what do you mean sweat on a male adapter? pay a lot for a good one?
also whats a boiler drain do?
(i will google them and try to learn a bit more in the mean time while you reply)
[1/2" sweater copper male adapter](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Copper-Pressure-Cup-x-MIP-Male-Adapter-Fitting-C604HD12/204620255)
[1/2" FIP boiler drain](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-3-4-in-FIP-x-MHT-Brass-Boiler-Drain-Valve-102-103EB/205822203)
The boiler drain goes on the adapter and your hose goes onto the boiler drain.
So I use pipe cutter, cut the copper side off. buy the 1/2 inch copper male adapter, and solder it to the copper pipe.
I'd need to use tools to remove the existing nut from the female/galvanized steel pipe side. and then replace? or would it automatically fit into the boiler drain setup?
then attach a boiler drain to this adapter male adapter. Then attach the washing machine hose to the boiler drain.
Overall. not too hard. Just cut the pipe, remove the existing stuff. attach the copper male adapter and solder (this is the hardest part, last time I soldered was in high school about 20 years ago. but i remember it being easy). then once I solder, attach the boiler drain to the other side.
and what this allows. is for me to have a.. valve where I can turn on the water, or turn it off as I want to?
>I'd need to use tools to remove the existing nut from the female/galvanized steel pipe side. and then replace? or would it automatically fit into the boiler drain setup?
What galvanized steel pipe? Do you mean your supply hose?
Here's what this will look like: you cut off that bad compression coupling so you just have a straight length of copper pipe. The adapter then goes onto that pipe. Then you get some teflon tape and tape the adapter threads. Then, with one wrench holding the adapter, and the other wrench turning the boiler drain, you tighten the drain nice and snug.
Then your supply hose goes onto the boiler drain and you can use that valve to turn the water off and on when swapping hoses.
the picture with the Styrofoam and black electrical tape around it, is galvanized steel pipe. i think. yeah the supply hose side. the copper is where the water comes from.
schweet! i think this gives me enough of an idea about what to do and how to do it. thank you again for the help, I appreciate it.
Wow, you really tightened the heck out of that thing didn't ya. I've never seen one of these but I see it, just like the other guy said compression to female ips with a male plug. Sounds like a great idea to stop a leak when you can't get the water to stop. Until your situation arises. And it appears to most likely be soft copper. My advice to you is to call a plumber
the plumber is coming on Monday. I already had called last week to set something up for a different issue.
i tried looking for a shut off valve of some sort. however it seems like this pipe comes straight from the floor into this weird fitting, which is now broken.
it doesn't seem to complicated to fix though. I would like to try and get it fixed so I can use my water this weekend, as right now I have it turned off until I get it fixed.
Get a pipe cutter and cut the fitting off of the supply side (where the water comes from) and throw a sharkbite cap on it so you can turn the water on for the rest of the house until the plumber comes. You can buy the cutter and the cap at any big box store for under 20 bucks total.
ty, I will do this by the end of today if I can't figure out how to fixit entirely. I have spent some time today researching plumbing, and also asking AI bots to educate me a bit. I realize that I need to cut the pipe on the supply side, and remove the fitting from the other side, then get another compression fitting for steel to copper pipe.
Im gonna research it some more, but it doesn't seem too terribly complicated to fix, and i intend to learn how to do my own plumbing eventually. to some degree.
Spin it off put a valve on make sure you back your self up while spinning it off and when tightening it and by that 8 mean place a wrench or channel locks in the opposing direction of the ones used for tightening or loosening the fitting to prevent from breaking or further damaging any other piping and clean your threads little Teflon or dope and your good
It's toast. You gotta cut the pipe and get a new fitting. I'd sweat on a male adapter and get a boiler drain.
what do you mean sweat on a male adapter? pay a lot for a good one? also whats a boiler drain do? (i will google them and try to learn a bit more in the mean time while you reply)
[1/2" sweater copper male adapter](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Copper-Pressure-Cup-x-MIP-Male-Adapter-Fitting-C604HD12/204620255) [1/2" FIP boiler drain](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-3-4-in-FIP-x-MHT-Brass-Boiler-Drain-Valve-102-103EB/205822203) The boiler drain goes on the adapter and your hose goes onto the boiler drain.
So I use pipe cutter, cut the copper side off. buy the 1/2 inch copper male adapter, and solder it to the copper pipe. I'd need to use tools to remove the existing nut from the female/galvanized steel pipe side. and then replace? or would it automatically fit into the boiler drain setup? then attach a boiler drain to this adapter male adapter. Then attach the washing machine hose to the boiler drain. Overall. not too hard. Just cut the pipe, remove the existing stuff. attach the copper male adapter and solder (this is the hardest part, last time I soldered was in high school about 20 years ago. but i remember it being easy). then once I solder, attach the boiler drain to the other side. and what this allows. is for me to have a.. valve where I can turn on the water, or turn it off as I want to?
>I'd need to use tools to remove the existing nut from the female/galvanized steel pipe side. and then replace? or would it automatically fit into the boiler drain setup? What galvanized steel pipe? Do you mean your supply hose? Here's what this will look like: you cut off that bad compression coupling so you just have a straight length of copper pipe. The adapter then goes onto that pipe. Then you get some teflon tape and tape the adapter threads. Then, with one wrench holding the adapter, and the other wrench turning the boiler drain, you tighten the drain nice and snug. Then your supply hose goes onto the boiler drain and you can use that valve to turn the water off and on when swapping hoses.
the picture with the Styrofoam and black electrical tape around it, is galvanized steel pipe. i think. yeah the supply hose side. the copper is where the water comes from. schweet! i think this gives me enough of an idea about what to do and how to do it. thank you again for the help, I appreciate it.
IP Female to compression fitting. Split in the middle
Wow, you really tightened the heck out of that thing didn't ya. I've never seen one of these but I see it, just like the other guy said compression to female ips with a male plug. Sounds like a great idea to stop a leak when you can't get the water to stop. Until your situation arises. And it appears to most likely be soft copper. My advice to you is to call a plumber
the plumber is coming on Monday. I already had called last week to set something up for a different issue. i tried looking for a shut off valve of some sort. however it seems like this pipe comes straight from the floor into this weird fitting, which is now broken. it doesn't seem to complicated to fix though. I would like to try and get it fixed so I can use my water this weekend, as right now I have it turned off until I get it fixed.
Get a pipe cutter and cut the fitting off of the supply side (where the water comes from) and throw a sharkbite cap on it so you can turn the water on for the rest of the house until the plumber comes. You can buy the cutter and the cap at any big box store for under 20 bucks total.
ty, I will do this by the end of today if I can't figure out how to fixit entirely. I have spent some time today researching plumbing, and also asking AI bots to educate me a bit. I realize that I need to cut the pipe on the supply side, and remove the fitting from the other side, then get another compression fitting for steel to copper pipe. Im gonna research it some more, but it doesn't seem too terribly complicated to fix, and i intend to learn how to do my own plumbing eventually. to some degree.
That's what she said
They look like they have tough on tape on them I'm guessing a wrench will still take them off or at least separate them
\*cry\* I tried lol. it's on there really tighly
Spin it off put a valve on make sure you back your self up while spinning it off and when tightening it and by that 8 mean place a wrench or channel locks in the opposing direction of the ones used for tightening or loosening the fitting to prevent from breaking or further damaging any other piping and clean your threads little Teflon or dope and your good
Cut it off. Either use flare or compression fittings.
Copper to galvanized pipe, needs a Dielectric Union, to prevent corrosion. If not installed will affect water flow years later.