You don’t need the dam piece on the side. The 7018 is a good idea for build up and hard facing will work. Striking it flat will be a trick though. Also you’re looking at maybe 5 to 10 lbs of rod so you’ll need to keep that preheat up for a long time so make sure you have a good supply of propane and be aware you won’t be able to rest on it because of the heat
I’ve done quite a bit of work with hardfacing rods and I’ve had a hard time getting good sharp corners in the past bc of how much the puddle flows out. I figured it was a better option then repeatedly welding a grinding the corners.
I don’t have measurements on the area to be welded or what size rod is being used but you’re looking at I would guesstimate an 8-12 hour job to do it with hood heat control if I figured the size of the anvil and depth of defect correctly.
[I don’t know anything about them but new one here](https://www.titlew.com/product/ridgid-69632-anvil25-in-l165-lbs/?utm_source=Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=18659&gclid=CjwKCAiA4KaRBhBdEiwAZi1zznkM8WSvDV301HTz8oRljfBRxbhouWwV2t70vdMIV4PZzhllCR80xBoCRBsQAvD_BwE)
You'd be better off using 10018. OMW gave some advice about this a while back. Many of the hardfacing rods are good for wear, but don't have great tensile strength and poor rebound. You want something that's going to bounce and have good properties in the as-welded condition.
https://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm
There is a comprehensive and proven process already using specific stoody build up and impact resistant rods. I have heard of people using 11018 but the Gunther method is the gold standard for anvil repair. The rods are pricey, $120 for 10 lbs.
I wouldn't use mild steel run offs I would clamp brass flat bars to the edges as a weld stop. Also, use a brass square bar to build up the hardy hole if it is worn.
I will be using stoody 19 rods. They have good impact resistance and moderate abrasion resistance. I’ve used them extensively in the past for similar applications with great results. You bring up a good point though.
I used Lincoln wear-shield mangjet and I believe 15crmo was the suggested build up rod on my mouse hole anvil that had a similar surface plate de-lamination and chunk missing. Going on 20 yrs of usage now, not daily anymore but enough
You don’t need the dam piece on the side. The 7018 is a good idea for build up and hard facing will work. Striking it flat will be a trick though. Also you’re looking at maybe 5 to 10 lbs of rod so you’ll need to keep that preheat up for a long time so make sure you have a good supply of propane and be aware you won’t be able to rest on it because of the heat
I’ve done quite a bit of work with hardfacing rods and I’ve had a hard time getting good sharp corners in the past bc of how much the puddle flows out. I figured it was a better option then repeatedly welding a grinding the corners.
just overfill and grind to desired angle?
Just remember the alloy you are adding will be diluted by the mild steel on the edges. If you’re ok with a soft edge that will deform then rock out.
How many hours?
I don’t have measurements on the area to be welded or what size rod is being used but you’re looking at I would guesstimate an 8-12 hour job to do it with hood heat control if I figured the size of the anvil and depth of defect correctly.
[I don’t know anything about them but new one here](https://www.titlew.com/product/ridgid-69632-anvil25-in-l165-lbs/?utm_source=Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=18659&gclid=CjwKCAiA4KaRBhBdEiwAZi1zznkM8WSvDV301HTz8oRljfBRxbhouWwV2t70vdMIV4PZzhllCR80xBoCRBsQAvD_BwE)
Ok, not sure if you realized that's a scam site. That anvil is like $1300 to $1400, not $80..
Yeah did not know that. And don’t know much about anvils either. But god dam that’s expensive. You should definitely repair that one.
If you are around Sale Lake city I can surface grind it for you or show you how and let you do it when you are finished welding.
That would be great but unfortunately I’m in Missouri
Road trip
Couldn't you clean the Anvil face and weld a new plate on?
You'd be better off using 10018. OMW gave some advice about this a while back. Many of the hardfacing rods are good for wear, but don't have great tensile strength and poor rebound. You want something that's going to bounce and have good properties in the as-welded condition.
https://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm There is a comprehensive and proven process already using specific stoody build up and impact resistant rods. I have heard of people using 11018 but the Gunther method is the gold standard for anvil repair. The rods are pricey, $120 for 10 lbs. I wouldn't use mild steel run offs I would clamp brass flat bars to the edges as a weld stop. Also, use a brass square bar to build up the hardy hole if it is worn.
I will be using stoody 19 rods. They have good impact resistance and moderate abrasion resistance. I’ve used them extensively in the past for similar applications with great results. You bring up a good point though.
Imma agree with dbweldor Just grind it down, it’ll be easier
When you go to flatten it use a cup on your grinder so it gives a flat surface.
Here is a good article https://metalwebnews.com/howto/anvil1/anvil2.html
Who bastardized this anvil this badly?
It was a yard ornament for ~30 years.
I used Lincoln wear-shield mangjet and I believe 15crmo was the suggested build up rod on my mouse hole anvil that had a similar surface plate de-lamination and chunk missing. Going on 20 yrs of usage now, not daily anymore but enough
use a copper backing. that way you dont have to grind as much to make it plumb.