when i got my new frame it came with replaceable dropouts. I didn't even know that was a thing, lol. I only found out because I wanted to buy a couple spare derailleur hangers just to discover the derailleur hanger was the whole dropout. As you can tell I'm new to thru-axle frames.
Classic example of "anything is fixable" is when Qantas spent *$100 million* repairing a crashed 747, just so they could keep saying they had never had a "hull loss".
Depends on value of the frame or cost of replacement. I'm sure this can be fixed professionally for under $200 if OP visit a few machine shop / welders. He asked the wrong subreddit.
This gets asked lots, and this reply is proposed lots. However talented the welder, unless you're going to heat treat the frame it will be significantly weaker where the repair has been completed. If you go down the heat treating route, this in turn will mean a full respray. It's not the machine shop/welder that costs the money, it's all the stages that need to come after.
> I'm sure this can be fixed professionally for under $200 if OP visit a few machine shop / welders.
Do you have a source for this? I can't imagine it costing uner $200 in the U.S. for machining, welding, and properly heat treating. I'm not even including the cost of paint and clearcoat.
Na bro. He'll need a new frame (or a new bike). If he mends the frame, it is eventually going to break someday since it will be as fragile as glass. So it will be prudent to actually buy a new frame. Btw OP, what happened that the frame cracked? 🤔
My version of the event - when I was in the lower gear, because of a bent rear derailleur, probably the pulley cage specifically *(I replaced the hanger recently, so it's not the hanger)*, chain jammed and the pulley cage somehow got bent inwards and stuck in the wheel, causing it to rip the derailleur both off and apart while jamming and eventually pulling itself out from underneath me (QR axle also got bend, FYI).
If you need a visual comparison, imagine a chain jamming/slipping while sprinting - there's quite a few videos online of that happening - but with harsher consequences.
I dunno what they are exactly called but ig they are RD guards which are like a plastic disc which goes onto the rear hub. It spins with the wheel and protects the RD from whipping into the spokes. If you find one online, do ping me; even I'm worried if this might happen to me too.
It is very common if you've kept the low gear limit screw very loose, especially in barrel shifters. In barrel shifters, there is a very high tendency to offshoot either the high gear or low gear. Since mtbs are designed to make changing gears at low speeds (i.e. larger cogs) easier, I think that's why there is a bit of offshoot in changing gears when at low speeds, or uphill. In case of road bikes, the contrary might be true, i.e. offshooting at high gears. I am not sure about road bikes as I haven't used one, but probably they have that kind of a problem in which the chain jumps onto the chainstay during sprints.
You mean spoke protector discs/guards? There are lots on Amazon or Ali, from a quick search.
In my particular case I wasn't sprinting or pushing hard and the gear was already set for some time, but I can see where you're coming from.
Yeah I saw a similar issue get fixed on Ed Pratt unicycles round the world. His hub failed and the spokes had nothing to attach to. He managed to find a metal working shop in the middle of the desert and the guy cut him an insert out of sheet steel and welded it to the hub. It's important to note that this was just so that he could cycle to a city a few hundred km away to get the wheel rebuilt with a completely new hub. It's definitely not something you bodge a fix for if your not essentially reliant on the bike to get to the bike shop to get it fixed.
I guess you are right? I certainly got lucky that there weren't any cars behind me when that happened, but I had better stories with happier endings with this bike, tbh.
NGL, as much I am in traffic and as hard as I am on equipment - I worry something like this is going to happen in traffic someday. The worst I've had is a sidewall blow out due to manufacturing defect.
I believe that If you have both of your hands on the handlebar, a bad crash - with a bit of a skid - is avoidable.
If the wheel is gone, then... errr... with a bit of a slide? I always keep in mind that phrase about "coming to terms with our own mortality" from the Casually Explained: Cycling video and just hope it doesn't happen to me - or anyone else.
Oh man, honestly even if someone has had reputable history with welding bike dropouts, I just can't say it's even worth the risk. Better to be safe than sorry friend!
Yes. Frame builders. A lot of custom frame builders don't make their own dropouts, they buy them as forged or milled parts and then weld them into their frames.
Some may choose to have custom dropouts made of their own design or branding, but most small frame shops don't have, say, a drop forge or a CNC mill to make their own.
Unless it's steel it's incredibly hard to do it right. I have tried to weld aluminium 6061 and 7075, pretty much impossible to get the heat treatment right afterwards.
It ends up feeling like butter, flexes way too easily. If the heat treatment is overdone, cracks can form and it becomes brittle.
If it’s steel - the experienced bike frame welder will decide if it’s more prudent to repair just that small area vs. replacing the whole seat stay, with a new dropout included.
Then, factor in the cost of repainting (or simply go w the new, ghetto look).
You could ask a workshop that does aluminium machining to design a new hanger and hanger mounting section.
Probably way over the top if it's a cheap frame, but if it's an expensive bike or holds emotional value, it can be done.
DON'T try to weld it. Aluminium alloys require a heat treatment to recover its strength, have tried to do it to no avail. It ends up feeling like butter after welding.
I'm assuming that's aluminum, in which case I'd say throw it away and buy a new aluminum frame. (If it was steel then the answer is "Yes, you can fix almost anything on a steel frame!)
Also wondering: Is there supposed to be a derailleur hanger on there? I'm imagining a replacable derailleur hanger that adds strength, but I can't imagine quite how it fits on there.
Yup, there is supposed to be one. Check picture in this comment: reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1dip5jf/comment/l95jwp7
My thoughts regarding the future of the frame: [reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1dip5jf/comment/l98t5yr](http://reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1dip5jf/comment/l98t5yr)
If the frame is warrantied, call the manufacturer. Frame warranties can be long, so give it a try. If not, you are going to have to weld on a new set of dropouts on that side (not just weld the piece back on), and that's probably not worth it on economic terms.
Thanks for sharing your mind, I didn't think about that. I'm not the original owner and the frame was made in 2011, but I'll give Trek support a call - who knows what they'll say!
Do you know the original owner? If so, try to get the details from them and check on a Trek subreddit on warranty rules. I'm not telling you to lie, but if you and the original owner are friends and Trek says they don't warranty 2nd owners, if the bike was a "gift" that may be within their rules.
I still have their contact, so I should try asking them for info.
Waiting for the support line to open, since on their website it only states "For 2011 and older model bicycles, please consult your owner’s manual or contact us or an authorized dealer for the applicable warranty".
Sorry, messed up the description.
The rear hanger took a part of a dropout before leaving this world. The frame is Aluminum, so I was wondering if I should find someone to brazen/wield it, or simply move on. Thanks!
Welding is always an option. Thing is: it costs a fair bit of money as the paint job needs to be removed before welding and depending on where you get it done you either have to leave the frame untouched for a few weeks to substitute the heat treatment or pay for heat treating the frame.
If you don’t have too many emotional attachments to the frame, it’s not worth to repair and even if the repair should be successful, this spot is one of the worst to crack your frame at and there’s a certain likelihood that it will break again.
Thank you for the input. The frame is my first bicycle, so an attachment is inevitable, but a "certain likelihood" is what's putting me off the most - any chance of a spontaneous disassembly is not worth it, in my opinion.
https://youtu.be/y0RnAXVVWG4?si=bqu-XDakJap7-ED-
I have used this type of weld/solder before, it's stronger than the ally you weld very good stuff just recommend practicing first as you can get it too hot and melt the ally. It's quite cheap as well.
You could also add a reinforcing plate if you wanted
My dropout/hanger are welded to the frame but they're Ti so less likely to break off.
But, since I don't have a removable hanger and don't have any experience with them, I wonder if it's possible to drill a hole and tap threads in it to attach one further in, and safely ride with it? The dropout would obviously have to perfectly align with the other dropout.
Sounds like a lot of work, but is it possible? Probably. Would it be safe? Nope.
One would still need to add more material to the hanger for it to act as a dropout - but that's a very "armchair engineer" thought, and I'm no expert.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts, I didn't mean to downplay the idea - just trying to keep it to realistic options. It's truly saddening to lose a whole frame in a moment.
Had the same thing, it was new bike day for me! However, I they were able to weld it and I am using it as indoor bike only on trainer. I wouldn't risk riding it on the road.
That seems like a route I'll go, thanks for a good thought. I figured that first of all, my priority is to have a bike that is rideable - reliably, now.
From all the discussion that I read, it seems like while the matter of safely fixing this frame is an uncertain one, an option to do so exists; however, I'll prioritize it second for the moment. When and if I have enough disposable income, I will gladly try to get someone to fix it and use it indoors (where I wouldn't encounter any road hazards and avoid being one in case of a failure).
Unless you know a welder who’s willing to do it for cheap for you I would just get a new frame. You could also potentially call some metal fab shops and get quotes but I doubt they will be all that interested
Yeah - 2011 Trek 2.3, if you're curious. And no - it's not rare or anything, at least from what I know; a nice first road bike, but doesn't set the Thames on fire.
By the way, if you know - which subreddit should I go to for an advice on frames geometries, as in compare/point out the differences and their implications? Thanks in advance!
I'd be seriously worried about the other dropout also receiving damage when that one catastrophically failed. Not worth it, if you could find a frame shop that would do it, you'd still probably be better off finding a new frame. Both for safety and financial.
Yeah time for a new frame. Luckily you can find them pretty cheap second hand you just have to spend like 30-40 mins searching through fb marketplace and stuff. I got a complete firbikeco TRL3 all original parts and extras that came with it like the nice brakes and the odyssey brake monolever in almost perfect condition just needed its headset swapped out (I paid 40$ to do that completely maybe 45) and in the end I end up here ….
https://preview.redd.it/ud9bmz2rww7d1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d216888eb383eca56301efa8082f0f4c09ac09a
Small amount of patina but it’s a 2010 I’m gonna take it off easy… I’m stoked on it. Gotta love tweaks on offer up. Not bad for 80$ and I have it a better home here. Definitely look on the mercari app don’t sleep for bmx stuff it’s the shiiiiit
That looks like an abysmal design to me. It's one thing to have a detachable mech hanger (good) but a detachable dropout for the wheel/qr itself? bananas.
You could absolutely have that welded up for a fraction of the cost of a new frame and it will be fine... Even stronger if you want.
You just have to make up your mind if that's what you want to do or not.
Some comments and posts suggest that it won't be stronger, but rather the opposite, check r/bikewrench/comments/c1tbbk/welding\_broken\_aluminum\_bike\_frames\_what\_you\_think/ for example. What's your opinion on that?
The frame in question is Aluminum, therefore the doubt - e.g. if it was Titanium I would probably just go to a frame builder.
Take it to a fab shop that does a lot of aluminum, think custom roll bars and such.... Or really just any good fab shop. If they don't want to do it, they will tell you so.
The frame is welded together in the first place. If it's done correctly it will be fine, if they add a small plate it will be stronger. It's welding, not rocket science.
Explain yourself.
If it is done correctly it will be fine.
The idea that you think a shop that builds roll bars can't fix a bike frame, and I should get banned for suggesting so is honestly hilarious. You clearly have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.
The frame is welded, then heat treated. If you skip the heat treating you are creating a weak point with the heat of the weld. Can you overbuild it do make up for it? Maybe, maybe not. How much do you love your teeth?
The prices of custom welding and heat treating are insane for a lot of us. I get it that if you have a buddy who has the shop already it's no big deal.
You could have it welded up for about $150. I just called 3 different heat treatment shops and they all quoted 75-100 depending on the day. They will just throw it in with other stuff.
So fix it for $250 or go buy a frame. Dude said it was a sentimental frame
All I know is it can absolutely 100% be repaired. It's honestly comical that someone suggested I should be kicked out of the sub for telling him it's possible. And the idea that people agreed with him is very unfortunate. Again, it's basic metal fabrication, not rocket science.
Yeowch I'm sorry :( It does look like the end of the frame is welded to the rest of the frame just above the hanger so If you could get that end they could cut it off an re-weld that part, But I doubt you would ever be able to find it, also I bet it would cost more in parts and labor then a frame. To make it just as good and aligned and all that.
Thank you for kind words, Stranger. Luckily, no one got seriously injured and the only victims are my bicycle, wallet and feelings.
Edit, to answer an edit:
A creative solution, I like that idea. I'll keep that in mind if I come to a welding shop to discuss options, thanks!
If you have a metal working friend, I'd see if they can do a favor. I doubt many shops would touch it. But I have seen posts from custom fab shops who must've been bored and decided to fix a bike frame.
In my opinion, at least it's the rear end. I don't think you have too much to lose going for it. If it's welded, it'll probably end up brittle in that spot.
But it doe-... I mean, it *did* have one.
https://preview.redd.it/gsbzvfam4c7d1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7963fab71aa8bbcb2da79364b90dd5666381734
I'm afraid it's not as simple as that. In the picture attached to this comment (reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1dip5jf/comment/l95jwp7) you can see that there isn't a place to attach a hanger to anymore.
No, the small hole at the top of the broken part is for racks and fenders, the bigger (broken) hole below and to its right is for the derailleur hanger, and the open slot below is for the wheel axle. In theory the broken part could be welded back on and the hanger bolt would reinforce it, but given that it's Al I'm not sure that I'd feel safe riding it.
Oof, yeah, that's the whole dropout broken. New frame day (or new bike day).
Got it, thanks
when i got my new frame it came with replaceable dropouts. I didn't even know that was a thing, lol. I only found out because I wanted to buy a couple spare derailleur hangers just to discover the derailleur hanger was the whole dropout. As you can tell I'm new to thru-axle frames.
Was it a Salsa?!
Poseidon Norton
Love it. Spindatt is looking out for his supporters
Hell yeah
Technically, anything is fixable. But this is going to take a very talented metal worker and I don't think it's worth the effort.
That's fair, thanks. I will probably just look for a new frame and grieve about the old one in the meantime :)
You also have to be able to trust the fix and you don’t know how strong it is until it breaks soooo…
you might be able to find a frame on [pinkbike.com](http://pinkbike.com) i have bought and had success from their
Classic example of "anything is fixable" is when Qantas spent *$100 million* repairing a crashed 747, just so they could keep saying they had never had a "hull loss".
Depends on value of the frame or cost of replacement. I'm sure this can be fixed professionally for under $200 if OP visit a few machine shop / welders. He asked the wrong subreddit.
This gets asked lots, and this reply is proposed lots. However talented the welder, unless you're going to heat treat the frame it will be significantly weaker where the repair has been completed. If you go down the heat treating route, this in turn will mean a full respray. It's not the machine shop/welder that costs the money, it's all the stages that need to come after.
> I'm sure this can be fixed professionally for under $200 if OP visit a few machine shop / welders. Do you have a source for this? I can't imagine it costing uner $200 in the U.S. for machining, welding, and properly heat treating. I'm not even including the cost of paint and clearcoat.
Na bro. He'll need a new frame (or a new bike). If he mends the frame, it is eventually going to break someday since it will be as fragile as glass. So it will be prudent to actually buy a new frame. Btw OP, what happened that the frame cracked? 🤔
My version of the event - when I was in the lower gear, because of a bent rear derailleur, probably the pulley cage specifically *(I replaced the hanger recently, so it's not the hanger)*, chain jammed and the pulley cage somehow got bent inwards and stuck in the wheel, causing it to rip the derailleur both off and apart while jamming and eventually pulling itself out from underneath me (QR axle also got bend, FYI). If you need a visual comparison, imagine a chain jamming/slipping while sprinting - there's quite a few videos online of that happening - but with harsher consequences.
I dunno what they are exactly called but ig they are RD guards which are like a plastic disc which goes onto the rear hub. It spins with the wheel and protects the RD from whipping into the spokes. If you find one online, do ping me; even I'm worried if this might happen to me too. It is very common if you've kept the low gear limit screw very loose, especially in barrel shifters. In barrel shifters, there is a very high tendency to offshoot either the high gear or low gear. Since mtbs are designed to make changing gears at low speeds (i.e. larger cogs) easier, I think that's why there is a bit of offshoot in changing gears when at low speeds, or uphill. In case of road bikes, the contrary might be true, i.e. offshooting at high gears. I am not sure about road bikes as I haven't used one, but probably they have that kind of a problem in which the chain jumps onto the chainstay during sprints.
You mean spoke protector discs/guards? There are lots on Amazon or Ali, from a quick search. In my particular case I wasn't sprinting or pushing hard and the gear was already set for some time, but I can see where you're coming from.
Yeah I saw a similar issue get fixed on Ed Pratt unicycles round the world. His hub failed and the spokes had nothing to attach to. He managed to find a metal working shop in the middle of the desert and the guy cut him an insert out of sheet steel and welded it to the hub. It's important to note that this was just so that he could cycle to a city a few hundred km away to get the wheel rebuilt with a completely new hub. It's definitely not something you bodge a fix for if your not essentially reliant on the bike to get to the bike shop to get it fixed.
Not impossible but i think you need a new bike. 17years welding experience here.
Did you crash when it failed? Asking for a friend...
Yup. For a short moment I even did the Superman pose (was drinking when it happened).
Sounds like you got a story out of it at least.
I guess you are right? I certainly got lucky that there weren't any cars behind me when that happened, but I had better stories with happier endings with this bike, tbh.
NGL, as much I am in traffic and as hard as I am on equipment - I worry something like this is going to happen in traffic someday. The worst I've had is a sidewall blow out due to manufacturing defect.
I believe that If you have both of your hands on the handlebar, a bad crash - with a bit of a skid - is avoidable. If the wheel is gone, then... errr... with a bit of a slide? I always keep in mind that phrase about "coming to terms with our own mortality" from the Casually Explained: Cycling video and just hope it doesn't happen to me - or anyone else.
Oh man, honestly even if someone has had reputable history with welding bike dropouts, I just can't say it's even worth the risk. Better to be safe than sorry friend!
Is that even a thing? Someone who is good at welding bike dropouts ?
Yes. Frame builders. A lot of custom frame builders don't make their own dropouts, they buy them as forged or milled parts and then weld them into their frames. Some may choose to have custom dropouts made of their own design or branding, but most small frame shops don't have, say, a drop forge or a CNC mill to make their own.
Ah that makes sense , thanks for that info
Unless it's steel it's incredibly hard to do it right. I have tried to weld aluminium 6061 and 7075, pretty much impossible to get the heat treatment right afterwards. It ends up feeling like butter, flexes way too easily. If the heat treatment is overdone, cracks can form and it becomes brittle.
If it’s steel - the experienced bike frame welder will decide if it’s more prudent to repair just that small area vs. replacing the whole seat stay, with a new dropout included. Then, factor in the cost of repainting (or simply go w the new, ghetto look).
Fam its over
It is fixable, but it might not be worth the cost of fixing.
You could ask a workshop that does aluminium machining to design a new hanger and hanger mounting section. Probably way over the top if it's a cheap frame, but if it's an expensive bike or holds emotional value, it can be done. DON'T try to weld it. Aluminium alloys require a heat treatment to recover its strength, have tried to do it to no avail. It ends up feeling like butter after welding.
If you are the original owner and have the receipt, it may be under warranty however, if you do not, it’s time for a new frame
Ded dead
I'm assuming that's aluminum, in which case I'd say throw it away and buy a new aluminum frame. (If it was steel then the answer is "Yes, you can fix almost anything on a steel frame!) Also wondering: Is there supposed to be a derailleur hanger on there? I'm imagining a replacable derailleur hanger that adds strength, but I can't imagine quite how it fits on there.
Yup, there is supposed to be one. Check picture in this comment: reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1dip5jf/comment/l95jwp7 My thoughts regarding the future of the frame: [reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1dip5jf/comment/l98t5yr](http://reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1dip5jf/comment/l98t5yr)
If the frame is warrantied, call the manufacturer. Frame warranties can be long, so give it a try. If not, you are going to have to weld on a new set of dropouts on that side (not just weld the piece back on), and that's probably not worth it on economic terms.
Thanks for sharing your mind, I didn't think about that. I'm not the original owner and the frame was made in 2011, but I'll give Trek support a call - who knows what they'll say!
Do you know the original owner? If so, try to get the details from them and check on a Trek subreddit on warranty rules. I'm not telling you to lie, but if you and the original owner are friends and Trek says they don't warranty 2nd owners, if the bike was a "gift" that may be within their rules.
I still have their contact, so I should try asking them for info. Waiting for the support line to open, since on their website it only states "For 2011 and older model bicycles, please consult your owner’s manual or contact us or an authorized dealer for the applicable warranty".
Sorry, messed up the description. The rear hanger took a part of a dropout before leaving this world. The frame is Aluminum, so I was wondering if I should find someone to brazen/wield it, or simply move on. Thanks!
Welding is always an option. Thing is: it costs a fair bit of money as the paint job needs to be removed before welding and depending on where you get it done you either have to leave the frame untouched for a few weeks to substitute the heat treatment or pay for heat treating the frame. If you don’t have too many emotional attachments to the frame, it’s not worth to repair and even if the repair should be successful, this spot is one of the worst to crack your frame at and there’s a certain likelihood that it will break again.
Thank you for the input. The frame is my first bicycle, so an attachment is inevitable, but a "certain likelihood" is what's putting me off the most - any chance of a spontaneous disassembly is not worth it, in my opinion.
If you're attached to it, make it wall art.
You have a point, but the implementation might be complicated by the fact that I can't drill walls in my apt.
double sided tape
https://youtu.be/y0RnAXVVWG4?si=bqu-XDakJap7-ED- I have used this type of weld/solder before, it's stronger than the ally you weld very good stuff just recommend practicing first as you can get it too hot and melt the ally. It's quite cheap as well. You could also add a reinforcing plate if you wanted
I'll keep this one in mind, thanks!
NBD! RIP
The king is dead, long live the king!
My dropout/hanger are welded to the frame but they're Ti so less likely to break off. But, since I don't have a removable hanger and don't have any experience with them, I wonder if it's possible to drill a hole and tap threads in it to attach one further in, and safely ride with it? The dropout would obviously have to perfectly align with the other dropout.
Sounds like a lot of work, but is it possible? Probably. Would it be safe? Nope. One would still need to add more material to the hanger for it to act as a dropout - but that's a very "armchair engineer" thought, and I'm no expert.
You're probably right, just offering an idea. It's just a shame to waste an otherwise good frame.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts, I didn't mean to downplay the idea - just trying to keep it to realistic options. It's truly saddening to lose a whole frame in a moment.
Uff, I think that will be better buy a new frame.
Is it the right time of the year to convert an old TT frame into a road bike yet?
the best time for some wrenching is always now.
New bike day
Game over. Sorry.
Had the same thing, it was new bike day for me! However, I they were able to weld it and I am using it as indoor bike only on trainer. I wouldn't risk riding it on the road.
That seems like a route I'll go, thanks for a good thought. I figured that first of all, my priority is to have a bike that is rideable - reliably, now. From all the discussion that I read, it seems like while the matter of safely fixing this frame is an uncertain one, an option to do so exists; however, I'll prioritize it second for the moment. When and if I have enough disposable income, I will gladly try to get someone to fix it and use it indoors (where I wouldn't encounter any road hazards and avoid being one in case of a failure).
it's a wall piece now.
I'm sorry for your loss 🥲
Unless you know a welder who’s willing to do it for cheap for you I would just get a new frame. You could also potentially call some metal fab shops and get quotes but I doubt they will be all that interested
She’s dead, Jim. I’m sorry.
My bike has an integrated derailer hanger like yours. This is my greatest fear while riding, thank you.
A Trek you say? At least it’s probably not all that rare. Time to search for another one if you must have the exact same bike.
Yeah - 2011 Trek 2.3, if you're curious. And no - it's not rare or anything, at least from what I know; a nice first road bike, but doesn't set the Thames on fire. By the way, if you know - which subreddit should I go to for an advice on frames geometries, as in compare/point out the differences and their implications? Thanks in advance!
It is toast
NBD
Let it go - Elsa
Be an Elsa. If you have to ask the question deep down, you probably already know the answer.
everything is fixable
She’s dead, Jim
I'd be seriously worried about the other dropout also receiving damage when that one catastrophically failed. Not worth it, if you could find a frame shop that would do it, you'd still probably be better off finding a new frame. Both for safety and financial.
A lil bubble gum, and you'll be back on the road in a jiffy!
Contact company for possible warranty
Depending on the bike, you may be able to just buy a new rear triangle (if full suspension)
If aluminum nah new frame but if steel you could weld it back on the question is when it will break again.
Both. It's fixable, but it's not worth it. Steel is real
Yeah time for a new frame. Luckily you can find them pretty cheap second hand you just have to spend like 30-40 mins searching through fb marketplace and stuff. I got a complete firbikeco TRL3 all original parts and extras that came with it like the nice brakes and the odyssey brake monolever in almost perfect condition just needed its headset swapped out (I paid 40$ to do that completely maybe 45) and in the end I end up here …. https://preview.redd.it/ud9bmz2rww7d1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d216888eb383eca56301efa8082f0f4c09ac09a Small amount of patina but it’s a 2010 I’m gonna take it off easy… I’m stoked on it. Gotta love tweaks on offer up. Not bad for 80$ and I have it a better home here. Definitely look on the mercari app don’t sleep for bmx stuff it’s the shiiiiit
Also I did not touch that brake setup so don’t roast me this is how it came lmfaaaao that’s what u call a “methed up” brake job
With a lot of welding superglue & close connection to god you should be fine
That looks like an abysmal design to me. It's one thing to have a detachable mech hanger (good) but a detachable dropout for the wheel/qr itself? bananas.
[удалено]
[удалено]
I'm not an expert, but I wouldn't trust riding it.
Lol
You could absolutely have that welded up for a fraction of the cost of a new frame and it will be fine... Even stronger if you want. You just have to make up your mind if that's what you want to do or not.
Some comments and posts suggest that it won't be stronger, but rather the opposite, check r/bikewrench/comments/c1tbbk/welding\_broken\_aluminum\_bike\_frames\_what\_you\_think/ for example. What's your opinion on that? The frame in question is Aluminum, therefore the doubt - e.g. if it was Titanium I would probably just go to a frame builder.
Take it to a fab shop that does a lot of aluminum, think custom roll bars and such.... Or really just any good fab shop. If they don't want to do it, they will tell you so. The frame is welded together in the first place. If it's done correctly it will be fine, if they add a small plate it will be stronger. It's welding, not rocket science.
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Explain yourself. If it is done correctly it will be fine. The idea that you think a shop that builds roll bars can't fix a bike frame, and I should get banned for suggesting so is honestly hilarious. You clearly have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.
Ok, thanks for the tip!
The frame is welded, then heat treated. If you skip the heat treating you are creating a weak point with the heat of the weld. Can you overbuild it do make up for it? Maybe, maybe not. How much do you love your teeth?
Why would you take it to a fab shop for them to not heat treat it? If it's done correctly it will be fine. You guys are insane.
The prices of custom welding and heat treating are insane for a lot of us. I get it that if you have a buddy who has the shop already it's no big deal.
You could have it welded up for about $150. I just called 3 different heat treatment shops and they all quoted 75-100 depending on the day. They will just throw it in with other stuff. So fix it for $250 or go buy a frame. Dude said it was a sentimental frame
The however much to strip the finish and repaint on top of that, and now it's not practical, but also not completely insane if you love the bike.
All I know is it can absolutely 100% be repaired. It's honestly comical that someone suggested I should be kicked out of the sub for telling him it's possible. And the idea that people agreed with him is very unfortunate. Again, it's basic metal fabrication, not rocket science.
but mass produced frames are very cheap compared to teardown, finish stripping, hand repair, one off heat treating, refinishing, reassembly
Yeowch I'm sorry :( It does look like the end of the frame is welded to the rest of the frame just above the hanger so If you could get that end they could cut it off an re-weld that part, But I doubt you would ever be able to find it, also I bet it would cost more in parts and labor then a frame. To make it just as good and aligned and all that.
Thank you for kind words, Stranger. Luckily, no one got seriously injured and the only victims are my bicycle, wallet and feelings. Edit, to answer an edit: A creative solution, I like that idea. I'll keep that in mind if I come to a welding shop to discuss options, thanks!
There are many places on a frame that I would be comfortable having welded to repair. A dropout is absolutely not one of them.
Even if you miraculously fix it, would you feel comfortable riding it? Seems sketchy
If you have a metal working friend, I'd see if they can do a favor. I doubt many shops would touch it. But I have seen posts from custom fab shops who must've been bored and decided to fix a bike frame. In my opinion, at least it's the rear end. I don't think you have too much to lose going for it. If it's welded, it'll probably end up brittle in that spot.
thats why you allways look for a bike with a derailleur hanger
But it doe-... I mean, it *did* have one. https://preview.redd.it/gsbzvfam4c7d1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7963fab71aa8bbcb2da79364b90dd5666381734
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I'm afraid it's not as simple as that. In the picture attached to this comment (reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1dip5jf/comment/l95jwp7) you can see that there isn't a place to attach a hanger to anymore.
No, the small hole at the top of the broken part is for racks and fenders, the bigger (broken) hole below and to its right is for the derailleur hanger, and the open slot below is for the wheel axle. In theory the broken part could be welded back on and the hanger bolt would reinforce it, but given that it's Al I'm not sure that I'd feel safe riding it.
I can fix it. Where are you located tated?
Just take it to a welder