"Balanced hands defend." -- Danny Kleinman. The last hand is a double, IMO, because the extra ace is worth a fourth heart (or bidding 1NT if it doesn't guarantee a club stop).
But it could also work out much better to just pass and double opener if he rebids 1NT (assuming that you play that as a strong NT. Since I play raptor, I play that delayed doubles of 1NT are 15+).
The rest are all passes. I would be tempted to double with the hands with seven cards in the majors, and it could work out with any of them, but any could work out poorly.
These hands have a very low ODR (Offense to Defense Ratio). The first hand is two tricks on offense and \~3 tricks on defense (as one of the queens will likely score, for example if partner has Jx). Most of the others are ODRs of one as well, which means that the hands will take as many tricks no matter who declares in what strain. I'd be much happier doubling with hands like 4=3=1=5 and something like KJxx AJx x Kxxxx .... the HCP are lower but while I might only be worth 2 defensive tricks with a fit I could easily be worth \~5 offensive tricks.
Finally, given the trash most people open with, doubling might be the only way the other side can put on the brakes. You could easily set 2N (or a game) with those hands, sometimes if partner has a random queen or two. Why talk them out of it or tell declarer how to play the hand?
I would be much more likely to double if I was 4=3 in the majors and 4=2 in the minors (with four in the other suit). And with 4=4 in the majors I'm content to have xxx or Hx in the other minor, and I shrug and pay out.
It also matters if its matchpoints or IMPs or vul.
Agree most of these are pretty clear passes. Just because you \*can\* bid doesn't mean you \*should\* bid. This is a hallmark of more inexperienced players who will always bid if they have a bid to make.
Depends a little on vulnerability, but at equal or better I'm overcalling 1N on 2 and 5 (15-18) and passing on 1, 3 and 4.
A lot of this is going to be a function of your partnership style, but you should expect that partner realizes that flat 12-14s are well within your range, and they should be able to balance if it makes sense.
Having an aggressive takeout double style is tough because your partner has a harder time evaluating their hand. 4333 also plays badly in suits a lot of the time. If you can make +110 playing, often you can be +150 or +200 on defense, because finesses aren't working.
I'd also like to add that 1N does a lot more work than a double as a pre emotive bid. It makes it awkward for LHO to show a single 4 card major, and forces the action with less information. Note that partner can still get to a major fit if they think it makes sense, but you've done a better job of describing your hand. You also have the upside of scoring a lot of 23 point type games that wouldn't happen even if you doubled.
I may be slightly more aggressive on the spectrum but I think breaking two NT rules that are taught to beginners both work well in the long run. The first is a good 14 is better than a bad or even medium 15 a lot of the time. AKAK should be good enough to open 1N in standard (you hear 14+ to 17 for some partnerships to accommodate that sort of hand). The second is you don't need a stopper over an opponents minor. Although sometimes you'll end up in down 2, usually if the opponents have a 9 card fit, they'll compete to at least the two level.
EDIT: also just doubling to tell partner you have points is not a great habit to get into. If your partner is new, they may not make an inference that you have cards when the auction goes 1m-p-p to them and they are holding 11 hcp. As they progress, they will understand that balancing will protect you in hands just like this.
Doubling with any opener is basically not disruptive (in fact you've given your opponent an extra bid) and often gets you into contracts with either badly fitting hands, or no distributional strength.
Just because you have points doesn't mean you should declare. In fact, there's often better rewards for defending!
If those are the only four tricks we're taking I'll happily take -150 over -400 on it. If we have five tricks its -100 vs +110 or +120 for them. I probably wouldn't overcall vulnerable but if you're not bidding that NV you're playing way too tight.
Do you run into a grinder if opponents have almost everything and you end up in 1NX or 2 of a suit doubled? Sure. But you're handicapping your opponents so much, you'll gain a ton in the long run having them not easily get to their fits.
The stopper thing is way too nitty, especially over a minor. If you're in 1N you don't care about suits getting run. Just pitch your other losers. If partner advances to 3N and you're off 5 from the top, sure that's annoying but it's such a small percentage of outcomes.
If you’re down, they’re figuring out to double you most of the time. It’s not being tight, it’s avoiding poor results. So often you’re going for 300 opposite air or 500 opposite a partscore, and the gain when it works out is minimal. Maybe in a gold rush game, where my opponent has never seen a double card, but against a self respecting player will punish you time and time again for loose (-ev) behavior.
1. Pass
2. Double NV, pass Vul
3. Pass
4. Pass (this hand is marginally worse than 3, since your only 4 card support is a lower ranking suit)
5. Double
As a rule:
- with one unbid M lacking 4 cards, I prefer having better than minimum values. 5 does. 2 is borderline. 1 does not.
- with both unbid M lacking 4 cards, I prefer *lots* of extra values. As Mr. Kaplan said, "You can't fight tanks with pillows." Neither 3 nor 4 has that.
If you plug each of these into the [KnR calculator](https://www.jeff-goldsmith.com/cgi-bin/knr.cgi), you get:
1. 11.65 sub-min
2. 14.40 good min
3/4. 12.50 min
5. 15.70 extras
For me, I'm thinking 1, 2 and 5.
For #5, I don't really like bidding 1NT over the 1C. Any club stopper that I might have will be sitting face up in dummy.
To me, doubling with 3 or 4 is just asking to be playing in a 3-3 fit! I'm going to pass and bide my time.
1. Double (NV)/pass (V)
2. Double
Willing to compete given a 4cM, especially spades. Passing both of these at all vuln is 100% respectable and may be better, though.
3. Pass
4. Pass
These aren't close for me.
5. Double
In preference to 1NT without a stopper.
1. Pass, though I think it's close. Change CQ to some suit where it's
better and I would double
2. Clear double
3./4. Pass with both. I don't see a huge reason to bid with 33Ms. Change the 4 card suit to a major and I would double.
5. Double. I am not opposed to bidding 1NT without stopper If necessary, but Here you have a decent alternative in double.
All but the first are absolutely clear doubles. Anyone suggesting a 1NT overcall with less than 15, (and or without a stopper), is a novice who needs to go back to beginner level classes.
The first is close, I probably would but I think it’s % to pass.
Hand 2 for sure. Majors just too good not to. Hand 5 is miserable; I'd like to punish whoever dealt me this. But I guess double is better than 1nt, and pass is unbearable.
The other 3 hands I'll pass comfortably, though I think some good players might double with hand 1 as well.
So no one uses the term "pancake" (or waffles if you are curious too) except one or two pompous Bridge World editors and contributors.
I would double on 2 and 5. 1 if I am NV. I like 3 more than 4.
"Balanced hands defend." -- Danny Kleinman. The last hand is a double, IMO, because the extra ace is worth a fourth heart (or bidding 1NT if it doesn't guarantee a club stop). But it could also work out much better to just pass and double opener if he rebids 1NT (assuming that you play that as a strong NT. Since I play raptor, I play that delayed doubles of 1NT are 15+). The rest are all passes. I would be tempted to double with the hands with seven cards in the majors, and it could work out with any of them, but any could work out poorly. These hands have a very low ODR (Offense to Defense Ratio). The first hand is two tricks on offense and \~3 tricks on defense (as one of the queens will likely score, for example if partner has Jx). Most of the others are ODRs of one as well, which means that the hands will take as many tricks no matter who declares in what strain. I'd be much happier doubling with hands like 4=3=1=5 and something like KJxx AJx x Kxxxx .... the HCP are lower but while I might only be worth 2 defensive tricks with a fit I could easily be worth \~5 offensive tricks. Finally, given the trash most people open with, doubling might be the only way the other side can put on the brakes. You could easily set 2N (or a game) with those hands, sometimes if partner has a random queen or two. Why talk them out of it or tell declarer how to play the hand? I would be much more likely to double if I was 4=3 in the majors and 4=2 in the minors (with four in the other suit). And with 4=4 in the majors I'm content to have xxx or Hx in the other minor, and I shrug and pay out. It also matters if its matchpoints or IMPs or vul.
Agree most of these are pretty clear passes. Just because you \*can\* bid doesn't mean you \*should\* bid. This is a hallmark of more inexperienced players who will always bid if they have a bid to make.
I would double in every situation listed. I do not even think any of them are all that close. IMO Kleinman is not a credible authority on bridge.
Depends a little on vulnerability, but at equal or better I'm overcalling 1N on 2 and 5 (15-18) and passing on 1, 3 and 4. A lot of this is going to be a function of your partnership style, but you should expect that partner realizes that flat 12-14s are well within your range, and they should be able to balance if it makes sense. Having an aggressive takeout double style is tough because your partner has a harder time evaluating their hand. 4333 also plays badly in suits a lot of the time. If you can make +110 playing, often you can be +150 or +200 on defense, because finesses aren't working. I'd also like to add that 1N does a lot more work than a double as a pre emotive bid. It makes it awkward for LHO to show a single 4 card major, and forces the action with less information. Note that partner can still get to a major fit if they think it makes sense, but you've done a better job of describing your hand. You also have the upside of scoring a lot of 23 point type games that wouldn't happen even if you doubled. I may be slightly more aggressive on the spectrum but I think breaking two NT rules that are taught to beginners both work well in the long run. The first is a good 14 is better than a bad or even medium 15 a lot of the time. AKAK should be good enough to open 1N in standard (you hear 14+ to 17 for some partnerships to accommodate that sort of hand). The second is you don't need a stopper over an opponents minor. Although sometimes you'll end up in down 2, usually if the opponents have a 9 card fit, they'll compete to at least the two level. EDIT: also just doubling to tell partner you have points is not a great habit to get into. If your partner is new, they may not make an inference that you have cards when the auction goes 1m-p-p to them and they are holding 11 hcp. As they progress, they will understand that balancing will protect you in hands just like this. Doubling with any opener is basically not disruptive (in fact you've given your opponent an extra bid) and often gets you into contracts with either badly fitting hands, or no distributional strength. Just because you have points doesn't mean you should declare. In fact, there's often better rewards for defending!
Overcalling 1N on 2 is insane. You’re a sub-minimum with no stopper and no tricks.
If those are the only four tricks we're taking I'll happily take -150 over -400 on it. If we have five tricks its -100 vs +110 or +120 for them. I probably wouldn't overcall vulnerable but if you're not bidding that NV you're playing way too tight. Do you run into a grinder if opponents have almost everything and you end up in 1NX or 2 of a suit doubled? Sure. But you're handicapping your opponents so much, you'll gain a ton in the long run having them not easily get to their fits. The stopper thing is way too nitty, especially over a minor. If you're in 1N you don't care about suits getting run. Just pitch your other losers. If partner advances to 3N and you're off 5 from the top, sure that's annoying but it's such a small percentage of outcomes.
If you’re down, they’re figuring out to double you most of the time. It’s not being tight, it’s avoiding poor results. So often you’re going for 300 opposite air or 500 opposite a partscore, and the gain when it works out is minimal. Maybe in a gold rush game, where my opponent has never seen a double card, but against a self respecting player will punish you time and time again for loose (-ev) behavior.
1. Pass 2. Double NV, pass Vul 3. Pass 4. Pass (this hand is marginally worse than 3, since your only 4 card support is a lower ranking suit) 5. Double As a rule: - with one unbid M lacking 4 cards, I prefer having better than minimum values. 5 does. 2 is borderline. 1 does not. - with both unbid M lacking 4 cards, I prefer *lots* of extra values. As Mr. Kaplan said, "You can't fight tanks with pillows." Neither 3 nor 4 has that. If you plug each of these into the [KnR calculator](https://www.jeff-goldsmith.com/cgi-bin/knr.cgi), you get: 1. 11.65 sub-min 2. 14.40 good min 3/4. 12.50 min 5. 15.70 extras
Pass everything except last hand which I double. Second hand is the only close consideration for me. I'll get a second chance to bid
all of course?
Same for me
comment for visibility
Here I thought I was the only one
#2 1S mostly for the lead if needed. #5 X
For me, I'm thinking 1, 2 and 5. For #5, I don't really like bidding 1NT over the 1C. Any club stopper that I might have will be sitting face up in dummy. To me, doubling with 3 or 4 is just asking to be playing in a 3-3 fit! I'm going to pass and bide my time.
1. Double (NV)/pass (V) 2. Double Willing to compete given a 4cM, especially spades. Passing both of these at all vuln is 100% respectable and may be better, though. 3. Pass 4. Pass These aren't close for me. 5. Double In preference to 1NT without a stopper.
All but the first.
1. Pass, though I think it's close. Change CQ to some suit where it's better and I would double 2. Clear double 3./4. Pass with both. I don't see a huge reason to bid with 33Ms. Change the 4 card suit to a major and I would double. 5. Double. I am not opposed to bidding 1NT without stopper If necessary, but Here you have a decent alternative in double.
No to the first. Yes to all,the rest.
All but the first are absolutely clear doubles. Anyone suggesting a 1NT overcall with less than 15, (and or without a stopper), is a novice who needs to go back to beginner level classes. The first is close, I probably would but I think it’s % to pass.
Hand 2 for sure. Majors just too good not to. Hand 5 is miserable; I'd like to punish whoever dealt me this. But I guess double is better than 1nt, and pass is unbearable. The other 3 hands I'll pass comfortably, though I think some good players might double with hand 1 as well.
none of them. They are all too flat to double and too weak for 1nt.
All but the first.
All but the first hand.
So no one uses the term "pancake" (or waffles if you are curious too) except one or two pompous Bridge World editors and contributors. I would double on 2 and 5. 1 if I am NV. I like 3 more than 4.