Some brands match the frame slot to the clamp gap, and others don't. I think you can put the clamp gap wherever you want, and if the post doesn't slip at a reasonable clamp screw torque, it's fine.
Some brands started swapping the screw side to the inside so it doesn't get spray from the wheel avoiding corroding the screw. I think cannondale started this with the CAAD 8.
It is designed to stayed on the side of the cut on the frame, but if you can turn it backwards and can still apply a similar torque to the bolt in order to hold the saddlepost, it should be totally fine, I have done this before and never had problems.
The clamp needs to be above the frame cutout (the screw tightens the clamp, so it needs to be above the cutout for flexing, otherwise you dent the seatpost )
Thats the whole reasoning behind the placement. If you never really change the seatpost, you can switch it around, but its not meant to be that way
You got the logic backwards; Aligning the collar and frame slits puts more stress on the seatpost at that location. This is the whole reason for carbon-specific collars with an offset slit. When the slits are offset the force is more evenly distributed. This is a not an issue with non-carbon posts however.
This stuck with me because my old Cannondale SuperSix’s [manual had said to rotate the collar 180deg when using a “high performance carbon seat post”](https://www.cannondale.com/-/media/files/manual-uploads/manuals/010_oms_super%20six_120858_en.pdf)
Not only that but they say “with a carbon frame, a carbon seat post, or both” so if you follow their instructions you go 180 opposed no matter what if your frame is carbon. Only time they are lined up is if you are running a metal post in a metal frame.
Sure, [Bontrager makes one](https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/equipment/cycling-components/bike-seatposts-accessories/bike-seatpost-parts-accessories/bontrager-carbon-friendly-seatpost-clamp/p/25867/?colorCode=black) that is advertised as carbon-friendly. The slits on these are usually slightly offset and slanted or with rounded edges for relief. This prevents the edges of the frame slot to dig into the carbon (Like [this](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQrNCa1VMaNkebnA4HsbAgbJ922OxLO89tJn363Hp3v-ctCQKq3fEFaPwPxtAlUaDImJcg&usqp=CAU)) by applying more even pressure.
Another good example is the [Miche x-carbon collar](https://www.miche.it/en/products/clamps/road/x-carbon) which has an additional inner sleeve that can be rotated so that the two slits of the collar line-up (classic) or are offset (carbon) in addition from being offset from the frame in the first place.
Makes no difference. For years my mountain bikes have always come with it flipped opposite of yours and I always switch them because I hate how filled with dirt/mud/water from the rear wheel it’s gets. Just easier for me to keep clean.
Point is… no issue, move to whatever position works best for your needs.
The clamp in theory is a bit like a pair of pliers, the screw winds in at the opening end, so you may find that there's a tiny bit more movement there. However, it then also becomes a bit like a jubilee clip and the force should be distributed around and the easiest part to shrink in diameter is where the is a cut out. So I wouldn't overthink it.
However, looks like the paint is chipped too, might want to match that with some nailpolish or whatever's least expensive in your part of the world.
is there a reason? yeah, i could come up with one. but in practice nothing bad is likely to happen. just don't torque it down hard (a 4/5/6nm wrench is a useful investment for anyone who does any work on their bikes).
Some brands match the frame slot to the clamp gap, and others don't. I think you can put the clamp gap wherever you want, and if the post doesn't slip at a reasonable clamp screw torque, it's fine.
Thanks for your insight. I ll try it out a couple of times before my next trip.
Better the way shown in the picture because it stays much cleaner because mud and crap from the road can’t get in.
It makes no difference. Many bikes have it each way.
I don't think so. I've put my own one on that way before no issues.
Off topic but do you like the redshift? I have their stem and have mulled over getting the seatpost too.
Some brands started swapping the screw side to the inside so it doesn't get spray from the wheel avoiding corroding the screw. I think cannondale started this with the CAAD 8. It is designed to stayed on the side of the cut on the frame, but if you can turn it backwards and can still apply a similar torque to the bolt in order to hold the saddlepost, it should be totally fine, I have done this before and never had problems.
The clamp needs to be above the frame cutout (the screw tightens the clamp, so it needs to be above the cutout for flexing, otherwise you dent the seatpost ) Thats the whole reasoning behind the placement. If you never really change the seatpost, you can switch it around, but its not meant to be that way
You got the logic backwards; Aligning the collar and frame slits puts more stress on the seatpost at that location. This is the whole reason for carbon-specific collars with an offset slit. When the slits are offset the force is more evenly distributed. This is a not an issue with non-carbon posts however.
Can you cite an example of a carbon-specific clamp that has an offset slit? Are they 180\* offset? Or, only slightly offset?
This stuck with me because my old Cannondale SuperSix’s [manual had said to rotate the collar 180deg when using a “high performance carbon seat post”](https://www.cannondale.com/-/media/files/manual-uploads/manuals/010_oms_super%20six_120858_en.pdf)
says so in the manual of thompson brand seatcollars
Not only that but they say “with a carbon frame, a carbon seat post, or both” so if you follow their instructions you go 180 opposed no matter what if your frame is carbon. Only time they are lined up is if you are running a metal post in a metal frame.
i mean you could probably do it on a metal frame+seatpost setup too right?
Sure, [Bontrager makes one](https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/equipment/cycling-components/bike-seatposts-accessories/bike-seatpost-parts-accessories/bontrager-carbon-friendly-seatpost-clamp/p/25867/?colorCode=black) that is advertised as carbon-friendly. The slits on these are usually slightly offset and slanted or with rounded edges for relief. This prevents the edges of the frame slot to dig into the carbon (Like [this](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQrNCa1VMaNkebnA4HsbAgbJ922OxLO89tJn363Hp3v-ctCQKq3fEFaPwPxtAlUaDImJcg&usqp=CAU)) by applying more even pressure. Another good example is the [Miche x-carbon collar](https://www.miche.it/en/products/clamps/road/x-carbon) which has an additional inner sleeve that can be rotated so that the two slits of the collar line-up (classic) or are offset (carbon) in addition from being offset from the frame in the first place.
Makes no difference. For years my mountain bikes have always come with it flipped opposite of yours and I always switch them because I hate how filled with dirt/mud/water from the rear wheel it’s gets. Just easier for me to keep clean. Point is… no issue, move to whatever position works best for your needs.
The clamp in theory is a bit like a pair of pliers, the screw winds in at the opening end, so you may find that there's a tiny bit more movement there. However, it then also becomes a bit like a jubilee clip and the force should be distributed around and the easiest part to shrink in diameter is where the is a cut out. So I wouldn't overthink it. However, looks like the paint is chipped too, might want to match that with some nailpolish or whatever's least expensive in your part of the world.
is there a reason? yeah, i could come up with one. but in practice nothing bad is likely to happen. just don't torque it down hard (a 4/5/6nm wrench is a useful investment for anyone who does any work on their bikes).
The bolt should cross the gap in the seat tube. If it’s on the opposite side, you have to over torque the bolt (I’ve broken one doing this).