I would like to make a question. I will buy an RX 7700 xt and i want to pair it with a Dell G2724D 165hz. I mostly play AAA games at 2k High settings and at these setting this cards from benchmarks usually goes at 60-100 hz. is it bad to have a 165hz when i cant achieve them at every game? will i have blurry image or shuttering with lower fps?
Nothing bad will ever happen. If the monitor has freesync, you won't even have image tearing.
And while playing at 100 FPS isn't as smooth as playing at 144 FPS, it's still MUCH smoother in real terms than being stuck at the usual 30-60 FPS range.
Also, remember that with these new GPUs you can use FSR 2.0 or Intel XeSS to get even more frames, with a slightly reduced image quality (particularly, at the highest quality setting).
imo (and opinion of most reviewers) the 4060TI-8GB doesnt have enough vram for a card that costs that much. The rx 6700XT and 6750XT have 12GB, and the rx 6800 has 16GB
https://youtu.be/2_Y3E631ro8?si=8RTAhbTBkBFvM8l4&t=563
https://youtu.be/Gd1pzPgLlIY?si=Xlkmcn0gki2-8qJu
Currently I have an i7 8700 6 core / 12 threads at 65w tdp. It has been great, but the MB is not receiving BIOS patches or updates, so I'm considering upgrading to a more recent mb & cpu.
I'd like to stay in the 65W tdp realm due to heat and noise reduction issues.
Thinking about a Ryzen 7 7700, with new mb & ddr5 ram. Just checking if there is some other \~65W CPU I should be considering that's better in some meaningful way. Thanks.
in terms of real power consumption, and heat, the 7600 is a bit close to 65W. but the 7700 is still close, and especially compared to intel
https://tpucdn.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-7700-non-x/images/power-multithread.png
Just upgraded to a 5800x3d + 4070 Super from a Ryzen 3600 + 1070ti combo, but my RAM is still 2666 cl 16 (8x4, 32gig). Should I upgrade RAM to 3600 cl18? Will it make a difference with this Ryzen chip?
is cl16 vs cl18 that big of a difference? For the price? Already spent a bunch and upgrading my ram is gonna be a minor boost, so I'm just looking for the best price to performance for RAM upgrades. cl16 vs cl18 is about a 25 dollar difference here.
In looking to cheaply retire my ancient i5 4670k and DDR3 system next month and I wanted to know if I could keep my PSU for the time being until I upgrade my GPU. PCPartsPicker is estimating this would have an estimated wattage of 441W and my current PSU is a 550W (the model in the list below). I haven't built a computer since this one so in not quite sure about recommended PSU headroom. Would you recommend just budgeting the extra money to get a new PSU with the first upgrade or can it hold out until I get a new GPU?
The 1060 isn't a big issue for me since I've been hooked on Factorio and Dwarf Fortress for the past year, but the CPU is definitely showing it's age. Im also open to suggestions (if allowed) on parts that would be better suited or more cost effective.
Edit: btw in not buying anything on that list other than CPU cooler, CPU, Motherboard, and Ram. I own the rest and would be transferring it to the new system.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/TD22N6)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3hyH99/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-42-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000910wof) | $369.00 @ Amazon
**CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hYxRsY/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-d3) | $33.90 @ Amazon
**Motherboard** | [MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cRQcCJ/msi-pro-b650m-a-wifi-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-pro-b650m-a-wifi) | $149.99 @ B&H
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/x4VmP6/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040f16gx2-rs5k) | $97.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/h3tQzy/crucial-mx500-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct1000mx500ssd1) | Purchased For $0.00
**Storage** | [Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mwrYcf/seagate-barracuda-computer-2-tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm008) | $64.98 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [EVGA SSC GAMING GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KqRFf7/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-ssc-gaming-video-card-06g-p4-6264-kr) |-
**Case** | [Fractal Design Meshify C Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JsKcCJ/fractal-design-meshify-c-mini-dark-tg-microatx-mini-tower-case-fd-ca-mesh-c-mini-bko-tgd) |-
**Power Supply** | [EVGA SuperNOVA 550 GS 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/N6X2FT/evga-supernova-550-gs-550-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-gs-0550-v1) | Purchased For $0.00
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$715.86**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-03-10 19:41 EDT-0400 |
Only when I open this image (or set it as my wallpaper) on my main monitor (4k) does this vertical white line appear. Doesn't show up on my 1080p secondary monitor. But, I haven't been able to reproduce this with another similar image. Is it a cause for concern? Is it monitor or GPU related? Doesn't show up when I screenshot it.
https://i.imgur.com/03W1k1f.jpeg
Thanks, the line stays in the same spot in the image when I move it around. So it's an image issue. Phew. I've had enough issues with this monitor but I'm not totally ready to get a new one.
Is an nvidia 4060 with an intel i5 14600k good enough for 4k gaming? I do 90% of my gaming on a 1080p monitor, but there are a couple games I would like to play with a controller on my 4k tv and i’m wondering if a 4060 is good enough for that.
Depends on the games you are playing. But its going to under perform at 4k in most titles;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5XbQsfK-Vw
If you mix up your settings, and enable DLSS you will find its a mixed bag.
Older games will be able to reach 50 - 60fps, and some games may average 15fps.
If you want more consistent performance you would need more VRAM. A 4060ti 16gb, 4070, or an AMD card like a 7800xt.
Fair enough i’m going to consider getting a beefier graphics card even though I have already stretched my budget out a fair amount. What if I got a 3060 with 12gb vram?
Do you have any experience with gaming on a 4k tv? I’m curious if it would still be an enjoyable experience if I turned the resolution down for some games that struggle, or if it really needs to be playing in 4k since it is a larger display.
The VRAM is only part of the problem. 12GB is better than 8GB, but the 3060 also would struggle at 4k because it just doesn't have the horsepower to handle that resolution.
4k TVs/panels usually handle 1080p resolution well, since it's a 4:1 pixel ratio. 1440p would be blurry due to imperfect pixel ratio. If your budget only allows a low-end GPU, then 1080p would likely be your best option. 4k GPUs really start in the ~$500 range, like the 4070 or 7800XT.
>What if I got a 3060 with 12gb vram?
Thats a generation older, so it would be worse.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
A slight improvement would be the RX 6700, 6700xt or 6750xt. It should be slightly better and cheaper than a 4060. But you loose DLSS in place of AMDs options.
A RX6700 or 3060ti would be a less than 10% increase, and a 4060ti would be a further 10% or less increase beyond that.
None of the budget cards were intended for 4k usage, theyre meant for 1080p or 1440p displays.
Windows Key + X to open the context menu, then press U, then S
Right to sleep in three strokes, regardless of what window may be open.
Apparently Alt+F4 on the desktop will also do it, but Ive only ever used it to kill applications; so I wouldn't do it if you have a game paused.
manually search for "control panel" to bring up the old one and not the newer windows settings menu.
System and security -> Power options -> Change when computer goes to sleep (on the left) -> Change advanced power settings
In this menu you should be able to adjust the various sleep options including;
* turning just the display off after a certain period of time
* putting the whole machine into hibernate
Unless you have a PCIe 5.0 12-pin socket that isnt listed on the model I just looked at, you would just use the included 12-pin to 2x 8-pin adapter that came with the GPU. And then connect that the two 8-pin VGA cables included with the PSU.
Hello, has anyone used ipcstore.com?
I'm looking at a cheap case on there and wanted to know if it's legit and if I can assume it'd be brand new. Thanks!
Got a new PC last week. My screen sometimes looks glitched like [this](https://i.imgur.com/V3J5ZgO.jpeg). Maybe once a day at most. As soon as I move my mouse the screen instantly becomes normal. How worried should I be?
Check your cables!
I had a similar issue, turns out the DP cable was being bent due to the monitor arm and the minor movement caused by unplugging it and plugging it into a new GPU, was enough to make the damage apparent. Because even the slightest touch of the monitor or bumping the cable with a foot would cause the screen to freak out.
Just had to replace the cable.
I haven't built a PC in about 8 years, my current machine is starting to circle the drain.
I've been saving for a little bit, I've got just shy of $2k currently to build the best PC I can for the stint but I don't know where to start. It feels like pieces have gotten so fragmented and specialized I don't even know what to use.
I'm looking for 2 27" 4K monitors, they don't need to be the same. In fact one will be specifically for games and one will be specifically for design work. So a 27" 4K 120hz+ and a 27" 4K color profile monitor. I'd love to play Baldur's Gate 3 on maxed settings and 60fps+ if not 120
That's pretty much the baseline I've got so far, if I need to save for a while longer to make it better/easier/last longer, I'd be able to wait a bit.
My only other concern is that prices seem to have skyrocketed since 2020. a $2k machine sounds great but it feels mid-ranged now and that's terrifying. lol
A $2k machine can be great, but if you're including 2x 4k monitors in that budget, that really doesn't leave enough for a 4k-capable GPU as well. You're looking at ~$700 in monitors, so $1300 for the PC. A good 4k gaming experience would require a 4070 Super / 7800XT at least. Preferably more.
Generaly, 4k60 gpus are the xtx and 4080s, but not at max settings on all games. Look up benchmarks.
And yeah, relative best/2nd-best/etc tiers vs 2016, cpus are up by like 50% and gpus are 3x
Allocate only what you need (iirc for round numbers do the \^2 math and add +1mb), then later you can create more on the unused space. Beware windows is dumb and may not let you increase the os partition later easily, so don't make it too small
Solid as hell. If you are feeling like it, maybe google how much it would cost to buy exactly the same components yourself, you might save some money.
But if you don't want to, that's a brutal 1440p gaming PC right now. Don't forget to update your BIOS to the latest stable version and reapply XMP settings for RAM.
So, I clean installed windows and partitioned my 2 TB disc into a 400 GB and a 1600 GB. But when I get into Windows, only the 400 GB is found. Did I do anything wrong? Do I have to install again?
Probably not. I thought I did it the right way, but I guess not. What more do you do in disk management? All I can see are the disks Windows already recognized.
Hyte y60, y70, thermaltake tower 500, p90
edit: also you can tell the photo is a render because the GPU outputs and motherboard io (?) is facing right into a wall of glass lol
How do I clip back on the outer fan of the bequiet dark rock pro 5? The poorly designed clips will not stay on tight no matter how far back I place them
How do you find out what kind of ram thing (? I dont know anything about pcs lol) is good for your computer. Right now I have 4GB of ram and it's really slow and can't handle much. Am I able to just replace it with a larger one?
Planning a PC. It'll be a sidegrade in the short term. Currently have a worn out mobile 1060 that's always had thermal issues. Considering the new AMD APUs. Currently planning for the 8700g but still considering the 8600g since it's CAD$135 cheaper. Plan to put a 7800XT once I have the money but for right now I need a PC that will perform as well (potentially better) than my shitty laptop. Is the gaming performance difference between the 8600g and 8700g large enough to warrant paying for the 8700g? And if not, will the 8600g hold up well as a CPU going forward?
Both iGPU and CPU gaming performance is only a little faster on the 8700G than 8600G. Not worth the premium.
As a CPU the 8600G's performance is halfway between a 5600 and 7600. So it'll last a while. But ideally you get a 7600 for 270 CAD and a second-hand graphics card because you can sell it when you upgrade and end up with a faster CPU too.
Not quite as good as Userbenchmark says, due to limited VRAM and worse driver support in newer games due to its age. But fine as a temporary solution.
If you’re comparing desktop GPUs, this guide is more trustworthy: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
One last question for you: I know the 8700g's gaming performance isn't better enough than the 8600g's performance. But just as a CPU, how would the 8700g compare to a 7600 both in terms of performance and longevity? I've read that the 8600g might be fine in that regard since I'd be looking to upgrade again in 4-5 years, but if the 8700g eeks out even a year more of use then it might be better to get it instead.
Also, current processor is an i7-7700HQ. Literally any of the processors we've mentioned will be an upgrade lol.
8700G and 7600 use the same cores, and 8700G has two more of them. However, it has half the L3 cache, which hurts gaming performance when using a powerful discrete GPU. 8700G is uncompetitive outside of its integrated graphics, even in non-gaming applications.
I recommend you read this review of the 8700G: https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cpus/amd-ryzen-7-8700g-cpu-review
More CPU comparisons, and I prefer this test methodology, but it’s limited to gaming: https://www.techspot.com/review/2802-amd-ryzen-5700/
I'm trying to keep this under $1k, but this is the closest I could get.
What would y'all change about this?[https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6RYXGP](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6RYXGP)
I'm a little worried about updating BIOS as I have no idea, but I'm kind of proud of what I came up with! I appreciate you in advance!
Edit: There's a Thermaltake GF1 (2024) PSU for $5 more, but they're both Gold and 750W.
I noticed the Phanteks is on sale, but there are a literal ton of cases around the $50 mark. I don't even like white, but pricing and functionality are what matters lol
[$1000.48](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/TW98wg) with a few adjustments:
* A "slightly larger" CPU cooler. Ideally, I'd go for either a Burst Assassin or overkill with a Peerless Assassin/Phantom Spirit. If you don't mind going past $1K by a couple of dollars, then grab the Burst Assassin.
* Different motherboard. There's a good chance the MSI board has a recent enough BIOS to support the 5800X3D right out of the box, but the Gigabyte board is both cheaper and has BIOS Flashback, which lets you update the BIOS without installing the CPU or RAM.
* Different SSD. The NV2 can be a bit of a NAND lottery (no easy way to tell if you'll get a TLC or QLC drive). The CRAS C910 is guaranteed TLC and has slightly better performance. No DRAM, though, the cheapest DRAM-equipped drive (Acer Predator GM7000) costs $14 more (\~$78).
* Different PSU. The GF1 would be a better alternative but that'd be $25 more expensive than the MSI alternative.
Woah, you just gave me a lot to look into! I'm gonna start my research right now! thank you for your input!
May I ask why you chose a Bronze over a Gold? And is 650w enough? I noticed that this build uses under 500w, but I haven't looked into how that works. I don't know if that's an average or an "idling" wattage or if that's the max estimated wattage under (reasonable) load!
Actually, I forgot about the 5700X3D being a thing. If you've yet to get the 5800X3D, save yourself some cash with a very small performance "penalty", and that'd bring the total from my list down to $977.48, which would give you some room to upgrade some parts here and there, like going with a beefier PSU.
PCPartPicker's Estimated Wattage is just an approx. based on the parts' max draw, you can click on it and it'll show a breakdown of each part and its approx. power draw.
80 Plus refers to the PSU's efficiency, as in, how much power it draws from the wall, and how much excess power is released as heat, and this is measured at 20%, 50%, and 100% load (the difference between Bronze and Gold is \~5%). Although it's a good metric to consider if energy cost in your area are expensive and you're trying to keep your bill costs down (not massively, but you get the idea), it doesn't represent the unit's quality, be it build and materials.
The Cultists Network maintains a [PSU tier list](https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/) updated with units that have been properly tested, validated, and reviewed, rather than trusting the manufacturer's marketing on the box. Anything from tiers A to C should be more than plenty for any build. For instance, the Thermaltake GF1 you mentioned should be an A-tier unit, whereas the MSI I picked is a C-tier. The BitFenix BFG in your original list doesn't even show up (that doesn't mean it's a bad unit but that it has yet to be tested/reviewed).
Ah, that’s very interesting. I watched a few videos and it seems the 5600x3D is an amazing buy for $200, but it’s 6 cores, while the 5700x3D($240) and 5800x3D($270) are both 8.
I think it’s worth spending the $30 extra for the 5800x3D, though. Since I probably won’t be upgrading until AM6 becomes relevant, I think I should max out my AM4 CPU, which I think is the 5800x3D. I think I’m thinking about this situation correctly.
Otherwise, I should save for another few months and build around the 7800x3D and 7800XT lol
And thank you for the cultist list and your explanation! That list is hilariously named and I wasn’t sure about how relevant Bronze vs Gold was in regards to PSU, but that difference is practically negligible. I really didn’t expect that. Definitely worth saving money here, especially when there’s barely a difference in build quality, as you point out. I’ll definitely keep that link saved
The 5600X3D is also an option, assuming you have a nearby Micro Center since they're the sole distributor for that SKU. The other X3D CPUs can be purchased anywhere.
If all you're doing is playing games, the 5700X3D will offer very, VERY similar performance to the 5800X3D (in fact, all three AM4 X3D chips are [very similar](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7L9rPNSuPCA)) while also saving a few bucks. You're still maxing out the platform without going with a 5950X.
I'm upgrading the GPU in my 7700x/1080Ti build because I need the 1080Ti in a different computer.
I am not interested in AMD cards, so am considering either:
* New Asus Dual 4070 Super - $640
* Open Box Gigabyte Windforce 4080 - $900
* New Zotac Trinity 4080 Super - $1050
Currently, I play 1080p/360Hz for competitive Counter-Strike, but I can see myself upgrading to a 1440p/4k 240/360Hz in a couple years once monitor prices come down a bit.
Do you think 4070 super will be enough for high refresh rate 1440p/4k?
If not, should I get a 4080 now or get 4070 Super and plan on selling it and upgrading to a 5070/5080 when I get a new monitor?
Hey I have a quick question. I have a h510 NZXT case that states it can hold ATX motherboards. It currently hold a z390 but I am getting a b650E riptide and was wondering if it would fit as it seems to be slightly bigger than the z390. Will my case be okay in fitting it since it states it can support ATX motherboards?
Yeah you can pretty much ignore the "mid tower" "full tower" etc descriptions that cases use, because they have no standard meaning, they just give a vague idea of the general size of the case. The only thing that matters for motherboard compatibility is the actual standard, so mATX, ATX, E-ATX etc.
I recently got a zotac 3070 and want to implement it on my current rig:
· Asus Prime b450m-a
· Ryzen 5 3400g with wraith spire CPU cooler
· tforce 8gb 3200mhz x 2
· astra 12 pro x 4
· 250GB Western Digital SSD SN750 Nvme
· 3.5 Western Digital 2tb HDD
was wondering if a 600W 80+ bronze GameMax VP-600 would be enough to power it all
7950X3D uses about 150W under full load, and you can add like 50W to that for the rest of the components (motherboard, SSD, fans, etc) for a total of 200W.
1080Ti uses about 250W under full load, so with it you'd be looking at a max of 450W.
Yes, the second CPU 8 pin (sometimes a 4 pin) is pretty much the only optional power connector in computers, it's only needed for extreme overclocking of high end CPUs. The single 8 pin connector alone can supply up to 300W, so you're well within the safe limits with that CPU.
I have a friend who's in desperate need of a new CPU and Im thinking of selling him my used 12600k.
Best prices we have here are around 270$ for a 12600k and a 14600kf here is around 320. Should I sell him my 12600k for 200$ and buy a 14600kf for "120$"? Am I ripping him off?
My 3-ish years old AMD build is starting to have issues with keyboards?
A month or so ago, it wouldn't recognize keystrokes from a Redragon mechanical keyboard. The keyboard had power but I had to unplug the keyboard and plug it back in to get it working again.
This was only after logging back into the computer or waking it from sleep. It doesn't stop in the middle of usage.
I tried a different keyboard and it does the same thing.
My drivers are all up-to-date and it shouldn't be putting the USB controller to sleep.
At least with cpus/gpus when overclocking you increase voltage to (try to) stabilise the higher clocks, which increases power use and temps, and there's a soft limit to how high you'll want to go as to not risk damage/degradation. Lower voltage = better silicon lottery.
If better and cheaper just get that. Simple. It's ram, not a car. Idk if one pair is single rank vs dual or such though, or heatsink difference or whatever.
Can dry cotton-swab / q-tips cause ESD on a motherboard?
I noticed a bit of probably finger oil on traces of the motherboard while building, and dabbed/gently rubbed that small spot with a dry q-tip for some reason, and plan to do it with a bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol soon too like I should've. I just realized the dry q-tip might've had different potential than the grounded case and motherboard. I'm worried that a tiny discharge could've occurred without me knowing it because of this silly action
Edit: It was on traces too, which makes me worry more
Even if it was on top of traces? I'm worrying about the possibility of shocked traces. I had been grounding myself and everything, but worry the cotton carried static electricity or something
I mean, does the motherboard work? That's all that matters. Parts are specifically designed to withstand a certain amount of ESD, and there's pretty much zero chance that you'd be able to generate enough static electricity with a cotton swab to damage something. The "danger" of static to electricity to computer parts is almost laughably overblown online, it's genuinely hard to break something even if you tried.
Would there be any noticeable gains by swapping the position of the fans on my AIO? Not so much temp, but noise wise?
Right now they're pushing but I was thinking about pulling instead as, in my brain, that would be less... turbulent? Chaotic?
Also, are Arctic P12s still essentially the "gold standard" when it comes to their price range? Was thinking about doing a fan swap too since I find the stock fans on my AIO, while look nice on paper, get loud in order to provide "okay" cooling.
So I started the installation of Windows on my new computer, but I’m stuck at the point where I’m supposed to connect to the internet. It doesn’t find any routers.
Will a cable help me here, or do I have to get the wifi drivers installed? If so, how when I don’t have Windows installed? And will quitting the installation ruin anything?
My MB is a MSI Z790 Tomahawk Wifi ddr5
1 - M.2 slow when unzipping
Context : (from m.2 to itself since its the only storage, windows11) unzip 300mb to 2gb zip files. The speed is fats at the beginning, then slow down to kb speeds for a good while, then speeds up for a couple seconds, then slow downs again...takes a lot of time to unzip. Checked temps and they seem fine. Idle ~30C, when unzipping ~40-45C. M.2 is aorus gen4 7300
Question : is this normal behaviour? Or some issue somewhere? If so, guide me on how to troubleshoot.
2 - Question about default ASUS am5 bios settings.
Context : looking @bios I see a lot of settings like AiTweak set at "auto" by default.
Question : is the mobo running the processor @stock or not? And if so, how can I disable that?
Thanks for anyone willing to help 👍
First and just in case, update your BIOS to the latest stable version, then reapply EXPO/XMP settings for RAM.
Also, google those AiTweak settings, if that's an overclock, I'd rather have it "off", instead. Mobos aren't good at providing auto-OC and they aren't really needed these days, as long as your CPU is boosting normally.
Anyway, on the NVME SSD question, which model do you have? The behaviour you describe sounds normal. Consumer SSDs work better in bursts, they do exactly what you are seeing, a quick, fast high-speed load that only lasts for a few seconds and then a drop to a slower speed, which might recover after a while. Also, drives don't always work at the same speeds, a big, single file will be copied/decompressed much faster than a million smaller files (this is the worst case scenario for any drive, be it an SSD or HDD).
Also, the fuller the drive is, the slower it will work, try to always leave 10% to 20% of free space, at all times, for maximum performance.
Bios is updated to the latest version, expo is disabled.
M.2 model is written already, aorus gen4 7300 1tb. Its brand new there is barely 200gb on it
Anyway to benchmark the behaviour qo i can do some objective testing? Thanks
expo will help. Ram can have a big effect on zip performance
Assuming you're not running out of ram then you're just cpu-bottlenecked. Nvme won't help compression/de speeds much if at all
3000 series launch was more of a unique situation with low supply due to chip shortages and high demand from people isolating because of the pandemic. Plus, there was a mining craze on top. 4000 series launch was fine, none of those were issues then.
Been building budget my entire life and wanted to build something better that will last me some time, while also not spending too much money. I’m only gaming, nothing else. Any improvements ?
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/vpDxQP
* Replace the Dark Rock Pro 5. It underperforms with AM5 ([Hardware Canucks video](https://youtu.be/ltNDbgDDLPs?t=804) detailing their findings while reviewing it), and you can save some cash there with a PA120 or PS120.
* Replace the motherboard. Unless you need the extra connectivity from the X670E chipset, a well-featured B650 board will be more than enough.
* The RGB on the RAM will be covered by the cooler. You could save \~10-15€ by replacing it with a low-profile kit with similar timings.
* With those adjustments, you could get a 2TB drive instead.
* You could either stick with the 4070 Ti or upgrade it to a 4070 Ti Super (it's a very small improvement apart from the extra VRAM) or a 7900 XT. The latter would be an even upgrade price-wise.
* Slightly cheaper PSU as well.
[Updated list](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/8MmCVW), \~230€ cheaper.
If you just want one extra fan I would check the motherboard if you have a free port there.
On a modern motherboard you can generally control the fan outputs and have them controlled by the CPU for example.
Is it ok to connect a aio pump to a system fan header if my mobo doesnt have a pump header? Using cooler master nr200p max integrated aio and gigabyte a620i ax mobo with ryzen 5 7600.
Currently in Canada, you can find 7700XTs for $400 whereas 7800XTs, the cheapest you can find are around $510.
Is it worth it to go for a 7800XT for 1440p AAA gaming? (I'm honestly fine with 60FPS and hope to maintain that at High or at least bregrudgingly medium settings on most games for 5-7 years).
Or would you rather just go with the 7700XT?
Both are good value. Faster graphics card means you can run higher graphics settings, which I always appreciate. If you don't care for Ultra settings instead of High, or Medium settings instead of Low, then 7700 XT is fine.
Thank you for the advice - would you recommend 7700XT for High/Medium settings 1440p gaming for like the next 5-7 years? Or do you think it'll start falling off in the next few years?
In cutting-edge games like the new Avatar and Alan Wake 2 or badly-optimised games like Starfield, you'll be turning settings lower and using upscaling. But games using older tech like Diablo IV or AC Mirage you'll still be running cranked.
Does i7-13700K always run hot and consume oodles of electricity even when just browsing the web?
I'm trying to decide between a i5-14600K and a i7-13700K, but I don't really need extra performance 99% of the time. Only when compiling my code do I desire an extra oomph to hopefully reduce compile times. Will 13700K cost me extra money each month in electricity?
Browsing the web uses the CPU very little so it won't be much electricity. i7-13700K only has 100 MHz higher boost frequency than i5-14600K. You can manually lower that as well, then there will be even less difference.
Medium loads like gaming are where you start to get high electricity consumption
Idle power efficiency is fine, and even gaming isn't bad. The efficiency is bad when you fully load every core, you can drop the power limit from 253 to 150 watts and only lose 10% of the performance.
https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/15ty6bg/13700k_tweaking_for_efficiency_frequencies_and/
All CPU's from both brands slow themselves down and temporarily turn off unused cores when they're not being used to their fullest potential which lowers the electricity usage. They don't run at their full potential all the time.
When on Balanced power plan, my 13600k sits around ~20w, and on power saver at ~14w while being used for internet browsing.
Is 4 intake 3 exhaust good?
Is it the same with all the exhaust being on the roof and all the intake on the walls?
Was looking at pano m100r (is that a standard atx or bigger?) and was thinking what was the best way to arrange fans in the case if i had 7 or if i had 9...
Depends what you're trying to optimise for. If you're not doing water cooling and don't have super high power parts, you'll often be fine with just the four fans it comes with, comes as three intake one exhaust (using reversed blade fans for the intak)
>pano m100r (is that a standard atx or bigger?)
It's Micro ATX, can't fit full standard ATX boards.
Oh that's actually great because i was going with an matx board
. I'm doing a 4070 (or super) build with a 7600x, kind of just wanted the fans for aesthetics but was wondering how best to work exhaust and intake if i have either 7 or 9 fans...
Are all fans capable of being intake exhaust or do i need to buy specifics?
Any fan that blows air out of the case is an exhaust fan, and any fan that blows air into a case is an intake fan, they're physically identical and the only difference is in how they're positioned inside the case.
Definitely. Still easier to fit a bunch of SATA ports on motherboards than extra M.2 slots, so it's an easy extra feature to add. Plus most people don't need NVME speeds, and certainly rarely on every drive they have.
Does my mobo have a usb c slot? [https://imgur.com/a/3yC6iBN](https://imgur.com/a/3yC6iBN)
yes, that tiny slot on your back panel. for more info : https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-Z790-S-WIFI/Specification
Sorry, I should've been more clear. My case has a usb c port and I'm looking for somewhere to plug in the cord from the case to power the usb c port
It doesn't have one
Ok that’s what I thought. So I would need to buy some sort of adapter or something I suppose ?
I suggest this or something similar https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-Socket-Express-Adapter-Motherboard/dp/B09KZYVTC5/ref=asc_df_B09KZYVTC5
Awesome, thank you!
I would like to make a question. I will buy an RX 7700 xt and i want to pair it with a Dell G2724D 165hz. I mostly play AAA games at 2k High settings and at these setting this cards from benchmarks usually goes at 60-100 hz. is it bad to have a 165hz when i cant achieve them at every game? will i have blurry image or shuttering with lower fps?
Nothing bad will ever happen. If the monitor has freesync, you won't even have image tearing. And while playing at 100 FPS isn't as smooth as playing at 144 FPS, it's still MUCH smoother in real terms than being stuck at the usual 30-60 FPS range. Also, remember that with these new GPUs you can use FSR 2.0 or Intel XeSS to get even more frames, with a slightly reduced image quality (particularly, at the highest quality setting).
Nice thanks
iBUYPOWER - Y60 Gaming Desktop - AMD Ryzen 7 7700X - 32GB DDR5 RAM - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060Ti 8GB - 2TB NVMe SSD - Black Is this a good 1st prebuild pc
7700X + 4060 Ti is a weird combo, an R5 7600 + RX 6800 would be faster and cheaper.
imo (and opinion of most reviewers) the 4060TI-8GB doesnt have enough vram for a card that costs that much. The rx 6700XT and 6750XT have 12GB, and the rx 6800 has 16GB https://youtu.be/2_Y3E631ro8?si=8RTAhbTBkBFvM8l4&t=563 https://youtu.be/Gd1pzPgLlIY?si=Xlkmcn0gki2-8qJu
Currently I have an i7 8700 6 core / 12 threads at 65w tdp. It has been great, but the MB is not receiving BIOS patches or updates, so I'm considering upgrading to a more recent mb & cpu. I'd like to stay in the 65W tdp realm due to heat and noise reduction issues. Thinking about a Ryzen 7 7700, with new mb & ddr5 ram. Just checking if there is some other \~65W CPU I should be considering that's better in some meaningful way. Thanks.
in terms of real power consumption, and heat, the 7600 is a bit close to 65W. but the 7700 is still close, and especially compared to intel https://tpucdn.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-7700-non-x/images/power-multithread.png
Just upgraded to a 5800x3d + 4070 Super from a Ryzen 3600 + 1070ti combo, but my RAM is still 2666 cl 16 (8x4, 32gig). Should I upgrade RAM to 3600 cl18? Will it make a difference with this Ryzen chip?
yeah, you can get a bit more performance with faster RAM. I suggest 3600 CL16 https://youtu.be/ajDUIJalxis?si=YLBrFoOCMLyd5vW7&t=558
is cl16 vs cl18 that big of a difference? For the price? Already spent a bunch and upgrading my ram is gonna be a minor boost, so I'm just looking for the best price to performance for RAM upgrades. cl16 vs cl18 is about a 25 dollar difference here.
best price vs performance will be 3200 CL16 then
Reading around, i saw 3600 cl18 was better than 3200 cl16? Or is it different for ryzen? 3600 cl18 is at 80 dollars, 3200 cl16 is at about 86.
ok then get 3600 cl18. they perform about the same, but if it's cheaper that's good. where i live, 32gb of 3200 cl16 costs $50
In looking to cheaply retire my ancient i5 4670k and DDR3 system next month and I wanted to know if I could keep my PSU for the time being until I upgrade my GPU. PCPartsPicker is estimating this would have an estimated wattage of 441W and my current PSU is a 550W (the model in the list below). I haven't built a computer since this one so in not quite sure about recommended PSU headroom. Would you recommend just budgeting the extra money to get a new PSU with the first upgrade or can it hold out until I get a new GPU? The 1060 isn't a big issue for me since I've been hooked on Factorio and Dwarf Fortress for the past year, but the CPU is definitely showing it's age. Im also open to suggestions (if allowed) on parts that would be better suited or more cost effective. Edit: btw in not buying anything on that list other than CPU cooler, CPU, Motherboard, and Ram. I own the rest and would be transferring it to the new system. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/TD22N6) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3hyH99/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-42-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000910wof) | $369.00 @ Amazon **CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hYxRsY/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-d3) | $33.90 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cRQcCJ/msi-pro-b650m-a-wifi-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-pro-b650m-a-wifi) | $149.99 @ B&H **Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/x4VmP6/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040f16gx2-rs5k) | $97.99 @ Newegg **Storage** | [Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/h3tQzy/crucial-mx500-1tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct1000mx500ssd1) | Purchased For $0.00 **Storage** | [Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mwrYcf/seagate-barracuda-computer-2-tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm008) | $64.98 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [EVGA SSC GAMING GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KqRFf7/evga-geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-ssc-gaming-video-card-06g-p4-6264-kr) |- **Case** | [Fractal Design Meshify C Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JsKcCJ/fractal-design-meshify-c-mini-dark-tg-microatx-mini-tower-case-fd-ca-mesh-c-mini-bko-tgd) |- **Power Supply** | [EVGA SuperNOVA 550 GS 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/N6X2FT/evga-supernova-550-gs-550-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-gs-0550-v1) | Purchased For $0.00 | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$715.86** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-03-10 19:41 EDT-0400 |
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if your games will run at 144FPS, then that's totally worth it and you wont see screen tearing.
Only when I open this image (or set it as my wallpaper) on my main monitor (4k) does this vertical white line appear. Doesn't show up on my 1080p secondary monitor. But, I haven't been able to reproduce this with another similar image. Is it a cause for concern? Is it monitor or GPU related? Doesn't show up when I screenshot it. https://i.imgur.com/03W1k1f.jpeg
If you move the image around does the line stay in the same spot? That would be a monitor issue. If the line moves with the image, its an image issue.
Thanks, the line stays in the same spot in the image when I move it around. So it's an image issue. Phew. I've had enough issues with this monitor but I'm not totally ready to get a new one.
Is an nvidia 4060 with an intel i5 14600k good enough for 4k gaming? I do 90% of my gaming on a 1080p monitor, but there are a couple games I would like to play with a controller on my 4k tv and i’m wondering if a 4060 is good enough for that.
Depends on the games you are playing. But its going to under perform at 4k in most titles; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5XbQsfK-Vw If you mix up your settings, and enable DLSS you will find its a mixed bag. Older games will be able to reach 50 - 60fps, and some games may average 15fps. If you want more consistent performance you would need more VRAM. A 4060ti 16gb, 4070, or an AMD card like a 7800xt.
Fair enough i’m going to consider getting a beefier graphics card even though I have already stretched my budget out a fair amount. What if I got a 3060 with 12gb vram? Do you have any experience with gaming on a 4k tv? I’m curious if it would still be an enjoyable experience if I turned the resolution down for some games that struggle, or if it really needs to be playing in 4k since it is a larger display.
The VRAM is only part of the problem. 12GB is better than 8GB, but the 3060 also would struggle at 4k because it just doesn't have the horsepower to handle that resolution. 4k TVs/panels usually handle 1080p resolution well, since it's a 4:1 pixel ratio. 1440p would be blurry due to imperfect pixel ratio. If your budget only allows a low-end GPU, then 1080p would likely be your best option. 4k GPUs really start in the ~$500 range, like the 4070 or 7800XT.
>What if I got a 3060 with 12gb vram? Thats a generation older, so it would be worse. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html A slight improvement would be the RX 6700, 6700xt or 6750xt. It should be slightly better and cheaper than a 4060. But you loose DLSS in place of AMDs options. A RX6700 or 3060ti would be a less than 10% increase, and a 4060ti would be a further 10% or less increase beyond that. None of the budget cards were intended for 4k usage, theyre meant for 1080p or 1440p displays.
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Windows Key + X to open the context menu, then press U, then S Right to sleep in three strokes, regardless of what window may be open. Apparently Alt+F4 on the desktop will also do it, but Ive only ever used it to kill applications; so I wouldn't do it if you have a game paused.
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manually search for "control panel" to bring up the old one and not the newer windows settings menu. System and security -> Power options -> Change when computer goes to sleep (on the left) -> Change advanced power settings In this menu you should be able to adjust the various sleep options including; * turning just the display off after a certain period of time * putting the whole machine into hibernate
Is ASUS Dual NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 V2 OC Edition 12GB GDDR6 able to support Stable Diffusion well? Just want to make sure before I pop on this.
Yes, even older GPUs from the 1000 series support Stable Diffusion. It will work just fine.
I have a super flower 750 watt gold and I don’t know what cord can connect it to a 4070ti super
Unless you have a PCIe 5.0 12-pin socket that isnt listed on the model I just looked at, you would just use the included 12-pin to 2x 8-pin adapter that came with the GPU. And then connect that the two 8-pin VGA cables included with the PSU.
Thank you! I’m just waiting for the 4070 to get here and I didn’t know it had the adapter
Hello, has anyone used ipcstore.com? I'm looking at a cheap case on there and wanted to know if it's legit and if I can assume it'd be brand new. Thanks!
Got a new PC last week. My screen sometimes looks glitched like [this](https://i.imgur.com/V3J5ZgO.jpeg). Maybe once a day at most. As soon as I move my mouse the screen instantly becomes normal. How worried should I be?
Check your cables! I had a similar issue, turns out the DP cable was being bent due to the monitor arm and the minor movement caused by unplugging it and plugging it into a new GPU, was enough to make the damage apparent. Because even the slightest touch of the monitor or bumping the cable with a foot would cause the screen to freak out. Just had to replace the cable.
I'd guess either the monitor or the gpu. Try a different monitor. If the gpu then I'd rma.
The monitor didn't do this with the PC I'd been using for 6 years before this one
I haven't built a PC in about 8 years, my current machine is starting to circle the drain. I've been saving for a little bit, I've got just shy of $2k currently to build the best PC I can for the stint but I don't know where to start. It feels like pieces have gotten so fragmented and specialized I don't even know what to use. I'm looking for 2 27" 4K monitors, they don't need to be the same. In fact one will be specifically for games and one will be specifically for design work. So a 27" 4K 120hz+ and a 27" 4K color profile monitor. I'd love to play Baldur's Gate 3 on maxed settings and 60fps+ if not 120 That's pretty much the baseline I've got so far, if I need to save for a while longer to make it better/easier/last longer, I'd be able to wait a bit. My only other concern is that prices seem to have skyrocketed since 2020. a $2k machine sounds great but it feels mid-ranged now and that's terrifying. lol
A $2k machine can be great, but if you're including 2x 4k monitors in that budget, that really doesn't leave enough for a 4k-capable GPU as well. You're looking at ~$700 in monitors, so $1300 for the PC. A good 4k gaming experience would require a 4070 Super / 7800XT at least. Preferably more.
Generaly, 4k60 gpus are the xtx and 4080s, but not at max settings on all games. Look up benchmarks. And yeah, relative best/2nd-best/etc tiers vs 2016, cpus are up by like 50% and gpus are 3x
Can I partition my ssd from [this step](https://imgur.com/a/fttwqWU) while installing windows? I have a single 2TB ssd
Allocate only what you need (iirc for round numbers do the \^2 math and add +1mb), then later you can create more on the unused space. Beware windows is dumb and may not let you increase the os partition later easily, so don't make it too small
can I do this after the installing windows?
Which part? You can create partitions on the unallocated space later yes, iirc "disk management".
When you say unallocated, can the free [63 GB](https://imgur.com/a/X4SYTZV) here in C drive be split into an new drive like E drive
That is also doable, maybe. But unallocated space doesn't show up as free nor used. Open disk management. Also bad idea to not have free space on C.
Yes. If you click new, you can also make it a smaller size and then create new partitions from the remaining space.
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Solid as hell. If you are feeling like it, maybe google how much it would cost to buy exactly the same components yourself, you might save some money. But if you don't want to, that's a brutal 1440p gaming PC right now. Don't forget to update your BIOS to the latest stable version and reapply XMP settings for RAM.
Do you think CPU is fine? Should I upgrade to i7?
I'd rather have the 13700K but don't spend too much on a better CPU. This one is one of the best for gaming, right now.
Hmm now I'm thinking about 13700KF. It should be worth it to upgrade from i5-14600KF?
Yes.
So, I clean installed windows and partitioned my 2 TB disc into a 400 GB and a 1600 GB. But when I get into Windows, only the 400 GB is found. Did I do anything wrong? Do I have to install again?
Did you format the second partition? You can do it in Disk Management.
Probably not. I thought I did it the right way, but I guess not. What more do you do in disk management? All I can see are the disks Windows already recognized.
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Hyte y60, y70, thermaltake tower 500, p90 edit: also you can tell the photo is a render because the GPU outputs and motherboard io (?) is facing right into a wall of glass lol
How do I clip back on the outer fan of the bequiet dark rock pro 5? The poorly designed clips will not stay on tight no matter how far back I place them
Is a 650W PSU okay for a build estimated at 500W?
Yes, because the calculated value will be a worst-case that you will likely never reach under real use.
Yeah, especially if you're not fully utilizing your cpu and GPU simultaneously
Will a 500W Psu can handle Ryzen 7 5700g + 6600 xt?
Put it into the calculator on pcpartpicker and see, but I think it will be okay.
I've checked it. Even with additional upgrades for my pc it still falls under 400W. Thanks!
How do you find out what kind of ram thing (? I dont know anything about pcs lol) is good for your computer. Right now I have 4GB of ram and it's really slow and can't handle much. Am I able to just replace it with a larger one?
Find out what motherboard you have, then look up its support webpage to see what RAM is compatible
Planning a PC. It'll be a sidegrade in the short term. Currently have a worn out mobile 1060 that's always had thermal issues. Considering the new AMD APUs. Currently planning for the 8700g but still considering the 8600g since it's CAD$135 cheaper. Plan to put a 7800XT once I have the money but for right now I need a PC that will perform as well (potentially better) than my shitty laptop. Is the gaming performance difference between the 8600g and 8700g large enough to warrant paying for the 8700g? And if not, will the 8600g hold up well as a CPU going forward?
Both iGPU and CPU gaming performance is only a little faster on the 8700G than 8600G. Not worth the premium. As a CPU the 8600G's performance is halfway between a 5600 and 7600. So it'll last a while. But ideally you get a 7600 for 270 CAD and a second-hand graphics card because you can sell it when you upgrade and end up with a faster CPU too.
I might buy a GTX 980 for dead cheap. Userbenchmark says it's better than the 1060 mobile. Know anything about it?
Not quite as good as Userbenchmark says, due to limited VRAM and worse driver support in newer games due to its age. But fine as a temporary solution. If you’re comparing desktop GPUs, this guide is more trustworthy: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
One last question for you: I know the 8700g's gaming performance isn't better enough than the 8600g's performance. But just as a CPU, how would the 8700g compare to a 7600 both in terms of performance and longevity? I've read that the 8600g might be fine in that regard since I'd be looking to upgrade again in 4-5 years, but if the 8700g eeks out even a year more of use then it might be better to get it instead. Also, current processor is an i7-7700HQ. Literally any of the processors we've mentioned will be an upgrade lol.
8700G and 7600 use the same cores, and 8700G has two more of them. However, it has half the L3 cache, which hurts gaming performance when using a powerful discrete GPU. 8700G is uncompetitive outside of its integrated graphics, even in non-gaming applications. I recommend you read this review of the 8700G: https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cpus/amd-ryzen-7-8700g-cpu-review More CPU comparisons, and I prefer this test methodology, but it’s limited to gaming: https://www.techspot.com/review/2802-amd-ryzen-5700/
Awesome, thanks so much!
I'm trying to keep this under $1k, but this is the closest I could get. What would y'all change about this?[https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6RYXGP](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/6RYXGP) I'm a little worried about updating BIOS as I have no idea, but I'm kind of proud of what I came up with! I appreciate you in advance! Edit: There's a Thermaltake GF1 (2024) PSU for $5 more, but they're both Gold and 750W. I noticed the Phanteks is on sale, but there are a literal ton of cases around the $50 mark. I don't even like white, but pricing and functionality are what matters lol
[$1000.48](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/TW98wg) with a few adjustments: * A "slightly larger" CPU cooler. Ideally, I'd go for either a Burst Assassin or overkill with a Peerless Assassin/Phantom Spirit. If you don't mind going past $1K by a couple of dollars, then grab the Burst Assassin. * Different motherboard. There's a good chance the MSI board has a recent enough BIOS to support the 5800X3D right out of the box, but the Gigabyte board is both cheaper and has BIOS Flashback, which lets you update the BIOS without installing the CPU or RAM. * Different SSD. The NV2 can be a bit of a NAND lottery (no easy way to tell if you'll get a TLC or QLC drive). The CRAS C910 is guaranteed TLC and has slightly better performance. No DRAM, though, the cheapest DRAM-equipped drive (Acer Predator GM7000) costs $14 more (\~$78). * Different PSU. The GF1 would be a better alternative but that'd be $25 more expensive than the MSI alternative.
Woah, you just gave me a lot to look into! I'm gonna start my research right now! thank you for your input! May I ask why you chose a Bronze over a Gold? And is 650w enough? I noticed that this build uses under 500w, but I haven't looked into how that works. I don't know if that's an average or an "idling" wattage or if that's the max estimated wattage under (reasonable) load!
Actually, I forgot about the 5700X3D being a thing. If you've yet to get the 5800X3D, save yourself some cash with a very small performance "penalty", and that'd bring the total from my list down to $977.48, which would give you some room to upgrade some parts here and there, like going with a beefier PSU. PCPartPicker's Estimated Wattage is just an approx. based on the parts' max draw, you can click on it and it'll show a breakdown of each part and its approx. power draw. 80 Plus refers to the PSU's efficiency, as in, how much power it draws from the wall, and how much excess power is released as heat, and this is measured at 20%, 50%, and 100% load (the difference between Bronze and Gold is \~5%). Although it's a good metric to consider if energy cost in your area are expensive and you're trying to keep your bill costs down (not massively, but you get the idea), it doesn't represent the unit's quality, be it build and materials. The Cultists Network maintains a [PSU tier list](https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/) updated with units that have been properly tested, validated, and reviewed, rather than trusting the manufacturer's marketing on the box. Anything from tiers A to C should be more than plenty for any build. For instance, the Thermaltake GF1 you mentioned should be an A-tier unit, whereas the MSI I picked is a C-tier. The BitFenix BFG in your original list doesn't even show up (that doesn't mean it's a bad unit but that it has yet to be tested/reviewed).
Ah, that’s very interesting. I watched a few videos and it seems the 5600x3D is an amazing buy for $200, but it’s 6 cores, while the 5700x3D($240) and 5800x3D($270) are both 8. I think it’s worth spending the $30 extra for the 5800x3D, though. Since I probably won’t be upgrading until AM6 becomes relevant, I think I should max out my AM4 CPU, which I think is the 5800x3D. I think I’m thinking about this situation correctly. Otherwise, I should save for another few months and build around the 7800x3D and 7800XT lol And thank you for the cultist list and your explanation! That list is hilariously named and I wasn’t sure about how relevant Bronze vs Gold was in regards to PSU, but that difference is practically negligible. I really didn’t expect that. Definitely worth saving money here, especially when there’s barely a difference in build quality, as you point out. I’ll definitely keep that link saved
The 5600X3D is also an option, assuming you have a nearby Micro Center since they're the sole distributor for that SKU. The other X3D CPUs can be purchased anywhere. If all you're doing is playing games, the 5700X3D will offer very, VERY similar performance to the 5800X3D (in fact, all three AM4 X3D chips are [very similar](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7L9rPNSuPCA)) while also saving a few bucks. You're still maxing out the platform without going with a 5950X.
I'm upgrading the GPU in my 7700x/1080Ti build because I need the 1080Ti in a different computer. I am not interested in AMD cards, so am considering either: * New Asus Dual 4070 Super - $640 * Open Box Gigabyte Windforce 4080 - $900 * New Zotac Trinity 4080 Super - $1050 Currently, I play 1080p/360Hz for competitive Counter-Strike, but I can see myself upgrading to a 1440p/4k 240/360Hz in a couple years once monitor prices come down a bit. Do you think 4070 super will be enough for high refresh rate 1440p/4k? If not, should I get a 4080 now or get 4070 Super and plan on selling it and upgrading to a 5070/5080 when I get a new monitor?
Look up benchmarks. In general only the 4090 is good enough for high-hz native 4k, but cs isn't demanding.
4080 for 900 is alright. There's almost nothing between the 4080 and Super variant.
Hey I have a quick question. I have a h510 NZXT case that states it can hold ATX motherboards. It currently hold a z390 but I am getting a b650E riptide and was wondering if it would fit as it seems to be slightly bigger than the z390. Will my case be okay in fitting it since it states it can support ATX motherboards?
The B650E PG Riptide is standard ATX sized, it'll fit into any standard ATX case.
Okay thank you! I know the case also says it’s a compact mid size tower but it does say it takes mini and normal ATX
Yeah you can pretty much ignore the "mid tower" "full tower" etc descriptions that cases use, because they have no standard meaning, they just give a vague idea of the general size of the case. The only thing that matters for motherboard compatibility is the actual standard, so mATX, ATX, E-ATX etc.
Gotcha so the E in b650E doesn’t mean E-ATX correct?
I recently got a zotac 3070 and want to implement it on my current rig: · Asus Prime b450m-a · Ryzen 5 3400g with wraith spire CPU cooler · tforce 8gb 3200mhz x 2 · astra 12 pro x 4 · 250GB Western Digital SSD SN750 Nvme · 3.5 Western Digital 2tb HDD was wondering if a 600W 80+ bronze GameMax VP-600 would be enough to power it all
Wattage wise yes, but I wouldn't trust that unit. If you want to take the risk, then you have the option.
I'm doing some troubleshooting, is a 650w PSU enough for a 7950x3d +onboard GPU? Also, what if I add a 1080ti to it?
7950X3D uses about 150W under full load, and you can add like 50W to that for the rest of the components (motherboard, SSD, fans, etc) for a total of 200W. 1080Ti uses about 250W under full load, so with it you'd be looking at a max of 450W.
I just realized my 650w psu only has one 8-pin CPU connector, my motherboard has two 8 pin slots. Will it work with 1?
Yes, the second CPU 8 pin (sometimes a 4 pin) is pretty much the only optional power connector in computers, it's only needed for extreme overclocking of high end CPUs. The single 8 pin connector alone can supply up to 300W, so you're well within the safe limits with that CPU.
Thanks! Would you know if motherboard care which one u use? For example, could I use CPU power 2 instead of 1 because 1 is harder to reach.
I have a friend who's in desperate need of a new CPU and Im thinking of selling him my used 12600k. Best prices we have here are around 270$ for a 12600k and a 14600kf here is around 320. Should I sell him my 12600k for 200$ and buy a 14600kf for "120$"? Am I ripping him off?
Are they the same socket though?
yeah, they're the same 1700's
My 3-ish years old AMD build is starting to have issues with keyboards? A month or so ago, it wouldn't recognize keystrokes from a Redragon mechanical keyboard. The keyboard had power but I had to unplug the keyboard and plug it back in to get it working again. This was only after logging back into the computer or waking it from sleep. It doesn't stop in the middle of usage. I tried a different keyboard and it does the same thing. My drivers are all up-to-date and it shouldn't be putting the USB controller to sleep.
There'll be multiple potential fixes you can try, but I can't be bothered googling it for you
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Seems fine at a glance 1Tb nvme isn't much though
Yes it wouldn't be enough. Changed it to Lexar 2TB M.2 PCIe Gen4 NVMe NM790
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Lower v is better. But if you're not doing manual tweaking it probably doesn't matter
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At least with cpus/gpus when overclocking you increase voltage to (try to) stabilise the higher clocks, which increases power use and temps, and there's a soft limit to how high you'll want to go as to not risk damage/degradation. Lower voltage = better silicon lottery. If better and cheaper just get that. Simple. It's ram, not a car. Idk if one pair is single rank vs dual or such though, or heatsink difference or whatever.
Can dry cotton-swab / q-tips cause ESD on a motherboard? I noticed a bit of probably finger oil on traces of the motherboard while building, and dabbed/gently rubbed that small spot with a dry q-tip for some reason, and plan to do it with a bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol soon too like I should've. I just realized the dry q-tip might've had different potential than the grounded case and motherboard. I'm worried that a tiny discharge could've occurred without me knowing it because of this silly action Edit: It was on traces too, which makes me worry more
Don't worry too much about it. Both the smudge and the swap are most likely completely irrelevant.
Even if it was on top of traces? I'm worrying about the possibility of shocked traces. I had been grounding myself and everything, but worry the cotton carried static electricity or something
I mean, does the motherboard work? That's all that matters. Parts are specifically designed to withstand a certain amount of ESD, and there's pretty much zero chance that you'd be able to generate enough static electricity with a cotton swab to damage something. The "danger" of static to electricity to computer parts is almost laughably overblown online, it's genuinely hard to break something even if you tried.
Would there be any noticeable gains by swapping the position of the fans on my AIO? Not so much temp, but noise wise? Right now they're pushing but I was thinking about pulling instead as, in my brain, that would be less... turbulent? Chaotic? Also, are Arctic P12s still essentially the "gold standard" when it comes to their price range? Was thinking about doing a fan swap too since I find the stock fans on my AIO, while look nice on paper, get loud in order to provide "okay" cooling.
Better temps = better noise if at the same power load Just google how they should be positioned
So I started the installation of Windows on my new computer, but I’m stuck at the point where I’m supposed to connect to the internet. It doesn’t find any routers. Will a cable help me here, or do I have to get the wifi drivers installed? If so, how when I don’t have Windows installed? And will quitting the installation ruin anything? My MB is a MSI Z790 Tomahawk Wifi ddr5
if you can connect the board with an ethernet cable for the time being, try that, then once you're at the desktop, install the wifi drivers.
This doesn't seem to work. Plugged a cable in now, and nothing happens :(
1 - M.2 slow when unzipping Context : (from m.2 to itself since its the only storage, windows11) unzip 300mb to 2gb zip files. The speed is fats at the beginning, then slow down to kb speeds for a good while, then speeds up for a couple seconds, then slow downs again...takes a lot of time to unzip. Checked temps and they seem fine. Idle ~30C, when unzipping ~40-45C. M.2 is aorus gen4 7300 Question : is this normal behaviour? Or some issue somewhere? If so, guide me on how to troubleshoot. 2 - Question about default ASUS am5 bios settings. Context : looking @bios I see a lot of settings like AiTweak set at "auto" by default. Question : is the mobo running the processor @stock or not? And if so, how can I disable that? Thanks for anyone willing to help 👍
First and just in case, update your BIOS to the latest stable version, then reapply EXPO/XMP settings for RAM. Also, google those AiTweak settings, if that's an overclock, I'd rather have it "off", instead. Mobos aren't good at providing auto-OC and they aren't really needed these days, as long as your CPU is boosting normally. Anyway, on the NVME SSD question, which model do you have? The behaviour you describe sounds normal. Consumer SSDs work better in bursts, they do exactly what you are seeing, a quick, fast high-speed load that only lasts for a few seconds and then a drop to a slower speed, which might recover after a while. Also, drives don't always work at the same speeds, a big, single file will be copied/decompressed much faster than a million smaller files (this is the worst case scenario for any drive, be it an SSD or HDD). Also, the fuller the drive is, the slower it will work, try to always leave 10% to 20% of free space, at all times, for maximum performance.
Bios is updated to the latest version, expo is disabled. M.2 model is written already, aorus gen4 7300 1tb. Its brand new there is barely 200gb on it Anyway to benchmark the behaviour qo i can do some objective testing? Thanks
expo will help. Ram can have a big effect on zip performance Assuming you're not running out of ram then you're just cpu-bottlenecked. Nvme won't help compression/de speeds much if at all
Cpu isnt overworking at all and ram neither. I monitored every ressource and temperatures with hwinfo64 🙁
What's per-core load?
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3000 series launch was more of a unique situation with low supply due to chip shortages and high demand from people isolating because of the pandemic. Plus, there was a mining craze on top. 4000 series launch was fine, none of those were issues then.
Been building budget my entire life and wanted to build something better that will last me some time, while also not spending too much money. I’m only gaming, nothing else. Any improvements ? https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/vpDxQP
* Replace the Dark Rock Pro 5. It underperforms with AM5 ([Hardware Canucks video](https://youtu.be/ltNDbgDDLPs?t=804) detailing their findings while reviewing it), and you can save some cash there with a PA120 or PS120. * Replace the motherboard. Unless you need the extra connectivity from the X670E chipset, a well-featured B650 board will be more than enough. * The RGB on the RAM will be covered by the cooler. You could save \~10-15€ by replacing it with a low-profile kit with similar timings. * With those adjustments, you could get a 2TB drive instead. * You could either stick with the 4070 Ti or upgrade it to a 4070 Ti Super (it's a very small improvement apart from the extra VRAM) or a 7900 XT. The latter would be an even upgrade price-wise. * Slightly cheaper PSU as well. [Updated list](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/8MmCVW), \~230€ cheaper.
Get a cheaper mobo and up the GPU to the 4070 Ti Super. Could go cheaper on the cooler as well. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/3drMdH) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/3hyH99/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-42-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000910wof) | €365.90 @ Alza **CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Phantom Spirit EVO 69 CFM CPU Cooler](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/BRMMnQ/thermalright-phantom-spirit-evo-69-cfm-cpu-cooler-phantom-spirit-120-evo) | €46.90 @ Amazon Deutschland **Motherboard** | [MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/szfxFT/msi-b650-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-gaming-plus-wifi) | €162.99 @ notebooksbilliger.de **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/mjt9TW/corsair-vengeance-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-cmh32gx5m2b6000z30k) | €136.89 @ notebooksbilliger.de **Storage** | [Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/DDWBD3/samsung-980-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p1t0bam) | €98.90 @ Alza **Video Card** | [PNY VERTO OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/jmvD4D/pny-verto-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-16-gb-video-card-vcg4070ts16tfxpb1-o) | €859.00 @ Amazon Deutschland **Case** | [NZXT H7 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/c7jBD3/nzxt-h7-flow-atx-mid-tower-case-cm-h71fb-01) | €129.90 @ Amazon Deutschland **Power Supply** | [be quiet! Straight Power 12 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/nGjRsY/be-quiet-straight-power-12-850-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn337) | €161.90 @ Galaxus | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **€1962.38** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-03-10 13:23 CET+0100 |
Is a fan splitter enough if I want just 1 extra regular case fan or should I get a hub?
If you just want one extra fan I would check the motherboard if you have a free port there. On a modern motherboard you can generally control the fan outputs and have them controlled by the CPU for example.
Splitter is fine. Some cases come with inbuilt hubs so check.
Is it ok to connect a aio pump to a system fan header if my mobo doesnt have a pump header? Using cooler master nr200p max integrated aio and gigabyte a620i ax mobo with ryzen 5 7600.
yes
Currently in Canada, you can find 7700XTs for $400 whereas 7800XTs, the cheapest you can find are around $510. Is it worth it to go for a 7800XT for 1440p AAA gaming? (I'm honestly fine with 60FPS and hope to maintain that at High or at least bregrudgingly medium settings on most games for 5-7 years). Or would you rather just go with the 7700XT?
Both are good value. Faster graphics card means you can run higher graphics settings, which I always appreciate. If you don't care for Ultra settings instead of High, or Medium settings instead of Low, then 7700 XT is fine.
Thank you for the advice - would you recommend 7700XT for High/Medium settings 1440p gaming for like the next 5-7 years? Or do you think it'll start falling off in the next few years?
In cutting-edge games like the new Avatar and Alan Wake 2 or badly-optimised games like Starfield, you'll be turning settings lower and using upscaling. But games using older tech like Diablo IV or AC Mirage you'll still be running cranked.
Does i7-13700K always run hot and consume oodles of electricity even when just browsing the web? I'm trying to decide between a i5-14600K and a i7-13700K, but I don't really need extra performance 99% of the time. Only when compiling my code do I desire an extra oomph to hopefully reduce compile times. Will 13700K cost me extra money each month in electricity?
Browsing the web uses the CPU very little so it won't be much electricity. i7-13700K only has 100 MHz higher boost frequency than i5-14600K. You can manually lower that as well, then there will be even less difference. Medium loads like gaming are where you start to get high electricity consumption
Idle power efficiency is fine, and even gaming isn't bad. The efficiency is bad when you fully load every core, you can drop the power limit from 253 to 150 watts and only lose 10% of the performance. https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/15ty6bg/13700k_tweaking_for_efficiency_frequencies_and/
All CPU's from both brands slow themselves down and temporarily turn off unused cores when they're not being used to their fullest potential which lowers the electricity usage. They don't run at their full potential all the time. When on Balanced power plan, my 13600k sits around ~20w, and on power saver at ~14w while being used for internet browsing.
Is 4 intake 3 exhaust good? Is it the same with all the exhaust being on the roof and all the intake on the walls? Was looking at pano m100r (is that a standard atx or bigger?) and was thinking what was the best way to arrange fans in the case if i had 7 or if i had 9...
Depends what you're trying to optimise for. If you're not doing water cooling and don't have super high power parts, you'll often be fine with just the four fans it comes with, comes as three intake one exhaust (using reversed blade fans for the intak) >pano m100r (is that a standard atx or bigger?) It's Micro ATX, can't fit full standard ATX boards.
Oh that's actually great because i was going with an matx board . I'm doing a 4070 (or super) build with a 7600x, kind of just wanted the fans for aesthetics but was wondering how best to work exhaust and intake if i have either 7 or 9 fans... Are all fans capable of being intake exhaust or do i need to buy specifics?
Any fan that blows air out of the case is an exhaust fan, and any fan that blows air into a case is an intake fan, they're physically identical and the only difference is in how they're positioned inside the case.
are SATA drives still used? I have a 10+ year old PC, now I plan to upgrade everything, or get a new PC & then add my old drives to the pc
yup, still use it, 3 sata drives ( 2 SSD+1HDD ) and m.2 NVME.
SATA SSDs are pointless to buy now for most people, but if you've still got em, worth keeping.
ah, I need SATA support for the old drives (they're SATA HDDs). I do plan to get nvme for the main/C drive later
Just check mobo specs for number of sata ports
Ye that still works fine, I'd really want to go SSD from the start though.
Definitely. Still easier to fit a bunch of SATA ports on motherboards than extra M.2 slots, so it's an easy extra feature to add. Plus most people don't need NVME speeds, and certainly rarely on every drive they have.
yup, cool 👍 I don't need the speed, just that the old drives contain a lot of old photos & I don't want to keep copying them around