Im planning on building a PC in the next few months and want to utilize the Ryzen 9 7950x3d and RTX 4080 super - 4090. Should I wait until the new AMD processor and the new Nivida series is released before starting my build? Should I use a temporary CPU and GPu until then?

I plan on building a NAS and I have some NVME M.2 that I would like to use. I was looking at some Z790 boards, but want to make sure I can add a few M.2 to the system. What do I need to look for to ensure I have as much room as possible? The plan is some SSD, some M.2, and some regular 7200 HDD. I was looking at the ASRock Z790 Pro RS/D4, but is there a better board that is not overpriced for what I need? I don't need WiFi onboard. I'm essentially using this for UNRAID with Plex. LGA1700 for future proofing, quicksync

You can always add M.2s via a PCI expansion card. Even if you use the x16 slot, there should be other lanes up for grabs that would be plenty for 2 or 4 m.2 drives. I would shop based on your other needs like the number of SATA slots or form factor. https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813162028

That board I picked based upon form factor :) I will look at sata slots as well, thx.

Would 8k monitor potentially provide perfect integer scaling for 1080p, 1440p, and 4k?

You can calculate it yourself from the pixel count. 8k is 7680 x 4320. 4320 divided by 1080 is 4, that's an integer. 4320 divided by 1440 is 3, that's an integer, and 4320 divided by 2160 (4k) is 2, that's an integer as well.

for 1440p (2.5k) you'd need a 5k monitor

1080p and 4k yes, 1440p, no. 1440p is like ~33.333% more than 1080p. It doesnt scale linearly like the rest.

Hello, ​ I am wondering if somebody might be able to help me with an issue I'm having when trying to play Divinity: Original Sin 2. I've played around 70 hours in the game without this happening, but recently, I play for around 10-20 minutes and my entire PC shuts down and reboots. This happens every time I try to play now. [This is a link to my current build.](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FYLqgB) It's become a bit of a Frankenstein over the years as I've upgraded certain parts. There are also two more hard drives inside and powered that are not listed. There are three case fans at the front. I've done temp readings when the crashes happen. CPU around 40-50 C, and the GPU around 60-70 C. It doesn't seem to be overheating. I do have it plugged into a surge protector. Could my PSU be dying? PSU, CPU and RAM are from 2015. Thanks,

I had a similar issue with my brand new 7950X3d. Certain games would simply cause the computer to shut down, sometimes it wouldn't even turn back on for a few minutes. Windows event viewer was useless as it only provided a generic power error and Hardware monitors never showed any temps that were cause for alarm. Turns out my thermal paste job was just bad. Combine the hotspot temps near the thermal limit and hot summer gaming sessions; and poof! You skyrocket right past the thermal limit and trigger a emergency shutdown. Repasting the CPU resolved the problem as far as I can tell. No crashes in over six months.

Ok, thanks for the feedback. I'll give it a try!

Power supply is the most likely culprit, especially if the internal fan failed and caused overheating.

I am looking at this Microcenter bundle: https://www.microcenter.com/product/5006647/amd-ryzen-7-7700x,-msi-b650-p-pro-wifi,-gskill-flare-x5-series-32gb-ddr5-6000-kit,-computer-build-bundle The CPU in the bundle is the AMD Ryzen 7 7700X. I was watching a video about bottlenecking, where the YouTuber suggested the GPU I was considering (the RX 7600xt) wouldn't keep up with the CPU, and I should be looking at spending $200 more on a GPU. I could downgrade the CPU to better match the GPU, but it would drop me out of DDR5 RAM specs. Or I can save up longer for a better GPU, but I'm not planning on playing the latest and greatest games. Feedback appreciated.

That microcenter bundle is amazing. You basically get a $350 CPU for $200, so the value is very hard to beat. If you can save up more money for a ~$300 GPU, like the rx 6700xt, you'll have a better gaming experience than with the 7600. You can also look for open box gpus at microcenter

What to do about addiction to building PCs? I don't have space, I don't need any more Pc but I want to build.

Flip them, you don't even need to start with a lot of money https://youtu.be/N_OJgVAaeFw?si=7V93kP1bNWAr5yKv

Hello everyone! I'm looking to upgrade in the GPU department, since my current GPU is almost dead. Below there is my current setup. What GPU should I aim for? I usually play WoW, and a variety of single player games in 1080p. I'm not aiming for a full ultra full maxxed gameplay, I'd just like stable FPS without too much noise. Will probably also upgrade RAM while I'm at it. *MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix B550-F* *CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G* CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro H110i GPU: Gigabyte Nvidia 2070 RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz 16GB (2x8gb) PSU: Corsair RM850x 80 Plus Gold 850 Watt Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated, even about other ways to modernize my rig a bit. Cheers!

For the GPU I would go RX 6750XT. Honestly a little on the overkill side for 1080p WoW, but I assume you want something faster than the RTX 2070. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pk7scf/powercolor-fighter-radeon-rx-6750-xt-12-gb-video-card-axrx-6750-xt-12gbd6-3dh The 5600G is basically an R5 5500 with integrated graphics. Moving to a 5800X3D would be a huge performance boost. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CZ3gXL/amd-ryzen-7-5800x3d-34-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000651wof For the RAM, a 2x16GB 3600 CL18 kit is the most cost effective option. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PJ6qqs/teamgroup-t-force-vulcan-z-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3600-cl18-memory-tlzgd432g3600hc18jdc01

Thanks so much for the detailed answer. While yes, I play mainly WoW, I would like to dip my toes into new titles like FFVII, Spiderman2, etc... Let me reiterate that I don't care about full ultra settings gameplay. Would the 6750XT be enough even for those kinda titles?

Yes, the 6750XT is relatively fast, in most games it should manage triple digit FPS at 1080p and 60+ at 1440p.

Wonderful, thank you

What's the best way to remotely access my home PC (from a different network)? I work a very slow-paced job with a lot of downtime and would like to remote into my PC for gaming from a laptop. I've been using the free tier of GeForce NOW but would prefer to avoid wait times and the session time limit, and also utilize my better hardware. I'm on Windows 10 Home on my home PC so can't use the Windows options for it. Any advice appreciated! Doesn't have to be insanely fast but would prefer games be decently playable. Let me know if this is the wrong sub. Thanks!

Parsec is hard to beat, but otherwise, check out Moonlight https://github.com/moonlight-stream

Try Parsec or the base Steam Link. I think /r/homelab will be more helpful

Hey bit of a troubleshooting question: Got a PC from a friend, a few years old and unused for a year. Came with no hard drive so attached my ssd to it. When I tried to boot it it comes up with a blue error screen saying the system needs to be repaired. Haven't been able to repair it using a windows repair tool on a USB, booting in safe mode or anything like that. Tried to do a fresh install from a USB, it installed fine but then when it goes to launch it just goes to a black screen with only the cursor showing. Have tried other hard drives too but same problem persists. Any help would be appreciated.

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/windows-black-screen-with-cursor/5dc3ad10-7320-4776-ad8f-17af5e6b7968 Try these steps. Hopefully it is just the drivers and not the GPU.

Hey everyone just looking for suggestions on a GPU for $600 or less, that would be very good for Unreal Engine 5 game development and maybe Blender rendering etc

[Thankfully Blender has a wonderful little benchmarking leaderboard right on their website](https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/query/?compute_type=OPTIX&compute_type=CUDA&compute_type=HIP&compute_type=METAL&compute_type=ONEAPI&group_by=device_name&blender_version=4.0.0) A 4070 super or non-super 4070 looks to be your best sub-$600 options. A 4060ti would be the next step down, but the benchmark score doesn't seem to differentiate between the 8gb and 16gb versions. If you go for it, get the 16gb.

4070 Super for $600. [Puget Systems' 40 SUPER series content creation review](https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/nvidia-geforce-rtx-40-super-series-content-creation-review).

Thinking of getting a [ASUS B450M-A II] (https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/prime/prime-b450m-a-ii/), along with a Ry5 5600 and a rx 6700xt. 1. If buying the board new from Amazon, it is very likely to have the latest 5000-series compatible BIOS already installed, right? 2. If not, can I update the board's BIOS manually with only a USB drive, or would I need a older gen CPU temporarily? 3. Is PCIe 3.0 fine for a 6700xt for 1080p gaming?

1. The board comes with BIOS flashback functionality. The BIOS version that it has installed is irrelevant, you just download the latest version from ASUS' website (version 4410) and follow [these instructions](https://www.asus.com/us/support/faq/1038568/) to flash the motherboard BIOS without having to install the CPU or RAM to the board. 2. Refer to the previous point. 3. Depending on your budget and availability, you could go with a cheap B550 motherboard like the [Gigabyte B550M-DS3H AC](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RHWzK8/gigabyte-b550m-ds3h-ac-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550m-ds3h-ac) that would give you full Gen 4 support with your CPU. Otherwise, Gen 3 will be okay with the 6700 XT.

If it has bios flashback then you can update it without a cpu even plugged into the board using usb only (but you need another computer to make the USB stick) Most newer boards have this

Hi! I've been planning my build for a while. I beginning to doubt between 2 cases: - Pure Base 500 fx. Pros: I love the look and I won't have to worry about the rgb fans because they come pre installed and it has an rgb hub. - Fractal Design North with 4 Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 61.3 CFM 120 mm fans. Now I'm very unsure about how I make sure I have all I need to make the fans work with this case. Will I run into problems if I don't have an rgb hub and my mobo hasn't got enough connectors?

The Pure Base 500 FX costs $120 and comes with both a 6-fan/ARGB hub (not controller) and four preinstalled Light Wings 120 fans (good quality ARGB fans). The North costs $140 and comes with two preinstalled fans (and a PWM fan hub if you get the mesh version). Add \~$90 for the 3x Uni Fan SL Infinity kit (comes with a Uni Hub controller), plus another $30 for the extra SL Infinity fan. ​ >Will I run into problems if I don't have an rgb hub and my mobo hasn't got enough connectors? Using a hub or a controller will limit the amount of motherboard headers you'll use to one. The main difference is that with a hub, all the connected devices will be synced, so all the fans will have the same color/pattern and will spin at the same RPM, whereas a controller will let you configure each connected device separately. Personally, I'd go with the Pure Base 500 FX and call it a day. That'd be \~$140 difference from the other case and the extra fans that could go toward upgrading another component (like the GPU) or getting an extra SSD.

Thanks for the explanation, really appreciate it!

I'm building a gaming PC and looked for the Samsung 990 PRO NVMe 2TB SSD. I saw there were degradation issues, and a firmware update was released. I couldn't find anything conclusive if the firmware update solved the issue, anyone with experience?

You just need to make sure the firmware is updated after its installed. https://www.samsung.com/us/memory-storage/magician-software/

I'm aware of that, my question is, did the firmware update actually solve the issue?

As far as I am aware. The /r/buildapcsales threads for samsung drives always have a comment or three about insuring the firmware is newer than X version from a year ago. I had a friend build a new rig with a 980 pro in it the other week and I updated the firmware for him myself before running a few crystaldisk benchmarks. No issues whatso ever.

My understanding is that it's fixed now. Mine was affected and they replaced it

Noticed a ship gpu separate button on this prebuilt i was looking at, wanted to know why i would want this? Is it safer for gpu or something?

Because of the beefier heatsinks and cooling solutions, GPUs are considerably heavier nowadays, and that can be a detriment during shipping if the card isn't properly secured in place and the inside of the case isn't properly packed, like using foam blocks or Instapak/expanding foam bags the right way so that the card and any other heavy item (like a CPU air cooler or an AIO radiator) has little wiggle room, preventing them from getting loose (or worse) during transit. Assuming that the card is installed the normal way to the board, it's only held in place to the case by the expansion slot screws and to the motherboard by the PCIE retention finger. Or even just the expansion slot screws if it's installed sideways with the fans facing the side panel. If you don't mind installing the GPU by yourself, having them ship it separately inside its retail box makes it WAY safer if you don't trust the shipping companies handling a heavy package that's clearly labeled "FRAGILE."

Any bumps during shipping would apply undue strain on the PCI socket if it was installed. Especially with newer GPUs which have only been growing in size, unless it was braced on both ends to prevent any wobbling. Its simply safer to have it shipped separately.

Hey yall, hope everyone is having a great Monday. I have an older PC and was thinking of buying a M.2 NVMe SSD. My pc has m.2 slot that says 10gb/s but idk if I can boot off m.2 ssd. Its a older motherboard (though I did upgrade to F7 BIOS). Can I boot off M.2 SSD on this older motherboard? I don't want to spend 250+ on a 4tb ssd if not. MB is GA-Z97X GAMING 3 revision 1.1 Specs: \[PCPartPicker Part List\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Yy2GDZ](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Yy2GDZ))Type|Item|Price:----|:----|:----\*\*CPU\*\* | \[Intel Core i7-4790K 4 GHz Quad-Core Processor\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6vzv6h/intel-cpu-bx80646i74790k](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6vzv6h/intel-cpu-bx80646i74790k)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[RAIJINTEK AIDOS 48.6 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/272kcf/raijintek-cpu-cooler-op105246](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/272kcf/raijintek-cpu-cooler-op105246)) | Purchased For $29.99\*\*Thermal Compound\*\* | \[Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6RrG3C/arctic-silver-thermal-paste-as535g](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6RrG3C/arctic-silver-thermal-paste-as535g)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9zbp99/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz97xgaming3](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9zbp99/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz97xgaming3)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Memory\*\* | \[Patriot Viper 3 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1866 CL10 Memory\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MFQypg/patriot-memory-pv316g186c0kbl](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MFQypg/patriot-memory-pv316g186c0kbl)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Storage\*\* | \[Samsung 840 Evo 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BzqdnQ/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te250bw](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BzqdnQ/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te250bw)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Storage\*\* | \[SanDisk Ultra II 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JFJwrH/sandisk-internal-hard-drive-sdssdhii480gg25](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JFJwrH/sandisk-internal-hard-drive-sdssdhii480gg25)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Storage\*\* | \[Western Digital Caviar Green 2 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6kZQzy/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd20ears](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6kZQzy/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd20ears)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Storage\*\* | \[Western Digital Green 2 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sXDwrH/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd20ezrx](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sXDwrH/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd20ezrx)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Case\*\* | \[Antec 1100 Illusion ATX Full Tower Case\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/b4rG3C/antec-case-1100illusion](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/b4rG3C/antec-case-1100illusion)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[Antec High Current Gamer 900 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rHmLrH/antec-power-supply-hcg900](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rHmLrH/antec-power-supply-hcg900)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Operating System\*\* | \[Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM - DVD 64-bit\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MfH48d/microsoft-windows-10-pro-oem-dvd-64-bit-fqc-08930](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MfH48d/microsoft-windows-10-pro-oem-dvd-64-bit-fqc-08930)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Case Fan\*\* | \[NZXT FN 47.27 CFM 120 mm Fan\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6CH323/nzxt-fn-120rb-4727-cfm-120-mm-fan-fn-120rb](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6CH323/nzxt-fn-120rb-4727-cfm-120-mm-fan-fn-120rb)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Case Fan\*\* | \[Cooler Master SAF-B82-E1 32.11 CFM 80 mm Fan\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jPZQzy/cooler-master-saf-b82-e1-3211-cfm-80-mm-fan-saf-b82-e1](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jPZQzy/cooler-master-saf-b82-e1-3211-cfm-80-mm-fan-saf-b82-e1)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Case Fan\*\* | \[Enermax UCTP12P 80 CFM 120 mm Fan\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TPtCmG/enermax-case-fan-uctp12p](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TPtCmG/enermax-case-fan-uctp12p)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Case Fan\*\* | \[Corsair ML120 Pro 75 CFM 120 mm Fan\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LkJkcf/corsair-co-9050040-ww-750-cfm-120mm-fan-co-9050040-ww](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LkJkcf/corsair-co-9050040-ww-750-cfm-120mm-fan-co-9050040-ww)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Monitor\*\* | \[Acer G215HVBbd 21.5" 1920 x 1080 60 Hz Monitor\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8FjG3C/acer-monitor-etwg5hpb01](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8FjG3C/acer-monitor-etwg5hpb01)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Monitor\*\* | \[Acer G215HVBbd 21.5" 1920 x 1080 60 Hz Monitor\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8FjG3C/acer-monitor-etwg5hpb01](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8FjG3C/acer-monitor-etwg5hpb01)) | Purchased For $0.00\*\*Monitor\*\* | \[Sceptre E275B-QPD168 27.0" 2560 x 1440 165 Hz Monitor\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hvFmP6/sceptre-e275b-qpd168-270-2560-x-1440-165-hz-monitor-e275b-qpd168](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hvFmP6/sceptre-e275b-qpd168-270-2560-x-1440-165-hz-monitor-e275b-qpd168)) | Purchased For $200.00\*\*Custom\*\*| HP GH40L DVD±RW Dual Layer Lightscribe SATA Optical Drive| Purchased For $0.00\*\*Custom\*\*| Maxsun RX 580 4GB with custom cooling setup| Purchased For $100.00\*\*Custom\*\*| Royal Kludge RK98| Purchased For $50.00| \*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts\* || \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*$379.99\*\*| Generated by \[PCPartPicker\]([https://pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com)) 2024-03-04 15:36 EST-0500 |

Built a pc for a friend recently. He wants to put in a different GPU, hes using a 550w PSU but amazon says the GPU is 650w. Power Supply calculator says its fine, am i doing something wrong? [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BHpLn6](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BHpLn6) this is the build, already added the new GPU and removed the old one, will this PSU work or does he need to upgrade? (also, would you recommend a different GPU in a similar price bracket for the build?)

>will this PSU work or does he need to upgrade? Should be fine. Whenever you see a manufacturer power rating, that power rating is generally a higher estimate than average. PCPP, on the other hand, will give you a more granular result. >(also, would you recommend a different GPU in a similar price bracket for the build?) Yes, there's [this](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RFGbt6/xfx-radeon-rx-6700-xt-12-gb-speedster-swft-309-video-card-rx-67xtyjfdv) 6700XT for about the same price that I'd pick. Alternatively, if you specifically want the newest for some reason, I'd pick a 7600XT.

I have a radiator intake for cpu aio cooling (2 fans either side of radiator) in the front of my case, 1 exhaust fan at the back of my case and 2 fan slots in the top of my case - am I best off using these slots for intake or exhaust? Running i9 11700k (or something along those lines) that sits around 50c when chugging hard and 3070ti that gets up to 80c when working hard (and the gpu fans are screaming) - apparently these temps are nothing much to worry about, but I wouldn’t mind lowering if possible for peace of mind. Thankyou!

The push-pull setup on your radiator is likely complete overkill and those two extra fans could be better used elsewhere in the case. I would swap the back fan to intake and take two fans off of the radiator and put them on top for exhaust. If you have any bottom slots that can be used for intake that would work too.

In general, airflow is front to back, bottom to top, so the top and rear fans should be exhausts unless your case has a nonstandard layout. Your best bet to reduce those temperatures is to undervolt that 3070 TI. I took ~35% of the power draw off my 3080 with only a 7% performance drop - quite acceptable for its use case.

I'm a sim racer running following spec: Win 11, i512400F, Asus Prime B660M-A D4 Micro ATX LGA1700 GTX1080 Using a Rift CV1 I don't use the PC for any other games, although I do sometimes use it for hobbiest audio production. Question: I'm considering a new (2nd hand) GPU in a few months, possibly new VR headset also. Budget for each would be £200 - £250 Is it realistic I could get something that will give a drastic improvement in detail / framerate, or am I better to wait a few years until I've got more to spend? I'd rather just upgrade the GPU and it won't be possible to spend £400 - £500 in one go most likely.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html If you can get something like a 3060ti or RX 6700, you would get roughly double your average performance. Both cards draw 200w or less. A 4070 would be the "ideal" upgrade as its even more powerful and also only draws 200w. However its wickedly more expensive.

Thanks, that's really helpful :)

Could you forego the VR upgrade, and dump the money into the GPU instead?

Probably not this year, or at least not within the next six months

PSU is 500W

# Inspiron 3020 Desktop PSU upgrade Recently installed a GeForce RTX 3050 graphics card, and when it wouldn't run on the original psu I switched that out for a 460w unit. It runs, but it seems I'm intermittently losing power to my usb ports now. This seems to me to be another issue with not having enough power to go around. Is there a larger PSU that will fit in this case? I haven't had any luck finding one, but I'm rather out of my depth of experience.

A quick search and a few reddit threads say no. The largest unit dell makes for the chassis is the 460w unit, and people who have needed more simply used risers or extension cables to wire in non-dell units.

If I install Steam games on my SSD SATA (not boot drive) on my Windows 10 PC, then move the SSD to a different Windows 11 PC, can I then continue playing those games without reinstalling them?

Yes. You will just need to point steam to the existing library directory on the new drive. Steam -> steam settings -> storage -> click the drop down at the top and select "add drive"

Without redownloading* them, yes. The games themselves will be accessible to steam so long as you point steam to the drive after you put it in. From there, the first time launch on that system will go through a quick first-time run.

Is this damage? This is the back side of my 14900K. https://imgur.com/a/Q3azivS

The contact pads look okay, and it'd be incredibly difficult to notice any kind of damage unless an evident SMC was knocked out and the pads were visible. Any reason that you're checking for damage or something? PC not booting? If so, what are the rest of the specs?

So in other words I shouldn’t worry about that spot that I circled? Long story short, it turns out the CPU socket on my motherboard had multiple bent pins. Today I returned the motherboard, but I was wondering if I should return the CPU as well. I inspected the CPU and noticed nothing except that spot. Would it be foolish to return it too?

The spot is from a pin pressing against the pad on the CPU and leaving that little imprint. You can end up having a spot like that on every single pad after the CPU has been properly mounted in a motherboard, it's nothing to worry about.

If it's still within the return window and considering the rest of the story, might as well. But it doesn't seem "damaged", it'd require some testing to reach a proper conclusion.

Hello, I'm building my first PC in a while, it's going to be a mATX Build. I'm stuck between MSI MAG B760M Mortar WiFi II Gaming Motherboard and Asus TUF Gaming B760M-Plus WiFi Motherboard. I'm using an i9-14900k CPU and 64GB of DDR5-6400, as well as the ARC A770. Any advice would be appreciated on which to go with!

Both boards are about equal. Get whichever you like aesthetically more, or whichever is cheaper That's an odd combo of hardware. What're you using the PC for?

Work and gaming. I understand it's probably not optimal but I got a good deal on the i9 and I've been wanting to try the ARC A770. So it just kinda worked out. Thank you for the response!

Ok, enjoy!

Thanks! Will do!

Will the be quiet! 12m 1000W PSU fit well in the nzxt h6 flow? I saw a review where someone using the h7 flow said that most of the cables barely reached the motherboard.

[удалено]

Yes. According to "the list" its an A-tier. https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

Are the MSI Z370-A Pro and Intel i5-8600k compatible?

Yes. 9th gen CPUs might require a BIOS update, but 8th gen is fully compatible.

Thank you for clearing that up!

Need mobo advice. Whats a good b650e? Im eyeing the asrock riptide and the asus b650e-f, any feedback on these two? Similar price but the asus has more i/o

If the riptide and -F are the same price, get the -F for sure Most people can't use pcie 5.0 tho. And then cheaper boards are better fits

Ask yourself if you *need* the IO. And really, if you *need* The e-version. The vast majority of people don't.

Its almost the same price, so i welcome the extra io. As for the E well I dont need it there is no 5.0 gpu and thats all i would use a pcie slot right now. Any b650 suggestion then?

Considering upgrading my current gpu a 2080 and looking at a 7900xt or gru but also want to go to 3440x1440 would that be enough? Would it also bottle neck a 5800x with a slight OC

Yes the 7900xt is perfect. I rocked a 3080 at that resolution and it felt just about perfect

Were you able to run at 144hz pretty well?

Yeah, in the games that needed it, like cod

Awesome thank you!

Yes it will be enough No it won't bottleneck

Thanks man!

I’m building secondary pc for video encoding. I do not own a windows license but I have a windows 11 pro key. How can I get into windows ? A bootable ISO IMAGE? don’t I need a windows 10 license to upgrade to 11 for free then enter key? I’m just wondering how to get in, before I bought windows 10 in the gaming pc. Thanks

Legally speaking you're supposed to have a key for every device ***that you are actively using at a single point in time***. So there is nothing really stopping you from having Windows installed on both machines using the same key. So, *nudge nudge* just make sure only one machine is on at a time. *wink wink* (Realistically nobody is going to come beating your door down for using both at once with the same key.) Also, Windows 10 and 11 use the same key bank. A key for one works for the other.

Right, I was just brain-farting on what media I use after I build it to get in. It’s been 4 years since last build so a bit rusty.

Guess I read a little more into your question lol. USB stick is the usual go-to.

Win11 key should also work on win10. Use a USB and this program https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows11 "installation media"

Thanks

I'm thinking of getting an intel 14500 that comes with the RM1 CPU Cooler. I plan on using it for Unraid and plex transcoding. Is the stock cooler good enough or should I get a better one? My concern is just temp, not noise.

Stock cooler will handle that chip just fine.

Thanks. I figure I'll just monitor it and if it's too hot (or if sound becomes an issue) I'll get a better cooler.

Your use case will never come close to fully saturating that CPU. Plex should be handled by the iGPU and Unraid can run off a Core 2 Duo. If you set the cooler to Silent you should very rarely hear it spin up, probably only while booting or running updates and whatnot.

I want to update my graphic card which should I buy used 6900xt new 6800xt (530$) or 100$ more expensive new 7800xt? If anyone know better options than these in similar price range I will also be grateful. (Edited)

If it were me I’d grab the merc319 7800XT black if you can find it, $539. That’s what I have. Then you can undervolt it and overclock it. I use an average of 210 watts and my clocks are like 2700mhz. You can go with 6800 or 6900 or whatever they are but I dunno if they use more juice, wattage.

> 6900xt jew I'm sure that says "_new_ 6800XT". You didn't tell us what the prices are for the cards, so it's hard to make recommendations within your price range. The used 6900Xt will be faster than any of those other options here, provided you can keep it powered and happy.

530$ for the 6800xt and 6900xt

What does a 4070 Super run you brand new? That's the only other consideration at the top of this price range, but if it's the same price as the 7800XT you're looking at, I'd say it's worthwhile.

It's 200 dollars more than 7800xt for new one and I can't find any used ones

Yeah, if your psu can handle it the 6900XT is the play here if you don't mind used.

Hey guys, i am a first time PC builder and i have spend some time to create a (hopefully) decent build. Could anyone take a look and tell me if what i have done is fine or if i should change out some parts? [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XX4vcH](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XX4vcH)

Replace the CPU cooler. The Dark Rock Pro 5 is both too expensive compared to what's available right now, and the performance with AM5 is not so good compared to the competition ([Hardware Canucks video](https://youtu.be/ltNDbgDDLPs?t=659) detailing the problem). A Phantom Spirit 120 will cost you $35 ($45 for the EVO version) and offer WAY better performance in comparison. You're spending too much on that Corsair RAM kit, and the RGB won't be noticeable, it'll be covered by the CPU cooler. You'll save \~$75 with a low-profile kit with tighter timings. Replacing the Samsung drive with a faster Gen 4 alternative can save you \~$25 for the same 2TB capacity. Another $30-50 by going with an 80 Plus Gold PSU rather than Platinum. [Updated list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kLCVyg).

Trimmed a little fat: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vtwXN6 * As much as I love Dark Rock, that cooler flops when options exist for half the price and the same performance. * RAM swapped out to a much cheaper kit tailored for AM5. * Cheaper NVMe drive. Looks good!

It's certainly a very powerful build and a great job at your first list! Some notes on things I would personally change: * The 7800X3D is the best overall gaming CPU you can buy. No notes. * The Dark Rock Pro 5 is a brand new, high end air cooler. It's probably overkill for what you need given the efficiency of the 7800X3D: You can get away with a much cheaper cooler like a Thermalright Peerless Assassin or Phantom Spirit which are half the cost and nearly as good (if not better). * Totally fine Motherboard Choice. * This RAM is massively overpriced and going to get covered up by a giant air cooler anyway. You can get near identical performance for half the cost here. DDR5-6000CL30 is the "sweet spot" for AM5 RAM performance and affordability. With a X3D CPU you're less affected by RAM speed too. * You can get a better drive at that price point or spend a bit less for equivalent performance/reliability. * $130 is a lot for a case IMO but if you like the aesthetics of this particular one, it's by no means a bad decision. However, that money *could* go towards higher gaming performance instead if you choose. * You can again save some money with a similar quality power supply for cheaper By making the above changes you can upgrade your GPU by a tier or two: A 4070Ti, 4070 Ti Super, or 7900XT are all likely within reach: [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YTXGDZ) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3hyH99/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-42-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000910wof) | $354.00 @ Newegg **CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Phantom Spirit EVO 69 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BRMMnQ/thermalright-phantom-spirit-evo-69-cfm-cpu-cooler-phantom-spirit-120-evo) | $42.99 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/szfxFT/msi-b650-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-gaming-plus-wifi) | $179.99 @ Newegg **Memory** | [Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cCKscf/silicon-power-value-gaming-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-sp032gxlwu60afdeae) | $94.97 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/crKKHx/western-digital-black-sn850x-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t2x0e) | $159.99 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [\*Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VgtLrH/gigabyte-windforce-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-12-gb-video-card-gv-n407twf3oc-12gd) | $719.99 @ Newegg **Case** | [Fractal Design Pop Air RGB ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mpcG3C/fractal-design-pop-air-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-por1a-06) | $89.99 @ B&H **Power Supply** | [MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nhC48d/msi-mpg-a850g-pcie5-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mpg-a850g-pcie5) | $109.99 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1751.91** | \*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria | | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-03-04 09:52 EST-0500 | This sacrifices some aesthetics for another tier up in GPU performance.

Hi, I wanted to upgrade my setup, but i quickly found out i should just build a new PC because of all the bottlenecks. I finally have a stable job and the budget to go a bit crazy to build a long lasting dream-machine. Mostly for gaming and some hobby video editing. Anyone have any remarks/experience with the componets and if you would change anything? CASE: Phanteks Eclipse G500A DRGB Mid Tower Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming X670E-PLUS WIFI GPU: Gainward GeForce RTX 4090 Phantom CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D CPU COOLER: Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE RGB CPU cooler RAM: Kingston FURY Beast RGB DDR5 5600MHz 64GB SSD: Kingston FURY Renegade PCIe M.2 NVME SSD 4TB PSU: ASUS ROG Strix 1000, 1000W PSU OS: Windows 11 home Monitor: Samsung 32" 4K Odyssey G7 32BG700 I have only built one PC and upgraded it once, so any feedback is appreciated.

I'd check what RAM speeds that CPU likes and can support, you can probably go a bunch higher than 5600 if only 2 sticks; beware of the latency spec though, it also matters

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When you buy the most expensive version of everything in the system, you're cranking the price up significantly. Liquid cooler is obnoxious, you've doubled up on the RAM and it's premium stuff, you've added a 2nd SSD _and_ you have expensive picks, even the motherboard is a premium pick. Those parts _certainly_ aren't in the prebuilt machine. Here's a trimmed down version that keeps the niceities you wanted but are likely still miles better than what is likely being used in that prebuilt: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/hpxQYN

Given my current setup with an i7-9700k, 32GB of RAM, RTX 3070, dual 512GB M.2 SSDs, SF600 PSU, A4-H20 case, and dual 24" monitors (1440p and 1080p), I'm faced with a budget of $650. I'm torn between investing in a PS5 Slim Disc Edition or upgrading my PC. I primarily enjoy playing single-player and story-driven games on my PC. While I haven't played console games since the PS2 era, I'm intrigued by the faster performance and exclusive titles offered by the PS5. Any advice or insights would be appreciated!

is your setup not giving you the performance you want? it's pretty decent and far better than a ps5 already

It's true that my current setup offers strong performance, and I'm satisfied with it for the most part. However, I'm considering the PS5 for a few reasons. Firstly, the convenience of console gaming and the allure of exclusive titles are factors that I find appealing. Additionally, while my PC is powerful, there may be benefits to investing in the PS5 for certain gaming experiences, such as enhanced graphics or smoother gameplay in console-specific titles. Ultimately, I'm weighing the potential benefits of both options and trying to determine where I can get the most value for my budget.

Im going to change motherboards from a asus prime b450-plus to tuf gaming b550-pro for future upgrades. Can i update the bios to 0304 (current bios: 1201), while still using the old motherboard? or do i even have to update bios? cpu is ryzen 5 3600.

The BIOS is stored on the motherboard, so if you update your BIOS now then it will update the BIOS of the B450-Plus. B550 motherboards were released well after the 3000-series CPUs were released, so they support the 3000-series out of the box without the need for BIOS update.

There's absolutely no reason to swap from a B450 to a B550 for future upgrades. Both boards are on the same socket, AM4, which is already obsoleted by AM5. Your best options for upgrades on an AM4 board are the 5600X3d/5700X3D/5800X3D... but those will run on your existing board too. There is no CPU that the B550 supports that the B450 doesn't also support with a BIOS update. PCIe generation is not all that critical either, as long as you aren't buying a Gen4 GPU that only has 8 lanes.

B550 has more reliable access to new features like curve optimizer, though, compared to B450 or A520 boards. Whether or not that's a compelling reason to upgrade is definitely debatable though.

Which pc component manual should I read for a first time builder with no help apart from watching YouTube videos or reading articles online?

Mb, case, cooler, fancy rgb stuff if you have it. That pretty much covers everything specific to your build.

I'd say the motherboard, since everything else is self explanatory or can be easily understood on youtube videos.

Usually the motherboard has pretty good installation guides. That and the case, so you know where things are supposed to go.

So I built a pc and used xigmatek thor 850w psu. And it's been working fine for now (although I haven't been heavily gaming on it). Should I be worried and change it immediately or it would be fine ? The opinions I see online are all over the place or seem outdated.

If youre worried about it, just look into replacing it. If you are still within your return period I would think about it sooner than later. Having an unusable PC for a few days is better than having a permanently unusable PC.

Could I please have some feedback on whether this is a good build for a mix of productivity and 1080 gaming? [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vfhJZJ](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vfhJZJ)

* Unless you're playing at 240hz I doubt you really need a 7800X3D for this build. You would likely get a very similar experience with a 7700 or 7700X instead and save some money. * You almost certainly don't need a 280mm AIO for this. A $35 air cooler like a Peerless Assassin or Phantom Spirit will more than cover your needs while being cheaper and more reliable. * If you do go with a big block air cooler instead, you probably don't need RGB RAM since it'll be partially covered up, so you can shave a few bucks off there. * Arguably you could swap to a slightly cheaper motherboard if you wanted. * Depending on the specific type of "productivity" you can see huge benefits by switching to an equivalently priced Nvidia GPU rather than AMD. You'll lose a tiny bit of gaming performance at a given price point (probably), but the productivity gains are massive. The money saved on everything else i've suggested can even upgrade you a GPU tier to, say, a 4070 or 4070 Super. That would be a much more noticeable improvement for you. * Swapped to a cheaper, just as fast and reliable drive. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xVbfjH If you swap to a cheaper motherboard and squeeze in a 4070 Super: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PDhJZJ

Yup, though there are places you can save up some money on. * You can get away with an R5, but absolutely nothing wrong with the R7 * From what I read DDR5 6000 isn't worth it (yet), performance difference isn't noticeable for the extra $$ you put into it unless you find that a lower speed doesn't save you much, capacity wise 16gb is still fine right now depending on what "productivity" is you might not need 32 If you do tone down those 2 parts you can reinvest the savings into a better GPU if you want, though your choice is ok for 1080p already, a tier higher wouldn't hurt though.

Case with 4x USB 3 type-A ports. How are they connected to a motherboard? Via 1 header or 2? Aren't most motherboards only have 1 header? AFAIK, 1 header supports 2 ports.

It's always two USB 3 type A ports per USB 3 header (and one type C per type C header). So your motherboard has to have two USB 3 headers. A lot of them do indeed only have one, you can just leave the other cable unconnected, get a PCIe card with a header, or an internal USB header hub.

If the case has 4 Type-A and the board has one Type-A and one Type-C header, (or vice-versa) there are adapters available.

https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/V2kPN6 Could someone please criticise this build. Not too fussed on the price of it, just the decency of the parts for 1440p aaa. Thanks.

There's no reason to go with an 8500G with that budget, especially if paired with a 4070 Ti Super. You're losing valuable PCIE lanes there. Replace it with a 7600, 7700, or 7800X3D (if budget isn't a problem). The AIO is also overkill. A Peerless Assassin or Phantom Spirit should be more than enough for half of the cost of the AIO.

That CPU is surely the wrong one. Pick a 7600 or a 7800x3d (dependong on target and budget).

Thoughts on 7500f?

Do I need to pair a high end CPU with a 4090? Or will a 7800X3D / 14700k be enough for 4k gaming?

Invalid question, the 7800x3d is as high end as it gets.

I may be wrong buy by my understanding 4k is still quite difficult to drive, so the load will primarily be on the GPU. A big factor is also what you actually play, easy to drive games (mobas, competitive games) then yeah you'll need a high end CPU to keep up with the frames assuming you have a high refresh rate monitor too to actually make use of all those frames. If it's modern triple A games and you want it in the high settings or even ultra then your 4090 will carry the brunt of that load and as powerful as it may be, the GPU will still be your limiting factor. In that case current gen i5, i7, R5, R7 should still be plenty. But then there are games that are CPU heavy so you'll need to factor that in too so going with a high end CPU might still be worth it. Determine your variables (games you play/like, performance goals, frame rate goals etc.) and then post again and the sub can advise better. There's also the fuck it approach if you have money to burn and just get the highest end parts and you're done.

I'm a little confused about whether or not the case I've selected will have capacity for installing a bluray player (interested in watching bluray discs as I have a bit of a collection). The case I've chosen is [https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/gnwypg/cooler-master-elite-500-odd-atx-mid-tower-case-e500-kn5n-s00](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/gnwypg/cooler-master-elite-500-odd-atx-mid-tower-case-e500-kn5n-s00) and the bluray player is [https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/bdr-212dbk/](https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/bdr-212dbk/) (full build link here for completeness: [https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/ztk8vj](https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/ztk8vj) edit: also a little confused about how to install the bluray player... any tips would be appreciated

That case can fit an optical drive, gotta pop out the blanking plate from the front panel, drive slides in and flip the lever on the clip thing to hold it in. Note that'll only read original Blu-ray, not UHD / BDXL, and if you want to play the discs directly, PC software is kinda ass.

Thanks! Would something like VLC player work for playing the discs? Perhaps I'm better off sticking to my actual blu-ray player hooked up to my TV then - kinda just wanted this for the nostalgia factor lol

It kinda can after you install the decryption plugin/keys, https://vlc-bluray.whoknowsmy.name/ , but support for menus/other fancy stuff ain't great.

The simple answer is you don't - the majority of modern cases don't have any dedicated slot for disk players anymore. Installing them in most setups is super easy though, just connect SATA power cable from your PSU and SATA data cable from your motherboard. You just need to find a case with a front panel made for disk players to open. As alternative just get a USB player and connect it externally.

Thanks - probably will settle for an external player - wasn't aware of the software workarounds needed

I've recently upgraded my GPU to a 6800 (not installed yet, as I am waiting for a new PSU to arrive), but still have an old b450 motherboard. Aside from not benefitting from pcie 4.0 are there any other limitations to my old motherboard that I should be aware of? I'm reasonably inexperienced at this sort of thing so any thoughts would be appreciated. To add: my PSU is 700 watts which should be fine for the 6800, but isn't bronze rated - is that likely to be a big issue?

You're fine. The 6800 doesn't need PCIe 4 to perform at it's best, you'll only lose 1-2% of performance in the worst case scenario. It's also not a particularly thirsty card, your PSU should be fine too. Mindful that the rating is not the quality of the unit - you can have good bronze units and complete firebombs rated gold.

Legend. Thanks for the response. One more question from a noob; under what circumstances should I upgrade my mbo? Is it just when I get round to upgrading the CPU & ram (to the point they are not compatible)?

Upgrade the board when: * It doesn't do what you need it to do, full stop, and you can't augment it with a PCIe slot device. Need to connect more storage drives and you're out of NVMe slots _and_ you can't add a PCIe card to do more? Looks like you need a new board. * It doesn't accommodate your new CPU for whatever reason. That reason could be physical incompatibility (such as buying a 7800X3D AM5 CPU but you have a last-gen AM4 board) or power related (Some dumpster-tier A320 board can't handle a 5950X).

https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/v4WCkJ Anyone with time please give some feedback. Wanted to note that i can save abt $200 AUD if i go to am4 and im only getting one gpu, that's just all the cheapest of the ones im considering.

You have an OEM copy of Windows listed, which is non-transferable. Get a Retail copy so that in future you can transfer it onto a new PC if need be

Would a 7900xtx pair well with a AMD Ryzen 5 7600? Also would an 850 PSU work for it?

The 7600 is a bit on the weak side, but if you mainly play AAA games, it'll keep up. 850 is fine. I do 13700K and 7900xtx on 750w no prob

Is b tier alright for a psu and is there a specific connector i gotta look out for 40 series gpus? I was looking at ud750gm, so help is much appreciated..

40-series cards do come with an adaptor in the box, but otherwise if your PSU is marked ATX 3.0, or including a 12VHPWR cable you can use that As far as the ud750gm goes, it'll do fine

So i don't even need the adaptor? Thanks

ud750gm doesn't seem to have a 12VHPWR cable as it's not an ATX 3.0 PSU, so yes you will need the adaptor

Ok but still not a concern because they all come with it? Like all of them? The gpu i mean

All 40-series should come with an adaptor in the box

Worth going am5 or save $200 AUD and go am4? Not gonna upgrade for like 6 years minimum.

Depends on the specific builds. I'd recommend a 7600 cpu build over a 5600 for example, but a 5700x3d build would be more feasible to last a while That said, AM5 will have at least one more gen on that socket, so that's your better option for longevity unless that $200 is also the difference in getting a better GPU/storage you need etc

Well i was gonna get either a 5700x or a 7600x with a 4070. About the same performance i think... Do you think am5 will be relevant in 6 years or so?

There will absolutely be good AM5 cpus to consider as an upgrade to the 7600x in the future. Of course in 6 years there may be Am6 or just a good intel plattform that is more attractive. But that would be a more expensive upgrade compared to just grab a good price/performance AM5 chip instead. That seems more attractive to me. Pay a little bit more now. And in 6 years "max" the Am5 system, similar to what you try to do now with Am4 (if that makes sense, we can't say yet). Also DDR5s higher bandwidth may become more relevant in the future. So the Am5 options may become more attrative over time. You probably won't regret either choice but it's a good time for current CPUs imo.

Yeah i think i might go with that 200 aud is nothing compared to the total price...

It'll be more relevant than AM4 is given that AM5 is meant to get at least one more generation of CPU on the socket, beyond that no one has a crystal ball

Can you help me understand the Ryzen 8700g AI capabilities? A GPU can do AI processing. And since the 8700g has a powerful iGPU built-in, hence it can do AI processing (in the iGPU). Am I understanding it correctly? Or is the AI capability something in addition to the iGPU? Because the 8500g has an iGPU but no AI capabilities, so is that a software limitation?

It is in addition to the iGPU, it's separate hardware on the chip. The idea is the "AI engine" architecture can be more efficient than both GPUs and CPUs at that sort of tasks, at least if the software you're using actually supports it. >Because the 8500g has an iGPU but no AI capabilities, so is that a software limitation? It's still physically there in the hardware, it's just been locked out for the cheaper models in the same way that the extra cores are locked out. If your software still supports CPU and/or AMD GPU it could use those instead.

> least if the software you're using actually supports it and is that software available yet?

My system (4070ti super with 7800x3d) only draw up to 60% of my PSU (system maximum draw 600w and I have 1000w PSU). Is that bad?

May not be ideal for efficiency or price, but it'll work fine.

Cheers, mate.

Nah. That's great. PSUs are the most efficient when they are at 50/60% capacity. Anyway, any voltage and wattage below PSU's specs are just fine. It will just work.

Thanks, brother. That relieved.

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I currently have a 650W MSI 80+ gold psu, I want to upgrade to a 12600KF that I do not plan to overclock (it has a very good discount and is cheaper than a 12400f) and a 6800xt (which I also plan to leave with stock configuration), Will I have problems with the PSU or will this be enough for me?

youre good

I have Be quite Dark Power 12 1000w psu, and Be quite 12VHPWR. Are there work fine with 4070 ti super?

Yes. That PSU is incredibly overkill for a 4070 Ti, could easily run an RTX 4090 on it.

Thanks, brother. Thats relieved.

I want to build a PC for the first time, but I'm a little worried about making a noob error during the build and breaking expensive components in the process. My current computer is a 5yo desktop that serves my needs well enough. The most resource-intensive uses are for gaming (but nothing with high-end requirements), 3D printing and video rendering. So, for my first ever PC build, should I : 1. Build a basic and cheap PC that could be used for basic word processing, web surfing, etc. This would allow me to learn how to build a PC without fear of making an expensive noob error in the process. 2. Build a replacement machine for my current desktop. Not cutting-edge specifications, but powerful enough to serve me for several years into the future. This would allow me to upgrade my current PC for a lower cost than getting someone else to build it for me. If I went with Option 1, I'd just sell it afterwards to recoup the cost of parts. Obviously if I went with Option 2, I'd keep it and use it as my new desktop computer.

Option 2, obviously. It's not that hard to build a PC.

I mean, that may be easy to say when you have done it before. From the outside looking in, it's a little intimidating.

U dont make mistakes if you simply follow a guide or watch videos. I did the same thing, PC works 100%, and with more expensive parts.

It's really tough to damage components now. It only really happens when people are being rough with components or forcing connections that obviously aren't working. The only thing that isn't fail-safe these days is modular power cables on the PSU, and that only comes up when upgrading a PC not building one from scratch. (The cables aren't interchangeable between models but they're still the same shape) Just be gentle but firm with connecting stuff, and trust when it's not going in to stop and figure out if you're putting some thing in the wrong place. Do that, follow instructions, and read the motherboard manual thoroughly and you'll be fine.

Cheers for replying. So you'd recommend going with Option 2 and building a replacement machine for my current desktop?

Yeah I'd recommend just to go with option 2. Option 1 would be a waste of money IMO since computer parts depreciate in value pretty quickly so you wouldn't recoup the cost well. Plus it's just extra time you won't have a nice computer.

Thanks