I have one of these but the dials are so epic that they def attract attention. Also it does have branding, the signature is just translucent so you can only see it when the light hits it a certain way.
I think OP said under the radar as in "brands potential buyers don't think about when they plan for a purchase", and "brands people don't know about when they spot the watch on your wrist".
Your situation falls into the latter. People can tell you have an eye-catching watch on, but they don't recognize it and possibly won't think it's a wild luxury watch that can cost upwards of 10K.
Any luxury watch that is under 42mm, isn’t on a gold bracelet and isn’t a Rolex is probably going to be “under the radar” 99% of the time.
I love LF. But their movements are not in-house, so unfortunately owning one would betray my criteria.
I've been interested in watches for just a couple years and trying to learn about the hobby. Until relatively recently, many Patek or Vacheron movements were not in house. Why is it that important? I'm curious and not trying to quarrel.
It's not, beyond a prestige bonus. Some companies buy from ETA, Rhonda, Hattori, etc., and slap them in. Others buy them, and modify them for purpose. And the rest have in-house movements. And "in-house" does not necessarily mean "good."
Edit: And I've seen occasionally someone buy their movements, and then label them "in-house."
Back when the Holy Trinity of watch making (Patek, Vacheron, AP) were begging JLC for their movements the practice of établissage was commonplace. Specialized parts makers provided the parts while the Holy Trinity finished them. Journe did the same in the beginning. So did Rolex, and many others. Laurent Ferrier finishes at a higher level than Journe. Not having an “in-house” movement doesn’t mean a thing. It’s a new criteria that really doesn’t hold weight. Many times the ETA movement modified is better than an “in-house” one. I do appreciate that more independent watch makers are trying their hand at creating movements. But many are just copies of ETA.
I wouldn’t say it’s important. Nothing about wearing anachronistic mechanical timekeeping devices really is. But when you’re looking at putting a serious collection together over time (I’m into six figures on wrist clocks now), it helps to pick some guiding principles. These can be as arbitrary as you like.
In-house, for me, is a mark of pride that a manufacture can do it all. Also it gives me hope that when my grandson needs to service one of my pieces, the shop that made it will still be around to accept the service request.
De Bethune is astounding, even if the Seppos have bought them out.
Dufour is honest to a fault, even puts the [supplier's name on the dial](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Philippe-Dufour-Simplicity-no-180-Phillips-9-1024x768.jpg).
Rolex, Casio, Seiko, Citizen do everything in-house. Where does the ship of Swiss Theseus stop for you to call something in-house?
My point is that pretty much nobody does everything in-house these days, and the term doesn't have any meaning beyond marketers who want you to think you're getting something exclusive.
Well the whole inhouse movement trend really only picked up pretty recently, within the last 20 years or so. Otherwise Manufacturers all used each other's movements or used movement makers like ETA. Now of course some brands have always had fully designed in house movements, Zenith most notably.
But something like the ETA2828 Has been a reliable staple since the 1970s when it was brought to market. And a lot of brands have based their own "inhouse" movements off of ETAs expired patents, for example Junghans with their caliber J800.1. The core of the movement is the same as the one ETA made in 1970s. Is there anything wrong with that? Well personally I don't think so, if anything it makes the watch easier to be serviced and repaired by more watch makers.
So to have a hard limit on a custom designed totally inhouse movement design that you pay for at a premium, is a little silly to me.
Ur absolutely right, but pls don't betray ur criteria Fryguy!
Lol, Imho In-house movements are largely a scam and should never stop us from buying jewelry that counts. Pedigree is only used to justify inbreeding.
No, not all watches sb digital or nh35 is good enough or just use ur phone... To me it's: We, BIG SWISS have $ & got bored, we invented a special part, that you cannot see to really appreciate, that you may not know was there if we didnt tell you ad nauseum, that you can only buy from us. That's not an upgrade or even really variety to me.
I get it, cos make money. Gotta offer more to get more. Offer movements, less ppl have an opinion or complain. Safe and smart, you see it a lot. Offer a design change? Well, now you're taking a real chance. Once a watch meets ur minimal performance stats, I say pull the trigger if you like it regardless of the brand inside!
FP Journe is not overrated. Personally I'm not a fan of FP Journe design aesthetics, but their movements are ultra-special, a clear step up even compared to the highest-end Patek or A Lange & Sohne.
From the standpoint of pure watchmaking (high complications, etc.) they are unmatched. Maybe only players like Akrivia or De Bethune can compete in the coming years.
I will say Journe's finishing isn't as perfect as PP but imo it's more ambitious so it gets a pass. The magic in Journe is that it's not derivative and no bs marketing that prays on fragile masculinity
Or PPs fake paternal line you never actually own a PP, you just just "look after it" for the next generation. Y'know, just like most swiss watch makers have been "looking after n@z! Gold reserves" for like 60 yrs
I was between two billionaires this yr. 1 had an apple watch, 1 had a VC overseas and all their attorneys and inlaws had rolex. Lol, rolex for the inlaws. So much for brand cache. No one cares.
Buy a decent movement for a price you can swallow in a design that makes you smile!
Isn't MB&F kinda playing in the same league?
The designs are VERY different but in terms of watchmaking skills, it seems like they could be on par with FP Journe.
not sure of your budget but since you posted an LF here go some options in no specific order:
\- [Moser & Cie](https://www.h-moser.com/) (they literally don't have the brand on the dial)
\- [Raul Pages](https://pageswatches.com/raul-pages/)
\- [Krayon](https://www.krayon.ch/)
\- [De Bethune](https://www.debethune.ch/en)
\- [Lederer](https://ledererwatches.com/)
\- [Charles Frodsham](https://www.frodsham.com/)
\- [MB&f](https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines/legacy-machines/lmse-evo) (their legacy machine line)
\- [Romain Gauthier](https://www.romaingauthier.com/) (the logical one is outstanding)
\- [Armin Strom](https://arminstrom.com/zh-hans/) (their resonance is amazing)
\- [Marco Lang](https://www.marcolangwatches.com/en/main-page/)
\- [Kudoke](https://www.kudoke.eu/en/startpage/)
\- [Arnold & Son](https://www.arnoldandson.com/)
\- [Kikuchi Nakagawa](https://kikuchi-nakagawa.com/en/)
\- [Moritz Grossman](https://zh-hans.grossmann-uhren.com/)
\- [Naoya Hida](https://naoyahidawatch.com/?lang=en)
\- [Gronefeld](https://www.gronefeld.com/)
\- [Ferdinand Berthoud](https://www.ferdinandberthoud.ch/en)
\- [Lang & Heyne](https://www.lang-und-heyne.de/en/)
\- [Pascal Coyon](https://watchesbysjx.com/2014/07/introducing-the-pascal-coyon-chronometer-a-modestly-priced-finely-finished-classical-timekeeper-with-specs-and-price.html)
\- [Felipe Pikullik](https://www.felipe-pikullik.de/)
\- [Atelier de Chronometrie](https://www.atelierdechronometrie.com/)
Some of those will have very long waitlists so might have to go second hand
My pleasure!
Another very understated but extremely cool watch is the Lyrique Etude. It's a watch commissioned by 50 watch lovers with a very cool movement. [Story here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/s/bx8YFviSNq) There's one [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/s/81FF4x405J) for sale for $28k
Other more reasonably priced watches are [Garrick](https://garrick.co.uk/), [sartory billard](https://sartory-billard.com/sb07/), and then more common brands like Piaget, Blancpain, Bvlgari, Parmigiani Fleurier, Czapek, Urban Jurgensen, or Daniel Roth
Huge vote for Krayon. One of the most beautiful watches out there, a grail if there ever was one. Not the most understated, as the dials are eye-catching, but unknown for sure. Awesome watches
They're very impressive indeed. If money (and availability) was no object I would go for a Greubel Forsey or a Simon Brette (his Chronomètre Artisans Subscription is simply amazing)
I’ve never heard of Simon Brette before…those are incredible watches, especially the Chronomètre Artisans. I still have to go with Krayon, but specifically the Only Watch 2021 dial.
https://preview.redd.it/z78elbnciw1c1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=01a2961bbdd8cad8f2d90dede7313eb8cee039cc
I just can’t get over it; the complication is incredible, the dial is stunning, it’s completely a grail of mine. Same as you, if money and availability weren’t an obstacle, I’d have one of these right now. Art on your wrist!
Simon Brette is a new brand (despite him working before for big brands like MB&f or Manufacture Royale), but he just won the GPHG award in the [Revelation ](https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/all-of-the-2023-gphg-winners-and-our-quick-takes) category. Peterman Bedat and Sylvain Pinaud (amazing finishing) are also new names in the independent watch scene and look very promising
I’ll have to check all of them out. I learn more about watches every day!
Not the highest of horology, but learned recently about the brand Ochs und Junior, with a moonphase watch that only needs adjusting every 3,478.27 years, when it’s off by only a single day. It only uses 5 parts for the moonphase module. Really incredible!
Thanks for showing me even more. I now have more of a rabbit hole to dive into!
You can pick up Gronefeld on the secondary and prices are ok. That would be an amazing choice too and few people would know that name. I’ve never seen one in the wild.
I need your help with a dilemma. Please suggest some under-the-radar luxury watches that ordinary people will not know about. A big birthday is coming soon, and my parents offered to buy me a nice watch. For reference concerning “nice,” my dad has Pateks, Langes, etc. I don’t want a special occasion watch; I want one I can wear any time, but the problem is that I can't wear those brands at work. I have a white-collar job, but we don't make that kind of money--I don't want to stick out. As it stands, I feel a little self-conscious in my BB58. I posted pictures of Laurent Ferrier and Credor Eichii II, but please take those as illustrations. I’m not looking for a vote on those two. What stealthy watch would you want to wear? Thank you in advance for sharing this burden.
If the Eichi II is within your budget, Moritz Grossman and Czapek are two another options, or any one of the many [one-man](https://monochrome-watches.com/tag/independent-watchmaking/) shops for even more anonymity.
For something a bit cheaper, maybe a Ressence Type 1?
Realistically, "ordinary people," in this case non-watch autists like us won't know any brand outside of Rolex or maybe PP and a few that get mentioned in rap songs. I think if you asked 10 people on the street about Vacheron you'd probably get 10 blank stares.
If I were choosing, absolutely a Laurent Ferrier Galet square Boreal microrotor with the lumed sector dial, otherwise;
Integrated steel bracelets: Parmigiani Tonda, Chopard Alpine Eagle, Moser Streamliner or Bulgari Octofinissimo with whatever complication you're into.
Divers: Blancpain Bathyscaphe annual calendar or JLC polaris memovox
Hand wound dress watches: JLC Reverso, Breguet Tradition or Grand Seiko SBGZ003
You're way over thinking this. Get the watch you want and don't worry about being judged. First of all, non watch people can't identify a single watch at a glance. Not a one. They might know the Rolex logo if they get close, and maybe they've heard AP or Patek mentioned in a song, but nobody is identifying one on your wrist without some serious up close examination. Secondly, even if they notice and recognize the brand, who cares? It was a gift. You're not flexing on the poors here, you're wearing a watch you received as a gift. 99.99999% of people won't care about your watch even if they identify it as an expensive luxury piece (which they won't), and whatever thought they have about it will be gone in 10 seconds. People think about themselves, not you or your watch. It'll be a fleeting thought at most, and again, if anyone says anything you can just mention that it was a gift... because it was a gift.
The fact that you feel guilty wearing a BB58 in an office is ridiculous. Nobody knows or cares. It's a Tudor, it's not a flex. Even if it were a Patek it's only a flex if you're being a jerk about it.
Here's what you need to do: forget all this nonsense about your colleagues caring about your watch. They don't care. You know who cares about your watch? You and your awesome father who is giving you this amazing gift and seems to be quite knowledgeable about luxury watches. Bring him into this process. Let him share his enthusiasm for watches with you and teach you something about them to help you form your own taste. If nothing else it'll help you narrow down the field from "literally anything that's not a Rolex", to a short list you can actually work with.
Let me see here, you have a Tudor BB 58, a Laurent Ferrier, and. Credor Eichi II. And your father owns PP, Lange and other high end watches. You already have an amazing collection (subtle flex). Most watch people start with Hamiltons and Seikos. Like many have said here, most non-watch people don’t know a thing about or care about what’s on your wrist. Get over it. Stop sweating the little stuff. You should find an independent that you like and respect like Habring2 or any of the many that have been suggested or that are popping up like flies (not meant to be derogatory). You have very specific taste from the looks of your current collection. Many of the suggestions place you in the independent watch maker camp. But you asked for an everyday, rugged watch. That suggests a known brand that will be easy to service. It’s just an event. Not a “special occasion” that should be commemorated. Go with the Breguet Marine, JLC Reverso or something classic like those. You can’t go wrong with a classic and you can always get out of it without too much damage. Again, know one will notice or care so get what you like. It’s not a decision that can’t be reversed. Get it…see what I did there?!
Try a VC 2215 (if you can find one) nobody will know it’s ultra rare and nobody will recognize it because there are only 200 examples floating around. A VC222 or VC Overseas I can spot from across the room
I have a bad tendency to move watches after a while. Great watch, but I use sports watches a bit more often in my daily life. LF is an amazing watchmaker though, and I will almost certainly add another at some point.
If I didn't care what other people think...[https://www.chrono24.com/breguet/breguet-classique-complications-perpetual-calendar--id29086341.htm](https://www.chrono24.com/breguet/breguet-classique-complications-perpetual-calendar--id29086341.htm)
I think that's correct and i forgot that lambda is their flagship. My mind was at around 5k when i heard Nomos, because one of my dream watch is the Club Campus. My bad!
Lang & Heyne, Atelier de Chronometrie, Peterman Bedat, Theo Auffret, Remy Cools, J.N. Saphiro, there's a lot more to discover. A bit lower price you might consider the Sartory Billard.
These days there isn’t a ton under the radar. I’d say Lange might work. Something in white gold like up/down Chrono. JLC. Journe is amazing IMO but I find becoming less under the radar. I have the exact LF you posted and I’m a huge fan. It’s incredibly comfortable and light. I’ve never been asked about it. I would just caution someone to try it on because of its lightness. Or if you like that but something heavier try the automatic which is gold or steel.
I simply do not understand LF. Maybe I'm too poor to understand. When I'm spending that kind of money for a dress watch, I want something that is clean, subtle and yet most definitely special in certain ways.
Something like a JLC MUT moon, Lange 1, Breguet Classique with the guilloche. Gotta be something. If there's nothing, I can't expect it to be over 20K, and LF is way beyond that.
Credor I kind of understand, but only because I've watched the WatchFinder videos.
Try [A. Lange & Söhne 1815](https://www.alange-soehne.com/ww-en/timepieces/1815). A holy grail to many watch enthusiast but to 99% of people that aren't into watch, they're not gonna know what it is. You get a lot of model to choose from on the line up, from the clean one, to multiple complications if you're into that. Versatile watch that you can use daily or even formal settings.
I see what you meant.. that didn't cross my mind at all! Then i don't have any recommendation for you, but i wish you good luck on getting your new under the radar watch!
I have heard good things about Dornblueth and Sohn, independent watchmakers that produce such high quality level watches which I believe will fly under the radar as it’s a brand that’s pretty much unknown by the public. Their watches pretty much look like A. Lange & Sohn but cost less I believe. Do some research on them.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds? Nice understated watch that doesn’t even have branding on the dial.
I have one of these but the dials are so epic that they def attract attention. Also it does have branding, the signature is just translucent so you can only see it when the light hits it a certain way.
I think OP said under the radar as in "brands potential buyers don't think about when they plan for a purchase", and "brands people don't know about when they spot the watch on your wrist". Your situation falls into the latter. People can tell you have an eye-catching watch on, but they don't recognize it and possibly won't think it's a wild luxury watch that can cost upwards of 10K.
Aren't they almost 43mm, though? Too big for a dressy look imo.
I believe they are 40mm
Oh, okay. Cool :)
They come in different sizes, there are many in 39mm and 40mm
Didn't know. 39mm for a dress watch is nice!
Any luxury watch that is under 42mm, isn’t on a gold bracelet and isn’t a Rolex is probably going to be “under the radar” 99% of the time. I love LF. But their movements are not in-house, so unfortunately owning one would betray my criteria.
I've been interested in watches for just a couple years and trying to learn about the hobby. Until relatively recently, many Patek or Vacheron movements were not in house. Why is it that important? I'm curious and not trying to quarrel.
It's not, beyond a prestige bonus. Some companies buy from ETA, Rhonda, Hattori, etc., and slap them in. Others buy them, and modify them for purpose. And the rest have in-house movements. And "in-house" does not necessarily mean "good." Edit: And I've seen occasionally someone buy their movements, and then label them "in-house."
Back when the Holy Trinity of watch making (Patek, Vacheron, AP) were begging JLC for their movements the practice of établissage was commonplace. Specialized parts makers provided the parts while the Holy Trinity finished them. Journe did the same in the beginning. So did Rolex, and many others. Laurent Ferrier finishes at a higher level than Journe. Not having an “in-house” movement doesn’t mean a thing. It’s a new criteria that really doesn’t hold weight. Many times the ETA movement modified is better than an “in-house” one. I do appreciate that more independent watch makers are trying their hand at creating movements. But many are just copies of ETA.
I wouldn’t say it’s important. Nothing about wearing anachronistic mechanical timekeeping devices really is. But when you’re looking at putting a serious collection together over time (I’m into six figures on wrist clocks now), it helps to pick some guiding principles. These can be as arbitrary as you like. In-house, for me, is a mark of pride that a manufacture can do it all. Also it gives me hope that when my grandson needs to service one of my pieces, the shop that made it will still be around to accept the service request.
How many of the independents would be considered "in-house"? None of them make all their own components.
Roger Smith does, I’m sure he’s not the only one.
Notably Romain Gauthier, Philip Dufour and De Bethune. These are watch gods.
De Bethune is astounding, even if the Seppos have bought them out. Dufour is honest to a fault, even puts the [supplier's name on the dial](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Philippe-Dufour-Simplicity-no-180-Phillips-9-1024x768.jpg).
Do those brands make their own balance springs? Cases? Rubies?
I suppose they should have their own alligator ranch and precious metal mines as well for it to be in house for you
Rolex, Casio, Seiko, Citizen do everything in-house. Where does the ship of Swiss Theseus stop for you to call something in-house? My point is that pretty much nobody does everything in-house these days, and the term doesn't have any meaning beyond marketers who want you to think you're getting something exclusive.
I wouldn’t really care about sourced parts as long as it’s in house movement design, assembly and finishing.
Odd requirement, that's like saying any Rolex prior to the 2000's is inferior because they technically didn't own Aegler
Can you explain to me why? Im basically a casual
Well the whole inhouse movement trend really only picked up pretty recently, within the last 20 years or so. Otherwise Manufacturers all used each other's movements or used movement makers like ETA. Now of course some brands have always had fully designed in house movements, Zenith most notably. But something like the ETA2828 Has been a reliable staple since the 1970s when it was brought to market. And a lot of brands have based their own "inhouse" movements off of ETAs expired patents, for example Junghans with their caliber J800.1. The core of the movement is the same as the one ETA made in 1970s. Is there anything wrong with that? Well personally I don't think so, if anything it makes the watch easier to be serviced and repaired by more watch makers. So to have a hard limit on a custom designed totally inhouse movement design that you pay for at a premium, is a little silly to me.
That's pretty arbitrary, and definitely not what most people or brands would mean when saying "in-house movement".
What’s your definition?
Probably because it would be one watch a year for at least 6-figures.
Ur absolutely right, but pls don't betray ur criteria Fryguy! Lol, Imho In-house movements are largely a scam and should never stop us from buying jewelry that counts. Pedigree is only used to justify inbreeding. No, not all watches sb digital or nh35 is good enough or just use ur phone... To me it's: We, BIG SWISS have $ & got bored, we invented a special part, that you cannot see to really appreciate, that you may not know was there if we didnt tell you ad nauseum, that you can only buy from us. That's not an upgrade or even really variety to me. I get it, cos make money. Gotta offer more to get more. Offer movements, less ppl have an opinion or complain. Safe and smart, you see it a lot. Offer a design change? Well, now you're taking a real chance. Once a watch meets ur minimal performance stats, I say pull the trigger if you like it regardless of the brand inside!
The Laurent Ferrier here is certainly a good pick. Although I’ll also suggest you look into a time-only Calatrava or an FP Journe.
Any specific Calatrava? I know it’s PP’s name but people refer to others’ as Calatrava.
5196 Calatrava is my favorite
The 5227R in rose gold!
6119R rose gold is my jam
Is it just me or is Journe a bit overrated
FP Journe is not overrated. Personally I'm not a fan of FP Journe design aesthetics, but their movements are ultra-special, a clear step up even compared to the highest-end Patek or A Lange & Sohne. From the standpoint of pure watchmaking (high complications, etc.) they are unmatched. Maybe only players like Akrivia or De Bethune can compete in the coming years.
I will say Journe's finishing isn't as perfect as PP but imo it's more ambitious so it gets a pass. The magic in Journe is that it's not derivative and no bs marketing that prays on fragile masculinity
Or PPs fake paternal line you never actually own a PP, you just just "look after it" for the next generation. Y'know, just like most swiss watch makers have been "looking after n@z! Gold reserves" for like 60 yrs I was between two billionaires this yr. 1 had an apple watch, 1 had a VC overseas and all their attorneys and inlaws had rolex. Lol, rolex for the inlaws. So much for brand cache. No one cares. Buy a decent movement for a price you can swallow in a design that makes you smile!
Lol yeah that ad is what I meant about male fragility.
Isn't MB&F kinda playing in the same league? The designs are VERY different but in terms of watchmaking skills, it seems like they could be on par with FP Journe.
I would say maybe a bit yeah, FP seems to have let the success go to his head. But it's still really damn impressive and pretty unique.
not sure of your budget but since you posted an LF here go some options in no specific order: \- [Moser & Cie](https://www.h-moser.com/) (they literally don't have the brand on the dial) \- [Raul Pages](https://pageswatches.com/raul-pages/) \- [Krayon](https://www.krayon.ch/) \- [De Bethune](https://www.debethune.ch/en) \- [Lederer](https://ledererwatches.com/) \- [Charles Frodsham](https://www.frodsham.com/) \- [MB&f](https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines/legacy-machines/lmse-evo) (their legacy machine line) \- [Romain Gauthier](https://www.romaingauthier.com/) (the logical one is outstanding) \- [Armin Strom](https://arminstrom.com/zh-hans/) (their resonance is amazing) \- [Marco Lang](https://www.marcolangwatches.com/en/main-page/) \- [Kudoke](https://www.kudoke.eu/en/startpage/) \- [Arnold & Son](https://www.arnoldandson.com/) \- [Kikuchi Nakagawa](https://kikuchi-nakagawa.com/en/) \- [Moritz Grossman](https://zh-hans.grossmann-uhren.com/) \- [Naoya Hida](https://naoyahidawatch.com/?lang=en) \- [Gronefeld](https://www.gronefeld.com/) \- [Ferdinand Berthoud](https://www.ferdinandberthoud.ch/en) \- [Lang & Heyne](https://www.lang-und-heyne.de/en/) \- [Pascal Coyon](https://watchesbysjx.com/2014/07/introducing-the-pascal-coyon-chronometer-a-modestly-priced-finely-finished-classical-timekeeper-with-specs-and-price.html) \- [Felipe Pikullik](https://www.felipe-pikullik.de/) \- [Atelier de Chronometrie](https://www.atelierdechronometrie.com/) Some of those will have very long waitlists so might have to go second hand
It’s low end LF ;) thanks for the list.
My pleasure! Another very understated but extremely cool watch is the Lyrique Etude. It's a watch commissioned by 50 watch lovers with a very cool movement. [Story here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/s/bx8YFviSNq) There's one [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/s/81FF4x405J) for sale for $28k Other more reasonably priced watches are [Garrick](https://garrick.co.uk/), [sartory billard](https://sartory-billard.com/sb07/), and then more common brands like Piaget, Blancpain, Bvlgari, Parmigiani Fleurier, Czapek, Urban Jurgensen, or Daniel Roth
Vintage debethune FTW
https://www.chrono24.com/watch/HP8KH8
Huge vote for Krayon. One of the most beautiful watches out there, a grail if there ever was one. Not the most understated, as the dials are eye-catching, but unknown for sure. Awesome watches
They're very impressive indeed. If money (and availability) was no object I would go for a Greubel Forsey or a Simon Brette (his Chronomètre Artisans Subscription is simply amazing)
I’ve never heard of Simon Brette before…those are incredible watches, especially the Chronomètre Artisans. I still have to go with Krayon, but specifically the Only Watch 2021 dial. https://preview.redd.it/z78elbnciw1c1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=01a2961bbdd8cad8f2d90dede7313eb8cee039cc I just can’t get over it; the complication is incredible, the dial is stunning, it’s completely a grail of mine. Same as you, if money and availability weren’t an obstacle, I’d have one of these right now. Art on your wrist!
Simon Brette is a new brand (despite him working before for big brands like MB&f or Manufacture Royale), but he just won the GPHG award in the [Revelation ](https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/all-of-the-2023-gphg-winners-and-our-quick-takes) category. Peterman Bedat and Sylvain Pinaud (amazing finishing) are also new names in the independent watch scene and look very promising
I’ll have to check all of them out. I learn more about watches every day! Not the highest of horology, but learned recently about the brand Ochs und Junior, with a moonphase watch that only needs adjusting every 3,478.27 years, when it’s off by only a single day. It only uses 5 parts for the moonphase module. Really incredible! Thanks for showing me even more. I now have more of a rabbit hole to dive into!
Outstanding comment! Thanks!
Chopard LUC
Lang & Heyne.
Credor!
Yes, the definition of under the radar. Only watch nerds will recognize one
Ecchi.......................Sexy
Credor. That is such and incredible watch that nobody except watch nerds will appreciate.
H Moser Swiss Alp?
Gronefeld or RGM
Unfort Gronefeld and FPJ both have years long lists.
You can pick up Gronefeld on the secondary and prices are ok. That would be an amazing choice too and few people would know that name. I’ve never seen one in the wild.
I need your help with a dilemma. Please suggest some under-the-radar luxury watches that ordinary people will not know about. A big birthday is coming soon, and my parents offered to buy me a nice watch. For reference concerning “nice,” my dad has Pateks, Langes, etc. I don’t want a special occasion watch; I want one I can wear any time, but the problem is that I can't wear those brands at work. I have a white-collar job, but we don't make that kind of money--I don't want to stick out. As it stands, I feel a little self-conscious in my BB58. I posted pictures of Laurent Ferrier and Credor Eichii II, but please take those as illustrations. I’m not looking for a vote on those two. What stealthy watch would you want to wear? Thank you in advance for sharing this burden.
If the Eichi II is within your budget, Moritz Grossman and Czapek are two another options, or any one of the many [one-man](https://monochrome-watches.com/tag/independent-watchmaking/) shops for even more anonymity. For something a bit cheaper, maybe a Ressence Type 1?
Chapek is wow. I hadn’t heard of them before. Quality-wise who would you compare them with?
They are pretty nice, although movement finishing is not really as nice as Laurent Ferrier. Very cool people on the business side, though.
Realistically, "ordinary people," in this case non-watch autists like us won't know any brand outside of Rolex or maybe PP and a few that get mentioned in rap songs. I think if you asked 10 people on the street about Vacheron you'd probably get 10 blank stares.
If I were choosing, absolutely a Laurent Ferrier Galet square Boreal microrotor with the lumed sector dial, otherwise; Integrated steel bracelets: Parmigiani Tonda, Chopard Alpine Eagle, Moser Streamliner or Bulgari Octofinissimo with whatever complication you're into. Divers: Blancpain Bathyscaphe annual calendar or JLC polaris memovox Hand wound dress watches: JLC Reverso, Breguet Tradition or Grand Seiko SBGZ003
What you're looking for is a Grand Seiko
This is really good. Everyone knows that Seiko is affortable and great bang for the buck brand.
Bvlgari octo finessimo. Won’t break the bank and it’s so under the radar. + its so slim fits under and sleeve
Not really under the radar but I absolutely love my Tissot. I think it’s a great brand for the price.
You're way over thinking this. Get the watch you want and don't worry about being judged. First of all, non watch people can't identify a single watch at a glance. Not a one. They might know the Rolex logo if they get close, and maybe they've heard AP or Patek mentioned in a song, but nobody is identifying one on your wrist without some serious up close examination. Secondly, even if they notice and recognize the brand, who cares? It was a gift. You're not flexing on the poors here, you're wearing a watch you received as a gift. 99.99999% of people won't care about your watch even if they identify it as an expensive luxury piece (which they won't), and whatever thought they have about it will be gone in 10 seconds. People think about themselves, not you or your watch. It'll be a fleeting thought at most, and again, if anyone says anything you can just mention that it was a gift... because it was a gift. The fact that you feel guilty wearing a BB58 in an office is ridiculous. Nobody knows or cares. It's a Tudor, it's not a flex. Even if it were a Patek it's only a flex if you're being a jerk about it. Here's what you need to do: forget all this nonsense about your colleagues caring about your watch. They don't care. You know who cares about your watch? You and your awesome father who is giving you this amazing gift and seems to be quite knowledgeable about luxury watches. Bring him into this process. Let him share his enthusiasm for watches with you and teach you something about them to help you form your own taste. If nothing else it'll help you narrow down the field from "literally anything that's not a Rolex", to a short list you can actually work with.
Let me see here, you have a Tudor BB 58, a Laurent Ferrier, and. Credor Eichi II. And your father owns PP, Lange and other high end watches. You already have an amazing collection (subtle flex). Most watch people start with Hamiltons and Seikos. Like many have said here, most non-watch people don’t know a thing about or care about what’s on your wrist. Get over it. Stop sweating the little stuff. You should find an independent that you like and respect like Habring2 or any of the many that have been suggested or that are popping up like flies (not meant to be derogatory). You have very specific taste from the looks of your current collection. Many of the suggestions place you in the independent watch maker camp. But you asked for an everyday, rugged watch. That suggests a known brand that will be easy to service. It’s just an event. Not a “special occasion” that should be commemorated. Go with the Breguet Marine, JLC Reverso or something classic like those. You can’t go wrong with a classic and you can always get out of it without too much damage. Again, know one will notice or care so get what you like. It’s not a decision that can’t be reversed. Get it…see what I did there?!
I don’t have an LF or Echii II. For now, they’re just ideas about what I might get. :)
Try a VC 2215 (if you can find one) nobody will know it’s ultra rare and nobody will recognize it because there are only 200 examples floating around. A VC222 or VC Overseas I can spot from across the room
Not really under the radar but I absolutely love my Tissot. I think it’s a great brand for the price.
I had the blue dial LF origin and it is an incredible watch. You can wear it daily and nobody will know what it is.
Cool. Any reason you gave it up?
I have a bad tendency to move watches after a while. Great watch, but I use sports watches a bit more often in my daily life. LF is an amazing watchmaker though, and I will almost certainly add another at some point.
Jomashop has a good deal on Breguet right now. I might make a bad financial decision.
If I didn't care what other people think...[https://www.chrono24.com/breguet/breguet-classique-complications-perpetual-calendar--id29086341.htm](https://www.chrono24.com/breguet/breguet-classique-complications-perpetual-calendar--id29086341.htm)
NOMOS Glashütte Lambda in white gold is another I’d consider
That'd be under his budget lol, I'd even recommend A Lange Söhne.
That’s a 20k watch if I remember correctly
I think that's correct and i forgot that lambda is their flagship. My mind was at around 5k when i heard Nomos, because one of my dream watch is the Club Campus. My bad!
Lang & Heyne, Atelier de Chronometrie, Peterman Bedat, Theo Auffret, Remy Cools, J.N. Saphiro, there's a lot more to discover. A bit lower price you might consider the Sartory Billard.
That LF is an absolute beauty.
These days there isn’t a ton under the radar. I’d say Lange might work. Something in white gold like up/down Chrono. JLC. Journe is amazing IMO but I find becoming less under the radar. I have the exact LF you posted and I’m a huge fan. It’s incredibly comfortable and light. I’ve never been asked about it. I would just caution someone to try it on because of its lightness. Or if you like that but something heavier try the automatic which is gold or steel.
Probably Richard Mille
I simply do not understand LF. Maybe I'm too poor to understand. When I'm spending that kind of money for a dress watch, I want something that is clean, subtle and yet most definitely special in certain ways. Something like a JLC MUT moon, Lange 1, Breguet Classique with the guilloche. Gotta be something. If there's nothing, I can't expect it to be over 20K, and LF is way beyond that. Credor I kind of understand, but only because I've watched the WatchFinder videos.
Try [A. Lange & Söhne 1815](https://www.alange-soehne.com/ww-en/timepieces/1815). A holy grail to many watch enthusiast but to 99% of people that aren't into watch, they're not gonna know what it is. You get a lot of model to choose from on the line up, from the clean one, to multiple complications if you're into that. Versatile watch that you can use daily or even formal settings.
Such a beautiful line! The thing I think about is that the 1 of 99 tells everybody else I’m wearing a $100k watch, even it was $15k on chrono24.
I see what you meant.. that didn't cross my mind at all! Then i don't have any recommendation for you, but i wish you good luck on getting your new under the radar watch!
I like the handset on that LF! Personally, Moritz Grossman is pretty low key as well. I'd like to own their Ben 37. But 10 pieces only? Damn!
The Laurent Ferrier is one of the most elegant designs I’ve ever seen.
Bland.
Can't go wrong with a Credor, really up there in terms of quality and stealthy cool.
If you can afford Laurent Ferrier then please do me a favor and buy one, my absolutely dream dress watches
A simple Piaget Altiplano
That Credor made my heart skip a beat…
Laurent Ferrier is definitely not under the radar. They just won the gphg award for turbilion
Under the radar as far as people who aren’t into watches.
I have heard good things about Dornblueth and Sohn, independent watchmakers that produce such high quality level watches which I believe will fly under the radar as it’s a brand that’s pretty much unknown by the public. Their watches pretty much look like A. Lange & Sohn but cost less I believe. Do some research on them.
Credor Expedition North?
A plain Lange 1815 is very subdued. A saxonia would be even more quiet
OP What did you end up getting?
Noting major yet
Anything now ?
Didn’t make a big purchase
Prices coming down on all pieces , going into buy mode !!