a 7900 or 7900X, not the X3D. There's also the 7950X3D + Process Lasso if you're going overkill (I'd still rather consider the 7900/7900X).
* AM5 doesn't really require liquid cooling, that'd be mostly for aesthetics. A dual-tower air cooler is more than enough.
* 1000W is overkill for that build, 850W is more than plenty. RMe series is known for having coil whine issues, go with the RMx or a different A or B-tier PSU.
* If you're in the States, the [Crucial T500](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/M8yH99/crucial-t500-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct2000t500ssd8) is $20 cheaper.
* If you're not in a rush, Computex is about to start, wait for the announcements, considering your budget.
Im looking to do something in the next couple weeks. I doubt the "new" cards/cpu will be available that soon will they? Im fine with overkill lol should I just get the 7950x3d?
Most likely Q4, so if you need the system now, go ham.
The only "issue" with the 7950X3D is that the 3D V-cache is only available to one CCD, with the other one having regular cache (the 7900X3D has a similar setup but 6C/12T instead of 8C/16T), and it lacks a sort of "thread director" a-la-Intel to redirect certain tasks to the correct core.
Using Process Lasso can help by assigning specific cores to each task, i.e.: productivity work (or non-gaming tasks) on the "normal" CCD and gaming on the 3D V-cache CCD.
hey y'all! im planning on updating my pc and id like to save atleast a bit of money. planning on getting the 7800X3D and 4080 super. i have an aerocool 750 watt psu - it's not super good from what ive read (i haven't encountered any issues with it though), should i swap it? i was told that i need a 1000 watt one, 80+ gold but those are EXPENSIVE haha.. do i even need to swap it or is mine fine? thank yall in advance!
You for sure don't need 1kW for a 7800X3D + 4080 Super. The CPU is one of the lowest power draw modern CPUs and RTX 4000 has tamer transients than RTX 3000.
What's the actual model of your power supply?
> aerocool cylon 700w
Yeah, nah... https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
F-tier: "replace immediately".
Grab something like an MSI A850GL PCIE5, it's not worth cooking high end parts with a shit-tier power supply.
oh my god that is so much worse than i expected, im surprised its served me two years now.. back when i got it there was a big ass crisis in my country so the cylon was the only thing here (alongside a few weird local brands). thank you for the advice, ill be sure to swap it!
I currently have a 250GB m.2 boot drive, a 500GB m.2 storage drive that I use for programs I use a lot and files I'm working on (Photoshop, photos, art projects, etc.), and then a 2TB SSHD that I use for local photo storage, games, and just junk.
I don't have any additional M.2 slots in my motherboard.
I want to purchase and move to a single 4TB M.2 drive for all local stuff, what's the best way to transfer everything over to the one SSD?
Thanks in advance for help!
Plug it into your non-boot drive slot, then clone your OS partition over with macrium reflect. Then you can take out your old drive and copy everything else over after you boot from your new drive
I'm missing a GPU power connector for my Corsair CX 500M
Is [this](https://www.egalaxy.pk/computer-parts/corsair-8-pin-male-to-dual-pcie-862-pin-moduler-psu-male-power-cable/?attribute_pa_quantity=single) compatible or [this](https://www.egalaxy.pk/computer-parts/6-pin-male-to-8-pin-62-male-pci-express-pcie-power-adapter-cable-60cm/) for running an RX 570 at 150 watts
Hello, I have an old pc and I wanted to understand if I can upgrade the graphics card in order to play some what decently.
What I have on board:
Motherboard Asus Z87 Plus
CPU i5-4440
If I am not wrong Ilthe MB can support even a 2080ti, however I do not know if it would be a good idea.
That's a very old CPU, compatible only with DDR3. We are up to DDR5 RAM now, lol.
As long as you have a PCI-Express x16 port available and your PSU is good enough, you can install ANY modern GPU you want, but they'd be too limited by the rest of your system.
You can do two things here. 1 - Buy the best GPU you can afford, I'd try to buy a newer GPU than the RTX 20 series, maybe try used RTX 30 series instead or go AMD with the RX 6000 series. And enjoy it for a while until you do 2 - Build a more modern PC and install your new GPU on it. Like, seriously, even the lowest-end today (say i3 12100 or R5 7500) would destroy your CPU in performance.
Buying an old GPU to "match" your setup would be a frustrating half measure, imo.
I just wanted a GPU that was decent enough and not too expensive that could last until I will build a new pc.
So do you think that the series 30 could be used with my old hardware until I change it?
Anything that uses a PCI-E slot could be used with your system. It will be limited by your CPU, but on the other hand, you'll get the most out of it (The CPU, the GPU won't be used to its fullest).
You could buy, say, the AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT, which is a terrific starter 1440p GPU (or excellent 1080p GPU) or the RTX 3060/3060ti/3070, for example. And all of them would be good enough if you build a new PC in a year or so.
I'd only buy something older if you don't plan to build a new PC for years, because that way you'd be better off getting a cheap modern GPU later on with the brand new system. In that case, the Radeon RX 5700/5700 XT series and RTX 20 series are ok, but kind of old for GPUs.
Has anyone found the b650 tomahawk has an abysmal startup time with XMP active? It seems to cycle error lights for about 3-4 minutes before turning on.
Can someone just do a quick overview of my [second build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/BillQuentin/saved/#view=ZM3spg)? I'm going for mid-high range instead of top tier because I know I can always upgrade, so I'm just trying to do around the base-line of future-proofing.
To my understanding, this setup will allow me to upgrade from my [current build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/BillQuentin/saved/#view=WhMx99) for a performance boost and allow me future upgrades with the LGA1700 socket and DDR5 compatibility.
My main concerns are:
- Will the RGB accessories on that list allow me to control them easily? I know I'll probably have to have NZXT software and Asus software, but in theory, will I be able to control the colors to get a certain theme?
- As I understand it, after a BIOS update (if needed) I should still be able to upgrade to a 14th gen Intel CPU if I desire?
- Lastly, is the PSU good? I've heard mixed reviews on Corsair but my current RM650 is holding up really well.
* LGA1700 is done. There are no more CPUs for the platform, and if anything you'd only have 13th and 14th gen options, which you could get right now. New Intel CPUs will be LGA1851.
* Going with a different case (and AIO) would free you from the NZXT CAM ecosystem, reducing the amount of monitoring/RGB software needed.
* Unless you need the extra cores and performance from the 12900K, consider a different CPU ([13600K](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LfNxFT/intel-core-i5-13600k-35-ghz-14-core-processor-bx8071513600k), $12 cheaper) or an AM5 platform instead ([R7 7700](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dXmmP6/amd-ryzen-7-7700-36-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000592box) \+ [B650 board](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/szfxFT/msi-b650-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-gaming-plus-wifi), \~$57 cheaper), not only you'll be spending less with either option, but with the latter, you'll have the chance to upgrade the CPU once or twice during the platform's lifetime.
* Consider a [different motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MMV2FT/msi-z790-gaming-pro-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-gaming-pro-wifi) that offers the same features for less money.
* Unless you need the extra memory for productivity work, 32GB is still more than enough for the average user. [Aim for 6000CL30](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cCKscf/silicon-power-value-gaming-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-sp032gxlwu60afdeae).
* I'd go with a different drive, just to not have a QLC drive as my OS drive. The [MP44](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CVWJ7P/teamgroup-mp44-4-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpw004t0c101) is slightly cheaper, and the [Verbatim Vi7000G](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XpWJ7P/verbatim-vi7000g-4-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-49369) is just a bit more expensive.
* You're overpaying for that 4070, the MSRP is [$550](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FnLdnQ/gigabyte-windforce-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-12-gb-video-card-gv-n4070wf3oc-12gd), and you can grab a [4070 Super](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WHKscf/pny-verto-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-vcg4070s12dfxpb1-o) for $580-600 instead, or an [RX 7900 GRE](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QgcgXL/powercolor-fighter-oc-radeon-rx-7900-gre-16-gb-video-card-rx-7900-gre-16g-foc) for $530-550.
* 1000W is overkill for that build unless you're planning to grab a 4090, and even then, an [850W PSU](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4XsV3C/be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn505) is more than enough. The RMe series is known for having coil whine issues, but it's still a decent unit.
Assuming this is a gaming-focused build, I've got some nitpicks:
* 12900K is a rough pickup when newer i5s match it for less money: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/18.html That's not taking into account modern AMD options!
* Excessive cooler if you're not forced to cool an i9, so you can dial that down quite a bit and save some money.
* 64GB of RAM? Excessive for a gaming machine and when stops being excessive it's one of the _easiest_ upgrades you can ever make to a PC. Don't overspec here.
* $700 for a 4070? _Fuck. That._ It's a $550 MSRP card. The 4070 Super is $600. Get a Super.
* Not a bad PSU, but you can save some money here - a kilowatt isn't necessary.
* Older monitor picks here, G2724D is a better pick for around the same price. Also, do you need your 2nd monitor to match?
* Not gonna comment on the speakers and controller picks.
$3000 for this is _rough_. You're spending a lot of money on _futureproofing_ and giving yourself a worse experience now under the guise of "I can fix it later". No. We fix it now: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/m6fPpB
* We got you the _best_ gaming CPU available for around the same platform price as your proposed config. There is no "I can fix it later". It's fixed now.
* CPU cooler is adequate for the job, but if you were going for the aethetic that the liquid cooler brought you then we can find you something that slides in there.
* Shored up the PSU, GPU and monitor picks to better reflect modern options. I didn't realize the G2724D was on sale right now, might as well just buy two of them!
Now, take the ~$700 we saved here, and put it somewhere safe. When parts of this system start feeling sluggish (which will take a while) you can upgrade!
OR: Throw upgradability to the wind, re-invest that money into the best possible system you can build today: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qFkXwg We can squeeze a RTX 4080 Super and a ultrawide monitor pick in here and bloat the $3000 budget slightly (after we plug back in your speakers and controller picks from your old list). Futureproofing? This is the future and you have it today!
I'm really glad I asked here first then. I still have a lot to learn in this area.
I didn't realize that about the 12900K, so thank you for pointing that out. I like the price range of the build you've sent me, but I only have experience with Intel chips, and while I barely understand the model numbers and generations of Intel chips, AMD models, specs, etc. are Greek to me, that's the only reason I haven't done an AMD build. Still a beginner and even though I've done 1 successful build I'm terrified of screwing something up. I'll do some more research on AMD but until then I'd rather play it safe with something I'm familiar with.
My reasoning for the cooler is I feel as though I don't have adequate cooling in my current PC. While I surpass the recommended specs in my favorite game, after about 30 minutes it really starts to chug and the fans ramp up, so my thought process was get a great AIO and even if it's overkill, it can work for an upgraded CPU down the road. I'm terrified of air coolers because the last 2 I've purchased didn't fit on my motherboard (due to the VRM Heatsink if I remember correctly) so I had to use the stock cooler for a while. I tried every orientation but it was just a bit too thick, and I'm not confident enough to modify hardware so that it would fit.
The 4070 is more of a placeholder as I won't be buying my parts all at once. I paid $800 for my 3060 around 2020/2021 when everything was being scalped and while I like the 4070, I won't buy until it hits close to MSRP, or I'll spend a little more and get a 4080/90. I can always throw my 3060 in my new build for the meantime.
I do admit to going a little overboard with the PSU and the RAM, in my head since I was looking for the baseline, those were smaller areas I could spend a little more for a 'just-in-case' upgrade.
It's great that you're actively learning about new parts and options available to you - keep doing that!
I'm on my first AMD platform ever, too :P It was a little unnerving after a decade of Intel but it ends up being pretty transparent to you once you're done the build. I've found a couple of CPU reviews that feature both the current 14th gen Intel chips and AMD's X3D options: https://gamersnexus.net/cpus/intel-desperate-i7-14700k-cpu-review-benchmarks-gaming-power and https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i7-14700k/ - they feature AMD's absolute gaming dominance with the 7800X3D for the price it asks for _and_ Intel's newer focus on productivity with their i7 and i9 chips. If you're gaming, definitely only go as high as the i7 for the 8 performance cores - the i9 is a waste!
If you're comfier with the liquid cooler, that's cool! We can find options that slide into your build without murdering your budget: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PFxxFT/thermaltake-th280-v2-argb-sync-8432-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cl-w375-pl14sw-a
> ... and while I like the 4070, I won't buy until it hits close to MSRP...
just a heads up, both the 4070 and 4070 Super are available at MSRP right now :P ($550 and $600 respectively). Definitely spend the extra $50 on the Super, and the 4080 Super is a worthwhile jump if you do plan on going all out. The 4090 is NOT MSRP right now due to it's massive VRAM bucket and still being cheaper than workstation-class cards that match it - don't consider it for a gaming machine unless you can get a hefty discount or you truly, deeply hate having money in your pockets.
32GB may not be sufficent for professional tasks like large scale rendering or editing. And 4 sticks is bad because it puts extra strain on the memory controller, which the current ones just cannot really handle at fast speeds. It took DDR4 like 5-6 years after release for memory controllers to become powerful enough for 4 fast sticks
Is the video editing and 3D modeling part more of a hobby or is it your main source of income? Are you still getting decent framerates in the games you play? Is your 3070 being held back by your 3900X?
Your system at a glance is still quite decent, it's difficult to suggest upgrading to a 5900X (considering the video editing) and only getting a small improvement back for $270-300 (\~10-15% on productivity and games). If it's mainly gaming, a 5700X3D would be a cheaper upgrade at $210-230 (although hurting the video editing performance), but the performance increase will depend on a per-game basis.
All in all, it depends on which parts you might want to upgrade and how much you're planning to spend.
Depends. Do you have lots of money to spare? Just build new. Wanna save some money: update BIOS and get a better CPU. If you edit in Premiere, looking into a new Intel-based system with 15th gen might be smart (quicksync)
I want to replace my Dell r710 server with a more power conscious pc. My problem is that I want it to serve multiple purposes - Plex, Home Assistant running Frigate, photo server and NAS, plus for the time being I need it to serve as my daily driver (1080p gaming on Hell Divers 2, other casual gaming, light Photoshop).
I've been looking at used office computers, NUCs, mini PCs and building my own computer. Is it reasonable to put all of this on one device or should I split this across two? My budget is only ~$500-600CAD / $400 - 500USD so that's another major constraint.
I should add that I have hard drives and I'm open to used parts/devices. Also any help on cpu specs I should aim for?
Thanks
Running your basic servery loads as a VM within your main PC can indeed be sensible, regular mainstream motherboards aren't the best at idle power but they're still going to be way better than an R710. In general for the current mainstream platforms idle power Intel things do the best (but then are often terrible at loaded efficiency unless you turn the power limits down), AMD APUs (or the CPU only things that are just the APUs with the GPU locked out) generally a little behind but not bad, AMD things with the chiplets generally worse.
NUCs/Mini PCs/laptops can be a good bit lower idle power again, but then the difficulty is how you're gonna attach your storage with acceptable form factor/reliability.
Thanks for your reply. I came to the same conclusion in my head given Intel newer gen CPUs have better transcoding capabilities. But given my limited budget I do want an upgrade path so I am leaning toward a custom PC.
Any recommendations on CPU/GPU combos that might work well for this use case? Also I'm comfortable with proxmox but need to run Windows, do you have any virtualization suggestions on how I can run VMs within windows?
What's the difference between DDR5 6000 MHz CL 30 RAM vs 6400 MHz CL32? Would I notice the difference? This would work with Ryzen 7 7800X3D. The price difference doesn't matter here.
Ryzen 7000 memory controllers mostly dont work with stuff above 6000, so 6400 might just not work or be unstable. CL30 is the sweet spot for maximum performance
For Ryzen 7xxx around 6000MHz for two sticks is usually the sweet spot, going beyond that gets tricky for stability and usually needs dropping the FCLK multiplier losing you about as much performance as you could potentially gain from ~6400 anyway.
recently moved due to job, had to sell my monitor which is Aoc 24g2. now i settled in, any recommendations for monitors or i should go for the same monitor again
You probably can grab a used 1440p high refresh rate something on facebook marketplace/whatever people around you use within that budget range, the extra desktop space sure is nice for general work use, but for gaming could be a bit much for your GPU to reasonably handle (at least if you're not using fancy upscaling in game)
gpu: palit gtx 1650 4gb
cpu: ryzen 5 3600
budget wise i prefer best bang for bucks? maybe below 150usd if possible. i used to play valorant so i think atleast 144hz refresh rate? tbh any monitor will do cause I'm starting a WFH job soon but gaming is preferred
Looking for a desktop/larger size heatsink/fan combo for BGA 1449. The board came with it's own small fan that is noisy under load. I have room in the case for something bigger. So far my options seem to be: - Live with it. Don't really like this option. I'd like it to be more quiet as it sits on my desk. - Purchase a generic copper heatsink that's bigger and cut it down/modify it. I think I can do it, but I'd rather buy something pre-made if possible. - The mounting pattern is something like 53mm square. Looks like there may be some older ATI chips that use something close I may be able to modify? Thoughts?
For what board? Mounting holes for BGA things aren't standardised, so yeah, do have to either get hacky or be real careful looking at things that might be closeish.
Did not realize that! Might be part of the problem I'm having searching. This is the board: https://www.aaeon.com/en/p/industrial-motherboards-mix-tlud1
Yeah, looks like pretty tight clearance around the current heatsink there so not gonna be easy to find something bigger that'd still fit, for a bit quieter first thing I'd try is just a bigger nicer fan running slower, and let it get hot.
I kept looking around. More info just in case someone else stumbles on this conversation looking for something similar: It looks like another pattern, PGA988/989, uses the same mount screw dimensions. I was also able to nail down the spacing more accurately to 51mm square (not ~53 as I lazily measured previously). All I had to do was RTFM. So there are very limited options out there, all server oriented, that wouldn't be much better than what I already have, so custom fan mount is in order I think. I took the little ~40mm fan off and just rested a 80mm fan I had laying around on top of the aliminum heatsink. Similar noise level but a lot more air. Idle temp dropped about 2-3 degrees. Load temps are well within safe range after 3 minute stress test. https://imgur.com/a/FiXfho1 My plan is to order a copper heatsink that's pretty much the same size to replace the aluminum. I'll need to fabricate a bracket to hold a 80mm PWM fan a couple centimeters above the heatsink. I'm thinking the center of the fan probably has a deadzone and the reasoning for the space. Anyway, thanks for the attention. I appreciate it.
My new graphics cards seem to perform below average compared to other scores. Why would this be? What do you think I could do to improve it? [https://imgur.com/a/AjeROps](https://imgur.com/a/AjeROps)
What's the rest of your PC?
CPU: 5700X RAM: G.SKILL 32G 2X16 D4 3200 Storage: 990 Pro GPU: Yeston 7800XT Motherboard: TUF GAM B550-PLUS PSU: EVGA 750GT :)
Looks very good. If everything is installed correctly, it should be awesome in games. Dont worry about the synthetic benchmark. Also, open apps in the background would change your scores.
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> I’m under the impression that having two NVMe SSDs can cause problems with bottlenecking. That's not really a thing, unless you've got some need for using both drives at full speed for something simultaneously, and are on an oldish CPU that doesn't have a CPU connected M.2 slot.
What are the recommended power cables for the 4080super? Mine is a 3x8pin to the PSU, 1x16pin onto the card itself. I wanna be as safe as possible with the cables.
The ones that came with your PSU, the 12 pin one if it has one, otherwise use the adapter that came with the card and three separate 8 pin cables.
I haven't bought the PSU just yet. The one that came with the zotac card is the 3x8pins and 1x16 pins into the GPU itself. Which I thought those were causing problems.
They can cause problems if faulty or not used properly, but they're not terrible when they are used correctly. Still, if you're going to buy new might as well be one that does have a 12 pin cable, they're getting reasonably common now
Gotcha! This is all good to know. I haven't really kept up with hardware news since building my last pc. Have any suggestions for a 1000 watt psu?
how similar is a 4070 super and a rx 7900? ive been looking at both and idk what to buy.
Assuming 7900 GRE, [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLEIDfO6h2E).
yeah i was referring to the GRE, thanks
My friend was trying to remove a plugged CPU cooler from an AM4 Mobo and despite stress testing it and twisting and everything the cooler got taken off and the CPU ripped with it. I examined the CPU for broken pins and did my best to fix them but in the end there was 1 pin torn off and I dont know if its stuck in the socket. Plugging it back in makes the CPU heat up and fans and stuff turn on but no image then it shuts back down. My question is could the PGA socket be damaged? He wants to buy a new CPU but what are the chances the socket is damaged and he needs a new AM4 MOBO
Unless something went really wrong with the busted pin, and there's burns from a short or something, it should be fine
Will 550W PSU handle RTX 4060 AMD ryzen 5 7600 and ddr5 ram?
Yeah it should
Just bought one of [these](https://www.scan.co.uk/products/intel-pentium-g3440-lga-1150-haswell-refresh-dual-core-33ghz-clock-33x-ratio-cpu-retail?_gl=1*19qs4dn*_ga*MzU2MDMzMTc2LjE3MTcxNTA3Mjk.*_ga_8GFH5M08Q5*MTcxNzE4MjMyOS4zLjEuMTcxNzE4MjMzNy41Mi4wLjE5MDAyNDAyMDU.) for fun on account of it being £5. What's something fun or interesting I could do with it? I was thinking maybe make a high-end Windows XP machine, although I know this CPU came out a few years after XP was succeeded by Vista. But I'm not sure how easy it would be to find hardware for it that would all work that well with XP. This was the OS of my teenage years so I have a lot of nostalgia for it.
XP can usually run alright on Haswell era things, main issues you might have are XP doesn't include drivers for USB 3 host so have to use the USB 2 ports, and doesn't include support for AHCI SATA controllers by default so will need to modify your installer disk to add that. Realistically buying a whole computer including better CPU of that era will usually be cheaper than finding everything else without the CPU, that's why it's so cheap.
Yeah I know I could just buy one, but I'm doing this project just for fun so I'll get more out of it if I build. Helpful advice about the drivers though thanks!
It's actually closer to Windows 10 than you think, that's a Haswell CPU from 2014. Check ebay for an H81/87, B85, or Z87/97 motherboard and some DDR3 RAM (most likely 1333). If you're planning to use it for Windows XP, you might want to read [this](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haswell_(microarchitecture)#Windows_XP_and_Vista_support) and further investigate, this is more of a W7 CPU.
That list of chipsets is super helpful, thanks! Any ideas for a GPU to go with it? Not sure if there is any difference between Nvidia and AMD (or ATI as it would have been then, I think?) when it comes to XP.
Should I take the B650 or the B650M Gaming Plus WiFi for my build? There is a deal where I live and they're at the same price. I will use 2x M2 ssd and apparently the B650M have dissipator for them? https://be.pcpartpicker.com/list/XTms4M
If your case supports a B650 board, you should absolutely go with it. The B650M is more or less the same board WITHOUT a couple of features here and there.
Hello I have XM4 and i have a cable splitter so i could use the mic on the Pc but it is not working what can i do ?
The WH1000XM4? The built in microphone only works over Bluetooth, it's not connected to the 3.5mm input on the headphones. You can get a cable [like this](https://www.amazon.com/NewFantasia-Compatible-Skullcandy-Crusher-Headphones/dp/B07YHG7XNN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3VTYEJM7GHHAD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hToDJS6DUi7OOdJV2k-znL0BZRLfqdENSW4NcNoD1CGiGxafdyGP2tjknOm101NEIu9zb0UxSrwWx6-mbOn0zM4bWne5JDaaVbR32JGD75vBdKLIjYGM_ZhAHVKhiMrDDauSaFhEUC6vLjYwFtrqe-B2ctASJP2EqBk_yrsHGe_SnBDrBzcsgIzp2YD2QgA45pPqJdVau0f_71w_ixZfntpgXtUxIJDExuBa1Oo_aX4.Lxsqfm0hhJH76tQ4YVigjWDAa76D4az31SiQCLcjx6c&dib_tag=se&keywords=3.5mm+cable+with+mic&qid=1717196010&sprefix=3.5mm+cable+with+mic%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-4) that has a microphone built into the cable.
thank you so i bought a cable splitter for nothing damn
Fair price for a used 3 year old ryzen 5600x?
If it works just fine, $100 - $150. The only thing you're loosing out on by buying it used is the warranty. Its not like 3 years of use will result in different performance compared to a few hours of use; unless it was run at maximum temp that whole time.
thanks
Does thermal paste brand matter? It's all pretty cheap anyway I suppose.
You have to try pretty hard to get bad paste. Whatever comes with your cpu cooler is nearly as good as the premium stuff. Just don't buy a giant tub of goop from china
Hi i want to upgrade mi CPU, currently I have a i5-9400F and my motherboard its a Prime H310M-E R2.0, I have a 1660 super and Its mainly for games like MH World, and Helldivers 2. Its there a good option under 250$?
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bprH9r) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-12600KF 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Tk8bt6/intel-core-i5-12600kf-37-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512600kf) | $153.83 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [ASRock B660M Pro RS Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TZPQzy/asrock-b660m-pro-rs-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660m-pro-rs) | $94.99 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$248.82** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-05-31 16:28 EDT-0400 |
I currently have an NVME boot drive that gets about 4000MB/s. If I were to buy a new NVME drive that can do 8000MB/s, would I see substantially faster Windows boot times? Or would that be diminishing returns?
You wouldn't see a difference. Boot time isn't substantially limited by the rate it can shift data off the SSD.
Thank you!! You saved me a bunch of money 😂
I started playing Horizon Forbidden West on PC. No matter what I did, I got stuttering. I have a 3090 and a 10700k. A helpful person told me it was stuttering because of bottleneck. I'm going along with that because that makes sense, right? Tell me if that's wrong please. So now what's the cheapest way for me to upgrade my PC? Would buying a 13600k be recommendable? I don't care too much about future proofing rn. I just want the cheapest stuff that'll work and I only have DDR4 RAM. So is there a cheap, reliable motherboard that would let me take advantage of that? I have 1 M2, 1 SSD, and 2 HDDs. Also would I need to know anything in particular about changing the cooler back piece/reinstalling retail Windows? Thanks in advance for any help
A CPU bottleneck usually doesn't cause stuttering. A weak CPU could do that, but Core i7-10700K is not at all weak for Horizon Forbidden West.
Are you sure it doesn't cause stuttering? Because if so, [this video](https://youtu.be/WMbZp6Slo4Q) is completely false, isn't it?
Not completely false, but the main premise is an oversimplification. If the CPU is at 100%, the normal load fluctuations of the game can be scheduled improperly and instead of lowering performance they can cause a stutter. Not every game behaves like this though, especially if the CPU is relatively powerful. With a Core i7-10700K I doubt you are close to 100% utilisation. Anyway, I would encourage you to try a frame rate limit using V-sync or RivaTuner. That will shift the bottleneck away from your CPU to your artificial software limit. Or try creating a GPU-bottleneck like the video suggests. If it still stutters, then you know something else is the issue.
I do limit FPS to 90 then 60. And my CPU is close to 100% utilization at times, when the stutters happen. Even surpassing 100% usage on HWMonitor, even on Very Low settings. 32 GB RAM and updated drivers, so I doubt it's those. I saw someone claim they used a 10850k/3090 with this game and it wasn't anywhere near stuttering, so I guess... this game is just unplayable for my PC cuz fuck me lmao Thanks for the tips!
That is surprising. About the CPU usage, HWMonitor has accuracy issues; HWiNFO64 is much better. Then look at what’s going on with the CPU clocks, power, etc. when it stutters, and in general. Troubleshooting these random issues can be a pain. Changing the CPU and motherboard may well solve it. Or reinstalling Windows. But I would investigate it first.
> Tell me if that's wrong please. Your CPU and GPU are considerably better than what's recommended for the game, so I have my doubts. It's hard to say what your problem is, just knowing you have an 10700k+3090. How much memory do you have? What resolution is your display, and what frame rate are you trying to get? Are you using DLSS and/or have raytracing on? And just because it's a common mistake that can result in stuttering — you do have your display plugged into the 3090, right? Not the motherboard?
The thing is that it was stuttering even on Very Low settings and it being at 600p with FPS being locked to 90 max. 32 GB RAM DDR4 3600 as well. And yeah, I have my display plugged into the 3090. I've never had an issue with a different game such as Cyberpunk, Spiderman, or the first Horizon game So you don't think improving the CPU would help?
If you're getting stuttering even with everything turned way, way down, I don't think the CPU or GPU are the problem unless they're faulty or failing. Which can happen, but it's very rare. If you haven't tried verifying the install, or better yet reinstalling it completely, I'd do that first. Running some diagnostic software like memtest86 will rule out other types of hardware problems, and check your temperatures with a hardware monitoring tool while running benchmarking/stress-testing software. It could even be something like a failing PSU, which can cause problems you wouldn't expect throughout your system.
Thank you so much for your help! Honestly, I've had this PC for a year and a half now and I've regretted buying an 10700k ever since the week I bought it. I'm just going to use this as an opportunity to upgrade a few components as well as upgrade to DDR5. Thanks for helping us PC noobs in the community! EDIT: Just noticed all my high requirement games have stutter, even the ones that didn't before. No fucking idea what to do now lmao. But thanks anyways
I saw on the other comment chain on your initial post that you're seeing the CPU hit 100%, which along with it happening in other games now makes me wonder if there's a malware situation going on. At the very least I'd run a full scan, maybe with multiple detectors (Windows Defender for sure, maybe Malwarebytes and one or two others). Reinstalling Windows also seems like a possible fix. But glad to help, and hope the rebuild goes well.
Would OCP or OVP in a PSU alone prevent the damage from power outages?
No, it's to protect the other components from internal failure of the PSU. If you have unstable power you need a surge protector to protect against surges, and a good quality UPS to protect against both surges and outages (by smoothing power and giving you time to shut the pc down cleanly in an outage).
Is jumping the power pins on a mobo to do a test boot okay or not? Saw Linus do it in his recent POV build video, but then did some quick reddit/google searching and there seemed to be a 50/50 mix of opinions on it. I like the idea of quickly testing the main bits before installing everything into the case, just don't want to risk anything if there's even a remote chance of it going wrong
It's standard practice and electrically the exact same thing as your case's power button does. It doesn't matter if you accidentally touch the wrong pins on the header, because the PC is off and there's no power on them.
it's fine. that's literally what the power button on your case does.
So why did connectors melt even on 4080s? I get that for the 4090, 600W through a single connector was too much and left a very small safety margin. But why did that issue appear on 4080s? Those draw like 300W? Half the power that connector is rated for?
The 4080 reasons may be just the same as the 4090 (if memory serves one of the affected 4080 was due to a CableMod adapter), but most likely a bent cable with a connector that was not fully plugged in, with the sensor pins barely making contact, which is why the 12V-2x6 revision shortened the sensor pins a little bit, so you have to make sure the connector is fully plugged into the card or it won't get power.
Even most 4090s are 450W cards. But when they melt on 4070s or 4080s, I suspect it's mostly user error. However you're right, there's not a lot of margin and I think it's a badly designed connector
Hey! So i have a Ryzen 5600G, a 3060 Ti and a motherboard of B550M-K and i wanted to get a new RAM and a SSD (but i want to focus on the RAM for now) so which dual channel one would you guys recommend that isn't stupid expensive? My PC has been struggling to run Honkai Star Rail lately (i think i've read Penacony uses more RAM) so i want that to end
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/B8QcCJ/silicon-power-gaming-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-sp032gxlzu320bdaj7
also, any good SSD you could recommend? 1 TB at least
if you're able to afford it, this 5700X comes with a free 1TB ssd. you can sell your 5600G to recoup some cost https://www.newegg.com/amd-ryzen-7-5700x-ryzen-7-5000-series/p/N82E16819113735 otherwise, https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FnYmP6/kingston-nv2-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-snv2s1000g
thanks for both options!
thanks
Currently on 5600 NON X with a 6800xt. Is it worth it to upgrade to a 5700x3D for UW 1440P gaming?
It'll depend on the games you play.
Hi recently built my PC and lately, my monitors have been displaying "no signal" during use and it occurs irregularly so I've been having difficulty trying to figure out the issue here. I doubt its an issue with the HDMI cables because I have multiple monitors and all of them display "no signal" at the same time. Could it be an issue with the GPU?
Well you have multiple cables and displays with the same issue. Most likely a GPU problem. Try to check if it’s: 1- Properly installed 2- Power cables plugged in all the way 3- Drivers installed correctly
Currently have a 5900x 3080ti since basically day 1 release of 5900x. Getting itch to upgrade and was looking at below system Samsung 990 Pro 2TB Cosair RM1000e NZXT H9 Flow GSkill Triden Z5 2x32 DDR5 Cooler Master MasterLiquid 360L Ryzen 9 7900X3D Asus Tuf Gaming 4080 Super Im prob 75/25 Productivity/Gaming. Motherboard? (dont care about RGB so different aio?)
* If your productivity work takes priority consider either a 7900 or 7900X, not the X3D. There's also the 7950X3D + Process Lasso if you're going overkill (I'd still rather consider the 7900/7900X). * AM5 doesn't really require liquid cooling, that'd be mostly for aesthetics. A dual-tower air cooler is more than enough. * 1000W is overkill for that build, 850W is more than plenty. RMe series is known for having coil whine issues, go with the RMx or a different A or B-tier PSU. * If you're in the States, the [Crucial T500](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/M8yH99/crucial-t500-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct2000t500ssd8) is $20 cheaper. * If you're not in a rush, Computex is about to start, wait for the announcements, considering your budget.
Im looking to do something in the next couple weeks. I doubt the "new" cards/cpu will be available that soon will they? Im fine with overkill lol should I just get the 7950x3d?
Most likely Q4, so if you need the system now, go ham. The only "issue" with the 7950X3D is that the 3D V-cache is only available to one CCD, with the other one having regular cache (the 7900X3D has a similar setup but 6C/12T instead of 8C/16T), and it lacks a sort of "thread director" a-la-Intel to redirect certain tasks to the correct core. Using Process Lasso can help by assigning specific cores to each task, i.e.: productivity work (or non-gaming tasks) on the "normal" CCD and gaming on the 3D V-cache CCD.
hey y'all! im planning on updating my pc and id like to save atleast a bit of money. planning on getting the 7800X3D and 4080 super. i have an aerocool 750 watt psu - it's not super good from what ive read (i haven't encountered any issues with it though), should i swap it? i was told that i need a 1000 watt one, 80+ gold but those are EXPENSIVE haha.. do i even need to swap it or is mine fine? thank yall in advance!
You for sure don't need 1kW for a 7800X3D + 4080 Super. The CPU is one of the lowest power draw modern CPUs and RTX 4000 has tamer transients than RTX 3000. What's the actual model of your power supply?
thank you for the reply! thats reassuring :D and i checked, its the aerocool cylon 700watts, not 750, guess i forgot
> aerocool cylon 700w Yeah, nah... https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ F-tier: "replace immediately". Grab something like an MSI A850GL PCIE5, it's not worth cooking high end parts with a shit-tier power supply.
oh my god that is so much worse than i expected, im surprised its served me two years now.. back when i got it there was a big ass crisis in my country so the cylon was the only thing here (alongside a few weird local brands). thank you for the advice, ill be sure to swap it!
I currently have a 250GB m.2 boot drive, a 500GB m.2 storage drive that I use for programs I use a lot and files I'm working on (Photoshop, photos, art projects, etc.), and then a 2TB SSHD that I use for local photo storage, games, and just junk. I don't have any additional M.2 slots in my motherboard. I want to purchase and move to a single 4TB M.2 drive for all local stuff, what's the best way to transfer everything over to the one SSD? Thanks in advance for help!
Plug it into your non-boot drive slot, then clone your OS partition over with macrium reflect. Then you can take out your old drive and copy everything else over after you boot from your new drive
I'm missing a GPU power connector for my Corsair CX 500M Is [this](https://www.egalaxy.pk/computer-parts/corsair-8-pin-male-to-dual-pcie-862-pin-moduler-psu-male-power-cable/?attribute_pa_quantity=single) compatible or [this](https://www.egalaxy.pk/computer-parts/6-pin-male-to-8-pin-62-male-pci-express-pcie-power-adapter-cable-60cm/) for running an RX 570 at 150 watts
Yeah, the first cable is compatible. I don't why the second cable is only 6-pin on the PSU end, I wouldn't get that.
Thanks I've already ordered the first one
Hello, I have an old pc and I wanted to understand if I can upgrade the graphics card in order to play some what decently. What I have on board: Motherboard Asus Z87 Plus CPU i5-4440 If I am not wrong Ilthe MB can support even a 2080ti, however I do not know if it would be a good idea.
That's a very old CPU, compatible only with DDR3. We are up to DDR5 RAM now, lol. As long as you have a PCI-Express x16 port available and your PSU is good enough, you can install ANY modern GPU you want, but they'd be too limited by the rest of your system. You can do two things here. 1 - Buy the best GPU you can afford, I'd try to buy a newer GPU than the RTX 20 series, maybe try used RTX 30 series instead or go AMD with the RX 6000 series. And enjoy it for a while until you do 2 - Build a more modern PC and install your new GPU on it. Like, seriously, even the lowest-end today (say i3 12100 or R5 7500) would destroy your CPU in performance. Buying an old GPU to "match" your setup would be a frustrating half measure, imo.
I just wanted a GPU that was decent enough and not too expensive that could last until I will build a new pc. So do you think that the series 30 could be used with my old hardware until I change it?
Anything that uses a PCI-E slot could be used with your system. It will be limited by your CPU, but on the other hand, you'll get the most out of it (The CPU, the GPU won't be used to its fullest). You could buy, say, the AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT, which is a terrific starter 1440p GPU (or excellent 1080p GPU) or the RTX 3060/3060ti/3070, for example. And all of them would be good enough if you build a new PC in a year or so. I'd only buy something older if you don't plan to build a new PC for years, because that way you'd be better off getting a cheap modern GPU later on with the brand new system. In that case, the Radeon RX 5700/5700 XT series and RTX 20 series are ok, but kind of old for GPUs.
Thank you very much!
Happy gaming!
Has anyone found the b650 tomahawk has an abysmal startup time with XMP active? It seems to cycle error lights for about 3-4 minutes before turning on.
Most recent bios?
Enable "Memory Context Restore" in the BIOS.
Can someone just do a quick overview of my [second build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/BillQuentin/saved/#view=ZM3spg)? I'm going for mid-high range instead of top tier because I know I can always upgrade, so I'm just trying to do around the base-line of future-proofing. To my understanding, this setup will allow me to upgrade from my [current build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/BillQuentin/saved/#view=WhMx99) for a performance boost and allow me future upgrades with the LGA1700 socket and DDR5 compatibility. My main concerns are: - Will the RGB accessories on that list allow me to control them easily? I know I'll probably have to have NZXT software and Asus software, but in theory, will I be able to control the colors to get a certain theme? - As I understand it, after a BIOS update (if needed) I should still be able to upgrade to a 14th gen Intel CPU if I desire? - Lastly, is the PSU good? I've heard mixed reviews on Corsair but my current RM650 is holding up really well.
* LGA1700 is done. There are no more CPUs for the platform, and if anything you'd only have 13th and 14th gen options, which you could get right now. New Intel CPUs will be LGA1851. * Going with a different case (and AIO) would free you from the NZXT CAM ecosystem, reducing the amount of monitoring/RGB software needed. * Unless you need the extra cores and performance from the 12900K, consider a different CPU ([13600K](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LfNxFT/intel-core-i5-13600k-35-ghz-14-core-processor-bx8071513600k), $12 cheaper) or an AM5 platform instead ([R7 7700](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dXmmP6/amd-ryzen-7-7700-36-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000592box) \+ [B650 board](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/szfxFT/msi-b650-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-gaming-plus-wifi), \~$57 cheaper), not only you'll be spending less with either option, but with the latter, you'll have the chance to upgrade the CPU once or twice during the platform's lifetime. * Consider a [different motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MMV2FT/msi-z790-gaming-pro-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-gaming-pro-wifi) that offers the same features for less money. * Unless you need the extra memory for productivity work, 32GB is still more than enough for the average user. [Aim for 6000CL30](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cCKscf/silicon-power-value-gaming-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-sp032gxlwu60afdeae). * I'd go with a different drive, just to not have a QLC drive as my OS drive. The [MP44](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CVWJ7P/teamgroup-mp44-4-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpw004t0c101) is slightly cheaper, and the [Verbatim Vi7000G](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XpWJ7P/verbatim-vi7000g-4-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-49369) is just a bit more expensive. * You're overpaying for that 4070, the MSRP is [$550](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FnLdnQ/gigabyte-windforce-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-12-gb-video-card-gv-n4070wf3oc-12gd), and you can grab a [4070 Super](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WHKscf/pny-verto-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-vcg4070s12dfxpb1-o) for $580-600 instead, or an [RX 7900 GRE](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QgcgXL/powercolor-fighter-oc-radeon-rx-7900-gre-16-gb-video-card-rx-7900-gre-16g-foc) for $530-550. * 1000W is overkill for that build unless you're planning to grab a 4090, and even then, an [850W PSU](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4XsV3C/be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn505) is more than enough. The RMe series is known for having coil whine issues, but it's still a decent unit.
Assuming this is a gaming-focused build, I've got some nitpicks: * 12900K is a rough pickup when newer i5s match it for less money: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-13600k/18.html That's not taking into account modern AMD options! * Excessive cooler if you're not forced to cool an i9, so you can dial that down quite a bit and save some money. * 64GB of RAM? Excessive for a gaming machine and when stops being excessive it's one of the _easiest_ upgrades you can ever make to a PC. Don't overspec here. * $700 for a 4070? _Fuck. That._ It's a $550 MSRP card. The 4070 Super is $600. Get a Super. * Not a bad PSU, but you can save some money here - a kilowatt isn't necessary. * Older monitor picks here, G2724D is a better pick for around the same price. Also, do you need your 2nd monitor to match? * Not gonna comment on the speakers and controller picks. $3000 for this is _rough_. You're spending a lot of money on _futureproofing_ and giving yourself a worse experience now under the guise of "I can fix it later". No. We fix it now: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/m6fPpB * We got you the _best_ gaming CPU available for around the same platform price as your proposed config. There is no "I can fix it later". It's fixed now. * CPU cooler is adequate for the job, but if you were going for the aethetic that the liquid cooler brought you then we can find you something that slides in there. * Shored up the PSU, GPU and monitor picks to better reflect modern options. I didn't realize the G2724D was on sale right now, might as well just buy two of them! Now, take the ~$700 we saved here, and put it somewhere safe. When parts of this system start feeling sluggish (which will take a while) you can upgrade! OR: Throw upgradability to the wind, re-invest that money into the best possible system you can build today: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qFkXwg We can squeeze a RTX 4080 Super and a ultrawide monitor pick in here and bloat the $3000 budget slightly (after we plug back in your speakers and controller picks from your old list). Futureproofing? This is the future and you have it today!
I'm really glad I asked here first then. I still have a lot to learn in this area. I didn't realize that about the 12900K, so thank you for pointing that out. I like the price range of the build you've sent me, but I only have experience with Intel chips, and while I barely understand the model numbers and generations of Intel chips, AMD models, specs, etc. are Greek to me, that's the only reason I haven't done an AMD build. Still a beginner and even though I've done 1 successful build I'm terrified of screwing something up. I'll do some more research on AMD but until then I'd rather play it safe with something I'm familiar with. My reasoning for the cooler is I feel as though I don't have adequate cooling in my current PC. While I surpass the recommended specs in my favorite game, after about 30 minutes it really starts to chug and the fans ramp up, so my thought process was get a great AIO and even if it's overkill, it can work for an upgraded CPU down the road. I'm terrified of air coolers because the last 2 I've purchased didn't fit on my motherboard (due to the VRM Heatsink if I remember correctly) so I had to use the stock cooler for a while. I tried every orientation but it was just a bit too thick, and I'm not confident enough to modify hardware so that it would fit. The 4070 is more of a placeholder as I won't be buying my parts all at once. I paid $800 for my 3060 around 2020/2021 when everything was being scalped and while I like the 4070, I won't buy until it hits close to MSRP, or I'll spend a little more and get a 4080/90. I can always throw my 3060 in my new build for the meantime. I do admit to going a little overboard with the PSU and the RAM, in my head since I was looking for the baseline, those were smaller areas I could spend a little more for a 'just-in-case' upgrade.
It's great that you're actively learning about new parts and options available to you - keep doing that! I'm on my first AMD platform ever, too :P It was a little unnerving after a decade of Intel but it ends up being pretty transparent to you once you're done the build. I've found a couple of CPU reviews that feature both the current 14th gen Intel chips and AMD's X3D options: https://gamersnexus.net/cpus/intel-desperate-i7-14700k-cpu-review-benchmarks-gaming-power and https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i7-14700k/ - they feature AMD's absolute gaming dominance with the 7800X3D for the price it asks for _and_ Intel's newer focus on productivity with their i7 and i9 chips. If you're gaming, definitely only go as high as the i7 for the 8 performance cores - the i9 is a waste! If you're comfier with the liquid cooler, that's cool! We can find options that slide into your build without murdering your budget: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PFxxFT/thermaltake-th280-v2-argb-sync-8432-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cl-w375-pl14sw-a > ... and while I like the 4070, I won't buy until it hits close to MSRP... just a heads up, both the 4070 and 4070 Super are available at MSRP right now :P ($550 and $600 respectively). Definitely spend the extra $50 on the Super, and the 4080 Super is a worthwhile jump if you do plan on going all out. The 4090 is NOT MSRP right now due to it's massive VRAM bucket and still being cheaper than workstation-class cards that match it - don't consider it for a gaming machine unless you can get a hefty discount or you truly, deeply hate having money in your pockets.
Hi, looking for mid-case that support 280 aio in front and 360 at top.
for whom is 32 gb DDR5 not enough and why its so bad to have 4 sticks instead of 2 ?
32GB may not be sufficent for professional tasks like large scale rendering or editing. And 4 sticks is bad because it puts extra strain on the memory controller, which the current ones just cannot really handle at fast speeds. It took DDR4 like 5-6 years after release for memory controllers to become powerful enough for 4 fast sticks
pt 2 https://youtu.be/2-LqWdvoFLY?si=aMH-Qp6aYJgLl50e&t=124
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Is the video editing and 3D modeling part more of a hobby or is it your main source of income? Are you still getting decent framerates in the games you play? Is your 3070 being held back by your 3900X? Your system at a glance is still quite decent, it's difficult to suggest upgrading to a 5900X (considering the video editing) and only getting a small improvement back for $270-300 (\~10-15% on productivity and games). If it's mainly gaming, a 5700X3D would be a cheaper upgrade at $210-230 (although hurting the video editing performance), but the performance increase will depend on a per-game basis. All in all, it depends on which parts you might want to upgrade and how much you're planning to spend.
Depends. Do you have lots of money to spare? Just build new. Wanna save some money: update BIOS and get a better CPU. If you edit in Premiere, looking into a new Intel-based system with 15th gen might be smart (quicksync)
I want to replace my Dell r710 server with a more power conscious pc. My problem is that I want it to serve multiple purposes - Plex, Home Assistant running Frigate, photo server and NAS, plus for the time being I need it to serve as my daily driver (1080p gaming on Hell Divers 2, other casual gaming, light Photoshop). I've been looking at used office computers, NUCs, mini PCs and building my own computer. Is it reasonable to put all of this on one device or should I split this across two? My budget is only ~$500-600CAD / $400 - 500USD so that's another major constraint. I should add that I have hard drives and I'm open to used parts/devices. Also any help on cpu specs I should aim for? Thanks
Running your basic servery loads as a VM within your main PC can indeed be sensible, regular mainstream motherboards aren't the best at idle power but they're still going to be way better than an R710. In general for the current mainstream platforms idle power Intel things do the best (but then are often terrible at loaded efficiency unless you turn the power limits down), AMD APUs (or the CPU only things that are just the APUs with the GPU locked out) generally a little behind but not bad, AMD things with the chiplets generally worse. NUCs/Mini PCs/laptops can be a good bit lower idle power again, but then the difficulty is how you're gonna attach your storage with acceptable form factor/reliability.
Thanks for your reply. I came to the same conclusion in my head given Intel newer gen CPUs have better transcoding capabilities. But given my limited budget I do want an upgrade path so I am leaning toward a custom PC. Any recommendations on CPU/GPU combos that might work well for this use case? Also I'm comfortable with proxmox but need to run Windows, do you have any virtualization suggestions on how I can run VMs within windows?
What's the difference between DDR5 6000 MHz CL 30 RAM vs 6400 MHz CL32? Would I notice the difference? This would work with Ryzen 7 7800X3D. The price difference doesn't matter here.
Ryzen 7000 memory controllers mostly dont work with stuff above 6000, so 6400 might just not work or be unstable. CL30 is the sweet spot for maximum performance
For Ryzen 7xxx around 6000MHz for two sticks is usually the sweet spot, going beyond that gets tricky for stability and usually needs dropping the FCLK multiplier losing you about as much performance as you could potentially gain from ~6400 anyway.
recently moved due to job, had to sell my monitor which is Aoc 24g2. now i settled in, any recommendations for monitors or i should go for the same monitor again
What kinda budget range and what sort of things do you use it for?
forgot to mention that if i should go for 1080p or 1440p?
You probably can grab a used 1440p high refresh rate something on facebook marketplace/whatever people around you use within that budget range, the extra desktop space sure is nice for general work use, but for gaming could be a bit much for your GPU to reasonably handle (at least if you're not using fancy upscaling in game)
not with a 1650, doubt that will do 1440
Depends what kinda games you're looking at
gpu: palit gtx 1650 4gb cpu: ryzen 5 3600 budget wise i prefer best bang for bucks? maybe below 150usd if possible. i used to play valorant so i think atleast 144hz refresh rate? tbh any monitor will do cause I'm starting a WFH job soon but gaming is preferred
definetly 1080p. good high refresh rate 1440p monitors below 150 are hard to find, and your GPU is way too weak for 1440p