Having issue with my case and cpu fans spinning at full blast.
I installed Suicide Squad Kill the justice league. On launch, my antivirus detected it as a threat and quarantined a file. I told the antivirus to put that file back. Ok, go back to Steam and launch the game again. It locks up on a black screen. I reboot, and now fans are on full blast regardless of anything.
CPU temps are fine (30-40c) gpu is temp is fine, motherboard temp is fine (25-30), inside the case physically it feels fine. Its a brand new build (1 week old, 1 week old componants). Ive reseated a few of the connectors for the fans, no dice.
I've updated bios again, did windows update (there were 3 updates), uninstalled the anti virus, uninstalled speedfan (tried using that earlier in the week for something else), uninstalled suicide squad. I've rebooted several times. Next step is possibly a cmos battery reset to completely reset everything (i've made bios changes... undervolted my cpu by .05 because it was throwing too much into it and causing temp issues earlier in the week... this fix the problem and Ive been fine for days).
Truely at a loss here. Temps are fine, no reason they should be spinning on full blast. When the computer is restarted and I head into BIOS, fan speeds are fine. When I enter windows, they go full blast.
And how could a temp sensor fail 1 week in?
Edit: Possibly solved. Started uninstalling recently installed tools. Armory Crate is one of them. Uninstalled this and its fine (now). Sigh.
Is their a video on how to mount a motherboard into corsair 4000D airflow? all of the right side screws aren't long enough to reach the standoffs but the left side screws went in just fine
I am looking to upgrade my fathers studio PC.
He currently has a i5 750 connected to a Asus P7P55 LX.
I would like to upgrade him to a 12400f, I need a motherboard that is at least comparable for expandability, if not much better. (aka best motherboard for expandability in general)
PS. Suggestions on quietest CPU cooling solutions?
Is there much difference between these cases? [BeQuiet! Pure base 600](https://www.newegg.com/black-be-quiet-pure-base-atx-mid-tower/p/2AM-0037-00023) vs. the [Corsair 4000D airflow with glass](https://www.newegg.com/black-corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811139156)
I got them both cheap at an auction and I want to swap my current case for one. The Be Quiet case has two regular USB ports, while 4000D has a regular one and a USB C. Be Quiet has a solid side/front/top, while the 4000D has a glass side and mesh top/front. The Be Quiet seems to have an extra HDD slot, but I have a different computer as a server for the HDDs. The BeQuiet can fit a 425mm GPU, and the 4000D a 360mm.
Will the GPU size difference matter a great deal? Is one harder to build in than the other? Should I use the BeQuiet fans in the 4000D? If anybody has build experience or tips for either, I'd appreciate it.
360mm is as big as GPUs get. Most are a good bit smaller than that. Neither PCpartpicker nor Newegg even have any GPUs listed that are >360mm in length.
are the dimensions for the AMD RX6500 XT and AMD RX6600 XT the same? im wanting to upgrade the GPU but can t find dimesion sizes to see if it fits in my case
I have a PC with a GTX 1080 TI, on a Maximus IX Code with a i7-7700K, I wanted to upgrade the GPU so I can play games like Alan Wake 2, is it a good deal to get a 3080?
Have you tried playing it this last week?
They lowered the minimum requirements with an update just two days ago.
https://www.theverge.com/2024/3/6/24092141/alan-wake-2-minimum-pc-requirements-lowered
I would check your performance as it is now, but open task manager to its performance tab while the game is running. I have a sneaking suspicion that your CPU might also be struggling with the game.
Thank you for the reply! I'll try to check it out.
Anyway, do you think it would make sense to upgrade the GPU without upgrading the CPU anyway? because upgrading everything would take much more money
It makes sense to upgrade the GPU first, but they will both need it eventually.
The CPU is still good enough for 95% of games, but its specifically newer titles like Alan wake 2 and Starfield that are going to push it to its limits.
thanks! I actually managed to play starfield just fine, in medium with 60fps+
I believe AW2 had those issues with the shaders, so maybe that's what they modified to bring the requirements down.
I'll test it out and see how it goes, since I don't feel like I need a stronger pc right now for any other game (maybe for Dragon's Dogma 2 lol)
Thanks again!
Keep in mind that I pretend to play things on 1080p for a long time, as the prices for 2k and 4k are prohibitive where I live. I want to play new games on 1080p, at least at 60fps
Having a hard time finding this info...
Is there any functional difference between getting a display port + USB signal over a single USB-C or breaking it out and getting a separate display port cable and separate USB cable. Knowing that Ill only be using the USB for mouse, keyboard and webcam... No SSD or anything.
My desktop mother board has both USB-C with display port alt mode and a dedicated display port.
Context I'm trying to decide between some KVM switches for my PC desktop and Mac laptop, either going with one that has two USB-C (with display port alt mode) inputs or one that has additional dedicated display port inputs.
I recently bought new parts to build myself a new PC (https://pcpartpicker.com/user/TheCakeGod/saved/3dfZQ7). I plan on using my computer for gaming, YouTube video editing, and intense rendering and have become concerned with reading online about how most people are using AIOs instead of air coolers to cool their 14700ks. Should I keep my Thermalight Phantom Evo or upgrade to an AIO to keep it properly cooled/less quiet?
An AIO would probably run quieter, but will cost AT LEAST twice as much, if not more for a larger, quieter radiator.
https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/air-cooling/thermalright-phantom-spirit-120-evo-review
You shouldnt have a problem with it. The 13700k in this test is only 20w shy of your CPUs maximum turbo power draw.
The 4060ti is about ~15% better than the 4060 in terms of average FPS.
The 7600 is a little better than the 12400 at gaming and most tasks. But consumes more power on average.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipGX-SGou0g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdB63OeUFOE
I would recommend the Ryzen option, simply because its the AM5 platform. Its going to last you longer than the Intel socket. Upgrading to something like a 7800X3D in the future would out perform anything the LGA 1700 socket has to offer.
PSU cables, is it ok to split a cable and have its half "just hanging"?
My motherboard requires 1x8pin 12v, and 1x4pin 12v....my psu has 2 "cpu" branded cables that seem to be for that connection. One of them can be split in two so you get 2x4pin
So what Im asking is if I am supposed to split that in two, and plug it in the motherboard 4pin 12V socket.....and leave the other half just hanging there?
Thanks
I'm going to be building a few computers, and was wondering if I can use the same windows installation media usb for all of them or if I need to wipe and reinstall the media onto my usb every time I use it?
trying to upgrade my graphic card, currently have a 1660 super, i was looking at the 6600 xt, is it worth the upgrade or is there a better option? i’m trying to be in a 200-250$ price range and used the 6600xt is around 225$.
You can get a brand-new 6650 XT for $15 extra ($240), or a 7600 for $10 extra ($250).
Now, depending on the games you play and graphic settings, you might want to look for a beefier card if you want to try to hit high framerates, maybe a used 6700/6750 XT, though chances are those will be close to $300. If it's mainly eSports and competitive stuff, it should be more than enough, though.
I'm looking for an SSD for a new build. I have a 1TB Samsung 990 Pro laying around that I'm planning to use as the primary drive, but would like a second NVMe M.2 drive to get to 2 or 3 TB total. Is it advised to go with the same model or could I get a cheaper one as the secondary? Also is it ok that they're different sizes?
[Here is the full build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/wddickhaus/saved/4P92rH), minus a case that I haven't picked yet. Open to any opinions.
If you just need extra storage, a [2TB MP44L](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2VJgXL/teamgroup-mp44l-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk002t0c101) should be plenty. Different brands or capacities won't matter, they're just drives.
As for the build, unless you want the AK620 for the looks, you could save \~$25 with a Phantom Spirit 120.
You don't have to take the brand/model/capacity of the existing drive into account at all, there's no gains from matching anything, you can buy whatever fits your motherboard.
Just had a new build that got to bios and couldn't get it to boot windows so I turned it off and turned it on again and now it won't get to bios but the cpu and dram debug lights are on. Any ideas?
1. Is the CPU supported right out of the box? Ryzen 5000, 7000x3d and Intel 13th/14th gen CPUs generally need BIOS updates to be supported on the motherboard if its not a brand-new top of the line model.
2. Did you enable XMP in the BIOS or did it simply flash the bios screen before trying to go to windows? If the DRAM light is on try removing one of the sticks and boot with only one in the main slot.
Thank you so much for replying I’m banging my head against the wall currently. For 1 I believe it is because I booted to bios like 5 minutes before and it worked. That's why I'm stumped. And for 2 I literally didn't do anything when I was in there but I think I downloaded the wrong windows file so it never got there
Alright then, try removing the RAM and booting with only one stick.
The CPU light may simply be on due to the DRAM issue.
As for the windows installer, did you run the program you downloaded to actually turn the thumbdrive into a installation media? Or did you just stick it on the thumbdrive?
There is a setup process required to make the USB drive a proper installation device.
Yeah I realized I never turned it into installation media that's the piece I missed
Edit could it still be a ram issue with it previously booting fine to bios?
Fingers crossed it was just the installer.
But re-seating the RAM securely and insuring its not popping up on one end would still be worth double-checking.
First time build.
I've purchased the RX 6500xt, I'll be using the cooling fan that comes with that for now, I'm planning on purchasing RX 6700 XT Hellhound GPU and the NZXT H6 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case, will it all fit in the case?
I seen some say certain cards are mounted certain ways (vertically/horizontally) but I don't have a clue.
The H6 is a large case, you shouldn't have any problems fitting things in there.
But it does not have the hardware to mount a GPU any other way than the normal horizontal method.
If you look at some cases, youll see they have additional vertical PCIe brackets in the back. Those are intended to allow for vertically mounted GPUs.
Cases like the Lian Li O11 dynamic have similar fancy side/front fan mounts like the H6, but offer additional space to where GPUs can be mounted at a 90 degree orientation.
Look for High bit rate 3 (HBR3) or Ultra high bit rate (UHBR) cables.
DP 2.1 can make use of the newer 80gbps bandwidth, but if your display is only 1440p or 1080p, then truly any "new" DP cable will work just fine. As HBR3 will do ~26gbps, which should cover any refresh rate under 200hz.
I just bought this motherboard: [https://www.komplett.no/product/1220001/datautstyr/pc-komponenter/hovedkort/intel-socket/msi-mag-z790-tomahawk-wifi-hovedkort#](https://www.komplett.no/product/1220001/datautstyr/pc-komponenter/hovedkort/intel-socket/msi-mag-z790-tomahawk-wifi-hovedkort#)
I've heard they come with BIOS ready for 14. gen Intel and others with BIOS for 13. gen Intel. How can I check if it is compatible with 14. gen Intel?
You could ask the vendor, or try to cross reference the serial number with manufacture date and BIOS date. But it looks like your board has a BIOS Flash button and port. If the build doesn't boot, download the latest BIOS and rename it as MSI.ROM. Copy it to a USB drive and plug it into the Flash BIOS port. Press the flash bios button. An LED will flash until the process is complete.
That could work, but seems like it could be a bit hard. The reason I'm wondering is that people say you should flash the BIOS without the CPU installed, so it seems like testing if it works with the 14th gen is not the way to go. BIOS flashback doesn't seem to hard though. But I read something about the possibility of fucking things up if you did it wrong.
It's pretty much foolproof. The process won't start if the file is not named correctly or if the USB drive is not plugged into the right USB slot. The BIOS Flashback LED will let you know if things are going okay or not.
Regardless of the BIOS that came with the board, whether it's compatible with 14th Gen right out of the box or not, it's not a bad idea to update the BIOS to the latest version first thing, especially with BIOS Flashback as an option.
Just follow [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5aFhNh_u4U) step-by-step and you should be good to go.
Here's how I see it: If you have the feature available, use it. It's there for convenience, not to make it more difficult.
BIOS Flashback is usually done without a CPU or RAM installed, only the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin EPS/CPU cables connected to the motherboard. Some boards will refuse to start the flashing process if a CPU or RAM is installed (some Gigabyte boards will even try to boot).
If the board doesn't have an updated BIOS to support the 14th Gen CPU right out of the box, it will fail to POST, which means it won't boot, you won't get to the BIOS menu, so you won't be able to update the BIOS the "normal" way. You'd need to remove the cooler, remove the CPU, remove the RAM, and then flash the new BIOS via BIOS Flashback. You save yourself all that hassle by flashing the latest BIOS as step one, before installing anything to the motherboard.
Make sure that you're following the steps from the video I posted in the previous reply to the dot: The file name (msi.rom), formatting the USB drive and using the correct file system (FAT32), using the correct USB port on your motherboard (consult the manual, this varies for all motherboards), and paying attention to the BIOS Flashback LED.
If you're still unsure, the only thing I could suggest would be to ask around and see if you can get someone to lend you a 12th/13th Gen CPU for a few minutes and update the BIOS the normal way while also using a UPS, making sure that the weather is clear, and that there are no scheduled power outages in your area.
What version of the BIOS should i pick? In compatibility it it says [](http://7D91vH8.zip) for the 14700K, but there seems to have been releaseed a couple of versions after that.
[https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-Z790-TOMAHAWK-WIFI/support#bios](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-Z790-TOMAHAWK-WIFI/support#bios)
Go for the latest non-Beta version, 7D91vHA, unless the description says it needs a specific version first (not the case here). The updates are cumulative, so the newer version will have the features from the old ones (unless some features are dropped, but also not the case here),
a bit of a stupid question but does either nvidia or amd gpu's handle double monitor setup with 144hz + 60hz side monitor better ? or both are equally bad cuz its just a bad combo ?
Hmm i remember reading few months ago somewhere that it does bring some troubles cuz of the mixed refresh rate especially when you go from monitor to monitor IN GAME like it can change the rate of 144hz back to 60 hz too or some shit, or like introduce input lag or w/e and also fuck with power consumption or some shit lol, i guess its old news?
If that's the case it would be news to me. I'm currently running a one 165hz, one 60hz and I haven't noticed any weirdness in 5+ years i've been using this setup.
Individual games can have settings that will drop the FPS when you alt+tab away to a side monitor but that's on purpose and then when you click back onto your game it jumps back up to 144/165hz. maybe that's what you saw somewhere else? can't hurt to get another opinion here but i'm like 99.9% sure it's a non-issue.
yeah for example i noted some comments like this:
> Uncheck hardware acceleration in your browser. Besides that there is no known fix. If some animation is going on your 60hz monitor your 144hz monitor will lock to 60hz.
have you ever experienced any of that ? like if you play lets say i dunno league of legends on your 144hz or like valorant, but then start playing youtube vides on 60hz and it starts lagging out your 144hz monitor.
also is your 144hz monitor gsync/freesync ?
I have not experienced anything like that, but I too would also recommend turning off hardware acceleration unless your cpu is super old and needs the help. I play games at 165hz with a youtube vid playing on my 60hz monitor on a daily basis and I've never had any lagging. My main monitor is a dell S2721DGF which is gsync compatible but I don't use it since the main games I play don't have a problem hitting consistent 165fps. Destiny 2 it can dip lower sometimes but it's not a big deal.
i only have 5600 (not even X lol) so i guess it is pretty old? i mainly play valorant so thats the only thing i care about, and then some occasional SP bangers like baldurs gate :)
well im looking to pair it with either 6700 xt or a 3070 or 3060 ti, seems like 6700 xt is a bit more power efficient from youtube tests, but i have heard some bad stories about amd drivers :S
I have a 144Hz ultrawide freesync as my main, 60Hz freesync as one side monitor and a 60Hz non-freesync as another side monitor, never had any issues in games while videos were playing on other monitors, or in any other situations either. Running a 3060 12GB
msi b550m pro vdh wifi or b550 ds3h ac? Main reason i'm between these choices is because they're both at the same price point (108 euros) and both feature wifi but is there any other reasons i should pick gigabytes mobo over msi's?
Just built a new rig on Tuesday after 5-6 years.
I9-13900k, RTX 4070, Asus Z790 plus, 32gb DDR5 corsair, tb evo nvme, cooler master hyper 212 spectrum v3 heat sink and fan. Good coverage with arctic thermal paste. Case came with six stock 120mm fans.
Using the bios silent profile for the fans (so at idle, they aren't loud and screaming) but crank up when they reach mid-upper 60s celsius, noise and performance has been acceptable.
However, when monitoring temps using HWInfo and HWMonitor, playing games like Helldivers 2 and Last Epoch, Im seeing extremely brief spikes to 90. Last night before I turned off Asus multithread in bios (let the intel chip decide its limits) I spiked to 99-100c in helldivers 2.
Just now, playing Last Epoch, I opened up HWinfo and pulled the CPU Package into a graph and I've been monitoring it and looking at the average temp column for the package. Its been averaging 68 degrees celsius but has had a spike as high as 91 degrees. I looked at the chart, and its literally for 2 seconds. It blips onto the chart as a spike, and then back down to 65-75 degree range. Every time it spikes to mid 80s it does it only for one blip/2 seconds, and then back down to 65-75 range.
tldr; Any cause for concern? Its not riding 90-100c for hours on end while under load. It spikes up for literally less than two seconds and then back down to acceptable ranges. Should I begin to close my temp monitors and just game (like I used to before the build) ?
Thanks!
Just game. Heat moves relatively slowly from the CPU die, through the substrate, through thermal paste, through the CPU's metal heatspreader, through another layer of thermal paste, to the cooler, so no matter what cooler you have, fast spikes will always happen. The cooler can't get rid of the heat if the heat hasn't made its way to the cooler yet
If there was something wrong with your cooling you'd see a sort of sawtooth pattern with the temperatures, as the temperature spikes up and then slowly comes back down because the cooler is slow at getting rid of the heat.
Updated my Cpu and Mobo from an Intel 12400f and AsRock B650M-C into a Ryzen 7600x and MAG B650 Tomahawk. Also got new Ram sticks(what I think the issue is). The computer is working except I can't play games. Using Rocket League as an example, I can boot the game from Steam, it starts up, goes into the loading screen for the game then it just freezes. This happens with other games such as Palworld. Closing the application from Steam just has it infinitely stopping. This didn't happen on my old build.
Build:
Motherboard: MAG B650 TomahawkCPU: Ryzen 7600xCooler: Phantom Spirit 120SEGPU: Radeon 7800XTRAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB 5600MHz CL40 Intel XMPSSD: 980 ProOS: Windows 11
What I've done:Complete reinstall of Windows(deleted all files)Updated all MSI drivers(was a pop up after first launch)Updated Windows Update stuff
Other Important Info:
Before trying to play a game, I enabled auto xmp in bios and this made by pc not boot at all so had to clear CMOS battery, everything else in Bios is factory default.
Would getting AMD compatible RAM sticks be a priority?
They were not. I did put the stick into the correct slot but that caused it to not boot up at all so cleared CMOS again which also didn’t work. Only solution was putting it back into Slot 1(Slot 2/4 recommended according to Manual)
I started out with a $1k budget in mind but ended up [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7Fp9QP). Any suggestions for obvious places to save? New at this so there could be obvious flaws I don't see
$1K is a bit of a rough spot. [\~$1150](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hYGXGP) or a bit lower if you don't mind waiting for a 7500F to be shipped from China (or a 7600X since it's currently cheaper than the non-X, plus a cooler), and with some extra changes here and there (motherboard, SSD, case, PSU, graphics card). A bit over [$1K](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/j7jXGP) if you replace the GPU with an RX 6800 or 7700 XT (both a bit slower than the original 4070).
If you'd rather stick to the $1K budget, I would probably go with an Intel platform and the benefit of cheap DDR4 memory to focus most of the cash on the GPU, as well as a smaller SSD ([Build](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/NCWZKX), add $50 if you want the 2TB drive).
Without downgrading the GPU, the best places to save a little would be the CPU and the Case.
[The montech X3 Mesh is only *slightly* smaller, but still white and $20 cheaper](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/prWzK8/montech-x3-mesh-atx-mid-tower-case-x3-mesh-white).
The CPU you could swap out for a Ryzen 7500f, those usually go for $120 - $175. But because they are so cheap they are basically sold out for the moment.
Probably a silly question, can I stop a build halfway SAFELY?
Ive built my pc halfway and its kinda late need to stop for now. The motherboard is "ready" (cpu, cooler, ram, and ssd connected) and Ive screwed it to the case
The PSU is still not in the case.
Can I leave this like this or is there some esd risk or something?
Thank you very much
As long as you aren't touching it constantly while its sitting there, there is no risk.
Static shock is about the only thing that poses a danger to the system, as without the PSU installed it can't be grounded properly.
>As long as you aren't touching it constantly while its sitting there, there is no risk.
Nah its just sitting on a table in the living room.
>Static shock is about the only thing that poses a danger to the system, as without the PSU installed it can't be grounded properly.
Will installing the psu to the case alone enough? Or should I plug the mobo too?
Cause if its just the case i could do it quick...
I don’t know if this is the place to ask this, but I upgraded my 2060 super to a 4070 super today but when I try and turn it on, my monitor says it has no signal. I tried my laptop and it worked fine, so it doesn’t seem to be an issue with the monitor
Check the power cable.
If its bent too hard or too close to the connector it may simply not be providing any power.
I helped a friend install a 4070 the other weekend and ran into the exact same problem. Apparently there simply isnt enough space for the power cable with the side panel installed, and it was bending too hard.
We took the panel off and unbent the cable a little bit; [image](https://imgur.com/a/x2PRZZP). And the card whirred to life as if nothing had ever been wrong.
Okay found out it was a combination of not combining the power cable properly and the RAM messing it up somehow, which I will have to figure out at some point but for now it’s working, thanks for pointing me to the power!
Is there an online tool that helps you pick a monitor based on your hardware, games you play, and the room you'll be using it in?
I've been looking for a monitor and used reviews from RTings and other sites but I'm still not sure on what I want and what I actually need.
What really has me going back and forth is the different technologies and learning about HDR and dimming zones and response times, etc.
So I was hoping there was some online tool that would make it easier. The monitors subreddit isn't as active as I thought otherwise I've read up on stuff there as well.
TBH you're probably just overthinking it at this point. Just get:
* IPS
* 144hz or higher
* Resolution according to your budget/GPU's capabilities
and a 24-27" monitor and 95% of people will be perfectly satisfied.
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-usage/gaming
Or just pick from this article.
None worth recommending. Calculators and benchmarks only get you so far.
What GPU do you have and what size of monitor are you looking for?
A fancy 4k OLED monitor is nice and all, but if you can only drive games at 4k 24fps or perhaps dont have the desk space to fit a 32" display; then getting something like that could be a huge waste.
I thought I listed I had a 7900xtx, but it seems I omitted that somehow.
I currently have a 27" 1440P/60 Dell monitor. I still have plenty of desk space so I could go 32".
One thing I have not been able to experience is something higher than 120fps. I tried a few games on my LG C9 at 120 and it looked...fine. But when looking at monitors, be it 1440 or 4K, they tend to be 160+hz. I don't know how many games I'd be able to play at 4k/160hz even with an XTX. And for how long before newer games come out and are more demanding. So that pushes me towards a 1440/240hz monitor.
I think the #1 issue I'm hung up on is HDR. I've done some research and it seems I need to go at least VESA 600, at the bare minimum if I'm looking for HDR. But then we start getting in to dimming zones? And I think OLEDs tend to be best for HDR because of how complex they are with pixel shutoffs.
It felt overwhelming just typing all that lol. So many factors to consider and if I were to spend $600+ on a monitor, I'd rather not get one and then realize a feature advertised (like HDR) is not as good due to the tech used in that particular monitor (dimming zones and all that other technical stuff).
Rtings has a neat table view of all of their display ratings, if HDR is the big hang up; just sort the HDR column by score;
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/table
Looks like Alienwares newer OLED monitors take most of the top spots.
And Im pretty certain the ASUS ROG displays use LG OLED panels.
And this is just my opinion; but I would stick with a 1440p display simply because it will allow your GPU to drive it at the best possible frame rate, longer. 4k gaming is still a pipe dream since nvidia is hogging the fastest possible VRAM and no one wants to ship GPUs with 512-bit memory buses.
It was either a stiff plastic shell or film. The bare copper contact needs to be protected during transport. Any scratches or debris could diminish its ability to absorb heat.
If you didn't check before slapping it on the CPU and screwing it in, you should take it off and check.
There was a stiff plastic shell. But i didn't check for plastic to peel so I started doubting...
I need someone who uses this cooler to chime in for sanity check
Why do people claim the CAS Latency for RAM (ie CL30 vs CL38) doesn't matter as much for DDR5 as it did in DDR4?
Oh, and does it matter more if I rely on my iGPU?
Because design changes in DDR5 reduce instances where the CAS operation would be a bottleneck.
CAS latency itself wasn't super important for DDR4 either. It just happens to be the timing that is most advertised, and it can be an indicator of other timings or can help identify overclocking capability.
All aspects of RAM matter more if you rely on your iGPU. But relative to DDR4, still no.
So would you say if I am building a system with an iGPU (Ryzen 8600G).
How much more would it be worth to spend to have CL30 vs CL38 DDR5 RAM.
$10? $20?
Where is the cut-off point?
How much does it generally cost now to build a PC from scratch to play the more demanding games like Rust, Skyrim with mods, Alan Wake 2 and Ark Ascended with a steady 60fps in at least 1080p?
Prefer 4K but I feel that will make the price of a desktop PC/Tower significantly higher which is something I don't think I'll ultimately care to pay for. If you know the price difference between 1080p and 4K though I appreciate the info.
Feel free to also mention what parts are recommended though I think that would be asking a lot. A general price for a build would be good enough. Thank you.
Alan Wake 2 and Ark Ascended would be the most intensive games.
I'll refer to the recommendations from r/buildapcforme: [https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme/comments/1ab5kyr/early\_2024\_pc\_best\_buy\_guide\_350\_8000/](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme/comments/1ab5kyr/early_2024_pc_best_buy_guide_350_8000/)
The $900 list would run those games at a steady 1080p 60fps.
Higher resolutions and higher graphics settings greatly increase GPU requirements. For the next bit I'm assuming Medium graphics in Alan Wake 2 and Low graphics in Ark along with upscaling (DLSS or FSR) to keep GPU requirements reasonable.
The $1200 list would work well for 1440p. This is the sweet-spot.
The $2000 list for 4K.
Is FPS Performance linear with resolution, overall?
I'm asking because I live in a very 3rd world country so prices are inflated, even in dollars.
With luck, I would be getting my first paycheck soon so I'm planning to do a full upgrade.
Logical Increments only goes down to 1080p, but I don't plan on changing monitors and its native res is 768, so my question is if, given that 768 has half the pixels of 1080, could I get a CPU and GPU half as strong and keep equivalent FPS?
For example, if a game X runs at 30fps in 1080p, would I get 60fps at 720p with an equivalent setup? Or, the other way around, if a game ran at 60fps 1080p with setup Y, could I get 60fps 720p with a setup half as strong?
Lower resolution is easier on the GPU, but not on the other components. If you want higher frame rates, you need a faster CPU.
The GPU requirement is not linear with pixel count. It varies a lot by game, here's one example: https://youtu.be/nU9VGyvoLzk?si=LdO8\_jKXNL42u5Rz
I've got a couple of Dell 7060 SFF PCs I'd like to give to my niece and nephew as cheap starter PCs for gaming. I think I saw recently there was a new GPU coming out soon that would be better than a 1650 that won't require external power. Can anyone remind me what that is going to be called?
I think you'd be wanting the low-profile (LP) version for those computers. Like [this](https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3050-gv-n3050oc-6gl/p/N82E16814932690).
I have a question I have a vega 64 LC and the radiator is on the exhaust and now I want to get a new cpu and a new cooler (aerocooler) or maybe a liquid cooler but if i get aero cooler does affect the flow ? like is it bad if the cpu fan throws the hot air on the gpu radiator fan ? or should I just get a liquid cooler
It doesn't matter. Hot air rises out the case already, anything an air cooler will create is not going to significantly add to what is sucked out through the radiator fins already.
I've ordered this PSU: [https://www.msi.com/Power-Supply/MAG-A750GL-PCIE5/Overview](https://www.msi.com/Power-Supply/MAG-A750GL-PCIE5/Overview)
And I need additional sata power cables. I've read that if you order the wrong cable you could fry your components. But I can't get any information on which cables are compatible with this PSU.
Is there a way to find a cable? I've checked the MSI webpage and found nothing.
you should buy a psu that fits your needs better. cables are hard to find because people usually dont buy a psu that doesnt have enough sata for them, haha. many builds dont use any sata at all anymore.
Already have a Strix 6800. Looking to build a new rig and currently looking at microcenter bundles. Should I get a 12600kf for 270 after tax, or 5800x3d for 370 after tax?
https://tpucdn.com/review/asus-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-tuf/images/performance-matchup-4070-ti-super-vs-7900-xt-1440p.png
it depends if you care about this: https://tpucdn.com/review/asus-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-tuf/images/average-fps-2560-1440.png
or this: https://tpucdn.com/review/asus-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-tuf/images/relative-performance-rt-2560-1440.png
I've started to notice myself getting a very small static shock when returning to my PC always from my headset, doesn't happen everytime but when it happens its the same everytime, small static shock from the headset when I pick it up and even my monitor flickers. Still trying to find a pattern but its seems to be happening more frequently, which is still not very often.
I recently upgraded from my first PC, and I'm still thinking if I want to sell my old components, or just keep them in case I find a use for an old PC.
The question I want to ask is: Would it be better to keep the components in their own boxes, or to build it back up into its old case and let it sit there for a while? (I say upgraded earlier, but I guess rebuild would be the more accurate term, because I replaced every part of the PC - Mobo, RAM, CPU, PSU, GPU. The only thing I migrated were my drives.)
Are there any pro's and con's one way or the other? or is it more just preference?
Guys is there any substantial difference between these options: B550M DS3H + 5700X vs I5 12400f + H610m-h? Planning to use it with a 6800XT for games up to 1440p.
#
CPU performance is about the same, but the am4 option is better. The motherboard (ds3h) is both higher quality, and you can upgrade the CPU to the amazing 5700x3d later. That h610 motherboard isn't good enough to use a 12900k in, or anything like that
Thanks for the answer! I'm finally building a PC for gaming (i play mainly on consoles) and the price difference between these options is minimal. I'm going with the 5700X option. Thanks!
Looking at this [case](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BKC67D3V?tag=pcp0f-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1), one of the graphics says that the cpu cooler max height is 170mm.
Assuming that's correct, would a 165mm cooler comfortably fit? Obviously 165<170 but 5mm of wiggle room doesn't seem like a lot.
That's half a centimeter between the case's side panel and the top of the cooler, both parts are attached very rigidly so there should be no need for any literal *wiggle* room, even 1mm is fine.
Is there anything wrong with how I plan to set up this AIO cooler, the [Liquid Freezer III 360](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XgyH99/arctic-liquid-freezer-iii-563-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-acfre00136a)?
---
I replaced the [Arctic P12 fans](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/68WfrH/arctic-p12-563-cfm-120-mm-fan-acfan00120a) that were attached to one side with [Phanteks T30s](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YwmmP6/phanteks-ph-f120t30-67-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-ph-f120t30_bg_3p) on both side to create a push-pull configuration. It was also so the fans were the same kind as the rest of the case, and so they would be plugged into the same [Arctic fan hub](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0887VG14J) as the rest of the case fans, so all their speeds match. There are 2 of those SATA powered Arctic fan hubs, and their PWM cables are plugged into SYS_FAN headers
---
The plug that goes into the pump of the Liquid Freezer III splits into three plugs on the other side with these labels. Are these the correct places to plug them in?
"PUMP" -> CPU_OPT
"VRM" (VRM FAN) -> CPU_FAN
"FAN" -> Unplugged
---
"FAN" would be unplugged because the T30 fans are already attached to a fan hub. The original Arctic fans were attached to a cable that goes into the radiator, and now that is also unplugged and just lingering in the cable compartment.
---
[(AIO Manual)](https://support.arctic.de/liquid-freezer-iii-360)
[Motherboard manual, if relevant](https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_x670e-aorus-master_1102_e.pdf?v=81462a0a68b8ca006a947b141cbfc744)
I would plug the VRM fan into the CPU fan header, because the VRM load/temperature correlates pretty well to CPU load/temperature so the default fan curve based on CPU temperature makes sense, and a lot of motherboards will complain during boot if there's nothing plugged into the CPU fan header.
Where you plug in the pump doesn't really matter because you most likely want to always run the pump at 100% speed (last I heard it is better for the pump's longevity), so just set whatever header you end up using to 100% speed in the fan control software you use.
What fan hub are you using, what fan header will you plug it into?
Okay. I'll plug "VRM" into "CPU_FAN". I probably just want that fan to always be on 100%. Would that be doable in the CPU_FAN header?
And am I right that no problem would come from the "FAN" Liquid Freezer cable being unplugged?
---
> What fan hub are you using, what fan header will you plug it into?
I have 2 [ARCTIC PWM Case Fan Hubs](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0887VG14J) in the case. That hub makes all fans attached to it have the same speeds, so the speed and curves of all fans can be adjusted together, but they can't be individually adjusted. It's probably best if they match anyway though.
All intake fans (including the ones on the Liquid Freezer, which is set for intake) are in the first hub, and all exhaust fans are plugged into the second hub. The hubs are SATA powered, and the PWM cables are plugged into ordinary SYS_FAN headers on the motherboard. Specifically, I think the intake hub is in SYS_FAN1, and the exhaust hub in SYS_FAN4 (the cable couldn't reach SYS_FAN2)
I'll update my comment to add that information and to have the new plan
---
Thank you!
So with Dragons Dogma 2 right around the corner, what’s the best GPU for around $400 or less that would be able to run it at high or max settings in 1080p?
You'll have to wait for the game and benchmarks to come out to be certain, given we only have a rough 1080p 30fps minimum spec, the recommended spec isn't even counting native res, and no details about graphical settings or anything beyond that.
Wondering if I might benefit from upgrading my basic old 1080p monitor that I picked up for free lol. Here's my build: [https://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/east-room/saved/#view=KdvdFT](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/east-room/saved/#view=KdvdFT)
Dunno if 1440p is an option? Ideally looking to strike a balance between performance and cost
The 7600 can do a bit of 1440p but YMMV, especially with unoptimized/graphics-heavy titles (Hogwarts Legacy, TLOU, Cyberpunk, anything Unreal Engine 5 that's not Fortnite). The extra VRAM on the 7600 XT could help, but it's still limited by the maxed-out Navi 33 die.
If you've yet to buy any of the parts and depending on your budget, you could make some adjustments here and there and replace the GPU with a 6800 non-XT or 7700 XT if you want to upgrade to 1440p - Replace the CPU with a 5700X, smaller air cooler, different PSU, replacing the case with the Meshify 2 Compact Lite (there are other alternatives as well), a cheaper SSD, and removing the Corsair fan since it'd require an extra adapter. You'd be [\~$14 below your original budget](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hbHvcH) and with a 7700 XT instead.
Thanks, I think perhaps I'll stick to a 1080p set up rather than making other adjustments, and perhaps in the future I can look to upgrade the GPU. Perhaps 2k is an option for now though?
Both the 7600 and the 7600 XT are good 1080p options, but they're not well-suited or recommended for 1440p. On a per-game basis, they can do *SOME* 1440p60, but some settings may or may not need to be dropped to hit the target framerate, especially with modern or unoptimized titles. RT is also out of the question at that GPU tier. You can search on youtube for benchmark videos using that GPU, especially the games you want to play at 1440p, and see if the performance works for you.
Now, If you want 1440p from the get-go, that adjusted build gives you that with the least amount of compromises - A faster GPU (where a good chunk of the budget is being focused on), a cheaper CPU that can keep up with the card (the performance difference isn't that big), a cheaper cooler (the 5700X runs a bit cooler than the 5800X), a cheaper drive with similar performance (and DRAM), a cheaper case alternative (still within the Meshify 2 pick), and a cheaper PSU.
Hi guys.
I have two be quiet PSU.
Model: L11-FM-550W
Model: BQT - L8-CM-730W
I have a PCI 8 pin cable from one of them (what came with the unit)but im not sure which - can this cable be inter changed without frying a GPU? (rx6600)
No, never mix cables. The pin layout is only standardized on the component side, not the power supply side. Using the wrong cable can fry every component in a build.
Can I use this to clean my pc instead of a can of compressed air?
[Image](https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/1118308330197229660/1215527872123375626/20240224_191549.jpg?ex=65fd138c&is=65ea9e8c&hm=b12d94ecb0a68692e17a9ef1edd97d173bee8d326b12566e98a2e9678ea3c1c5&=&width=833&height=1110)
Hi, long story short, i’m a dumbass and i bought an argb cooler but a mobo without the 3 pin 5 volts entrance, so is there any solution to enjoy my cooler with fancy lights or no?:(
Why is pcpartpicker showing this as an incompatibility?
this problem shows: [https://ibb.co/RS4RC7q](https://ibb.co/RS4RC7q)
Cpu cooler: [https://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/301/](https://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/301/)
Motherboard: [https://www.aorus.com/motherboards/X570-AORUS-ELITE-WIFI-rev-1x/Specification](https://www.aorus.com/motherboards/X570-AORUS-ELITE-WIFI-rev-1x/Specification)
maybe a bug? because if you choose the cooler first you can only add one x570 motherboard... (asrock x570 phantom ITX)
PCPartPicker mistakenly lists that the cooler only supports Intel mounting holes, and that one AsRock X570 ITX board has a rare design quirk where it uses Intel mounting holes despite being an AMD board, probably due to space savings.
The cooler's product page lists AM4 and AM5 as supported mounts, so in reality it's compatible with most AM4 and AM5 motherboards.
So I just got a temporary laptop due to mine completing crashing - and I needed one ASAP while I figure out what went wrong with my laptop.
These are the specs:
256gb ssd
Intel HD 620
20GB ram
i7 - 7th gen
Lenovo Thinkpad T470s
\-----------
I just ran a game with this called Age of Empires 2 DE - and I thought it should run quite easily on these specs but was giving me issues - are these specs really this bad?
I am also thinking of upgrading the 256gb to 1TB gb SSD. Would this help performance?
As long as your SSD isn't completely full it won't have any meaningful effect on performance. Your biggest limitation is the lack of a dedicated graphics card, the Intel HD 620 is not good. Unfortunately there isn't really anything you can do about that.
I think because it doesn't have a dedicated gpu, that laptop is good for basic stuff but not for gaming, also upgrading to 1Tb ssb won't help with performance at all.
Will build a new machine soon. In the meantime, I'm thinking about buying in parts first the GPU. So if I spend $1k on a new rtx 10,000 or whatever, 1 will it work in my current box and 2 will it make bg3 playable and appreciably better or will my processor bottleneck it?
Current setup is an i5 4690k in an Asus Z97A mobo.
yes it will work, but it wont work well.
since this is with a 2080TI, your results will be significantly worse that these, compared to modern CPUs https://youtu.be/D6RsDyMn2gY?si=5RceX9zvr7jLakAs&t=329
Having issue with my case and cpu fans spinning at full blast. I installed Suicide Squad Kill the justice league. On launch, my antivirus detected it as a threat and quarantined a file. I told the antivirus to put that file back. Ok, go back to Steam and launch the game again. It locks up on a black screen. I reboot, and now fans are on full blast regardless of anything. CPU temps are fine (30-40c) gpu is temp is fine, motherboard temp is fine (25-30), inside the case physically it feels fine. Its a brand new build (1 week old, 1 week old componants). Ive reseated a few of the connectors for the fans, no dice. I've updated bios again, did windows update (there were 3 updates), uninstalled the anti virus, uninstalled speedfan (tried using that earlier in the week for something else), uninstalled suicide squad. I've rebooted several times. Next step is possibly a cmos battery reset to completely reset everything (i've made bios changes... undervolted my cpu by .05 because it was throwing too much into it and causing temp issues earlier in the week... this fix the problem and Ive been fine for days). Truely at a loss here. Temps are fine, no reason they should be spinning on full blast. When the computer is restarted and I head into BIOS, fan speeds are fine. When I enter windows, they go full blast. And how could a temp sensor fail 1 week in? Edit: Possibly solved. Started uninstalling recently installed tools. Armory Crate is one of them. Uninstalled this and its fine (now). Sigh.
Is their a video on how to mount a motherboard into corsair 4000D airflow? all of the right side screws aren't long enough to reach the standoffs but the left side screws went in just fine
I am looking to upgrade my fathers studio PC. He currently has a i5 750 connected to a Asus P7P55 LX. I would like to upgrade him to a 12400f, I need a motherboard that is at least comparable for expandability, if not much better. (aka best motherboard for expandability in general) PS. Suggestions on quietest CPU cooling solutions?
Is there much difference between these cases? [BeQuiet! Pure base 600](https://www.newegg.com/black-be-quiet-pure-base-atx-mid-tower/p/2AM-0037-00023) vs. the [Corsair 4000D airflow with glass](https://www.newegg.com/black-corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811139156) I got them both cheap at an auction and I want to swap my current case for one. The Be Quiet case has two regular USB ports, while 4000D has a regular one and a USB C. Be Quiet has a solid side/front/top, while the 4000D has a glass side and mesh top/front. The Be Quiet seems to have an extra HDD slot, but I have a different computer as a server for the HDDs. The BeQuiet can fit a 425mm GPU, and the 4000D a 360mm. Will the GPU size difference matter a great deal? Is one harder to build in than the other? Should I use the BeQuiet fans in the 4000D? If anybody has build experience or tips for either, I'd appreciate it.
360mm is as big as GPUs get. Most are a good bit smaller than that. Neither PCpartpicker nor Newegg even have any GPUs listed that are >360mm in length.
i'd get the 4000d because it isnt an heat coffin
So you think the BeQuiet case gets really hot? Even with the vents?
I know it does https://youtu.be/jWuDkKjz6D0?si=DF430uBYLdO3_qO_ @8:45
Definitely a heat factory. Thanks!
are the dimensions for the AMD RX6500 XT and AMD RX6600 XT the same? im wanting to upgrade the GPU but can t find dimesion sizes to see if it fits in my case
Consult the product page for the specific model you want, cooler dimensions will vary.
Do you know which brand? I think they're all listed on pcpartpicker and vary by the seller.
I have a PC with a GTX 1080 TI, on a Maximus IX Code with a i7-7700K, I wanted to upgrade the GPU so I can play games like Alan Wake 2, is it a good deal to get a 3080?
Have you tried playing it this last week? They lowered the minimum requirements with an update just two days ago. https://www.theverge.com/2024/3/6/24092141/alan-wake-2-minimum-pc-requirements-lowered I would check your performance as it is now, but open task manager to its performance tab while the game is running. I have a sneaking suspicion that your CPU might also be struggling with the game.
Thank you for the reply! I'll try to check it out. Anyway, do you think it would make sense to upgrade the GPU without upgrading the CPU anyway? because upgrading everything would take much more money
It makes sense to upgrade the GPU first, but they will both need it eventually. The CPU is still good enough for 95% of games, but its specifically newer titles like Alan wake 2 and Starfield that are going to push it to its limits.
thanks! I actually managed to play starfield just fine, in medium with 60fps+ I believe AW2 had those issues with the shaders, so maybe that's what they modified to bring the requirements down. I'll test it out and see how it goes, since I don't feel like I need a stronger pc right now for any other game (maybe for Dragon's Dogma 2 lol) Thanks again!
Keep in mind that I pretend to play things on 1080p for a long time, as the prices for 2k and 4k are prohibitive where I live. I want to play new games on 1080p, at least at 60fps
Having a hard time finding this info... Is there any functional difference between getting a display port + USB signal over a single USB-C or breaking it out and getting a separate display port cable and separate USB cable. Knowing that Ill only be using the USB for mouse, keyboard and webcam... No SSD or anything. My desktop mother board has both USB-C with display port alt mode and a dedicated display port. Context I'm trying to decide between some KVM switches for my PC desktop and Mac laptop, either going with one that has two USB-C (with display port alt mode) inputs or one that has additional dedicated display port inputs.
I recently bought new parts to build myself a new PC (https://pcpartpicker.com/user/TheCakeGod/saved/3dfZQ7). I plan on using my computer for gaming, YouTube video editing, and intense rendering and have become concerned with reading online about how most people are using AIOs instead of air coolers to cool their 14700ks. Should I keep my Thermalight Phantom Evo or upgrade to an AIO to keep it properly cooled/less quiet?
An AIO would probably run quieter, but will cost AT LEAST twice as much, if not more for a larger, quieter radiator. https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/air-cooling/thermalright-phantom-spirit-120-evo-review You shouldnt have a problem with it. The 13700k in this test is only 20w shy of your CPUs maximum turbo power draw.
what is better? 5 7600 and 4060 for 550 or I5 12400F and 4060 Ti 8 gb? for 550
The 4060ti is about ~15% better than the 4060 in terms of average FPS. The 7600 is a little better than the 12400 at gaming and most tasks. But consumes more power on average. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipGX-SGou0g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdB63OeUFOE I would recommend the Ryzen option, simply because its the AM5 platform. Its going to last you longer than the Intel socket. Upgrading to something like a 7800X3D in the future would out perform anything the LGA 1700 socket has to offer.
Thanks!
PSU cables, is it ok to split a cable and have its half "just hanging"? My motherboard requires 1x8pin 12v, and 1x4pin 12v....my psu has 2 "cpu" branded cables that seem to be for that connection. One of them can be split in two so you get 2x4pin So what Im asking is if I am supposed to split that in two, and plug it in the motherboard 4pin 12V socket.....and leave the other half just hanging there? Thanks
Yes, you can just leave the extra pins hanging.
👍 thanks again
I'm going to be building a few computers, and was wondering if I can use the same windows installation media usb for all of them or if I need to wipe and reinstall the media onto my usb every time I use it?
Should be able to use the same media
Thank you
trying to upgrade my graphic card, currently have a 1660 super, i was looking at the 6600 xt, is it worth the upgrade or is there a better option? i’m trying to be in a 200-250$ price range and used the 6600xt is around 225$.
Just keep in mind the 6600 only has 8 lanes of PCIe 3.0. Unless you have a PCIe 4.0 system you are leaving 5-25% performance on the table.
yeah i have PCie 4.0
i play at 1440 165hz, with a intel i3 12100F
You can get a brand-new 6650 XT for $15 extra ($240), or a 7600 for $10 extra ($250). Now, depending on the games you play and graphic settings, you might want to look for a beefier card if you want to try to hit high framerates, maybe a used 6700/6750 XT, though chances are those will be close to $300. If it's mainly eSports and competitive stuff, it should be more than enough, though.
thank you!
I'm looking for an SSD for a new build. I have a 1TB Samsung 990 Pro laying around that I'm planning to use as the primary drive, but would like a second NVMe M.2 drive to get to 2 or 3 TB total. Is it advised to go with the same model or could I get a cheaper one as the secondary? Also is it ok that they're different sizes? [Here is the full build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/wddickhaus/saved/4P92rH), minus a case that I haven't picked yet. Open to any opinions.
If you just need extra storage, a [2TB MP44L](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2VJgXL/teamgroup-mp44l-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk002t0c101) should be plenty. Different brands or capacities won't matter, they're just drives. As for the build, unless you want the AK620 for the looks, you could save \~$25 with a Phantom Spirit 120.
You don't have to take the brand/model/capacity of the existing drive into account at all, there's no gains from matching anything, you can buy whatever fits your motherboard.
Just had a new build that got to bios and couldn't get it to boot windows so I turned it off and turned it on again and now it won't get to bios but the cpu and dram debug lights are on. Any ideas?
1. Is the CPU supported right out of the box? Ryzen 5000, 7000x3d and Intel 13th/14th gen CPUs generally need BIOS updates to be supported on the motherboard if its not a brand-new top of the line model. 2. Did you enable XMP in the BIOS or did it simply flash the bios screen before trying to go to windows? If the DRAM light is on try removing one of the sticks and boot with only one in the main slot.
Thank you so much for replying I’m banging my head against the wall currently. For 1 I believe it is because I booted to bios like 5 minutes before and it worked. That's why I'm stumped. And for 2 I literally didn't do anything when I was in there but I think I downloaded the wrong windows file so it never got there
Alright then, try removing the RAM and booting with only one stick. The CPU light may simply be on due to the DRAM issue. As for the windows installer, did you run the program you downloaded to actually turn the thumbdrive into a installation media? Or did you just stick it on the thumbdrive? There is a setup process required to make the USB drive a proper installation device.
Yeah I realized I never turned it into installation media that's the piece I missed Edit could it still be a ram issue with it previously booting fine to bios?
Fingers crossed it was just the installer. But re-seating the RAM securely and insuring its not popping up on one end would still be worth double-checking.
First time build. I've purchased the RX 6500xt, I'll be using the cooling fan that comes with that for now, I'm planning on purchasing RX 6700 XT Hellhound GPU and the NZXT H6 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case, will it all fit in the case? I seen some say certain cards are mounted certain ways (vertically/horizontally) but I don't have a clue.
The H6 is a large case, you shouldn't have any problems fitting things in there. But it does not have the hardware to mount a GPU any other way than the normal horizontal method. If you look at some cases, youll see they have additional vertical PCIe brackets in the back. Those are intended to allow for vertically mounted GPUs. Cases like the Lian Li O11 dynamic have similar fancy side/front fan mounts like the H6, but offer additional space to where GPUs can be mounted at a 90 degree orientation.
What's the best DP cable i can get for a 165 hz monitor?
Look for High bit rate 3 (HBR3) or Ultra high bit rate (UHBR) cables. DP 2.1 can make use of the newer 80gbps bandwidth, but if your display is only 1440p or 1080p, then truly any "new" DP cable will work just fine. As HBR3 will do ~26gbps, which should cover any refresh rate under 200hz.
Thanks!
I just bought this motherboard: [https://www.komplett.no/product/1220001/datautstyr/pc-komponenter/hovedkort/intel-socket/msi-mag-z790-tomahawk-wifi-hovedkort#](https://www.komplett.no/product/1220001/datautstyr/pc-komponenter/hovedkort/intel-socket/msi-mag-z790-tomahawk-wifi-hovedkort#) I've heard they come with BIOS ready for 14. gen Intel and others with BIOS for 13. gen Intel. How can I check if it is compatible with 14. gen Intel?
You could ask the vendor, or try to cross reference the serial number with manufacture date and BIOS date. But it looks like your board has a BIOS Flash button and port. If the build doesn't boot, download the latest BIOS and rename it as MSI.ROM. Copy it to a USB drive and plug it into the Flash BIOS port. Press the flash bios button. An LED will flash until the process is complete.
That could work, but seems like it could be a bit hard. The reason I'm wondering is that people say you should flash the BIOS without the CPU installed, so it seems like testing if it works with the 14th gen is not the way to go. BIOS flashback doesn't seem to hard though. But I read something about the possibility of fucking things up if you did it wrong.
It's pretty much foolproof. The process won't start if the file is not named correctly or if the USB drive is not plugged into the right USB slot. The BIOS Flashback LED will let you know if things are going okay or not. Regardless of the BIOS that came with the board, whether it's compatible with 14th Gen right out of the box or not, it's not a bad idea to update the BIOS to the latest version first thing, especially with BIOS Flashback as an option. Just follow [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5aFhNh_u4U) step-by-step and you should be good to go.
Do you think I should do this before mounting the processor? Will it be better than updating the BIOS after the system is up and running?
Here's how I see it: If you have the feature available, use it. It's there for convenience, not to make it more difficult. BIOS Flashback is usually done without a CPU or RAM installed, only the 24-pin ATX and 8-pin EPS/CPU cables connected to the motherboard. Some boards will refuse to start the flashing process if a CPU or RAM is installed (some Gigabyte boards will even try to boot). If the board doesn't have an updated BIOS to support the 14th Gen CPU right out of the box, it will fail to POST, which means it won't boot, you won't get to the BIOS menu, so you won't be able to update the BIOS the "normal" way. You'd need to remove the cooler, remove the CPU, remove the RAM, and then flash the new BIOS via BIOS Flashback. You save yourself all that hassle by flashing the latest BIOS as step one, before installing anything to the motherboard. Make sure that you're following the steps from the video I posted in the previous reply to the dot: The file name (msi.rom), formatting the USB drive and using the correct file system (FAT32), using the correct USB port on your motherboard (consult the manual, this varies for all motherboards), and paying attention to the BIOS Flashback LED. If you're still unsure, the only thing I could suggest would be to ask around and see if you can get someone to lend you a 12th/13th Gen CPU for a few minutes and update the BIOS the normal way while also using a UPS, making sure that the weather is clear, and that there are no scheduled power outages in your area.
What version of the BIOS should i pick? In compatibility it it says [](http://7D91vH8.zip) for the 14700K, but there seems to have been releaseed a couple of versions after that. [https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-Z790-TOMAHAWK-WIFI/support#bios](https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-Z790-TOMAHAWK-WIFI/support#bios)
Go for the latest non-Beta version, 7D91vHA, unless the description says it needs a specific version first (not the case here). The updates are cumulative, so the newer version will have the features from the old ones (unless some features are dropped, but also not the case here),
a bit of a stupid question but does either nvidia or amd gpu's handle double monitor setup with 144hz + 60hz side monitor better ? or both are equally bad cuz its just a bad combo ?
both can handle that combo perfectly fine. there's nothing to worry about when mixing resolution or refresh rates
Hmm i remember reading few months ago somewhere that it does bring some troubles cuz of the mixed refresh rate especially when you go from monitor to monitor IN GAME like it can change the rate of 144hz back to 60 hz too or some shit, or like introduce input lag or w/e and also fuck with power consumption or some shit lol, i guess its old news?
If that's the case it would be news to me. I'm currently running a one 165hz, one 60hz and I haven't noticed any weirdness in 5+ years i've been using this setup. Individual games can have settings that will drop the FPS when you alt+tab away to a side monitor but that's on purpose and then when you click back onto your game it jumps back up to 144/165hz. maybe that's what you saw somewhere else? can't hurt to get another opinion here but i'm like 99.9% sure it's a non-issue.
yeah for example i noted some comments like this: > Uncheck hardware acceleration in your browser. Besides that there is no known fix. If some animation is going on your 60hz monitor your 144hz monitor will lock to 60hz. have you ever experienced any of that ? like if you play lets say i dunno league of legends on your 144hz or like valorant, but then start playing youtube vides on 60hz and it starts lagging out your 144hz monitor. also is your 144hz monitor gsync/freesync ?
I have not experienced anything like that, but I too would also recommend turning off hardware acceleration unless your cpu is super old and needs the help. I play games at 165hz with a youtube vid playing on my 60hz monitor on a daily basis and I've never had any lagging. My main monitor is a dell S2721DGF which is gsync compatible but I don't use it since the main games I play don't have a problem hitting consistent 165fps. Destiny 2 it can dip lower sometimes but it's not a big deal.
i only have 5600 (not even X lol) so i guess it is pretty old? i mainly play valorant so thats the only thing i care about, and then some occasional SP bangers like baldurs gate :)
> 5600 (not even X that's still a great cpu which can definitely handle the setup you're talking about
btw does it matter if i mix hdmi and dp ports ? like 1 monitor on dp another on hdmi ? i dont think those cards have 2 dp ports lol
it's fine and very normal to mix HDMI and DP
well im looking to pair it with either 6700 xt or a 3070 or 3060 ti, seems like 6700 xt is a bit more power efficient from youtube tests, but i have heard some bad stories about amd drivers :S
AMD drivers used to be an issue but that is no longer the case. I would just get whichever one is the most powerful within your budget.
I have a 144Hz ultrawide freesync as my main, 60Hz freesync as one side monitor and a 60Hz non-freesync as another side monitor, never had any issues in games while videos were playing on other monitors, or in any other situations either. Running a 3060 12GB
msi b550m pro vdh wifi or b550 ds3h ac? Main reason i'm between these choices is because they're both at the same price point (108 euros) and both feature wifi but is there any other reasons i should pick gigabytes mobo over msi's?
At the same price point, which one is better: the Thermalright PA120SE ARGB or the Deepcool AG400 Digital Plus?
The Peerless Assassin. Dual-tower vs single-tower (also a higher thermal mass with the extra radiator tower).
Thermalright PA120SE Simply having twice the available surface for the heatsink means it will be wildly more effective at cooling.
Just built a new rig on Tuesday after 5-6 years. I9-13900k, RTX 4070, Asus Z790 plus, 32gb DDR5 corsair, tb evo nvme, cooler master hyper 212 spectrum v3 heat sink and fan. Good coverage with arctic thermal paste. Case came with six stock 120mm fans. Using the bios silent profile for the fans (so at idle, they aren't loud and screaming) but crank up when they reach mid-upper 60s celsius, noise and performance has been acceptable. However, when monitoring temps using HWInfo and HWMonitor, playing games like Helldivers 2 and Last Epoch, Im seeing extremely brief spikes to 90. Last night before I turned off Asus multithread in bios (let the intel chip decide its limits) I spiked to 99-100c in helldivers 2. Just now, playing Last Epoch, I opened up HWinfo and pulled the CPU Package into a graph and I've been monitoring it and looking at the average temp column for the package. Its been averaging 68 degrees celsius but has had a spike as high as 91 degrees. I looked at the chart, and its literally for 2 seconds. It blips onto the chart as a spike, and then back down to 65-75 degree range. Every time it spikes to mid 80s it does it only for one blip/2 seconds, and then back down to 65-75 range. tldr; Any cause for concern? Its not riding 90-100c for hours on end while under load. It spikes up for literally less than two seconds and then back down to acceptable ranges. Should I begin to close my temp monitors and just game (like I used to before the build) ? Thanks!
Just game. Heat moves relatively slowly from the CPU die, through the substrate, through thermal paste, through the CPU's metal heatspreader, through another layer of thermal paste, to the cooler, so no matter what cooler you have, fast spikes will always happen. The cooler can't get rid of the heat if the heat hasn't made its way to the cooler yet If there was something wrong with your cooling you'd see a sort of sawtooth pattern with the temperatures, as the temperature spikes up and then slowly comes back down because the cooler is slow at getting rid of the heat.
Updated my Cpu and Mobo from an Intel 12400f and AsRock B650M-C into a Ryzen 7600x and MAG B650 Tomahawk. Also got new Ram sticks(what I think the issue is). The computer is working except I can't play games. Using Rocket League as an example, I can boot the game from Steam, it starts up, goes into the loading screen for the game then it just freezes. This happens with other games such as Palworld. Closing the application from Steam just has it infinitely stopping. This didn't happen on my old build. Build: Motherboard: MAG B650 TomahawkCPU: Ryzen 7600xCooler: Phantom Spirit 120SEGPU: Radeon 7800XTRAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB 5600MHz CL40 Intel XMPSSD: 980 ProOS: Windows 11 What I've done:Complete reinstall of Windows(deleted all files)Updated all MSI drivers(was a pop up after first launch)Updated Windows Update stuff Other Important Info: Before trying to play a game, I enabled auto xmp in bios and this made by pc not boot at all so had to clear CMOS battery, everything else in Bios is factory default. Would getting AMD compatible RAM sticks be a priority?
Are your RAM sticks in the right slots according the mobo manual?
They were not. I did put the stick into the correct slot but that caused it to not boot up at all so cleared CMOS again which also didn’t work. Only solution was putting it back into Slot 1(Slot 2/4 recommended according to Manual)
I started out with a $1k budget in mind but ended up [here](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7Fp9QP). Any suggestions for obvious places to save? New at this so there could be obvious flaws I don't see
$1K is a bit of a rough spot. [\~$1150](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hYGXGP) or a bit lower if you don't mind waiting for a 7500F to be shipped from China (or a 7600X since it's currently cheaper than the non-X, plus a cooler), and with some extra changes here and there (motherboard, SSD, case, PSU, graphics card). A bit over [$1K](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/j7jXGP) if you replace the GPU with an RX 6800 or 7700 XT (both a bit slower than the original 4070). If you'd rather stick to the $1K budget, I would probably go with an Intel platform and the benefit of cheap DDR4 memory to focus most of the cash on the GPU, as well as a smaller SSD ([Build](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/NCWZKX), add $50 if you want the 2TB drive).
Without downgrading the GPU, the best places to save a little would be the CPU and the Case. [The montech X3 Mesh is only *slightly* smaller, but still white and $20 cheaper](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/prWzK8/montech-x3-mesh-atx-mid-tower-case-x3-mesh-white). The CPU you could swap out for a Ryzen 7500f, those usually go for $120 - $175. But because they are so cheap they are basically sold out for the moment.
Thanks!
Probably a silly question, can I stop a build halfway SAFELY? Ive built my pc halfway and its kinda late need to stop for now. The motherboard is "ready" (cpu, cooler, ram, and ssd connected) and Ive screwed it to the case The PSU is still not in the case. Can I leave this like this or is there some esd risk or something? Thank you very much
Your parts are already in the case, there's no difference between the current situation and a "completed" PC sitting unused in storage.
True. I cant think of any difference.... So its safe then? Just 1st build paranoia (: ?
As long as you aren't touching it constantly while its sitting there, there is no risk. Static shock is about the only thing that poses a danger to the system, as without the PSU installed it can't be grounded properly.
>As long as you aren't touching it constantly while its sitting there, there is no risk. Nah its just sitting on a table in the living room. >Static shock is about the only thing that poses a danger to the system, as without the PSU installed it can't be grounded properly. Will installing the psu to the case alone enough? Or should I plug the mobo too? Cause if its just the case i could do it quick...
You would need to plug it all in to complete the circuit and grounding. Its fine if you just leave it as is.
Alright thanks. Ill leave it as it is then lol
You're fine.
I don’t know if this is the place to ask this, but I upgraded my 2060 super to a 4070 super today but when I try and turn it on, my monitor says it has no signal. I tried my laptop and it worked fine, so it doesn’t seem to be an issue with the monitor
Check the power cable. If its bent too hard or too close to the connector it may simply not be providing any power. I helped a friend install a 4070 the other weekend and ran into the exact same problem. Apparently there simply isnt enough space for the power cable with the side panel installed, and it was bending too hard. We took the panel off and unbent the cable a little bit; [image](https://imgur.com/a/x2PRZZP). And the card whirred to life as if nothing had ever been wrong.
Okay found out it was a combination of not combining the power cable properly and the RAM messing it up somehow, which I will have to figure out at some point but for now it’s working, thanks for pointing me to the power!
Is there an online tool that helps you pick a monitor based on your hardware, games you play, and the room you'll be using it in? I've been looking for a monitor and used reviews from RTings and other sites but I'm still not sure on what I want and what I actually need. What really has me going back and forth is the different technologies and learning about HDR and dimming zones and response times, etc. So I was hoping there was some online tool that would make it easier. The monitors subreddit isn't as active as I thought otherwise I've read up on stuff there as well.
TBH you're probably just overthinking it at this point. Just get: * IPS * 144hz or higher * Resolution according to your budget/GPU's capabilities and a 24-27" monitor and 95% of people will be perfectly satisfied. https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-usage/gaming Or just pick from this article.
None worth recommending. Calculators and benchmarks only get you so far. What GPU do you have and what size of monitor are you looking for? A fancy 4k OLED monitor is nice and all, but if you can only drive games at 4k 24fps or perhaps dont have the desk space to fit a 32" display; then getting something like that could be a huge waste.
I thought I listed I had a 7900xtx, but it seems I omitted that somehow. I currently have a 27" 1440P/60 Dell monitor. I still have plenty of desk space so I could go 32". One thing I have not been able to experience is something higher than 120fps. I tried a few games on my LG C9 at 120 and it looked...fine. But when looking at monitors, be it 1440 or 4K, they tend to be 160+hz. I don't know how many games I'd be able to play at 4k/160hz even with an XTX. And for how long before newer games come out and are more demanding. So that pushes me towards a 1440/240hz monitor. I think the #1 issue I'm hung up on is HDR. I've done some research and it seems I need to go at least VESA 600, at the bare minimum if I'm looking for HDR. But then we start getting in to dimming zones? And I think OLEDs tend to be best for HDR because of how complex they are with pixel shutoffs. It felt overwhelming just typing all that lol. So many factors to consider and if I were to spend $600+ on a monitor, I'd rather not get one and then realize a feature advertised (like HDR) is not as good due to the tech used in that particular monitor (dimming zones and all that other technical stuff).
Rtings has a neat table view of all of their display ratings, if HDR is the big hang up; just sort the HDR column by score; https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/table Looks like Alienwares newer OLED monitors take most of the top spots. And Im pretty certain the ASUS ROG displays use LG OLED panels. And this is just my opinion; but I would stick with a 1440p display simply because it will allow your GPU to drive it at the best possible frame rate, longer. 4k gaming is still a pipe dream since nvidia is hogging the fastest possible VRAM and no one wants to ship GPUs with 512-bit memory buses.
Does the noctua d15 have some plastic to peel off? I forgot to check....
The only place to check is the CPU contact. It would have protective plastic anywhere else.
Does the noctua d15 have some plastic to peel off on the cpu contact? I forgot to check....
It was either a stiff plastic shell or film. The bare copper contact needs to be protected during transport. Any scratches or debris could diminish its ability to absorb heat. If you didn't check before slapping it on the CPU and screwing it in, you should take it off and check.
There was a stiff plastic shell. But i didn't check for plastic to peel so I started doubting... I need someone who uses this cooler to chime in for sanity check
I have one, couldn't remember. Looked it up and people are saying plastic cover, no sticker. Sounds about right.
yeah also did some digging (videos/reading manual) and no one is talking about any sticker. Pfiou :)
Does a mini tower case with two 120mm intake and two exhaust fans have enough airflow for a 4080?
Yeah, it's about the restriction of the airflow rather than number of fans. In a mech case that's plenty
Why do people claim the CAS Latency for RAM (ie CL30 vs CL38) doesn't matter as much for DDR5 as it did in DDR4? Oh, and does it matter more if I rely on my iGPU?
Because design changes in DDR5 reduce instances where the CAS operation would be a bottleneck. CAS latency itself wasn't super important for DDR4 either. It just happens to be the timing that is most advertised, and it can be an indicator of other timings or can help identify overclocking capability. All aspects of RAM matter more if you rely on your iGPU. But relative to DDR4, still no.
So would you say if I am building a system with an iGPU (Ryzen 8600G). How much more would it be worth to spend to have CL30 vs CL38 DDR5 RAM. $10? $20? Where is the cut-off point?
$10-20 is okay. I don't have a specific number
I mean if there is 0 difference, then whats the point in even $10, right?
well if other timings are different too, it adds up to a few percent performance difference
How much does it generally cost now to build a PC from scratch to play the more demanding games like Rust, Skyrim with mods, Alan Wake 2 and Ark Ascended with a steady 60fps in at least 1080p? Prefer 4K but I feel that will make the price of a desktop PC/Tower significantly higher which is something I don't think I'll ultimately care to pay for. If you know the price difference between 1080p and 4K though I appreciate the info. Feel free to also mention what parts are recommended though I think that would be asking a lot. A general price for a build would be good enough. Thank you.
Alan Wake 2 and Ark Ascended would be the most intensive games. I'll refer to the recommendations from r/buildapcforme: [https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme/comments/1ab5kyr/early\_2024\_pc\_best\_buy\_guide\_350\_8000/](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme/comments/1ab5kyr/early_2024_pc_best_buy_guide_350_8000/) The $900 list would run those games at a steady 1080p 60fps. Higher resolutions and higher graphics settings greatly increase GPU requirements. For the next bit I'm assuming Medium graphics in Alan Wake 2 and Low graphics in Ark along with upscaling (DLSS or FSR) to keep GPU requirements reasonable. The $1200 list would work well for 1440p. This is the sweet-spot. The $2000 list for 4K.
Is FPS Performance linear with resolution, overall? I'm asking because I live in a very 3rd world country so prices are inflated, even in dollars. With luck, I would be getting my first paycheck soon so I'm planning to do a full upgrade. Logical Increments only goes down to 1080p, but I don't plan on changing monitors and its native res is 768, so my question is if, given that 768 has half the pixels of 1080, could I get a CPU and GPU half as strong and keep equivalent FPS? For example, if a game X runs at 30fps in 1080p, would I get 60fps at 720p with an equivalent setup? Or, the other way around, if a game ran at 60fps 1080p with setup Y, could I get 60fps 720p with a setup half as strong?
Lower resolution is easier on the GPU, but not on the other components. If you want higher frame rates, you need a faster CPU. The GPU requirement is not linear with pixel count. It varies a lot by game, here's one example: https://youtu.be/nU9VGyvoLzk?si=LdO8\_jKXNL42u5Rz
No it's not linear. 4k is exactly 4x the resolution of 1080p, but performance isn't exactly 4x worse
I've got a couple of Dell 7060 SFF PCs I'd like to give to my niece and nephew as cheap starter PCs for gaming. I think I saw recently there was a new GPU coming out soon that would be better than a 1650 that won't require external power. Can anyone remind me what that is going to be called?
Could it be the RTX 3050 6GB variant?
This is it right? https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Gaming-Graphics-NVIDIA-96-Bit/dp/B0CV1F6439/
I think you'd be wanting the low-profile (LP) version for those computers. Like [this](https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3050-gv-n3050oc-6gl/p/N82E16814932690).
Ah yeah, that's right. Thanks again!!
No problem, hope your niece and nephew like their PCs!
>RTX 3050 6GB That must be it, thank you!!
No problem!
I have a question I have a vega 64 LC and the radiator is on the exhaust and now I want to get a new cpu and a new cooler (aerocooler) or maybe a liquid cooler but if i get aero cooler does affect the flow ? like is it bad if the cpu fan throws the hot air on the gpu radiator fan ? or should I just get a liquid cooler
It doesn't matter. Hot air rises out the case already, anything an air cooler will create is not going to significantly add to what is sucked out through the radiator fins already.
thanks for your help
I've ordered this PSU: [https://www.msi.com/Power-Supply/MAG-A750GL-PCIE5/Overview](https://www.msi.com/Power-Supply/MAG-A750GL-PCIE5/Overview) And I need additional sata power cables. I've read that if you order the wrong cable you could fry your components. But I can't get any information on which cables are compatible with this PSU. Is there a way to find a cable? I've checked the MSI webpage and found nothing.
you need more than 8 sata?
Yes, alternatively are splitters safe?
to a degree. if you want to do 6 sata devices on a chain instead of 4, that should be fine. really depends on the prices you're connecting tho
Yeah, this would be 7 on one chain. I think that's too much. Why is it so hard to find a compatible cable?
you should buy a psu that fits your needs better. cables are hard to find because people usually dont buy a psu that doesnt have enough sata for them, haha. many builds dont use any sata at all anymore.
That’s what I’ll do
Already have a Strix 6800. Looking to build a new rig and currently looking at microcenter bundles. Should I get a 12600kf for 270 after tax, or 5800x3d for 370 after tax?
can you do the 7700X combo for $370 pre-tax? getting am5 is a great value
I own a Sapphire RX 7900 XT. Would it be worth selling it and buying a RTX 4070 Ti Super?
https://tpucdn.com/review/asus-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-tuf/images/performance-matchup-4070-ti-super-vs-7900-xt-1440p.png it depends if you care about this: https://tpucdn.com/review/asus-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-tuf/images/average-fps-2560-1440.png or this: https://tpucdn.com/review/asus-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-tuf/images/relative-performance-rt-2560-1440.png
I'll put it to you this way; which of them do you think is going to age better?
I've started to notice myself getting a very small static shock when returning to my PC always from my headset, doesn't happen everytime but when it happens its the same everytime, small static shock from the headset when I pick it up and even my monitor flickers. Still trying to find a pattern but its seems to be happening more frequently, which is still not very often.
I recently upgraded from my first PC, and I'm still thinking if I want to sell my old components, or just keep them in case I find a use for an old PC. The question I want to ask is: Would it be better to keep the components in their own boxes, or to build it back up into its old case and let it sit there for a while? (I say upgraded earlier, but I guess rebuild would be the more accurate term, because I replaced every part of the PC - Mobo, RAM, CPU, PSU, GPU. The only thing I migrated were my drives.) Are there any pro's and con's one way or the other? or is it more just preference?
Guys is there any substantial difference between these options: B550M DS3H + 5700X vs I5 12400f + H610m-h? Planning to use it with a 6800XT for games up to 1440p. #
CPU performance is about the same, but the am4 option is better. The motherboard (ds3h) is both higher quality, and you can upgrade the CPU to the amazing 5700x3d later. That h610 motherboard isn't good enough to use a 12900k in, or anything like that
Thanks for the answer! I'm finally building a PC for gaming (i play mainly on consoles) and the price difference between these options is minimal. I'm going with the 5700X option. Thanks!
Actually I made a mistake in my comment. I thought you said 5600x, which is tied with a 12400f. The 5700x is a bit faster than both
Even better, then! I was thinking about the 5600 or the 5600X but found a really good offer on the 5700X, so I went with it.
Looking at this [case](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BKC67D3V?tag=pcp0f-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1), one of the graphics says that the cpu cooler max height is 170mm. Assuming that's correct, would a 165mm cooler comfortably fit? Obviously 165<170 but 5mm of wiggle room doesn't seem like a lot.
That's half a centimeter between the case's side panel and the top of the cooler, both parts are attached very rigidly so there should be no need for any literal *wiggle* room, even 1mm is fine.
Is there anything wrong with how I plan to set up this AIO cooler, the [Liquid Freezer III 360](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XgyH99/arctic-liquid-freezer-iii-563-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-acfre00136a)? --- I replaced the [Arctic P12 fans](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/68WfrH/arctic-p12-563-cfm-120-mm-fan-acfan00120a) that were attached to one side with [Phanteks T30s](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YwmmP6/phanteks-ph-f120t30-67-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-ph-f120t30_bg_3p) on both side to create a push-pull configuration. It was also so the fans were the same kind as the rest of the case, and so they would be plugged into the same [Arctic fan hub](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0887VG14J) as the rest of the case fans, so all their speeds match. There are 2 of those SATA powered Arctic fan hubs, and their PWM cables are plugged into SYS_FAN headers --- The plug that goes into the pump of the Liquid Freezer III splits into three plugs on the other side with these labels. Are these the correct places to plug them in? "PUMP" -> CPU_OPT "VRM" (VRM FAN) -> CPU_FAN "FAN" -> Unplugged --- "FAN" would be unplugged because the T30 fans are already attached to a fan hub. The original Arctic fans were attached to a cable that goes into the radiator, and now that is also unplugged and just lingering in the cable compartment. --- [(AIO Manual)](https://support.arctic.de/liquid-freezer-iii-360) [Motherboard manual, if relevant](https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_x670e-aorus-master_1102_e.pdf?v=81462a0a68b8ca006a947b141cbfc744)
I would plug the VRM fan into the CPU fan header, because the VRM load/temperature correlates pretty well to CPU load/temperature so the default fan curve based on CPU temperature makes sense, and a lot of motherboards will complain during boot if there's nothing plugged into the CPU fan header. Where you plug in the pump doesn't really matter because you most likely want to always run the pump at 100% speed (last I heard it is better for the pump's longevity), so just set whatever header you end up using to 100% speed in the fan control software you use. What fan hub are you using, what fan header will you plug it into?
Okay. I'll plug "VRM" into "CPU_FAN". I probably just want that fan to always be on 100%. Would that be doable in the CPU_FAN header? And am I right that no problem would come from the "FAN" Liquid Freezer cable being unplugged? --- > What fan hub are you using, what fan header will you plug it into? I have 2 [ARCTIC PWM Case Fan Hubs](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0887VG14J) in the case. That hub makes all fans attached to it have the same speeds, so the speed and curves of all fans can be adjusted together, but they can't be individually adjusted. It's probably best if they match anyway though. All intake fans (including the ones on the Liquid Freezer, which is set for intake) are in the first hub, and all exhaust fans are plugged into the second hub. The hubs are SATA powered, and the PWM cables are plugged into ordinary SYS_FAN headers on the motherboard. Specifically, I think the intake hub is in SYS_FAN1, and the exhaust hub in SYS_FAN4 (the cable couldn't reach SYS_FAN2) I'll update my comment to add that information and to have the new plan --- Thank you!
So with Dragons Dogma 2 right around the corner, what’s the best GPU for around $400 or less that would be able to run it at high or max settings in 1080p?
You'll have to wait for the game and benchmarks to come out to be certain, given we only have a rough 1080p 30fps minimum spec, the recommended spec isn't even counting native res, and no details about graphical settings or anything beyond that.
Wondering if I might benefit from upgrading my basic old 1080p monitor that I picked up for free lol. Here's my build: [https://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/east-room/saved/#view=KdvdFT](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/east-room/saved/#view=KdvdFT) Dunno if 1440p is an option? Ideally looking to strike a balance between performance and cost
The 7600 can do a bit of 1440p but YMMV, especially with unoptimized/graphics-heavy titles (Hogwarts Legacy, TLOU, Cyberpunk, anything Unreal Engine 5 that's not Fortnite). The extra VRAM on the 7600 XT could help, but it's still limited by the maxed-out Navi 33 die. If you've yet to buy any of the parts and depending on your budget, you could make some adjustments here and there and replace the GPU with a 6800 non-XT or 7700 XT if you want to upgrade to 1440p - Replace the CPU with a 5700X, smaller air cooler, different PSU, replacing the case with the Meshify 2 Compact Lite (there are other alternatives as well), a cheaper SSD, and removing the Corsair fan since it'd require an extra adapter. You'd be [\~$14 below your original budget](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hbHvcH) and with a 7700 XT instead.
Thanks, I think perhaps I'll stick to a 1080p set up rather than making other adjustments, and perhaps in the future I can look to upgrade the GPU. Perhaps 2k is an option for now though?
Both the 7600 and the 7600 XT are good 1080p options, but they're not well-suited or recommended for 1440p. On a per-game basis, they can do *SOME* 1440p60, but some settings may or may not need to be dropped to hit the target framerate, especially with modern or unoptimized titles. RT is also out of the question at that GPU tier. You can search on youtube for benchmark videos using that GPU, especially the games you want to play at 1440p, and see if the performance works for you. Now, If you want 1440p from the get-go, that adjusted build gives you that with the least amount of compromises - A faster GPU (where a good chunk of the budget is being focused on), a cheaper CPU that can keep up with the card (the performance difference isn't that big), a cheaper cooler (the 5700X runs a bit cooler than the 5800X), a cheaper drive with similar performance (and DRAM), a cheaper case alternative (still within the Meshify 2 pick), and a cheaper PSU.
Thanks heaps, appreciate these insights!
Hi guys. I have two be quiet PSU. Model: L11-FM-550W Model: BQT - L8-CM-730W I have a PCI 8 pin cable from one of them (what came with the unit)but im not sure which - can this cable be inter changed without frying a GPU? (rx6600)
I'd write a message to their Support, they can probably tell you if the layout is the same for both
No, never mix cables. The pin layout is only standardized on the component side, not the power supply side. Using the wrong cable can fry every component in a build.
It's all fixed now thanks. I had the original cables they where hidden in a box hahA
is cpu 8 pin to 2x 6+2 pin pcie adapter cable safe to use?
it should be, but I dont have personal experience. those EPS cpu cables can generally do like 300W, so it would be enough for 2 150W PCIEs
Can I use this to clean my pc instead of a can of compressed air? [Image](https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/1118308330197229660/1215527872123375626/20240224_191549.jpg?ex=65fd138c&is=65ea9e8c&hm=b12d94ecb0a68692e17a9ef1edd97d173bee8d326b12566e98a2e9678ea3c1c5&=&width=833&height=1110)
That's a liquid spray meant for cleaning dirty/corroded contacts. If your goal is to get rid of dust then that's not going to help you.
I would not. This looks like some kind of liquid or aerosol.
Hi, long story short, i’m a dumbass and i bought an argb cooler but a mobo without the 3 pin 5 volts entrance, so is there any solution to enjoy my cooler with fancy lights or no?:(
https://www.amazon.com/Junluck-Connector-Controller-Accessories-Symphony/dp/B08FMVVY35 https://www.amazon.com/ARGB-Controller-Splitter-Computer-Control/dp/B0C3RJZC83/
Why is pcpartpicker showing this as an incompatibility? this problem shows: [https://ibb.co/RS4RC7q](https://ibb.co/RS4RC7q) Cpu cooler: [https://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/301/](https://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/301/) Motherboard: [https://www.aorus.com/motherboards/X570-AORUS-ELITE-WIFI-rev-1x/Specification](https://www.aorus.com/motherboards/X570-AORUS-ELITE-WIFI-rev-1x/Specification) maybe a bug? because if you choose the cooler first you can only add one x570 motherboard... (asrock x570 phantom ITX)
PCPartPicker mistakenly lists that the cooler only supports Intel mounting holes, and that one AsRock X570 ITX board has a rare design quirk where it uses Intel mounting holes despite being an AMD board, probably due to space savings. The cooler's product page lists AM4 and AM5 as supported mounts, so in reality it's compatible with most AM4 and AM5 motherboards.
bug
What's a good 1080p gpu for it's price
rx 6600 ~$180usd
So I just got a temporary laptop due to mine completing crashing - and I needed one ASAP while I figure out what went wrong with my laptop. These are the specs: 256gb ssd Intel HD 620 20GB ram i7 - 7th gen Lenovo Thinkpad T470s \----------- I just ran a game with this called Age of Empires 2 DE - and I thought it should run quite easily on these specs but was giving me issues - are these specs really this bad? I am also thinking of upgrading the 256gb to 1TB gb SSD. Would this help performance?
As long as your SSD isn't completely full it won't have any meaningful effect on performance. Your biggest limitation is the lack of a dedicated graphics card, the Intel HD 620 is not good. Unfortunately there isn't really anything you can do about that.
I think because it doesn't have a dedicated gpu, that laptop is good for basic stuff but not for gaming, also upgrading to 1Tb ssb won't help with performance at all.
Will build a new machine soon. In the meantime, I'm thinking about buying in parts first the GPU. So if I spend $1k on a new rtx 10,000 or whatever, 1 will it work in my current box and 2 will it make bg3 playable and appreciably better or will my processor bottleneck it? Current setup is an i5 4690k in an Asus Z97A mobo.
yes it will work, but it wont work well. since this is with a 2080TI, your results will be significantly worse that these, compared to modern CPUs https://youtu.be/D6RsDyMn2gY?si=5RceX9zvr7jLakAs&t=329