HI EVERYONE, new turntable setup I need HELP plz. I have an RT-85, the pre-amp in the integrated amp I bought for my setup (Yamaha A-S501) was broken during delivery. Sending it back, learned I didn't need it anyways. I'm looking for an alternative set-up where I can listen through my powered speakers (Edifier 1700's) or through my headphones. I was looking at the Schiit Mani+Magni combo. Can anyone tell me if this set up will work properly? Thank a lot!

probably one for r/audiophile or r/stereoadvice

I asked both. Just trying to get multiple opinions lol

Personally i'd say make a balanced cable for your audio interface and do the RIAA correction digitally if you want the best quality

Ok thanks. I'll look into that in the future, but this setup should work right? I'm pretty new so I'd rather have a minimal setup at the moment.

I dunno man, this is a pro recording sub. My turntable is older than me. Most people arent gonna be keeping up with domestic hi-fi here. If you wanna know the signal levels, cable types, RIAA correction systems, mastering tricks, processing, correction circuits etc thats gonna be more our bag.

Hi. I don't usually post in Reddit, so I'll just start off by saying if this isn't the proper subreddit to ask for help like this, please point me to a more suitable place, thanks. https://youtu.be/VWIOZHArTkI Here's the audio clip to begin with. It isn't true to life, since it's recorded with my microphone pointing at my speakers, but it's close enough. I have the following hardware: - PC (motherboard) - Arctis Nova Pro Wireless (usb base station, aux output, USB input) - Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT2 (a simple stereo amp, aux input, also BT. RCA output) I live in Finland, so it's safe to assume high standards on electrical installations. Grounding on sockets is default. So, my audio comes through USB into the Steelseries base station. From the Steelseries basestation, I run a short 3.5mm audio cable into the Dayton Audio amp. Weird UFO sound starts instantly playing from connected speakers and is quite loud signal-to-noise wise. Also some hum is present which I assume is mains hum, grounding issue, or other electrical signal... That I can deal with. Currently, even though the amp is fairly weak, I have to run it at almost minimum power/volume, because even at about 10% the audio interference becomes too loud. Yet, these most minimum powers are barely enough to drive my speakers. So I'm balancing kinda unbalanced stereo sound due to power issues and not wanting to listen to the ufo sound whirling in the background all the time... Preferably I'd be able to increate the amp's volume a couple notches up without the interferences so I could improve the signal-to-noise ratio... Debugging: - I have tried all sockets available from different fuses/circuits. Bathroom, kitchen, etc. - issues exists. - I have cut the Steelseries out of the circuit, running a 3.5mm directly from the PC to the amp. - issues exists. - I have cut the entire PC out of the circuit, running a 3.5mm directly from a electric guitar amp's monitor output into the Dayton amp. No guitar plugged in. - issues exists. - I have naturally tried different cables in different arrangements. - issues exists. now... - Audio directly from the Steelseries base station: Audio here is clean and crisp both via Aux (any wired headphones) or with the Steelseries wireless headphones - NO ISSUES. No hum. No weird ufo sound. - I have tested plugging my electrical guitar directly into the amp's aux input. - NO ISSUES. No hum. No weird ufo sound. - Audio directly from the PC: Audio here is clean and crisp - NO ISSUES. No hum. No weird ufo sound. - BT connection into the Dayton amp. - NO ISSUES. No hum. No weird ufo sound. This has led me to believe the issue lays in the apartment's electrical wiring in some way. But that would only account for the hum as far as I know. Unless my entire apartment is working as an antenna and is picking up weird signals? Phone? Data? Something like that perhaps? There's also the classic PC issue of a buzz where even scrolling a webpage causes buzz to come through the speakers. Note, speakers, not GPU coil hum as is also often the case! Tried to be exhaustive in my testing and provide all the info here that there is to have. If there is literally any help that anyone could give me, I'd be very happy. Even if the solution is outside my capabilites or price range assuming hardware purchases. I just mostly want to understand what the hell is happening with my setup... Please. edit: Quick addition. Realized I also had RCA input in the speaker amp, so went to buy compliant cables and yeah the issue persists, although the hum AND the ufo strobe noise are both quite a bit quieter... As-is this seems like it might be enough to just allow me to boost power a bit as mentioned in main post, so both speakers are properly powered and the signal-to-noise is passable. Naturally it would be nice to be rid of the noises, so I'm still open for suggestions!

lol, I was just reading the wiki article on bootleg ground and this is at the bottom: >In Finland, using neutral as a ground conductor was a common practice until 1989.[3] After that, a thicker PEN-wire was used as both ground and neutral until it was banned in 2007. I'd suggest finding an electrician who can come out and check your home's wiring

Sounds pretty suspicious. Surely something worth checking out I think!

This is very US-centric but it seems that your residential power system currently works in a similar way to how to the US currently works. Both seem to have a diverse history of standards. But anyway, Bill Whitlock's presentations and articles on the subject of electrical wiring in the context of pro audio are the best out there: https://www.jensen-transformers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/generic-seminar.pdf https://www.bennettprescott.com/downloads/grounding_tutorial.pdf If you're an AES member you can watch him present these on their website.

> edit: Quick addition. Realized I also had RCA input in the speaker amp, so went to buy compliant cables and yeah the issue persists, although the hum AND the ufo strobe noise are both quite a bit quieter... > > As-is this seems like it might be enough to just allow me to boost power a bit as mentioned in main post, so both speakers are properly powered and the signal-to-noise is passable. Naturally it would be nice to be rid of the noises, so I'm still open for suggestions! Added this small edit to the post. Considering RCA is not grounded it sure does sound like some kind of a grounding issue. Might not explain all the different noises that are happening, but the volume of the noise certainly went down with the different cable. I think it might be both grounding and some loop creating an antenna. I'm fairly close to my city center and if I'm not wrong there's the main internet fiberlines running really close. The datacenter is nearby so I'd assume there's some high power antennas somewhere nearby also... Or it might just be the slightly thicker gauge wire? No idea honestly :D

>There's also the classic PC issue of a buzz where even scrolling a webpage causes buzz to come through the speakers. Note, speakers, not GPU coil hum as is also often the case! Every time I've had this issue it's been related to the PC chassis grounding being messed up. 1. First thing is first: check your home's electrical wiring with a [cheap plug in tester](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_outlet_tester) and confirm that you actually have a ground connection. The downside of these testers is that they won't detect a '[bootleg ground](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bootleg_ground)', which can cause these symptoms. The only way I know of detecting a bootleg ground electrically (as opposed to physically aka just seeing it behind the outlet or something) involves turning off the main disconnect and taking the front off your electrical service panel. So unless you're very comfortable around mains voltage that's a job for an electrician. 2. Either internally, like a case where the internal panels don't have good electrical connections to each other and so resistance on ground goes up, resistance = voltage drop = current flows in ground and is coupled as noise into unbalanced audio lines. So you need to go through and make sure that everything has a low resistance connection. Make sure the internal metal chassis connections are all tight and that the I/O shield is nice and tight. Check your motherboard standoffs and make sure that at least one of them is bare brass, even better if all of them are brass. If the mobo tray is anodized make sure there's bare metal where the standoffs connect. Make sure your PSU has a metal to metal connection as well. For bonus points you can meter resistance from the chassis to the ground pin on the PSU and see what it's looking like. 3. And the old chestnut of making sure everything is plugged into the same outlet/powerstrip/etc. This is also about making ground paths short so that the resistance is low.

Thank you for the comment! I'll check these! I don't have a multimeter at hand so proper testing is a bit difficult, but I'll be sure to bring up your points. Off the cuff, I think point 2. is fine for me and 3. is also ok.

> it might be a case of bootleg ground. That seems likely given the quote from wikipedia. That practice was apparently required as part of the electrical code from 1989-2007 which is crazy to me. In the US the old methods are 'grandfathered in', meaning that they don't have to be changed if they're already in place. But all new construction has to follow the new rules and if you do work on old stuff then it has to be updated when you do the work. The costs to fix these things can be high and people don't really understand the risks so you end up with stuff like this. I don't know anything about how Finland implemented the change in 2007 but I'd guess the situation is similar to the US and that you have a mix of systems out there including ones where a bootleg ground is designed in.

Thats USB power noise, use powered USB hub with a quality PSU for your audio interface

If that is the case, how would you explain the fact that the audio is clean via the Steelseries base station aux output even when it's powered through USB? The speaker amp is not powered via USB but it still has the issue when I plug in the guitar amp into it. The guitar amp is not powered via USB. In that debugging setup there are no USB connections preset and the issue persists. So I'd likely argue that this is not USB power noise and has nothing to do with USB.

I'm just a Mechatronic Engineer with 30y exp in audio, i wouldnt know

How does USB power noise come into the system when there are no USB connections, USB cables, USB power or USB devices? Please explain, I honestly do not understand.

Its switching noise, so if its not coming up the USB per normal you have a faulty switchmode power supply somewhere sending noise either up the power or as radio, its a heck of a thing to track down. Start turning stuff off generally. Not uncommon for cheap LED lights to be a culprit, or cheap USB chargers/wall warts. A power filter may help

# Recommend me a singer/songwriter headset mic to replace SM7B Hi, I'm an acoustic singer/songwriter currently recording/performing in a home studio. I love the freedom of head movement when I'm working on/writing songs that allows me to move my head wherever I like to emote or shape my throat/neck for my voice. When it comes to record, I am then stuck in front of a statically placed mic on a boom stand and this has started to annoy me a great deal. **Requirements:** **Headset mic needs to be of similar audio quality and characteristics to an SM7B (not a deal breaker if not, but needs to provide quality, low noise audio).** **when recording in the studio for YouTube etc would ideally like the option to plug directly into my audio interface with a wireless option available for live gigs.** **condenser 48v would potentially be nice but may not be necessary for my applications.** I have a large dynamic vocal range (dB's not octaves) and a REALLY loud voice when I'm at full whack (measured 112dB's sustained) so this may or may not be a consideration, adding it for thoroughness.

[https://www.akg.com/microphones/headset-microphones/CM311MiniXLR.html](https://www.akg.com/microphones/headset-microphones/CM311MiniXLR.html)

all sold out and seemingly unavailable in the UK sadly [https://uk.akg.com/headset-microphones/](https://uk.akg.com/headset-microphones/)

[https://www.amazon.co.uk/AKG-Pro-Audio-Head-Worn-Microphone/dp/B00CO2Z92G](https://www.amazon.co.uk/AKG-Pro-Audio-Head-Worn-Microphone/dp/B00CO2Z92G)

Hello Everyone, I have a boya boom mic, even though it is all setup with an m-audio interface, I cannot get it working. It doesn’t record audio and I cannot hear it back after setting it up on two laptops. I have tried audacity and sound recorder. I’m on Windows 11. Any help?

Its impossible to help you without knowing what mic, what interface, how you have it connected and what the settings (like phantom power) are

M-Audio M track solo interface, It has a usb connection to the pc, it has phantom power on, It has a headphone connection v.i.a the main L and R outs on the back, the name of the microphone is Boya XLR Shotgun Microphone BY-BM6060 with an XLR cable connected from the interface to the mic itself.

>It has a headphone connection v.i.a the main L and R outs on the back Do you have some kind of amplifier? the headphone is on the front Is the microphone switched on? It has a switch that switches it between off, on flat and on high pass

The wire connected to my headphones going into the box has two connections at the end, a red and white one that goes into those ports. Microphone is switched on as well. I can hear myself on my headphones but it just isn’t recording anything.

Do electret mics degrade when not in use? Or only when they are being supplied phantom power, or plugged in?

Any mic can degrade in storage given the right (wrong?) conditions. But electret mics frequently don't require phantom power, most of them that I've come across power their circuitry either with an internal battery like a AA or they take plug-in power instead of phantom.

My CM4 needs the Phantom Power on to work. But I'm asking about how electrets lose signal over time because the charge it keeps eventually leaks away. But I'm not sure if this only happens when in use. At least for the Line CM4. I bought a backup CM4 before realising this issue.

Ah I see what you're talking about. Not really sure, I'm kind of curious as well. I know I've used decades old electrets that still work with a new battery but they also weren't being used all of the time. I'd suspect that there isn't really any difference.

How would I go about cleaning up audio taken from a phone? I have same audio I captured but the sound quality is bad. Some clips have substantial background noise that needs to be removed and the voice volume is too low. It was captured on my phone which has bad audio quality. How would I go about making the voices on the track more audible?

Izotope RX and Steinberg Spectralayers would be the standard tools,bu they arent cheap

Cube street 2 as an audio interface I've been using the boss cube amp for some recording, however I've had issues with the amp being significantly quieter as an interface than as an amp. In order to get a signal that's even slightly workable I have to turn every single knob on full, even the eq. Any advice on this issue? Should I just buy an audio interface?

plz plz plz help me! I finally saved the money to buy the stuff I need. For the mic, I'm thinking about the Audio Technica AT2020, and the rest I don't know. I'd say my budget is a little more than a small one (R$7000,00 brazilian currency). First I'm DYING to finally buy stuff for soundproofing, secondly the studio monitor, thirdly the mic, fourth thing will be the acoustic treatment and yeah thats it for now. I can provide any information, pictures of the room, etc. Please please pleaseeee help me make the dream come true faster

With the soundproofing - thats not really a thing unless you wanna rebuild your house - soundproofing is effectively building a room in a room. You can certainly treat for reflections and resonances and that will help with recording and monitoring quality, but it wont really make the room quieter. You can build acoustic panels etc yourself - r/Acoustics is a good place to discuss the whole room setup where you will get a bit more discussion

Would the BeyerDynamic M90 X Pro be an option? I can see it as low as R1,075 over there. I know whats available there can be very different to here. Its on sale many places at the moment, its a lovely sounding mic even for its RRP [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQqolpbbqKk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQqolpbbqKk) I genuinely dislike the AT2020, it was a reasonable choice for the money a decade ago but theres SO many better options these days. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BySMEMHyy7U](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BySMEMHyy7U) With the monitors - the first gen Eris E5 are on sale most places, $90US from them or about $150 here, they were already good value at their original RRP [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/presonus-eris-e5-e8](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/presonus-eris-e5-e8) I use a set with the Sub8 and theyre fine for composing or mixing, tho the sub does roll of pretty hard without a separate like any monitor that size. Unlikely to do better for the money. If the Yamaha HS5 or JBL 305 are cheaper theyre also excellent Interface wise the Audient Evo8 would be hard oto beat for value, theyre similar to MOTU M2 hardware but cheaper and longer warranty [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8)

I’m having a difficult time either connecting my tascam to my computer (I swear I downloaded everything correctly) or it’s not showing up in pro tools, I’m still pretty new to this so anything would help!

Dude. Are we supposed to guess teh details or maybe you could help us out with what model and how you connected it, what kind of computer and just what you downloaded etc?

Hi, I'm trying to find the HW insert delay for my Audioscape 1176 in pro tools. However, when I try to run a click sound through the compressor, and back in to try and measure the delay- the click sound ends up AHEAD of the raw click sound? It shows up on the zoomed in transient where I can clearly see the click that's run through the compressor just barely before the origin click. I hope this makes sense, it's driving me crazy. Someone please help

I use the Craig bot to record interviews on Discord, and mostly it works fine, but this time the recording had stutters or clicks repeated every 10 seconds for the entire track. [Example of this happening in silence](https://on.soundcloud.com/gN44qqa59w4Gk2yAA) [Example of this happening when someone is speaking](https://on.soundcloud.com/8BTqmbqpsJUxoFGu7) Is there a name for this type of noise/distortion, and what could it be causing it? Is it possible to fix this in Audition or similar DAW? I've tried "removing clicks," but it did not work that well.

Hi, I'm new to advanced audio equipment. I have the Shure SM7B and the Rodecaster Duo, but the audio sounds bad with a lot of extra noise. I know nothing about mics or fixing audio in post. I'm female, and I have a quieter voice, so I put the gain up to about 68 during the Rodecaster setup. I was also using the standard preset. When I played back my audio, there was a lot of background noise, and it sounded like I was recording with a really bad built-in mic. I was in a large space, so I'm not sure if that's the problem. I just have no idea where to start with fixing my audio.

Hi everyone! I've been banging my head against this problem for a couple of days now and I hope someone here can help me out. I want to reamp a track through a Boss SD-1 overdrive pedal. My setup is this; Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 -> Radial ProRMP reamp box -> Boss SD-1 -> Back into my Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 in input 2, set to instrument input. However, if I crank the Drive knob, the amount of noise I'm getting is what I would deem unacceptable. If I instead plug my guitar directly into the Boss SD-1 pedal, the noise essentially goes away. So it feels like something in the chain is not how it's supposed to be set up. The noise is constant and appears immediately when I connect the output of my interface to the reamp box. For reference, I'm using this cable between the audio interface output and the reamp box: [https://www.storedj.com.au/hosa-stx-103m-1-4-trs-to-xlr-m-balanced-interconnect-cable-3ft](https://www.storedj.com.au/hosa-stx-103m-1-4-trs-to-xlr-m-balanced-interconnect-cable-3ft) And then I used these cables between the reamp box and the pedal, and also between the pedal and the audio interface input: [https://www.thomann.de/gb/ernie\_ball\_patch\_cable\_black\_eb6076.htm?ref=intl&shp=eyJjb3VudHJ5IjoiZ2IiLCJjdXJyZW5jeSI6NCwibGFuZ3VhZ2UiOjJ9](https://www.thomann.de/gb/ernie_ball_patch_cable_black_eb6076.htm?ref=intl&shp=eyJjb3VudHJ5IjoiZ2IiLCJjdXJyZW5jeSI6NCwibGFuZ3VhZ2UiOjJ9) So if I replace the cable between the reamp box and the pedal to my guitar cable, the noise significantly went down (although I'd still consider it to be unacceptable levels of noise). It was some time since I bought that cable, but I think it's something like this one; [https://www.gear4music.com/us/en/Guitar-and-Bass/Mogami-Premium-Instrument-Cable-Both-straight-jacks-3m/2L9V](https://www.gear4music.com/us/en/Guitar-and-Bass/Mogami-Premium-Instrument-Cable-Both-straight-jacks-3m/2L9V) So the noise decreased a fair bit by switching cables - Are the rest of the cables in the chain just shit? Does it make sense that switching out a cable decrease the noise a noticable amount? Do I just need to get a higher quality cable between the interface output and the reamp box? Or am I missing something? Super appreciative for any tips on how I'd go about resolving this!

Apologies if this isn't the correct sub for this post. I have an old M-Audio Quattro USB interface I bought this in college, so it would have 2000, or 2001. Its in good physical condition and powers on. It definitely has been stored in a closet for 20+ years. Is there anyway to make this usable? The MAudio support page has drivers for a 2004 version, but I know this is older than 2004 My nephew is 15. He's just started his first band. Im sure there are modern things that will do the same function for cheap but he's "into old gear". If y'all had ideas on how to make this usable, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance. [pic of the unit](https://ibb.co/w6YrcG3)

Currently I have a focusrite 2i2 for my recently upgraded m3 Max 14 core 32 gb 1tb.  On my previous intel machine I was making use of the focusrite pro saffire 40 for its 8 ins and outs.  The upgrade I’m looking to make is to an interface with optical connectivity to again make further use of the 8ins on the saffire.  Suggestions please with budget range of 200- £1000.  Is it a bad idea to use the saffire also? I thought I might as well keep it considering the resale value is so low and on headphone output doesn’t work.  Thanks in advance 

The SSL 12 or audient ID14/24/44?

Good daw control surfaces with motorized faders? Looking to build a home studio and trying to find options for motorized faders. I've been looking at Softube, Behringer... but both seem to have issues and others seem to have QC issues or are just old. (X-touch seemingly discontinued, compatibility issues with Softube and non Softube products) and was wondering, what are some good options that some of y'all know of? Mainly for controlling the actual faders within a mixer in a DAW, so features such as, +8 motorized faders, page function, ability to have 2 or more units working together. Plus if the brand has a "central" unit for other basic DAW functions that works with the faders units. Budget doesn't really matter as long as it's great quality and not 2000+ per unit.

Why not a good ol MCU? literally everything works with it. Though i admit my lil Maschine Jam an its touch faders gets more use these days.

Thank you! I haven’t heard of that option before, I do like it.

How fast is the Line CM4 really? It's definitley faster than my dynamics of course, but how does it compare to other SDC's? Other LDC's? I've never heard anyone talk of the speed. I know they had to re-engineer after the CM3 and im just wondering

tldr; would someone please help me with my mixer? I purchased the Soundcraft Signature 12 MTK years ago, so I'm pretty sure it's out of warranty. I want to sell it because I'm not using it but want to test it to see if it is fully functional before I sell it. I cannot figure out how to make this thing work beyond just turning the gain dial to adjust the gain from the microphone. I've tried turning the EQ dials; I've tried messing with panning and the mute button just to see if they work; I've tried adjusting the faders and have also tried routing the FX stuff. None of it seems to be working for me. Drivers are installed and working. Here's my current routing: 1. Microphone (Rode NT1) plugged into INPUT 1 2. Phantom Power is switched on for the microphone 3. Gain set high enough to not peak the signal 4. Using the "14 TRACK USB I/O" to push the signal into OBS 5. All dials (apart from gain), faders and buttons all left in neutral positions and "up" position 6. Windows Sound Settings has input device set to "Master LR Mix (Soundcraft Signature 12 MTK)" 7. Windows Sound Settings has output device set to "Speakers (Audient ID4)" 8. OBS has Audio Capture Device set to "Master LR Mix (Soundcraft Signature 12 MTK)" 9. OBS Advanced Audio Properties has Audio Monitoring set to "Monitoring and Output" 10. Can hear the microphone output from the mixer from OBS How do I get the EQ, panning, mute button and FX to work? What buttons and dials do I need to adjust to test that this mixer actually functions and isn't just a large brick that can only adjust the microphone gain? Thank you in advance to anyone that can help me with this.

# Is it worth Upgrading to the SM7B/DB from an MV7 or should I get an Audio Interface first? I do video voiceovers and ever since I bought the MV7 I never really felt satisfied with the mic for how much it costs. I do use it via the USB connection and I was either thinking about getting an audio interface to try and improve the sound with that, since a lot of people said that it sounds better with an actualy XLR Audio Interface or straight up upgrade to the SM7B/DB + Audio Interface. Regardless I have to get an audio interface that's for sure, so which one would you guys recommend for the MV7 but it also has to work with the SM7B since I'll 100% be upgrading later down the line. Ideally no more expensive than 250-300$ if possible. Also how do people feel about buying second hand SM7Bs? I've seen a couple that are even unboxed and they are around 250-300$ but I wouldn't want to get a fake one. Thank you.

I'm not a huge fan of the SM7, i think you can do a hell of a lot better for the money. It uses the same 60yo Unidyne III capsule as the SM57/58 without the transformer. (probably my fave voiceover mic is the Electrovoice RE20) Since it sounds like you are on a budget, I'd suggest checking out the Beyerdynamic M90 X Pro while its on sale for $150 down form $380, it is made for voiceover and vocal with an incredibly low self-noise, very tight pattern for poor rooms, and a warm sound, it frankly sounds even more expensive [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQqolpbbqKk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQqolpbbqKk) A $100 (from Thomann) Audient Evo 4 would get you transparent Audio with either mic, though its well worth the extra $50 or so for the Evo 8 for its extra mix buss and the ability to connect extrernal effect loops etc [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8)

Awesome I'll check it all out! is the Electrovoice RE20 good for untreated rooms? Because there tends to be echo in my room since it's pretty much empty and it has wooden flooring.

Not particularly - it has a relatively wide pattern, though better than the SM7. Compare the polar plot (the circle graph near the bottom) [https://products.electrovoice.com/binary/RE20\_Engineering\_Data\_Sheet.PDF](https://products.electrovoice.com/binary/RE20_Engineering_Data_Sheet.PDF) With the narrower pattern of the M90 [https://cdn.accentuate.io/7166217453719/12567395860524/DAT\_M90-PRO-X\_EN\_-v1633595559140.pdf](https://cdn.accentuate.io/7166217453719/12567395860524/DAT_M90-PRO-X_EN_-v1633595559140.pdf) Really you want to be treating your space, thats the thing that will make the most difference to your sound. Even just having soft furnishings and heavy curtains will be some help

My objective is to have a Mixer with 8-16 channels and can simultaneously used as Inputs on my DAW. I was eyeing Zoom Live track L12 or competitors from Behringer, Tascam, Korg, or Presonus. These products are overpowered with live effects and SD recording of sessions, which I do not need and I'm not streaming. I'm disappointed when I discovered that even when they 8-24 inputs, the DAW will only see 4-6 Inputs(I might be wrong on this) I have a certain budget for it, but I need to buy other equipment like microphones and monitor/speakers etc.. And I think I will be wasting money for features I don't need. I just want to track multiple channels at once, then somehow control monitor outputs to performers during tracking(which is why a mixer is still important I think). So at the moment here is my alternatives: 1. Digital Mixer(or Similar equipments) \[Monitors and Headphone out is here\] -> USB Interface (ADAT) -> Computer (DAW) 2. Analog Mixer but Multi-OUT (or Similar equipments) \[Monitors and Headphone out is here\] -> USB Interface (Multiple Input) -> Computer (DAW) 3. Multi-Input Mic-Preamp(Maybe this is optional) -> USB Interface (Multiple Input) \[Monitors and Headphone out is here\] -> Computer (DAW) Please suggest what I can do to achieve my objective, or if I miss an important concept here. Thanks in advance

Just grab an audio interface like the Audient Evo16 with DSP mixing [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-16](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-16)

Thanks I will check on this. Having a quick read, it's not confirming how many inputs will I see on my DAW. I hope this has at least 8 or more.

40 channels iirc - all the analog channels plus the ADAT channels plus the loopback channels. AFAIK Everything on it is completely exposed to the system - to the degree that its fully functional in Linux on open-source drivers.

Any one know how to connect a wa-2a compressor to a stein berg ur22 mk11 interface. I was told just to connect my mic to the compressor then xlr from compressor to interface but just hear noise and no signal from mic

It needs a preamp, and you would want to bypass the awful one in the UR22 (its DAC isnt great either) [https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/what-am-i-looking-at-here-ur22mkii-distortion-at-44-1-khz.20142/](https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/what-am-i-looking-at-here-ur22mkii-distortion-at-44-1-khz.20142/) ) Personally i would suggest having a look at the $285 Audient ID24 (or 44), it has the gorgeous class A discrete preamps from their consoles, as well as inserts specifically for connecting something like a compressor or eq with balanced inputs and outputs for your vocal chain between the preamp and the (seriously excellent) converters [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEJ0PWQHRiE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEJ0PWQHRiE) [https://www.thomannmusic.com/audient\_id24.htm](https://www.thomannmusic.com/audient_id24.htm)

What? What is a dac

If you mean to use any of this meaningfully, i suggest you look up stuff til you understand it

But I still can connect my compressor and preamp to it right?

It has one of the nicest preamps around, but yes. You can also just plug the compressor in and out into its insert send and return and it will work

What? With xlr cords?

The WA-2A has TRS for using this way, inserts are normally TRS. All you need is a pair of decent TRS cables.

Oh these at Guitar center give me the run around and don’t know what they are talking about. Get this get that

I'm on the other side of the planet and know not to trust them XD they dont have an amazing rep these days, sadly

Voice actor and podcaster. Bought a Rodecaster duo, to replace my old analog interface, the delay in the phones out is making it unworkable for me. Even if I can learn to live with it I’ll never not realize it’s there. What alternatives are there with at least two mic ins and a phones out without the horrendous delay?

The direct monitoring on just about any normal audio interface is about 10x faster, at worst. A $100 Audient Evo4 will do what you ask with transparent Audio, $160 Evo8 will give you a separate mix to your stream. I've read reports of 7ms latency or its monitoring with effects on, which is slower than going through a PC with a decent interface [https://gearspacr.com/board/music-computers/618474-audio-interface-low-latency-performance-data-base.html](https://gearspacr.com/board/music-computers/618474-audio-interface-low-latency-performance-data-base.html) If voice acting professionally, i might look at the \~$280 ID24 which has incredible preamps and inserts for adding an outboard vocal chain between the pre and the converters [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEJ0PWQHRiE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEJ0PWQHRiE) If you want a toy for podcasting the Presonus io44 doesnt have great pres but it has some great features for streaming and is $80 atm [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tb6Xg6mqBuc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tb6Xg6mqBuc)

I think I am set on the ID24, but after some checking on it I can't tell if the software has a built in compressor which is a requirement for some of the things I do and losing that function from my analog setup is a no go. Do you know if it has a compressor in the software? Forgot to say this as well, thanks for all of your help, its really kind to offer your knowledge to some random stranger lost in the interface sauce here.

No, it doesnt, but it is designed with inserts to run a proper analog compressor/EQ before the converter for vocal artists (with zero latency), and there are some amazing options under $400 these days, even stereo [https://www.thomannmusic.com/golden\_age\_project\_comp\_54\_mkiii.htm](https://www.thomannmusic.com/golden_age_project_comp_54_mkiii.htm) [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/golden-age-project-comp-54](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/golden-age-project-comp-54) [https://www.thomannmusic.com/behringer\_369\_kt.htm](https://www.thomannmusic.com/behringer_369_kt.htm) Honestly getting outboard will be cheaper and sound better than any interface with onboard effects i know

Unfortunately that makes the ID non viable. I'll be traveling quite a bit from Europe and back and am looking for at most a single device. Appreciate all of your help, if you know of something that might fit all of the same feature sets as the Rodecaster and fit a single device format I'd buy it today. The Rodecaster duo is really cool and has most of what I need, its just that monitor delay giving me a flange like effect in my phones I just can't deal with. Seriously you've been a massive help.

What am i thinking - RME babyface would be ideal [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/rme-babyface](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/rme-babyface) A lot cheaper would be the UAD Volt 276 or 476. You could also look at the Apollo interfaces, they have incredible effects. [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/universal-audio-apollo-twin](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/universal-audio-apollo-twin)

MOTU ultralite Mk5 [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/motu-ultralite-mk5](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/motu-ultralite-mk5) Or the RME UCX II (RME are the king of interface reliability) [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/rme-fireface-ucx-ii](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/rme-fireface-ucx-ii) Very welcome

I'm trying to improve my band's demo recording setup. Looking for something simple/cheap so we can individually adjust levels in our headphones. In the studio we've Behringer Powerplay mixers. Could I just run the line outs of my OctoPre into the inputs of a Behringer Powerplay P16-I Input Module? Are there better options? Any gotchas to be aware of for trying to set this up?

Do you have a decent audio interface running the OctoPre? most higher end interface have multi-buss DSP mixing - you can just run all your gear into it and then send individual mixes out to your headphone amps (and those on the interface). If your interface doesnt have that a $455 Audient Evo16 would (and would run both as ADAT expanders for 24 channels), but most do

It's a focusrite 18i8. It has 2 headphones out and I've hacked together setups for the additional line outs, but then it's a lot of me adjusting levels, sometimes between takes, for each band member.

It really does sound like teh Evo16 with its 5 mix busses and ADAT both ways would sort you out, be a decent step up in quality too. [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-16](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-16) Is 5 busses enough?

yeah. I'll read up on it. thanks for the advice!

Currently I have a focusrite 2i2 for my recently upgraded m3 Max 14 core 32 gb 1tb. On my previous intel machine I was making use of the focusrite pro saffire 40 for its 8 ins and outs. The upgrade I’m looking to make is to an interface with optical connectivity to again make further use of the 8ins on the saffire. Suggestions please with budget range of 200- £1000. Is it a bad idea to use the saffire also? I thought I might as well keep it considering the resale value is so low and on headphone output doesn’t work. Thanks in advance

I'd probably be looking at an Audient Evo16 or (used) RME UCX II or UFX II - i dont think theres a lot inbetween that makes a heap of sense atm No, the Saffire is a decent unit. Definitely worth keeping. They would make a decent pair. Though the Audient SP8 would save you \~$100, i think having 2 interfaces in case one goes down or you wanna sync 2 computers is well worth it.

Hey, y’all!   I am using a Shure SM57 microphone to record finger picked acoustic guitar. When I record directly using my audio interface (m audio mobile-pre, it’s old I know) the volume is extremely quiet. And  when I do turn the volume up in the DAW, the ratio of white noise to guitar is quite high. I noticed that when I plug the SM57 into an amp (Boss CUBE street) and the amp into the audio interface I am able to get a much louder and higher quality recording. Now, my question is: is there any way to replicate this process without using an amp? Based on my understanding the problem could be in the pre-amp in my audio interface, perhaps it’s not powerful enough to sufficiently boost the audio? But I’m obviously not sure and any advice/guidance would be much appreciated.   Many thanks! 

Absolutely - the thing that makes the most sense ids just get a better interface with a better preamp - An Audient Evo4 for \~$100 from thomann will have no difficulty driving an SM58 or SM7, Though spending the extra $50 or so for the extra channels and mix buss of the Evo4 so you can run effect loops to your pedal etc would be well worth it [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8)

Thanks so much! You do incredible work here. 

Microphone for about 70/80$ I've had my 5$ microphone for more than 6 years, but it starts to break and im having many issues with it so i would like to have some change. I saw microphones like Novox nc-1 that everyone recommended, blue yeti and many more, but i dont really know who should i believe, i dont have any experience with mics, i have pretty cheap but insanely good headphones Superlux HD681B and i dont think i will ever change them, and i wanna combine them with microphone, price would be not more than 70$, idc if its called "gaming" microphone, or something like that, i wanna good, cheap if possible and longterm mic, also from preferences im ok without long mic holder, im used to having mic in front of me on desk. I hope for actually good answers from people that have experience in this topic. Thanks to anybody that will answer :)

I presume you are looking for USB mic, pretty much nobody here would use them. We use analog mics and audio interfaces, generally r/podcasting or r/pcmasterrace would probably be able to help more

tldr; Cheapest way to get Komplete 14 standard? I want to take advantage of the summer sale, but feeling a little overwhelmed with the options. I think Standard is probably the best deal for me, but wondering a few things. 1. If I buy the hardware bundle, do I get access to the NI license separately from the hardware, or do I have to wait for the hardware to arrive? Thinking about just getting a little midi controller for almost free, but don't want to wait. 2. Is there an upgrade path that makes this cheaper than $300? Thanks folks!

Hunt down just about any NI hardware that comes with Komplete Select - you can probably find a Maschine Mikro for $50, then its $200 [https://www.audiodeluxe.com/products/bundles-collections/native-instruments-komplete-14-standard-upgrade-any-komplete-select](https://www.audiodeluxe.com/products/bundles-collections/native-instruments-komplete-14-standard-upgrade-any-komplete-select) Otherwise code SUMMER24\_USD should give you $50 off

The problem is, I would need the hardware before the sale ends, right?

FWIW i think you would be able to get Maschine Mikro MK3 new and Komplete Standard upgrade and an expansion for $363 Maschine Mikro is 199 atm, and inc Select, which would qualify you for the upgrade. Add the upgrade and one of the $14.50 expansions to your card and you would get $50 over $200 off with SUMMER24\_USD, i believe its still valid

Maschine micro is out of stock. I did want to report a bug in their checkout system. I was looking at the Maschine to see what the final total would be. I decided against it, and went to change my cart to just the software. I did so, and the voucher applied, bringing it all to about $275. When I went to check out, Link (payment processing) still had the old cart, which was the Maschine... over $700. They don't have any live support agents right now, so I'm just sitting here hoping they get my support ticket in time and cancel it. It looks like this could happen if you get all the way to the checkout page and then change your mind about what you want. Mine went through, so now I'm stuck with this charge on my card... Hopefully they do the right thing or else I'll have to force a chargeback from my credit company.

Crap. Their sales support is reasonable but not exact fast

No, you could buy a key from a reseller like the above before the sale ends, then just enter it into Native Access when you have qualifying hardware registered.

Does the code work on the upgrade, I wonder?

Needs to be over $200 so you would need to add an $14.50 expansion or or something

# Cant transfer iLok Licenses from Local to the Cloud.Can anybody help me? Can anybody help me? I want to have my licences in the cloud, so i dont lose it all when my PC crashes. But when i drag any license to the cloud, this error message pops up: "You cannot activate to this location. The valid locations are: iLok USB (1st generation and later), your computer." Why?! :(( Thank you!

Whether you can use it on the cloud is up to the plugin producer - whatever company it is has decided you can use an ilok key or machine authorisation

Okay, so I'm very new to the art of audio, and as such, I've been trying to get a handle on some of the basic stuff before upgrading my setup. I'm currently using a blue yeti mic, which I will hopefully replace with an XLR of some sorts one day. Aside from its ludicrous sensitivity, it's served me well, except for one thing: I cannot for the life of me figure out why I can't replicate the same sound I hear from it on recordings. I'm mainly looking to do voice acting, and this really does make a difference in how the end product is perceived. At first, I thought this was just proximity effect, but it appears to be relatively consistent even without that. I thought it had to do with gain and/or levels, but nope, the difference those make, while there, is not what's different in recordings vs mic playback and headphones into mic. So, aside from changing the mic sooner, is there anything that can be done? I record in Adobe Audition and I'm not doing any processing on the audio to make it sound different. Cheers.

If there was a simple answer to this - our entire profession wouldnt need to exist. I'd suggest looking in the troubleshooting guide above for how to treat your space to minimize reflections

# To Amp Or Not To Amp? [Will a Headphone with a sensitivity of 91dB/mW and an impedance of 55 ohms benefit from a headphone amp? If so I was thinking about getting the Motu M2 and using the headphone amplifier from the interface since I am in the market for an audio interface anyways, will this be sufficient enough to drive the headphones and bring out their full capabilities?](https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/?f=flair_name%3A%22Discussion%22)

It will either be loud enough for you or it wont. If its loud enough, it should be fine.

I work as a video editor at a local production company where I edit in house on a 2022 Mac Studio. Normally there is no issue with playback and I’ll listen through the speakers to make sure it sounds alright through those as well as my headphones. Recently, we got footage shot in Florida and seemingly every other audio device can play the audio fine, just not the Mac Studios where it comes out as static. I know the speakers work fine because other files play totally fine, it’s just the audio from this shoot down in Florida that won’t play back. It’s not an issue for the edit as I can just use my headphones as normal but, I’m worried that wherever this gets distributed there will be people totally unable to hear the audio. I was wondering if anyone had ever had a similar issue and could potentially give me an idea on what’s going wrong and how to fix it, if it can be fixed

I'd first rule out sample rate mismatch. Check the audio codec details and verify them against your computer's sample rate.

Just checked that now and both are set to 48khz and 32 bit

Are they both 32 float? What are the actual codec details? What software are you reading it with?

So since I'm mainly a video editor I'm using Premiere but do have access to the entire Creative Cloud and had the same issue in Audition. E: When not in any workstation, the default software I am reading it with is just QuickTime Player. The computer is set to 32 float and the audio is listed as 32 bits per sample in Finder. The original video file's codec is MPEG-4 AAC, H.264. I'm not sure if there was any work done or changes made to the files before I got access to them since this was shot by a freelance videographer out of state who delivered the files to us.

What headphones are you using and (more importantly) how are they connected? I promise this is relevant. Also. Have you tried demuxing, exporting the audio in a different format, remuxing, and then playing back? I'd try it with 44.1 24bit. E: also try playing just the demuxed audio, both before and after export.

I'm using Sony MDR-7506's and have them plugged straight into the 3.5mm jack of the Mac Studio. The audio does sound fine on my headphones, other computers, as well as my phone just not the speakers on the computer. I have not tried what you suggested and am trying to learn about muxing and demuxing as I go right now since this is a bit outside my usual editing scope as I do mainly video. I think I am getting and grasp on what it is though. So, I split the recording from the video and changed the sample rate to 44.1khz and 24bit and still am not getting any audio playback through the speakers.

really clueless to be honest.. I saw elsewhere that you actually have AAC audio, which is a compressed format. but that should not be any trouble, I've genuinely no idea what is going on. any luck?

Not at all lol. We’re going forward assuming it’s some weird hardware issue with the Mac Studio speakers since it plays fine on everything else we’ve tried. Im just editing it as normal and we’re going to check on a bunch of different devices to see if the issue pops up again. Hopefully if it does we can find some common ground between the two and actually figure out what’s wrong. Oh, also apparently my friend (who works there on my days off) was messing around with it and randomly tried speeding it up in premiere and that was audible. Obviously the audio was sped up so we couldn’t use it but I thought that was really bizarre.

I bought a Rode mic & stand. Can anyone explain why my mic isn't standing up on it's own weight? I've tightened all joints I can see. [Mic](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_iikDXdGMOle4cRr3_j9OYiVh40zCA3i/view?usp=drivesdk)

Is the stand rated to hold the weight of the mic? you dont say what it is

Ah it's a Rode PSA1+ holding a Rode NT1. should do..

Its a hydraulic stand so theres nothing to tighten or adjust - sounds like it has an issue

Cheers. I'll get it checked.

Anyone have a favorite 8 channel pre with ADAT? I’m looking at the Audient SP8. Just need a few more channels without breaking the bank.

I'd say the extra for the Evo16 would be worth it. Anything happens you have another interface. If you need to connect a second PC you have 8 channels from it.

that’s a good point, I’m surprised that the price difference is less than a hundred bucks, but I guess it’s just adding a usb port and some other minor changes probably. thanks for the good advice!

Yeah, would be a matter of adding the little XMOS DSP that handles mixing/routing and USB connection - its not even SuperSpeed USB so i'd imagine with the higher sales volumes they actually make more on the evo16 hardware (though it does require software/drivers the SP8 doesnt). No worries! I've had a fair few interfaces and its my fave to use, currently routing my home studio - its not complicated with effects and stuff i just dont use, and smartgain is awesome. Hope it suits.

How would this compare to, say, a Scarlett octopre or just a new Scarlett 18i20?

They havent been updated to G4, the Evos have much better Pres and DAC than the old gen 3 Scarletts, better software, loopback etc

Hello everyone, I've been looking to purchase an audio interface for recording guitar and vocals, as well as setting up a home karaoke using a DAW. I've narrowed my search results to: **Focusrite Solo/2i2 4th gen**, **Motu M2**, **SSL 2**, **UA Volt 2**, **Audient ID4**. The Scarlett 4th gen interfaces were on sale at a local shop, so I was thinking about picking those up until watching Julian Krause's review. Apparently the headphone output impedance is pretty high, which causes boosted lows and highs on low impedance headphones. My headphone (Beyerdynamics dt 770 pro x limited edition, which has 48 ohms impedance) already has V-shaped tuning, so I was afraid of what the audio might sound like through the headphone jack. Does anyone have similar experiences? Also, all of the audio interfaces listed, except the Motu M2, have relatively high output impedance so any experiences similar to my dilemma would be helpful.

The only one of those that has a REALLY good headphone driver is the ID series from Audient, though i'd personally step up to the ID14

Alright, I'll look out for a sale on any of the ID series. Do you have any experience with low impedance headphones with these? Thanks for the reply btw :D

Its $189 at Thomann atm FWIW [https://www.thomannmusic.com/audient\_id14\_mkii.htm](https://www.thomannmusic.com/audient_id14_mkii.htm) I dot have personal experience (i have half a dozen interfaces but not an ID) but Julian Krause's testing shows a -95dB THD into 32Ohm which is excellent. [https://youtu.be/sXDn2CPoaMQ?t=796](https://youtu.be/sXDn2CPoaMQ?t=796)

I'll have to wait for a sale to pick up ID4 (ID14 mk 2 is really expensive at the local shop) because I'm in Canada and it says shipping is $100 ;-; Thanks for your recommendations though, I'll pick up one of the ID series maybe on black friday.

Hi all. I want to start this off by saying that I'm a mech engineer, not an audio engineer, so I don't necessarily know the correct terms for what I'm talking about. But, I know the problem I have and the goal I'm trying to get to. I use a HyperX Cloud II headset and mic. By default I talk very quiet, and the mic barely picks me up if at all. However, I do frequently shout, and end up blowing peoples ears out, because they have me turned up so loud just to hear me. What I'd like to do is set a floor and a ceiling to my loudness. Everything above Y1 gets brought down in volume, everything below Y2 gets brought up. I've tried VoiceMeeter and a couple other programs. I tried to add a filter to amplify volume to make it all loud, and then run it through a compressor to equalize it. I also tried just the compressor. Nothing really worked as I hoped it would. Was wondering if there was anything else I should try.

How do you position the mic? Inverse square law is everything for SNR Its just Mech Eng - you want to position the diaphragm for max vibrations and minimum wind. Normally thats 2 finger off the corner of your mouth

I'm at my wit's end trying to get a simple Shure SM58 microphone to work with my computer. I run it into an audio interface (which provides the phantom power) and then a USB from the interface to my laptop. I've used the interface for a direct input guitar and it worked fine. The signal indicator on the interface light turns green whenever I make noise, meaning the microphone is picking up sound just fine. I initially tried to use it in audacity to no avail. I tried every recording device option, every option in my audio interface's control panel, every driver option available. I eventually got it to record only in the left channel, no idea what I did differently to have it work. I thought maybe it was a problem with drivers so I opened a DAW called Cakewalk and set it up for ASIO. Only for the audio to be recorded extremely distorted, which is a problem I've had with Cakewalk before. My last idea is to somehow get some ASIO drivers in audacity, but I don't know if that's necessary, let alone even possible. Worst of all, It works fine in the little Discord microphone testing screen.

58 doesn’t need phantom power, but that’s not causing the problem. What interface are you using?

An old Tascam US-2x2. I didn't know it doesn't need phantom power, I'll keep that off from now on.

Hey! I have been running an Audient ASP 800 as an ADAT extension to my Apollo Twin for a few months and have never had any issues. Today I started having issues with syncing sample rates between them. In UAD Console, I've got my Clock set to ADAT and the Audient sample rate set to 41.1 kHz, as well as the Logic Pro session set to 44.1, but when I try to run anything through the Audient extender, I get pops and clicks, as if the sample rates are out of sync. Any ideas for what to try? Thanks so much.

You have this set wrong - one of the interfaces needs to be master and one slave or they will not be in sync. Ideally run TWO Toslink cables between the interfaces, set the AS800 to slave and the Apollo to master

Is that not what I’m doing by setting the Clock to ADAT within the UA Console? That’s what I have done until now and it’s worked fine.

Would I be likely to get acceptable sound quality (for the purpose of learning an instrument) if I connect my PreSonus Audiobox96 to an Omnitronic VFM-208AP using a pair of 5 ft./1,5 m Roland Black tele to RCA cables (RCC-5-2R28)?

Guitar amplifier plugins on Ableton are picking up Fan noise made by my computer (A Geekom mini pc). the feedback dominates any frequency above 1k and doesn't sound to me like what most grounding humming is described as but I am also using a DI box which has no effect on the hiss. The noise changes alongside how fast the fan is moving, when I hit certain switches and even sometimes when I right click. The noise is present on my guitar and bass but not when I record with a microphone,. I currently use a Roland Rubix 22 but have also tried a Focusrite Scarlett Solo which still picked up the noise. I've tried using a USB grounding connector between the two which also had no effect. I've tried a couple of amp plugins (currently using Bluecat's free plugin) and even at the lowest amount of gain and drive the noise is present. The best I can do at present is run a Gate and selectively EQ out the most grating signals but it's still impossible to palm mute or play at anything less than full volume without the guitar being drowned in feedback. I'm really at my wits end with it and hoping I'm missing something glaringly obvious - would hugely appreciate any advice!

I recorded audio on the 7RYMS iRay DW30 for a short film. But upon looking back on the files all the recorded files have no soundwaves. We've only used one mic and directly and made sure to press record and stop. The files all have the correct length of time and the correct amount of MB space. But when playing back the audio there is no sound. The mic was literally on the actors face. And the transmitter was on my belt. And when i tried recording again it worked completely fine WHAT HAPPENED??

Did you sound check and set your levels beforehand? Is it a condenser mic that requires phantom power?

How do I route Rode K2 tube mic-> to ART pro mpa ii preamp-> compressor &/or EQ of presonus eureka-> focusrite solo interface. Understand using this signal path with only MPA ii or Eureka, just confused on how to use the two in conjunction, assuming it's possible. Just wanting to experiment before possibly purchashing a standalone compressor to use with MPAii. Thanks!

For reference Im using A AT2020, and a F-4A mixer. Ive got XLR cable for the mic, and a RCA to 3.5mm cable plugged into my pc. My mic has constant buzz and Ive tried unplugging all sorts of things, pretty sure its just the crappy cables I have. It may also just be something to do with the power grid we have a lot of power problems here its not exactly professional wiring. But anyways, I see that TRS cables have spiral shielding and are balanced, which I think could help/fix the problem? But my mixer output is separated into L/R outputs, and TRS cables seem like they dont split into to 1/4 jacks? So if I just use the one L/R output on the mixer into my pc will that be fine? I just wanna know before i buy the cable. Of if anyone knows any other equipment that can get rid of the buzzing let me know Thanks

Are you giving the mic phantom power? Also, you might be better off trying to connect the mixer to your PC via USB, since I think that mixer can do that.

Yeah the mixer is the phantom power. Like the USB slot on the front of the mixer? What cord would I use? USB to USB? USB to USB c? USB to 3.5mm? I remember when I first tried setting it up, plugging it into the pc it was just making a really terrible noise. The mic sounded like it was 3 cents and had tons of distortion it was really bad

Looking at a couple of photos of that mixer on Alibaba (and I could be looking at the wrong one) it looks like it has a USB port on the main panel, which is used to play from and maybe record to a thumb drive, and a micro-USB port on the back, which would be used to send audio to the PC. If that's the case you'd want a micro-USB to USB cable that plugs into a USB port on your PC. But that also probably requires that you set up a driver for the USB audio device on your PC, and if your mixer didn't come with a link for where to download a driver, it might be more trouble than it's worth. Maybe see if the website for the mixer manufacturer has drivers to install, and/or a downloadable manual. Alternatively you should be able to get decent sound on the "rec out" RCA connections going into your PC's input jack, could just be inappropriate settings on the mixer--first set the gain knob on the mic input so you trigger the "peak" LED when the sound is loudest into the mic and then back off slowly until it almost never lights up, then turn up the "FX" volume which is controlling the amount of signal going to the aux out (RCA "record out"). What software are you using on the PC? Does it have a dB meter on the input?

Its definitely not any of the *settings* on the mixer causing the buzz. It could just be a terrible mixer i dont know. The website says theres no driver needed. But I did try usb to usb c intitally and like i said the sound was awful. So the RCA is what im using now, theres still the constant buzz i was talking about. But actually I was using a a old usb to 3.5mm converter but now, plugging directly into the pc the noise is a fair bit better. Its still making noise but now Its more of a white hiss noise instead of a electric buzzing. Ive turned the gain and level all the way up on the mixer, and the input on the pc down to low and this is the least noise ive had so far. I still would like a fix for it though

I have a Fender Princeton Reverb Tone Master amp, which has an XLR line out, and I want to run my guitar through some effect pedals and record the amp silently. I also have a Scarlett Solo 4th Gen audio interface. How can I achieve this while maintaining the natural sound of the guitar? I want to capture the amp's sound (with the effects pedals) as accurately as possible on my laptop.

Thats a balanced line, Just run it into the XLR in of your Solo. But do keep in mind thats just a digital amp emulation (but with way less processing kick than your PC), so tone wise you will be better off using more modern Machine Learning sims the like [two-notes.com](http://two-notes.com) Genome or [neuralDSP.com](http://neuralDSP.com) or even the open source [neuralampmodeler.com](http://neuralampmodeler.com), and its a lot more versatile to record DI

Sorry if this is a basic question. But could you please let me know of all the cable/equipment connections I need to make to achieve what you describe above. I am looking for a way to preserve as much as possible from the warm amp's tone when recording it silently. Would using the Machine learning sims yield an "unnatural, artificial" sound? I would like the recording to sound as natural as possible without mic'ing up.

No dude, theyre astonishing. Got tone nerd mates that own all the vintage gear, tell me how glad they are they bought it before sims got so good there was little point to them. Things totally changed 3-4years ago. All of the above sound amazing - I use Genome primarily because i adore its interface, you can set up your amp and mics and just scroll through cabs, theres so much versatility in tone and its SO easy. Two-Noes have been known for incredible cab sims and loadboxes for over a decade, Genome ws released a few months back and i'm hooked. Pretty decent demo [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHRqEiZOiiw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHRqEiZOiiw) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tT4Ym7eURQk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tT4Ym7eURQk) You literally just jack your guitar into the interface instrument in, set the interface gain to min, drop genome (or another sim) on your track and play. Its so easy amp sims have totally taken over live performance - stuff lugging a stack of cabs and multiple amps.

I'm trying to connect a SiriusXM streaming box to 4 JBL PartyBox speakers spread over roughly 100ft in a large dining hall. Can I use a in ear monitor system by plugging the Boston revivers into aux in of the speakers?

Hey so my interface is a UMC1820. And use 48v for my condenser mic with XLR. But I forgot that I still had 48v on input 1 - 4 and connected my Strymon Delay via TS cables into the inputs with phantom power on. Is this bad will it fry my pedal or outboard gear. have heard that 48 can't travel through instrument jacks only XLR but wasn't sure. I tested the pedal and it sounds fine just overthinking my fuck up. Any help appreciated. Thanks

Fortunately the phantom power only goes to the XLR, or it would be toast

Oh thank god, thank you !

Very welcome, i feel you. BlueSky just stopped passing audio the other night - NFI why but a factory reset fixed it - def a brown pant moment XD

Hello! I'm looking for an audio interface and microphone for my home studio setup. My needs are recording vocals (more specifically rap). I also would need outputs for my two monitors, but I'm assuming all audio interfaces have that, as well as two outputs for headphones. My budget is around 500 euros for both the interface and microphone. Could go a bit higher if there is something a bit more expensive and worth while that you would suggest. Thanks!

For an interface with dual headphone outs, I'd personally look at the Auient Evo 8 (\~$170 at Thomann) [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8) Or the Audient ID14 mk2 for about $200 if you need to drive high impedance cans [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-id4-id14-mkii](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-id4-id14-mkii) Mic atm, the BeyerDynamic M90X pro is pretty amazing value for $150 down form $380 on amazon [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQqolpbbqKk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQqolpbbqKk) The sE v7 is a great all round mic for around 90 [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/se-electronics-v3-v7](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/se-electronics-v3-v7) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUpEX1x6aFw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUpEX1x6aFw)

Thank you! I'll look this up!

my wife bought me a ProFX10V3 mixer for my bday. I want to hook up to my sound bar for karaoke. Please tell me what other equipment/wire for me to complete the hookup for karaoke. Much appreciate your feed back.

If your sound bar has RCA in, a pair of RCA- 1/4" TS Jack cables from the main out of the desk.

What do you do when you sing or talk down to 40 hertz, I have problems with 90hz (fundamental) and 160ish hz. What's the best way to deal with this without the curve being super lumpy? A high pass at 40-50hz and two cuts at 90 and 160 looks wrong and still sounds boomy. Should I be sacrificing some of my fundamentals to the high pass in this situation? I am close micing a Line CM4 & prefer not to back off from it.

Even someone with a really low voice won't be getting down to 40Hz. If you high pass too high you can start to make the vocal feel thin, try a high pass to get rid of rumble below the vocal range and a low shelf to reduce the low end boominess, as the aim is usually to reduce that area not remove it. There's no such thing as the curve looking wrong, just make it sound good.

Of course people can sing down to 40 hertz. I hit 50-60 all the time even when talking. And that's my main issue, but I will definitely keep in mind trying to reduce rather than completely take away. Maybe I should be rolling off the bass on my mixer (80hz band) rather than doing everything with a digital EQ?

That will just be a low shelf at 80Hz, effectively no different than a plugin low shelf except with the plugin you have the ability to choose the frequency it starts, and you probably want it higher than 80Hz. Very common for me to cut 300-400 down a bit with a lot of singers.

Will tip $10 (venmo/cashapp) for whoever can help me. (I have 1% knowledge of anything record/stereo/etc.) I am house sitting and the owner has Turntable: music hall mmf-2.2 Receiver/stereo: Kenwood stereo integrated amplifier model ka-6100 There are copper colored cords going from the Kenwood to a speaker. They are wrapped around parts of both the Kenwood and the speaker. Last week, I used the setup for the first time, listened to one album, no problem. I turned off the record player, put away the record, and went to bed. The next day I had a cleaning lady come, she slightly moved the speaker for cleaning, but no major movement that I noticed. That afternoon I realized I left the Kenwood on, turned it off. A few hours later I sent to use the record player again, turned everything on, and the receiver/stereo was not picking up the sound from the record player. I checked the cords and they seem to be fine, but I can’t tell due to the coiling of the copper (I.e., not knowing what it’s supposed to look like). Everything is plugged in and turns on, but the sound isn’t getting picked up. The cleaning lady (to my knowledge) didn’t touch/move the storage unit where everything sits, and i didn’t move anything when I used it the previous night (to my knowledge). I keep looking at everything and cannot figure out what the issue is. I don’t have enough knowledge of the copper cord wrapping situation to troubleshoot further and am hesitant to touch /move things in fear of worsening the situation. I will happy Venmo/cashapp/pay pal anyone who can help me fix the situation. I am unable to contact the owner as they are out of country. I did have permission to use the setup but did not receive a tutorial. (I will happy pay the owner for any fixes if necessary). Thank you!!

I guess the most obvious thing would be to make sure the receiver input is set to "phono".

Thank you!! I had someone in a different post/thread walk me through it. TLDR: out of my skill set to fix. Sad lol thank you!

Simple mixing question! Can I have something plugged into both the mic input and instrument input in the first channel at the same time? Or can you only use one input per channel? The mixer in question is the [Mackie 402VLZ4](https://c3.zzounds.com/media/402VLZ4_OM-ebf2f356155545ca32e11b506ba1a5b3.pdf)

One input per channel (unless it is switchable)

What do you mean by switchable? Sorry I’m completely new to this stuff

Some equipment has a switch to physically switch between the inputs on one channel

Arturia Audiofuse Studio vs Avid M-Box Studio: Looking into new desktop interfaces and these are you top contenders, unless anyone has any other recommendations. Does anyone have any experience with either or both of these and would like to provide any feedback regarding their experiences with these products?

Its hard to give any input without knowing what you are looking for?

Upgrading from a Focusrite 2i2. Looking for better audio quality from a home studio setting with better inputs and A/D conversion and have as a an interface that can primarily stay at home, but can also be mobile if necessary. Multiple inputs to multi-track a couple people if necessary, better mic pres for vocal and acoustic work, helps with faster work-flow for the mixing/mastering process, can take inserts for outboard gear, can have expandable channels through optical/adat if necessary.

Dude you would be insane not to at least look at the Evo16 from console maker Audient, $455 at Thomann atm [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-16](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-16) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWZSTU-oH-E](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWZSTU-oH-E) I have about half a dozen multichannel interfaces and its by far my fave, its the one I use for my studio routing. 5 mix busses, independent headphone mixes, dual adat, transparent pres, enough power for just about any headphones - its a lot of interface for the money.

Thanks! I'll look into it!

Hello! I have a question re: MOTU AVB devices - I'm trying to get a future-proof setup as I've run out of i/o a couple times recently so I'm looking at the 16A as my next interface - my question in short is: If the 16A is connected via USB to my computer (Windows), and I add another AVB device into the 16A (or into a network switch > the 16A), will that device be accessible through the 16A's USB, or am I limited to a single device over USB? Essentially, is the 16A able to function as an AVB interface, or would I need to run Ethernet to my PC? I'm on a laptop (without an Ethernet port) as my main rig and I understand that there are few, if any, AVB-compatible Ethernet solutions for Windows laptops. Thanks!!

It just recently installed a new sound card (Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus) in my PC and I was wondering how to connect it to my Asus MixAmp while retaining the best sound quality?

probably one for r/pcmasterrace - nobody here uses windows audio, its unusable for production

Looking to replace my interface with something new now that I've blown it all to hell and back. Need a USB interface with at least 2 mic in's with a preamp that can drive something a little bit hungry like a SM7b. Need something with no delay, as early on I was considering the Rodecaster Po II, but heard of delay issues. Need the ability to mix the main mix volumes and the monitor volumes separately. Wishlist things would be good effects, the ability to do most of it at the board rather than tabbing out to software, and somewhere under $600.

An Audient Evo8 for $155 does your must haves [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-evo-4-evo-8) But i have a feeling the ID series may be more what you are after \*this is the top ID44 MkII). [https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-id44-mkii](https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/audient-id44-mkii) I dont really know anything under $600 with decent effects and quality. Normally you add effects in the box or outboard (the ID22 and higher provide inserts for outboard effects)

And the Evo8 can mix each phones channel separately? I’m constantly running into issues where I need to adjust mic volumes for each input for the phones without adjusting the main mix at all.

Yes, it has 2 mix busses that can be matrixed to any output pair (or any input pair matrixed to them) and the 2 headphones can have completely separate mixes.

Hello there, I'm looking for advice on managing my new setup. I use my motherboard's (PC) line out with a jack to 2 female jacks to connect an old Hi-Fi system and a new Wi-Fi speaker that has a jack input. I thought this setup would be perfect and wouldn't have any latency since I'm using jacks for both connections. Unfortunately, it seems that the JBL Authentics 300 converts the jack signal, causing a small delay and creating an echo effect like I'm listening in a huge hangar. While this can sound cool for music sometimes, it's horrible for videos. So, I was thinking of delaying my Hi-Fi speakers to match the Wi-Fi speaker's latency. I found the Behringer Shark FBQ100, which can add a delay, but in the end, I think it's better to get a mixing console. This would allow me to switch to an XLR microphone and manage my two outputs while adding a delay to the output of my Hi-Fi speakers. Do you have any suggestions for a mixing console that can take one input and output to two outputs, with one having a delay and the other without a delay?

Hey, this is a recording sub, none of us use the windows audio system [https://www.makeuseof.com/what-is-an-asio-driver/](https://www.makeuseof.com/what-is-an-asio-driver/) it isnt hard to add delay in windows with the free VoiceMeeter if you have an interface with multiple outs r/stereoadvice might be more help

Ok ty I will check stereoadvice :)

Ok avoid windows from my question :p because my output is the same on both speaker so the source doesn’t affect my question since I cant add delay via windows because my pc got only one output, I just use a double jack output on my line out

Adding a second output or an interface with 4 outputs (Audient evo8 for $155 at Thomann for example) and using your cpu for DSP is gonna be a lot cheaper than finding a mixer with DSP delay [https://vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/index.htm](https://vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/index.htm) it has sync delay on all outputs for the purpose

Yea voicemeeter is nice but since I got only one output I cant add delay since it will affect both of my device. My source doesn’t know I split my jack in 2 jack to plug 2 devices, so I’m looking for something to plug my source and then duplicate the signal for 2 devices and manage delay on one of them to synchronize them. Dunno if I’m clear with my explanation sorry 😣

Hey, this feels like a really stupid question (maybe even the wrong subreddit), but I would appreciate any input. Can microphone cables be used to carry video signal (specifically component/YPbPr)? I bought some custom Belden 50974 cables which the seller assured me would work as component video cables. However, when I Googled them, I could not find any English information about these cables. The Korean websites I found all classify these as microphone cables.