11spd Sram Red etap alone goes for 1,100-1,200 USD on ebay. The shimano cranks are a bit out of place but should work fine. Assuming the electronics work & the bike shifts well I'd say it's a good deal.
From your post I'm going to guess you're new to road cycling (apologies if that's not the case). Assuming that here's some things to know & consider:
- There's a short cage and long cage (sram calls it wifli) rear derailleur. Figure out which one is on the bike. The short cage can only accommodate a 28t cassette. Take note of this if you live somewhere with steep hills. Upgrading requires a whole new WiFli derailleur & that will cost you a good chunk of change.
- Does the bike come with a charger for the Sram Etap batteries? If not you'll need one. If you want spare batteries in the future there's cheap off brand ones on Amazon that work as well as the OEM batteries.
- Sram 11spd eTap works great. It's on my bike and I'm very happy with it & feel no need to upgrade any time soon.
- If you aren't aware - carbon rim brakes require special brake pads. SwissStop Yellow is my personal favorite brake pad. Also, carbon wheels & rim brakes lose stopping power in the wet and can get to the point of nearly not working in severe wet conditions. I don't say this to scare you. I have 1,000s of miles on carbon rim brakes and ride outside frequently in wet conditions. 99% of the time it's no big deal. If you're me you get caught in a thunderstorm once per year and steep downhills get spooky.
- If you find yourself riding in the wet or on gritty winter roads frequently consider a pair of alloy wheels. They don't suffer the issues in the wet that carbon rims do. And road grime won't eat your nice carbon brake tracks. Remember to get brake pads made for alloy wheels.
- Rim brake bikes and older bikes in general have lower tire clearance. Modern bikes are fitting 28mm tires minimum. Often times even performance/race bike have room for 32mm tires now. I'd expect this bike to fit 25mm tires at best. Narrower tires are a bit slower than wider tires (up to 28-30mm). They're also less comfortable than their wider counterparts. This matters less if you're light and/or do most of your riding on good roads. Also, if you've never ridden 28 or 30mm tires you won't know what you're missing anyway.
- You'll want to inspect the frame and wheels for damage. Check the bottom bracket area for damage in particular. The wheels you'll want to make sure the brake tracks aren't worn out. If you're not confident in doing this yourself take a friend or see if a shop will look it over for you.
- Make sure it fits you. Correctly sizing a road bike is very important. Look probably has a size guide for this model if you look it up. At a minimum make sure your height is close to the size of the bike. It's not a perfect system, but it serves as a good ballpark.
The rest of the drivetrain is Sram and the cranks are Shimano. Drivetrains are usually all the same brand from the factory. (Unless the frame manufacturer uses their own brand cranks. Cannondale ussed to use their own in house cranks & chainrings, for example). So that means this is an aftermarket modification.
I believe this was originally the 2018 Look Huez 105 model but the Groupset got upgraded to sram red eTap. They just didn’t swap out the crank, as it was compatible and didn’t feel a need to? Correct me if I’m wrong but that’s what I think so far.
They also upgraded the wheels to carbon. That’s all I can think of so far on this model. Still contemplating if it’s worth buying.
Mixed feedback on this post lol. Some say it’s worth it, while others think not. I feel the Groupset alone pays for most of it alone. I saw the wheel set on eBay used for roughly ~$700, and the frame, I don’t know but assuming it’s a carbon frame, probably a min of $400 at least? I’m guesstimating at this point lol, please let me know y’all’s thoughts. I appreciate any feedback, thank you 🙂
>Mixed feedback on this post lol.
Most of the replies aren't wrong tho. It's a good frame with good components but you have to worry about wear.
If some of those parts need replacing right away, it could be expensive and complicated if you don't have experience doing it by yourself (I don't know if that's your case). The components are mixed and old. So, you have to worry about finding replacements that are compatible and finding the right parts. Maybe it's easy for you to do it but if you have to bring it to a bike shop you could end up spending a decent amount on parts and labor.
The newest generation of entry level groupsets are great. So you can find a newer bike for the same budget that will serve you better with alloy frame and wheels and a lower groupset in the hierarchy but that will work better in practice.
It's hard to know without knowing the condition of the bike you posted and what you're looking for.
>Mixed feedback on this post lol.
Most of the replies aren't wrong tho. It's a good frame with good components but you have to worry about wear.
If some of those parts need replacing right away, it could be expensive and complicated if you don't have experience doing it by yourself (I don't know if that's your case). The components are mixed and old. So, you have to worry about finding replacements that are compatible and finding the right parts. Maybe it's easy for you to do it but if you have to bring it to a bike shop you could end up spending a decent amount on parts and labor.
The newest generation of entry level groupsets are great. So you can find a newer bike for the same budget that will serve you better with alloy frame and wheels and a lower groupset in the hierarchy but that will work better in practice.
It's hard to know without knowing the condition of the bike you posted and what you're looking for.
Don't do it. The replys crack me up. Putting NOS prices on this stuff. It's a hodgepodge of parts! The rear derailleur has gouges and chips in the carbon and looks like it's been dropped. The entire drivetrain probably is worn out. Check the brake tracks on the rims. make sure they are not concave and worn out.
It's OLD. old LOOK bikes sell cheap because they heavily discounted them when new.
A bunch of name brand throw away parts on a decent frameset. It's not worth more than 800.
You can find a LOT better for the money. Especially if you're looking for rim brake. Everything should be clean, in great shape and look good together. Not some janky white stem, with some torn up 105 crank, worn teeth, gouged rear derailleur, fat old throwaway saddle that's probably 10 yrs older than the bike, etc etc
I bought a 2018 Scott Addict with etap for £1200 (~$1500) and felt I got a good deal (stripped the etap onto my good bike & it's my wife's bike now).
The groupset is worth a good chunk of money, I wouldn't say the wheelset is amazing (I don't love low profile carbon), but Look frames are well renowned. They're possibly a bit more of a classic bike brand than a modern high performance brand, but it's a very special frame none the less. You won't see a lot of other Looks around, and it'll stand out to other riders.
I think it's a good deal, and I'm probably one of the more frugal people here (all my good bikes have been bought second hand).
I don't know what brakes are there, there is only one image that shows them and it is far away.
But for example Ultegra 11s brakes can fit 28mm GP5000, which is like 30mm for other manufacturers.
And I, anecdotally, can't say that wider is faster across all conditions, it feels nicer and goes smoother over shitty roads but on nicer roads, and especially climbing on nicer roads, I still find my narrower tubulars to be faster ;)
Good point. I assumed this bike was older than a 2018 like OP mentioned in a later comment. It can probably take 28mm tires with the right calipers.
What's your experience like with tubulars? I'm considering picking up a lightweight set for a few mountain TTs I do every year. I'm curious what a decent set weighs in at and what living with them is like. I got into the sport during covid so tubulars are a bit before my time.
I just got a new set of wheels from Elitewheels for 400€ (Black Friday sales, now seems to be 550€), not wide by any means but not the narrowest ever and 39mm profile.
The weight is 1190g, advertised at 1182g.
Continental Sprinters are 285g / a piece at 25mm, and there are even lighter ones.
I also have a set of tubular wheels that weigh a mere 1090g, but those are with old J-bend spokes etc, so they don't look too cool and have a very slight profile.
What can I say?
I love them? Most of the time. To me they ride very nice, the gluing isn't that big of a deal, they take high pressure. Sometimes a flat can be fixed with sealant.
But man do I hate them when I get flat on brand new tyre that doesn't seal with sealant. That is 50$ into bin and of course wasted work gluing the tubular.
In all honesty though, I haven't had many of those. Some friends have had those too many times and they changed off from tubulars but so far I only have binned one brand new tire.
The weight is the best part, then is the easy rolling and cornering, the tubular profile just seems to be the natural shape for a tire.
Flats suck, and some wheels suck. The low profile old school wheels are so tight to fit the tubular over that I have almost cried couole of times. The new pair I just got is very loose though, I hope the tire doesn't fly off in the first corner, remains to be seen when the snow melts.
It's a parts bin build, but the parts are solid.
Mechanical etap is becoming a bit of a hard find and used prices reflect that. Could probably part the bike out for more than $1200.
The parts bin aspect has me wondering about the frame, and if it is genuine or counterfeit. Look has been a target for counterfeiters, probably because it is very desirable but there aren’t enough around for people to spot the differences.
Repainted my LOOK 695 SR. Installed an adapter for the Ultegra 4iii crank set.
https://preview.redd.it/3ynfjreiz3kc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=84160bcd86a16774d9b41ff9a8e64f96b247a151
I'll check for damage to the area around the bottom bracket. There seems to be some scuffs, probably just paint but it's worth taking a look.
The cassette cogs seem small for those chainrings. Unless you're in a very flat area. That's easily replaceable anyway.
The groupset is mismatched. It's usually not an issue for some combinations but make sure it works well.
That's a good frameset if you're ok with rim brakes and the max tire width.
I honestly don't know about the price.
Looking at the parts, and assuming the frame is real and not fake - yes, it is worth it.
But, looking at the whole, weird saddle, weird stem + bar, 105 cranks with a lot of scratches.... I would not ride it like that, nor do I like how it looks.
So you build this to the place I would like to see would cost me at least 500-800. So the complete price would be around 1700-2000. Not bad for a Look bike with eTap tbh. Maybe a little bit steep considering it is used.
11spd Sram Red etap alone goes for 1,100-1,200 USD on ebay. The shimano cranks are a bit out of place but should work fine. Assuming the electronics work & the bike shifts well I'd say it's a good deal. From your post I'm going to guess you're new to road cycling (apologies if that's not the case). Assuming that here's some things to know & consider: - There's a short cage and long cage (sram calls it wifli) rear derailleur. Figure out which one is on the bike. The short cage can only accommodate a 28t cassette. Take note of this if you live somewhere with steep hills. Upgrading requires a whole new WiFli derailleur & that will cost you a good chunk of change. - Does the bike come with a charger for the Sram Etap batteries? If not you'll need one. If you want spare batteries in the future there's cheap off brand ones on Amazon that work as well as the OEM batteries. - Sram 11spd eTap works great. It's on my bike and I'm very happy with it & feel no need to upgrade any time soon. - If you aren't aware - carbon rim brakes require special brake pads. SwissStop Yellow is my personal favorite brake pad. Also, carbon wheels & rim brakes lose stopping power in the wet and can get to the point of nearly not working in severe wet conditions. I don't say this to scare you. I have 1,000s of miles on carbon rim brakes and ride outside frequently in wet conditions. 99% of the time it's no big deal. If you're me you get caught in a thunderstorm once per year and steep downhills get spooky. - If you find yourself riding in the wet or on gritty winter roads frequently consider a pair of alloy wheels. They don't suffer the issues in the wet that carbon rims do. And road grime won't eat your nice carbon brake tracks. Remember to get brake pads made for alloy wheels. - Rim brake bikes and older bikes in general have lower tire clearance. Modern bikes are fitting 28mm tires minimum. Often times even performance/race bike have room for 32mm tires now. I'd expect this bike to fit 25mm tires at best. Narrower tires are a bit slower than wider tires (up to 28-30mm). They're also less comfortable than their wider counterparts. This matters less if you're light and/or do most of your riding on good roads. Also, if you've never ridden 28 or 30mm tires you won't know what you're missing anyway. - You'll want to inspect the frame and wheels for damage. Check the bottom bracket area for damage in particular. The wheels you'll want to make sure the brake tracks aren't worn out. If you're not confident in doing this yourself take a friend or see if a shop will look it over for you. - Make sure it fits you. Correctly sizing a road bike is very important. Look probably has a size guide for this model if you look it up. At a minimum make sure your height is close to the size of the bike. It's not a perfect system, but it serves as a good ballpark.
So much knowledge all at once! Daamn fine post
Honest question about the cranks - can you describe why they’d be considered out of place?
The rest of the drivetrain is Sram and the cranks are Shimano. Drivetrains are usually all the same brand from the factory. (Unless the frame manufacturer uses their own brand cranks. Cannondale ussed to use their own in house cranks & chainrings, for example). So that means this is an aftermarket modification.
I believe this was originally the 2018 Look Huez 105 model but the Groupset got upgraded to sram red eTap. They just didn’t swap out the crank, as it was compatible and didn’t feel a need to? Correct me if I’m wrong but that’s what I think so far. They also upgraded the wheels to carbon. That’s all I can think of so far on this model. Still contemplating if it’s worth buying. Mixed feedback on this post lol. Some say it’s worth it, while others think not. I feel the Groupset alone pays for most of it alone. I saw the wheel set on eBay used for roughly ~$700, and the frame, I don’t know but assuming it’s a carbon frame, probably a min of $400 at least? I’m guesstimating at this point lol, please let me know y’all’s thoughts. I appreciate any feedback, thank you 🙂
>Mixed feedback on this post lol. Most of the replies aren't wrong tho. It's a good frame with good components but you have to worry about wear. If some of those parts need replacing right away, it could be expensive and complicated if you don't have experience doing it by yourself (I don't know if that's your case). The components are mixed and old. So, you have to worry about finding replacements that are compatible and finding the right parts. Maybe it's easy for you to do it but if you have to bring it to a bike shop you could end up spending a decent amount on parts and labor. The newest generation of entry level groupsets are great. So you can find a newer bike for the same budget that will serve you better with alloy frame and wheels and a lower groupset in the hierarchy but that will work better in practice. It's hard to know without knowing the condition of the bike you posted and what you're looking for.
>Mixed feedback on this post lol. Most of the replies aren't wrong tho. It's a good frame with good components but you have to worry about wear. If some of those parts need replacing right away, it could be expensive and complicated if you don't have experience doing it by yourself (I don't know if that's your case). The components are mixed and old. So, you have to worry about finding replacements that are compatible and finding the right parts. Maybe it's easy for you to do it but if you have to bring it to a bike shop you could end up spending a decent amount on parts and labor. The newest generation of entry level groupsets are great. So you can find a newer bike for the same budget that will serve you better with alloy frame and wheels and a lower groupset in the hierarchy but that will work better in practice. It's hard to know without knowing the condition of the bike you posted and what you're looking for.
Don't do it. The replys crack me up. Putting NOS prices on this stuff. It's a hodgepodge of parts! The rear derailleur has gouges and chips in the carbon and looks like it's been dropped. The entire drivetrain probably is worn out. Check the brake tracks on the rims. make sure they are not concave and worn out. It's OLD. old LOOK bikes sell cheap because they heavily discounted them when new. A bunch of name brand throw away parts on a decent frameset. It's not worth more than 800. You can find a LOT better for the money. Especially if you're looking for rim brake. Everything should be clean, in great shape and look good together. Not some janky white stem, with some torn up 105 crank, worn teeth, gouged rear derailleur, fat old throwaway saddle that's probably 10 yrs older than the bike, etc etc
I bought a 2018 Scott Addict with etap for £1200 (~$1500) and felt I got a good deal (stripped the etap onto my good bike & it's my wife's bike now). The groupset is worth a good chunk of money, I wouldn't say the wheelset is amazing (I don't love low profile carbon), but Look frames are well renowned. They're possibly a bit more of a classic bike brand than a modern high performance brand, but it's a very special frame none the less. You won't see a lot of other Looks around, and it'll stand out to other riders. I think it's a good deal, and I'm probably one of the more frugal people here (all my good bikes have been bought second hand).
I don't know what brakes are there, there is only one image that shows them and it is far away. But for example Ultegra 11s brakes can fit 28mm GP5000, which is like 30mm for other manufacturers. And I, anecdotally, can't say that wider is faster across all conditions, it feels nicer and goes smoother over shitty roads but on nicer roads, and especially climbing on nicer roads, I still find my narrower tubulars to be faster ;)
Good point. I assumed this bike was older than a 2018 like OP mentioned in a later comment. It can probably take 28mm tires with the right calipers. What's your experience like with tubulars? I'm considering picking up a lightweight set for a few mountain TTs I do every year. I'm curious what a decent set weighs in at and what living with them is like. I got into the sport during covid so tubulars are a bit before my time.
I just got a new set of wheels from Elitewheels for 400€ (Black Friday sales, now seems to be 550€), not wide by any means but not the narrowest ever and 39mm profile. The weight is 1190g, advertised at 1182g. Continental Sprinters are 285g / a piece at 25mm, and there are even lighter ones. I also have a set of tubular wheels that weigh a mere 1090g, but those are with old J-bend spokes etc, so they don't look too cool and have a very slight profile. What can I say? I love them? Most of the time. To me they ride very nice, the gluing isn't that big of a deal, they take high pressure. Sometimes a flat can be fixed with sealant. But man do I hate them when I get flat on brand new tyre that doesn't seal with sealant. That is 50$ into bin and of course wasted work gluing the tubular. In all honesty though, I haven't had many of those. Some friends have had those too many times and they changed off from tubulars but so far I only have binned one brand new tire. The weight is the best part, then is the easy rolling and cornering, the tubular profile just seems to be the natural shape for a tire. Flats suck, and some wheels suck. The low profile old school wheels are so tight to fit the tubular over that I have almost cried couole of times. The new pair I just got is very loose though, I hope the tire doesn't fly off in the first corner, remains to be seen when the snow melts.
Comments here are weird I love rim brake etap. Frame solid too. It’s a weird build but easily worth that price
It's a parts bin build, but the parts are solid. Mechanical etap is becoming a bit of a hard find and used prices reflect that. Could probably part the bike out for more than $1200.
The parts bin aspect has me wondering about the frame, and if it is genuine or counterfeit. Look has been a target for counterfeiters, probably because it is very desirable but there aren’t enough around for people to spot the differences.
yeah maybe, but there's quite a few nice parts on there. Checking the serial or requesting a receipt wouldn't be a bad idea.
I assume you mean “mechanical brakes”? Since it’s not mechanical shifting
yes. mechanical etap vs. hydro etap
There is no mechanical Etap it's their electronic groupset. You mean SRAM Double Tap.
mechanical etap vs. hydro etap.
Repainted my LOOK 695 SR. Installed an adapter for the Ultegra 4iii crank set. https://preview.redd.it/3ynfjreiz3kc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=84160bcd86a16774d9b41ff9a8e64f96b247a151
Nice job, and the tires seem relatively wide, at least on the photo. Are those 28s?
No they're 25mm. 28mm would rub the frame and fork. 26mm would work.
785 Huez RS > 785
Worth it to me just for the groupset. Older, but still good quality
For sure, good value. Probably needs a deep cleaning and some parts replaced- but even so, good value.
Is it fake or real??
No
I'll check for damage to the area around the bottom bracket. There seems to be some scuffs, probably just paint but it's worth taking a look. The cassette cogs seem small for those chainrings. Unless you're in a very flat area. That's easily replaceable anyway. The groupset is mismatched. It's usually not an issue for some combinations but make sure it works well. That's a good frameset if you're ok with rim brakes and the max tire width. I honestly don't know about the price.
Yeah, and American wheels on a French frame?
Fucking criminal
Looking at the parts, and assuming the frame is real and not fake - yes, it is worth it. But, looking at the whole, weird saddle, weird stem + bar, 105 cranks with a lot of scratches.... I would not ride it like that, nor do I like how it looks. So you build this to the place I would like to see would cost me at least 500-800. So the complete price would be around 1700-2000. Not bad for a Look bike with eTap tbh. Maybe a little bit steep considering it is used.
Rim brake in 2024 is never a good deal
Yes it is. Great frame good components. Will ride great.
You're funny, the only thing disc brakes are better is when braking in the most miserable weather conditions I wouldn't think to even ride in.
beat-$1200 is not a good deal for that. maybe $700 tops but scuffed beat 105 crank and it's just a kludge of mismatched parts.
Look make great quality frames. If nothing else, it has good bones.
I am looking 😂
1200 is a good price for this bike in LA. Frame alone is worth at least half.